Copyright©2013byTaylorBoetticherandToponiaMiller

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Boetticher,Taylor.

Inthecharcuterie:theFattedCalf’sguidetomakingsausage,salumi,pates,roasts,confits,andother

meatygoods/TaylorBoetticherandToponiaMiller;photographybyAlexFarnum.

—Firstedition.

pagescm

1.Meat—Preservation.2.Sausages.3.Cooking(Sausages)4.Cooking(Meat)

I.Miller,Toponia.II.Title.

TX612.M4B642013

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2013011202

eBookISBN:978-1-60774344-6

HardcoverISBN:978-1-60774-343-9

FoodandpropstylingbyChristineWolheim

v3.1

CONTENTS

Introduction

1 THECHARCUTIER’SPANTRY

FiveSpiceHerbesdeProvencePreservedMeyerLemonsDriedFruitinBrandyTheCharcutier’sWildMushroomDuxellesFunghiSott’olio

2 PROVISIONINGTHELARDER

TruffledCremadiLardoFlakyLeafLardBiscuitsRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetablesBasicRichBrothBasicRichRoastedBrothPorkandDuckNoodleSoupBrothCrespelleandChanterelleMushroomsinGameBirdBrothCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinoSausageConfitWholeDuckConfit

ClassicCassoulet

3 INTHEBUTCHERSHOP

GingeryBraisedDuckLegsChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniChicken-FriedQuailRabbitCacciatoreFive-SpiceBabyBackRibsChermoula-MarinatedPorkChopsPorkBollitoMistoFennel-DustedPorkShoulderSteaksTonnodiMaialePigHeadPozolePickledPorkTonguesLambRibChopswithRaselHanoutGoatShoulderBirriaPeposoRibEyeforTwoCarneCrudaRareRoastBeef

4 SKEWERED,ROLLED,TIED&STUFFED

PorkBrochetteswithHerbesdeProvenceHarissa-MarinatedLambKebabsMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondsPancetta-WrappedPorkTenderloinPorkCountryRibwithSherry,Garlic,Thyme,andPimentónRabbitPorchettaBrasatoalMidoloTheCubanFig-and-SausageStuffedQuail

PorkShoulderPotRoastStuffedwithGarlic,Greens,andWalnutsWildMushroom–StuffedPorkRibRoastDuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHazelnuts

5 SAUSAGE,SALAMI&THEIRCOUSINS

TheUglyBurgerDuckandLemongrassSausagePattiesLambandHerbMeatballsOaxacan-StyleChorizoBockwurstBloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandCognacCotechinoBelgianBeerSausageKolbászHotLinksCacciatoriniSaucisseSecauxHerbesdeProvencePepperoniSbriciolona

6 PÂTÉS:POTTEDMEATS,TERRINES&LOAVES

RabbitRillettesCiccioliOxtailTerrineHeadcheeseMeatLoafForager’sTerrineSpicedLambTerrineDuckTerrinewithBrandiedPrunesVealandChickenGalantineCouFarci

DuckLiverMoussewithArmagnacCreamFoieGrasTerrinewithMadeiraGeléeFoieGrasTorchonwithPortandQuatreÉpices

7 BRINED,CURED&SMOKED

All-PurposePoultryBrineGarlicBrineCider-BrinedPorkPorterhouseChopsSmokedHamHocksBraisedHamHocksPicnicHamCroqueMonsieurChoucrouteGarniCornedBeefBrisketPancettaArrotolataBresaolaGuancialeBrownSugar–CuredBaconPastramiPulledPork

8 ACCOUTREMENTS

BreadandButterPicklesClassicCucumberDillsPickledRedOnionRingsLoulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruitsMarinatedOlivesRootVegetableChowchowTraditionalSauerkrautCherryMostardaGreenTomatoChutney

BlackCoffeeandBourbonBarbecueSauceChileTomatoSauceHorseradishSalsaVerdeCéleriRémouladeSimpleBeansCowboyBeansFagioliall’Uccelletto

ButcherShopLingoSourcesAcknowledgmentsMeasurementConversionChartsAbouttheAuthorsIndex

INTRODUCTION:COMEONIN

WHENYOUFIRSTwalkthroughthedoorsofthecharcuterie,itfeelsasifyou’veenteredanenchantedworldofmeatywonders.Thearomaofcrispy-skinnedporkroastfillstheshop,invitingyoutotryabite.Ourcasesarefilledwithpâtés,salumi,sausages,roasts,andterrines—andwhenthemeatcountercrewoffersyouasliceofthefennel-fleckedsbriciolonaandapieceofheadcheese,it’shardtosayno.Walkbackintoourkitchenandyou’llsmellspicestoasting,bonesroasting,andbrothssimmering.Someoneischurningoutcoilsoffreshsausagefromthehand-crankedstuffer,andsomeoneelseishanginghuge,freshly-casedcotechinoonhooksforfermentation.We’rehand-shreddingaveritablevatofduckrillettes,seasoningitwithfreshlychoppedthyme,thenpackingitintojarsandsealingeachwithacreamylayerofduckfat.Baconhasjustfinishedinthesmoker!Goaheadandtearahotpieceofftheendoftheglisteningslab.Peerintoourcuringroomwhererowuponrowofsalami,guanciale,andpancettahangquietly,patiently,enrobedinadelicatesnowybloomofmold.Ifyouarecuriousandwanttoknowhowallofthisworks—ifahungerstirs

insideofyouandyoufeelsomehowstrangelyathome—thenyouareintherightplace.WelcometotheFattedCalfCharcuterie.Acharcuterieisabitofastrangebusiness,andtheFattedCalfisanunusual

charcuterie.Morethanjustabutchershop,weoffermeatygoodsandservicesthatarevariedandunique.Pickoutaduckoraslabofribsandwe’llcookitupforyou.Wantustowrapandseasonyourporktenderloin?Noproblem.CravingadishyouateatalittleroadsiderestaurantinBurgundyandneedwadsoflacycaulfatandporkjowltorecreateit?Wehaveithere.AttheFattedCalf,webutcherwholehogs,goats,andlamb.Wesellchicken,duck,rabbit,andquail.Wemakeourownsausage,pâtés,terrines,andpottedmeats.Wecuresalumi,smokepastrami,androastporchetta.Wethinkabout,talkabout,andshareour

loveofgoodmeatfromthemomentweopenuntilwecloseeachday.Wealsoteachbutcheryandcharcuterie-makingclassesbecausewewanttopassontheknowledgewe’veacquiredtoyou.Mostpeopleassociate“charcuterie”withatriptoParisoradeliciousplatter

ofmeatsatarestaurant.Butrealcharcuteriegoeswellbeyondthat.Thecharcutiertransformsthebountyofthefarmandforestintoadelicioussubsetofcuisine,whichrangesfromsausagesandhamstostuffedgamebirdsandelaborateroasts.Atitsmostbasiclevel,charcuterieisthetechniqueofseasoning,processing,andpreservingmeat.Butitisalsoawayofpreservingfoodculturesandtraditions,andenrichingourdailyhabitofbreakingbread.Itisaholisticapproachtocookingandeatingmeatandarewarding,hands-onwaytoconnectwithourfood.AttheFattedCalf,charcuterieisawayoflife—anapproachtocookingandeatingthatcelebratesthepleasuresofthetable.“Charcuterie”canbeasucculentconfitducklegatopabedofcrispgreens,arichandmeatystewonacoldwinter’snight,orapicnicblanketspreadintheshadeofanoldtree,ladenwithhalf-emptycrocksofpâté,disheswithpickledvegetables,andslicesoffragrantsalami.Foraslongaspeoplehaveneededtopreservetheirmeat,charcuteriehas

existedinoneformoranother.However,itwastheRomans(sticklersforrulesthattheywere)whofirstcodifiedthelawsofmeatpreservation.CharcuteriebegantoblossominearnestinFranceduringtheMiddleAges,whenanofficialguildsystemwasputinplacetoregulatetheproductionofprocessedmeatproducts.Thisgavebirthtothedelicatessen-likeshops,alsoknownascharcuteries,wheretheproductsweresold.Overtime,manyofthetechniquesfirstdevelopedinFranceandItaly(suchas

saltinghamsforprosciuttiandprocessingmeatintoloavesorterrines)spreadtotheneighboringcountriesofGermany,Spain,andbeyond.Localpredilectionsandingredientavailabilityproducedcountlessregionalcharcuteriespecialties,includingspeck,JamónSerrano,andmany,manymore.InbothEuropeandtheAmericas,theindustrialrevolutionhastenedthecharcuterieboom:swarmsofpeopleleftthefarmtoworkinurbanfactories,andthuslostaccesstoproperkitchensandfreshmeatproducts.Thecharcuterieordelicatessenbecameanecessity,aplacewhereyoucouldbuythemakingsofasimplemealwithminimaleffort.Bytheturnofthetwentiethcentury,inmajorcitieslikeMilan,Paris,orNewYork,youcouldn’tthrowastonewithouthittingasalumeria,charcuterie,ordeli.Thenalongcamesuburbs,thesupermarket,andtheriseofindustrial

agriculture.Productionmovedawayfromsmall,localshopsandintobiggerandbiggermeatprocessingplants.Decades-orcenturies-oldrecipesweredumbeddownforefficiency’ssake,qualitywassacrificedforquantity,andmanyregionalspecialtieswerelostorforgotten.Meatscamepresliced,prepackaged,andloadedwithunhealthypreservatives.EveninEurope,charcuterie’sbirthplace,thetraditionsstartedfading.Bythetimewevisitedinthe1990sandearly2000s,therewerehardlyanyyoungpeoplelearningthetrade;charcuteriesandsalumeriaswererunbyahandfulofpeoplefromtheoldergeneration.Anempirewithnoheir.WhenwestartedtheFattedCalfinasubletkitcheninSanFrancisco’s

Dogpatchneighborhoodin2003,wehadonlyaninklingofwhatwewantedtoachieve.Whatwedidknowwehadgleanedfromdatedtextsandfromourmeatmentorsinprofessionalkitchensandbutchershops.Weknewthatwewantedtohonorthetraditionsofthecraftbutinfusethemwithourownquirkysensibilities.Weborrowedfromtheoldwaysbutweren’tshyaboutincorporatingthenew.Wesourcedthebestmeatwecouldfind,alwaysfromsmallfamilyfarmsthatusedhumaneandsustainablemethods.Weusedlocallygrownproduceandforagedmushrooms,andtheproductswemadeandsoldfollowedarhythmofseasonality.Wewerealsostayinguplate,linkingsausageandloadingterrineswellinto

theevening.Wedidalotofdishes,cursedourbeat-upoldmachinery,andsufferedafewheartbreakingdisappointments.Inthebeginning,wewerelikemeatgypsies,hawkingourwaresoutofcoolersatBayAreafarmers’markets,huddledunderourtentwhilegustsofwindsentfreezingJanuaryrainontoourneatlyarrangedsalamiandterrines.Butinspiteoftheweather,peoplecameandtriedourwildmushroomterrine,Toulousesausage,andsaucisson.Andthenthefollowingweek,theycameback.Theytoldtheirfriendsaboutus,andtheFattedCalfgrew.WhenourlittlekitcheninSanFranciscocouldnolongercontainus,wemovedtonewdigsinNapa.Afewyearslater,weopenedasecondlocationinSanFrancisco’sHayesValleyneighborhood.Todaythecraftofcharcuterieisexperiencingarevival.Whileitstartedwith

chefsandahandfulofartisanalproducers,nowithaspracticallygonemainstream,thankstoanenlightenedmarketofconsumerswhoarecuriousabouttheoriginsoftheirfoodandhiptothefactthatindustrialagricultureandmass-producedmeatproductsarenotgoodfortheplanetorthepopulation.Weareproudtobeapartofthismovementandwewantyoutojoinus.Ourbook,IntheCharcuterie,hassomethingforeveryone,whetheryou’rea

skepticalex-vegan,scimitar-wieldingnovice,orseasonedoldpro.Whenyouwalkintoabutcher’sshopandspyaporkshoulderinthecase,wewantyoutoseemorethanjustahunkofmeat.Wewantyoutoseeallofthepossibilitiesthattheporkshoulderhastooffer—fromshoulderchopsandstuffedroaststopicnichamsandsalami.Wewantyou,knifeinhand,toexperiencewhatitisliketobreakawholeanimalintoitsparts.Wewanttosharewithyounotonlytheknowledgeofbutcheringandcookingwehaveaccumulatedthroughourwork,butalsotherespectwehavefortherawingredients,thesatisfactionwederivefromworkinginthekitchen,andthepleasureofsittingatthetablewithfriendsandfamilytoeatwhatyouhavecreated.Wewantpeopletobetterunderstandtheprocessesofcharcuteriebyparticipatinginit.Soweinviteyoutoslipintoourgreasyclogsforjustalittlewhile.Inthisbook,we’llaskyoutoplungeyourhandsintoafreshlygroundfarcetomakesausage,inhaletheintenseperfumeofaspiceblend,confidentlycarvearoast,andmore.Andattheend,yougettoenjoythedeliciousresultsofyourlaborandpassion.Wecookalot,notjustinthecharcuteriebutathomeaswell.Themethods

andrecipesinthisbookarebasedonourprofessionalexperienceofworkinginacharcuterieforroughlyadecade—buttheyarealsowrittenwiththehomecookinmind.Quiteafewoftherecipesandmethodspresentedherearesimpletomaster,andwehopethatthey’lledgetheirwayintoyourculinaryrepertoirewithease.Othersaremorechallenging,multisteppedprocessesthatrequireseveraldaysorevenweeks.Charcuterieisadisciplinethatrequirespatience.Allowingplentyoftimeand

spaceisthekeytosuccessfulsmoking,curing,andterrine-orsausage-making.Thegratificationisfarfromimmediate,andmayseemout-of-syncwithourmodernwayoflife.Butwebelievethatthereisaplaceforthesemeatymeditations:theycanteachustruthsabouthistory,community,sustainability,andself-sufficiency.WithIntheCharcuterie,wewantyoutotakethesamepleasurefrombutchering,cooking,andpreservingyourmeatasyoudosavoringitatthetable.

O

1

THECHARCUTIER’SPANTRY

ntheshelvesoftheFattedCalfcharcuterie,you’llfindbucketsbrimmingwithsaltandstackedcontainerscrammedwithwholespices.Tubsofgarlic,onions,andshallotsarestoredunderneathtraysofdryinglavender,thyme,andoregano.Basketsofchanterellesandbinsofherbsandcitrusarekeptinthecooler.Stashesofdriedapricotsandporcinisitalongsidejarsofdriedárbolsandcayennes.Meatmakesupthecoreofthecharcuterie,butourpantryprovidesuswithapaletteofflavorswithwhichtowork.Stockingthecharcutier’spantryisfairlysimple.Mostoftheitemsyouwill

needarecommonplaceoreasilyobtainable.Manymayalreadybeinyourpantry.Buttheattentiontodetailpaidtothesestaplesisessential.Knowingwhichsaltstouseforeachpurposeiscrucial.Understandinghowtoextractthemostflavorfromyourspicesiskey.LearningtoprepareherbesdeProvence,mushroomduxelles,andbrandiedfruitsaddsbreadthtoyourrepertoire.Yourwell-provisionedpantrywillendowyouwiththeflexibilitytotakeasimpleporkshoulderandturnitintoasucculentseasonedroast,Toulouse-stylesausages,spicyciccioli,cacciatorinisalami,ordozensofotherpreparationsinthesepages.

Salt

Atitsmostbasic,charcuteriecanbereducedtotwoelements:meatandsalt,inanendlessvarietyofcombinationsandmethods,andwithachangingcastofsupportingcharacters.Saltisbothseasoningandpreservative.Differenttypesofseasaltsandcuringsaltsservespecificpurposesinthecharcuterie,anddiscerninghoweachaffectsthetaste,texture,andlongevityofmeatisavaluableskill.

SeasoningwithSaltAsprinkleofsaltenhancesthetasteofthefoodsweeatbytriggeringreceptorsinourpalatethatallowustoperceivenotonlysaltinessbutalsothesubtlenuancesofflavor.Whenpracticedwiththoughtfulnessandconfidence,saltingcreatesfoodswithfuller,sharperflavors,andthusdramaticallyincreasesthepleasureofdining.Unrefinedseasaltisthemostnaturaltypeofsaltavailableandistheonlytype

weuseinthecharcuterieforseasoning.Tablesaltsandevenmanykoshersaltscontainadditivesorothersubstancestomakethempourmoreeasilyortoincreasetheirnutritivevalue.Theseadditives,suchasiodine,fluoride,andaluminum,eveninminutequantities,cancauseanunpleasantchemicaltaste.Avarietyofgood-qualityseasaltsisavailableinarangeofcolorsandtextures,eachwithitsownuniqueminerality,areflectionofitsoriginsandthetechniquesusedtoharvestit.Thethreetypesthatwealwayshaveonhandinourpantryarefineseasalt,coarseseasalt,andfleurdesel.

Fineseasaltisthesaltweusemorethananyotherforallofoureverydayseasoning.Whetherwearemakingaquickbrine,rubbingaslabofribs,preparingfreshsausage,saltingducklegsforconfit,preservinglemons,orpicklingcucumbers,afinelygrainedseasaltisourgo-tosalt.Itdispersesfasterandmoreevenlythanlarger-grainedsalt,makingitmorepracticalformostapplications.Nearlyalloftherecipesinthisbookcallforfineseasalt.Ifyouareaccustomedtoseasoningwithkoshersalt,whichtypicallyhasalargergrain,youwilllikelyrequireasmallerquantitywhenseasoning.Ifyouareaccustomedtousingatypicaltablesalt,whichhasaslightlysmallergrainandcontainsahostofstronglyflavoredadditives,youmayfindyouneedabitmoreseasalt.Evenamongfineseasalts,theflavorandsalinitycanvary.ThefineseasaltthatweuseinthecharcuterieisGiusto’s(seeSources),harvestedlocallyfromSanFranciscoBay.

Coarseseasalt,suchasthechunkysaltfromTrapani,Sicily,isprizedforitstexture.Thelargegranulesareextremelyslowtomeltorblendwithfoods,evenwhenexposedtoheat,allowingthemtoprovidenotonlyanintenseflavorbutalsoacrunchytexturetothecrustonathickcutofmeatoraroast.Inthecharcuterie,weoftenrubcoarseseasaltonskin-onporkroasts,suchasTheCuban,toproduceirresistiblycrispycrackling.

Fleurdeselisthedelicatehand-harvestedsaltcollectedfromthetoplayerofsaltpans(largepondsofbrinyseawaterthatdryduetonaturalevaporation,leavingbehindonlysalt).TraditionalFrenchfleurdeselfromthecoastalwatersof

GuérandeorCamarguehasaflaky,brittletextureandasubtleflavor.(EnglishMaldonsaltisanotherniceoption.)Fleurdeselisgenerallyconsidereda“finishing”salt,addedtofoodsjustbeforeserving,andshouldyoufindacookedsteakorchopinneedofalittleseasoning,fleurdeselisagoodchoice.Inthecharcuterie,wepreferfleurdeselforseasoningfoiegras.

WhenandHowtoSeasonThroughoutthisbookyouwillfindnumerousspecificinstructionsonwhentoseason,howtoseason,andhowmuchtoseason.Thequestionsofhowmuchandwhenareveryimportant,especiallyforconfitsandcuredmeats,sopayattentiontospecificmeat-to-saltratiosandtimeperiodsformarinatingorbrining.Othertimesseasoningisalittlemoresubjective.Ingeneral,though,meatshouldbeseasonedmoreliberallyandforlongerperiodsthanotherfoods.Thethickerthecut,themoresaltyouwilluse,andthelongertheperiodofpreseasoningrequired.Fattiercutsormeatontheboneshouldbeseasonedmoreandforalongertimethanleanerorbonelesscuts.

NITRATES,NITRITES,ANDNITRATE-FREE

Despitethefactthattheyareanextremelyeffectivemeatpreservative,nitrateandtheresultingnitritehavegottenaprettybadrapinrecentyears,triggeringarashofnitrate-freehotdogs,salami,andbaconatthemeatmarket.Thenitratescarebeganintheearly1970swithamuch-publicizedstudythatimplicatedalinkbetweennitratesandcancer.Subsequentstudiesdidnotsupporttheinitialconclusion.Regardless,thenotionthatnitratescausecancerlodgedinthepublic’smindandthedemandfornitrate-freeproductswithasimilarlookandtastetothosewithnitratespromptedproducerstoseekanalternative.Themostpopularsubstitutefortraditionalsodiumnitrateisceleryjuice,which,incidentally,containsanabundanceofsodiumnitratethatconvertstosodiumnitritejustasthetraditional

preservativedoes.Butceleryjuiceallowsproducerstoclaimthattheirproductshave“noaddednitrates,”are“organicallycured,”orare“nitrate-free.”Theseclaimsareessentiallyfraudulent,asso-callednaturallycuredmeatssometimescontainmorethantwiceasmuchsodiumnitrateastraditionallycuredproducts.

SaltingforPreservationSaltinitsmanyformshasbeenusedtopreservefoodsforthousandsofyears.Itworksbycreatingahostileenvironmentforcertainmicroorganisms:osmosisdehydratesbacterialcells,therebyinhibitingthebacterialgrowththatcancausespoilage.Sauerkrautisagreatexampleofthisprocess.Seasaltismassagedintofreshlycutcabbage,whichbreaksdownthecellwallsandextractsthemoistureinside,creatinganaturalbrinethatcanpreservethecabbageformonths.Differentsaltsproducevaryingresultsofpreservation.Althoughseasaltcan

beaneffectivepreservativeformanyfoods,itsusefulnessonitsownasameatpreservativeislimited.Alightdustingofitmightextendtheshelflifeofthemeatforafewdaysbutnotindefinitely.Largeamountscanpreservemeatforlongerperiodsbutcanalsomakeitunpalatable.Amoreeffectivepreservativeissodiumnitrate,anaturallyoccurringmineralthatispresentinmanyplantsandorganisms.Virtuallyeverythingthatgrowsinthegrounddrawssodiumnitratefromthesoil,includingvegetablessuchascarrotsandcelery.Thebacteriathatcausespoilageneedmoisture,oxygen,andfoodtolive.Inadditiontodrawingoutmoistureasothersaltsdo,sodiumnitrate,whichconvertstosodiumnitriteduringthecuringprocess,actsasanextremelyeffectiveantimicrobialandantioxidant.Itthuspreventsthegrowthofmostharmfulbacteria,includingClostridiumbotulinum,whichcancausedeadlybotulism.Therearetwotypesofcuringsaltcommonlyusedforpreservingmeats,whichcontaineithersodiumnitriteoracombinationofsodiumnitrateandnitrite.Thesearegenerallyreferredtoascuringsaltno.1andcuringsaltno.2.

Curingsaltno.1,alsoknownasPraguepowderno.1andbyvariousbrandnames,includingPinkTintedCureNo.1,SelRoseNo.1,DQNo.1,ModernCureNo.1,andInstaCureNo.1,ispink(tosaveitfrombeingaccidentallymistakenfortablesalt)andis6.25percentsodiumnitriteand93.75percentsodiumchloride(salt).Itisusedtopreservecookedorsmokedsausage,salami,andmeatssuchasbaconandsmokedham.

Curingsaltno.2,alsoknownasPraguepowderno.2andbythevariousbrandnamesnotedaboveforcuringsaltno.1,contains6.25percentsodiumnitrite,asmallerpercentageofsodiumnitrate,andthebalanceissodiumchloride.Dependingonthebrand,itmaybeeitherpinkorwhite.Itisspecificallyformulatedfordrycuringsuchproductsassalamithatwillnotbecookedorsmoked.Itworksoveralongerperiodoftimethancuringsaltno.1,withthesodiumnitratebreakingdowntosodiumnitriteandthentonitricoxide,whichsetsthecolorandensuresthemeatissafelycured.

CHARCUTIER’SESSENTIALSPICES

AllspiceberriesAniseedsCardamomCayennechilesCeleryseedsChileflakesCinnamonClovesCorianderseedsCuminseedsFennelpollenFennelseedsFenugreekGingerJuniperberriesMaceMustardseeds(yellow)NutmegPaprika(Hungarian)Paprikaorpimentón(SpanishsmokedPaprika;comesinsweet,medium-hot,andhotvarieties)Paprikaorpimentón(mildunsmoked;alsoknownas“Spanishpaprika”)Pepper(Aleppo)Peppercorns(black)Peppercorns(white)Peppercorns(Sichuan)Pimentd’EspeletteRaselhanoutStaranise

Turmeric

SpiceKitforLambandHerbMeatballs

Spices

Spices—thepods,roots,bark,andseedsofavarietyofplants—providearangeanddepthofflavorthatcanbringasenseofdramatoyoureverydaycooking.Qualitywholespices,fromtheubiquitousblackpeppercorntotheenticinglyperfumedstaranise,arekeycomponentsoftherecipesinthisbook.Spiceblendssuchasquatreépices(fourspices)provideacertainjenesaisquoito

confitsandrillettes.Raselhanout,acomplexNorthAfricanblend,impartsglamourtoordinarylambchops.Havingagoodselectionoffreshspicesinyourcharcuteriepantryisalsoessential.Everysausage,salami,andterrinederivesitsdistinctiveflavorfromthecarefullyorchestratedcombinationofspices.

PurchasingandStoringSpicesCarefullysourceandstoreyourspicestoenjoytheirmaximumbenefits.Althoughmostspicesaredried,theirpotencyandaromafadeovertime.Someparticularlyoilyspices,suchasfennelandanise,canbecomebitterorrancid.Toguaranteefreshness,purchasespicesinbulk,directlyfromaspicemerchantifpossible.Skipthespiceaisleatthesupermarket.Thosespicesareoftenstaleandmanycontainadditivessuchaswheatflourthatproducersarenotrequiredtolistonthelabel.Evenifyourarealacksagoodspicemerchant,manynowsellonline.Ethnicgrocerieswithahighturnoverofstockareagoodalternative,aswell.Purchasewholespiceswheneverpossibleandinquantitiesthatyoucanreasonablyusewithinayear,tokeeptheselectioninyourpantryfresh.Youmighteasilyuse1pound(450g)ofblackpeppercornswithin12months,butmoremodestamountsofnutmegoraniseeds,whichshouldbepurchasedinsmallerquantities.Heat,light,humidity,andexposuretoaircanalldegradethequalityofyour

spices.Storespicesinairtightcontainersawayfromdirectsunlightandtheheatofyourstove.Iflabelingthecontainerwiththepurchasedateseemslikeabitmuch,followthisrule:ifyoucannotrecallwhenyoupurchasedaspice,itisprobablytimetodiscarditandstartfresh.

FIVESPICE

ThisrecipeshouldrightlybecalledSixSpice,sincesixisthenumberofspicesitcontains(thoughitisnotuncommonforthisAsianspiceblendtocontainmoreorfewerthanthefiveofitsname).Onespicytheorypositsthatthefiverefersnottothenumberofingredientsbuttothenumberoftastes(sweet,sour,bitter,savory,andsalty)thatyouexperiencewhenyoueatit.Whateveritsetymology,thisslightlyexotic,powerfullyalluringblendisagreatmatchforpork,duck,andevenfattiercutsoflamb.Keepasmalljaronhandtospiceupamarinade,rubonarackofribs,orseasonabraiseorstew.MAKESABOUT⅓CUP(35G)

8staranisepods2teaspoonsSichuanorblackpeppercorns1cinnamonstick1tablespoonfennelseeds½teaspoonwholecloves1driedcayennechile,stemmedbutnotseeded

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthestaranise,peppercorns,cinnamonstick,fennelseeds,andcloves

onabakingsheet.Toastintheovenuntilfragrant,about5minutes.Allowtocooltoroomtemperature.Inaspicegrinder,combinethecooledspicesandthechileandgrinduntil

reducedtoafinepowder.Transfertoatightlycappedjarorotherairtightcontainerandstoreinacool,darkplace.Usetheblendwithin3months,asitwillloseitspotencyovertime.

ToastingandGrindingSpicesMostwholespices,evenblackpeppercornsandcinnamonsticks,benefitfromalighttoastingtoreleasetheiressentialoilsandintensifytheirflavors.Toastingcanbedoneonthestovetopinadryheavyskilletoverlowheatoronabakingsheetina325°F(165°C)oven.Toastthespicesforroughly5minutes,untiltheygiveoffapungentaroma.Alwaysallowspicestocooltoroomtemperaturebeforegrinding.Youcangrindthespicesbyhandusingamortarandpestleorinanelectric

spiceorcoffeegrinder.Amortarandpestleareidealforgrindingsmallamountsofspicesorforproducinggroundspiceswithacoarser,morerustictexture.However,ifyouaregrindinglargeamountsorneedfinelygroundspicesforasausageorsalamirecipe,anelectricgrinderworksbest.Itiswisetoinvestinagrinderthatwillbeusedonlyforspices,toavoidsippingacupofcumin-scentedcoffee.

GrowingandForagingSpicesSpicesoftenseemexotic,animportfromafarawayland.Althoughmanyspicesrequireahot,tropicalclimatetothrive,thereareplentyofspicesthatyoucangroworforageinyourownbackyard.Coriander,fenugreek,celery,andmustardyieldbothgreen,leafyherbsanddriedseeds.Growinganddryingyourownchilescaneasilyprovideyouwithanannualsupplyofcayenneandpaprika.Inmanyplaces,fennelpollenandfennelseedscanbewildharvested.Whentheyellowfennelflowersbloom,theirpollenrestsatoptheircrownsandcanbegentlyshakenintoabag.Ifyouhaveanabundanceoffennelflowers,cutsomeofthemandhangthemoverabakingsheettocollectthepollenthatdropsastheydry.Pollinatedflowersleftontheplantwillproduceawealthoffennelseedsthatcanbeharvestedanddried,aswell.

Dryingfennelpollen

HerbsandAlliums

Wekeepafewhorsetroughsplantedwithsage,thyme,tarragon,chives,rosemary,andoreganooutsidetheentrancetotheFattedCalfshopinNapa.Passersbyfrequentlypauseandtouchthefeatheryfloweringtopsofparsley,crushafewleavesoflemonthymebetweentheirfingers,orpluckaleafortwoofdelicatemarjoramandinhale.Bothfreshanddriedherbsandalliums(garlic,

onions,shallots,leeks,chives)areusedintheFattedCalfkitchenforavarietyofeffects.Sageandthymearecomfortingandfamilial.Aromaticblends,suchaslavender-scentedherbesdeProvence,cantransportyoutoaverdanthillsideinFrance’ssunnysouth.Pungentgarlicandoreganoaddsavorydepth.Herbsandalliumsbreathelifeintoastandardrecipeandprovideanuancedcounterpointtorich,fattyflavors.

FreshandDriedHerbsBothfreshanddriedherbsplayanimportantroleinthecharcuterie.Freshherbsinamarinadeorsauceinfusemeatswithbrightflavors.Theyprovideanenticinggarnishforfreshsausagesandpâtésandaddthevibrantflavorsofthegardenandthearomaofthewoodsandfieldtoyourmeatydishes.Butdriedherbsaresometimesfavored;theycanbepulverizedinaspicegrinderandmoreeasilydispersedthroughoutasausageorterrine.Ingeneral,drycuredmeatssuchassalamicallfordriedherbs.Freshherbswouldnotsurvivethedryingandagingprocessintactandwouldaddmoisturewhereitisunwanted.Weneverpurchasedriedherbs,preferringtodryourownthroughouttheyear,

apracticethatprovidesuswithaconstantsupplyofpungent,organicfreshlydriedherbs.Dryingherbssuchasbay,oregano,rosemary,savory,sage,andthymeisextremelysimpleandwellworththeeffort.Ifyouareharvestingyourownherbs,besuretocutoffthetopsoftheplantsbeforetheyflower.Ifyouarepurchasingherbs,setasidethedesiredquantityfordryingwhiletheherbsarestillfreshandsprightly.Removeanyblemishedoryellowedleaves.Setacoolingrackatopabakingsheetandlaythesprigsinanuncrowdedlayerontherack.Placeinadry,well-ventilatedlocationawayfromdirectlightfor10to14days,untildry.Whentheherbsarecrumblyandthestemssnapreadilywhenbent,theleavesareready.Removetheleavesfromthestemsandstoretheminatightlycappedglassjarorotherairtightcontainerinacool,dark,dryspotforupto6months.

AlliumsGarlic,onions,shallots,leeks,andgreenonionsarevitaltocharcuterie.Mostrecipesareenhancedbytheirpungency.Weusealliumsintheirfresh,orgreen-topped,stateinthespringanddriedthroughouttheyear.Inourwild,modernworld,itissometimeseasytoforgetthatthesepantrystaplesareaseasonalcrop.Newgarlictastesverydifferentfromsproutinggarlic.Therearealsohugevariationsinvarietals.Althoughtherecipesinthisbooksuggestspecific

amounts,trustyourtongue.Itisnotuncommonforustoaddalittlemoreorusealittlelessdependingonthepotencyofaparticularallium.Whenpurchasingfreshalliums,lookforlivelygreentopsandsturdy,blemish-freerootends.Driedalliumsshouldbefirmwithnovisiblegreensprouts(aclearindicatorthattheyareoverthehill).

HerbesdeProvence

HERBESDEPROVENCE

HerbesdeProvenceisthenamegiventoablendofherbscommonlyusedinthesouthofFrance.Whichherbsareusedcanvaryslightly,buttheyarealwaysdried.Inthecharcuterie,weusethismixtureinmarinades,asarubforgrilledandroastedmeats,andasaseasoningblendforsausageandsalami.Forgetthefancy,overpricedjaratthegourmetshop.Thebestblendis

theoneyoumakeyourselfinsmallbatchesusingyourowndriedherbs.Itcanbeassembledinjustafewminutesandkeepswellformonths.Ifyouhaveanabundanceofdriedherbs,thisblendmakesalovelygift.MAKESABOUT½CUP(25G)

6driedbayleaves,crumbled2tablespoonsdriedrosemaryleaves2tablespoonsdriedthymeleaves2tablespoonsdriedoreganoleaves2teaspoonscrumbleddriedlavenderbuds(Englishoranotherculinaryvariety)

Inasmallbowl,combinethebay,rosemary,thyme,oregano,andlavenderandmixwell.Transfertoatightlycappedjarorotherairtightcontainerandstoreinacool,darkplace.Usetheblendwithin3to4months,asitwillloseitspotencyovertime.Touse,pulverizetheherbsinamortarwithapestle,ifyoupreferacoarser

texture,orinaspicegrinderforafinelytexturedblend.

OtherIndispensableStaples:Fruits,Roots,andMushrooms

Stockpilesofdriedfruits,vatsofsaltedlemonsandbinsoffragrantmandarins,

jarsofbrandiedcurrantsandofprunes,knobsofgnarlygingerandrough-hewnrootsofpungenthorseradish,basketsofearthyfreshmushroomsandcanistersofdriedporciniandmorelsstoredafterthecloseoftheirbriefseasons—allofthemhaveanimportantplaceinthecharcutier’spantry.Theseindispensablestaplesaddflavor—bothboldandsubtle—andtexturetoarangeofmeatydishes.Theygivethecharcutiertheflexibilitytoknockoutaquickmarinade,rustleupastuffing,orwhisktogetherasimplesaucewithwhatisonhand.

