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History of the Union Hotel Phoenix of Benicia History of the Union Hotel * Lidia Woytak Days of our lives were passing by as quickly as the waves that would barely touch the beaches of the Monterey Peninsula before receding into the ocean forever. Focusing on raising our four children neither I nor my husband, Richard, noCced that passing days turned into weeks, weeks into months, months into years. All that passed Cme stretched into a paEerned ribbon of household chores, grocery shopping, driving to school, and aEending various funcCons. Our efforts to help our children grow and appreciate all the intricacies of this world made the passage of Cme only accidentally noCceable to me and my husband, Richard. As high school graduaCon deadlines appeared on our 2000 calendar, our children, Lily and John, started searching for a college that would suit their interests. They searched for colleges in California and beyond. Finally California MariCme Academy of Vallejo sparked their interest and they decided to aEend an Open House of the Academy. Thus on a sunny Spring Saturday we found ourselves in our sweaty navy blue 1980 Isuzu Trooper Two driving to Vallejo. While approaching Vallejo, we noCced on Highway 780 a sign that read, “Benicia State Capital of California”. Intrigued, we took a downtown exit. We parked our car and walked down the First Street towards the bay. As we walked, my husband, Richard, who taught California history at a local college, shared with us some interesCng anecdotes about births of small towns in California. For years Richard shared his knowledge of American, including California, as well as European history, not only with his family but also with hundreds of his students. They all loved his classes because he was able to turn history, typically viewed by many as a boring subject saturated with dates, into a personal experience for each one of them. One of his students remarked to me, “I used to hate taking history classes but being in Richard’s class gave me a totally different feeling. He turned history into a chain of related stories, full of exciCng characters, and of conflicCng forces. Most important he kept us engaged in of the events of the past and their impact.” His California History Classes that he taught for years in local junior colleges, in parCcular, was an expression of his love for California’s nature, her people, and her past. As we drove down the First Street of Benicia, we felt transcending into the 19 th century. We found ourselves amidst several 19 th century buildings and anCc shops, bouCques, and repair shops. I glimpsed with curiosity at an old white wooden church, an old temple, and an impressive building with columns in front of it. The trees planted on spacious sidewalks of the First Street gave me a feeling of being back in an old European town. As we drove two blocks down towards the bay, we came across a wooden white three-story building at the intersecCon of First and D Streets. There was a dark green canopy at the entrance to the building. A sign over it read, The Union Hotel. @ 2017, Lidia Woytak Page 1

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Page 1: History of the Union Hotel · History of the Union Hotel We have noCced beauCful stained glass windows on both sides of the entry. On one of them there was a sign that read, “Union

HistoryoftheUnionHotel

PhoenixofBenicia

HistoryoftheUnionHotel*

LidiaWoytak

DaysofourliveswerepassingbyasquicklyasthewavesthatwouldbarelytouchthebeachesoftheMontereyPeninsulabeforerecedingintotheoceanforever.FocusingonraisingourfourchildrenneitherInormyhusband,Richard,noCcedthatpassingdaysturnedintoweeks,weeksintomonths,monthsintoyears.AllthatpassedCmestretchedintoapaEernedribbonofhouseholdchores,groceryshopping,drivingtoschool,andaEendingvariousfuncCons.OureffortstohelpourchildrengrowandappreciatealltheintricaciesofthisworldmadethepassageofCmeonlyaccidentallynoCceabletomeandmyhusband,Richard.

AshighschoolgraduaCondeadlinesappearedonour2000calendar,ourchildren,LilyandJohn,startedsearchingforacollegethatwouldsuittheirinterests.TheysearchedforcollegesinCaliforniaandbeyond.FinallyCaliforniaMariCmeAcademyofVallejosparkedtheirinterestandtheydecidedtoaEendanOpenHouseoftheAcademy.ThusonasunnySpringSaturdaywefoundourselvesinoursweatynavyblue1980IsuzuTrooperTwodrivingtoVallejo.

WhileapproachingVallejo,wenoCcedonHighway780asignthatread,“BeniciaStateCapitalofCalifornia”.Intrigued,wetookadowntownexit.WeparkedourcarandwalkeddowntheFirstStreettowardsthebay.Aswewalked,myhusband,Richard,whotaughtCaliforniahistoryatalocalcollege,sharedwithussomeinteresCnganecdotesaboutbirthsofsmalltownsinCalifornia.

ForyearsRichardsharedhisknowledgeofAmerican,includingCalifornia,aswellasEuropeanhistory,notonlywithhisfamilybutalsowithhundredsofhisstudents.Theyalllovedhisclassesbecausehewasabletoturnhistory,typicallyviewedbymanyasaboringsubjectsaturatedwithdates,intoapersonalexperienceforeachoneofthem.Oneofhisstudentsremarkedtome,“IusedtohatetakinghistoryclassesbutbeinginRichard’sclassgavemeatotallydifferentfeeling.Heturnedhistoryintoachainofrelatedstories,fullofexciCngcharacters,andofconflicCngforces.Mostimportanthekeptusengagedinoftheeventsofthepastandtheirimpact.”HisCaliforniaHistoryClassesthathetaughtforyearsinlocaljuniorcolleges,inparCcular,wasanexpressionofhisloveforCalifornia’snature,herpeople,andherpast.

AswedrovedowntheFirstStreetofBenicia,wefelttranscendingintothe19thcentury.Wefoundourselvesamidstseveral19thcenturybuildingsandanCcshops,bouCques,andrepairshops.Iglimpsedwithcuriosityatanoldwhitewoodenchurch,anoldtemple,andanimpressivebuildingwithcolumnsinfrontofit.ThetreesplantedonspacioussidewalksoftheFirstStreetgavemeafeelingofbeingbackinanoldEuropeantown.

Aswedrovetwoblocksdowntowardsthebay,wecameacrossawoodenwhitethree-storybuildingattheintersecConofFirstandDStreets.Therewasadarkgreencanopyattheentrancetothebuilding.Asignoveritread,TheUnionHotel.

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HistoryoftheUnionHotel

WehavenoCcedbeauCfulstainedglasswindowsonbothsidesoftheentry.Ononeofthemtherewasasignthatread,“UnionforEver”.Throughahalfopendoorwecouldseeourimagesinafancygildedgoldmirrorsetagainstadarkbackgroundofapaintedbookcase.WefeltanauraofmysteryemanaCngfromthehotel.Richard,aloverofanCcsandoldbuildings,peekedwithcuriosityintothehotel.Heconfessedhealwaysdreamedofowningahoteloneday.

Wefeltanexternalforcethatdrewustothishotel.Whatwastheforcethatdrewustothehotel?Wasitmemoriesofgolddustsuspendedintheair?Wasitdramaoffortunesmadeandlosttothetunesofmusic?Ormaybewasitthetown’spastbuiltondreamsofitsfounders?

TheBeginningoftheBenicia

AttheCmeofthefirstreferencestothehotel,Beniciawasayoung,onlyseveralyearsoldpioneertown.TheideaofatownonCarquinezStraightswasconceivedbyDr.RobertBaylorSemple(1806-1854)fromKentucky.Semple,whowasabrotherofanIllinoisCongressman,hadpoliCcalandmilitaryambiCons.TofulfillhisambiCons,hedecidedtogotoCalifornia.

Eventualy,in1845,Semple,awidower,lehhissonbehindandheadedWest.InIndependence,Missouri,hejoinedtheLansfordHasCng’spartythatwasalsogoingwest.ThispartywasthelastonetoreachCaliforniathroughtheSierraMountainsbeforearoughwinter.

RobertSemplewaseasytodisCnguishinacrowd.Hewasdescribedas“lean,lank,andgoodnatured.”NaCveAmericansnicknamedhim“osobueno”.Hewassixfeeteightinchestallandwaswearingdeerskinandacoonskincapwithatailinfront.AssuchhewasabudofmanypracCcaljokes.

