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‘How-to’ guides

Date: 7 June 2007 Title: Fitting R34 GTR Front Brembo Brakes

Written by: Kevin Kydd (kkydd of NSOC)Tools you will need:

Trolley Jack Axle Stand Wheel Nut Spider (or 19mm socket on a breaker bar) 10mm Brake Nipple Spanner Brake Bleed Kit Dot 5.1 brake fluid Socket Set Rubber mallet Drip tray Large Flat Blade Screw Driver Thread lock

Method

1. Slacken wheel nuts but do not remove.

2. Jack car and support using Axle Stand.

3. Remove wheel nuts and wheel.

4. You should have something looking like this, the caliper may be different as I am upgrading from R32 GTR brakes and also I have a spacer fitted.

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5. Remove spacer, 5 x 20mm nuts. - Tip get someone to press the brake pedal in order to stop the disc and spacer rotating.

6. Slacken and remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on these are located as shown below, these will either be M12 or M14 bolts depending on what brakes your Stagea has.

-Note these will be very tight as they are thread locked in.

7. At this remove the calliper with a rubber mallet and use cable ties to tie the calliper up out of the way, careful not to stress the brake hose seen above. You may need to pry the pads away from the disc slightly with a large flat bladed screw driver.

8. Remove brake disc, Nissan very kindly made this easy by putting two holes in the hub of the disc for bolts to be screwed in and push the disc off from the hub.

Caliper Bolts

Brake Hose

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9. Depending on how new you brake fluid is you may or may not want to drain the system down. Due to a burst line 2 weeks before I decided to upgrade the brakes my fluid was very new and therefore did not warrant me draining the system and replacing all the fluid.

10. Place the drip tray under the hub at this point and make sure you have the R34 caliper at hand, proceed to loosen and remove the banjo bolt (12 or 13mm). Quickly fit the banjo and bolt to the r34 caliper and tighten, if you R34 calipers came with a banjo bolt use this one. If not source one before starting this. Note there should be a copper seal on either side of the banjo, make sure it is there or it will leak.

11. Tighten the banjo bolt and roughly line the brake hose up, I did the final alignment after the calliper was fully fitted.

12. Tie the R34 caliper up and remove the old caliper, Note some fluid will leak out of the old calliper so sit some where you can catch the fluid, I used a second drip tray.

13. R34 GTR Calipers use M14 x 1.5 bolts. Check the size of the caliper bolt holes on the hub carrier, if you have 14mm holes proceed to 14, if you have 12mm holes simple drill the hub mount holes out to 14mm. I used a M14 & a M12 bolt for this.

14. Now fit the R34 GTR disc, make sure the mating surfaces on the hub and the disc are clean from dirt and dust. Tip - The disc might sit a little loose and out of alignment use a couple of wheel nuts to hold it in place, or in my case I fitted my space at this point and tightened the bolts up to hand tight.

-Note if the dust shield is fouling on the disc just gently bend it out of the way.

15. Depending on how you got your caliper, it may have pads already installed if this the cased make sure the pistons are retracted far enough to clear the disc, If not use a g-clamp and some wood to protect the caliper and pad to retract the pistons.

16. Fit the caliper in position and use one bolt to hold the caliper in position. Hand tight will be fine for this

17. Apply some thread lock to the other bolt, doesn’t need much a patch about the size of a pea is enough. The thread lock should also be applied about 4 or 5 thread away from the end of the bolt. Fit bolt and tighten. Standard torque for a grade 9T (marked 9) is 18kgm.

18. Repeat step 17 for the bolt that you installed in step 16.

19. Now loosen the banjo bolt enough to the brake hose find a natural position, hold the hose in place and retighten bolt. Torque for this is 1.7 – 2kgm. Wipe any leaked fluid off as it can damage the coating on the caliper.

20. Repeat for the other side of the car.

21. Both brake calipers should now be installed and ready for bleeding. Remember to check fluid level and top up before bleeding.

22. Bleed brakes, I found that this need to be done again after a couple of days once the brakes had settled in.

23. Refit wheels, remember to torque spacer bolts first (if fitted).

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24. Remove axle stands and lower car to ground.

25. Admire you new brakes.