FruitsAllyearlong,thenaturalsweetnessandacidityoffruitsbringbalancetosalty,savorymeatsintheformofstuffings,garnitures,oraccompaniments.Winteristhetimeofcitrusanddriedfruits.Theintenselyperfumedzestoflemonsandorangesbrightensmarinades,freshanddriedsausages,pâtés,andterrines.Thinlyslicedmandarinsandoilyblackolivesfindtheirwayinsideporkroasts.AvariationonthetraditionalsalsaverdemadewithpreservedMeyerlemonandchileflakescomplementsbraisedandroastedmeat.Driedcurrantssweetencrépinettes.Plumpedprunesadornaduckterrine,anddriedfigsarepoachedinredwineorpickledfornibblingalongsidesalami.Thelongcoldspellisbrokeninspringwiththearrivalofcherries,the

season’sfirststonefruit,whichmakeanexcellentfruitmostarda.Theheatoflatespringandofsummerbringsonmorestonefruits—apricots,peaches,nectarines,plums—forchutneys.Lateintheseason,figsappear,afavoriteforstuffingquail.Asautumnnightsgrowcoolerandlonger,pears,quinces,andapplesfillthepantrywiththeirhoneyedaroma.Aporkroastfilledwithroastedapples,walnuts,andsagespeaksoftheseason.So,too,dopoachedpearsfoldedintoasaladofbaconandbittergreens,andfragrant,astringentquincesstirredintoarichlambstew.Eachseason’sofferingsareanticipated,theirusefulnessappreciatedinthekitchenandtheirflavorsavoredatthetable.

PreservedMeyerLemons

PRESERVEDMEYERLEMONS

Inthewinter,whenMeyerlemonsripen,folksshowupatthecharcuteriewithboxesandbagsfullofthesefragrantbeauties.AlthoughthearomaoffreshlypickedMeyersisheavenly,theflavorcanbestrong—sometimesdescribedasreminiscentoffurniturepolish—sostrongthatitcanoverpowerevenheartymeatdishes.Butsaltandtimehavetheabilitytotameboththeflavorandtextureoftheselemons,renderingthemsuppleandpleasinglyaromatic.PreservingMeyerlemonsisnotanexactscience.Thisrecipewill

makeasmanylemonsasyouhappentohave.Useasfeworasmanyofthespicesasyoulike,oromitthemaltogetherforastraightforwardversion.Thetenderskinofthepreservedlemonscanbechoppedandusedinsauces,braises,stuffings,andasagarnishforcrépinettes.Thepulpisanexcellentadditiontomarinades.

MeyerlemonsFineseasaltCorianderseedsCinnamonsticksWholeclovesPeppercornsDriedbayleavesFreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Chooseaglassjarorceramiccrocklargeenoughtoaccommodateyourlemons.Cuteachlemonlengthwisefromthetiptowardthestemendintoquarters,

pausing1inch(2.5cm)beforethestemend,sothatthequartersremainattached.Holdingthelemonoverabowltocatchanyjuiceandsalt,openthelemonlikeaflower.Fillitsinteriorwithathickcoatingofsalt,thengentlypressthequartersbacktogether.Fillthebottomofthejarorcrockwithathinlayerofsalt.Layerthesalted

lemonsinthejaralongwithafewofeachofthespices—coriander,cinnamon,cloves,peppercorns,bay—andsomeofthesaltandjuicethathasaccumulatedinthebowl.Weightthefinishedlemonswithasmallplateandletsitovernight.Thefollowingday,removetheweight.Ifthelevelofthebrinehasnotrisen

abovethetopmostlayeroflemons,addadditionallemonjuiceuntilthelemonsareimmersedinliquid.Coverthejarandletsitatroomtemperatureforabout30

daysbeforeusing.Youcanleavethelemonsatroomtemperatureforuptoafewmonths,butrefrigerationwillextendtheirshelflifeforupto6months.Touse,lightlyrinsealemonundercoolrunningwatertoremovetheexcess

salt.Scrapeoutthepulpyinteriorofthelemonwithaspoon,thenchopthetenderskin.Usepulpandskinasdirectedintheheadnoteorinindividualrecipes.

DRIEDFRUITINBRANDY

Driedfruitplumpedinblackteaandbrandyaddsasophisticatedsweetnesstomanymeatypreparations.Inthecharcuterie,wekeepseveraltypesoffruitinbrandyonhandtogarnishcrépinettesandterrines,stuffroasts,orservealongsidesmokedorroastedmeats.Prunesandcurrantsarestaplesinourpantry,butyoucanusethissamemethodtopreservedriedcherries,figs,apricots,orpears.MAKESABOUT1

QUART(1L)

1¼pounds(570g)pittedprunes,driedcurrants,orotherdriedfruit2tablespoonshoney2cups(480ml)piping-hotfreshlybrewedstrongblacktea(suchasAssamorDarjeeling)1cup(240ml)good-qualitybrandy,Cognac,orArmagnac

Packthefruitintoaclean1-quart(1L)jar.Stirthehoneyintothehotteaandpouroverthefruit.Topwiththebrandy.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast2daysbeforeusing.Thefruitkeepswellrefrigeratedforseveralmonths.

RootsThereisnosubstituteforfreshginger,horseradish,andturmericformeatymarinades,sauces,orseasonings.Theiroddlyscruffyexteriorsbeliethepowerful,piercingflavorscontainedintheirflesh.Freshrootsshouldbefirmandwrinkle-free.Purchasetheminreasonablequantitiestomaintainafreshsupply.Touse,cutawaytheportionoftherootyouintendtouse,thenpeelawaytheskinandgratetheflesh.Freshlygratedgingerandturmericandespeciallyfreshlygratedhorseradish(whichbecomesbitterquitequickly)shouldbeusedrightaway.Storeeachofthecutrootsinitsownsealedbagintherefrigerator.

FreshWildMushroomsWeusefreshwildmushroomsinthecharcuterieeverychanceweget.Theirflavorsechomanyoftherichflavorsofmeat,andthetwomakeatastypair.Linksofwildmushroomsausageloadedwithsautéedmorels,crépinettesstuddedwithchunksofbrownedporcini,brothscentedwithunctuouschanterelles,andagloriousporkroaststuffedwithwildmushroomduxellesarehighlyanticipatedseasonaltreats.Findingagoodlocalsourceforfreshwildmushroomsisessential.Orbetteryet,getoffyourduffandhavealookaroundyourlocale.Wildmushroomsgrowinnearlyeveryregion.Ifyouliketocookwithmushroomsasmuchaswedo,somehomeworkandawalkinthewoodswillpayoff.Localmycologicalsocietiescanprovideyouwithawealthofinformationaboutforaginginyourareaandhelpyoutonetworkwithexperiencedforagers.Alwaysconsultafieldguideortwowhenforagingandonlyeatmushroomsthatyouarecompletelyconfidentareedible.

DriedWildMushroomsForsauces,compoundbutters,meatybraises,evenforaddingtoaterrine,driedwildmushroomsprovideearthyflavoranytime.Agood-qualitydriedmushroomisoftenpreferabletoalessthanfabulousfreshmushroom.Ifyouaresubstitutingdriedmushroomsforfreshinarecipe,youwillneedtouseabout3ounces(85g)foreverypound(450g)calledforintherecipe.Wepreferanovernightsoakincoldwatertorehydratedriedmushrooms

ratherthanthefastsoakinhotwateroftenrecommended.Coldwaterpreservestheflavorofthemushroomsabitbetterandthelongsoakallowsforanevendistributionofmoisture.Coverthemushroomswiththreetofourtimesthevolumeofcoldwaterandletsitovernight.Thefollowingday,gentlyremovethe

mushroomsfromtheirsoakingliquid,usingyourhandsoraslottedspoon.Patthemushroomsdry(donotsqueeze)andpreparethemasyouwouldfreshmushrooms.Ifyouplantousethesoakingliquid,strainitthroughafine-meshsievetoremoveanydirtorsandthatmayhavebeenclingingtothemushrooms.

TrufflesTrufflesarenotquiteamushroombuttherelatedfruitingbodyoftheascomycetousfungi,bornoftheprecariousrelationshipbetweenclementweather,rich,chalkysoil,andanundergroundnetworkofmycelianurturedinthehavenofparticulartreeroots.Theresultingknobbytuberwithitsbeguiling,muskyaromaisthesubjectofmuchgastronomicwaxing.ItistheblackorPérigordtruffle(Tubermelanosporum),namedfortheregion

inFrancewhereitisoftenforaged,thatisparticularlyusefulinuppingthecharcuterieante.Afewwell-placedshavingsoffreshblacktruffleaddaswoonfactortopâtés,mousses,freshsausage,salami,andotherpreparations.Ahostoftruffleproductsareavailableatthemarket,fromoilsandpastestosaltsandvodkas,andmostofthemarenotgood.Manyofthemdon’tevencontainactualtruffle.Ifyouwanttheflavoroftruffle,saveyournickelsanddimesfortherealdeal.Purchasefreshtrufflesduringtheseason,whichbeginsinthelastdaysofautumnandstretcheswellintowinter.Takeagoodwhiffbeforeyousignonthedottedline.Freshblacktrufflesshouldhaveapowerfularoma.Trufflesareperishableandneedtobeusedimmediatelyorcarefullystoredinanairtightcontainerlesttheirephemeralaromadissipate.Inthecharcuterie,westoreourfreshtruffleslooselyswaddledincheeseclothandplacedinroomycoveredjarsfilledpartwaywithArborioriceandfresheggsthatbenefitfromthearomaofthetruffles.Alittletrufflegoesalongway.Shavethinsliceswithatruffleshaverorsmallmandoline,orgratethetruffleswitharasp-typegrater.

THECHARCUTIER’SWILDMUSHROOMDUXELLES

Stuffedintoaroast,foldedintoafarceforsausageorpâté,orusedasabaseforadecadentmushroomsauce,thisrobustduxelles,theclassicFrenchpreparationofchoppedsautéedmushrooms,isnearlyalwaysonhandinourpantrywhenwildmushroomsareabundant.Inthecharcuterie,weprepareduxellesusinglardorduckfat(ofcourse!)andfinishitwithgeléewhichbothseasonsthemushroomsandbindsthemixture,importantifyouplantouseitasastuffingformeats.Forthispreparation,freshwildmushroomsworkbest.Morelsarea

favoritebutporcini,chanterelles,blacktrumpets,hedgehogs,oramixofwhateverwildmushroomsyoucanfindwilldo.MAKESABOUT4CUPS

(650G)

2tablespoonslardorrenderedduckfat1pound(450g)wildmushrooms,trimmedandslicedFineseasalt¼cup(40g)mincedshallot3tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme¼cup(15g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼cup(60ml)Marsala½cup(120ml)geléeorgelatinousbroth(step12),optional

Inasautépan,meltthelardovermedium-highheat.Addthemushroomsinasingleuncrowdedlayerandseasonwithsalt.Ifyouarefinishingwithgelée,usealighthand,asthegeléecanbehighlyseasoned.Stirthemushroomsafter1minute,thenaddtheshallot,increasetheheattohigh,andcookfor2to3minutes,untiltheliquidfromthemushroomshasalmostcompletelyevaporated.Addthethymeandparsleyandturndowntheheattolow.PourintheMarsalaandcookfor3minutes,thenaddthegeléeandcookforanotherfewminutes,untiltheliquidisalmostcompletelyreduced.Removefromtheheatandlettheduxellescooltoroomtemperature.Tastefor

seasoning.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3days.

FunghiSott’olio

FUNGHISOTT’OLIO

InthisclassicItalianpreparation,mushroomsarefirstpickledinvinegarandthenpreservedinanaromaticoiltoproduceamushroomthatisatoncebrightlyflavoredyetearthyandunctuous.Stashajarortwoinyourpantrywhenwildmushroomsarecopious,thenuseasanassertivecounterpointtoanantipastoofcuredorsmokedmeatsorasadeliciousandquickadditiontoasaladofpepperygreenswithcrispybaconandgoatcheese.Or,eatthem,asweoftendo,straightfromthejar.MAKES

ABOUT1QUART(1L)

1pound(450g)meatywildmushrooms(suchaslobsterorporcini),trimmedandsliced¼inch(6mm)thick3tablespoonsfineseasalt3cups(720ml)champagnevinegar2cups(480ml)extra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded4clovesgarlic,thinlysliced1freshordriedbayleaf2widestripslemonzest3driedcayenneorárbolchiles2or3sprigsoregano

Inabowl,tossthemushroomswiththesalt,thentransfertoacolanderandletdrainfor1hour.Lightlyrinsethemushroomsundercoolrunningwatertoremovetheexcess

salt.Transfertoasaucepan,addthevinegar,andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Cookfor5to7minutes,untiltender.Removefromtheheat.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthemushroomstoa

clean1-quart(1L)jar.Strainthecookingliquidthroughafine-meshsieveintoasecondjarorabottle,letcool,cover,andreserveforadifferentuse.Inasaucepan,combinethe2cups(480ml)oliveoil,garlic,bay,lemonzest,

chiles,andoreganoandheatoverlowfor5to7minutes,untiltheoiliswarmandthearomaticsbegintoreleasetheiraroma.Pourtheoilandaromaticsoverthemushrooms.Ifthearomaticsseemcrowdedatthetopofthejar,useabutterknifeorchopsticktoprodthemgentlyintothedepthsofthejar.Ifany

mushroomsarepokingthroughthetoplayerofoil,addadditionaloiltocover.Coverthejarandrefrigeratefor2to3daysbeforeusingtoallowtheflavors

tomeld.Themushroomswillstaydeliciousandvibrantintherefrigeratorfor4to6weeks.Toserve,letthejarstandatroomtemperaturefor20to30minutes,thenusea

cleanforktoliftoutasmanymushroomslicesasneeded.Whenyouhaveusedupallofthemushrooms,theleftoveroilcanbesavedandusedforbruschettaorcombinedwiththereservedvinegartomakeamushroom-flavoredvinaigrette.

I

2

PROVISIONINGTHELARDER

maginetheperfectlarderinalowdarkcorneronthenorth-facingsideofthehouse.Itscleantiledwallsarelinedwithtidyshelvesstockedwithjarsofsuetanddrippings;basketsofapples,potatoes,onions,andwintersquashes;atubofgoldenbutter;crocksofsausageandduckconfit.Suspendedfromahookisahaunchofporkwithathickrindoffat,readytobeturnedintocreamylard,aheadybroth,perhapsasmokedham.Withtheseprovisions,youcouldeasilywhipupanelegantpâté,aheartypotofsoup,oramessofbiscuits.Coolandcomforting,thelarderaffordsanassurancethatyouwillbeabletoprovideforyourtable.Nowadaysalarder,orcoldcellar,mightseemlikeabitofathrowback.Most

contemporarydwellingslacksufficientareaforalarder,soifyoudohaveone,consideryourselflucky.Evenifyouliveinastudioonthethirtiethfloor,itisstillworthwhiletosequesterashelfinthefridgeforprovisioningwithmeatysupplies.Inthecharcuterie,thelarderisamplystockedwithfats,bonebroths,and

varioustypesofconfits.Theyarethecrucialcomponentsofthecharcutier’srepertoire,theindispensablebuildingblocksforcooking,binding,flavoring,andpreservation.Theyarethemeatystaplesthecharcutierreliesondaily—staplesyouwillsoonfindyoucannotdowithout.

Bones,scraps,andmiscellaneathatothersmighttossarehugelyvaluableinthecharcuterie.Yougetthemostfromyourmeateconomically,flavorfully,andphilosophicallywhenyoutakeaholisticapproachtocooking.Thisisespeciallytrueifyouareutilizinglargecutsorwholeanimals,whichwillgenerateahostofmeatyby-productsthatcanbeturnedintoessentialcookingfats,versatilebonebroths,andconvenientconfits.

EssentialAnimalFats

Charcuterieispracticallysynonymouswithfat.Fatprovidesfoodwithanopulenttextureandsatisfyingflavor.Itisnecessaryforcookingandcanplayanimportantroleinpreservation.Historically,animalfatswereanimportantpartofthehumandietand

representedalargepercentageofourforebear’scaloricintake.Then,inthelate1950s,AncelKeys,anAmericanscientist,promotedthelipidhypothesis,whichclaimedtherewasadirectlinkbetweentheamountofsaturatedfatconsumedandtheincidenceofcoronaryheartdisease.Althoughmanydissenterschallengedhistheories,citinglowincidenceofheartdiseaseamongmanytraditionalpopulationsthatconsumedlargeamountsofanimalfats,hisideastookholdintheAmericanpsyche.Thevegetableoilandprocessedfoodindustrywastednotimeinfundingresearchtosupportthehypothesis,andanimalfatsweresoonscratchedoffthemenu.Todayweknowthatthehumanbody’srelationshipwithfatisfarmore

complexthanthelipidhypothesissuggested.Goodfatswillnotnecessarilymakeyourbodyfat.Hydrogenatedandindustriallyprocessedfatsarethoughttobefarworseforthebodythanhigh-qualityanimalfats.Low-fatdietshavebeenassociatedwithincreasedratesofdepressionandfatigue.Animalfatscontainmanynutrientsthatmayactuallyhelpthebodyprotectitselffromcancerandheartdisease.Thefatofgrass-fedanimalshasbeenfoundtobeparticularlyhealthfulandcontainhighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandconjugatedlinoleicacids(CLAs),“goodfats”thatcanimprovebrainfunction,reduceinflammation,andpromotecardiovascularhealth.Forproof,looknofurtherthanFrance,birthplaceofcharcuterieandlandof

runnycheese,butterycroissants,creamysauces,andrichpâtés.Overall,theFrenchhaveasignificantlylowerincidenceofheartdiseasethanAmericans.IntheGasconyregionofFrance,whereduckfatandfoiegrasisconsumedwith

gusto,itislowerstill.Sogoaheadandspreadalittleschmaltzonyourbread!Animalsstorefatintheirbodiesinavarietyofways.Thefourbasictypesof

animalfatthatcanbeusedinthecharcuteriearesubcutaneous,intermuscular,intramuscular,andleaforcavityfat.Cavityfatisthefatsurroundingananimal’sorgans.Itisharvestedfromtheabdominalcavitiesofwholeanimalswhereitoftenclingslooselytotheorgansandbodyandcanbeeasilypeeledorcutaway.Cavityfatsareexcellentwhenrenderedforuseincookingandaregenerallypreferredforbaking.Subcutaneousfatisthefatthatresidesjustbelowtheskin.Thissometimesthicklayeroffatisplainlyevidentontheoutsideoftheloins,shoulders,andlegmusclesofpork,beef,andlamb.Itisthisfat,suchastherindoffatontheoutsideofaporkloinorthefatcaponaribeye,thathelpstokeepthemusclemeatjuicerandmoretenderduringcooking.Someorallofthisfatisoftentrimmedaway,however,andinadditiontobeingusefulforsausagemaking,itisalsoexcellentforrenderingtouseincooking.

Intermuscularfat,orseamfat,isthelayeroffatthatseparatesthemusclesfromoneanother.Althoughlessabundantandgenerallysofterthancavityandsubcutaneousfat,itiseasilytrimmedawayandcanberenderedalongwithotherfats.Intramuscularfat,knownmorecommonlyasmarbling,istheinteriorfatcontainedwithineachmuscle.Steaks,roasts,andchopsderivetheirsucculencefromhighlyprizedintramuscularfat.Sinceintramuscularfatdevelopsmoreslowlythanotherfats,itismostabundantinmorematureanimals.Althoughyoucannotactuallyharvestintramuscularfat,exceptperhapsintheformofpandrippings,itisnonethelessbeneficialincookingandcuringmeat.Thefatofananimalcanconveyinformationabouttheanimal’sbreeding,diet,

andlifestyle.Differentbreedsofanimalscanhavevastlydifferentfatdistributionandmeat-to-fatratios.ThePekin(LongIsland)duckisfarfattierthanitscousin,theleanMuscovy.Traditionally,pigsweresortedintotwogroups,lardbreeds,raisedprimarilyfortheirfat,andbaconbreeds,selectedformeatierpurposes.Ananimal’sdietalsogreatlyaffectsboththequalityandquantityofitsfat.Carotenoidsfoundingrasscancausethefatofgrass-fedbeefandlambtoyellow,andalthoughthiscolormaynotbepleasingtotheeye,itsignalsagooddietofhealthypasture.Butasimilarpigmentationinchickenfatcanindicateaprimarilycorn-baseddiet,ratherthanabalanceddietoflivinggrasses,insects,plants,andavarietyofgrains.Thewayananimalisraised,theamountofaccessithastotheoutdoors,anditslifespanallaffectfatproduction.Generally,animalsthatareadequatelyexercised,spendpartoralloftheirlivesoutdoors,andareallowedtogrowandmatureataslowerpacewillhavebetter

fatdistributionandbetter-qualityfat.Butterisanotherformofanimalfat.Althoughwetendtothinkofbutterasa

dairyproduct,itisindeedapreservedfatmadefromthemilkofananimal,mostlythebeefcow.Butterhasmanyusesinthecharcuterie.Itgivesducklivermousseacreamytexture,enrichessauces,andcanbeusedtomoistenandflavorleanermeatssuchaschicken.Likeotheranimalfats,butterhasgottenabadrapinrecentyears,butwenowknowthatitisfarmorehealthfulthanmargarineandagoodsourceforfat-solublevitaminslikevitaminsA,D,K,andE.Nutrient-rich,goldenbuttermadefromthemilkofJerseycowsthathavebeengrazingongreenspringpastureisasatisfyingrevelation.Herearethedifferenttypesofanimalfatsandtheiruses,followedby

instructionsonhowtorenderfatproperly.

ChickenFatAlthoughnotabundantinfat,aplump,naturallyraisedchickenwillhavecavityfatandfatabouttheneck,tail,andlegthatcanbeeasilytrimmedaway.Ifyouareusingachickeninapreparationinwhichitsskinisnotrequired,theskinisalsoanexcellentsourceoffatforrendering.Renderedchickenfatisbrightyellow,semifirmatroomtemperature,andlendsasatisfyingroastchickenflavortofood.Itcanbeusedforsautéing,roastingvegetables,asaspreadforbread,andisoftenpreferredforfryinginkosherkitchens.

DuckandGooseFatDucksandgeesearemigratorybirds,geneticallystructuredtostashquantitiesoffatfortheirlongjourneys.Consequently,youcanrenderagoodamountoffatfromtheirskin,necks,legs,andcavity.Theirfatiswhiterandfirmerthanchickenfatandisexcellentforsautéing,roastingvegetables,andpreparingconfitsandotherpreserves.

Fromleft:drippings,strainedsausageconfitfat,chickenfat,duckfat,foiegrasfat,leaflard

PorkFat,Lard,andLeafLardPorkfatfromtheback,leg,orshoulder,aswellasanyothersubcutaneousorintermuscularfattrimmings,canberenderedtomakelard.Properlyrenderedlardiswhite,firm,andhasamildporkyflavor.Thisextremelyversatilefatcanbeusedforsautéing,roasting,baking,andpreparingconfits.Itisalsoexcellentfordeep-fryingandhasaveryhighsmokepointof400°F(200°C).Foodsfriedinlardabsorblessfatthanfoodsfriedinoil,andthelardcanbestrainedandreusedseveraltimes.Thefatfromthepig’sabdominalcavity,whichisfoundintwolongstrips

surroundingthekidneys,isrenderedtomakeleaflard,whichissnowwhite,quitefirm,andhasamildporkyflavor.Itissimilartoallotherlardinthatitcanbeusedforsautéing,roasting,deep-frying,andpreserving,butitismostprizedforbaking,whereitsbrittle,crystallinestructureyieldsflakypastryandbiscuits.

BeefandLambFat,Tallow,andSuetThetermstallowandsuetareusedtodescribetypesofbothbeefandlambfat.Tallow,themoregeneralterm,isusedforallrenderedfat,andsuetreferstocavityfat,bothrawandrendered.Beeftallow,whichcanberenderedfromnearlyanybeeffattrimmings,isa

usefulfatinthekitchen,greatforsautéing,roasting,anddeep-frying.Frenchfriescookedinbubblingbeeftallowarelegendary,asisYorkshirepuddingpreparedwithroastbeefdrippingsortallow.Likethehigh-qualitycavityfatofthepig,beefsuetisfoundintwolongstripsintheabdomen,aroundthekidneys.

Therenderedfatisusedprimarilyforbakingandistheclassicchoiceforthepastryforamincemeatpie.Lambfattakenfromtheloin,neck,leg,andshouldercanalsoberenderedand

usedforcooking.Itisbrightwhiteandfirm,likebeeftallow,butithasastronglambflavorthatcanbeoverpowering.Itisbestusedforlambbraisesorstews,whereitwillenhancethealready-presentlambflavorofthedish.

ButterIrresistiblebutter,usuallymadefromfattycow’smilk,isextremelyversatile.Whatisn’tmadebetterwithalittlebutter?Buttercanbecutintoflourforflakypastry,usedtoenrichasauce,clarifiedforhigh-heatcooking,orslatheredongoodbreadandenjoyedinallofitsglorioussimplicity.Frombakingandsautéingtoroastingandevenpoaching(butter-poachedblacktruffle,anyone?),buttercandoit.Inthecharcuterie,weoftenpreparecompoundbutters,whicharebuttersmixedwithherbs,garlic,orshallotsandsometimeswine.Wetuckthemundertheskinofleanpoultrytokeepthemeatmoistduringroasting,ordotthemontopofgrilledorroastedmeatsinplaceofasauce.Butterhasasweeterandmilderflavorthanmostotheranimalfatsandmeltsat

aboutbodytemperature,whichaccountsforitshighlyprizedmelt-in-your-mouthsensation.Itisalsomoreperishablethanotheranimalfatsandreadilyabsorbsflavors,soitisbestkepttightlywrappedorinacoveredcrockandstoredinacoollocationorrefrigerated.

RenderingFatRenderingistheprocessofslowlycookingsolidrawfatstoevaporatetheirwaterandextractaversatile,purifiedfatforcooking.Althoughyoucanpurchaserenderedfatsfromagoodbutcherorspecialtyfoodstore,renderingthemyourselfissimpleandeconomical,especiallyifyouarealreadypurchasinglargecutsorwholeanimals.

1.Grind,grate,orchopyourfat.Beginwithchilledfat.Grindingfatinameatgrinderwillexposemoresurfacearearesultinginahigheryield.Groundfatwillalsorendermorequickly.(It’sagoodideatoplantogrindfatforrenderingwhenyouarealreadysettingupyourgrinderforanotherpurpose,suchasmakingsausage,toconsolidatetasks.)Cutthefatinto½-inch(12mm)cubesandfreezeforabout45minutes.Oncethefathasalightfreeze,followtheinstructionsforgrinding,step5.Alternatively,forsmallamounts

ofpork,beef,orlambfat,gratethoroughlychilledorpartiallyfrozenchunksoffatonthelargeholesofaboxgrater.Forsmallamountsofpoultryfat,chopthefatasfinelyaspossiblebyhand.

2.Choosetherightpot.Selectanappropriate-size,heavy-bottomed,tall-sidedpot.Forlargeamounts(5to10pounds/2.3to4.5kg),useatallstockpot.Forsmalleramounts(say,thecavityfatfromaduck),adeepsaucepanoraWindsorpan(flaredsidesandflatbottom)willbesufficient.Thefatshouldfillthepotatleasthalfwaybutnotmorethanthree-fourths.Toomuchfatinthepotriskssplatteringandtoolittleorusingtooshallowapanrisksburning.Addabout2tablespoonswaterforeverypound(450g)offattohelphastenthemeltingprocessandpreventsticking.Theaddedwaterwillcookoffquicklyafterthefatmelts.

3.Simmerthefat.Setthepotoververylowheat.Stirthefateveryfewminutestopreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Ifthefatbeginstostick,addasmallamountofwatertohelploosenthefat.Oncethefathasmelted,turnuptheheattomediumandsimmeruntilsteamisnolongervisible.Cookingtimeswillvarydependingonthewatercontentofthefat.Turnofftheheatandletthefatcoolinthepotfor20to30minutes.Thesolidswillfalltothebottomofthepot.

4.Strainthefat.Ladlethefatthroughafine-meshstrainerintoacleanglassjarorothercontainertoremoveanysolids.Alocking-lidglassjarisideal.Keeprefrigerated.Thechilledfatshouldbequitefirm.However,ifitseemslooseorwatery,returnittothepanandsimmerforanadditional20minutestoevaporateanyextramoisture.Properlystored,renderedfatwillkeepfor3monthsintherefrigeratororforupto6monthsinthefreezer.

COLLECTINGPANDRIPPINGS

Drippingsarethedeliciousby-productsofroastingandsearing.Theyarethefatthatliterallydripsfromthemeatwhenyoucookaroast,frybacon,brownaduckbreast,orsearfoiegras.Thefatthatisrenderedthis

waywillnotbeasunadulteratedastraditionallyrenderedfat,butitisstillworthsavingforsautéinggreens,roastingrootvegetables,oraddingflavortoapotofbeans.Tocollectthedrippings,pourtheaccumulatedfatand

juicesthroughastrainerintoaclearglassjarormeasuringcup.Allowthedrippingstocooluntilthefatseparatesfromthejus(juices).Ladleoffthefatintoanothercontainerandsavethejusforapansauceorforenrichingsoupsorbraises.Refrigerated,mostdrippingswillkeepwellforseveralweeks.

TruffledCremadiLardo

TRUFFLEDCREMADILARDO

In2001,wetookanextendedhiatusfromworktoeatourwaythroughSpain,Portugal,France,andItaly.Butthecallofthemeatshopwasstrong,anditwasn’tlongbeforewefoundourselvesworkingatthefamedAnticaMacelleriaCecchiniinPanzanoinChianti,apicturesquehamletintheTuscancountryside.Theproprietor,DarioCecchini,isatrulylarger-than-lifecharacterforwhomfood,friendship,music,andtheversesofDanteareallequallyimportant.Hiscremadilardo,agutsyspreadmadefromrawfreshporkfat,rosemary,garlic,andredwinevinegar,wasoneofthemostuniquepreparationswehadencounteredonourtrip.Rawgroundporkfatisworkedonathickmarbleslabtovolumizeit,creatingalight,delicatelytexturedspreadthatiseatenonbreadinplaceofoliveoilorbutter.MakingthecremaatthemacelleriaforthefirsttimewithCherblastingfromthestereo,localvinoflowingfromthecarafe,andDariocheeringhappilywasanunforgettableexperience.Intribute,wemakethisdecadenttruffle-ladenversionofthecremadilardoeachDecember.Becauseyouwillbeconsumingitraw,theporkfatmustbeabsolutely

fresh.Ifyoucanprocurechestnuthoneyvinegar,itaddsacertainjenesaisquoi.Ifnot,champagnevinegaroranyothergood-qualitywinevinegarwillwork.Getthemostfragrantfreshblacktrufflesmoneycanbuyandyouwon’tbesorry.Aslickmarblesurfaceisoptimalandrecommended.Othersurfaces,suchaswoodorstainlesssteel,candiscolororimpartunwantedflavorstothefat.Servethecremaaspartofanantipastoorsalumiplatterwithgood,crustybread.Thisrecipemakesagoodbitofcrema,butsincethecommencement

oftruffleseasongenerallycoincideswiththeholidays,youmightconsidergivingthegiftofdeliciousporkfatlacedwithtrufflestoyourmostdeservingandappreciativefriends.MAKESABOUT2½POUNDS(1.2

KG)

2½pounds(1.2kg)freshporkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1tablespoonfine

seasalt,pulverizedinaspicegrinder1teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoongarlicpoundedtoapasteinamortar1tablespoonplus1teaspoonchestnuthoneyvinegarorothervinegar2ounces(55g)freshblacktruffle,gratedonarasp-typegrater

Chillthebackfatinthefreezerfor1hour.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,step5,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthefatintoalargebowl.Addthesalt,pepper,garlic,and1tablespoonofthevinegar.Usingyourhands,mixforabout1minute.Slowlyaddthetruffle,continuingtomixuntilitisfullyincorporated.Pourtheremaining1teaspoonvinegarontoalargemarbleslaborcountertop.

Usingyourfingertips,spreaditoverthesurfacetocoatlightly.Turnthefatmixtureoutontothemarble,then,usingyourpalms,spreadthefatoverthesurface.Massagethemixtureroughlywithyourfingertips,asifwashingyourhair,thenscrapethefatbackintoamoundandrepeat.Theideaisnotjusttomixthefatbutalsotoaerateit.Oncethecremahastripledinvolume,tasteforseasoning.Storerefrigeratedinacoveredcrockorjarforupto5days.Bringtoroom

temperaturebeforeserving.

FlakyLeafLardBiscuits

FLAKYLEAFLARDBISCUITS

Aflakybiscuit,lightlybrownandcrunchyontheoutside,tender,airy,andmoistinside,istheHolyGrailforbakerseverywhere.Goodbiscuitsaretheculminationofusingqualityingredientsintherightproportionsandgoodtechniques.Thetechniquesarefairlysimpleandeasytomaster:keepallofyouringredientswellchilled,makesureyourovenisquitehot,anddon’toverworkthedough.Asfortheingredients,youcan’tgowrongwithall-naturalleaflardthatyou’verenderedyourself.Buttermakesagoodbiscuit,too,butbecausebutterbeginstomeltatalowertemperaturethanlard,anytraceofwaterinthemeltingbuttercausesthedoughtosticktogether,ratherthanseparateintothin,distinctflakylayers.ServethesebiscuitsalongsideRoastedNettleButterChickenwith

SpringVegetables,orsplitthemandstuffthemwithbrownedpattiesofbreakfastsausageorgriddledslicesofPicnicHam.MAKES14TO16

BISCUITS(2½INCHES/6CMINDIAMETER)

1pound(450g)unbleachedall-purposeflour,plusmoreforrollingandshapingthedough2tablespoonsbakingpowder1tablespoonsugar2teaspoonsfineseasalt6ounces(170g)chilledleaflard,cubed1cup(240ml)coldbuttermilk1½tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

Preheattheovento450°F(230°C).Havereadyalargeungreasedbakingsheet.Inalarge,shallowbowl,sifttogethertheflour,bakingpowder,sugar,andsalt.

Placethebowlintherefrigeratortochillforabout20minutes.Usingapastryblender,cutthelardintotheflourmixtureuntilthemixture

resemblescoarsecrumbs.Makeawellinthecenteroftheflour-lardmixture,andpourthebuttermilkintothewell.Usingafork,graduallydrawtheflour-lardmixtureintothebuttermilkandmixgentlywithaforkjustuntilincorporated.Lightlyflouraworksurfaceandturnthedoughoutontoit.Kneadthedough

gently,justuntilitholdstogetherandbeginstotakeshape.Patthedoughgingerlyintoaflatdisk.Smoothanylargecracksaroundtheedgesbypressinginwardlightly.Rolloutthedoughaneven½inch(12mm)thick.Lightlyflourasharp-edged,roundbiscuitcutterabout2½inches(6cm)in

diameter.Workingfromtheouteredgeofthedoughtowardthecenter,cutoutasmanybiscuitsaspossible,pressingstraightdownandliftingstraightuptomakeeachcut.Laythebiscuitsonthebakingsheet,spacingthem¼inch(6mm)apart.(Youcangatherupanyscraps,pressthemtogethergently,rerollthedoughonce,andcutoutmorebiscuits;however,thissecondroundofbiscuitsusuallydoesnotrisequiteasfullyasthefirst.)Brushthebiscuittopswiththebutter.Bakefor6to7minutes,thenrotatethepanfrombacktofrontandcontinuetobakeforabout6minuteslonger,untillightlybrownedontop.Removefromtheovenandservethehotbiscuitsimmediately.

RoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetables

ROASTEDNETTLEBUTTERCHICKENWITHSPRINGVEGETABLES

Compoundbuttersareperfectforinfusingleanmeatssuchaschicken,guineahen,orturkeywithalittleextrafatandflavor.Tuckedundertheskin,theybastethebirdasitroasts,keepingitsmeatjuicyandflavorfulandensuringgolden,crispyskin.Weespeciallylikethisverdantcompoundbuttermadewithstingingnettles.Ifyouenjoyforagingforyourfood,youwillfindnettlesgrowabundantlyinthewild.Ifyouarelesshands-onwhenitcomestogatheringyoursupperingredients,youcanoftenpurchasenettlesinthespringtimeatyourlocalfarmers’marketoratgoodspecialtyproduceshops.Ineithercase,youwanttousethetipsandleafytoppartoftheplantonly.Discardanystemsthatseemtoughorwoody.Rawnettleshaveanaturalacidthatwillstingyourskinandmustbelightlycookedbeforeeating.Alwaysweargloveswhengatheringortrimmingnettles.Thisrecipemakesmorebutterthanyouwillneedforthechicken.Use

theremaindertodressnoodles,enrichpolenta,ortopasteakjustbeforeserving.Servethechickenwithasimplegreensalad.SERVES4,WITH

LEFTOVERBUTTER

NETTLEBUTTER

8ounces(225g)trimmedstingingnettles1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil2clovesgarlic,poundedtoapasteinamortarGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1½teaspoonsfineseasalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1pound(450g)good-qualityunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperatureCHICKEN

1roastingchicken,3½to4pounds(1.6to1.8

kg)Fineseasalt10to12shallots,peeledbutleftwhole12to14smallnewpotatoes12to14smallturnips,trimmed12to14youngcarrots,peeled2fennelbulbs,trimmedandeachcutinto6wedges

Topreparethebutter,bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Usingtongsorglovedhands,carefullytransferthenettlestothepotandblanchfor2to3minutes.Draininacolanderandletcool.Atthispoint,thenettlesaresafetohandlewithbarehands.Squeezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossibleandchopcoarsely.Inafoodprocessor,combinethenettlesandoliveoilandpureeuntilsmooth,

scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatulaeveryseveralseconds.Addthegarlic,lemonzestandjuice,salt,pepper,andbutterandpulsetocombine.Tasteforseasoning.Reserve½cup(115g)ofthebutterforthechickenandvegetables.Tightly

wraptheremainingbutterinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto1weekorfreezeforupto2months.Topreparethechicken,seasonitinsideandoutwithsalt.Foldthewings

behindtheback—itshouldappeartoberecliningonadeckchair—topreventthewingtipsfromburningwhileroasting.Usingyourfingers,gentlyloosentheskinawayfromthemeatonthebreast,startingatthetopofthebreastandworkingdowntowardthethighsanddrumsticks.Smearabout6tablespoons(90g)ofthereservedbutterbetweentheloosenedskinandthemeatasevenlyaspossible.Gentlypattheskinbackintoplace.Setthechickenonatrayorplatterandrefrigerate,uncovered,overnight.(Thisgivestheseasoningtimetomarrywiththebird.Plus,omittingacoverallowstheskintodryoutabit,whichensuresbetterbrowning.)Preheattheovento400°F(200°C).Looselyfillthebottomofaroomyroastingpanwiththeshallots,potatoes,

turnips,carrots,andfennelanddotwiththeremaining2tablespoonsbutter.Placethechickendirectlyontopofthevegetables.Roastthechickenfor15minutes.Spoonsomeofthemeltedbutterthathas

accumulatedinthebottomofthepanoverthevegetablesandtheskinofthebird,roastforanother15minutes,andthenbastethevegetablesandbirdagain.Lowertheheatto375°F(190°C)andcontinuetoroastforabout30minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothethickestpartofathighawayfromboneregisters160°F(70°C).

Transferthechickentoacarvingboardandletrestfor10minutes.Tocarve,unfoldthewingsand,usingthetipofaknife,gentlyremovethewingsfromthebody.Severthetipfromtheflatandthenseparatetheflatfromthedrumette.Reservethewingtipforbroth.Repeatwiththeotherwing.Oneatatime,removethelegs:Gentlyfoldthethighawayfromthebodyuntiltheballjointofthethighbonepopsoutofthesocket.Usingthetipoftheknife,cutthroughtheskintoseparatethelegfullyfromthecarcass.Cutthethighawayfromthedrumstick.Carvethemeatoffofthebreastboneinasinglepieceandsliceonthediagonal,startingatthewidestpartofthebreasttowhereitcomestoapointatthebottom.Savethecarcassformakingapost-roastbroth.Accordingtoappetites,putafewslicesofbreast,halfofaleg,andapieceof

wingoneachperson’splateandadornwiththeroastedvegetables.

VersatileBoneBroths

“Indeed,stockiseverythingincooking.…Withoutit,nothingcanbedone.”—AUGUSTEESCOFFIER

Ondayswhenthewindblowsasidewaysrainagainstthewindow,abowlofbeefbrothfortifiesthesoul.Ifyournoserunsandyourthroatturnssoreandscratchy,arich,ginger-lacedduckbrothsoothesthebody.Whenworkgoestoolate,oryouaretootiredtocook,alittleroastedporkbrothaugmentedwithtinypastaandgratedParmesancheese,apoachedegg,choppedgreens,orafewcroutonsprovidesasimplesolutionforsupper.Youcandressuparichgamebirdbrothwithahandfulofwildmushroomsandashavingoftruffleforanelegantdinner.Or,youcankeepitplainandsimpleandwarmyourselfupwithamugofchickenbrothonachillyafternoon.Brothscanmakeallthedifferencebetweenagooddishandatrulygreatone.

Learningtomakeexcellent-qualitybrothswilladddepthandrangetoyourcooking.Brothfrequentlyturnsupinthelistofrecipeingredients.Braises,soups,sauces,rice,andstewsaremadebetterwithbroth.Youcanusebrothtomoistenroastedvegetables,makeaflavorfulrisotto,orenrichagratin.Inthecharcuterie,brothhasanumberofuses.AttheFattedCalf,wemakeandusebrothsdailyforpoaching,asagelatinousbinder,toenhancethesavorinessofourterrines,andtoaddanintensityofflavortoavarietyofmeatypreparations.

Brothcanquicklybecomeafavoriteingredient—aningredientyoucannotcookwithout.

“Soup isahealthy, light,nourishing food,good forallofhumanity; itpleasesthestomach,stimulatestheappetiteandpreparesthedigestion.”

—BRILLAT-SAVARIN

Brothsarehealthfulandhealing.It’snotjustfolkwisdom.Whenyousimmerbones,cartilage,andtendons,youextractsuchmineralsascalcium,phosphorus,magnesium,glucosamine,silicon,andsulfurinaformthebodycanreadilyassimilate.Youalsoextractgelatin,inevidenceinthewobblefactorofacoldbroth.Gelatinhelpsyourbodyutilizeproteinefficientlyandpromotesgooddigestion.Itisahydrophiliccolloid,asubstancethatattractsandretainsliquids,facilitatingdigestionbyattractingdigestivefluidstothestomach.Theregularconsumptionofbrothisthoughtnotonlytobenefitdigestionbutalsotopromotestrongbonesandteeth,preventjointpain,improveskincondition,reduceinflammation,andhelptofightinfectiousdisease.Thenutritivepropertiesanddigestibilityofbonebrothhavelandeditonthelistofhomeopathicsuperfoodcure-alls.Brothmakessense.Youcanmakethemostofananimalwhenyouuseittoits

fullestpotentialandletnothinggotowaste.Bones,hooves,heads,trotters,scrapsofmeat,evenapicked-overcarcassortheribbonesfromlastnight’sroastarewelcomeadditionstothestockpot.Hooves,feet,andheadscontainthemostgelatin,anditisgoodtoincludeatleastoneofthethreewhenmakingabrothwithgoodbody.AttheFattedCalf,wekeepourbrothsfairlystraightforward:meatybones,headsandfeet,water,andasmallamountoffineseasalt.Thisallowsusversatility.Butathomebrothsmaybealteredatwhim.Mixporkandduckandthrowinaheftydoseofginger,chiles,andpeppercornsforuseincurries,noodlesoups,orheartymorningriceporridge.Afewdriedporcini,asprigofthyme,andthegreentopsofleeksinabrothofchickenorbeefmakesaheartybrodoreadytouseinrisotto,braises,andstews.Rich,delicioushomemadebrothsareeasytomake.Althoughtheyrequire

mostofadaytosimmer,theyarenottime-consumingtoassembleandrequireminimalattentionduringcooking.Youcanmakelargequantitiesandfreezewhatyouwillnotuserightaway.Ifyouarefeelingambitious,makeadayofitandsimmertwoorthreebrothssimultaneously.Wispy,meat-scentedcloudswillsteamthewindowsandyourlarderwillbeprovisionedwithplentyofbrothfor

theseason.

BeginwithBonesChickenbacks,wings,heads,andfeet,orawholecarcass,alongwiththeheartandgizzard,canbeusedtoproduceamild-flavoredgoldenbroth.Itisquiteversatileandcanbeassimilatedintomanyrecipes.Interestingly,mostconventionalchickens,raisedincages,willproduceabrothwithverylittlegelatin.Exercise,slowgrowth,andagooddietproducestrongbones.Pasture-raisedchickensfreshfromthefarmyieldthetastiest,mostgelatinousbroth.Aroosteror“retired”layinghenisalsoagoodoptionforbrothmaking.

Duckbacks,wings,heads,feet,andhearts,orawholecarcass,willproducerichlyflavoreddeepgoldbroth.Duckbrothisgreatforrisotto,arichducksugo,andheartysoupssuchastheGasconclassicgarbure.Inthecharcuterie,duckbrothcanbeusedtogiveaflavorfulboosttoaterrineorasapoachingliquidforagalantine.

Turkey,goose,rabbit,andgamebirdswillallproduceadistinctlyflavored,deliciousbroth.Anybonesfromthecarcassalongwithheads,feet,andneckscanbeusedtoproduceanamberbrewforuseinasoup,stew,sugo,andrisotto.Theycanalsobeusedtoenhancetheflavorofterrinesandotherpreparations.

Porkbonesproducearichandstickyamberbrothwithapronouncedporkflavor.Youcanuseanyporkbones,butforthemostgelatinousandflavorfulbroth,youwillwanttoaddlarge,meatyshankbones,splittrotters,asplitheadtrimmedofitsjowlsandwithitsbrainremoved,oralittleporkskinscrapedoffat.Porkbrothwilladdbodyaswellasrich,meatyflavortobraises,soups,andsauces.Inthecharcuterie,porkbrothcanbeusedtobraisemeatsforpottedmeats,toflavorandbindterrines,andtoaddbodyanddepthtosaucesorsimilarpreparations.

Beefbonesarefullofgelatinandwillyieldarichbrothwithlotsofwobble.Anybeefbonesarewelcomeinyourstockpot,butamixoflargermeatyshankbones,knuckles,theskinnyendsofoxtail,andmeatyneckandribboneswillproduceaparticularlyflavorfulbrothwithgoodbody.BeefbrothistheclassicchoiceforFrenchonionsoupandforatraditionalProvençaldaubeandisgreatinotherbraises,soups,andstews.Inthecharcuterie,thegelatinousnatureofbeefbrothmakesitausefulbinder.

Lambmakesadelicious,dark,rich,andintenselyflavoredbroth.Meatyshankandneckbonesarebest,butanylambbonescanbeused.Thedistinctflavorof

lambbrothmakesitlessversatilethanotherbroths,butitisgreatforuseinshepherd’spie,inlambstewsandbraises,andinsaucesforroastedandgrilledlamb.Lambbrothcanalsobeusedtoenhancetheflavoroflambterrines.

PreparingBonesforBrothBreakthebonesinto3-inch(7.5cm)pieces.Forpoultry,usesharppoultryshearstodothis.Forlargerlamb,beef,andporkbones,useameatsaw,orifyouarepurchasingbonesspecificallyformakingbroth,askyourbutcherifheorshecancutthemforyou.Eachpound(450g)ofboneswillyieldroughly2cups(480ml)broth.Rinsetheboneswithcoldwatertoremoveanyresidue.

RegularorRoastedRoastingbonesbeforesimmeringthemwillproduceadarkerbroth,knownasabrownbroth,witharich,roastedflavorthankstotheMaillardreaction.NamedforaFrenchchemist,thisphenomenonoccurswhensomefoodsareheated,causingthemoleculesintheirnaturalsugarstocombinewiththeaminoacidsintheirproteins,resultinginbrowning,orcaramelization.Youcanroastanytypeofbonesfromchickentolambtoproduceabrothwithamorepronouncedrich,meatyflavor.Whetherornotyouchoosetoroastthebonesisamatterofpersonal

preference.Ifyoupreferabrothwithadeep,roastedflavor,youshouldroastyourbonesbeforesimmeringthem.Ifyouwantamorestraightforward,moreversatilebroth,skiptheroastingtomakewhatisknownasawhitebroth.Forthosewhowouldlikeabrothwithsomeofthecolorandrichroastedflavorbutwithouttheintensityofafullyroastedbonebroth,roastonlyhalfofthebones.Toroastbonesforbroth,preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Spreadthe

preparedbonesinasinglelayer,withoutcrowding,inaroastingpanorheavybakingsheet.Youwantplentyofspacearoundeachpiecetoensuremaximumbrowning.Roastthebonesuntiltheyareagoldenbrown.Thiscantakefrom45minutestoover1hour,dependingonthetypeofbonesandyouroven.Removethepanfromtheovenandtransferthebonestothestockpotinpreparationforbrothmaking.Ifthefondonthebottomoftheroastingpanisnotoverlydark,youcan

deglazeitandaddittothestockpot,aswell.Setthewarmpanoverlowheatandaddjustenoughwatertocoverthebottomofthepan.Usingawoodenspoonandsomeelbowgrease,scrapethepantoloosenthefond.Tastetheliquid.Ifittastesrichandmeaty,addittothestockpot.Ifyoudetectanybitterness,discardit.

POST-ROASTBROTHS

Makethemostofyourroastswithapost-roastbroth.Thepicked-overcarcassofaroastduckorchicken,themeatylegboneofafreshhamorlamb,ortheribbonesfromaporkorbeefroastallhavethepotentialtobereborninabroth.Ontheirown,theymaynotproducethemoststellarbroth,buttheywillcertainlyproduceabrothworthyofsoupmaking.Or,youcancombinethem

withfreshbonesforamoreflavorfulbroth.

AddingAromaticsBonesalonewillmakeaflavorful,meaty,andversatilebroth,buttherearetimeswhenyoumaywantabrothwithamorecomplexflavor.Aromaticssuchasvegetables,herbs,andspicescanbeaddedduringcookingtoseasonthebroth.Althoughyoucanaddavarietyofaromatics,keepinmindthestockpotisnot

thelaststopbeforethecompostpile.Donotputanythinginthepotthatyouwouldnotconsidereating.Soggycarrots,oniontrimmings,wiltedherbs,orotherwiseforgottenorabusedvegetableswillyieldapoor-quality,tired-tastingbroth.Usearomaticssparinglyandaddthempartwaythroughcookingtoavoida

broththattastesoverlyvegetal.Theflavorofyouraromaticsshouldnotoverwhelmthemeatinessofyourbroth.Forexample,ifyouaremakingabeautifulroastedchickenbroth,youdonotwantcelerytobethefirstthingyoutaste.Monitortheflavorchangeswhileyourbrothissimmering.Ifthearomaticsarebecomingtooprominent,fishthemout.Carrotsandotherrootvegetablescanadddepthandsweetnesstoabroth,but

theycanalsocloudabrothwiththeirstarches.Ifyouareaimingforaclearbroth,usewholerootvegetablesanddonotsimmerthemforlongperiods.Anhourshouldsuffice.

Bouquetgarni,atermborrowedfromtheFrench,isthelittleherbbundleusedtoflavorbrothsandsoups.Atraditionalbouquetgarniconsistsofbayleavesandthymeandparsleysprigssandwichedbetweenahalfstalkofceleryandthefibrousgreentopofaleek,neatlytiedwithkitchentwineorpackagedincheesecloth.Youcanusethissametechniqueforwhateverherbsandseasoningsyouwanttoaddtoyourbroth,fromfennelfrondsandsagesprigstocilantro,ginger,andlemongrass.

Sachetd’épicesistheFrenchtermforapetitebagofspicesthatsteepsinthebrothandisthenfishedoutwhenthedesiredflavorhasbeenachieved.Youcanuseasmallmuslinbagwithadrawstringorcheeseclothtiedlikeabeggar’spursetoholdthespices.Anycombinationofspicescanbeused,dependingonthedesiredflavoring,frompeppercorns,cloves,andallspicetostaranise,cinnamon,andcoriander.

Mirepoixistheholytrinityofonions,carrots,andcelerythatisoftenaddedtoflavorbroths.Ithasmanyregionalvariationsandcanalsoincludegarlic,leeks,

celeryroot,lovage,leafcelery,orvariousgreens.Ifadarkercolorandacaramelizedflavoraredesired,youcanroastthemirepoixbeforeaddingittothebroth.

Tomato,whichcanbeaddedintheformoffreshtomato,roastedtomato,ortomatopaste,suppliescolor,flavor,andaciditytoabroth.Theacidityinthetomatoalsoassistsinextractinggelatinbypromotingthebreakdownofcartilageandconnectivetissueinthebones.

Onionbrulée,orcharredonion,impartsarichcolorandflavortothebroth.Generally,anonionispeeled,halvedcrosswise,andthenexposedtointenseheat,eithercutsidedowninasautépanorcutsideupunderabroiler,untilitisblackened.ManySoutheastAsianbrothrecipescallforasimilaronion,whichischarredwholewiththeskinintact.Aftertheskinisscorched,itispeeledtorevealapartiallycaramelizedinterior.Gingercanbeblackenedandpeeledinasimilarmannertoaddsweetpungencytoabroth.

BasicBrothMaking

1.Findtherightpot.Placethebonesinatall,narrownonreactivepot.Aheavy-bottomedstainless-steelstockpotworksbest.Ifyoucanmanageit,haveatleasttwosizesofstockpotinyourbatteriedecuisine:apotof12to14quarts(11.4to13.2L)isgreatforlargebatchesofbroth,andamedium-sizepotof5to6quarts(4.7to5.7L)ishandyforsmallerbatches.Ifyoumakebrothfrequently,considerinvestinginapotwithaspigotthatwillallowforeasystraining.Thebonesshouldfitsnuglyinyourpot,butyouwillwanttoleavethetop2to3inches(5to7.5cm)ofthepotemptytoallowforsomeexpansionandmovementduringcookingandforaddingaromatics.

2.Addcoldwater.Pourinenoughcoldwatertocoverthebonescompletely.Beginningwithcoldwaterhelpstoproduceaclearbroth.Certainproteinsthathelpwithclarification,suchasalbumin,willonlydissolveincoldwater.Leavenobonespokingabovethesurfacebutusejustenoughwatertocover.Toomuchwatercandilutetheflavorofabroth.Youmightconsiderusingfilteredwaterifyourlocaltapwaterhasflavorsyoufindoffputting.Thereisnosenseincoveringyourbeautiful,deliciousboneswithwaterthatsmacksofchlorine.

3.Simmer.Placethestockpotovermedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmer.Lowertheheatuntilyouachievealazybubble.Anunhurriedsimmer—abubblebarelybreaksthesurfaceeveryfewseconds—helpstoproduceaclearandtastybroth.Abroththatboilsturnscloudyandcanextractharsh,unwantedflavorsfromthebones.

4.Skim.Asparticulatesrisetothesurface,skimthemoffthoroughlytohelptoensureaclearanddeliciousbroth.Toremovethefrothofgray-brownimpurities,revolveasmallladletippedatagentleanglearoundthesurfaceofthebroth.Skimmingseveraltimesduringthefirsthourorsoismostimportant.Afterthat,youshouldnotneedtoskimmuch,ifatall.Donotworryaboutskimmingoffthefatthatgathersinshinypoolsonthesurface.Itaddsflavorandcanberemovedeasilyoncethebrothhasfinishedcookingandcooling.

5.Seasonwithsalt.Addjustalittlesalttoyourbroth.Therearedefinitelytwoschoolsofthoughtonthissubject.Manypeoplefeelthatabrothshouldnotbesaltednowbecauseyouwillbereducingthebrothatalaterpointandyoumightfindyourselfwithanoverlysaltedreduction.Butthebenefitsofseasoningthebrothafterskimmingitoutweightheunlikelyriskofoversalting.Addingasmallamountofsaltwillhelptobringoutallofthemeatyflavorsfromyourbones.(Itwillalsomakeiteasierforyoutotastethesubtlechangesthatoccurduringcooking.)6.Addaromatics.Shouldyoudesiretheadditionalflavorofaromatics,theycanbeaddedanytimeafterskimmingandsalting,dependingonhowmuchoftheirflavorandcoloryouwanttoimpartonthebroth.Iftheyaretobeanintegralpartofthebroth,addthemmidway.Formoresubtleflavor,addthemforthelasthourofsimmering.Carefullyprodthemintoplacebelowthesurfaceofthebroth,beingcarefulnottodisruptthebonestoomuch.

7.Donotstir.Ifaboneispokingoutwellabovethesurface,gentlynudgeitbackintothepot.Iftheliquidreducesduringcookingandthebonesbegintopokemorethan1inch(2.5cm)abovethesurface,addjustenoughwatertocoverthemagain.

8.Bepatient.Cookingtimeswillvarydependingonthetypeofbrothandyourparticularequipment,altitude,andothercircumstances.Ingeneral,a

poultrybrothshouldsimmer5to6hoursandaporkorbeefbrothshouldsimmer7hoursormore.

9.Tasteforseasoning.Ifyoutasteyourbrotheveryhourorso,youwillgaininsightintothegeneralprogressionofflavors.Thebrothisfinishedwhenyoudetermineithasachievedawell-balanced,meatyflavor.

10.Strainthefinishedbroth.Especiallyforlargebatches,strainfirstthroughacolandertoremovethebonesandotherlargebits,andthenstrainasecondtimethroughachinoisorotherfine-meshsieve.

11.Coolthebroth.Youwantthebrothtocoolasquicklyaspossible.Thelongerittakestochilldownthebroth,theshorteritsshelflifeandthegreaterthechanceofspoilage.Ladlethebrothintocleanjarsorcontainersandsetintherefrigerator,uncovered,tochill.Asthebrothchills,anyfatwillcongealonitssurface.Ifyouwillbereducingthebrothorifyoudonotwantthefatinthebroth,liftoffthefatfromthechilledbrothwithaspoon.Coverthebrothandrefrigerateforupto5daysorfreezeforupto3months.

12.Reduce.Ifyouneedaconcentrated,gelatinousbrothforuseinasauceorinthepreparationofaterrine,ifthebrothisalittlemorewaterythanyoulike,orifyouwanttostorebrothinamoreconcentratedformforconvenience,youwillwanttoreducethebroth.That’seasy.Justpourthebrothintoasaucepanandsimmeruntilthedesiredconsistencyisachieved.Generally,reducinginvolumebyone-thirdorone-halfwillproduceavoluptuous,lip-smackingreduction,perfectforsaucingaroast,bindingaterrine,oraddingrich,meatyflavortoanynumberofdishes.

BASICRICHBROTH

Abasicrichwhite(unroasted)brothisinfinitelyversatile,providinganeutralfoundationforsoups,braises,sauces,andthelike.Thisbrothcanbemadewithanyonetypeofbones,oryoucantrycombiningdifferenttypesofpoultryorpoultryandpork.Beforeyoubegin,reviewthestep-by-stepBasicBrothMakingdirections.MAKESABOUT6QUARTS(5.7L)

12pounds(5.5kg)meatybones(suchaspoultry,gamebird,rabbit,pork,beef,orlamb),cutintoabout3-inch(7.5cm)pieces1teaspoonfineseasalt,ormoretotasteAromatics(optional)

Rinsethebonesundercoldrunningwaterandplaceinalargestockpot.Addcoldwatertocoverthebonescompletely.Placethestockpotovermedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmer.Lowertheheatuntilyouachievealazybubble.Usingaladle,skimoffthefrothasitaccumulatesonthesurface.Afterthefirsthourofsimmering,addthe1teaspoonsalt.Ifyouwillbe

addingaromatics,theycanbeaddedanytimebetweennowandthelasthourofcooking.Simmerfor5to6hoursforpoultryorabout7hoursforbeef,pork,orlamb,tastingeveryhourorsotomonitortheflavordevelopment.Strainthefinishedbrothfirstthroughacolanderandthenthroughachinoisor

otherfine-meshsieve.Pourinto1-or2-quart(1or2L)containers,cooldownintherefrigerator,andthencoverandrefrigerateforupto5daysorfreezeforupto3months.

BASICRICHROASTEDBROTH

Roastingthebonesbeforesimmeringthemproducesanamberbrothwitharichroastedflavor.Youcanuseanysingletypeofbonesoracombinationofdifferenttypesofbonesyoulike,butweespeciallyliketouseduckbonesoracombinationofquail,squab,andguineahenorothergamebirdstomakethisearthy,nuancedbroth.Beforeyoubegin,reviewthestep-by-stepBasicBrothMakingdirections.MAKESABOUT6QUARTS

(5.7L)

12pounds(5.5kg)meatybones(suchaspoultry,gamebird,rabbit,pork,beef,orlamb,oracombination),cutintoabout3-inch(7.5cm)pieces1teaspoonfineseasalt,ormoretotasteAromatics(optional)

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Spreadthepreparedbonesinasinglelayer,withoutcrowding,inaroastingpanorheavybakingsheet.Roastthebonesuntiltheyareagoldenbrown.Thiscantakefrom45minutestoover1hour.Removethepanfromtheovenandtransferthebonestoalargestockpot.Addcoldwatertocoverthebonescompletely.Placethestockpotover

medium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmer.Lowertheheatuntilyouachievealazybubble.Usingaladle,skimoffthefrothasitaccumulatesonthesurface.Afterthefirsthourofsimmering,addthe1teaspoonsalt.Ifyouwillbe

addingaromatics,theycanbeaddedanytimebetweennowandthelasthourofcooking.Simmerfor5to6hoursforpoultryorabout7hoursforbeef,pork,orlamb,tastingeveryhourorsotomonitortheflavordevelopment.Strainthefinishedbrothfirstthroughacolanderandthenthroughachinoisor

otherfine-meshsieve.Pourinto1-or2-quart(1or2L)containers,cooldownintherefrigerator,andthencoverandrefrigerateforupto5daysorfreezeforupto3months.

PORKANDDUCKNOODLESOUPBROTH

WhenwemovedfromurbanOakland,California,withitssurfeitofamazingnoodlejoints,totheruralNapaValley,wefoundourselvesjonesingforthosebig,steamingbowlsoflong,tendernoodlesswimminginavibrantlyseasonedbroth.Westartedmakinggallonsofthisall-purposenoodlesoupbrothtokeeponhandforthosenightswhenwearealmosttootiredtocook.Onceyouhavethisbrothonhand,allyouneedtodoistossinsomenoodlesoranegg,afewslicesofleftoverroastporkorduck,andsomechoppedgreenonions,mushrooms,orgreensandyouhaveasimple,satisfyingmealinalmostnotimeatall.Beforeyoubegin,reviewthestep-by-stepBasicBrothMakingdirections.MAKESABOUT6

QUARTS(5.7L)

6pounds(2.7kg)mixedduckbones(suchasfeet,heads,wings,andbacks)6pounds(2.7kg)mixedporkbones(suchasshank,trotter,andhead),cutinto3-inch(7.5cm)piecesFineseasaltand/orVietnamesefishsauce3-inch(7.5cm)piecefreshginger,thicklysliced1largeyellowonion,halvedAbout2ounces(55g)Vietnameseyellowrocksugar1bunchgreenonions,greentopsonly(optional)3to4freshordriedchiles(optional)Smallhandfulofdriedsquidorshrimp,lightlyrinsed(optional)

Rinsethebonesundercoldrunningwaterandplaceinalargestockpot.Addcoldwatertocoverthebonescompletely.Placethestockpotovermedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmer.Lowertheheatuntilyouachievealazybubble.Usingaladle,skimthefrothasitaccumulatesonthesurface.Afterthefirsthourofsimmering,addasmallamountofsaltand/orfishsauce

totaste.Then,onebyone,addtheginger,onion,rocksugar,oniontops,chiles,andsquid,carefullyproddingthembelowthesurfaceofthebroth.Simmerfor5to6hours,tastingeveryhourorso.Strainthefinishedbrothfirstthroughacolanderandthenthroughachinoisor

otherfine-meshsieve.Pourinto1-or2-quart(1or2L)containers,cooldownintherefrigerator,andthencoverandrefrigerateforupto5daysorfreezeforupto3months.

CrespelleandChanterelleMushroomsinGameBirdBroth

CRESPELLEANDCHANTERELLEMUSHROOMSINGAMEBIRDBROTH

TendercrepesstuffedwithfragrantwildmushroomsliftarobustgamebirdbrothtoanewlevelofsophisticationinthisItalianclassic.Thisbrothisaperfectprimoforanelegantmeal.Boththecrepesandthefillingcanbemadeadayaheadandwarmedjustbeforeserving.SERVES

4TO6

CREPEBATTER

4eggs¾cup(180ml)wholemilk½cup(65g)

unbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonfineseasalt¼cup(30g)gratedParmesancheeseFILLING

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsmincedgarlic1pound(450g)chanterellemushrooms,trimmedandquarteredFineseasalt¼cup(60ml)dryMarsala1tablespoonchoppedfreshthyme2tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley¾cup(85g)gratedParmesancheese2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter12cups(2.8L)gamebirdbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)¼cup(60ml)dryMarsalaFineseasaltChoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyorgratedParmesancheese,forgarnish

Topreparethebatter,inabowl,whisktogethertheeggsandmilkuntilblended.Slowlywhiskintheflour,salt,andParmesan.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.

Tomakethefilling,inasautépan,meltthebutterovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandsautéuntillightlycolored.Addthechanterellesandsautéfor6to8minutes,untiltheyhavereleasedtheirliquid.Seasonwithsaltandsautéfor1to2minutesmore,untilthechanterellesaretenderandlightlybrowned.Addthe¼cup(60ml)Marsalaandthethymeandparsleyandcookforaminuteortwo,untilthepanisnearlydry.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Scrapethecontentsofthepanontoacuttingboardandchopfinely.Transfer

toabowl,addtheParmesan,andmixwell.Tocookthecrepes,ina6-inch(15cm)skilletorcrepepan,meltthebutter

overlowheat.Pouroffthemostofthebutterintoaramekinandreserveforlateruse,leavingbehindjustenoughtocoatthepan.Turnuptheheattomedium.Ladleabout¼cup(60ml)ofthebatterintothepan,tiltingandrotatingtheskillettodistributethebatterevenlyinthepan.Cookfor1to2minutes,untilthetopbeginstodryandthebottomisgolden.Usingarubberspatula,carefullyflipthecrepeoverandcookthesecondsideforabout30secondsmore.Turnthecrepeoutontoaplattertocool.Brushthepanlightlywithsomeofthereservedbutterandcontinuemakingcrepeswiththeremainingbatter,stackingthecrepesastheyarecooked.Youshouldhaveroughly12crepesinall.Toserve,inasaucepan,bringthebrothtoasimmerovermediumheat.Add

theremaining¼cup(60ml)ofMarsalaandseasonwithsalt.Spreadanequalamountofthefillingonthecenterofeachcrepeandrollup

thecrepe.Whenallofthecrepesarefilled,place2or3rolledcrepesintoeachwarmedsoupbowl.Ladlethehotbrothoverthefilledcrepes.Garnishwithparsleyandserveimmediately.

CreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorino

CREAMYSEMOLINAWITHROASTEDCHICKENBROTH,GREENS,ANDPECORINO

Durum-wheatsemolina,acoarse,high-proteinflourmilledfromtheendospermofwheat,isoftenusedformakingpastadough,pizzadough,andbreakfastporridge.Whiskalittleintoroastedchickenbrothandyouinstantlyhaveasilky,savorysoup.Garnishedwithcookedgreensandnuttypecorinocheese,thissoupisrusticandsatisfying.SERVES4TO6

2tablespoonsoliveoil2tablespoonschoppedgarlic1largebunchSwisschardorspinach,stemmedandchoppedFineseasalt8cups(2L)roastedchickenbroth(seeBasicRichRoastedBroth)½cup(80g)durum-wheatsemolina4tablespoons(55g)unsaltedbutter,cubed1½cups(170g)gratedpecorinocheese,plusmoreforserving

First,preparethegreens.Inasautépan,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandsautéforabout2minutes,untilfragrantandgolden.Addthechardorspinach,seasonwithsalt,andcookuntilwiltedandtender.Turnoutontoacuttingboardandletcool.Lightlypressoutanyexcessliquid,thenchopfinely.Inalargesaucepan,heatthebrothovermedium-highheattoalivelysimmer.

Whilewhiskingconstantlytoavoidlumps,slowlysiftinthesemolina.Whenallofthesemolinahasbeenincorporated,lowertheheatandcook,stirringfrequently,forabout20minutes,untilthesemolinaiscooked.Stirinthebutterandthe1½cups(170g)cheese,followedbythegreens,and

continuetostiruntilthoroughlycombinedandheatedthrough.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Ladleintowarmedindividualbowls,dustwithadditionalcheese,andserveimmediately.

ConvenientConfits

Theprocessofpreparingconfits—salting,slowcooking,andsealingmeatunderasnowyblanketoffat—hasbeenusedforcenturieswithsilky,succulentresults.Nolarderiscompletewithoutafewcrocksofconfit.Theyaretheultimatetraditionalconveniencefood,providingthefoundationforadeliciousmealatamoment’snotice.Scoopthemstraightfromthecrockandcrispthemupinapan,usethemtomakerillettesandotherhorsd’oeuvres,oraddthemtosoups,salads,orcassoulet,biensur!

Confiremeans“topreserve.”Inadditiontobeingdelicious,confitsalsohavethebenefitofbeinglongkeeping.Beforetheadventofrefrigeration,preparingconfitswasawaytopreventmeatfromspoiling.Inmostcases,theprocessbeginsbysaltingthemeatadayaheadoftimetoaddflavorandextractmoisture.Thenthemeatissubmergedcompletelyinfatandcookedslowly.Afterward,thecookedmeatiscooledandstoredfullyshroudedinitscookingfat.Thedensefatcreatesasealaroundthemeatthatpreventsairandlightfrompenetratingandkeepsbacteriafromthriving,holdingthemeatinasortofsuspendedanimation.Properlypreparedmeatconfitswillkeepformanymonths,untilyouarereadytousethem.

BasicConfitMaking

1.Selectthemeat.Itisadecadentconcept,butalmostanymeatcouldbemadeintoconfit.Duck,goose,andporkarecertainlythemostcommoncandidates,butthemethodcanbeappliedwithdeliciousresultstoturkey,gamebirds,rabbit,andevensausages.Cutsthataretypicallybraised,toughcuts,orcutswithlotsofconnectivetissuebenefitthemostfromthelong,slowsimmeringinfat.

2.Seasonthemeat.Alongwithvastlyimprovingtheflavorofaconfit,seasoningisalsokeytopreservation.Saltdrawsthemoistureoutofthemeat,loweringitswateractivitytoalevelthatinhibitsthegrowthofharmfulbacteria.Inadditiontosalt,youcanalsouseavarietyofspicesandherbstoseasonyourconfit.Formosttypesofconfit,youwillwanttoseasonthemeatonedayinadvanceofcooking.(Theexceptiontothiswouldbesausageoranothersimilarhighlyseasonedmeat.)Onedayahead,rubthemeatwithsaltandotherseasoningsandrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,drainoffanyaccumulatedliquid.

3.Coverwithfat.Itisoftensaidthatconfitsaremadefrommeatsthatarecooked“intheirownfat,”butthisiseitherfancifulorapoorunderstandingoftheprocess.Youneedagenerousamountoffattomakeconfits,muchmorethanyouwouldlikelyyieldfromasingleduckorthetrimmingsfromaporkshoulder.Whenyouaremakingconfits,youwillwanttohaveplentyofextrafatonhand.

Generally,recipesforduckconfitwillcallforduckfat,andrecipesforporkconfitwillcallforporkfat.Butitisnotnecessarytosegregatebyanimaloforigin.Forexample,youcanuseporkfat,orevenamixofporkandduckfat,tomaketurkeyorrabbitconfit.Justbeawarethatthefatyouusewillimpartflavortothemeat,soavoidpairingstronglyflavoredfats,suchaslamb,withmild-flavoredmeats,suchasduckorpork.Thefatsusedinmakingconfitscanbereusedforseveralbatchesofconfitorrepurposedforcooking.Ifyouhaveusedafatforseveralgenerationsofconfitanditbeginstoappeargrainy,separatesslightly,andwillnotbecomefirmwhenchilled,itisnolongerusefulformakingconfits.Itcanstillbesavedforroastingvegetablesorformakingrillettes.Whenyouarereadytocookyourconfit,placethemeatinadeep,sturdypot—preferablyonewithafittedlid,largeenoughtocontainthemeatinasinglelayerwithouttoomuchoverlapping.Addtherenderedfat,submergingthemeatcompletely.Thereshouldbenobonesprotrudingabovethesurfaceofthefat.