SemplewasinstrumentalinorganizingacontroversialraidofUnitedStatesrebelsonGeneralMarianoGuadalupeVallejo’s“CasaGrande”estateinSonoma.TheGeneral(1807-1890)wasaCaliforniomilitarycommander,poliCcian,andrancher.VallejobelievedthattheUnitedStatescouldprovidethebestpossibiliCesfortheeconomicandindustrialfutureofAltaCalifornia.

ThusVallejodidnotopposethisparamilitaryintrusiononhisestateonJune14,1846.FollowingthisrelaCvelypeacefulraid,SemplecametoknowVallejo’sfamily,friendsandservantsfirsthandanddevelopedgoodfeelingstowardsthesenaCveandadoptedCalifornians.The“rebels.”.weregraciouslyhostedbyVallejo’swife,DonaFranciscaBeniciaCorilloVallejo.

Therebels,todocumenttheirtakeover,searchedforapieceoffabricattheSonomaMissionanduponfindingone,turneditintoaflag.Oneofthempaintedabearonitinthemission’scourttosymbolizetheirtoughness.Aherwardstheyadoptedaname“BearFlag”.Aherwards,theirintrusiononCasaGrandebecameknownasBearFlagRevoluConandthebearbecameasymbolofCalifornia.

Acoupleofdayslater,despitethesegoodrelaConswiththeVallejoFamily,BearFlagrebelstookVallejoaprisonerandsubsequentlyescortedhimtoJohnC.Fremont’scampinCentralValleynearSacramento.Walkingthroughthehillsandvalleysfordaystowardsthecamp,SempleandVallejohadachancetotalkformanyhours.TheysharedmanyidealisCcviewsaboutthefutureofCalifornia.SemplewasaEempCng

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togetVallejoinvolvedinthedevelopmentofhisfuturedreamtown.Vallejo,ontheotherhand,wasmostlyinterestedinsecuringmeansofeducaConforthedreamtown.Asaresultofallthesediscussions,afriendshipbetweenthetwovisionaries,thePrisonerandtheCaptor,wasdeveloped.

SempletoldVallejoofhisvisionofsekngupatownonCarquinezStraightsusingVallejo’sland,thefuture“EmporiumofthePacific”.Vallejo,theownerofthe5000-acreSuscolGrant,promisedtodeedfiveacresfromthegranttosetupthenewtownforthesymbolicpriceofonedollarforthegrant,.VallejorequestedthatsomerevenuesweretobesetasideonaregularbasisforeducaCon.Semplewhoalsowasanidealisteasilyacceptedthisprovision.Theybothenvisionedthatthisnewtownwasgoingtobeasiteofthefirstacademyforboysandgirls.

Despitetheirbigplans,bothSempleandVallejowereshortoncash,theyneededsomeonewhocouldfinancetheirambiCousplans.Consequently,Sempleturnedtohisfriend,Mr.ThomasLarkin,theAmericanCounselofMontereyandtherichestmerchantinCaliforniaforhelp.HeaskedLarkintoparCcipateinthefoundingofanewmetropolis.Mr.Larkin,withhisconsiderablemerchantexperienceandlegalknowledge,wasindispensableindevelopmentofthisnewAmericancity.Larkinagreedandthethreeofthemstartedtalkinganddrawingplans.

In1847,theyhiredamap-makerfromSanFrancisco,Mr.VasparO’Farrell,todrawthetown.Accordingtothedesign,thetownwasgoingtoconsistofstreetsnamedaccordingtotheleEersofthealphabetandtotheordinalnumbers.ItwasthefirsttowntobeincorporatedunderCalifornia’sConsCtuCon.

Thefoundersoriginallynamedthetown“Francesca”inhonorofVallejo’swife,DonaFrancescaBeniciaCarillo.TheydiscussedthischoicewithYerbaBuenaseElerswhoatthesameCmewerechangingthenameof“YerbaBuena”to“SanFrancisco”.RepresentaCvesofbothtownswantedtoavoidconfusionduetothesimilarityof“Francisco”and“Francesca”names.Finally,thefoundersofBeniciagaveupthefirstchoiceof“Francesca”topacifyYerbaBuenafolksandchosethethirdnameofVallejo’swife,“Benicia”.Shortlythereaher,Beniciaappearedonthemap.

RobertSemplenotonlycreatedandfoundedBeniciabutalsowasoneofthemainorganizersoftheFirstConsCtuConalConvenConofCaliforniainMontereyandeventuallybecameitsPresidentin1849.HepublishedinformaConpertainingtotheconsCtuConinTheCalifornian,thefirstCalifornianewspaper.SemplewasediCngandpublishingTheCalifornianalongwithRev.ColtonofMontereyonanoldpress.BothSempleandColtonhadpreviouspublishingexperience.PriortotheirarrivalinMonterey,ColtonpublishedtheAmericanSpectatorandWashingtonCityChronicleinWashington,DC,whileSemplelearnedprinCngtradewiththeWesternArgusinFrankfort,Kentucky.

DespitethisavoidanceofstruggleonthepartofBenicia,SanFranciscofolksconCnuallystrovefordominanceinthearea.AccordingtoMr.Storer’sreportof19January1857inastamplessleEertoHonorableJamesW.Denver,theyweretryingtogainexclusiveportrightsonthePacificCoastandthustoeliminateBeniciafromcompeCCon.StorerinformedDenverthatSanFranciscoHeraldrecommendedabolishing“allpointsofentryexceptSanFrancisco.”

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IllustraCon1.Theetching“ViewofBeniciafromtheWest.”

TheearliestseElersofBeniciaWilliamTusCnandWilliamRussell,builtsmalladobesorframehouses:TusCnbuiltthefirstadobe,Russell,thesecond.Subsequently,mostofthebuildingswereerectedalongtheFirstStreetandbelowHStreet.Duetoscarcityofwood,somehouseswerebuiltofprefabricatedframes.RobertSemplecomplainedthatifBeniciahadmorelumber,morehouseswouldbebuilt.Neverthelessby1850Beniciahadalreadyapproximately100houses.

Intheearlyfihies,theHonorableCounciltoMexico,ThomasLarkin(1802-1852),acCvelyparCcipatedinthedevelopmentofBenicia.In1850Larkinsignedacontractforadevelopmentoftwostory-buildingsfor$10,000each,anenormousamountofmoneyfortheCmes.Duetohislegalbackgroundmanyrealestateinquiriesweredirectedtohim.SeveraldeveloperscontactedhimregardingbuildinghotelsinBenicia.OneofthemwasThibaultwhowantedtopurchasealottobuildahotel.(Larkin,LeEers)

Itisnotablethatintheearly50smovinghousesfromonelocaContoanotherwasarelaCvelysimpletaskbecauseitwascheaperandfastertomoveonethantoconstructanewoneinadesiredlocaCon.Inthosedays,houseswerebuiltonsandstone,notcementedtotheground,andalsotheyhadnowiring.

Thetown’sfounders,especiallyDr.Semple,triedhardtolurepeopletoseEleinthissleepynewtown.TheyevenpaidtheseElersformovingpermanentlytoBenicia.SomelessthanhonestseElerstookthemoneyforseElingdownandafewyearslaterlehthetown.Others,however,whotrulyintendedtoseEleinBeniciacomplainedthatthepricesonlotsweresettoohigh.

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SleepinessofBeniciawasinterruptedbythreefactorsthatcameintoplayalmostsimultaneously.Theywere:thediscoveryofgoldinthenearbymountainsin1848,theestablishmentofthefirstmilitarypostontheWestCoastalsoin1848,followedbyselecConofBeniciaasCapitolofCaliforniain1853-1854.

ItisnoteworthythatthenewsofgolddiscoveryspreadoutinBeniciafirst.Namely,inMay1848,anewcomer,aMr.CharlesBenneE,siknginVonPfisterstorelocatedatFirstandCStreetsoverapitcherofbeerpulledoutapieceofgoldfromhispocketthathediscoveredinthemountains.

