HO Scale · Glue the ladder in place in the notches in the second level floor. 9 Glue the hatch back in place in an open or closed position as you wish. Assemble the upper window

HO Scale

Kit # HO-3005

Kit Assembly Instructions

Rev. 2012-1

Choking Hazard - Small Parts

WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD - Small parts

Not for young children

Copyright Notice

© 2012 Inter-Action Enterprises

This document and its content are protected by Canadian copyright law. Except as otherwise provided for under Canadian copyright law, this document and its content may not be copied, published, distributed, downloaded or otherwise stored in a retrieval system, transmitted or converted, in any form or by any means, electronic or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

Crossing Shanty

HO-3005: Crossing Shanty, HO Scale: Kit Assembly Instructions: Rev 2012-1

Inter-Action Enterprises

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Crossing Shanty in HO Scale

The railroad crossing shanty gave the crossing gatemen protection from the elements and a clear view of the track and road with the windowed second level. The gatemen manned the crossing 24 hours a day and would lower or raise the crossing gates to stop traffic as the trains approached. Railroad crossing shanties were seen on the railways from before the inception of the automobile to well into the 1950’s when the gatemen were replaced with automatic gates.

This example is representative of a type used in the Midwest USA in the 20’s and 30’s.

Supplied Kit Components:

• 6 sheets of laser cut and engraved stabilized Resin Impregnated Board (RIB) for crisp, high resolution detail

• 1 sheet of laser cut clear window glazing • 1 basswood building base and stove fuel box base • Chimney tubing • Kit assembly instructions

Suggested Tools and Supplies:

• X-Acto type knife with fresh blades (#11 style is best) • Tweezers • Fine sandpaper (400+ Grit) • Masking tape or clear adhesive tape • Probond, Elmers white glue or Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive (I like the Scotch adhesive as it dries with

little residue and has a great fine applicator tip) • CA glue for immediate bond of small hard to place parts • Acrylic or enamel paint

We hope you enjoy making this kit as much as we did providing it to you. If you have any questions, please contact us at [email protected].

The following instructions and photos will provide the basics for assembling this detailed kit. We have tried to make the steps as straight forward as possible, but please note that you might want to change the order of assembly to suite your own technique and modifications that you might make along the way. As usual it is best to familiarize yourself with all the parts and instructions before you start on this craftsman level kit.

NOTE: If you would like to view these instructions in full colour, please feel free to download a full colour

copy at www.interactionhobbies.com and click on the link for "Instructions" near the top of the page.



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Your kit comes with sheets of laser cut 0.011”,

0.018”, and 0.023” thick RIB, laser cut clear window

material, and a basswood base.

You will also find some chimney material.

1 Start by cleaning out any contaminates and

remaining dust that may be in the cracks of the

engraved details in sign, walls etc.

This is done by using a stiff bristle brush and gently

dusting the nooks and crannies. Don’t be too

aggressive as the material can be brittle and fine

detail may be broken or removed. Avoid touching

very fine details like window muttons etc.

2 Painting the parts while still attached to the sheet is an

easy way of getting quick and easy coverage for your

model and to minimize warping. I like to use the “ZIG

Woodcraft” paint markers available from many of the

craft stores like Michaels, though any acrylic, enamel

or oil based paint works well.

Make sure you consider which side is out or in so you

can colour the inside walls where required.

Glue the lower window sills on the walls as shown. The

slightly wider base goes to the outside of the wall.

3

Generic Photo, actual parts differ.

This flange is slightly wider then the inner one.



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Glue the window muntin to the inner wall and then glue

the glazing to the muntin (3 places).

4

Glue the upper elbow trims flush to the top of the wall.

Remember you can always glue in the door in an open

position in the next few steps to add some character to

your model.

5

Glue the window and door frames to the outer walls.

Assure they are flush to the inside of the openings.

The door frame should be flush to the upper part of

the door opening.

Start the main floor assembly by gluing the door wall and

one of the matching window walls together and to the

basswood base.

NOTE: We don’t think that bracing is necessary on this

build, but for those that still want to brace, we have

allowed for corner breakouts in the base and main floor if

you want to add some 1/8” square bracing to the corners.

6

Next, glue the main level floor so that the tab on it

lines up with the slot in the door wall.



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Then glue the remaining walls / assembly together.

Cut the vertical trim from the holding sheet and glue in

place on the building. The wide and narrow trims should

alternate on each wall. (i.e. wide and narrow trims should

touch one another.)

7

Note that one of the wide trim pieces fits to the right

side of the door. This is to make room for the stair

assembly to fit tight to the wall.