4.Cookitslowly.Mostconfitswillneedtocookforseveralhoursataverylowtemperature,225°Fto250°F(110°Cto120°C).Forthisreason,itisbesttocookaconfitintheoven,whereitiseasiertomaintainconsistentheat.Themeatshouldcookuntilitismeltinglytender,thatis,untilitseparateseffortlesslywithaforkandthemeatonabonepullsawayfromthebonewithlittleresistance.Oncedone,removethepotfromtheovenandallowthemeattocoolinthefat.

5.Sealit.Theconfitcanbeeatenimmediately,butitisbetterifitisstoredunderalayeroffatandallowedtoripen.Ifyouplanonusingtheconfitwithinaweek,itcanbestoredasisinitscookingvessel,aslongasthemeatisthoroughlysubmergedinthefat.Forlongerstorage,carefullystrainoffthecookingfatintoaclearcontainer.Asthefatcools,particlesandanyliquidorgeléegivenoffbythemeatwillsettleonthebottom.Transferthemeattoaclean,drystoragevessel,suchasalargeglassjarorcrockwithalid.Ladlejustthefat(seeHarvestingandUsingGelée)overthemeatuntilitiscompletelysubmerged.Ideally,thefatshouldtopthemeatbyabout1inch(2.5cm).Awell-sealedjarofconfitmaybekeptintherefrigeratorforupto6months.Labelanddateyourconfitcontainerstohelpyourememberwhentouseit.

HARVESTINGANDUSINGGELÉE

Geléeisthehighlyseasoned,richliquidpulledoutofsaltedmeatsastheycookslowlyinfat.Whenthefatisstrainedintoacontainer,thegeléewillsettleinthebottom.Ladleoffthefatanduseittosealtheconfitorforcooking,andpourthegeléeintoasmall,cleancontainer.Itcanbekeptrefrigeratedforuptoaweekorfrozenforuptoafewmonths.Inthecharcuterie,thegeléeishighlyprizedforitspowerful,concentratedflavors.AttheFattedCalf,weusethegeléeharvestedfromduckconfittoseasonducklivermousseandotherterrines.Porkgeléemakesanexcellentbinderforroaststuffingsandcanbeusetoenhancetheflavorofsoups,stews,andbeandishes,aswell.

SAUSAGECONFIT

Atfirstglance,preservingsausageinporkfatmightseemabitexcessive.Thebeautyofusingthistechniqueisthatitactuallyimprovestheflavorandtextureofthesausage,whereasfreezingsausagedoesnogoodforeither.Therelationshipbetweenthesausageandtheporkfatissymbiotic,aswell.Thesausageimbuesthefatwithspicesandgarlic,resultinginaflavorfulfatthatcanbeusedtoenrichbeans,roastpotatoes,orsweatvegetablesforsoup.Youcanconfitanytypeoffreshuncookedsausage.Theymakeagreat

additiontoClassicCassoulet,ortheyarewonderfulsimplybrownedandservedalongsideacreamypotatopuree.MAKESABOUT4QUARTS(3.8L)

3quarts(2.8L)lard2½pounds(1.2kg)sausagesinporkcasings

Preheattheovento275°F(135°C).Meltthelardinaroomy,wide,heavypotorinadeep,liddedcasseroleoverlowheat.Onceitiscompletelymelted,gentlydropthesausagesintothepotandstironcetopreventthemfromstickingtogether.Lidthepotandplaceintheovenfor2hours.Removethepotfromtheoven,takeoffthelid,andletcoolatroom

temperaturefor30minutes.Transferthesausagestoalarge,cleanceramiccrockorglassjarsforstorage.Strainthefatthroughafine-meshstrainerintoacleancontainerandallowittocoolsothegeléesettlesonthebottom.Ladleonlythecookingfatoverthesausagestocoverbyabout1inch(2.5cm)andrefrigerate.Reservethegeléeanduseasdirected.Checkthefatlevelafter2to3hours,asthelevelcandropastheconfitchills.

Addmorefatifnecessary,thencovertightly,label,anddate.Submergedinfat,thesausageswillkeepforupto6months.Tousetheconfit,removefromtherefrigeratorandletstandforabout1hour

toallowthefattosoften.Scoopawaythetoplateroffatandgentlypryawaythedesirednumberofsausages.Ifyouarenotusingallofthesausagesatonce,makesurethatanyleftinthecrockarefullysubmergedinfatbeforereturningthemtotherefrigerator.

WholeDuckConfit

WHOLEDUCKCONFIT

Manyduckconfitrecipescallforonlythelegs,butweprefertousewholeduck.Althoughyoudon’tactuallyconfittheentireduck—justthewings,legs,andgizzards—usingwholebirdsisabitmoreeconomicalandagreatwaytopracticeyourbutcheringskills.Asabonus,youalsoyieldbonesthatcanbeusedtomakeadeliciousduckbrothandfreshduckbreasts,perfectforgrillingorsearing.Thisrecipecanbeeasilyadaptedtosuitlegs,gizzards,orwingsbythemselves.Trustyourinstinctswhenmakingduckconfit.Rememberthatevery

oven,pot,wing,leg,andgizzardbehavedifferently.Thecookingtimesincludedhereareroughestimates,soyouwillneedtorelyonyoursenses.Thankfully,duckconfitisextremelyforgiving.Ifthewingsorlegsendupovercooked,theycanalwaysbeturnedintorillettes,amostdeliciouserror.MAKESABOUT6QUARTS(5.7L)

CONFITSEASONING

2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns5allspiceberries2cloves

¼teaspoonfinelygrounddriedginger1cup(200g)fineseasaltCONFIT

2wholeduckswithgiblets1bunchthyme3bayleaves3juniperberries3quarts(2.8L)renderedduckfat,melted

ButchertheducksfollowingtheinstructionsforBirdontheBone.Thelegs,thefirstjointofthewings(alsoknownasthedrumette),andthegizzardswillallbeusedtopreparetheconfit.Reservetheremainingpartsanduseasdescribedintheheadnote.Usingthetipofasmall,sharpknife,removethesilverskinfromthegizzards.

Weighthelegs,drumettes,andgizzardsseparatelyandplacetheminseparateshallowcontainerslargeenoughtoavoidcrowdingoroverlapping.Overcrowdingcanleadtounevenlyseasonedconfit.Preparetheconfitseasoning.Finelygrindthepeppercorns,allspice,andclove

andmixwiththegingerandsalt.Calculatetheamountofconfitseasoningyouwillneedforeachpart.Foreverypound(450g)oflegsandwings,youwillneed2teaspoonsconfitseasoning.Gizzards,becausetheyareboneless,requireonly¾teaspoonperpound(450g).Sprinkletheconfitseasoningevenlyoverthemeatineachcontainer,usingalittlemoreonthethickerpartsofthelegsanddrumettes.Oncealltheseasoninghasbeendispersed,turneachpieceafewtimestomakesuretheseasoningiswelldistributed.Wrapeachcontainertightlyandrefrigeratefor12to14hours.Preheattheovento250°F(120°C)degrees.Quicklyrinseeachlegandwing

undercoolrunningwater,justenoughtoremoveanyundissolvedseasoning.Lightlypatthemdry.Drainthegizzardsbutdonotrinse.Placethewings,legs,andgizzardsintotheirowndeepovenproofcasseroleorheavypot.Eachvesselmustbewideenoughtoaccommodatethemeatinasinglesnuglayer.Putafewthymesprigs,1bayleaf,and1juniperberryintoeachpot,andcoverthemeatscompletelywiththeduckfat.Lideachvesselorcovertightlywithaluminumfoil,andslideallofthepots

intotheoven.After30minuteshavepassed,checkeachpottoensurethatthemeatiscompletelysubmergedinduckfat.Ifanypiecesarestickingout,addenoughfattosubmerge.After1½hourshavepassed,removethewingsandgizzardsfromtheoven

andtestfordoneness:Usingaslottedspoon,transferawingandagizzardtoaplateandletcoolslightly.(Meatstraightoutofthefatwilloftenfeeltough.Itisbesttogiveitamomenttocooltoensureanaccurateread.)Ideally,themeatonthewingsshouldbesoftandpliablebutnotfallingoffthebone.Thegizzardsgenerallycookatthesamerateasthewings.Totest,usingaparingknife,cutthegizzardinhalfcrosswise.Cutasmallsliveroffofahalfandtaste.Thenaturaltextureofgizzardsisquitedense,butitshouldbetenderandnotallrubbery.Ifeitherrequireslongercooking,returnittothepot,re-cover,andcontinuecookingfor15to20minuteslonger.Ingeneral,thelegsneedtocookabouttwiceaslongasthewingsand

gizzards,anywherefrom2to4hours,dependingontheirsize.Thelegsaredonewhenthemeatstartstopullawayfromtheboneslightlyandshredseasilywithafork.Whenthewings,gizzards,andlegsaredone,letthemcooltoroom

temperatureintheirpots.Theycannowbeeatenrightawayortheycanbestoredunderalayeroffat.Havereadyalarge,cleanceramiccrockorglassjarwithalid.(Alternatively,useseveralsmallerjars.)Ladlefattoadepthof1inch

(2.5cm)intothebottomofthecrock.Usingaslottedspoon,removethelegs,gizzards,andwingsfromthepotsandarrangetheminthecrock.Strainthefatfromeachpotthroughafine-meshstrainerintoasinglecleancontainertoremoveseasoningsorothersolids.Allowthefattocoolsothegeléesettlesonthebottom.Ladleonlythecookingfatoverthemeatstocoverbyabout1inch(2.5cm),andrefrigerate.Reservethegeléeanduseasdirected.Checkthefatlevelafter2to3hours,asthelevelcandropastheconfitchills.

Addmorefatifnecessary,thencovertightly,label,anddate.Submergedinfat,thewings,gizzards,andlegswillkeepforabout6monthsbutaregenerallyattheirpeakofflavorbetween1and2months.Tousetheconfit,removefromtherefrigeratorandletstandforabout1hour

toallowthefattosoften.Scoopawaythetoplayeroffatandgentlypryawaythedesirednumberofpieces.Ifyouarenotusingallofthepiecesatonce,makesurethatanyleftinthecrockarefullysubmergedinfatbeforereturningthemtotherefrigerator.

ClassicCassoulet

CLASSICCASSOULET

Cassouletisrusticcountrycookingatitsfinest.Itscomplexityisderivednotfromoverlycomplicatedcookingproceduresbutfromthemanylayersofflavorcontributedbyitsvariousingredients.Thatsaid,awell-madecassouletrequiresplanningandcantakethebetterpartofaweekendtoassemble.Butwithonebiteofcrispycrust,creamybeans,andtendermeat,youwillknowitwastimewellspent.Thedifficult-to-findTarbaisbeanisthemostcommonlyusedbeanfor

cassouletinFrance.Good-qualitycannellinibeansareagreatsubstitute,however.Wehavetestedthetwobeanssidebysideinduelingcassouletsandhavefoundtheyworkequallywell.SERVES8

1pound(450g)driedTarbaisorcannellinibeans,pickedoverandrinsed8ounces(225g)porkskinwithalittlefat½yellowonion,plus2cups(340g)minced1driedbayleafFineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper2pounds(900g)crosscutporkshanks(about2inches/5cmthick)½cup(115g)renderedduckfat½cup(70g)dicedbaconorpancetta,homemade(seeBrownSugar–CuredBaconorPancettaArrotolata)orstore-bought1cup(140g)peeledandfinelydicedcarrot¼cup(40g)finelychoppedgarlic2cups(500g)tomatopuree8cups(2L)duckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)1bouquetgarni(bay,thyme,parsley,celery)4duckconfitlegs,separatedatthejointintothighandleg2pounds(900g)SausageConfit(preferablyToulousesausage)2cups(115g)freshbreadcrumbs

Topreparethebeans,placetheminalargebowlwithplentyofcoldwaterand

letsoakovernight.Thenextday,drainanddiscardthewater.Placethebeansinasaucepanandaddtheporkskin,½onion,bay,andwatertocoverbyatleast2inches(5cm).Placeovermedium-lowheat,bringtoasimmer,andcook,uncovered,untilalmosttender.Thiscantakefrom1½to3hours,socheckregularlyfordonenessafterthefirsthour.Seasonthebeanswithsaltandcontinuetocookfor20to30minutes,oruntil

theyhaveacreamyconsistencybutstillretaintheirshape.Removefromtheheatandletthebeanscoolintheirliquor.(Thebeanscanbecookedupto2daysinadvanceandstoredintheirliquor.Covertightlyandrefrigerate.)Topreparetheporkshanks,placetheminasinglelayerinawide,shallowdishandseasonliberallyonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,blottheporkdry.Inawide,heavypot,heathalfoftheduckfatovermedium-highheat.Addasmanyshankstothepanaswillfitcomfortablyinasinglelayerwithoutcrowdingandbrownevenlyonallsides.Transfertoaplateandrepeatwiththeremainderoftheshanks.Addthebacon,mincedonion,carrot,andgarlictothesamepotandsautéover

mediumheat,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,untiltheonionistranslucent.Seasonwithsalt,thenaddthetomatopuree,stirwell,andcookfor2moreminutes.Pourinthebrothandaddthebouquetgarniandbrownedshanksalongwithanyrestingjuices.Bringtoasimmer,tastethebraisingliquorforseasoning,andadjustifnecessary.Cover,turndowntheheattolow,andsimmergently,stirringoccasionally,for1½hoursto2hours,untilthemeatistenderandbeginstopullawayfromthebone.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoroomtemperature.(Theporkcanbepreparedupto2daysinadvanceandstoredinitsbroth.Covertightlyandrefrigerate.)Toassemblethecassoulet,preheattheovento300°F(150°C).Drainthebeans,reserving2cups(480ml)ofthecookingliquidandthecookedskin.Dicetheskininto¼-inch(6mm)squaresandsetaside.Setthebeans,theliquid,andtheskinasideseparately.Spoonabouthalfofthebeansintothebottomofacassole(earthenware

bakingdishwithflaredsides)orotherlargebakingdish.Arrangetheduckconfitandbraisedporkontopofthebeansandaddthereservedbraisingliquid.Topwiththeremainingbeans.Bakethecassouletfor1½hours.Inalargeskillet,heattheremainingduckfatovermediumheat.Addthe

sausagesandbrownwellonallsides.Removethepanfromtheheat.Transferthesausagestoaplate.Addthebreadcrumbstothepanandstirtoabsorbthecookingfat,coatingthecrumbsevenly.Removethecassouletfromtheovenandstirverygently.Nestlethebrowned

sausagesbeneaththesurfaceofthebeans.Ifthetoplayerseemsalittledry,moistenwiththereservedbeancookingliquidasneeded.Spreadthebreadcrumbsandporkskinevenlyoverthetop.Returnthecassoulettotheovenandbakefor1to1½hourslonger,untilrichly

brownedonthesurface.Removefromtheovenandletrestforabout15minutesbeforeserving.

B

3

INTHEBUTCHERSHOP

eforeyoucancrankoutgreatsausage,youmustfirstlearnhowtoselectgood-qualitymeatsandhowtopreparethemproperly.Tomakeagorgeousgalantine,youmustbeabletoboneabirddeftly.Tomastercreamyducklivermousse,youmustfirstcleanaheapofduckliver.Ifyouwanttocreatesuperbcharcuterie,youmustbeabletodiscernqualitymeatandpossesstheabilitytoperformsimplebutchery.Thebutchershopistheplacetobegin.

GetTheetoaButcherShop

Ifyouvaluequality(andyoushouldforavarietyofreasonsdetailedinthischapter),skipthemeatwingofthebig-boxstoreoreverydaysupermarketandseekoutagoodlocalbutcher.Afirst-ratebutcherwillsourcefreshmeatsfromsustainablyraisedanimals,preferablyfromnearbyfarms.Heorshewillhaveatleastsomewholeanimalsonhandandwillbeabletoproducethecustomcutsyouneed.Iftheporkcheekorlambbellyyouarelookingforisnotinstock,agoodbutcherwillhelpyoutoprocureit.Whatyougetfromagoodbutchershopthatyoucan’tgetfromachainstoreispersonalizedservice,attentiontosourcingandfreshness,andawealthofinformationaboutcuttingandcookingmeat.

Chefsarefondofsayingthatamessyworkstationequalsamessymind,andwethinkthatdictumholdstrueforbutchers,aswell.Althoughnoteverybutcherisblessedwithaflairforfanningoutduckbreastsorfrenchingporkracks,anattractive,orderly,well-tendeddisplayisoftenevidenceofhowmuchattentionabutcherpaysthemeatonadailybasis.Ifyouwanttoappraisethequalityandfreshnessofsomethingondisplay,agoodbutcherwillallowyoutoexaminethemeatatcloserange.Varietyisgreat,butanoft-rotatedsmallselectionoffreshmeatswilldojust

fine.Don’texpectagoodbutchertohaveeverythingyouneedallofthetime.Infact,thebestbutcherswilloftenrunoutofcutsorwon’tkeepmoreunusualitemsinstockonaregularbasis.Runningoutnowandthenisactuallyagoodthing.Itindicatesthatastrongdemandandafreshsupplyexist.Learnyourbutcher’stelephonenumberandremembertocallaheadtofindoutwhatisgreatthisweekortoplacespecialordersforthemeatsyouneed.Shopinadvancewheneverpossible.Ifyouneedonlyafewlambchopsfora

weeknightsupper,youcanusuallystopbyyourlocalbutchershopthatsameday.Butifyouareplanningadayofsausagemakingorwanttopreparearoastforadinnerparty,besuretoplanandshopahead:you’llneedtogiveyourbutcherenoughnoticetogathertheitemsyouwant,andyou’llrequireplentyoftimeforbothseasoningandprepping.Qualityandexpertisecostmoney.Bewarethebargainbutcher.Intheworldof

meat,yougetwhatyoupayfor.Ifyouarebudgetconscious,agoodbutcherwillbeabletoofferyouchoicesinyourpricerange—eveniftheyaren’tthefiletmignonorporktenderloinyouinitiallyhadinmind.Untrimmedwholecutsareoftenmorecost-effectivethanportionedandroast-readymeats.Manyofthelessglamorousmeats,suchasshanksandshouldercuts,requireextratimeandeffortinthekitchenbutareextremelydeliciouswhenthoughtfullyprepared.Goodbutchersworkfortheloveofmeatandcantalkmeatalmostendlessly.

Whileitpaystodoalittlehomeworkbeforecrossingthethresholdintothebutchershop,agoodbutcherwillbeabletosteeryoutowardaffordable,deliciouscutsthatsuityourneeds.Whetheryouarecuriousabouttheprovenanceofthemeat,needarefresheroncuttingandcookingtechniques,orjustwantsomenew-fangledsuggestionsforthatsameoldproblemofwhattofixfordinner,agoodbutcherwillhaveananswer—orthree.

GoStraighttotheSourceGoodmeatcomesfromgoodfarms.Anothergreatoptionforsupplementing

yourmeatsupplyistosourcemeatdirectlyfromalocalfarmthatraisesanimalsinasustainablemanner,thatis,whereanimalsarepastured,areallowedtomoveaboutfreely,andarenotregularlytreatedwithantibiotics.Youcansupportyourcommunity’slocalfarmsbyjoiningameatCSA(community-supportedagricultureassociation),shoppingatfarmers’markets,orbuyingawholeanimalshare.Youwilloftengettointeractdirectlywiththefarmerandgetaprettygoodideaofhowtheanimalwasraised,whatitwasfed,andhowitwasslaughtered.Keepinmindthatyouwillneedtobeflexiblewhenyougothisroute.Most

farmersarenotbutchers,andtheycannotofferthehugevarietyandspecialtyservicethatabutchercan.Often,themeatcomesinamore“natural”state:largercuts,wholeanimalsandbirds,orbone-incutswithskinandfatintact.Buyingstraightfromafarmerisagreatexcusetopracticeyourbutcheryskillsinordertogettheexactcutsyouwant.

MeatbyMailNogoodbutchershoporlocallyraisedmeatinyourneckofthewoods?Well,hallelujahfortheWorldWideWeb.ThesedaysyoucanordereverythingfromRedWattlepigtailstoRedBourbonturkeysdeliveredstraighttoyourdoorstep,oftendirectfromthefarmorslaughterhouse.Thisisanespeciallygreatoptionifyouresideinaremoteareaandaretryingtotrackdownspecialtyitemssuchassausagecasings,caulfat,orlambtongues.SeeSourcesforrecommendationsforgoodmail-ordermeat.

Do-It-YourselfButchery

Formeatenthusiasts,butcheringisfun,educational,andeconomical.Withalittleplanningandeffort,youcanyieldallofthecutsyouwantforcharcuterieandthensome.Whatevertypeofhomebutcheryyouchoosetoundertake,hereareafewthingstokeepinmind.

Startsmall.Thisisespeciallytrueifyouarejustbeginningtowieldabutcher’sknife.Smallcreatures,suchaspoultryandrabbit,haverelativelysimpleskeletalstructuresandcanbeeasilybutchered,withminimaleffort.Onceyouhavealittleexperienceunderyourbelt,youmightadvancetoaporkprimal,agoat,orevenhalfofahog.

Sharpenyourknives.Usingdullknivesmakesfortediousandpotentially

dangerouswork.Forlargebutcheryprojects,makesurethatyoursawbladesaresharpandreplaceifnecessary.

Makeaplan.Ifyouaspiretocutupawholehogtoproduceyourownbacon,sausages,andterrines,aplanofactioniscrucial.Youdon’twanttoendupwithmoreroastingcutsthanyoucanreasonablyuseorstore.Likewise,youdon’twanttofindyourselfwithmoresausagemeatandcuringcutsthanyoucanrealisticallyprocessinatimelyfashion.Writeyourselfa“cutsheet,”alistofallofthecutsyouwanttobutcheralongwiththecorrespondingamountsinordertohelpyoutostayorganized.Ifyouplanonbriningordrycuringanyofthecuts,suchaspicnichamsorbacon,makethebrinesanddryrubsinadvance.

Prepyourhomebutchery.Forsmallbutcheryprojectssuchasduckorrabbit,procureadedicatedmeatcuttingboardthatisatleasttwiceaslargeasthecarcasstoallowyoutocutcomfortably.Forlargerprojects,youwillwantafreestandingbutcherblockorsturdyworktabletoppedwithtwoormorelargecuttingboards.Considerlayingatarpunderyourworkareatomakecleanupeasier.(Tarpsarealsohandyfortransportingthewholebeast.)Regardlessofthesizeofyourbutcheringproject,setupallofthenecessaryequipmentbeforehandforthesakeofefficiencyandcleanliness.Youwanttohaveonhandplasticwrap,butcherpaper,tape,largefreezerbagsifyouwillbefreezinganycuts,aprons,towels,butcher’stwine,knives,andasaw,ifnecessary.Refrigerationorfreezerspacemustbereadilyavailable,oratleastafewicechestsandplentyofice.It’sgoodtohavetwoormorecontainersonhandforcutsandscraps.Ifyouwillbegeneratingbones,haveyourstockpotorroastingpannearby.

Worktogether.Cuttingupawholepig,lamb,orgoatisabigprojectthatwillyieldalotofmeat.Considerjoiningforceswithothermeatenthusiaststolightentheworkloadandsharethefruitsofyourlabor.

KNIVESYOUREALLYNEED

Whetheryouwillbebreakingdownawholehogtomakebaconandsalamiorjustbreakingdownachickentobraiseforsupper,afewsharp,well-madekniveswillhelpyoutogetthejobdonesafelyandefficiently.

Bonesaw:Availableinavarietyoflengths(usually16to25inches/40.5to63.5cm),asturdybutcher’ssawisdesignedtocutthroughlargebones,makingitindispensableforwhole-carcassbutchery.

Boningknife:Thisisprobablythemostutilizedknifeinthebutchershop.Itsnarrow,medium-lengthblade,whichgenerallycurvesinward,isusedtoremovemeatandpoultryfromthebone,anditssharp,taperedpointisusedtotrimfatandcuttendons.

Butcher’sknifeorcimeter:Thelong,substantialbladewithacurvedsilhouetteisusedtoportionmeatsandslicethroughskin,cartilage,andsmallbones.

Chef’sknife:Aversatileworkhorsewithalong,wideblade,thechef’sknifeisusedforslicingandchoppingofallkinds.

Honingsteel:Alsoknownasasharpeningsteel,thislonghandledrodofsteelorceramichelpsmaintainanedgebetweensharpeningbladeswithasharpeningstone.

Meatcleaver:Thecleaver’sheavy,widerectangularbladeisdesignedtocutthroughbonesandlargerpiecesofmeat.

Poultryshears:Thecurvedbladesoftheseshearsallowyoutocutsafelyandeasilythroughthejointsandbonesofpoultrywithouttearingtheskinandflesh.

Rubbermallet:Thisprimitivebutextraordinarilyusefultoolisgoodfortappingacleaversafelythroughhard-to-breakbonesandforflatteningporkbelliesforpancetta.

Sharpeningstone:Thissimple,traditionaltool,alsoknownasawhetstone,isusedtorestorethebladeofanyknifewhenitsedgebecomesdull.

Fromleft:poultryshears,honingsteel,meatcleaver,sausageknife,cimeter,chef’sknife,utilityknife,

paringknife

Birds

Whocanresistthearomaofsucculentroastduck,itscrispyskinglistening,beggingyoutotakeabite?Or,whocansaynotoachickensimmeringinapot,effusingitscomfortingaroma?Fromplumplittlequailsizzlingonthegrilltoagrand,gratitude-inspiringturkeyonyourholidaytable,theworldofpoultryisdiverseanddelicious.Birdswerefirstdomesticatedsometenthousandyearsago.Many

archeologistsbelievethefirstdomesticatedbird,thechicken,mayhavebeen

rearedforsport,notsupper.Butitdidn’ttakelongforhumanstocatchontothedeliciousdishestheyweremissing,andsoonenoughchickens,ducks,andotherpoultrywerebeingraisedforbotheggsandmeat.BirdswerepopularwiththeancientRomans,whoseculinaryinnovationsincludedtheomeletaswellasstuffingbirdsforcooking.Untilthe1950s,mostpoultryintheUnitedStateswasraisedonsmallfamily

farmswherethebirdsscratched,pecked,andhuntedforafairrationoftheirownfood.Thentheinventionofantibiotic-andvitamin-fortifiedpoultryfeedrevolutionizedpoultryfarming,allowingfarmerstomovetheirflocksintovastwarehousesthatcouldturnoutlargenumbersofbirdsinshortperiodsoftime.Throughrigorousbreedingandintensivefeedingandconfinementmethods,factoryfarmsweresoonabletotransformaday-oldchickintoa5-pound(2.3kg)roastingchickeninlessthanamonthandahalf.Poultrybecameaproduct:cheap,fast,andnotterriblydelicious.Butabacklashagainstthesebionicbirdsisunderway.Manysmallfarmsare

returningtoraisingpoultrytheold-fashionedwayandputtingthebirdsbackoutside.Onthehomefront,moreandmoreurbanitesandsuburbanitesaredonningtheirstrawhatsandtryingtheirhandatraisingaflock,too.Althoughthereisacostassociatedwithpasturedpoultry—raisedoutdoorsandfedanaturaldiet—theresultsarewellworthit.

BirdsintheButcherShopAgoodbutchershopwillofferatleastasmallselectionofbirds.Poultryisfairlyperishableandisideallypurchasedandusedwithinaweekofprocessing(thetechnicaltermforkillingandpreparingananimalforsale).Sourcequalitypoultryfrombutchershopsthathaveahighturnoverorthatwillspecial-ordermeatstheydonotregularlystock.Trackingdownquail,guineahens,squabs,geese,andevengamehensmaytakealittleresearch.Asianmeatmarketsareoftenagoodsourceforquail,squab,andduckifyourregularbutchershopcannotprocurethem.Whenpurchasingpoultry,checkthatthebirdisfullyintact,withnobroken

wingsorbones,andisfreeofbruisesorblemishes,whichcanindicatepoorhandlingduringprocessing.Buybirdswiththeirskinon.Theskindoesnothavetobemonochromatic,butitshouldlooklivelyandfresh.Don’tbeturnedoffbydarkskin,especiallyonsquabsorheritagebreedturkeys,whichmayhavepurpleorbrowncolorationontheneck,wings,orlegs.Thisisanaturaloccurrence.

Quailarelittlebirdswithloadsofflavor.MostdomesticquailareCoturnix

quail(akaJapanesequail)thatcanbefurthersubdividedintobreedssuchasGoldenRange,Tuxedo,Scarlett,ManchurianGolden,orRosetta.Ready-to-cookquailareoftensortedintosmall,medium,andlargecategoriesandareusuallyavailablewhole(onthebone)orsemiboneless(akaglove-boned),meaningthatallofthebones,exceptthetinywingandlegbones,havebeenremoved.Quailaregenerallypricedbythepieceratherthanbyweight.AnadultCoturnixquailweighs3½to5ounces(100to140g).Thesesmallbirdsarenearlyalwayscookedwhole.Ifyouareservingquailas

afirstcourseorappetizer,orifyouarestuffingquailforamaincourse(asinFig-and-SausageStuffedQuail),allowonequailperperson.Foramaincourseofunstuffedquail,allowtwoquailperperson.Quailtakebrinesandmarinadesquitewellandareexcellentstuffedwithsausage,cornbread,wildrice,andgrains.Whenstuffingquail,aquickthree-hourbrineisrecommendedtokeepthemfromdryingout,sincethequailmeatcooksfasterthanthestuffing.Theversatilequailcanbegrilled,panseared,roasted,orfried,generallyatahightemperaturetoachievecrispyskinwithajuicyinterior.

Gamehens,despitetheirname,arenotactuallygameandnotnecessarilyhens.Theseplump,meatylittlebirdsalsogobythenameCornishgamehen,RockCornishgamehen,springchicken,ortheclassy-soundingpoussin;canbemaleorfemale;andareactuallyjustimmaturechickens.Gamehensareusuallysoldwholebyweight,andgenerallyweighbetween18and24ounces(500and680g).Onegamehenisusuallysufficientfortwoservings,unlessyouarecookingforsomeveryheartyeaters.Thesesmallbutstockybirdsareusuallycookedwholeandcanberoasted,

grilled,orfriedthesamewayyouwouldanychicken,thoughforashortercookingtimebecauseoftheirsmallersize.Onepopularcookingmethod,knownasalmattone(withabrick),istospatchcockthebird(removethebackboneandflattenthebird),thenroastorgrillitunderanaluminumfoil–wrappedbrickorotherheavyweight.Gamehensadaptwelltoalmostanytypeofseasoningandmarination,includingcitrus,garlic,mostherbsandspices,andchiles.Theycanbesubstitutedforchickenwhenmakingsausagesandpâtés.

Squab,whichisadomesticatedfledglingpigeon,isalittlebirdwithrichlyflavoredmeatandadeeprosycolor.Itisoneoftheoldestdomesticatedbirds,popularizedinancientRomeandEgypt,feastedonbynobilitythroughoutmedievalEurope,andperfectlypresentedonmodern-dayplatesintheworld’sfinestdiningestablishments.Don’tletthistastylittlebird’shaughtyhistorydeteryoufromenjoyingitspowerful,succulentflavor.Thebirdstypicallyweigh16to

18ounces(450to500g)andaregenerallysoldwhole,withheadandfeetattached.Althoughsquabscanbecookedwhole,theyarefrequentlydividedinto

breasts,themostprizedmeatandgenerallypreferredrare,andlegs,whicharebestcookedalittlelonger.Thebreastscanbeseared,roasted,orgrilled,andthelegsaregoodturnedintoaconfit,braised,orbonedandusedforsausagealongwithalittleporkfat.Besuretosaveanybonesforarichgamebroth.

Chickenisthemostcommontypeofpoultryintheworld.Today’schickenisadescendantoftheredjunglefowl,domesticatedthousandsofyearsagoinSouthAsia.Chickenhasbecomesoubiquitousinrecentyearsthatitseemstohavetakenalowlyplaceattheculinarytable.True,afactory-farmedbirdisaninsipidandoverusedfoodstuff.Butapasture-raisedbirdthathasspentitslifefrolickingandnibblingonnaturalgrassesandinsectsyieldsjuicy,irresistiblemeatwithaslightlynuttyflavor.Chickensfarmedformeataregenerallyclassifiedbyageandsize.Broilers

andtheslightlylargerfryersareyoungbutmaturechickens,between2½and3½pounds(1.2and1.6kg).Roastersareusuallyafewweeksolderandare4pounds(1.8kg)ormore.Hard-to-findcaponsarecastratedroosters,generallyseveralmonthsold.Stewersareolderbirdsorretiredlayinghensthatare,astheirnameimplies,tougholdbirds,preferredforthestewpotwhereslowsimmeringrendersthemeatmoresucculent.Stewersarealsoagoodchoiceforsausageandpâtés.Whattheylackintenderness,theyoftenmakeupforinflavor,andsincethemeatisbeinggroundandsupplementedwithadditionalfat,thetextureofthemeatislessimportant.Inthecharcuterie,wealwayspurchasewholefreshbirdsdirectlyfromalocal

farmtoensurethehighestquality.Wholebirdsyieldnotonlymeatbutalsoaheapofbones,heads,andfeetforthestockpotand,ifyouarelucky,tastygiblets,includingthejewel-likeliversthatcanbegrilledorusedtomakeChickenLiverCrostini.

Guineahen,sometimescalledguineafowlor,inFrance,pintade,isaremarkable-looking,rambunctiousbirdnativetotheAfricansavanna.Manyfarmersincorporateguineahensintotheirpasturedchickenflocktoactasaprotectoragainstrattlesnakesandotherpredators.Themeatisearthyanddarkerthanchickenmeatbutnotquiteasrichasduck.Youngguineahenisdeliciousroastedwhole.Matureguineahenmakesan

excellentbraiseorstew.Thebreastsandthelegscanalsobecookedseparately.Inthecharcuterie,guineahencanbeusedtoproducesausageandpâtésandisa

fittingsubstituteformoreunusualgamebirds,suchaspartridgeandgrouse.Duckisthepigofthepoultryworld,extremelyversatileinitsuses,especially

inthecharcuterie.Domesticbreedsofduck,mostofwhichoriginatedinAsia,havebeenfarmedforthousandsofyearsfortheirricheggs,savorymeat,andsometimesfortheirfattenedlivers(foiegras).Mostducksweigh4to5pounds(1.8to2.3kg).Awholeroastedduckwithits

crispy,mahogany-coloredskinisasighttobehold.Butlikemanyotherfowl,thebreastandlegmeatcookatdifferentrates,andbetterresultscansometimesbeachievedbyusingdifferentcookingmethods.Thelarge,tenderbreasts,theflavorofwhichisoftencomparedtosteak,arebestcookedraretomedium-rareonthegrillorinapan.Thelegscanbeslowlycooked,eitherasabraiseoraconfit.Theskinoftheduckcanbeusedtolineterrines.Itisalsooutfittedwithagenerouslayerofsubcutaneousfatthatcanberenderedforcooking.Toreleasesomeofthefatduringroastingorsearing,prickorscoretheskin.Ifyouareinluck,yourduckwillcomewithitsgizzard(greatforconfit),heart(goodforgrilling),neck(saveforCouFarci,andliver(perfectforducklivermousse).Duckbones,heads,andfeetmakeaheartybroth,perfectforuseinsoupsandbraises.Someducksarealsospeciallyraisedtoproducefoiegras,excellentfor

torchons,terrines,mousses,orsimplysearing.Inaddition,ducksharvestedforfoiegrasproducebothextra-largelegs,whicharegreatforconfit,andbreasts,referredtoasmagrets,whichcanbecooked,smoked,orcured.