Followingthenewsofdiscoveryofgoldhundredsofpeople,mostlymenheadedforCalifornia.FerriestransportedthemfromPortCostaandMarCneztoBenicia.ThusBeniciabecameanimportantjuncConpointformanynewcomers.Theretheylookedforaplacetosleepandeat.Theyalsolookedforplacesthatwouldoffersuppliesneededfor“diggings.”Thelocalsrespondedbybuildingmorehomesandbusinesses.

Thenextwaveofdevelopmentcamein1848whenBenicia,thankstodiplomaCceffortsofDr.Semple,waschosenforamilitarypost.DuetohisbeliefthatBeniciahadnomatchontheWestCoast,SemplerecommendedhisdreamtownforamilitaryposttoarepresentaCvefromtheWarDepartment.Subsequently,thelaEerselectedBeniciaforthepostinfavorofYerbaBuena.Thisdecisioncreatedaninstantdemandforcarpentersandotherskilledworkers.Subsequently,manypeoplefoundjobsconstrucCngbarracksandofficers’quarters,andthenewBeniciaArsenal.OneofthemwasaCarpenterWilliamBenneE,thefutureowneroftheUnionHotel

Finallyin1853,BeniciabecamethecapitalofCalifornia.SelecCngBeniciaastheCapitalofCaliforniafurtherimprovedlocaleconomyandbroughtmorepeople,mostlypoliCciansandlegislators,intoCalifornia.

Regardlesswhetherthesenewcomerswerethegoldseekers,thepoliCcians,orthecarpenters--theyallneededroom,board,andsupplies.Consequently,manybusinessespoppedupovernightduringearlyfihiestomeettheirneeds.Thus,Beniciachangedfromasleepypioneertownintoaboomtownthathadtohouseandfeedhundredsofpeoplearrivingdaily.

Insummary,BeniciabecameastopoverforgoldseekersontheirwayintothemountainsandforvisiCngpoliCciansworkingonlegislatureattheCapitalStateBuilding,aswellasadesCnaConpointformilitarypersonnelemployedatBeniciaBarracksandtheArsenal.

VisiCngpoliCciansarrivinginBenicia,thenewCapitolofCalifornia,weremostvocalindemandingqualityaccommodaCons.ThesewerethesamepoliCcianswhoacoupleofmonthsearlierrejectedVallejoasaCaliforniaCapitalduetoitspooraccommodaCons.Inresponse,BeniciansbuiltaddiConalaccommodaCons.ThusthesmalltownofBeniciabecameatownofnumeroushotels.

HotelsinBenicia

EarlyvisitorstoBeniciahadtosearchforahaystackorthefloorsofafriendlysaloonforacoverforthenight.Oneofsuchfriendlyplaceswasa25by40feetadobebuiltin1846byBenjaminMcDonald.This

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centrallylocatedadobealongtheFirstStreetinanalleyoftheCBlocwasathirdhousebuiltinBenicia.ItfuncConedasageneralstoreandagatheringplacebydayandahotelbynight.ItwasownedbyCaptainEdwardH.vonPfister.

ThefirsthotelinSolanoCounty,theCaliforniaHouse,wascompletedinDecemberof1847.Thistwo-storyadobewaslocatedonWestHStreetnearFirstStreet.ThehotelwasownedandoperatedbyMajorCooper.ImmediatelyfollowingcompleConofthehotel,thefirstweddinginCaliforniatookplacethere.Dr.Semple,awidower,wasmarryingMissFrancesCooper,thedaughterofMajorCooper.TheMajorsoldtheHotelin1855toJohnReuger.ThelaEer,followingthesale,turneditintobrewery.Thebuildingburndownin1945duringremodeling.

ApartfromCaliforniaHouse,manyotherhotelsexistedinBeniciainearly1850s.ThelocalnewspaperssuchasCaliforniaGaze:e,Sen=nel,DailyAlta,SolanoHerald,NewEraadverCzedTheAmericanHotel,VallejoHouse,TheCityHotel,Williard,SaintCharlesHotel,theSolanoHouse,andtheBellaUnionHotel.ThroughtheseadverCsements,thehotelsboastedtheirservicesthatoffered,inaddiContolodgingandaccommodaCons,stablesandstage-coachridesfromthewharftonearbyciCesofNapa,Suisun,andVacaville.TheadverCsementsalsoemphasizedtheircloselocaContothesteamboatlanding.AccordingtotheadverCsements,TheWillard’sHotelwastheclosestonetothesteamboatlandingofalllocalhotels.TheAmericanHouse,upthestreetfromWillard’s,wasalsoclosetothelanding.

TheAmericanHotelwasownedbyC.M.DavisanditwasalsooperatedoccasionallybyE.vonPfister.Mr.DavisadverCsedameniCesoftheAmericanHouseintheCaliforniaGaze:easfollows,“Thishouseisbuiltinthemostmodernstyle,withplasteredwallsthroughoutandeverythingadaptedforthecomfortofthetravelersorpleasureparCes.AcarriageisalwaysinaEendance,uponarrivaloftheboatstocarrypeopletoandfromfree.Napa,Sonoma,andSuisunStagesstartfromthishouseeverymorning.Connectedwiththehouseisa‘liveryStable’furnishedwithallkindsofvehiclesandgoodsaddlehorses,withlargeandroomystableforstalingstock.”ManypoliCciansstayedattheAmericanHotelduringthe1853-1854meeCngsofthelegislature.

AnotherhotelclosetothesteamboatlandingwastheCityHotelatFirstandBStreets.J.C.PitcheradverCseditintheCaliforniaGaze:ein1851.ItisnoteworthythattheCityHotelwasmoveduptheFirstStreetintheearly20thcentury.ItwaschoppedupinhalftofacilitatethemoveandplacedrightnexttotheUnionHotel.TodayitiscalledtheGoldenHorseShoeHotelandfuncConsasananCquestore.ItwasoperatedforyearsbyMargeandJackR.Mccounandnowbytheirson,JackMcCoun,Jr.

OtherhotelsappearinginCaliforniaGaze:ein1851wereSaintCharlesandtheBellaUnionHotels.BothwerelocatedatFirstandCStreets.Upthestreetfromthesetwohotels,wasanothergoldrushhotel,theVallejoHouse.TheHousewasalsofrequentlyadverCsedintheCaliforniaGaze:ein1851.ItwasoperatedbyStorerandGoodyear.StorerwasincorrespondencewithHonorableJamesW.DenverofWashington,DC.WoytakFamilyhasdonatedin2014Storer’sstamp-lessleEertoDenverdatedJanuary25,1856,totheHistoricalMuseumofBenicia.

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TodaytheWashingtonHousestandsatDandFirstStreetsoppositetheUnionHotel.ItsnamehasbeenchangedanumberofCmes.ItappearedontheinsurancemapastheFairviewHotelin1886,theRevereHotelin1891and,finally,astheWashingtonHousein1897.Overthedecades,thebuildinghadbeenusedasahotel,restaurant,andspeakeasy.

TheSolanoHouse,builtin1851,wasanotherprominenthotellocatedonWestEandFirstStreet.Itwasbuiltintheearlyfihies.Thiseleganthotelofferedfreeofchargeafour-milestageridestoandfromthehoteltotheguests.ThestagewasoperatedbyMiznerandNursewhodroppedoffandpickedupguests.

Accordingtonewspaperaccounts,theSolanoHousewasapreferredhoteloftheestablishmentoftheday.Itsguestlist,availableattheArchivesoftheBancrohLibraryinBerkeley,includedGeneralU.S.GrantandGeneralWilliamT.Sherman.TheSolanoHouseexistedforalmosthundredyears.Unfortunately,itwasstruckbyfirein1945duringremodelingofthehotel.

AnothereleganthoteloperaCngonFirstStreetduringtheGoldRushErawasdamagedbyFirein1856.Followingthefire,thebuildingwaspurchasedbyFischerFamily,thenmovedupthestreetnextdoortotheCapitolBuilding,andturnedintoaresidence.TodayitfuncConsasFischer-HanlonMuseum.