Cut the second level hatch free from the second level

floor.

8

Apply some glue to the inside walls of the lower floor

just above the door frame and insert the second level

floor.

Note: shorter trim goes here to fit stairs flush against building.



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Glue the ladder in place in the notches in the second level

floor.

9

Glue the hatch back in place in an open or closed

position as you wish.

Assemble the upper window ring as shown so that the

basswood ring is evenly spaced around the 8 sided sill.

10

Apply a dab of glue at these 4 locations to fit the lower

level walls.

Seat the sill assembly against the lower wall assembly so

that the top of the wall assembly (4 locations) is flush to

the bottom side of the octagon sill.

11



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Finish the shoulder roof triangles (4) as you want. Glue

the roof triangles to the lower wall assembly as shown.

12

The original panels appeared to be tarpaper or rolled

roofing, but you may want to add your own shingles. I

liked the look of the painted RIB material directly.

The upper floor windows and roof look daunting at first, but reading through the instructions fully and then taking it one

step at a time will quickly build a very accurate and precise model and make you truly a master of little things!!

Glue 4 of the 8 window muntins (a couple of extra ones

are supplied in case you break one) to the back side of the

short frame pieces (the thick frames, not the trim

frames). Then glue the glazing to the muntins.

13

Glue the remaining 4 window muntins to the back side

of the tall frame pieces. Then glue the glazing to the

muntins.

I dab small dabs of white glue or canopy glue along the edges

of the muntins and then stab the edge of the glazing and set it

in place. Gently push the assembly until you see the glue at the

edge of the muntin frame so that no glue oozes into the open

edge of the muntin and then let it set up.

If you want any of your windows to appear open, cut

the muntins and glazing accordingly before gluing to

the frame parts. Remember which ones will open all

the way and which ones only open a short bit

according to the uneven roof shape.



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Start the upper frame assembly by gluing a tall frame

assembly and a short frame assembly into the slots in the

sill. Also glue the adjoining edges of the tall and short

frame together.

14

Next, add another tall and short frame.

Glue a tall frame and the roof support with the notches in

place.

Note the orientation of the notches.

Glue one more short frame in place



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Glue the last tall frame in place and the next roof support

in place at the same time.

Then add the last short frame in place.

15 Paint the upper trim frame to your liking and cut them

out.

Glue the trim frames to the faces of the assembly so that

the lower edge is flush with the sill and it is centered left

to right with the window openings.

16

I picked up these micro clothes line clamps at the

dollar store in the crafters section. Very handy and

cheap!!



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Gently cut the trim ring from the sheet and finish painting

the edges.

17

Apply glue as shown to install the trim ring.

Gently ease the trim ring over the window assembly so

that it seats in to the notches in the lower frames.

Scrape / wipe any excess glue from around the ring for

a clean finished look.

Add the chevron shaped trims to the four faces of the tall

trim frames.

18

The trim bits should sit flush to the top edge so that

the tabs in the frames are fully exposed.



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Glue the 4 rectangular roof panels in place and insert the

tabs into the slots in the roof frame and the tall window

frames.

19

Bevel the tapered edge of the trapezoid shaped roof

panels so that they fit flush against the already installed

roof panels.

20

All 8 roof panels should meet at the center and be at the

same height.

21

Glue the 4 cross roof panels in place by applying glue

to the back side of the panel and slide it along the

crotch of the roof so that the edges of the panel come

in contact with the eaves of the already installed roof.



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Glue the 9 outer roof panels in place as shown. For a

tighter fit, bevel the back edge of each part that will be

the roof peak so they fit to a point at the top.

22

Again, I finished mine by painting the roof as a rolled

roof.

Glue the two square chimney supports together and then

glue the chimney into the hole in the support.

23

Glue the chimney to the center of the open square in

the roof.

Glue one of the stair supports to the lower porch panel

(small one) and glue the cross support to the back edge of

the panel.

24

Assemble the rest of the stairs as shown below.



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Start gluing the tread by setting the bottom one first.

The right edge of the support and the first tread are

flush so that they fit against the wall of the building.

Glue on the remaining treads and top deck.

NOTE that the notched tread is the second from the

bottom.

Glue the two railing halves together and then glue into

the notches in the tread and deck.

Glue the stove fuel box together starting with the

basswood base and two joining walls.

25

Assemble the remaining walls.



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Add the lid.

…and the hinges.



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Documents

HO Scale · Glue the ladder in place in the notches in the second level floor. 9 Glue the hatch back in place in an open or closed position as you wish. Assemble the upper window