DARKMEATORWHITE?

Darkmeatiswhatavianbiologistsrefertoas“redmuscle.”Itisthemuscleusedforsustainedactivity,suchaswalkinginthecaseofachicken.Whitemeator“whitemuscle”ismusclethatisusedonlyforshortburstsofactivitysuchas,forchickens,flying.Birdssuchaschickensandturkeysthatarebettersuitedtowalkingthantoflyingwillhavedarklegandthighmeatandwhitebreastmeat,whilebirdssuchasducksandgeesethathavebreastmusclecapableofsustainedflightwillhaveredmuscleordarkmeat,throughout.

Goosemeatisdarkerandmoreintenselyflavoredthanturkeyandfattierandgamierthanduck.TheEmbden,Toulouse,andChinesegoosearethemostcommonbreedsavailable.Asuitablegooseforroastingwillgenerallyweigh10to14pounds(4.5to6.3kg),andamaturegoose,perfectforcharcuterie,willweigh18to19pounds(8.2to8.6kg).Roastgooseisaholidaytreat,butgoosealsomakesfabulousconfit(followthedirectionsforWholeDuckConfit).Withitsthicklayerofsubcutaneousfat,goosehasplentyextraforrendering,andthecarcasscanbeusedtomakearichbroth.Geesearealsoraisedforfoiegras.Infact,thefoied’oieisevenfattierthanduckfoiegras.

Turkey,acousinofthepheasant,isanAmericanoriginal.Today’sdomesticatedturkeysarethedescendentsofwildturkeysindigenoustoNorthandCentralAmerica.Thisimpressivegiantofthepoultryworldrangesinsizefromsmall,weighinginat5to10pounds(2.3to4.5kg),upwardto40pounds(18kg).Themostcommonsizeistheyoungroaster,whichweighs10to20pounds(4.5to9kg)andis5to7monthsold.Becauseturkeyisextremelylean,briningitishighlyrecommended.Roasting

isthemostcommoncookingmethod,butagoodcasecouldbemadeforbraisingthelegsorturningthemintoaconfit.Separatingthelegsfromthebreastpriortoroastingisanothergoodoption,asitallowsyoutocookeachtotheperfectstageofdoneness.Aturkeyoftencomeswithitsgibletsandneck,whichmakedeliciousadditionstoturkeygravyortoturkeybroth,alongwiththeraworroastedcarcass.Forthemostflavorfulturkeys,lookforheritagebreedssuchastheBlack,Bronze,orBourbonRed,raisedonsmallfarmswithaccesstopasture.

BasicBirdButchery

Birdsareagreatplacetobegintolearnbutchery,andknowinghowtobutcherabirdisaskillthatwillcomeinhandyagainandagain.Allbirdshaveasimilarskeletalstructureandcanbebutcheredusingthesamemethods.Onceyouhavemasteredbreakingdownaduckorchicken,youcanusethosesametechniquesforotherpoultry.

BirdontheBoneWhenbraising,frying,orgrillingabird,youusuallywanttocutthebirdintofourtoeightpieces,leavingthemeatonthebone.Meatcookedonthebonewill

bemoreflavorfulandjuicy.Besuretosavethebackboneforthestockpot.Seeinstructions.

BonedBirdInthecharcuterie,whenyouarepreparingsausage,pâtés,orthelike,yougenerallywantabirdthatiscompletelyboneless.Manyrecipes,suchasDuckandLemongrassSausagePatties,callforjustthemeatofthebird.ThemethodillustratedforBonedBirdallowsyoutoseparatethemeatfullyfromthewholecarcass,yieldingmeat,bones,andwings.

WholeBonedBirdSomerecipes,suchasDuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHazelnuts,callforawholebonedbird—thatistosay,abirdthathashaditsbonescompletelyremoved,butthemeatleaftintact.Others,suchastheVealandChickenGalantine,callfortheintactskinofawhole,debonedbird.ThemethodillustratedforWholeBonedBirdshouldbeusedinthoseinstances.

BIRDONTHEBONE

1.Removethebackbone.Placethebird,breastsidedown,onacuttingboard.Usingpoultryshearsorasharp,heavyknife,cutalongeithersideofthebackbonetoremoveit.

2.Cutthroughthebreastbone.Cutthebirdinhalflengthwise,severingitthroughthebreastbone.Youshouldhavetwoequalhalves.

3.Separatethelegsfromthebreasts.Placeahalf,skinsideup,ontheboard.About1inch(2.5cm)belowwherethebreastcomestoapoint,severthebreastfromthelegbycuttingthroughthemeatandbone.Repeatwiththeotherhalfofthebird.

4.Cutthethighsawayfromthedrumsticks.Ifyouwishtocutthelegsintotwopieces,cutthroughthejointbetweenthethighandthedrumstick.

5.Halvethebreasts(optional).Ifyouwantabirdcutintoeightpieces(aspicturedbelow),cuteachbreastintwopieces.Placeabreasthalf,skinsideup,ontheboard.Startingabout1inch(2.5cm)inchbelowthewingjoint,cutdownthroughthebreastbone.

BONEDBIRD

1.Removethewishbone.Placethebird,breastsideup,onacuttingboard.Usingyourfingertips,locatethewishboneunderneaththemeatatthetopofthebreasts(neckcavityend)andwiggleitfree.

2.Removethebreastfromthebreastbone.Feelwherethebreastbone,orkeel,runsdownthemiddleofthebreast.Usingaboningknife,makeacutdirectlyononesideofthebreastbone,extendingitfromthetopofthebreastallthewaytothebottom.Youwantthetipoftheknifetobepressingdirectlyonthebone.

3.Carvethemeatoffofthebreastbone,workingawayfromtheboneandpeelingthemeatbackwiththefingersofyourotherhandasyougo.Continueuntilyouhaveremovedtheentirebreast.Now,repeatinthismannerontheothersideofthebreastbone.

4.Removethewings.Graspawingandextenditawayfromthebody.Then,usingaboningknife,cutthroughtheshoulderjoint,severingthewing.Repeatontheoppositeside.Reservethewingsforanotheruse.

5.Removethelegs.Holdthecarcassdownwithonehandwhilegrippingalegwiththeother.Pushthelegbackwarduntilyoufeeltheballjointatthetopofthelegpopoutofitssocket.Usingthetipofyourboningknife,scoopoutthe“oyster,”thesmallmusclethatsitsnexttothebackboneandabovewherethelegpoppedoutofthesocket.Continuetocutaroundthelegbone,followingthebackallthewaydowntothetail.Repeatwiththeotherleg.

6.Cutthelegmeatawayfromthebone.Laythelegs,skinsidedown,ontheboard.Usingtheboningknife,slicealongeachsideofthethighbone,pressing

againsttheboneasyougo.

7.Sliptheknifeunderneaththethighbonetofreeitfromthemuscle,scrapinganyextrameatawayfromitasyougo.Thendothesamewiththedrumstick.

8.Theresult:Bonelessbreasts(left)andlegs(right).

WHOLEBONEDBIRD

1.Cutthroughtothebackbone.Placethebirdbreastsidedownonyourcuttingboard.Usingaboningknife,makeacutdowntothebackbonefromthenecktothetailend.

2.Separatethethighsfromthebackbone.Chooseonesideofthebirdtobonefirst.Usingyourfingers,locatethesocketwherethethighboneattachestothebackbone.Insertthetipofyourboningknifeintothesockettoseparatethethighfromtheback.

3.Separatethewingsfromthebackbone.Repeatthisprocesswiththewingjoint,cuttingatthepointwherethedrumetteconnectstothewingjoint.

4.Continuetocarvethebreastandthighmeatawayfromthecarcass.Usingaboningknife,carvethebreastandlegmeatawayfromtheribcageandbackbone.

5.Debonetheotherside.Repeatsteps2through4ontheothersideofthebird.

6.Detachthecarcass.Atthispoint,themeatshouldonlybeattachedtothecarcassatthebreastbone.Leavingthemeatflatontheboard,peelthecarcassawaywithonehandwhilecuttingagainstthebreastbonewiththeothertofreeitcompletely.

7.Severthewingtipsandflatsawayfromthedrumettesbycuttingthroughthebonesatthejoint.

8.Debonethewings.Makeacircularcutaroundthetipsofthedrumettestocompletelyseverthetendons.Thiswillmakeiteasiertoremovethebonesfromthebirdwithoutmakingalargehole.

9.Exposeandloosenthedrumettebonesbycuttingdirectlyagainstthebones.

10.Holdingthewingstightly,useyourthumbstopushthedrumettebonesoutofthemeat,leavingasmallholebehindoneithersideofthebird.Ifthereisresistanceorthemeatstartstotear,cutthemeatfromthebonewhereitisstillattached.

11.Removethethighbones.Carvealongbothsidesofthethighboneswithyourboningknife,thencutalongtheundersidestoloosenbones.Severthethighbonesfromthedrumstickatthejoint,thencarvetheboneawaycompletely.

12.Debonethedrumsticks.Removethebonefromthedrumsticksinthesamemannerasthedrumette,byscoringtheoutsideofthelegtoseverallthetendons.Neatlycarveawayasmuchmeataspossiblefromtheboneontheinsideoftheleg,thenpushthebonesoutthroughthehole.

GingeryBraisedDuckLegs

GINGERYBRAISEDDUCKLEGS

Althoughducklegscanbeabitchewywhenroasted,braisingrendersthemtenderandsucculent.Thiscomfortingstewhasabolddoseofginger,aperfectfoilfortherichnessoftheduck.Wegenerallyeatthisbraiseovereggnoodles,butitcanalsobeservedoverfragrantjasminerice.Shouldanyduckgouneaten,themeatcanbeshreddedthenextdayandfoldedintofriedrice.SERVES6

6ducklegs1tablespoonfineseasalt1tablespoonFive

Spice2teaspoonssugar½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1teaspoon

toastedsesameoil2tablespoonssoysauce2tablespoonsShaoxingwineordrysherry3tablespoonsgratedfreshginger1tablespoonfinelychoppedgarlic1tablespoonrenderedduckfat8cups(2L)PorkandDuckNoodleSoupBrothorduckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)TOSERVE

1pound(450g)freshChineseeggnoodles,cookedaccordingtopackagedirections1cup(100g)thinlyslicedgreenonions1½cups(150g)beansprouts1cup(15g)freshcilantroleaves

Laytheducklegsinabakingdishlargeenoughtoaccommodatetheminasinglelayer.Seasonthemonbothsideswiththesalt.Inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheFiveSpice,sugar,pepper,sesameoil,soysauce,wine,ginger,andgarlic.Pourthemixtureovertheducklegs.Rolltheducklegsinthemarinadetocoatevenly.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast4hoursorovernight.

Removetheduckfromtherefrigerator.Heatalarge,deepfryingpan,sautépan,orbraiserovermediumheatandaddtheduckfat.Asthefatmelts,tiltthepantocoatitevenlywiththefat.Removetheducklegsfromthemarinade,reservingthemarinade,andpatthelegsdry.Placethelegs,skinsidedown,inthehotpanandcookslowlytobrowntheskinandrendersomeofitsfat.Whentheskinisadeepgold,turnthelegsandcontinuetobrownonthemeatsidefor2to3minutes.Tiltthepanandladleoffasmuchofthecookingfataspossible.Savethisfat

forlateruse.Addthebrothtothepanalongwiththereservedmarinade.Bringtoaslowsimmer,thenlowertheheatslightlyandlid.Cookfor2to2½hours,untilthemeatistenderandbeginstoloosenfromthebone.Removethepanfromtheheat.Tocrisptheducklegs,preheattheovento

450°F(230°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack,andtransferthelegsfromthebraisingliquortotherack,arrangingthemskinsideup.Blotthelegsdrywithapapertowel,thenbrushthemliberallywiththesavedcookingfat.(Reserveanyremainingfatforsautéingorstir-fryingvegetables.)Placethelegsintheovenandroastforabout10minutes,untilbrownandcrisp.Toserve,heatthebraisingliquor.Dividethecookednoodlesevenlyamong

large,deepindividualsoupbowls.Addenoughbraisingliquortoeachbowljusttocoverthenoodles.Restacrispyducklegineachbowl.Garnishwiththegreenonions,beansprouts,andcilantro.

ChoppedChickenLiverCrostini

CHOPPEDCHICKENLIVERCROSTINI

Ifyouareluckyenoughtohavetheliverincludedwithyourwholechicken,itisliketheprizeinthebottomofthebox.Youcanusechickenliverstogarnishterrines,enrichasauce,orashorsd’oeuvres.Thetextureoffreshliversisfarsuperiortothatoffrozen,sodonotbetemptedtobuythelatter.Askyourbutchertosetasideanyextraliverswhenfreshchickensarrive.Ifchickenliversareunavailable,duckliversmakeadeliciousalternativeforthesecrostini.Servethecrostiniaspartofanantipastoassortmentoralongsideagreensalad.SERVES6

1pound(450g)chickenorducklivers,cleanedandtrimmedasdirected

Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper1cup(140g)dicedpancettaorbacon,homemade(seePancettaArrotolataorBrownSugar–CuredBacon)orstore-boughtOliveoil,forcooking,binding,andbrushing¼cup(40g)mincedshallot1clovegarlic,minced½teaspoonchileflakes2tablespoonsdryMarsala2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshmarjoramororegano1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshthyme¼cup(40g)salt-packedcapers,rinsed,soakedinwatertocoverfor20minutes,drained,andchopped1baguette

Seasontheliverswithsaltandpepper.Coverandrefrigeratefor2to4hours.Heatalargesautépanovermediumheat.Addthepancettaandallowitto

brownslowly,releasingitsfat.Whenmostofthefathasrendered,usingaslottedspoon,transferthepancettatoaplateandreserve.Thereshouldbeenoughfatinthepantocoatthebottomevenlywithathin

layer.Ifyourpanisshyoffat,supplementwithasplashofoliveoil.Increasetheheatslightlyandaddtheliversinasingle,uncrowdedlayer.Brownthelivers,turningonce,forabout1½minutesoneachside.Theyshouldbecookedthroughbutstillatouchpinkinthemiddle.Transfertheliverstoacuttingboardtocool.Addabout2tablespoonsoliveoiltothepanandlowertheheatslightly.Add

theshallotandgarlictothepanandsautéuntilgolden.Addthechileflakes,thendeglazethepanwiththeMarsala,dislodginganybrownedbitsonthepanbottomwithawoodenspoon.Scrapethecontentsofthepanintoabowl.Whenthelivershavecooledslightly,chopthemcoarselywithachef’sknife,

makingseveralpassesoverthemuntiltheyachieveasomewhatuniformconsistency.Addtheliverstothebowlholdingtheshallot-garlicmixture.Thenaddthemarjoram,thyme,capers,andreservedpancetta.Stirin¼cup(60ml)oliveoil,ormoretotaste.Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).Cutthebaguetteonthediagonalinto

slices½inch(12mm)thick.Arrangetheslicesinasinglelayeronabakingsheet.Brushthetopswitholiveoil.Toasttheslicesforabout8to10minutes,untilgoldenandcrisp.Remove

fromtheovenandletcool.Topeachbaguetteslicewithagenerousspoonfulofthechoppedliver,arrange

onaplatter,andserve.

Chicken-FriedQuail

CHICKEN-FRIEDQUAIL

Delectable,crispyquailmakeanelegantalternativetotraditionalfriedchicken.Unlikechicken,quailcanbefriedwhole,quickly,evenly,andwithminimalfuss.Foranextra-spicyversionofthisdish,frythequailinthechile-ladenlardleftoverfrommakingciccioli.SERVES4

BUTTERMILKBRINE

1½ounces(42g)fineseasalt1½ounces(42g)honey½cup(120ml)boilingwater3cups(720ml)buttermilk8semiboneless(glove-boned)quail

3cups(360g)all-purposeflour1tablespoonfineseasalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonpaprika2teaspoonscayenne1quart(1L)lardCoarseseasalt,suchasfleurdeselorMaldon,forsprinking

Tomakethebrine,combinethesaltandhoneyinaheatproofcontainerorbowllargeenoughtoholdthequail.Pourtheboilingwateroverthesaltandhoneyandstirtodissolve.(Besuretomeasurethewaterafterithascometoaboil,assomewillevaporateasitheatsandmeasuringbeforehandwillresultinanoverlysaltybrine.)Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenstirinthebuttermilk.Patthequaildryandfoldthewingtipsbehindtheirbacks.Submergethebirdsinthebuttermilkbrine,toppingthemwithaplateifnecessary,andleaveatroomtemperaturefor2hours.Meanwhile,combinetheflour,1tablespoonsalt,blackpepper,paprika,andcayenneinawide,shallowbowl.Removethequailfromthebrine,drainingthemwellandthenpattingthem

dry.Dredgeeachquailintheflourmixture.Inalarge,deepcast-ironskilletorfryingpanheattheoiluntilitreaches350°F(180°C).Shakeexcessflourfromeachquail,thenfrythem,breastsidedown,makingsurenottocrowdthepan.Cookforabout4minutesoneachside,reducingtheheatifthey’rebrowningtooquickly.Useaslottedspoonormeatforktoturnthem;tongswillbreakoffthedeliciouscrispyskinthatsomesayisthebestpart.

Aseachbirdfinishes,transferittoawideplattercoveredwithpapertowelstodrain,thensprinklewithcoarsesalt.Makesurethefinishedbirdslieinasingle,uncrowdedlayersothattheystaycrispy.

Rabbit

Rabbitisadelicious,nutritious,often-overlookedchoiceforthoseinsearchofamoresustainablemeatoption.Allbunnyjokesaside,rabbitsreallydoreproducequicklyandabundantly.Theirmeathasadelicateflavorthatadaptswelltoavarietyofrecipes.Rabbitsarepurchasedskinned,andthemeatshouldbealovelypink.Theyare

usuallysortedandlabeledaccordingtosize.Fryersareyoung,tenderrabbitsthatweigh3to4pounds(1.4to1.8kg),perfectforsautéing.Roastersusuallyweigh4to6pounds(1.8to2.7kg),withfirmerandsomewhatlesstenderflesh.Stewersareolderrabbitsweighingover6pounds(2.7kg),idealforsausage,rillettes,andterrines.Arabbitisoftensoldwithitsliverandkidneys,whichcanbegrilled(asintherabbitspiedini)oraddedtosausageandterrines.Aswithpoultry,sourcequalityrabbitfrombutchershopsthathaveahigh

turnoverorwillspecialorderfreshrabbitiftheydonotregularlyhaveitinstock.Rabbitshouldgenerallybeconsumedwithinaweekofprocessing.

ButcheringRabbit

Rabbitisagreatplacetobeginifyou’reinterestedinlearninghowtobutcherlargerbeastssuchaslambs,goats,andpigs.Theskeletalandmuscularstructuresarefairlysimilar,buttherabbitisobviouslymuchsmallerandmoremanageable.

RabbitontheBoneUsethemethodillustratedforRabbitontheBonetocutarabbitintosixpiecesforbraising,grilling,orfrying.

BonedRabbitToseparateallofthemeatfromtherabbitcarcassforpâtéorsausage,usethemethodillustratedforBonedRabbit.Inadditiontothemeat,youwillyieldthe

carcass,forelegs,andoffal.

WholeBonedRabbitTocompletelydeboneawholerabbitwhileleavingitintact(asforRabbitPorchetta),usethemethodillustratedforWholeBonedRabbit.

RABBITONTHEBONE

1.Harvesttheoffal.Laytherabbitonitsbackonacuttingboardandcheckitsabdominalcavityforthekidneysandliver(theyareoftenleftattached).Iftheyarepresent,removethemwithasharpknife.

2.Cuttherabbitintothirds.Leavingtherabbitonitsback,removetheforelegssectionbycuttingthroughthebackbonewithacleaver,directlybehindthelastrib.Cuttheremainingtwo-thirdsoftherabbitinhalfbycuttingthroughthebackbonewithacleaver,1inch(2.5cm)abovewherethelegmeetstheloin.

3.Cuttherabbitintosixths.Usingacleaver,spliteachsectionlengthwisethroughthebackbonetocreatesixroughlyequal-sizedpieces.

4.Theresult:Offal,fore-andhindlegs,andmiddlesections.

BONEDRABBIT

1.Harvesttheoffalandtenders.Laytherabbitonitsbackonacuttingboardandcheckitsabdominalcavityforthekidneysandliver(theyareoftenleftattached;seephotoforstep1).Iftheyarepresent,removethemwithasharpknife.Cutthetendersfromtheinsideofthecavity(theyarelocatedjustunderneathwheretheliverwasandwillbeabout1½inches/4cmlong,nestledintothebackbone).

2.Removetheforelegs.Withyourhands,gentlyprytheforelegsawayfromthebody.Usingaboningknifeandfollowingthenaturalseamunderaleg,cutawaytheleguntilitcomesawayentirely.Repeatwiththesecondforeleg.Becausetheforelegscontainonlyatinyamountofmeat,itisusuallynotworththeefforttobonethem.Instead,setthemasideforastew,stock,orrillettes.

3.Removethehindlegs.Withyourfingers,feelwherethelegboneconnectstotheback.Then,positioningtheknifeabout1inch(2.5cm)abovewherethetwobonesmeet,cutstraightthroughthemeattotheback.Holdtherabbitdownontheboardandbendthelegtofreetheballsocketofthelegfromthebackbone.Continuetocutalongtheedgeofthebackboneuntilyou’vefreedthelegcompletely.Dothesamewiththeotherhindleg.

4.Separatethelegmeatfromthebone.Startingattheballjointwhereyouremovedthelegfromthebackbone,cutdownonesideofthelegbone,workingrightnexttothebone,untilyoucometotheend.Next,godowntheothersideofthelegboneallthewaytotheend.Pulltheballjointawayfromthelegandremovetheundersideofthelegmusclefromthebone.Repeatwiththeotherleg.

5.Removetheloinsandskirt.“Skirt”isthetermusedtodescribethemeatattachedtotheribsbelowtheloinonarabbit(analogoustothebellyorbreastmeatofporkorchicken).Startingattheneckend,useyourboningknifetocutalongonesideofthebackbone,gentlypeelingthemeatawayfromthebonewithyourfingersasyoucut.Peelallofthemeatoffthesideoftherabbit,allthewaydowntothebottomoftheribsandleavingaslittlemeatbehindaspossible.Repeatontheotherside.

6.Separatetheloinfromtheskirt.Usingyourknife,cuttheflatrectangularskirtawayfromthecylindricalloinmuscle.

WHOLEBONEDRABBIT

1.Harvesttheoffalandtendersandremovetheforelegs.Followsteps1and2forBonedRabbit.

2.Cutthemeatawayfromtheribs.Startingattheneckend,andworkingwiththetipoftheboningknifepressedagainsttheribcage,cutthemeatawayfromtheribbones.Whenyoureachthefleshyloinarea,whichisattachedtothebackbone,curvethetipofyourknifearoundtheloinuntilyouhitthebackbone.Repeatthisactiondownthelengthoftheribcageoneachsideoftherabbituntilyoureachthehindlegs.

3.Removethebackbone.Withyourboningknife,severthetipofeachvertebrawhilepullingthebackboneawayfromthemeatwithyourotherhand.Takecarenottopiercethroughthemeat.

4.Removethehindlegbones.Toseparateeachlegbonefromitshipsocket,pushthelegbackwarduntilyoufeeltheballjointatthetopofthelegpopoutofitssocket.

5.Carvethehipsocketoutofthemeat,thenslicealongeachsideofthelegbone,pressingagainsttheboneasyougo.

6.Sliptheknifeunderneaththelegbonetofreeitfromthemuscle,scrapinganyextrameatawayfromitasyougo.Repeatwiththeotherhindleg.

RabbitPorchetta

RabbitCacciatore

RABBITCACCIATORE

Thisrustic,easy-to-preparestewutilizesthewholerabbit.Althoughrabbitisquitelean,braisingthemeatonthebonehelpstokeepitmoistanddelicious.Ifyourrabbitcomeswithitsliverandkidneys,thesecanbechoppedandaddedalongwiththevegetablestoproduceanevenearthierstew.Servetherabbitanditssauceovercreamypolentaorbutteredeggnoodles.SERVES6

1rabbit,4to5pounds(1.8to2.3kg),cutinto6piecesFineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper3tablespoonsoliveoil6clovesgarlic,lightlycrushed3to4sprigsmixedthymeandsavory,plus1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshsavoryand1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshthyme½cup(70g)dicedbacon,guanciale,orpancetta,homemade(seeBrownSugar–CuredBacon,Guanciale,orPancettaArrotolata)orstore-bought1cup(170g)mincedyellowonion½cup(55g)finelychoppedcelery½cup(70g)peeledandfinelychoppedcarrot2cups(300g)dicedredoryellowsweetpepper1ounce(30g)driedporcinimushrooms,rehydrated(seeDriedWildMushrooms)andcoarselychopped½cup(120ml)drywhitewine1cup(250g)tomatopuree2cups(480ml)rabbit,game,orchickenbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)1or2driedcayenneorotherhotchiles

Onedayinadvanceofcooking,generouslyseasontherabbitwithsaltandpepper.Placeinasinglelayerinalarge,shallowbowlorbakingdish.Addtheoliveoil,garlic,andthymeandsavorysprigsandtosstocoattherabbitpieces

evenly.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,removetherabbitfromtherefrigeratorandbringtoroom

temperature.Removetherabbitpiecesandthegarlicclovesfromthemarinadeandreserveseparately.Discardtheremainingmarinade.Heatalarge,deepfryingpan,sautépan,orbraiserovermediumheat.Addthe

baconandallowittobrownslowly,releasingitsfat.Whenmostofthefathasrendered,usingaslottedspoon,transferthebacontoasmallplateandreserve.Addtherabbitpiecestothepanandbrownwellonallsides.Usingtongsora

slottedspoon,transfertherabbitpiecestoalargeplateandsetaside.Addtheonion,celery,carrot,sweetpepper,porcini,andthereservedgarliccloves.Sautéforabout10minutes,thenaddthewine,tomatopuree,andbroth,bringtoasimmer,andcookfor5minutesmore.Returntherabbittothepanandaddthereservedbacon,chiles,andchopped

savoryandthyme.Stirtocombine,thenturndowntheheattolow,cover,andcookforabout1hour,untilthemeatistenderandbeginningtoloosenfromthebone.Tasteforseasoning,thenserve.

Pork,theProvider

Nootheranimalisasessentialtothecharcuterieasthepig.Itprovidesuswiththemakingsforsausage,ham,salami,bacon,andterrines;givesussucculentcutssuitableforroasting,smoking,grilling,andbraising;anddeliverstastyoffalandskin,anabundanceofbonesforrich,gelatinousbroths,andamplelardforbaking,frying,andconfits.Thepigprettymuchhasitall.Alldomesticatedpigsoriginatedfromthewildboarthatroamedtheforests

andswampsofAsiaandEuropefortymillionyearsago.Conflictingclaimsexistonthefirstofficialdomesticationofswine,whichoccurredsometimearoundorbefore5000BCE,eitherintheMiddleEast,theeasternMediterranean,orpossiblyChina.RegardlessofwhoplantedtheirflaginSwinevillefirst,itwastheRomanswhotinkeredwithhogbreedingandspreadporkproductionthroughouttheirempire.WhenChristopherColumbussetsailonhissecondvoyagetotheNewWorldin1493,eightpigswereamonghispassengers.Fromafarmingperspective,pigsarebrilliant.Femalepigs,orsows,givebirth

toanaveragelitteroftenpigletsafteragestationperiodofonlyfourmonthsandcanproduceseverallittersannually.Pigletsgrowfastandcanincreasetheirweightby5,000percentinjustsixmonths.Forfarmers,thismeansahigherreturnfortimeinvestedthanforanyotherdomesticatedanimal.Pigscanalsoeatalmostanythingpeoplecaneat.Theiromnivorousnatureallowsthemtodineoneverythingfromfallenacorns,foragedrootsintheforest,andsurpluscropsofsweetpotatoes,coconuts,barley,orcorntokitchenscrapsonthesmallfamilyfarm,convertingwasteandleftoversintodelectablemeat.

AtthePorkStoreFromitsflavorfulheadtoitsspringytail,porkisgoodfood.Nearlyeverypartofthepigcanbeeatenorusedinthecharcuterie,includingitsliver,ears,feet,tongue,skin,andblood.Whenpurchasingpork,thebestindicatorsofqualityarethecolorandtexture

ofthemeatandfat.Despitethe“otherwhitemeat”campaign,porkisactuallyredmeatandthemostdesirablecolorforthemeatisdeeppinktonearlyredwithafairamountofintramuscularfatormarblingdispersedthroughout.Thefatshouldbealmostbrightwhite.Avoidporkthathasagrayorbrowncast,acolorationcausedbyoxidation,whichcanindicatealackoffreshness.Boththemeatandthefatshouldhaveafirmtexture.Cutsforroastingorsmoking,suchashams,shoulders,loins,andbellies,shouldhaveafatcapthatisatleast½inch(12mm)thick,andcutsforcharcuterieshouldgenerallyhaveevenaneventhickercap.Happypigstastebetter.Lookformeatfrompigsthathavebeenpastureraised

orraisedwithoutconfinement.Bylivinginanaturalway,theygetexercisethatbuildsuptheirmusclesandproducesmeatwithadeeper,porkierflavor.Pigsthatspendagoodamountoftimeoutdoorsalsotendtodevelopmoreandbettersubcutaneousfatasanaturaldefenseagainstcoldweather.

HeritagePigsHeritageporkbreedsaremorethanjustfancynamesandtrumped-uppedigrees.Theyaredistinguishedbreedswithuniquegeneticsthatcontributetothequalityandflavoroftheirmeatandfat.Modernindustrialbreedshavetoolittlefatandnotenoughflavortobeusefulinthecharcuterie,sowerelysolelyonheritagebreedstohelpusachievearobust,old-worldflavor.Heritagebreedsarewellsuitedtoalifespentinthegreatoutdoorsandaregenerallyraisedonsmallfamilyfarmswheretheyhaveroomtoroamandtimetogrowslowly,developingrichflavor,goodmarbling,andbackfat,whichmakeforbetterroasts,sausage,andcuredmeats.

Berkshire(akaKurobuta):Black-and-whitehogsprizedfortheirsweet,nuttyflavor,Berkshires,originallyfromGreatBritain,areprobablythemostpopularoftheheritagebreedstoday.Theyhavewellplacedintramuscularfat,ormarbling;brightpinkmeat;andafatcapthatisagoodthicknessforroastsandchops.WeespeciallyloveBerkshireshoulderroastswiththeirperfectbalanceofmeatandfat,greatforslowroasting,potroasting,orbraising.Inthecharcuterie,theall-purposeBerkshireaccountsforthemajorityoftheporkweusetomakebacon,ham,andsalumi.

Duroc:TheDurocisamuscular,red-coatedAmericanoriginalthatfirstgainednationalrecognitionatthe1893ChicagoWorld’sFair.Durocstendtobeabitleanerthanotherheritagebreeds,buttheiramplemeatiswellmarbled,andthey

producejuicyroastsandchops.SomeofthebestporkwegetattheFattedCalfismilk-fedDurocfromGoodFarmsinOlsburg,Kansas.TheGoodsraiseasmallportionoftheirgloriousDurocsonadietofbothpastureandrawfreshmilk,andtheresultisextremelytender,sweetmeat.

GloucestershireOldSpot:OriginallyfromEnglandandnowquiterare,thiswhite-coatedhogwithblackspotsandlarge,floppyearsthatcurloveritsheadisshyandsweetlytempered.TheOldSpotwasnicknamedTheOrchardPigbecauseitwasoftengrazedinpearandappleorchards,whereitfedonwindfallfruit.AlthoughthemeatoftheOldSpotisnaturallyapalerpinkthanthemeatofTamworthorRedWattlehogs,itisflavorfulandrich,withabundantmarblingandathickfatcap.Theplentifulfatmakesthisbreedagreatchoiceformostcharcuterie,particularlyforlardoandhams.

GuineaHog:Theblue-blackGuineaHogisthoughttohavefounditswaytotheUnitedStatesaboardslaveshipsfromWestAfricamorethantwohundredyearsago.Todaytheyareamongtherarestoftheheritagebreeds,knownonthefarmfortheirexcellentforagingabilitiesandgoodnature.Inthecharcuterie,theyarevaluedfortheirsucculenthamsandstreakybacon.

Hereford:NamedforitsstrikingresemblancetoHerefordcattle,thebrown-and-whiteHerefordhogisararebutdistinguishedbreed.DevelopedintheAmericanMidwestintheearly1900s,Herefordhogsareknownfortheirabilitytothriveonpasture.Theyareaslower-growingbreedthatyieldsdeeplycolored,well-marbledmeat.

LargeBlack:Asitsnameconveys,theLargeBlackisablackbig-bodiedhogthatcanreachupwardofsevenhundredpounds(317kg)whenfullymature.Thebreed,whichisthoughttohaveoriginsinChinabutwasrefinedinEngland,hasdeepreddishmeatandarich,earthyflavor.Italsohasagenerouscoveringoffat,makingitagoodchoiceforsalumiproduction.AttheFattedCalf,wegetabarley-fedLargeBlackhogfromalocalfarmaboutonceamonththatweusetogeneratelardo,pancetta,coppa,andsalami.

Mangalitsa:OriginallyfromHungary,theMangalitsa,sometimescalledtheWoollyPig,hasathick,woollycoatbestsuitedtocoldnorthernclimates.TheMangalitsaisaveryslow-growinglardpigandhasmeatwithnearlydoublethemarblingofaverageporkandanabundanceofthickbackfat.Probablybecausetheyaresounusualandslowgrowing,Mangalitsasalsogenerallyfetchdoublethepriceofyouraverageheritagepig.

Mulefoot:TheextremelyrareMulefoot,sonamedfortheresemblanceofitshooftothatofamule,isalarge-framed,black-coatedhog.Thoughttohave

traveledtotheUnitedStatesfromSpainasearlyasthesixteenthcentury,theMulefootbecamepopularthroughouttheMississippiRiverValleybytheearly1900s,whereitwasoftenturnedoutinthespringandallowedtoforageunfettereduntilslaughterinautumn.Mulefootshavevibrantredmeatandfreckledmarbling.Inthecharcuterie,theMulefoot,withitsidealfatdistribution,producesexcellenthams.

OssabawIslandHog:TheextremelyrareOssabawIslandHogwasderivedfromapopulationofferalIberianpigsthatthrivedonOssabawIsland,offthecoastofGeorgia.Thehogsaresmallbuthardyandhighlyregardedintheworldofcharcuterieforthequalityoftheirfatandtheirbountifulmarbling.

RedWattle:Thecopper-colored,wiry-hairedRedWattleisprobablybestknownforitsunique,fleshyfacialappendage,butitisalsohighlyprizedinourkitchenforitsflavorful,rosymeat.TheRedWattleisanativeoftheislandofNewCaledoniaintheSouthPacificthatfounditswaytoNewOrleansandwasfurtherdevelopedinTexas.Itisanexcellentforagerthatadaptswelltoavarietyofclimates,yetitisamongtherarestoftheheritageporkbreedstoday.Althoughtheytendtobealittleontheleansideforsomecharcuterie,RedWattleshavelong,juicyloinsandtenderhamsperfectforroasting.

Tamworth:TheTamworthisamuscular,redEnglishhogwithsomegeneticrootsinIreland.Itisblessedwithalongmiddleandamplebellyandisthoughttobethebestofthebaconbreeds.Ithasapronouncednuttyflavorthatisprizedinthecharcuterieforsalumiandprosciutto.