DuetothetremendousneedforaccommodaConsmanyresidenceswereturnedintoboardinghouses.TheybecameknownasSawyerHouse,Mrs.E.H.FrisbeeBoardingHouse,Gate’sSelectBoardingHouse,andBengelHouse.TheseboardinghouseswereadverCsedinthelocalnewspapersaswell.Theyallofferedroomandboardtorentersandtravelers.Mrs.Frisbeedescribedherboardinghousein1853inthefollowingmanner:“ThesubscriberhavingfiEedupherhouseinthemostcomfortablemannerispreparedtoaccommodatetravelersandregularboarderswithwellfurnishedroomsonliberalterms.Hertablewillbesuppliedwiththebestmarketcanafford.Napa,Sonoma,andSuisunstagesstartfromthishouseeverymorning”(CaliforniaGazeHe)

TheBengalHouse,managedbyLukeBond,waslocatedoppositeMrs.Frisbee’sBoardingHouseandtheAmericanHotel.Inthesamevaneasmanyotherboardinghouses,inaddiContoroomandboard,theseestablishmentsofferedavarietyofmerchandiseforsale.ThustheBengalHouseoffered“thebestinliquorsandcigars”.

SawyerHouse,ownedbyV.H.vonPfister,wasalsonearthesteamboatlanding.PfisteradverCsedits“outstandingliquors”availableattheHouse.

LodgingwasalsoofferedbyM.Burkart’sestablishmentatFirstandD.InaddiContolodging,italsofuncConedasarestaurant,andabakery.Mr.Burkart,aconfecConerfromGermany,wasfamousforhiscakes,includingweddingcakes,andicecream.

TheBeginningoftheUnionHotel

ManygeneraConsofBenicianshavebeenfascinatedbythemysteriouspastoftheUnionHotel.RobertBruegman,anarchitecturalexpertonBenicianotedinhisbook,“theUnionHotelistheoldest,largest,

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andleastdocumentedbuildingofBenicia.”AnoldCmeBenician,PeggyMarCn,MemberoftheBeniciaHistoricalSociety,researchedanddocumentwdtherecordsoftheUnionHotel.Note

OnedayduringthecelebraConofHistoricalDaysofBenicia,ImetPeggyMarCninfrontofthehotel.ShehandedmeherdocumentaConlisCngtheownersandthemanagersoftheUnionHotelandthelandonwhichitstands.InaddiContothenames,.MarCnalsodocumentedthetransfersoftheproperty.AccordingtoPeggyMarCn,RobertSempleoriginallyheldtheCtletothesiteonwhichtheUnionHotelstandstoday.In1847SemplesoldtheCtletothesitetoAdmiralC.W.Wooster.Subsequentlyin1849-1850,WoostersoldtheCtletothepropertytoCharlesW.Heydenwho,inturn,solditin1851toJ.W.Sandborn.

Originally,theUnionHotelwasbuiltinearly1850sdowntownatFirstandCStreets,thehubofallcommercialandentertainmentacCviCes.Overtheyears,thehotelhasbeenreferredtoastheBellaUnionHotel,TheOldUnion,TheNewportHotel,andtheUnionHotel.“Union”aswellas“BellaUnion”wereverypopularnamesofhotels.ItwasanexpressionofpatrioCcfeelingsinthestruggleofupholdingtheUnioninthemiddleofthe19thcentury.TheBellaUnionHotelexistednotonlyinBenicia,butalsoinSacramento,LosAngelesandSanFrancisco.

Thistwo-storyhotelwitha50-feetfrontagewasconstructedofredwood.Typicallyfortheperiod,ithadasidewalkcanopyonEastandWestsidesandacornerentry.AssuchtheHotelappearsinan1856pen-and-in-inkdrawingoftheFirstStreetlookingNorth.

IllustraCon2.The1856Pen-and-inkdrawingoftheFirstStreetLookingNorthbyBerniceHerger

TheBellaUnionHotelwasfamousforitsSaloonrunbyMariaMontagueformanyyears.TheSaloonofferedgirls,music,anddrinkstocustomerswhocouldpayforit.Itscustomersfrequentlyobservedpokesofgoldshovedacrossthebar.

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�IllustraCon3.DrawingsTheBellaUnionSaloonofthe1850s.FromTheOldTimers’Fiesta,September

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20-22,1946.

ThereweremanystoriescirculaCngaboutdramaattheBellaUnionSaloon.Anauthorforthe“OldTimers’Firsts”ofSeptember20,21,22,1946,writesabout“aminerwhoworkedforyearsinthehillsoutEastwayandcametotownloadedwithgolddust.Hegotdrunkandspreadhismoneyaround.Then,oneofthegirls,whosejobitwastotakethemoneyinforthehouse,tookalikingtotheminer.Sheresentedtheotherstryingtotakehismoneyandfinallybothofthemfoundthemselvesonthestreet.

“Well,Sir,”theoldOmerstellus,“nextday,nextdaymindyou,thetwoofthemappearsatthejudge’sofficeandsays,”We’reagoin’togetmarriedandwethinkthisistherightplace.”Andtheydidgetmarried—rightthereandthen—anddidgunmeiftheydidn’tlivetogetherunOltheybothdiedabouttenorfiTeenyearsback.Raisedarightsmartfamilytoo.Nope,theydidn’tstayinBenicia—movedawayfromherethatverynightandnooneheardtellofthemunOladrummercamethroughhereaboutfiTeenyearslaterandtoldaboutseeing“emupnorth.“

Duringthe1850s,therehavebeennumerousreferencestothehotelinCaliforniaGaze:e.OneofthefrequentguestsattheUnionHotelwasGovernorJohnBiglerwho,accordingtooneofhisdescendants,usedtostaythereduringhisgovernorshipinCaliforniawhichcommencedin1852.AsevidencedbytheadverCsements,theBellaUnionHotelwasinthehubofallcommercialacCviCes.Accordingtothe1851add,theBellaUnionHotelwaslocatedrightnextdoortotheJewelryStoreofWilliamB.Nurse.ThefactthatMr.NurseadverCsedhisJewelryStore“rightnexttotheBellaUnionHotel”impliesthatthehotelplayedasignificantroleinBenicia.Mr.AsaBradley,theCityandCountySurveyorof1851,alsoadverCsedthelocaConofhisbusinessasfollows,“rightnextdooreastoftheBellaUnionHotel.”

Furtherup,atthecornerofFirstandDStreets,customerscouldbuybeef,pork,lard,hams,hidestallow,game,andvegetablesinabutchershopoperatedbyD.N.HasCngsatFirstandDStreets.Mr.HasCngswasoperaCnghisbusinessintheearly1850s.Subsequently,in1852hewasremovedbyMarshallforunpaidtaxes.Mr.HasCngsreturnedbacktohisbusinessinNovemberof1855.Itisnoteworthythathisbusinessprosperedgreatly.InaddiContoprovidingprocessedmeatforBenicians,,heprocessedmeatfromSanFranciscoforitsinhabitants.DuringthatCmemostofthemeatwastransportedforprocessingfromSanFranciscotoBenicia.

InthemiddleoftheFirstandDblocsonecouldbuyicecreamandordercakesinabakeryfromMaxBurkhardt,aconfecConerfromGermany.Healsoofferedlodgingandrestaurantinhisbuilding.LodgingaccommodaConswerealsoofferednearbybyAsaPorter.Inanearbyshop,stovesandCnwarewereavailablefromL.D.Sanborninhisshopaswellashisservicesincopper,Cn,andsheetmetal.Onecouldbuyfreshbread,cakesandpiesinthenearbyUnitedStatesBakeryownedbyJohnMcKenna.

NeedlesstopointoutthatpoliCcianswhostayedinBenicianeededgovernmentoffices.ThusStateController’sOfficeappearedatFirstandDStreets.AlsotheTelegraphandPostOfficeBuildingandphotogallerywereinabuildingownedbyJ.W.HatchCompany.