TheWholeBeast

Awholepigisanimpressivebeast.Evenasmallerpig,orroaster,weighsinatroughly60to100pounds(27to45kg).Optimalmarkethogsgenerallyweighbetween100and200pounds(45and90kg)andare6to8monthsold.Larger,morematurepigs,thoseover200pounds(90kg),havemorefat,largermuscles,andamoreintenseflavor,makingthemperfectforuseinthecharcuterie.Whenpurchasingawholepig,trytoarrangewellinadvancewithyourbutcheroralocalfarmer.Besuretorequestthehead,whichcanbeusedforPigHeadPozole,Guanciale,orvariousterrines,andtheoffal,asthesearesometimesremovedatthetimeofslaughter.Ifyouplanonbutcheringthepigyourself,itishighlyrecommendedtohavethepigsplitinhalftomaketheinitialcuttingmore

manageable.

ButcheringaWholePigintoPrimalsPigshavethreemainparts,orprimals,fromwhichmostothermarketablecutsareproduced.Theyaretheshoulder,themiddle(whichincludesthebellyandtheloin),andtheham.Andeverywholebeastisblessedwithtwoofeach!Seeillustratedinstructionsonhowtobutcherapigintoprimals.

TheMiddle:LoinandBellyTheporkmiddleisjustthat:themiddlepiecebetweentheshoulder,orfrontend,andthehindleg.Themiddleisgenerallybrokendownintosmaller,moremanageableparts—althoughpreparationsexistthatutilizethewholemiddle(seeWholeBonelessMiddle).Dependingonhowyouchoosetobutcherit,themiddlecanyieldribandporterhousechops,babybackribs,belly,spareribs,tenderloin,andbone-inandbonelessloinroasts.Seeillustratedinstructions.

TheBellyAbone-in,skin-onwholebellymakesafabulous,richroastorsucculentbraise.Or,ifyouwantabonelessbelly,youcanseparatethespareribsfromthebelly.Seeillustratedinstructions.Thebellycanalsobeskinned(seeSkinningthePig)ifyouplantomakebacon.

TheLoinThepig’slongloinisanexcellentroastingcut.Becauseitistoolargeforeverydaycooking,itisgenerallybrokendownintomorepracticalbone-inorbonelessroasts,chops,andribs.(Thenumberofribsvariesaccordingtobreed.)Thefirststepistodividetheloinintotherackandtheshortloin.Theshortloinisthencuttoyieldthetenderloinandabonelessroast.Next,youmustchoosebetweencuttingtherackintobone-inrackroastsandchopsorabonelessloinroastandbabybackribs.Instructionsforalloftheseoptionsarefoundstartinghere.Ifyouwantskinlessroastsandchops,skintheloinpriortobeginningtocut(seeSkinningthePig).

WholeBonelessMiddleAwholebonelessmiddle(meaning,boththebellyandtheloinarekepttogether)makesanimpressiveroast.WeusethisbutcheringtechniqueforTheCubanbutitcanalsobeusedforItaly’sfamousaristaallaporchetta.Seeillustrated

instructions.

BUTCHERINGAWHOLEPIGINTOPRIMALS

1.Splitthepigintohalves.Iftheheadisattached,sawifoffwhereitconnectstotheneck.Tosplitthepig,sawdirectlythroughthebackbonebeginningfromthetailendandcontinueallthewayupthroughtheneck.Ifthepigishanging,thisismadeeasierifasecondpersonholdsthepiginplace.

2.Separatetheshoulder.Placeahalfcutsideup.Makeatinymarkwithaboningknifebetweenthefourthandfifthribs.Usingthemarkasaguide,pushthetipofaboningknifeallthewaythroughthemeattotheothersideoftheribcageandthenthroughtheskin.Now,makeonelong,smoothcutawayfromthebackbonethroughthebottomoftheribcage.(Ifyouhavedifficultycuttingthroughthebottomoftheribcagewithaboningknife,usethesawtocutthroughthebones,thenresumeusingtheknife.)Turntheknifearoundandfollowtheinitialcutallthewaydowntothebackbone.Sawthroughthebone,thenuseachef’sknifeorcimetertoremovethewholeshoulderinonecleancut.Theentirefrontpieceofshouldershouldnowbecompletelyseparatedfromtherestofthepig.

3.Separatethelegfromthemiddle.Withthehalfagaincutsideup,andlookingatthehindleg,findtheareaonthebackbonewherethelegstartstocurveintothetail.Makeaperpendicularcutthroughthebellybelowthecurveofthebackbonewithyourknife,thenturntheknifearoundandfollowthecutallthewaybackuptomeetthebackbone.Sawthroughthebackbone.Lineupyourknifewiththeinitialcutandcutallthewaythroughtheleg,separatingitfromthemiddle.

THEMIDDLE:LOINANDBELLY

1.Toseparatethebellyfromtheloin,scorethemeatwhereyouplantocut.Placethemiddleonacuttingboardcutsideup.Startingattheshoulderend,measureabout5inches(12cm)fromthebackbonetothebelly.Markthespotwithyourboningknife.Withoutcuttingtoodeeplyintothemeat,scorethemeatandribsfromyourmarkattheshoulderendallthewaytotheoppositeendofthemiddleinastraightline.

2.Cutthroughtheribs.Usingyoursaw,cutthrougheachrib,oneatatime,byslidingyourhandunderneaththemiddletoelevateeachribasyouarecuttingit.Beginsawingattheshoulderendandcontinueallthewaytothelastrib.(Althoughthiscanbealittleunnervingatfirst,knowthatyouwouldneedtokeepgoingforquiteabittocutallthewaythroughthemeatandskintogettoyourfingers.Allthat’sgettingcutatthispointaretheribs.)

3.Completelyseparatethebellyfromtheloin.Oncealltheribshavebeensplit,usingyourboningknife,followyourinitialscoringmarktocutallthewaythroughtheskintoseparatethebellyfromtheloincompletely.

THEBELLY

Removethespareribsfromthebelly.Beginattheshoulderendwheretheribsitsflushagainsttheedgeofthebelly.Usingaboningknife,andcuttingparalleltotheworksurface,carvetheribsawayfromthebelly.Ifyouwillbesmoking,roasting,orbraisingtherackofribs,leaveabout½inch(12mm)meatattachedtotheunderside.Iftheribsaredestinedforthestockpot,leaveasmuchmeatattachedtothebellyaspossible.

THELOIN

1.Splittheloinintotherackandtheshortloin(backend).Usingachef’sknifeorcimeter,makeacutbehindthelastriboftheloin,nearestwherethelegwasremoved.Switchtoameatcleaver.Nestlethecleaverinthecut,againstthebackbone.Layafoldedtowelontopofthecleaver.Holdingthehandleofthecleaverinonehand,useyourotherhandtotapthebackofthecleaverwitharubbermalletuntilthebladegoesthroughthebonecompletely.Younowhavearack(longersection)andshortloin(shortercut).

2.Bonetheshortlointoyieldthetenderloinandabonelessroast.Thetenderloinisthesmallcylindricalmusclerunningalongonesideoftheshortloin.Usingyourhandandaboningknife,peelthetenderloinawayfromthebonetoseparateitcompletely.

3.Bonetheremainderoftheshortlointocreateabonelessloinroast.Positiontheknifedirectlyagainsttheboneandcutbetweentheboneandthemeattoseparatetocreateabonelessroast.Savethebonesforbroth.

Lefttoright:tenderloin,backbone,bonelessloinroast4a.Cutribchopsandroastsfromtherack.(Alternatively,forbabybackribs,proceedtostep4b.)Rackroastsandribchopsarecutusingthesame

technique.Usingachef’sknifeorcimeter,cutbetweentworibs(tocutchops,cutbetweenthefirsttworibs;forroasts,countthenumberofribsyouwouldlikeinyourroastandmakethecutjustafter)throughthe

loinmeattothebackbonetomakeaninitialcut.Switchtoyourmeatcleaver.Asinstep1,nestlethecleaverinthecut,againstthebackbone.Layafoldedtowelontopofthecleaver.Holdingthehandleofthecleaverinonehand,useyourotherhandtotapthebackofthecleaverwitharubbermalletuntilthebladegoes

throughthebonecompletely.Repeatthisforasmanychopsorroastsasyouwanttogenerate.

4b.Separatetheloinfromthebabybackribs.Standtherackonyourcuttingboard,withthesawedendoftheribsfacingup.Usingyourboningknifeandworkingcloselyagainstthebone,cutawaytheloinmuscletoseparateitfromthebackribs.

WHOLEBONELESSMIDDLE

1.Startwithawholeporkmiddle,preferablywiththebackboneremoved(asinthephotobelow;youcanaskyourbutchertodoit,orremovethebackboneyourselfinstep5).Cutthroughtheribsasifyouweregoingtoseparatethebellyfromtheloin(seesteps1and2fortheMiddle).Donotcutallthewaythroughthemeatandskin,though.

2.Removetheribs.Placethemiddleonacuttingboardonitssidewiththebackbonefacingyou.Removetheribsone-by-one:Usingthetipofaboningknife,cutdownonesideoftheribclosesttoyou,cuttingonlyasdeepasthebone.Workyourwayaroundthetipoftherib,thencutdowntheothersideuntilyoureachthebackbone,essentiallyoutliningtheribwithyourknife.Usingyourhands,wriggletheendoftheribfree,thencutthemeatawayfromtheboneasyoupulltheribawayfromthebelly.Whenmostoftheribboneisfreeofthemeat,presstheribdownandtwistittoreleasethebonefromthebackbone.Carveawaytheremainingmeatfromthejoint.Repeattheprocesstoremovetheremainingribs.

3.Removethecartilage.Cartilagerunsalongthecenterofthemiddlewheretheribsconnectedtothebreastplate;locateeachpiecewithyourfingers,thenusingyourboningknife,cutitawayfromthemeat.

4.Checkforpiecesoftheshoulderblade.Apieceofbonefromtheshoulderblademaybenestledbetweenthemeatandskinontheshoulderside;ifsocutitawayusingyourboningknife.

5.Removethebackbone,whichextendsfromtheshoulderendtothelegend.Ifyourmiddlestillhasabackbone,removeitbypeelingthetenderloinawayfromthebone,beingcarefultoleaveitattachedtothemusclejustaboveit.Directlyunderneaththetenderloinisthefingerbone,whichisthebonethatmakesthelongverticallineinaT-bone.Workingdirectlyagainstthebone,slipyourboningknifebehindeachofthesefingerbones,cuttingdowntothebackbone.Onceallofthefingerboneshavebeenexposed,cutthebackboneawayfromtheloininonepiece,workingfromtheshoulderendtothelegend.

6.Scoretheskin.Turnthenow-bonelessmiddleoversothattheskinsideisfacingup.Usingthetipofyourknifeandalighttouch,scratchthesurfaceoftheskin,makingstraight,parallellinesthatstretchfromtheshoulderendtothelegendandarespaced2inches(5cm)apart.

Five-SpiceBabyBackRibs

FIVE-SPICEBABYBACKRIBS

Therearetwotypesofporkribs:spareribs,thelongribsthatrestontheinsideofthebelly,andbabybacks,thesmallerribsthatsitalongsidetheloin.Spareribsarebig,tough,andmeaty,andbenefitfromalong,slowroastinthesmoker.Buttenderlittlebabybackscanbereadyinafractionofthetimeandcanevenberoastedintheovenwithgreatresults.Theseribsmakegreathorsd’oeuvresorcanbeservedaspartofa

largermealalongwithDuckandLemongrassSausagePatties,steamedrice,andvegetables.SERVES4

2racksbabybackribs1teaspoonfineseasalt2teaspoonssugar

2teaspoonsFiveSpice3tablespoonsdarksoysauce4teaspoonsdry

sherry6clovesgarlic,minced

Babybackribshaveamembraneontheundersidethatmustbepeeledawaypriortocooking.Toloosenthemembrane,scoretheundersideofthefirstribbonelengthwiseoneachrack.Asmallpieceofthemembranewillseparate.Grabholdofthispiecewithaclean,drytowelandpeelawaytheentiremembrane.Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthesalt,sugar,FiveSpice,soy,sherry,andgarlic.

Placetheracksinalarge,shallowbowlorbakingdishandcoverwiththemarinade,turningtocoat.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast2hoursoruptoovernight.Toroasttheribsintheoven,preheattheovento350°F(180°C).Outfita

roastingpanwitharack.Removetheribsfromthebowl,reservinganyextramarinade,andplacethem,

meatsideup,ontherack.Roasttheribsfor30minutes.Bastetheribswiththereservedmarinadeandroastforabout30minuteslonger,untilthemeatbeginstoeasebackfromtheendsofthebones.Togrilltheribs,prepareamediumfirefordirect-heatgrillinginacharcoal

grill.Placetheribsonthegrillgratedirectlyoverthecoalsandgrill,turning

themandbastingthemwiththereservedmarinadeevery10minutes,forabout1hour,untilthemeatbeginstoeasebackfromtheendsofthebones.Lettheribsrestfor5minutesbeforecutting.Toserve,slicebetweenthe

bonestoseparateintoindividualribs.

Chermoula-MarinatedPorkChops

CHERMOULA-MARINATEDPORKCHOPS

ChermoulaisaNorthAfricanmarinadetraditionallyusedtoflavorfishandvegetables.Inanunconventionaluse,wealsoliketoslatherthiszestyconcoctiononporkchopsorroasts.Gratingthegarlic,onion,ginger,andturmericonafine-raspMicroplanegraterorthesmallestholesofaboxgraterintensifiestheirflavorandhelpstotenderizethemeat.Youcanalsodoublethemarinadeandusetheextratoseasonroastedorgrilledvegetablestoservealongsideyourchops.SERVES4

4porkribchops,8to10ounces(225to280g)Fineseasalt

CHERMOULA

1½teaspoonscuminseeds,toasted½teaspooncorianderseeds,toasted½teaspoonpeppercorns¼teaspoonchile

flakes2clovesgarlic,grated¼cupgratedyellowonion½teaspoonpeeledandgratedfreshginger1teaspoonpeeledandgratedfreshturmeric,or½teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsunsmokedSpanishpaprikaGratedzestof½lemon2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantro3tablespoonsoliveoil

Salttheporkchopsonbothsidesandtherindoffatontheouterrimofeachchop.Tomakethechermoula,inaspicegrinder,combinethecumin,coriander,

peppercorns,andchileflakesandgrindfinely.Transferthegroundspicestoalarge,shallowbowl,addthegarlic,onion,ginger,turmeric,paprika,lemonzest,

parsley,cilantro,and2tablespoonsoftheoliveoil,andstirtocombine.Addthesaltedchopstothebowlandrolltheminthemarinadetocoatevenly.

Wrapthemarinatedporkchopstightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.Heatalargecast-ironorheavy-bottomedskilletovermediumheatandaddthe

remaining1tablespoonoiltothepan.Whentheoilishot,addthechopsinasingle,uncrowdedlayerandcook,turningonce,forabout5minutesoneachside,untilnicelybrownedbutstilltenderandjuicyinside.Serveatonce.

TheShoulderTheshoulderisprobablythemostversatile,deliciouscutofanyanimalandtheoneusedmorethananyotherinthecharcuterie.Itisexcellentforbrochettes,sausage,salami,andterrinesandcanbeslowroasted,braised,smoked,orcured.Thisprimalcutiscomprisedofthepig’sfrontlegandshoulder,whichyieldsthetrotter(foot),thehock,thepicnic,andtheBostonbutt.Onceyouhaveseveredtheshoulderfromtheremainderofthepighalf(seeButcheringaWholePigintoPrimals),breakingitdownintothesmallercutsissimple.Refertothephotosbelow.

THESHOULDER

1.Sawthetrotterawayfromthehock.Withtheshoulderskinsidedownonacuttingboard,bendthefootbackandforthtolocatethejoint.Holdingthefootwithonehand,sawcompletelythroughthebonetoseparate.ThetrottercanbesetasideforbrothorHeadcheese.

2.Removetheforeshankintwosections.Locatetheelbowlikebonethatcomesoutatananglefromjustbelowtheribs.Measurehalfwaybetweenthatboneandtheendwherethetrotterwasremoved.Usingaboningknife,andworkingparalleltothecutyoumadetoremovethetrotter,slicethroughtheskinandmeatdowntothebone.Usethesawtocutthroughthearmbone,thenresumecuttingthemeatandskinwiththeknifetoseparatecompletely.Toremovethesecondsection,makethesamecutdirectlyunderneathwheretheelbowbonebends.TheforeshankscanbeusedforBraisedHamHocksorClassicCassoulet.

3.SeparatethepicnicfromtheBostonbutt.Measure4inches(10cm)fromthebackbonetowardtheforeshankend.Usingthesaw,cutthroughtheribsparalleltothestraightedgeoftheshoulder.Cutthroughtherestoftheshoulderwithyourknife,sawingthroughtheshoulderbladeifnecessary.Youwillhaveasquared-offpiecewiththeribsattachedtothebackbone,theBostonbutt,andamoretriangularandirregularlyshapedpiece,thepicnic.

4.BonetheBostonbutt.Thesquare-cutBostonbuttrestsonribbonesthatattachtoboththebackboneandtheshoulderblade.Placethecutribsideuponthecuttingboard.Toremovetheribsandbackbone,workyourboningknifedirectlybehindthefourribsthatattachtothebackbone.Cutalongthelengthoftheribstothebackbone,thencontinuecuttingalongthebackboneuntilallofthebonesseparatefromtheshoulder.

5.Removetheshoulderblade.TurntheBostonbuttskinsidedownonthecuttingboard.Locatetheedgeoftheshoulderblade,whichisnestledbetweentheskinandthespotwheretheribswereremoved.Insertyourboningknifedirectlyaboveandparalleltothebone,keepingtheflatoftheknifeagainsttheshoulderblade.Continuetocutuntiltheshouldernearlyopenslikeabook,exposingthewholeshoulderblade.Carvedowneithersideoftheshoulderbladewithyourknifetooutlineit,thencutunderneaththeshoulderbladetofreeit.

6.Bonethepicnic.Thepicniccontainsapieceofthearmboneandfoursmallpiecesofribbone.First,usingtheboningknife,carvetheribbonesawayfromtherestofthepicnic.Toremovethearmbone,butterflythemeatoneithersideofthebonewhereyouremovedtheforeshanks.Workingagainstthebone,cutaroundtheendofthearmbone,thencutaroundtheundersidetoremovethebonecompletely.

CONSIDERTHECOUNTRYRIB

ThecountryribisaroasttakenfromtheBostonbuttsectionthatincludesthefirstfourribsofthepigandallthemuscleinbetweenthoseribsandtheshoulder

blade.Itistheholymeetingplacebetweentheloinandthesucculentshoulder.Itisagreatlittleroastthatcaneasilybeseasonedorstuffedandisperfectforfeedingthreetofourpeople.Onceyouremovethecountryrib,theremainderoftheBostonbuttcanbecutintosmallershoulderroastsorcubedforsausage.Toremovethisroast,turnthecutsidetowardyouand

locatetheshoulderblade.Youwillberemovingthepiecebetweentheribsandtheinsideoftheshoulderblade.Turntheshoulderskinsidedownandrotateitsothecutendoftheribsisfacingawayfromyou.Sawthroughthebackbonedirectlybeforethefirstrib.Cutthroughtheshoulderwithachef’sknifeorcimeteruntilyouhittheshoulderblade.Sawthroughtheshoulderblade,thenreturntotheknifeandcutthroughtherestoftheshoulder.Next,placetheknifeatthetopoftheribsandcarvetowardtheshoulderblade.Oncetheknifegetstothetopoftheshoulderblade,pressyourknifetowardtheboneandcontinuecuttingagainstthebone,followingitallthewaydowntothebottom.Whenyoureachthebottomoftheshoulderblade,turnyourknifeatarightangletowardtheskinoftheshoulderandcutthroughtheskin.Younowhaveyourcountryribroast,excellentforstuffingandslowroasting,aswellasforsmokingorbraising.

PorkBollitoMisto

PORKBOLLITOMISTO

BollitomistoisanorthernItalianspecialtythatcallsforsimmeringavarietyofmeatstogetherinarichbroth,aclassicSundaysupperdishpreparedbyanonna.Thebrothisusuallyservedasafirstcourseandthemeatsareslicedandservedasasecondcourseaccompaniedwithafewsaucesandsomesimplypreparedvegetables.Whatbelongsinthebrothisasubjectofgreatregionalprideanddebate.Insomeelaborateversions,beef,veal,pork,chicken,tongue,andcotechinoorzampone(astuffedpig’strotter)arestewedtogetherandservedwithsevensauces.Inthissimplifiedporkversion,themixconsistsofbelly,tongue,and

shoulder.Youcanadddifferentcutsormeats,butmakesureyouchoosetoughercuts,suchasneck,shank,andshoulder,thataremoresuitableforbraising.Aswithallbraises,makingbollitomistoadayortwoaheadoftimeallowstheflavorstobloomandmakesdegreasingthebrothandslicingthemeatsmucheasier.SERVES6

2pounds(900g)bonelessporkBostonbuttorpicnicinonepiece,preferablywithskin2pounds(900g)bonelessporkbellyinonepiece,preferablywithskin3porktongues

Fineseasalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper¾teaspoon

chileflakes2allspiceberries,groundPinchoffreshlygratednutmeg3quarts(2.8L)porkorchickenbroth(seeBasicRichBroth),oramixture1½cups(360ml)drywhitewine1yellowonion,peeledbutleftwhole4clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole1smalldriedbayleaf6slicescountry-stylebread,toastedandrubbedwithgarlic(optional)HorseradishSalsaVerdeorCherryMostarda,forserving

SeasontheBostonbutt,porkbelly,andtonguesonallsideswithsalt.Placeinalarge,shallowbowloralargebakingdish,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Thenextday,sprinklethepepper,chileflakes,allspice,andnutmegoverthe

meatysideoftheporkbelly.Rolluptheporkbellylengthwiseandtieitwithbutcher’stwineasyouwouldaroast,tyingitastightlyaspossible.PlacetheBostonbutt,porkbelly,tongues,broth,wine,onion,garlic,andbay

inatall,narrowstockpot(a12-quart/12Lisperfect).Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat,skimmingthesurfaceasyouwouldwhenmakingbroth.Coverpartiallyandcookfor2hours,thencheckeachpiece.Theyshouldallcookataboutthesamerate,butsomemightbedonesoonerthanothersdependingonthickness.Ifanyofthemeatstartstolooklikeitisabouttostartfallingapart,useaslottedspoontotransferittoaplate.Ifthelevelofthebrothdropsmorethan1inch(2.5cm)orsobelowthetopsofthemeats,addalittlemorebrothorsomewater.Tastethebrothandseasonifnecessary;itshouldbedeliciousallonitsown.Thesaltedmeatsandthespicesontheporkbellywillimpartalittleseasoningtothebroth,butoccasionallyitwillneedalittlenudge.After2hoursatagoodsimmer,themeatsshouldbefullycookedandwell

softened.SliceoffasmallpieceoftheBostonbuttandtasteit.Itshouldstillhaveasolidtexturebutnotberubbery.Putallofthemeatsbackinthepotandletcooltoroomtemperature,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight.Thenextday,takeallofthemeatsandtheonionoutofthechilledbroth.

Discardtheonionandanycoldfatonthetopofthebroth.Removethestringfromthebellybutdonotunrollit.SlicetheBostonbuttandbellyabout¼inch(6mm)thick,carvingagainstthegrain.Slicethetongues½inch(12mm)thickacrossthegrain.Returnallofthemeatstothepot.Returnthepottothestovetopoverlowheatandbringslowlytoasimmer.If

themeatsarebroughttoasimmertooquicklyafterbeingchilledandsliced,theslicescancurlaroundtheedgesandseizeup.Leisurelyisthewaytodoit.Theotherbenefitofheatingthemeatsslowlywithplentyoftimebeforedinneristhatiftheywerenotastenderasyouwouldlikethemtobe,theywillsoftenmoreifyougivethemmoretime.Asalreadynoted,thisdishisoftenservedintwocourses:thebrothfollowed

bythemeats.Ofcourse,ifyouprefertohaveeverythinginonebowl,thereisnolawagainstit.Ifyoudecidetodotheformer,measure1cup(240ml)brothperpersonintoaseparatesaucepan,bringtoaboil,andserveinwarmedsoupbowlsoverasliceofgarlic-rubbedtoast.Keepthemeatsoververylowheatwhileyourguestseatthebrothcourse.Servethemeatsonalargewarmedplatterwiththe

salsaverdeontheside.

VACUUMPACKED

Vacuumpackaging,alsoknownasvacuumsealing,amethodoffoodpreservationinwhichalloftheairisremovedfromthepackagebeforeitissealed,isapopularwaytopackagemeatsandotherfoodstoextendtheirshelflife.Ithasbecomeextremelycommontopurchasevacuum-sealedmeats,evenfromsmall,qualitypurveyors.Vacuumpackaginghasanumberofpositiveattributes:itaidsinretainingmoistureintheshortterm,inhibitsspoilage,andlimitsthechancesofcrosscontamination.Also,ifyouarefreezingmeat,itwillhelptopreventfreezerburn.Butvacuumpackaginghasdrawbacks,aswell.Itis

oftenmoredifficulttojudgethequalityandageofmeatsthatarevacuumsealed.Also,intheprocessofextractingairfromthebag,liquidisextractedfromthemeat,whichthensitsinthepackage.Thisliquid,knowninthemeatbusinessas“purge,”candevelopanunpleasantflavorinthemeatifstoredtoolong.Toavoidthesedownsides,passovervacuum-packagedmeatsthatcontainalargeamountofliquid,andlookfortightlysealedbagsthatclearlydisplaytheircontents.Whenyouremovemeatfromavacuum-sealed

package,itisnotuncommonforthemeattogiveoffaslightodor.Thisisnotnecessarilyanindicationofspoilage,however.Rinsethemeatquicklyundercoolrunningwaterandpatdry.Anyunwantedscentshoulddissipatewithinafewminutes.

FENNEL-DUSTEDPORKSHOULDERSTEAKS

Whetheryoucutyourownshouldersteaks(seeinstructionsbelow)orhaveyourbutchercutthemforyou,youwillfindthissimplepreparationbasedonarelativelyinexpensivecutproducesstunningresultswithaminimumofeffort.ServealongsideFagioliall’Uccellettoandasimplearugulasalad.SERVES4

2porkshouldersteaks,about1¼pounds(570g)each1largeclovegarlic,lightlycrushed1½teaspoonsfennelpollenFineseasalt

Lightlyrubbothsidesofeachsteakwiththegarlicclove,thensprinklebothsideswiththefennelpollenandseasalt.Prepareamediumfirefordirect-heatgrillinginacharcoalgrill.Placethe

steaksonthegrillgratedirectlyoverthecoalsandgrill,turningfrequently,forabout20minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothethickestpartofasteakregisters150°F(65°C).Serveatonce.

BUTCHERINGPORKSHOULDERSTEAKS

Porkshouldersteaksareanexcellentcutforthegrillthatutilizesthewholeshoulder.Afterremovingthefootandforeshanksfromtheshoulder(seesteps1and2fortheShoulder),leavethepicnicattachedtotheBostonbutt.Removethebottomoftheribcagefromtheribsbyworkingthetipofaboningknifebetweenthecartilageoftheribcageandtheendsofallfourribs.Standthewholeshoulderupwiththesquareendonyourboard,

thearmbonepointingup,andtheribsfacingtotheright.About1inch(2.5cm)totheleftofwheretheribsbegin,makeacut1inch(2.5cm)deepfromoneendoftheshouldertotheother,directlyinfrontoftheskin.Laydownyourknifeanduseyourhandstopushtheribsideoftheincisiongentlydowntowardthetablewhileholdingtheskinsideoftheshoulderinplace.Theshouldershouldopenupslightlyalonganaturalseamwherethecutis.Ifitseemsalittlestuck,usethetipoftheknifetomaketheoriginalcutdeeper,cuttingataslightangletowardtheribs.Tugagainattheshouldertoopenitup,thenlookinsidethecutontheskinsidetolocatetheshoulderblade.Startingatthetopoftheshoulder,carvedirectlyagainsttheshoulderbladewhilepullingtheribsectiondowntowardthecuttingboard.Oncetheknifehasgonealongtheinsideoftheboneallthewaytothebottom,turntheknifetowardtheskinsideandcutallthewaythroughtheskin,separatingthehalves.Settheportionwiththeshoulderbladeaside.Ontheotherhalf,cutbetweeneachriballthewaytothebackbone.Nestleacleaverintothefirstcutyoujustmade,layafoldedtoweloverthebackofthecleaver,andtaponthecleaverwitharubbermalletuntilthebladegoesthroughthebone.(Seephotosforstep1onfortheLoin.)Repeatwithalloftheotherribs.Cuttherestofthispieceofshoulderintosteaksthesamethicknessastheribsteaks.Theremaininghalfoftheshoulder(whichcontainstheshoulderblade)canbeturnedintotwoorthreeskin-onroasts(simplyremovetheshoulderbladebone).Alternately,removetheskinandusethispieceforgroundpork,stewmeat,orsausage.

TheHamAbone-inwholehamisaphenomenallygorgeouscut,butnotterriblypracticaloutsideoffeedingtheholidayhordesorpreparingyourowndry-curedham.Butabonelesshamwillyieldsmallerroastsandleanermeatthatworkswellformakingsalami.

THEHAM

1.Starttoremovetheaitchbone.Thetrickiestbonetoextractfromapigistheaitchbone,whichisthebonethatattachestotheballjointontheleg.Toremoveit,locatetheteardrop-shapedboneabout6inches(15cm)infromwhereyouseparatedthelegfromthemiddle.Usingaboningknife,removethemeatfromaroundthebonewhereitprotrudesabovethesurface.

2.Separatetheballjointfromthesocketoftheaitchbone.Workingdirectlyagainsttheaitchboneonthesideclosesttothetrotter,cutroughly3inches(7.5cm)intothemeatuntilyouhitanotherbone.Thisiswheretheballjointofthefemurboneconnectstothesocketoftheaitchbone.Workthetipofyourknifebetweentheballjointandthesockettoseparatethetwo.

3.Detachtheaitchbone.Then,workingsimultaneously,useonehandtopeeltheaitchboneawayfromtheballjointandtheotherhandtocutawaythelegmusclewithaboningknife.(Sometimes,partofthebackbonewillstillbeattachedtotheaitchbone,inwhichcaseyoushouldsimplycutawaythebackbonealongwiththeaitchbone.

4.Cutoffthetrotterandshank.Sawthebackfootoffdirectlybelowtheshank,(markedas“cut1”onthephotobelow).Next,measurehalfwaybetweenthecutyoujustmadeandwheretheshankwidenssomewhatandsawthroughthebonetomakeonehamshankcut(markedas“cut2”onthephotobelow).Usingchef’sknifeorcimeter,andworkingparalleltothecutyou

madetoremovethetrotter,slicethroughtheskinandmeatdowntothebone.Useyoursawtocutthroughthebone,thenresumecuttingthemeatandskinwithyourknifetoseparatecompletely.Makethesamecuttoyieldasecondhamshankwheretheshankwidensconsiderably(markedas“cut3”onthephotobelow).

5.Removethefemurbone.Returntotheplacewhereyouseveredtheballjointfromtheaitchbone.Followingthebone,andusingaboningknife,cutalongonesideofthefemurbonethatattachestotheballjointuntilitendsatthepatella,theroundboneabout1inch(2.5cm)indiameterthatsitsnexttotheintersectionofthefemurandshankbones.Cutalongtheothersideofthefemur,thencarveunderneathitwhilepullingitawayfromthemusclewithyourfreehand.

6.Removetheremainderoftheshank,thepatella,andanyremainingboneorglands.Returningtotheplacewhereyouseveredtheshank,useaboningknifetocarveawaythebone.Anyshankmeatthatremainsattachedtothelegcanbecutforsausageorstewing.

7.Cutthelegintosmallerroasts.Followingthenaturalseamsinthemeat,cutthebonelesslegintofoursmaller,evenlyshapedroasts.Trimoffanyexcessfromeachroastandsaveanyscrapforsausage.

TonnodiMaiale

TONNODIMAIALE

LeanporklegistransformedintoamoistandtenderdelicacyinthisuniquepreparationwithoriginsintheChiantiregionofTuscany.TonnoistheItalianwordfor“tuna.”Similarintexturetooil-packedhigh-qualitytuna,theporkleginthisrecipeissaltedforacoupleofdays,thensimmeredinanaromaticmixtureofwhitewineandwater,andfinallyimmersedingoodoliveoil.Theresultisabrightlyflavoredmeatwithawonderfullyflakytexture,perfectforcrostiniwithroastedcherrytomatoesorforaddingtoasaladofcreamywhitebeanswithredonionandparsley.Freshbayisanessentialseasoninginthisrecipe.Ifyouhavedifficulty

locatingfreshMediterraneanbayleaves,youcansubstitutegood-qualitydriedbayleaves,increasingthenumberofleavesbyroughlyone-third.MAKES4PINT(480ML)JARS

12cups(3.6kg)fineseasalt1skin-on,bonelessporklegroast,about3pounds(1.3kg)2cups(480ml)drywhitewine8freshbayleavesAbout4cups(960ml)oliveoil

Selectaglassorplasticcontainerjustlargeenoughtoaccommodatetheroast.Pouralayerofsalt2inches(5cm)thickintothebottomofthecontainer.Nestletheporkinthesalt.Pourinmoresalttosurroundandcovertheporkcompletely.Nopartoftheroastshouldbevisible.Coverandrefrigeratefor48hours.Removetheporkfromthesaltandrinselightlyundercoolrunningwaterto

removeanysaltcrystalsclingingtothemeat.Putthepork,skinsideup,intoatall,narrowpot.Addthewineandhalfofthebayleaves.Pourinenoughcoldwatertocoverthemeat.Placethepotovermedium-highheatandbringtoarapidsimmer.Skimanyimpuritiesthatmayrisetothesurfaceasyouwouldabroth.Lidthepotpartiallytoallowsomesteamtoescapebuttokeeptheliquidfromevaporatingtooquickly.Cookforabout1½to2hours,untiltheskinstartstopeelawayfromthemeat.Takethepotoffthestoveandremovethelidtolettheporkcooltoroomtemperatureinitscookingliquid.

Whentheporkhascooled,usingaslottedspoon,transferittoatrayorlargeplate.Discardthecookingliquidandbayleaves.Useyourhandstoremovetheskinandexternalfatanddiscard.Theskinandfatshouldcomeoffeasily.Tearthemeatintoroughly2-inch(5cm)chunks.Thoroughlycleananddry4glasspint(480ml)jarswithlids.Pour¼cup(60

ml)oftheoliveoilintothebottomofeachjar,thenpressoneoftheremainingbayleavesagainstthesideofeachjar.Packtheporkchunksfairlytightlyintothejars,leaving1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspace.Pourinmoreoiltoimmersethemeatcompletely.Pokethemeatgentlywiththetipofaknifetoreleaseanyairpockets.Theoiltendstosettleandmoreisusuallynecessary.Waitfor10to15minutes,thenpourinmoreoilifnecessary.Lidthejarsandrefrigerateforatleast2daysbeforeusing.Toserve,usingacleanspoonorfork,gentlyremovetheporkyouplantouse

fromthejar.Ifanymeatremaininginthejarisprotrudingabovetheoil,pourinmoreoilasneededtocover.Properlycoveredwithoilandrefrigerated,theporkkeepswellfor4to6weeks.

OffalandExtremities

Beyondtheeverydaychopsandroast,thepigisendowedwithawealthofedibleoffalandextremitiesfromitsmeatyheadtoitsspringytail.Thesepartsmakeupalargeportionofthepigandlearningtoutilizethemisanobleskill.Thecharcuterieoffersavarietyofwaystoincorporateoffalintosausagesandterrines,buttheyareoftendeliciousenoughtowarrantaplaceofhonoronadinnermenu,too.

TheHeadNothingsayspork-o-philelikethepurchaseofapig’shead.Whatsomemightfindgruesome,therestofusknowisgoodstuff.Theheadcanbeusedinitsentiretytoproduceanaromaticbroth,oritsjowls,cheeks,tongue,andearscanbeusedseparately.

Jowlsareanirregularlyovularcutoffthehead.Whentheyarecutinto,theyrevealastreakymakeup,likeasmallerversionofporkbelly.Sometimesmistakenlylabeledcheeks,thejowlsactuallyhangbelowthepig’sjawline.TheyaresoldwithorwithouttheirskinandcanbecuredforGuancialeorsmokedforwhatisknownasfacebacon.

Cheeksarethesmall,densemusclethatrestabovethejaw.Theyareflavorfulbuttoughandshouldbebraisedtotenderizethem.Usethemtomakearagùforservingoverpastaorpolenta,slicethemfortacos,oraddtheirmeattoterrines.

Tongueisalsoamuscle.Porktongues,unlikemuchlargerbeeftongues,donotrequirepeelingbeforeeating.Theydoneedalong,slowsimmertorenderthemtender,however.Oncecooked,theycanbedicedandaddedtoterrines,slicedandservedaspartofanantipasto,orpickled.

Earsarequitecartilaginous.Theyneedtobebraisedforseveralhourstobecometender.Afterbraising,earsareusuallycrispedorfriedsothattheirexterioriscrunchyandtheirinteriorisyielding.

PigSkinPigskinisamarvel.Itcanbefriedintogoldensheetsofcrunchychicharrones,usedtocoataroastaunaturelwithitscrispycrackling,orboiledandaddedtosausagesandcookedsalamistoaddbouncytexture.

ScoringtheSkin:Toachievecrispycracklin’ontheskinofaporkroast,youmustscoreitfirst.Scoringtheskinfacilitatestherenderingoffatduringroastingandallowsthereleaseofsteamthatwouldotherwisebetrappedbeneaththeskin’ssurface.Ifyoudon’tscore,thissteamproducesrubbery,chewyskin.Whenscoringtheskin,itiscrucialtousealighttouch.Toodeepagashcanresultinthelossofmoistureandflavor.Tooshallowandyouriskthealready-mentionedrubberyfinish.Turnaboningknifeupsidedownsothebladefacesupandcarefullyscratchthesurfacewiththetipofyourknife.Ifyouseethewhiteofthefat,youarescoringtoodeeply.Astheroastcooks,theskinwillpullawayfromthescoremarks.

SkinningthePig:Totrimtheskinfromanycutofpork,usethissimplemethod:Placethepork,skinsideuponacuttingboard.Chooseanycorneroftheskintobegin,andslideyourknifebetweentheskinandthemeatparalleltotheboard.Cutoutwardtowardtheclosestedgeofthepork,creatingalooseflapofskin.Turntheknifebacktowardthemeatandinsertitintotheopenareabetweenthelooseflapofskinandthemeat.Nowcutalongtheedgeoftheroastwhileholdingontothelooseskin,cuttingataslightupwardangletopeelbacktheskinwhileleavingasmuchfatbehindaspossible.Whencutting,keepyourhandbehindtheknife,soiftheknifeslipsthroughtheskin,itwon’tgointoyourpalm.

TrottersandTailsLip-smackingtrottersandtailsareloadedwithcollagen.Along,slowsimmerwillbreakdownthetoughconnectivetissuesandtenderizethemeat.Theycanbebraisedwithcollardsorturnipgreensforaclassicsoutherntreat.Anexcellentsourceofgelatin,trottersandtailscanalsobeaddedtobrothsforincreasedbodyorusedtofortifyHeadcheeseandotherpottedmeats.Trottersandtailscanbecuredorsmokedandusedtoflavorotherdishes,aswell.

OffalTheedibleinnardsandorgansofpigsandotherlargeanimalsarereferredtoasoffal.Theheart,liver,andkidneysofapigaretypicallystrongertastingthanthoseoftheirruminantcounterparts.Aplateofporkkidneysisnotfortheuninitiated.However,porkoffalplaysacrucialroleinmanycharcuteriepreparations,wheretheirflavorlendsasubtleearthinesstothefinisheddish.Offalishighlyperishable,andfreshlyharvestedoffalisalwaysbest.Source

yourporkoffalfromagoodbutcher,preferablyonewhospecializesinwholehogs.Becauseoffal,especiallyliversandkidneys,isresponsibleforfilteringimpuritiesfromthebody,itiswisetopurchaseitfromabutcherwhohandlesonlynaturallyraisedpork.Ifyouarepurchasingawholehogandwouldlikeitsoffal,besuretorequestitspecifically,assomeslaughterhousesautomaticallydiscardit.

Liverisparticularlyprizedfortherichnessitaddstopâtésandliverwurst.Freshlivershouldbeeatenwithinafewdays.Liverisoftenfrozenimmediatelyatthetimeofharvest.Ifithasbeenfrozen,soakingitinmilkovernightwillhelptodrawoutsomeofthemetallicflavorsthatcansometimesdevelopasaresultoffreezing.Whenpreparingporkliver,besuretocutawayanydiscoloredspotsandconnectivetissuewithasharpparingknife.Dicedlivercanbeaddedasagarnishtocountry-styleterrinesorcancompriseaportionofthefarcetoaddrichness.Itcanalsobeaddedtothefarceofsausagesandsalami.

Heartismoreofamusclethananorganmeat.Itcanbeusedinterrinerecipesinplaceofleanmeat.Simplysliceitopenlengthwiseandtrimawayanyexcessivebloodspotsandsilverskin.Itaddsarichnessandcomplexitynotfoundinmostothermuscles.

Kidneysoftenhavewhiteconnectivetissuearoundwheretheywerecutfromthepig.Simplytrimthistissueaway,andifdesired,soakthekidneysinmilktotametheirintenseflavor(thiswillmakethemsuitableforuseincharcuterie).Freshkidneysfromnaturallyraisedhogsarebest.Porkkidneyscanbedicedand

usedasagarnishforporkterrines,orsubstitutedforliverwhenliverisn’tavailable.

PigHeadPozole

PIGHEADPOZOLE

Yes,thisrecipecallsforapig’shead,quarteredsothatitfitsmoreeasilyintoyourpot.Askyourbutchernicelyandheorshewilllikelycutitforyou.Whyawholepig’shead?Theheadhastheperfectratioofstickyskin,bone,cartilaginousbits,andfacemeatthatgivesthistraditionalMexicanstewofporkandhominyitsdelicious,slightlyferalquality.Thereisnoequivalentsubstitution.Apotofpozolemakesperfectpartyfare,andthisrecipeeasilyfeedsa

smallcrowd.Ladleupsteamingbowlsatthetableandletyourguestsaddtheirowngarnishes.Servewithplentyofcoldbeerandshotsoffierymescal,theclassicaccompanimenttothisheartydish.SERVES12TO14

2pounds(900g)driedhominy4to5pounds(1.8to2.3kg)bonelessporkshoulderFineseasalt

1skin-onpig’shead,quartered2driedbayleaves1sprigoregano

6cups(900g)dicedyellowonion6driedárbolchiles6anchochiles

6guajillochiles1largeheadgarlicGARNISHES1cup(115g)thinlyslicedradish6cups(400g)

shreddedgreencabbage1cup(170g)mincedwhiteonion4limes,cutintowedges4ripeavocados,halved,pitted,peeled,andsliced¼cup(12g)driedoregano

Onedayaheadofserving,inabowl,combinethehominywithcoldwatertocoverandletsoakovernight.Cuttheporkshoulderinto1½-inch(4cm)cubes.Seasonthecubeswithsalt,coatingevenly.Placeinasecondbowl,coverandrefrigerateovernight.Thenextdayplacethepig’shead,bay,andoreganoinalargepotwithcold

watertocover.Placeovermediumheatandbringtoasimmer.Turndownthe

heattoachievealazybubbleandcookforabout3hours,untilthemeateasilypullsawayfromthebones.Usingtongs,transferthelargepiecesofheadtoaplateandletcool.Strainthe

broththroughafine-meshsieveintoanotherlargepotandaddthecubedporkandonion.Placethepotoverlowheat,bringtoasimmer,andcook,uncovered,forabout2hours,untiltheporkisfork-tender.Whiletheporkiscooking,pullthemeatoffofthecooledheadpiecesand

chopintobite-sizepieces.Cuttheearsawayfromtheheadandcutintojulienne.Addthechoppedmeattothesimmeringporkshoulder.Meanwhile,cookthehominy.Drainoffthesoakingliquid,transferthe

hominytoalargepot,andaddcoldwatertocovergenerously.Placeovermedium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andsimmervigorously,uncovered,for2to3hours,untilthekernels“flower”andbecometender.Drainthecookedhominy,reservingthehominyandcookingliquidseparately.Whiletheporkandhominyaresimmering,preparethechilepaste.Toastthe

chilesonacomal(aMexicangriddle)oracast-ironskilletovermediumheatforabout1minute,untilfragrantandpliable.Turnoutontoaplatetocool.Removethestemandseedsfromeachchileanddiscard.Tearthechilesintosmallerpieces,placeinabowl,addwarmwatertocover,andletsoakforabout30minutes,untilsoftened.Drainthechiles,reservingthechilesandsoakingliquidseparately.Breakthegarlicheadintoindividualcloves.Usingthesamecomalorskillet,

roastthegarlicclovesovermediumheatforabout5minutes,untiltheskinsdarkenandtheclovesreleaseafragrantaroma.Turnoutontoaplatetocool,thenpeel.Inablender,combinethegarlic,chiles,and1cup(240ml)ofthechile

soakingwaterandpureeuntilsmooth.Ifthemixtureistoothick,addafewmorespoonfulsofthesoakingwater.Setthechilepasteaside.Tofinishthepozole,addthecookedhominytothesimmeringpotofbrothand

meatalongwithenoughofthehominycookingliquidtoachieveagoodconsistency.Youwantaboutequalpartsflavorfulbrothtomeatandhominy.Stirinhalfofthechilepasteandtasteforseasoning.Adjusttheseasoningwithadditionalchilepasteandsaltifneeded.Toserve,puteachofthegarnishesinitsownsmallbowlandplaceonthe

table.Ladlethepozoleintosoupbowlsandinvitedinerstogarnishtheirbowltotaste.

PickledPorkTongues

PICKLEDPORKTONGUES

Eatingisbelieving,andyoumustactuallyeatthepig’stonguetocomprehendhowgooditcanbe.Thetongueisawell-exercisedmusclethatcanbequitetough.Briningandsimmeringitbeforepicklinggentlysoftensthemuscleandinfusesitwithtonsofflavor.ThinlyslicethesepickledtonguesanduseinsaladsorservewithHorseradishSalsaVerdeasanhorsd’oeuvre.MAKES3PICKLEDTONGUES

3porktongues

BRINE

4quarts(3.8L)water8ounces(225g)fineseasalt4ounces(115g)sugar1tablespoonpeppercorns1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds3allspiceberries2driedbayleaves10clovesgarlic,crushedCOOKINGLIQUID

8cups(2L)porkbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)½cup(120ml)drywhitewine2tablespoons(35g)fineseasaltPICKLINGLIQUID

2cups(480ml)cidervinegar1tablespoonsugar½teaspoonfineseasalt2allspiceberries1teaspoonpeppercorns3clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole1yellowonion,thinlysliced

Tomakethebrine,inalargepot,combinethewater,salt,andsugar,placeovermedium-highheat,andbringtoaboil,stirringoccasionallytodissolvethesaltandsugar.Meanwhile,putthepeppercorns,mustardseeds,allspice,andbayonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithkitchentwine(oruseasmallmuslinbag).Whentheliquidisboiling,addthespicesachet,removefromtheheat,andletcooltoroomtemperature.Rinsethetonguesandplacetheminanonreactiveplasticorglasscontainer

largeenoughtoholdthetonguesandthebrine.Pourinthecooledbrineandrefrigeratefor24hours.Tomakethecookingliquid,addthebroth,wine,andsalttothepot,placeover

medium-lowheat,andbringtoalowsimmer.Removethetonguesfromthebrine,rinsebrieflyundercoolrunningwater,andplaceinthesamelargepot.Cookthetonguesgentlyfor2½to3hours,untiltheyaretenderwhenpiercedwiththetipofaknife.Makesuretheyareimmersedinliquidthroughoutthecookingprocess,addingwaterasneededtocompletelysubmergethetongues.Removefromtheheat,letthetonguescoolinthecookingliquid,andthen

refrigerateintheliquiduntilwellchilled.Removethechilledtonguesfromthecookingliquid,thenpackintoaclean1-quart(1L)jar.Tomakethepicklingliquid,inasmallsaucepan,combinethevinegar,sugar,

salt,allspice,peppercorns,garlic,andonion,placeovermediumheat,andbringtoasimmer.Cookfor10minutestoreleasetheflavorsfromtheonion,garlic,andspices.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoroomtemperature.Pouroverthetongues

toimmersecompletely,thencoverandrefrigeratefor2daystoallowthetonguestomaceratefullybeforeserving.Thetonguesarebestifeatenwithin2weeks.

Ruminants:Lamb,Goat,andBeef

Lamb,goat,andbeefallcomefromtheruminantfamily,agroupoftastyfour-leggedmammalswithaninbornpreferenceforavegetariandiet.Thereareover150ruminantspecies,butdomesticcattle,sheep,andgoatsaccountforabout95percentofthetotalpopulation.Ruminantsaredistinguishedfromotherherbivoresbytheirsmartlydesignedmultichamberedstomach,whichincludestheall-importantrumenthatallowsthemtothriveongrasses,twigs,andshrubs.Humanshavelongreliedontheruminantasasourceofmeat,milk,and

clothing.Around10,000BCE,wehadthegrandideaofkeepingafewoftheseeasilymanagedbeastsnearathandforourconvenience.Sheep,goats,andcattleforagedfortheirownfood,caredfortheirownyoung,requiredlittleinthewayoffencing,andifyoudecidedtopackupyourtentandheadtothenextvillage,yourbandofmerryruminantscouldeasilytagalong,providingafoodsourceontheway.Overtime,asthehumanpopulationgrew,ourappetiteforthesetastybeastswiththeirirresistiblesteaks,succulentchops,andtenderloinsgrewrightalongwithit.Wedevelopedared-meathabitandwewerewillingtodosomeless-than-wholesomethingstofeedit.Thedawnofindustrialagriculturesawtheboomofthefeedlot,oranimal

feedingoperation(AFO).Ruminantsrequirealotoflandonwhichtoforagetoreachtheiridealweight.Humandemandforabundantredmeatatlowpriceswasatanall-timehigharoundthemiddleofthetwentiethcentury.Thequestionablesolutionwastospeedupproductionofmeatbyfeedinganimalsgrainneartheendoftheirlifecycle.Sheep,goats,andcattlelovegrain.Tothem,itislikecandy.Andlikecandy,itfattensthem,makingtheirmeatwellmarbled.Butanall-candydietisextremelyunhealthy.Theirlittlerumenscannothandlelargeamountsofgrainforlong.AdiethighingraindramaticallylowersthepHintherumen,whichcancauseavarietyofailmentsthatmustbecuredbyantibiotics.Theconfinedquartersinwhichtheanimalsareharboreddoesnothelpthissituation,andtheamountofwasteproducedinhighconcentrationsisenoughtomakeyouloseyourappetitecompletely.Todayagreaterawarenessoftheperilsofthefeedlotsystemisslippinginto

mainstreamconsciousnessandthemarketisprovidingmorechoice.Healthyanimalsproducehealthfulmeat.Agoodbutcherwillbeabletoprovideyouwithgrass-fedanimalsoranimalsthathavebeenfinishedforjustashorttimeonmorenaturalgrains,suchasbarley,asopposedtocheaper,lessdigestiblecorn.Agoodbutcherwillhavemeatthatishormoneandantibioticfreeandcertifiedhumane.Usingalocalsourceforourlamb,goat,andbeefhelpstoreducetheenvironmentalimpactofourred-meathabit.Branchingoutfromsteaksandchopsandlearningtouseallofthedeliciouspartsoftheanimalinathoughtfulwaycanalsohelptosatisfyourred-meatfixandlessentheeffectsofitontheenvironment.

LambandGoat

SheepandgoatsarebothmembersofthesubfamilyCaprinae,makingthempracticallycousins.Inmanyrespects,theyarequitesimilar.Manyoftheirdifferencesareapparentintheiroutwardappearance(mostsheeparewoollyandgoatshavehair),theireatinghabits(pickiersheepprefershort,tendergrassesandgoatsarehappydiningonjustaboutanyshrubs,grass,leaves,orvines),andtheirsocialbehavior(sheeplovetobepartoftheflockandthenaturallycuriousgoathasanindependentstreak).Butbythetimethesekinarriveatthebutchershoporonyourdinnerplate,youmightbehard-pressedtodistinguishbetweenthem.Thebreeds,diet,andlifestyleseemtohavemoreeffectontheflavorandfatcontentofthemeatthanthespeciesdo.Bothhavemeatthatcomesindelightfulrubyhues.Bothwholecarcasses

usuallyweighinaround50pounds(22.5kg).Fromabutcher’sperspective,bothyieldnearlyidenticalcuts.Theprimarydifferenceisthatgoattendstobeleaner,butnotdrasticallyso.Inthecharcuterie,thetwocanbeusedinterchangeablyforavarietyofsausagesandterrines,althoughsomeadditionalfatmaybeneededforleanergoats.Theflavorofthetwo,especiallyinmorematureanimals,issosimilarthatinsomeCaribbeanandAsiancountriesthewordmuttonisusedcolloquiallytodescribebothsheepandgoat.

SheeparedescendedfromthewildmouflonofEuropeandtheNearEastandareoneoftheoldestspeciestobedomesticated.Todaysomeonethousanddistinctbreedsexist,agreaternumberthananyotherlivestock.Sheepbreedsareclassifiedbytheirprimarypurpose:meat,milk,orwool.Meatsheeparedistinguishedbytheirage:alambisananimallessthan1yearold,ahoggetisamaleorfemale1to2yearsold,andamuttonisafemaleoracastratedmalemorethan2yearsold,thoughthetermmuttonisuncommoninUSbutchershopsandhoggetisnearlyunknown.Ingeneral,themeatfromyoungerlambsismilderandmoretenderthanthemeatofmorematureanimals.Butthemeatfromwell-raisedolderlambsandfrommuttonsandhoggetsthatisproperlyhungoragedcanhavearichlynuancedflavor,comparabletobeef,andstillbequitetender.

Goatistheworld’smostpopularsourceofanimalprotein,withstrongtiestothecuisinesofAfrica,Asia,theMiddleEast,theCaribbean,andSouthandCentralAmerica.Today’sgoatisthedescendantofthewildgoatofsouthwestAsiaandeasternEurope.Itisalean,nutritioussourceofmeat,withalowercarbonfootprintthanlamb,beef,orpork,andgoatiseversoslowlybecomingmoreamorepopularfixtureonmenusandinmarketsinNorthAmericaandnorthernEurope.Bothyounggoatsandthemeatofyounggoatsarecalledkid,

anddespiteitsreputationfortastinggamey,themeathasaflavorthatisoftenmilderthanlamb.

LambandGoatintheButcherShopAqualitybutchershopshouldbeabletoprovidegoodlocallamb,althoughincolderclimates,lambissometimesraisedseasonally.Becausegoatislesspopularinmanycommunities,youwillmostlikehavetospecialorderit.Avoidpurchasingimportedlambandgoat,whichisnearlyalwaysfrozenforitslongjourneyacrossthesea.Themeatofbothanimalscanrangefromrosytonearlywinecoloredbutshouldbevibrant.Thefatofbothanimalsshouldbefairlywhite,anditwillbeabitmoreabundantonthelamb.Whensearchingforagoodsourceforlamb,lookforabutchershopthatbuys

wholelambs.Theywillbeabletoofferyouavarietyofinterestingcutsbeyondjustpricey,popularrackandT-bones.Oftenoverlooked,shoulderisexcellentforbraises,stews,andbrochettesandcanalsobegroundforburgers.Slowlysimmeredshanksandnecksareacold-weatherfavorite.Bonelesslegisgreatforthegrill.Braisedtonguescanbethinlyslicedandaddedtoasalad.

LambandGoatintheCharcuterieTheintenseflavorandfirmfatoflambandgoatdonotlendthemselvesaseasilytocharcuterieasothermeatsdo,butincultureswherelambandgoatarestaples,andespeciallyincultureswhereporkistaboo,thetraditionoflambandgoatcharcuteriethrives.Thefattiershoulder,shank,andbreastareidealforsausagesandterrines,andthebreastcanalsobecuredandsmokedinamannersimilartoporkbacon.Braisedandslicedlambtonguesmakeasophisticatedterrinegarnish.

ButcheringWholeLambandGoat

Lambandgoatarestraightforwardbeaststobutcher.Theyaresmallerandmoresimplyputtogetherthanapig.Ifyouareanoviceintheworldofwholebeastbutchery,thesetwoanimalsprovideanexcellentjumpingoffpointforyoutotryyourhandatbreakingdownawholeanimal.

TheNeck,Shoulder,andForeshank

Lambandgoataregenerallysoldheadless,sothefirstthreecutsatthefrontendaretheneck,followedbytheshoulder,andthentheforeshankbelowthat.Allthreeofthesecutsarefairlylean,greatforstewingandbraising.Seestep-by-stepinstructions.

TheLegsandHindShanksTenderyetextremelyflavorfullegsaregreatforroastingandgrilling.Theycanbeleftonthebone,boned,butterflied,orbrokendownintosinglemuscleroastsorcubedforbrochettes.Thehindshanks,liketheforeshanks,arebestsuitedtobraisingandstewing.Seestep-by-stepinstructions.

TheMiddleThemiddleconsistsoftheshortloin,ribrack,andbreastorbelly.Leftwhole,theshortloinandribrackareperfectforroastingorgrilling.Alternatively,theycanbecutintochops(asinthephotobelow)andpansearedorgrilled.Thebellyorbreastisperfectforuseinthecharcuterie,whereitmakesagreatadditiontolambsausageorterrinesorcanbecuredforlambbacon.Seestep-by-stepinstructions.

THENECK,SHOULDER,ANDFORESHANK

1.Cutofftheneck.Theneckbendswhereitconnectstotheshoulder.Usingaboningknife,makeacutdowntothebone.Useasawtocutthroughthebone,thenfinishcuttingwiththeboningknifetosevertheneckcompletely.Theneckcanbeleftwholeorcutintocrosssectionsforbraising.

2.Removetheshoulders.Laythegoatonitsback.Usingaboningknife,cutbetweenthefourthandfifthribsononesideofthegoat,startingattheribcageend.(Ifyouhavedifficultycuttingthroughthebottomoftheribcage,useasawtocutthroughthebones,thenresumeusingtheknife.)Makealong,smoothcutbetweenthefourthandfifthribs,allthewayfromtheribcagedowntothebackbone.

3.Repeatontheoppositeside.Cutbetweenthefourthandfifthribsontheothersideofthegoat,allthewayfromtheribcagetothebackbone(again,usingthesawtocutthroughtheribcageifnecessary).Onceyougettothebackbone,usethesawtocutthroughitcompletely.Theshouldersshouldnowbecompletelyseveredfromthemiddle.

4.Cutofftheforeshanks.Thearmbonethatconnectstheshankandtheshoulderformsarightangleatthejoint.Makeacutwithyourboningknifeatthejointandsawthroughthebonetoremove.

5.Sawaparttheshoulders.Separatetheshouldersfromeachotherbysawingdirectlythroughthebackbone.

6.Bonetheshoulder(optional).Separatetheendsoftheribfromthebreastbone.

7.Scoreeachsideoftheribsallthewaydowntothebackbone,thenrunyourknifebehindeachtofreeitcompletelyfromthemuscle.Aseachboneisexposed,twistituntilitpopsoutofitssocketinthebackboneandcutitawaywiththeknife.

8.Removetherestofthebackboneoncealloftheribshavebeenremoved.

9.Next,removetheshoulderblade.Findtheendoftheshoulderblade,locatedroughlyinthecenteroftheshoulder.Holdingtheknifeparalleltothecuttingboard,sliptheknifebetweenthemeatandthebone.Runtheknifealongthetopoftheblade,directlyagainstthebone.Asyoucut,peelthemeatfromthetopoftheshoulderbladetowardyou.Theshoulderbladewillbegintonarrowuntilitmeetsthearmbone.Locatethesocketthatconnectsthetwowithyourfinger.Usingthetipoftheboningknife,freetheshoulderbladefromtheballjointofthearmbone,thenbegintooutlinethesidesofthebladewithyourknifebacktowardthewidestpartoftheblade.

10.Cutagainsttheboneontheundersideoftheshoulderblade.Roughlyhalfwaythrough,theboneformsaslightdownwardridge.Followtheridgewiththeknife.Cutclosetothebonealongeachsideoftheridgeuntilitseparatesfromthemusclecompletely.

11.Removethearmbonewhereitwasconnectedtotheshoulderbladebycuttingdowneachsideofitwiththeknife.Thencuttheunderside,leavingbehindasmuchmeataspossible.Usingyourboningknifecutawaytheremainingpieceofbackbone.

THELEGSANDHINDSHANKS

1.Removethetenderloins.Thetenderloinsarethetwolongcylindricalmusclesthatsitontheinsideofthebackboneintheabdominalcavity.Ifthelamborgoathasitskidneysintact,cutthemawaywithaboningknifetomakethetenderloinsmorevisible.

2.Nowseparatethelegsfromthemiddlesection.Lookatthelambfromitssideandnotewherethetopofthelegcurves.Roughlythree-fourthsofthewaydownthelengthofthetenderloinsfromtheshoulderend,cutawayfromtheribcagethroughtheflank.Sawthroughthebackbone.Repeattheinitialcutontheothersidetoremovebothlegs.

3.Sawapartthelegs.Separatethelegsfromeachotherbysawingdirectlythroughthebackbone.

4.Removetheaitchbone.Toremovethisaitchbonefromaleg,locatetheteardrop-shapedbone4to6inches(10to15cm)infromwhereyouseparatedthelegfromthemiddle.Onthesideclosesttoyou,usingtheboningknife,removethemeatfromaroundthebonewhereitprotrudesabovethesurface.Workingdirectlyagainsttheboneonthesideclosesttotheshank,cutroughly2inches(5cm)intothemeatuntilyouhitanotherbone.Thisiswheretheballjointofthefemurboneconnectstothesocketoftheaitchbone.Workthetipoftheknifebetweentheballjointandthesockettoseparatethetwo.Then,usingyourfreehand,peeltheaitchboneawayfromtheballjointwhilecuttingawaythelegmusclewiththeknife.Forabone-inlegroast,trimanyexcessfatfromtheedgesoftheleg,particularlyaroundtheflank.Thelegcanbetrussedifdesired.

5.Removethehindshank.Ifyoupreferbonelessroasts,beginbyremovingthehindshankwhereitbendsattheknee.Bendthekneebackandforthalittle,then,usingyourfingertip,findthegapbetweenthefemurandtheshankbone.Separatethehindshankwithyourknife,makingasstraightacutaspossible.Ifyouhavedifficultymakingthecutwiththeknife,sawthroughthebone,beingcarefultomakeacleancut.

6.Bonethelegs(optional).Removethefemurfromthelegbycuttingdirectlyalongthebonedownonesideandbackuptheother.Scrapetheundersideofthebonetoseparateitascleanlyaspossible.Separatethelegintoindividualroastsbycuttingatthenaturalseamsbetweenthemuscles,makingsuretoremoveanylargeglandsorbloodvesselsasyougo.Theglandsthatmustbetakenoutareyellowishtodarkgrayandwillmostoftenresideinthickpocketsoffatbetweenthemuscles.Theindividualroastscanbetrussedforuniformity.Besuretosaveanytrimforlambsausage.

THEMIDDLE

1.Splitthemiddle.Sawlengthwisethroughthebackboneofthemiddlesectiontoseparatetheleftandrighthalves.

2.Separatethebreastfromtheloin.Sawthroughtheribbonesparalleltothebackbone,roughly8inches(20cm)towardthebottomoftheribs.Onceyouhavesawedthroughalloftheribs,usetheboningknifetomakeonelongcutfromoneendofthemiddletotheother,followingtheseparationoftheribs.

3.Bonethebreast.Beginattheshoulderendwheretheribsitsflushagainsttheedgeofthebreastorbelly.Usingtheboningknife,andcuttingparalleltotheworksurface,carvetheribsawayfromthebelly,leavingalittlemeatonthemifyouplanonbraisingorsmokingthem.Savethebreastmeatforbraisingorforsausageorterrines.

4.Separatetheshortloinfromtheribrack.Usingtheboningknife,cutdirectlybehindthelastribdowntothebackbone.Usingaheavycleaverwithatowelfoldedovertopandarubbermallet,cutthroughthebackbonetoseparatetheshortloinfromtheribrack:holdingthehandleofthecleaverinonehand,useyourotherhandtotapthebackofthecleaverwiththemalletuntilthebladegoesthroughthebonecompletely.

5.Cuttheshortloinintochops.Usingthecleaverandmallet,cutalongthebackboneatroughly2-inch(5cm)intervalstobreaktheshortloinintofourorfivechops.

6.Removetheshoulderbladefromtheribrack.Locatetheremainingbitofshoulderbladethatsitsbehindthefirstthreeribs.Usingtheboningknife,cutawaytheshoulderblade,leavingasmuchmeataspossiblebehind.

7.Cutribchops.Cutbetweeneachribtoportionintoindividualchopsusingthecleaverandmalletmethoddescribedinstep4.

LambRibChopswithRasElHanout

LAMBRIBCHOPSWITHRASELHANOUT

RaselhanoutisaclassicNorthAfricanspiceblend.Looselytranslateditmeans“headoftheshop,”symbolizingthebestthespicemerchanthastooffer.Traditionally,theblendcontainsapanoramaofdifferentspices,usuallyabouttwentybutsometimesmanymore,andeachmerchanthashisorherownrecipe.Althoughwegenerallyadvocatetoastingandgrindingyourownspices,welovetheperfectlybalancedblendavailablefromourneighborsatWholeSpiceinNapa.Intheirversion,allspice,bayleaf,blackpepper,whitepepper,cardamom,cinnamon,chile,clove,cumin,ginger,mace,nutmeg,saffron,rosebuds,andmorearecarefullycombinedandgroundtoproduceatrulyaromaticmixperfectforseasoninglamb.SERVES4

8lambribchopsFineseasalt2clovesgarlic,crushed2driedbayleaves1

tablespoonthinlyslicedorangerind2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonraselhanout

Seasonthelambchopsonbothsideswithsalt.Inalarge,shallowbowl,combinethegarlic,bay,orangerind,andoliveoil

andmixwell.Addthelambchopstothebowlandturnasneededtocoatevenly.Sprinkletheraselhanoutoverthelambchopsandagainturnasneededtocoatevenly.Togrillthechops,prepareamedium-hotfirefordirect-heatgrillingina

charcoalgrill.Placethechopsonthegrillgratedirectlyoverthecoalsandgrill,turningthemonce,forabout2minutesoneachsideforrareorabout3minutesoneachsideformedium-raretomedium.Serveatonce.Alternatively,tocookonthestovetop,heatalargecast-ironskilletover

medium-highheatuntilhot.Addthechopsandcook,turningoften,forabout5

to7minutestotal.Serveatonce.

TOFRENCHORNOTTOFRENCH?

Forpresentation,manybutcherswillremoveagoodportionofthebackbone(orchine)fromtherackand“french,”ortrimallofthemeatandfatfromthetopportionoftheribstoexposethebone.Althoughthisgivestherackadramaticlook,itlessensitssucculence.Weprefertokeepthechineattachedandleavealittlemeatandfatclingingtotheribbones.Meatcookednexttotheboneisalwaysmoredelicious.Removingthechineontheinsideoftheloinexposesthedelicatemuscletodryheatasitroasts,whichincreasesthechancesthatitwillgofromperfecttoovercookedwithinseconds.Whenyouleavethechineattached,itprovidesyouabitofinsurance.Thechinecaneasilybecarvedawayaftercooking,beforeyousliceandservetherack.Themeatalongtheribbonesisalsoatreat.Peelingtheexcessawayrobsyouofthedelightsofgnawingallthatribmeatawayoncethechopmeathasbeendevoured.

GoatShoulderBirria

GOATSHOULDERBIRRIA

Wheneverwegetawholegoatshoulder,wefixapotofbirria,icedownsomebeers,andinviteoverafewfriends.Birria,whichtranslatesliterallyas“amess,”isaspicyMexicanstewtraditionallypreparedforholidaysandspecialoccasions.Themarriageoftoastedchiles,headyspices,andflavorfulgoatmeatisahappyone,wellworthcelebrating.Goodfreshgoatcansometimesbetrickytoprocure,sobesuretoarrangewithyourlocalbutcheraheadoftime.Lambshoulderorlambshankscanalsobeusedinplaceofgoat.SERVES6TO8

1bone-ingoatshoulder,5to6pounds(2.3to2.7kg)Fineseasalt

4anchochiles4guajillochiles6driedcascabelchiles1teaspoon

peppercorns,toasted1teaspooncuminseeds,toasted2wholecloves1-inch(2.5cm)piececinnamonstick2serrano

chiles,seededandchopped1cup(150g)choppedyellowonion4clovesgarlic,coarselychopped1teaspoondriedMexicanoregano¼cup(60ml)fruityvinegarsuchasciderorplantain1(12–fluidounce/360ml)bottlebeer2pounds(900g)Romatomatoes,roasted,seeded,andpureed6to8tablespoons(60to85g)mincedwhiteonion6to8tablespoons(8to10g)choppedfreshcilantroPlentyoftortillas,warmedLimewedges,forserving

Onedayahead,seasonthegoatshoulder.Rubthemeatliberallywithsaltandsettheshoulderinawidebowl.

Toasttheancho,guajillo,andcascabelchilesonacomal(aMexicangriddle)oracast-ironskilletovermediumheatforabout1minute,untilfragrantandpliable.Turnoutontoaplatetocool.Removethestemandseedsfromeachchileanddiscard.Tearthechilesintosmallerpieces,placeinabowl,addwarmwatertocover,andletsoakforabout30minutes,untilsoftened.Drainthechiles,reservingthechilesandsoakingliquidseparately.Usingthesamecomalorskillet,toastthepeppercorns,cumin,cloves,and

cinnamonovermediumheatforabout5minutes,untilfragrant.Turnoutontoaplatetocool,thentransfertoamortarorspicegrinderandgrindfinely.Inablender,combinethesoftenedchiles,serranos,yellowonion,garlic,

oregano,groundspices,andvinegarandpureeuntilsmooth.Ifthemixtureistoothick,addafewtablespoonsofthereservedchilesoakingliquidtothintoagoodpasteconsistency.Coatthegoatshoulderwiththechilepaste,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,positionarackinlowerthirdoftheovenandpreheatto

275°F(135°C).Tocookthestew,youwillneedalarge,sturdypotorbraiserfittedwithasteamerinsertorarack.Pourthebeerintothepot.Setthegoatshoulderontherackorinthesteamerbasket.Scrapeanyextrachilepasteoverthemeat.Setthepotovermediumheatandbringthebeertoasimmer.Coverthepot

andplaceintheoventosteamslowlyforabout4hours,monitoringtheprogressaboutonceeveryhour.Ifthebeerbeginstoevaporate,add1cup(240ml)boilingwatertothepot.Removefromtheovenwhenthemeatpullseasilyawayfromthebone.Transferthemeattoaplatterandremovethesteamerinsert.Ideally,youwill

haveabout3cups(720ml)cookingliquidleftinthebottomofthepot.Ifnot,addenoughwater(orbroth)tomakeupthedifference.Addthetomatoestothepot,placeoverlowheat,andsimmerforabout20minutes,untilslightlythickened.Tasteforseasoning.Sliptheboneoutoftheshoulderandcutorshredthemeatintolargechunks.Toservethebirria,placeportionsofthegoatmeatintodeepbowlsandladle

thesauceoverthemeat.Topeachbowlwith1tablespooneachwhiteonionandcilantro.Servewiththetortillasandlimewedges.Alternatively,servethebirriaatthetablewithtortillasandgarnishesontheside.