InthelaEerpartofthefihies,thefollowingbusinessesweresituatedalongtheFirstandDStreets:“TheCheapStore”inthebrickbuildingofSolomonArmarak,A.MathielBootMakingStoreintheW.N.

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Building,RestaurantandBarinMaxBurkhardt’sbrickbuilding,DwellingandBar-RoomofMrs.AsaPorter,

AneconomicslowdowncameuponBeniciafollowingthemoveofthecapitaltoSacramentoandtheendofthegoldrush.In1867abigfireengulfedandparCallydestroyedmanybuildingsbetweenC,DandEblocsonFirstStreet.ForadetaileddescripConseeMichaelHayesarCcle“Acityinflames.”(Hayes)

HasOngs

Followingthefire,in1868,D.N.HasOngs,thesamemerchantwhointhe1850’soperatedthebutcher’sshopatthecornerofFirstandDStreets,purchasedthepropertyatthatlocaOonfromJ.W.Sandborn.HasOngsintendedtomoveatwo-storycommercialbuildingtothesiteofFirstandDStreets.Subsequentlytothispurchase,theUnionHotelappearsatthissiteinthe1876mapdrawnbyWest.In1877HasOngssoldthehoteltoWilliamF.BenneH.

LifeatthatCmeforthelocalsandtheirhotelguestswashard.AccordingtoSanFranciscoAltaofApril9,1977,“Pavementsareyettobemade,butwhen,nooneknows.Thesidewalksconsistofatwelve-inchboard,andpedestriansmustfollowtheleaderorsinkinthemud,whichmustbeofunfathomabledepthsduringawetWinter.”

BenneH

WilliamBenneE,wasborninBirmingham,England,in1822.Asa14-yearoldboyheimmigratedtoAustraliaandsubsequentlyworkedasacarpenterinSydneyfrom1829CllAugust1849.Thesameyear,hesailedtoSanFranciscoarrivingshortlyaherwardsinBenicia.Mr.BenneEworkedasacarpenterinBeniciaArsenalandBarracksonandofffrom1849Cll1874.Thesameyear,hetravelledtoEuropetomarryMaryAnnBoornes,anaCveofScotland.Shortlyaherwards,helehforAustralia.ThreeyearslaterhereturnedtoBeniciaandbecamenaturalizedinSolanoCountyin1882.

Mr.BenneEworkedonrenovaConofthehotelbetween1880and1881.HeextendedthefronCngofthehotelfrom50to75feet.Thebar,parlor,andrestaurantremainedonthegroundfloor.Headdedathirdfloor.Heconstructed10roomsandonebathroomoneachfloor.Duringthatperiod,theHotelwastheonlythree-storystructureinBenicia.

BenneEofficiallyreopenedthehotelin1882andnameditTheNewportHouse.TheNewEraannouncedtheopeningoftheNewportHouseatFirstandDStreets.Thehoteloffered“finefurnishedrooms,board,andlodging”at$5perroom.Underhisownership,thevalueofthepropertyincreasedfrom$500to$1500.Bycomparison,theSolanoHousewasvaluedat$1200andtheVallejoHouseat$500.

WilliamBenneEpassedonin1882leavingthehoteltohiswife,MaryAnnBenneE.In1890,MaryAnnBenneEsoldthehoteltoJohnRyan.

Attheturnofthecentury,theUnionHotelchangedseveralCmesownersandoperators.JohnRyan,whopurchasedthehotelfromMaryAnnBenneEin1882,ownedthehotelCll1887.Duringtheyearsof1882-1888,Sullivanoperatedthehotel.

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Illustra=on4.PhotographoftheUnionHotelin1898

Subsequently,from1888to1903,ChrisCansonandSilvaoperatedthehotel.DuringthatCmetheyrevertedthenameofthehoteltotheoldnameof“TheUnionHotel”.Theywereoffering,“finefurnishedrooms,boardandlodging”for$5perroom.YoucanseetheimageofthehotelpublishedbyBeniciaHerald.Itportraysathree-storybuildingwithasidewalkcanopyoneastandsouthsides.NexttoitwastheOldTownClub,aman’sbar.

Duringthefirstdecadeofthe20thcentury,thehotelchangedseveralCmesownersandoperators.Duringthatperiod,theareasufferedfromsmallpox.InAugust1907,40guestsfromtheUnionHotelhadtobequaranCnedthere.

Twobusinesses,thePravo’sRestaurantandFredSternbergBar.wereaddedtotheUnionHotelSeethe1914PhotographoftheUnionHotelpublishedbyBeniciaHeraldi

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IllustraCon5.PhotographofTheUnionHotelin1914

Aherwards,in1920sthehotelaswellastheenCretownofBenicia,againfellonhardCmes.Overtheyears,guestsatthehotelhavebeenforyearsenjoyingwatchingholidayparadesincluding4thofJulyparade.AnarchivalphotoportraysIndiansinholidayouritsonhorseledwagonsapproachingtheUnionHotel.U.S.flagsandportraitsofpoliCcianswereapartofthedécor

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�IllustraCon6..Photographofthe4thofJulyParadeApproachingtheUnionHotel.FromWilliamMcCounCollecCon

ATerWorldWar2

AnothereconomicslowdowntookoverBeniciaaherthe2ndWorldWar.Manybusinessownersboardeduptheirbusinessesduetoalackofclientele.DuringthatCme,RayArguillaownedtheUnionHotelfollowedbyA.W.Schwimpa.ThelaEersoldittoDarrellWilsonin1964.

Duringthe1950s,thehotelhadveryfewlegiCmateguests.ThegoingjokewasthattheroomsattheUnionHotelcamealreadyfilledwithanoccupant.Consequently,thehotelbecameaplaceofbadreputeandwasclosedmanyCmesbythetown’spoliceforillicitacCviCes.TwoformeremployeesoftheUnionHotel,Ms.LyndaPowersandMrs.ZoeVarner,statedthattheybothweretoldthatthehoteloperatedasa“houseofillrepute”.Mrs.Powers,whosefamilylivedinBeniciaforover100years,wrotethather“fatherwasaPoliceChiefwhoclosedtheUnionHoteldownrepeatedlyforprosCtuConduringhiswatchof23years.”ToillustrateherpointMrs.Metzstatedthat,“Ioncetookanelderlywomanonatourofthehotel.Shetoldmethatinheryouth,herfatherforbadehertotraveltoBeniciabecauseoftheUnionHotelandother‘unsavory’businesses.”

EvenduringthesehardCmes,theUnionHotelaEractedanumberoffamouspersonaliCes.Oneofthemwasthefamousmovieactor,HumphreyBogart.BogartkepthisboatatBeniciawharf.Hewasafrequent

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guestattheUnionHotel.Heusuallystayedonthesecond-floorroomthatiscalledtoday“SeasideDaisy”andoffersafullviewoftheCarquinezBridge.Whilestayingatthehotel,healsowoulddineanddrinkattheRestaurantandBarsituateddirectlybelowhisroom.

Finally,inthe1960s,thehotelceasedtooperateandcloseditsdoorsforthenextfiheenyears.During

IllustraCon7.ThePhotographofUnionHotelin1960s.

thatCme,thegroundlevelwasusedforwoodworkingshopandagarage.Toaddinjurytothewound,inthe1970sthehotelwascondemnedbytheCityandplacedontheinfamouslistofbuildingstobedemolished.ItisnoteworthythatthelistincludedStCatherineAcademyandotherhistoricalbuildings.

DuringthatCme,SallyWoodbridge,anotedArchitect,reviewedtheUnionHotelintheHistoricalAmericanBuildingsSurvey,LibraryofCongress..TheSurveyprovidesthearchitecturaldescripConofthehotelonline.Woodbridgenotedthatthehotel’scanCleverwasusedtosupportporchroof.Seeherphotographsofthehotelfrom1960s.

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IllustraCon8.CanCleveroftheUnionHotel

MerriHs

TopreventtheCityfromdestroyingthehotel,somelocalsgotinvolvedinaEempCngtosavethehotel.CarltonandAliceMerriErescuedtheUnionHotelfromdestrucConbypurchasingitinthe1970s.

CarltonMerriE,withhisownhandsandhelpofothers,replacedthedisintegraCng1850ssandstonefoundaConwithanewone.Healsoupdatedtheinterior,constructedanewroof,andalteredthefacades.MerriEsremovedseveralwindows,entries,andverandasonthegroundfloor.Exceptforthe

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mainentryandthebackdoor,theywalledofftheenCregroundfloor.FormoredetailsseeVallejoArchives.Vallejoarchives.MerriEssoldtheUnionHotelin1980toSteveSegalofLuckyLanes.

SegalofLuckyLanes

SteveSegalofLuckyLanespurchasedtheUnionHotelin1980fromtheMerriEs.Segalmodernizedthehotel.Heconstructedanewdrainagesystemforthehotel.Hereplacedthewoodenstaircasewithanelevatorsotheguestscouldgetalihtothesecondandthirdfloors.Furtherheconstructedthenewwallsfeaturinglargebaywindowsinthebackofthehotel.

Segalenlargedtheroomsoneachfloorbyreducingtheirnumberfrom20to12.Heremovedtwooldbathrooms,oneper10roomsoneachfloor,andreplacedthemwithindividualspaciousbathrooms,oneforeachroom.

NextheelegantlyfurnishedtheroomswithperiodanCcs.Thenamesfortheroomswerecarefullyselectedtoevokethenatureofeachone.Theywere“SummerSkies”,“CumberlandCountry”,“MassachuseEsBay”,“LouisLeMad”,“TheRitz”,“FourPoster”,and“GeorgetheIII”.

Alongwiththehelpoftheoperatorofthehotel,GeraldGunderson,Segalpurchased1886EastlakeBarandasixbyeightstainedglassforthehotelatthe10thAnnualArchitecturalAucOoninLosAngeles.Thebar,originallycarvedinAfrica,camefromtheSenateHotelinPrinceton,NewJersey.ThestainedglassplacedintheceilingoftherestaurantoriginatedfromtheElksLodgeinDubuque,Iowa.

Further,SteveSegalcommissionedsixstained-glasswindowsatMaxandMoritzStained-GlassStudioofOakland.ThewindowsweredesignedtocommemorateBeniciaasaStateCapital.ThesewindowsreplacedtheFrenchwindowsonthegroundfloor.

SteveSegalofficiallyopenedthedoorsofthenewlyrenovatedUnionHotelonValenCne’sDayofFebruary18,1981.Underhisownership,theUnionHotelbecamefamousnotonlyforitselegantaccommodaConsbutalsoforitsoutstandingrestaurantandbar.

DuringthatCme,therestaurantoftheUnionHotelearnedfour-stars.Themanagementofferedtogetanywinewithin2hoursoforder.TherestauranthadbeenfeaturedinGourmet,BonAppe=te,andtheMotorland.JudyRodgers,agraduateofChezPanineofBerkeley,becamethechefoftherestaurant.RodgersdesignedaCaliforniaCuisinemenu.Shewasfamousforusingthebestandthefreshestingredients.Accordingtothelocals,manypeoplewishedtheycouldgetsomescrapesfromherpreptable.AmorePrevot,whofollowedJudyRodgersinthisposiCon,movedtowardsTransiConalFrenchCuisine.ThehoteldevelopeditsownrecipeofUnionHotelScones.

PresidentRonaldReagan,atwo-termGovernorofCalifornia,usedtostopattheUnionHotelonhiswayfromSacramentotohaveadrinkattheBar.OneoftheformeremployeesoftheUnionHoteltoldmethatoneCmehissecurityassistantslehtheirtelephonesatthebarandhadtorushbacktopickthemup.Finally,ahereightyearsofownership,SteveSegalsoldtheUnionHoteltorunacoffeeshopontheEastCoast.

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StevenLipworthofBayAreaHoldings

StevenLipworthacquiredtheUnionHotelinthe1980s.HeputalotofeffortintopromoConofthehotel.HealsoofferedlunchesanddinnersattherestaurantonWednesdaythroughSaturday.JazzconcertsweregivenonSundays.Lipworthhadanofficeacccrossthestreetandwasseenfrequentlyrunningfromhisofficetothehotelandback.Ms.AbbyHelbigwrote“Heconcentratedonfillingtheroomsandhavinggoodfoodandentertainment.”

Occasionally,heorganizeddinnereventsduringwhichNapawinemakerswouldrevealtechniquesofwinemaking.UnderLipworth’sownership,theUnionHotelbecameasocialhub.Lipworthcoinedtheconceptofthehotelinthefollowingmanner:“…aspecialplace,superbfoodandfinewine.”

Lipworthlikedtosharenumerousanecdotesaboutthehotel.OneCme,hesaid,amiddle-agedcouplecametothehotelandahercheckingin,theysetonabedandallofasuddenwerepinneddownbyahugearmoire.Unfortunately,theyremainedpinneddownCllthenextmorningwhenoneofthehousekeepersdiscoveredthemfrightenedunderthearmoire.EvenHerbCahenreportedanecdotesfromtheUnionHotelinSanFranciscoChronicle,seehiscolumndatedJanuary16,1991,

ElegantHotels

Subsequently,SteveLipworthsoldthehoteltothe“ElegantHotels”,aninvestmentgroupofIndoratoandMathieson.AccordingtoBeniciaHerald,“…thenewownershaveoverseenanoverhauloftheUnionhistoricdiningroom,restoredthelounge.”Theydesignedtheroomsaccordingtovariousthemesandnamedthemaccordingly.Thustherewasanartdecoroomnamed“1932”,aglitzy19th-centuryroomnamed“Ritz”.

Richard’sDreamInns

SubsequentlytheUnionHotelofBeniciawasputupforsalebyUnionBankin2001.WerememberedthehotelfromourfamilytriptoBeniciaandVallejoin1997,theUnionHotelofBeniciawThatyearwehappenedtolookfor.aninvestmentinSolanoCountybecausetwoofmychildrenwereattheCaliforniaMariCmeAcademy.Wethoughtthehotelwouldbeachallengingundertaking.andconsequentlywedecidedtodrivetoBeniciatoseethehotelagain.

AsweslowlydrovedowntheFirstStreettothehotelonasunnySaturdaymorning,wepickedupmyson,John,atthecornerofFirstandFStreets,whowantedtojoinusinoursearch.Togetherwestoppedrightinfrontofthehotelandgazedaround.WenoCcedthattheUnionHotelwassurroundedbytwootheroldhotelsTheGoldenShoeHotelandTheWashingtonHouseHotel.Thesehotelsseemedtohavesimilarelementsofdesign.LaterIfoundoutthattheywerebuiltinthe1850s.AllthreehotelsrepresentedGothicrevivaland,unlikemanyotherbuildingsthatwereimportedtoBenicia,theywerebuiltlocally.TheywereconstructedofheavyCmberredwoodwithhorizontalsiding,

Wepeekedinside:WesawourreflecConinfancymirrorandanoldblackbookcaseagainsttheotherwall.Boththerestaurantandhotelseemedtobeidle.AddyHelbig,alocalrealtor,invitedusinside.We

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satattherestaurantatthebigroundoaktable.Itwasverystuffy.Exceptfortheentrancetherewerenodoorsorwindowsthatonecouldopen.Addy,whosufferedfromasthma,hadtostepouttogetsomefreshair.Aherwardsweallwalkedtogetherthroughthehotel.Weglancedattherooms.Itwouldbeanunderstatementtosaythatalltheroomsneededafacelih.

Despitemanyunknowns,Iandmychildrendecidedtopurchasethehotelinmyhusband’smemory.Irefinancedmyhometopurchasethehotel.Thus“Richard’sDreamInns”wascreatedofwhichtheUnionHotelbecameanintegralpart.

Whilefinalizingthepurchaseofthehotel,Iandmyoldestdaughter,Adele,droveoneahernoontothehotelthatnowwasenCrelyempty.Aswewalkedtowardsthehotel,wenoCcedauniformedguardwhowatchedthehotelfortheUnionBank.HekeptpacingevenlyalongtheFirstStreetfromthecornerofDStreettothealley.Wewalkedintothehotelandselectedaroomonthesecondfloorcalled“Victoriana”foranovernightstay.Wegotastrangefeelingaswelookedfurnishedwith19th-centuryanCcsandtwocoloredphotographicportraitsofamanandawomanstarringdirectlyatus.Astrangefeelingoffearovercameus.Itwasnoteasedbysomescreechysoundscomingfromabove.

“Didyouhearthisnoise?”Iaskedmydaughter.

“Idid.I’mscared.”Repliedmydaughter.

“Let’scallthepolice.”Repliedmydaughter.

Wecalledthepoliceandshortlythereahersomeoneknowckedonourdoor.

“Whoisit?”

“It’spolice.”SCllscared,weopenedupthedoorandletinapolicewoman.

“IcheckedthehotelfromtoptoboEom.There’snooneinside.”

“Sonooneiswonderingaround.Absolutelynoone,”Iwaswonderingaloudthinkingnotonlyaboutpeoplebutsomewonderingspirits.

“Noneedtobeafraid,”sheexplained,“Thesearehotelroomlocks,noonecanenterfromtheoutside..Besides,youhaveaguardwatchingthehotel.

HerexplanaConscalmedusdownandwefellasleep.

WebrainstormedprosandconsofdifferentwaysofrenovaCngthehotelandlistenedtocity’sandcounty’sconcernsandrequestsregardingoperaConsofthehotel.Therewereendlessmaintenanceissues.WenolongerhadevenCmetothinkaboutghosts.Theirpower,onceoverwhelming,hadtogiveintothepowerofbrush,screwdriver,andnail.

MyoldestdaughtertookoffayearfromcollegetoworkonrenovaConofthehotelalongwithherhusbandwhowasanexperiencedconstrucConworker.WestartedrenovaCononthethirdfloor

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redesigningeveryroomandeverybathroom.ForseveralroomsweselectedhistoricallyaccurateBradburyandBradburyWallpaper.Wepurchased19thcenturywoodfromanoldtobaccocompanytoreplacewarnrugsinthehallwaysandrooms.Wealsobuiltnewwoodenstairsbetweenthesecondandthethirdfloors.

Simultaneously,weremodeledseveralbathrooms.Myoldestdaughter,Adele,alsorenamedtheroomsaherthenamesofthelocalflowers.ThustodaytheroomsareCoastLotus,SeaLavender,WildPeony,BeachPrimrose,Arrowgrass,FawnLilyMarigold,SeasideDaisy,andLupine.OnlyVictoriana,duetoitsdécor,retainedtheoldname.

AttheCmeofthepurchaseofthehotel,acontemporaryextendedcemententryledtotheentrancedoor.Wedecidedtoreplacethisunfikngentrywiththeoriginalrecessedoneasportrayedintheoldphotos.AsIwatchedtheremovalofthecement,InoCcedoldredwoodappearingfromunderneath.IexperiencedawarmfeelingofconnecConwiththepast.

WenoCcedthatthegroundofthehotelwasextremelystuffy.TherewerenodoorsorwindowsalongtheFirstStreetoralleywallsofthehotelonthegroundfloorexceptforthefrontdoor.Theresultwasthatthelobbywassostuffythattherealtor,MsHelbig,wasunabletositinthelobbymorethanthreeminutesduetolackoffreshair.BeniciaFiremenalsoconsideredthelackofexitsintherestaurantandthelobbytobeafiretrap.

Toprovideanairflowandthusmakethehotelsafer,werehabilitatedtheoldentriesonthegroundfloorofthehotel.Thuswerebuilttheentryonthealleysideandrehabilitatedtheoneatthecornertotherestaurantaspicturedinthe1898and1914photosofthehotel.DuringreconstrucCon,wediscoveredtheoldredwoodbeamsupporCngtheoldcornerentry.Astheoriginalentrywasflankedbytwowindows,weplacedtwostainedglasswindows,oneoneachside.DuringconstrucCon,weuncoveredtheoriginalredwoodbeamsatthetopoftheentry.

ThesenewentrieswerewelcomedbytheBeniciaFireDepartmentbutwerecriCcizedbyseveralBenicianswhoarrivedintheBeniciainthe60sandwantedtokeepthehotelthewaytheMerriEsalteredit.Acontroversydevelopedoverahistoricalwindowplacedinthewall.SeveralneighborsevensignedapeCConsupporCngoureffort.EventuallytheCitydeclaredthattheplacementofthewindowalongtheDStreetwallwasconsistentwiththePreservaConGuidelinesoftheSecretaryofState.(PreservaConGuidelines)

Atagreatexpense,weremovedportableexteriorstairsandbuiltnewwoodenexternalentrytothehotel.DuringtheconstrucConofthestairs,wediscoveredtheoldoriginalonesmadeofredwood.AddiConally,wereplacedmostofthealuminumwindowswiththewoodenones,andinstalledanewalarmsystem.TomakethehotelmorebeauCful,wecommissionedthreenewstainedglasswindowsonthegroundfloorinthelobbyofthehotel.AlocalstainedglassarCstdesignedandbuiltthesewindowswithimagesofbasketsfullofflowers.

Duringtheremodelingprocess,wetalkedtomanylocals.ManyofthemhadtheirownfamilystoriesinvolvingtheUnionHotel.Oneoftheelectricianscheckingtheoldalarmsystemreminisced,“Oh,yahh,

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mygrandparentsspentattheUnionHoteltheirweddingnight.”AnotherpersoncalledmeandtoldmethathewasinpossessionofahugecollecConoftheCivilWarArtthatusedtohangintheRestaurantoftheUnionHotel.

Wereopenedthehotelin2002.Weslowlyweregekngintothebusinessbeat,whenSeptember11happened.Iwasatthehotellobbythatmorningservingbreakfast.AsIwasrefillingcupswithcoffeeforourguests,IoverheardthemwhisperingtoeachotherabouttheirflightcancellaConsinSanFrancisco.

Needlesstosay,occupancywentdownaher9/11.Tryingtosavethehotel,IappliedtoSBAforassistance.TheywereadverCsingassistancetosmallbusinessesimpactedby9/11.Followingareview,theSBAdeniedourapplicaConbecausetheydidnotbelievethattheUnionHotelcouldsurviveasabusiness.

BeniciaHeraldpostedanarCcleabouttherenovaConsattheUnionHotel.ThewriternotedthattheownerswelcomeinformaConaboutthehotel.SeveralpeoplecameforwardandprovidedatesCmonyaboutthehotel.

Ghosts

TheUnionHotelhasalwayshadareputaConofahauntedhotel.Sensingghostsatthehotelhasbeenreportedbyformerandcurrentemployeesofthehotel,someguests,andsensingexperts.

Severalformeremployeesofthehotelhavesharedwithmetheirownexperiencesatthehotel.,Terese,aconciergeandamanageroftheUnionHotelfrom1984to1988toldmein2001,“Duringtheeveningsmanyemployeeswoulddiscusstheghostthatsupposedlyfrequentedtheguestroomwereferredtoas“Mrs.Miniver”.Ineversawtheghost,butIwasalwaysnervousworkingthegraveyardshihoccasionally.”John,aformeremployeeofthehotel,statedthatonseveraloccasionsheheardloudnoisesofmusicandconversaConscomingfromtherestaurantdownstairs.Tohissurprise,however,uponhischeckontherestaurant,hefounditcompletelyemptyandquiet.Anotherformeremployee,Lillian,alsoexperiencedstrangenoisesandvibesatthehotel.Sheandothersalsonotedappearanceofatallmanwearingablacksuitwasappearingupstairsintheeveninghours.

PauleEealsorespondedtomy2002callforrecollecConsoftheirexperienceattheUnionHotel.Shestatedthatsheenjoyedworkingatthehotelfrom1982to1992.Sheandhercoworker,Jeannie,frequentlyfellsomethinginVictoriana,aroomonthesecondfloorfacingtheFirstStreet.Theroomhaspicturesonthewallofanelderlygentlemanandawoman,bothdressedinVictorianakre.AddiConallyshesaidthatJeanie,herself,andotheremployeesreportedseeingaglimpseadisappearingindividuals.Specifically,theynotedinthecorneroftherestaurantappearancesofawomaninaweddingdress.NextPauleEesaidthatsheandothersnotedachefcookwithabigwhitehatwaspersistentlyappearinginthemorningsattheentrancetothekitchenaccompaniedbyawaitresstalkingandlaughinginthebackofthekitchen.

Currentstaffofthehotelalsoreportedhauntedfeelingsatthehotel.Thehousekeeper,Marisa,saidthatsheexperiencedfeelingsofsomeoneelse’spresencedespitethefactthatshefelthotelwasempty.

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AddiConally,therestaurantmanagerandowner,Gabby,alsoreportedthathefeltahauntedpresencethere.Numerousemployeesreportedhearingstrangenoisesatthehotel.

Severalexpertsinsensingghostshaveexaminedthehotel.Someofthemusedextrasensorytoolstomeasuretheirpresence.TheyreportedposiCvefindingsofintensehunCngatmosphere.

FirstStreetofBeniciahasplacedtheUnionHotelonitsAnnualHalloweenWalkofHauntedHouses.Duringthetour,theguidetalksofvariousghostsattheUnionHotelincludingthatofcryingMaryreappearingatthehotelatnight.

In2003,FredFuldofConcord,California,madeamovieCtled“UnionHotelinBenicia”,apartofthedocumentary“BayAreaGhosts”.ThedocumentarywaspresentedattheNewYorkInternaConalIndependentFilmandVideoFesCval.Subsequently,thedocumentary“BayAreaGhosts”wasscreenedinLosAngelesandLasVegasFesCvals.ItwasawardedanHonorableMenConattheLosAngelesAwardFesCval.

TheUnionHotelfordecades,ifnotcenturies,hasbeenabeloveddesCnaConpointformanyBeniciansandvisitors.ZoaMetz,abartenderoftheUnionHotelfrom1981to1993,wrotethatthe“UnionHotelwas,is,andalwayswillbeBenicia’sPhenix”.

References

Books

Author.1958.Benicia’searlyglory:CaliforniaStateCapital,1853-1854.Vallejo,CA:TheSolanoCoutyofHisstoricalSociety.

Author1850Census,SolanoCounty,California.www.diggingupbones.com

Bancroh,HubertHowe.1886.TheworksofHubertHoweBancroT.Vol.XXL;HistoryofCalifornia:Vol.V.SanFrancisco:TheHistoryCompany.

Bruegmann,Robert.1980.Benicia:PortraitofanearlyCaliforniatown.Fairfield,CA:JamesStevenson.

Colton,Rev.Walter.U.S.N.1850.ThreeyearsinCalifornia.NewYork:A.S.Barnes.

Cowell,JosephineW.1963.HistoryofBeniciaArsenal.Berkeley,CA:Howell-NorthBooks.

Dillon,Richard.1980.GreatExpectaOons:ThestoryofBenicia,California.Fresno,CA:BeniciaHeritageBook.

Farquhar,FrancisP.,Ed.1974.UpanddownCaliforniain1860-1864;THEJournalofWilliamH.Brewer,ProfessorofaAgricultureintheSheffielldScienCficSchoolfrom1864to1903.1stpaperbackediCon.Berkely,CA:UniversityofCaliforniaPress.

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Gudde,ErwinG.1989.Californiaplacenames.4thed.WilliamBright,Ed.Berkeley,CA:UniversityofCalifornia.

Hague,Harlan&Langum,DavidJ.1990.ThomasO.Larkin:AlifeofpatrioOsmandprofitinoldCalifornia.NormanandLondon:UniversityofOaklahoma.

Harlow,Neal.1989.Californiaconquered:TheAnnexaOonofaMexicanProvince1846-1850.FirstPaperbackPrinCng.Berkeley,CA:UniveristyofCalifornia.

Heyes,Michael.Cityinflames.HiEell,JohnS.1866.TheresourcesofCalifornia:Pastandfuturedevelopmentofthestate.SanFrancisco:A.Roman.

Hoover,MildredBrooke.1966.HistoricspotsinCalifornia.Stanford:StanfordUniversityPress.Pp.514-515.

Hunt,MargueriteandGunn,HarryLawrence.1926.HistoryofSolanoCountyandNapaCounty.Vol.1.

Lotchin,RogerW.SanFrancisco,1846-1856:Fromhamlettothecity.Urbana:UniversityofIllinoisPress.P.32.

McKiErick,MyrtleM.1944.Vallejo:SonofCalifornia.Portland,OR:Binfords&Mort.

Hunt,Margarite.1926.HistoryofSolanoCounty,California.Vol.1.Chicago:TheS.J.ClarkePublishing.

Larkin,ThomasOliver.SelectedleHers.

Miller,LeNoir,Ed.1958.Benicia’sEarlyGlory:CaliforniaStateCapitol1853-1854.Vallejo,CA:TheSolanoCountyHistoricalSociety.

Sherman,GeneralWilliamT.1945.RecollecOonsofCalifornia,1846-1861.Oakland,CA:Biobooks.

Underhill,ReubenL.1939.Fromcowhidestogoldenfleece:AnarraOveofCalifornia,1832-1858.Stanford,CA:StanfordUniversity.

Wilson,MarkA.1979.EastBayheritage:Apotpourrioflivinghistory.SanFrancisco:CaliforniaLivingBooks.

Wood,AlleyandCo.1879.HistoryofSolanoCounty.Fairfield,CA:JamesStevenson.

Woodbridge,SallyB.1988.Californiaarchitecture:HistoricAmericanBuildingsSurvey.SanFrancisco:ChronicleBooks.

Woodruff,JacquelineMcCart.1947.Benicia:ThePromiseofCalifornia.Vallejo,CA:Author.

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Newspapers

AltaCalifornia,1877

BeniciaHerald,1898,1914

Californian,1846

TheCaliforniaGaze:e,1851

NewEra,1882

TheOldTemers’Fiesta,1946

Documents

HistoricalAmericanBuildingsSurvey.LibraryofCongress.

SolanoCountyArchives.CountyPropertyRecords.

PeggyMarCn.ChronologicalorderofownershipofOtlethetheUnionHotel,UnpublishedDocument.

PeggyMarCn.ChronologicalListoftheManagersoftheUnionHotel,UnpublishedDocument.

StamplessLeEerof1853toHonorableDenver.DonatedbytheWoytakFamilytoBeniciaHistoricalMuseum.

Ar1cles

Bowen,Jerry.2006.Publicservice,familytragedymarkedthegeneral’slife.HistoricalArCclesofSolanoCountyofOnlineDatabase.

Heyes,Michael.Cityinflames.

Miller,LeNoir.1951.FirsthotelinSolanoCounty.BeniciaBomber,Vol.1.

Notes

1. TheWoytakFamilydonatedthestamplessdiplomaCcleEerwriEenbyStorertotheBeniciaHistoricalMuseum.

2. .HistoryoftheCtletothepropertyonwhichtheUnionHotelstandstodaywascompiledbyaMemberoftheBeniciaHistoricalSocietyandaneighboroftheUnionHotel,Ms.PeggyMarCn.TodaytheLanenexttotheUnionHotelbearshernameThePeggyMarCnLane.

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