Beef

Beef,sourceofendlesscravingsanddeephankerings,isthedelicious,blood-redmeatofdomesticcattle.Cattlearethedescendantsofthenow-extinctaurochsthatoncegrazedthegrasslandsofEurope,NorthAfrica,andAsia.Theancestorsoftoday’smodernherdweremostlikelydomesticatedsomewhereintheFertileCrescentabouttenthousandyearsagotoprovideancienthumanswithmilk,leather,draftpower,fertilizer,and,ofcourse,tasty,tastybeef.Cattlearegrazers,consumingvastamountsofgrassandrequiringmoreland

thananyotherdomesticanimal.Andunlikemodernporkandpoultryfarming,forthemajorityoftheirlives,cattlearestillraisedoutdoorsonsmallerfamilyfarms,oftenreferredtoascow-calfoperations.Inmanycases,whentheircalvesareweanedandofareasonablesize,small-scalefarmerssellthemofftolargerconcernsorfeedlots,wheretheyare“finished”onadietofgrain,mainlycorn,thathelpstopackonthepounds.Insomecases,however,thecattleareallowedtomaturefurtheronpasturefor

anadditional6to12months,sometimeswithasmallsupplementofmorenaturalgrains.That’sthegoodbeef.Cattlethathavebeenallowedtomatureslowlywillnaturallyproducebeefwithdepthofflavorandwithcharacteristicsinfluencedbytheirbreedandtheirdiet.

BeefintheButcherShop

Agoodbutcherwillsourcegoodbeef.Ifyouwantthebestquality,lookforbeefthathasliveditslifenaturallyonpasturewithouthormonesandantibiotics.Lookforashopthatuseswholecarcasses,quarters,oratleastprimalcutsofbeef.Itwillhaveasuperiorselectionofcuts,willhavetheabilitytocustomcut,andwillmostlikelybegrindingfreshbeefdaily.Ifyouarelucky,thebeefmayevenbeagedin-house.

BeefCutsCattlearebigcreatures,andtheworldofbeefcutsisvast.Thereareoftentwo,three,orevenfourdifferentwaystobutcherthesameprimalcut,whichcanmakethingsevenmoreperplexing.Weliketothinkofbeefintermsofhowwewillbepreparingit.Doyoufeellikeeatingaplateofcarpaccio,asteakoffthegrill,orawarmingbowlofbeefstew?Oftenseveralcutscanserveasimilarpurpose.Thefinalpreparationshouldbeyourguideinpurchasing.

RawBeefFreshlycutrawbeefthatisthinlyslicedorfinelychoppedisadelicioustreatwithculinaryrootsaroundtheworld.Alwaysseekoutthebest-qualitybeef,especiallyforrawpreparations,andalwaysmakesureitisperfectlyfresh.Ingeneral,beefforrawpreparationsshouldbefairlyleanandrelativelytender.Besuretotellyourbutcheryouplanoneatingitrawsoheorshecanfindyouthebestcuts.

Tenderloin:Thenamesaysitall.Thistender,oblong-shapedmusclespanstwoprimalcuts:theshortloinandthesirloin.Forcarpaccio,steaktartare,andotherrawbeefdishes,selectacutfromthelargeend,closesttothesirloin.Besuretotrimawayanysilverskinfromtheoutside,whichisunpleasantlychewy.

Sirloin:Lean,relativelytender,andflavorful,sirloinisagoodalternativetopriciertenderloinandworkswellinallraw-beefpreparations.

EyeofRound:Thisleanbutwellexercisedandoftentoughcutisfromthecenteroftheround.Althoughitistougherthantheloinandsirloin,itcanbethinlyslicedandlightlypoundedtotenderizeitenoughtoserveitraw.Or,itcanbefinelychoppedandservedraw.ThisflavorfulcutworkswellinsuchdishesasVietnamesebotaichanh,araw-beefsaladinwhichthebeefisfirstmarinatedincitrusjuice,orEthiopiankitfo,adishofchoppedrawbeeftossedinawarmspicebutter.

BeefSeared,Roasted,orGrilledLeanercuts,cutsfromless-usedmuscles,andthincutsdobestseared,roasted,orgrilledusinghot,dryheattoproducemeatwithanirresistiblebrownexterior,preservingatender,rosyinterior.

StandingRibRoastorPrimeRib:Thiscelebratedbeefroast,aholidayfavorite,iscomprisedofribssixthroughtwelveinitsentiretybutcanbecutintosmaller(two-tosix-rib)roasts.Thismassivecutshouldalwaysbeseasonedseveraldaysinadvanceofcookingandbroughttoroomtemperaturebeforecooking.Thestandingribcanbecookedonthegrillorintheovenandisusuallystartedataveryhighheatandthenallowedtofinishatalowertemperature.Ifyouareservingstandingribcarvedoffthebone,besuretobrownthebonesalittlelongerbeforeserving.

RibEyeorEntrecote:Thiswell-marbledsteakisfromtheribsectioniscomprisedofthelongissimusmuscleandthebutteryspinalis,orcap.Agrilledribeyeisthesteakthatcowboysdreamof.

T-Bone:Asteakcutfromtheshortloin,theT-boneismadeupofthetenderloinandstriploin,connectedwithaT-shapedbone,similartoaporterhousebutwithasmallersectionoftenderloin.

Porterhouse:LiketheT-bone,theporterhousesteakincludesthetenderloinandNewYorkstripconnectedwithaT-shapedbone,butwithagreaterportionoftenderloin.Thisglamorouscutoftengetstopbillingonsteakhousemenus.Butbuyerbeware:thebonerunningthroughthecentercanmaketheporterhouse

difficulttocookevenly.NewYork,StripSteak,ShellSteak,orKansasCityStrip:Moremarbledthanits

neighboringtenderloin,thiscut,relativelylowinconnectivetissue,isquitetender.Manypreferthiscuttothefattierribeye.Steakscutfromthebackend,closertothesirloin,tendtohavemoreconnectivetissueandcanbetougher.

Tenderloin:Thisverylean,longmuscletuckedbeneaththeribsandnexttothebackboneiswellsuitedtofast,high-heatcooking.Wholetenderloinsareavailableunpeeled(fatandsilverskinintact),peeled(fathasbeenremovedbutsilverskinremains),orasPSMO—anacronymforpeeled,sidemuscleon.Thetenderloincanbefurtherdissectedintothefiletmignon,acutfromthenarrowendofthetenderloinnearesttherib,andthechateaubriand,athickcutfromthecenterorlargeendofthetenderloinclosesttothesirloin.Ifyouplanoncookingatenderloinwhole,tuckthethinnerendunderitselfandtieitasyouwouldaroasttoensurethatitcooksevenly.Leantenderloinisoftenpairedwitharichsaucesuchasbéarnaise.

Sirloin:Lean,flavorful,andtender,sirloinisfoundbehindtheshortloinandcanbecutintobonelesssteaksorroasts.Ifyouareroastingawholesirloin,besuretoremovetheinteriorsinewyseambeforeseasoningandtying.

Tri-Tip:Asmall,triangular-shapedbonelesscutfromthebottomofthesirloin,thetri-tiplikesalengthierspanonthegrill,fatsidedown,overalazyfire.

EyeofRound:Thistypicallyquiteleanandmoderatelychewycutfromthecenteroftheroundworkswellifroastedhotandleftfairlyrare.Becauseitisparticularlythickanddense,itshouldbeseasonedadayortwoinadvance.

BavetteorSirloinFlap:Aclassicbistrosteakcutclosetotheflank,thisrelativelythincutrequiresahot,fastsearorgrill.Itcanbeusedasasubstituteforskirtsteak.

Flank:Along,flat,leancutfromtheabdominalareabehindtheplate,flankneedstobecookedquicklyathighheattorareormedium-raretoavoidbecomingropey.

Skirt:Along,flat,flavorfulcutfromtheplateorinsideoftheribcage,skirtsteakcallsforveryhighheatinordertobrownwithoutovercooking.Itmakesexcellentcarneasadatacos.

Hanger,Onglet,orButcher’sSteak:Thislong,tubularcutcomesfromtheinteriorplatesectionthathangsfromthediaphragmneartheliver,thusitsname.Hangerhasarich,almostliveryflavorandisabistrofavorite,perfectforsteakfrites.Whenslicingcookedhangersteak,notethatthegrainchangesdirectionasthe

meattapers.ShortRib(ThinCut):Cutfromtheribandplate,thin-cutshortribsarecutsothat

theyneedonlyahot,fastgrilltocookthemthrough.Astronglyflavoredmarinadeworksbestwiththeseribs.

Flatiron:Cutfromundertheshoulderblade,theflatironisflavorfulandcooksveryevenly.

TopRound:Notthemostmarbledortenderroastingcut,toproundmakesareliableroastbeef.

BeefBraised,Stewed,orSmokedCutsofbeefthatarewellexercised,tough,andfullofconnectivetissuearerenderedtenderanddeliciouswhencookedslowandlowusingeitheramoistcookingmethodsuchasstewingorbraisingoralow-heatsmoke.Alwaysbesuretosaltthesecutsatleastadayahead(longerforlargercuts)toensuretheseasoningfullypenetratesthemeat.

Neck:Beefneck,greatforstewing,isgenerallycrosscut,similartooxtail.Along,slowsimmermakestheneckmeattenderandsucculent.

Chuck:Thislargeshouldercutyieldsanabundanceofstewmeatandpotroasts.Marblingcanvaryonchuck,solookcloselyforwell-marbledpieces.Theeyeofthechuck,thecircularmuscleclosesttotheloin,ispreferredforpotroasts.

Brisket:Cutfromthebreastareaandconsistingoftheanimal’spectoralmuscles,brisketisloadedwithconnectivetissue,andifproperlysmokedorbraised,itcanbeextremelytenderanddelicious.Brisketshouldhaveathickfatcapononesidethathelpstokeepthemeatmoistduringcooking.Cookthebrisketwiththefatcapsideuptoprotectthemeat.

ShortRibs:Thiscut,whichcomesfromboththeplateandrib,isrich,meaty,andtenderwhenbrownedandbraised.Thewholeshortribisgenerallycutoneoftwoways,eitherEnglishcut(intoshort,thicklengths)orflankenorlongcut(acrossthebones).

Shank:Thislegcutistoughandsinewyandneedsalong,slowsimmertorenderittender.Shankcanbepurchasedonoroffthebone.Bonelessshankcanbecutintostewmeat.

Oxtail:Literallytheanimal’stail,thisbony,gelatin-ladensectionisusuallycrosscut,perfectforbraisingorstewing.

BottomRound:Leanandtoughbottomrounddoesnotsuccumbeasilytotenderness.Thinlysliced,itcanberolledandbraisedasinbracioleorsmoked

anddriedforjerky.

ThePriceofDryAgingDryagingbeefforaperiodafterslaughtermakesfortastier,moretendermeat.Itallowsforsomelossofmoisture,whichconcentratesflavor,andprovidesthenaturallyoccurringenzymestimetobreakdownthetoughconnectivetissues.Betterbeefisusuallyhungfor1to2weeks.Certaincuts,suchastheribandshortloin,benefitfromanevenlongerperiodofabout4weeks.Thisallowstimeforthedevelopmentoffungithatcreatethedistinctivedry-agedflavor.Forabutcher,dryagingbeefiscostlyintermsoflabor,materials,andreal

estate.Thebeefwillloseagoodamountofweightduetoevaporationandbecausetheexposedsurfaceareasmustbetrimmed.Thatmeansthatthebutchermustsellitforasignificantlyhigherpriceperpoundthanmeatthathasnotbeenagedthesameway.Butifyoulovethetasteofgooddry-agedbeef,itiswellworththepricetag;justfollowthe“eatlessquantitybuthigherquality”ethos.

BeefintheCharcuterieBeefdoesn’tfigureasprominentlyinthecharcuterieasporkorduck.Still,chuck,shortrib,andbrisket,allflavorfulcutsfromtheforequarterwithevenlydispersedfat,areexcellentforuseinsausageandinmeatloaves.Brisketcanalsobebrinedandsmokedforpastrami.Theeyeofroundisoftencuredandair-driedforBresaola.Gelatin-ladenoxtailscanmakearichpottedmeat.Becausebeeffatisveryfirm,beefmusttypicallybegroundtwicewhenusedforsausageandsalami,suchasourPepperoni.

ButcheringBeef

Althoughcattleareessentiallylargerversionsofgoatsandsheep,muscularlyspeaking,theyareroughlytentimesthesize,andbeefbutcheryisamoreintricateprocess.Goodbeefbutcheryisanartform.Ifyouareconsideringtryingyourhandatbeefbutchery,aclassorinternshipwithaprofessionalisagoodplacetobegin.Or,youcanstartsmallandpracticebutcheringsubprimalsandprimals.

PEPOSO

Thisisoneofthemostdelicious,simple,andlow-maintenancestewseverdevised.ItsoriginslieinthemedievalTuscantownofImpruneta,justsouthofFlorence,famousforitsterra-cottatiles.Thetilemakerswouldfillapotwithcheapcutsofbeef,seasonthemeatwithpepperandgarlic,andaddwinetocover,andthenslidethepotintothestill-warmkilnwhentheyfinishedfiringfortheday.Thisversionincludesthemodernadditionoftomatopaste,buttheideaisthesame.Themeatdoesnotrequirebrowning,andyoucanuseanybeeftrimmingsyouhaveonhand,aslongastheyaresomewhatconsistentinsize.Youcanslipthepotintotheovenbeforeyouhitthesack,andyouwillwakethenextmorningtoaperfectlycookedpotoftenderbeefstew.Traditionally,thisstewisservedwarmwithnothingmorethangood

breadandmorewine,butitisalsoquitegoodspoonedoverpasta,polenta,ormashedpotatoes.SERVES6

3pounds(1.4kg)bonelessstewingbeef(suchaschuck,shankmeat,orbrisket),cutintoroughly1½-inch(4cm)cubes12clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole2tablespoonstomatopaste1tablespoonfineseasalt¾teaspoonchileflakes¾teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1(750ml)bottleredwine(suchasChiantiClassicoorSangiovese)

Preheattheovento200°F(95°C).Placethebeef,garlic,andtomatopasteintoasouppotorDutchoven.

Sprinklethesalt,chileflakes,andpepperevenlyoverthebeefandgarlicandstirtocoatevenly.Pourthewineintothepot.Placethepotonthestovetopovermediumheatandbringtoalivelysimmer.

Lidthepotandtransfertotheoven.Cookfor8hours,untilthemeatismeltinglytender.Dependingonthecutsused,thestewmayneedtobedefatted.Thisisdone

mosteasilywhenthestewischilled.Uncoverthepotandallowthestewtocooltoroomtemperature.Thenrefrigerateit2to3hourstoallowthefattosolidify.Whenthefathashardenedonthesurface,liftitoffandreserveitforanotheruse,thenreheatthestewtoserve.

RibEyeforTwo

RIBEYEFORTWO

Whatbetterwaytoexpressyourloveforsomeonethantocookhimorherafat,sexyribeyeoveraglowingwoodfire?Theribeye,alsoknownasthecowboysteak,isacutthatsaysyouareamanorwomanwithaplan,thatyouarewillingtotakethetimetodothingsright.Athick,dry-agedribeyealsosaysyouarewillingtopaythesteeppriceforbothloveandgoodmeat.Planahead.Beginwithaphonecalltoyourbutchertoinquirepolitely

aboutprocuringthemostbeautiful,dry-aged,bone-inribeyeheorshecancutforyou,preferablyfromthefirstthreeribsofa109A(akabeefrib,roast-ready,special)—butcher’sspeakforacutthatisextremelyflavorfulandwellmarbled.Letthemknowitisforlove.Allbutchersareromanticsatheart.Accompanythebeefwithgoodbread,asimplegreensalad,anda

worthybottleofwine.SERVES2

1bone-inwholeribeyesteak,preferablydryaged,about3inches(7.5cm)thickFineseasalt

2tablespoonsoliveoilFleurdesel,forserving

Seasontheribeye2daysinadvance.Channelyourinnerchefandsprinklethesaltfromonhigh,sothatitdistributesevenlyoverthesteak.Besuretogetsidesaswellastherindoffatontheouterrimofthesteak.Placethesteakonaplate,coverlooselywithacleankitchentowel(itneedstobreathe),andrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,turnthesteakover,re-coverwiththetowel,andrefrigeratefor1moreday.Removetheribeyefromtherefrigerator2hoursbeforegrillingtotemper.

Thecloserthebeefistoroomtemperature,themoreevenlyitwillcook.Thisresultsinasteakorroastthatismedium-rarethroughoutratherthanwelldonearoundtheedgesandmedium-rareonlyinthecenter.Massageabout1tablespoonoftheoliveoilintoeachsideoftheribeye.Prepareahotfirefordirect-heatgrillinginacharcoalgrill.Oak,mesquite,or

almondburnswellandprovidesadelicateperfumethatenhancestheflavorofthebeef.Scrubyourgrillgrateifithasbeenawhile.Nosootshallsoilyoursoon-to-be-perfectsteak.Whenthefirehasburneddowntohotcoals(youshouldbeabletoholdyourhand6inches/15cmabovethefirefornomorethan3seconds),laythesteakonthegrate.After5minutes,liftthesteakgently,rotateit90degrees,andsetitbackdownonthegrill.Afteranother5minutes,turnthesteakoverandrepeat.Lastly,turnthesteaktorestonitssideonthegrilltocrisptheedge.Totestfordoneness,insertathermometerintothethickestpartofthesteakascloseaspossibletothebonewithouttouchingit.Forrare,removethesteakat105°F(40°C).Formedium-rare,takeitoffat110°F(43°C).Foranythingabove110°F(43°C),thisisthewrongrecipeandthewrongsteak.Transferthesteaktoacuttingboardandcutawaytherib.Placetheribback

onthegrilltobrownandcrisp.Letthesteakrestfor8to10minutesbeforecarving.Whileyouwait,setthetablewithyourgoodsteakknivesandadishoffleurdesel.Usingasharpknife,cutthesteakintothreesectionsfollowingitsnatural

seams.Startbyremovingtheteardrop-shapedmuscleatthebottom(therib-eyecap,orspinalisdorsi)andthenremovethetriangular-shapedpieceoffattymeatatthetopofthesteak.Thisleavesthelargecircularpieceinthemiddleknownastheeye.Sliceeachpiececrosswisethroughthemusclesothatyouhavetwoidenticalpiecesofeachmuscle.Fetchthebrownedriboffthegrill.Toserve,place1pieceofeachofthemusclesoneachplate.Youwillhaveto

sharetherib—orfightoverit.

CarneCruda

CARNECRUDA

AfteralongtranscontinentalflightwithmissedconnectionsandajarringcarridefromNice,wefinallyarrivedinadorableAlbatoolateforlunch.Wefoundonetinyrestaurantabouttoshutitsdoorsfortheafternoonthattookpityonus.Thekitchenwasofficiallyclosed,butthestafffixedusaplateofcarnecruda,aslightlyintimidatingheapofhand-cutrawbeefdrizzledwitholiveoilandaccompaniedwithalemonwedge.Itwasalove-at-first-bitemoment,andtooursurprise,wepolisheditoffwithgusto,thenproceededtoeatourweightinvariousincarnationsofcarnecrudathroughoutPiedmont.Bothwell-trimmedsirloinandtenderloin,twocutsthatarelean,

flavorful,andtender,workwellinthisrecipe.Itiscrucialtousefreshhigh-qualitybeefandtocutthemeatbyhand.Toensureasmall,uniformdice,chillthebeefthoroughlybeforehandanduseasturdy,sharpchef’sknife.Crispflatbreads,crostini,orhalvedhard-boiledeggsmakeexcellentaccompaniments.SERVES6ASANHORSD’OEUVREOR4ASA

FIRSTCOURSE

1pound(450g)leanbeefsirloinortenderloin,wellchilled1teaspooncoarseseasalt(suchasMaldonorfleurdesel)¼teaspoonfinelygroundpepper1clovegarlic,finelychoppedJuiceof1lemon

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyGeneroushandfulofarugula,cutintonarrowribbons⅓cup(75ml)extra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforfinishing

Trimanysilverskin,gristle,orlargepiecesoffatfromtheexteriorofthebeef,thencutinto¼-inch(6mm)cubes.Placethebeefinabowl.Addthesalt,pepper,garlic,lemonjuice,parsley,andhalfofthearugulaandfoldthemintothebeeftomixevenly.Stirintheoliveoilandtasteforseasoning.Toserve,moundthebeefmixtureontoalargeplate.Garnishwiththe

remainingarugulaanddrizzlewitholiveoil.

RareRoastBeef

RAREROASTBEEF

Inthecharcuterie,theeyeofround,along,lean,toughcutofbeeftuckedbetweenthetoproundandbottomround,isusuallyturnedintoBresaola,acured,air-driedcutofbeef.Eyeofroundisalsodeliciouswhenroastedrare.Thebeefisseasoned2fulldaysaheadofroastingtoallowtheflavorstopenetratethisthickcut,andtheresultisatender,rosyroast.Whenpurchasingeyeofroundforroasting,askyourbutcherforanuntrimmedone.Thefatwillhelptokeepthemeatmoistwhilecooking.Thisbeefisnotcookedtotemperature—whenit’sbrown,it’sdone.Ifyouknowyourovenrunshot,keepaneyeonthebeefsoitdoesn’tovercook.Weliketoservewarmslicesofthisrareroastdrizzledwithgood

balsamicandtoppedwithalightlydressedarugulasalad.Itcanalsoberoastedaheadandservedchilled,accompaniedbyhorseradishsauceoraioli.Leftoversmakegreatsandwiches.SERVES6TO8,WITHLEFTOVERS

(DEPENDINGONAPPETITES)

2clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwholeFineseasalt

1untrimmedeyeofround,about5pounds(2.3kg)1juniperberry

1tablespoonpeppercorns2driedbayleaves1tablespoondriedsage1tablespoondriedrosemary1tablespoonbrownsugar¼cup(60ml)oliveoil

Usingamortarandpestle,poundthegarliccloveswith½teaspoonsaltuntilcrushedtoapaste.Rubthecrushedgarlicalloverthebeef,thensaltthebeefgenerouslywithadditionalseasalt,roughly3tablespoonsfora5-pound(2.3kg)roast.Inaspicegrinder,combinethejuniperberry,peppercorns,bay,sage,and

rosemaryandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addthesugar,andstirtomixwell.Rubthemixtureoverthebeef.Wrapthebeeftightlyinplasticwrapor

vacuumsealandrefrigeratefor48hours.Removethebeeffromtherefrigeratorandallowtotemperfor2hoursbefore

roasting.Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharackandplacethetemperedroastontherack.Rub

theroastwitholiveoilandplaceintheoven.Roastfor10minutes,thenrotatethepan180degreesandroastforanadditional8minutes.Removefromtheovenandletrestfor10to15minutesbeforeslicing.

W

4

SKEWERED,ROLLED,TIED&STUFFED

henyouyearnformorethanjustaplainroastorchop,pickupyourknife,grabyourballofbutcher’stwine,andlearntomaneuverbeyondthebasicsofbutchery.AttheFattedCalf,weprideourselvesonmakingsucculentskewers,stuffedbirdsandbeasts,andseasonedroaststhatrangefromtheclassictotheunusual.Thesespecialtiesareasbeautifultobeholdastheyaretosavoratthetable.Masteringahandfulofniftyskillswillallowyoutobutcher,season,cook,andcarvewithflourish.Thosetechniques,combinedwithmarinadesandseasonalstuffings,willhelpyoutoelevatesimplehunksofmeattoimpressivecenterpiecesforalloccasions.

Skewered

Cookingmeatonskewersisalmostasoldaslightingafire.Itishardtoresisttheancientallureofmeatonastick.Quickandversatile,itisperfectforfeedingasfewastwoorasmanyastwenty.Mostcutsofmeat,fromduckbreasttogoatlegs,canbeskewered.Although

leanandtendercutsareoftenfavored,eventhosecutsnottraditionallyassociatedwithhigh-heatgrilling,suchasshouldercutsofpork,beef,goat,or

lamb,canworkequallywell.Theyareflavorful,especiallywhenmarinatedaheadoftime,andifyouhavenotlosttheabilitytochewyourfood,theyareagoodchoiceforskewering.Avoidusingoverlytoughcutswithanabundanceofconnectivetissue,suchasshankandneckcuts.Cutorcubethemeatintosimilar-sizepieces,usually1to1½inches(2.5to4cm),toensureuniformcooking.Youwantplentyofsurfaceareaforbrowning(whichimprovesflavor),butthepiecesmustnotbesosmallthatyoulosethejuicy,succulentcenter.Seasonthemeatbeforeskeweringtoallowtheflavorstodevelop.Forleanermeats,afewhourswillsuffice.Formorerobustcuts(suchaslamborporkshoulder),adayortwoisbest.Avarietyofoptionsexistforspearinganymeat,frombamboosticksto

lengthsofsugarcane.Althoughmostaremerelyavehicleforthemeat,some,suchaslemongrassorsturdyherbstems,aremeanttoimpartflavor.Reusablestainless-steelskewersarepreferredformostjobs.Becausetheyaregoodheatconductors,theyspeedthecooking,andunlikewoodenskewers,theyneversplinterorburn.Thatsaid,bambooskewersdefinitelyhavetheirplace,especiallyatpartiesoraroundthecampfire.Topreventtheexposedwoodonbambooorotherwoodenskewersfromburning,soakthemincoldwatertocoverforatleastahalfhourbeforethreadingmeatontothem,andbesuretopositionapieceofmeatoverthetipofeachskewer.Whenyouarenearlyreadytoskewer,removetheseasonedmeatfromthe

refrigeratortotemperforaboutahalfhour.Justaswithsteaksorroasts,temperingthemeat(thatis,bringingittoroomtemperature)helpsittocookmoreevenly.Ifyouareusingwoodenskewers,besuretheyhavebeensoakedinwaterbeforeskewering.Threadthepiecesofmeatthroughtheircenterorthickestpartontotheskewer,spacingthematleast1inch(2.5cm)apart.Althoughitmaylookmoreappealingtohavethemeatpiecestightlypackedontheskewer,spacingthemgenerouslyhelpsthemeattobrownmorethoroughlyandcookmoreevenly.Likewise,decoratingyourmeatyskewerswithacornucopiaofseasonalvegetablesmakesthemprettyandcolorful,butmeatsandvegetablesseldomcookatthesamerateandshouldbeskeweredseparately.Ifyouarecookingdifferentcutsonthesameskewer,besuretochoosecutsthatwillcookatmoreorlessthesamerate.Moredelicatecuts,suchasleanpoultry,rabbit,ororganmeats,benefitfromaprotectivelayeroffatwrappedaroundeachpiece.Caulfatorthinlyslicedbaconorpancettaworkswell.Threadoddlyshapedorunwieldypiecesofmeatontotwoparallelskewerstopreventthemeatfromfloppingaroundduringcooking.

Althoughyoucancookskewersunderabroilerorinagrillpan,thereisnorealsubstituteforgrillingoverafireoutdoors.Cookskeweredmeatsoverrelativelyhighheat,around550°F(290°C),orroughlythesametemperatureyouwoulduseforasteakorchop.Ifyouaregrillingovercharcoal,placeyourskewersonthegrillthemomenttheflamesdiedown,leavingactivecoalsthatradiatealargeamountofheat.Turnyourskewerseveryminuteorsotobrownonallsides.Skewerscookquickly,mostofthemtakingnomorethan8to10minutes.

PORKBROCHETTESWITHHERBESDEPROVENCE

Thealluringscentoftheseporkmorsels,crustedinblackpepper,whitepepper,andherbesdeProvence,ishardtoresistasitwaftsoffthegrill.Thesebrochettes,asummertimefavoriteattheFattedCalf,areanexcellentchoiceforalargegathering.Therecipecaneasilybedoubledortripled,andthemeatcanbeseasonedwellinadvance.SERVES6

2½pounds(1.2kg)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1½-inch(4cm)cubes2½teaspoonsfineseasalt4clovesgarlic,lightlycrushed1yellowonion,sliced½inch(12mm)thick2tablespoonsoliveoil½teaspoonblackpeppercorns¼teaspoonwhitepeppercorns2tablespoonsHerbesdeProvence

Seasontheporkwiththesalt.Inalargebowl,combinethegarlic,onion,andoliveoil.Addtheseasonedporkandturntocoatevenly.Inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercornsandherbsandgrindfinely.Dust

themixtureoverthepork,thenmixtocoatevenly.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast1dayandpreferablyfor2to3days.Ifyouaremarinatingforlongerthan1day,besuretomixtheporkonceadaytoredistributetheseasonings.Prepareamedium-hotfireinacharcoalgrill.Threadtheporkcubesonto

skewers,spacingthemabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Discardtheonions,garlic,andotherremnantsofthemarinade.Grilltheskewers,turningfrequently,for8to10minutes,untilevenlybrownedonallsides.Alternatively,cooktheskewersunderapreheatedbroiler,turningthem

frequently,usingthesametiming.

Harissa-MarinatedLambKebabs

HARISSA-MARINATEDLAMBKEBABS

HarissaisaNorthAfricanhotsauceusedtospiceupavarietyofdishes,meatyandotherwise.Althoughitisusuallyservedasacondimentalongsidefood,italsomakesawonderfullyspicymarinadeforfuller-flavoredmeatssuchasgoat,beef,orlamb.Ifyouareaspicefiend,mixupalittleextraharissatodrizzleoveryourskewersatthetable.Servethekebabsovercouscousorwrappedinflatbread,accompaniedwithgrilledvegetablesandlemon-scentedyogurtsauce.SERVES6

2½pounds(1.2kg)bonelesslambleg,cutinto1½-inch(4cm)cubes2½teaspoonsfineseasaltHARISSA

1teaspooncuminseeds,toastedandground1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1½

teaspoonscrusheddriedAleppopepper1½teaspoonsunsmokedSpanishpaprika½teaspoongroundcayenne½yellowonion,sliced¼inch(6mm)thick3clovesgarlic,crushed1tablespoonoliveoil

Inalargebowl,seasonthelambwiththesaltandmixwell.Tomaketheharissa,inasmallbowl,combinethecumin,blackpepper,

Aleppopepper,paprika,cayenne,onion,garlic,andoliveoilandstirtoincorporate.Pourtheharissaovertheseasonedlambandmixwell.Covertightlyandrefrigerateforatleast1dayandpreferablyfor2to3days.Ifyouaremarinatingforlongerthan1day,besuretomixthelambonceadaytoredistributetheseasonings.Prepareamedium-hotfireinacharcoalgrill.Threadthelambcubesonto

skewers,spacingthemabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Discardtheonion,garlic,andotherremnantsofthemarinade.Grilltheskewers,turningfrequently,for6to8minutes,untilevenlybrownedonallsides.

Alternatively,cooktheskewersunderapreheatedbroiler,turningthemfrequently,usingthesametiming.

Marsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmonds

MARSHA’SGRILLEDRABBITSPIEDINIWITHCHICORIES,OLIVES,ANDALMONDS

ThisrecipewashandeddowntousfromMarshaMcBride,chefandproprietressofBerkeley’sCaféRouge.Before“sustainability”becameahouseholdwordandnose-to-taileatingbecamefashionable,Marshawassourcingqualitymeatsfromlocalfarmsforhershopandusingold-worldtechniquestoproduceawiderangeofcharcuterieforherrestaurant.ManyBayAreabutchersandcharcutiers(Taylorincluded)workedaspellatCaféRouge,whereoneofourfavoritemenuofferingsisthissavorygrilledrabbitspiedini(Italianfor“skewers”)thatcallsforboththemeatandtheorgansoftherabbit,servedoverasaladofchicories,olives,andalmonds.SERVES4

SPIEDINI1rabbit,2to3pounds(900gto1.4kg),boned

2rabbitkidneys,eachhalved1rabbitliver,quarteredFineseasalt

1teaspooncorianderseeds,toastedandground

Gratedzestof½orange2tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme1tablespoonchoppedgarlic½cup(120ml)extra-virginoliveoil½cup(120ml)roséwine4thinslicespancetta,homemadeorstore-boughtSALAD

¼cup(60ml)redwinevinegar1shallot,finelymincedFineseasalt

1tablespoonDijonmustard¾cup(180ml)extra-virginoliveoil4cups(80g)stemmedarugula4cups(80g)trimmedescarole

hearts4cups(80g)trimmedfriséeleaves¼cup(40g)choppedpicholineolives½cup(55g)choppedtoastedalmondsFreshlygroundpepper

Cuttherabbitmeatinto1-inch(2.5-cm)cubes.Seasonthemeat,kidneys,andliverwithsaltandthecoriander.Inalargebowl,combinetheorangezest,parsley,thyme,garlic,oliveoil,andwineandmixwell.Addtheseasonedrabbitandmixtocoatevenly.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Tomakethevinaigretteforthesalad,inabowl,maceratetheshallotinthe

vinegarforafewminutes.AddapinchofsaltandtheDijonmustard,thenslowlywhiskintheoliveoiltoemulsify.Setaside.Prepareamedium-hotfireinacharcoalgrill.Removetherabbitfromthe

marinade.Haveready4skewers.Wraptheliverpieceswiththepancetta.Thread1pieceofliverand1kidneyontoeachskeweralongwithone-fourthofthemeat,spacingthepieces½inch(12mm)apart.Grilltheskewers,turningfrequently,for8to10minutes,untilevenlybrownedonallsides.Tomakethesalad,inalargebowl,combinethearugula,escarole,andfrisée,

drizzlewiththevinaigrette,andtosstocoatthegreensevenly.Addtheolives,almonds,andafewgrindsofpepperandtossagain.Dividethesaladamong4plates.Placeawholeskewer,stillwarm,overeach

saladandserve.

RolledandTied

Mostlargecutsofmeatthatwillberoastedorgrilledbenefitfrombeingrolledandtied.Thiscreatesauniformlyshapedroastthatiseasiertocooktoperfection,carve,andserve.Leftaunaturel,unevenlyshapedcutsorcutsmadeupofseveralsmallermuscles,suchasporkshoulderorlambleg,willcookunevenlyandtheirextremitieswilltendtodryout.Onamorepracticallevel,tyingkeepsyourseasoningssecuredwhenthemeatiscooking.Andfromanaestheticpointofview,arolledandtiedroasthasabitmoreprofessional

panache.Attentiontothedetailsofcutting,seasoning,tying,andcookingyourhunkofmeatwillresultinaroastthatisasstunningtobeholdasitisdelicioustoeat.

Roasting,SlowRoasting,andPotRoastingRoasting,simplydefined,meanscookingmeatinhot,dryindirectheat,generallyinanoven,toproduceflavorfulcaramelizationonitssurface.Youcanroastmostmeats,fromachickentoaporktenderlointoawholestandingbeefrib,andwhatyouchoosetoroastwilldictatehowyouroastit.Ingeneral,thestandardroastingprocessforawholebirdoralargecutof

meat(suchasaporkrackorlambleg)istogetitbrown,thenturnitdown.Seartheroastinahotoven,usuallypreheatedto375°Fto425°F(190°Cto220°C),tobrowntheoutside,thencookitatagentlertemperature,from300°Fto350°F(150°Fto180°F),tofinish.Astintatalowertemperatureensurestheroastcooksevenly.Forsmaller,leaner,orthinnercuts,suchastenderloin,thissecondphaseoflow-temperaturecookingisunnecessary.Slowroasting,whichiscookingatalowertemperature,suchas275°Fto

325°F(135°Cto165°C),foralongerperiodoftime,withorwithoutaninitialhotsear,achievesadifferenteffect.Acutwithsomefatandconnectivetissue,suchasalambshoulderorporkBostonbutt,canbeslowroastedforseveralhoursuntilitisthoroughlycookedbutstilljuicy,extremelytender,andnearlyfallingoffthebone.Potroastingusesadeepervesseltoretainmoisture,whichmakesitsimilarto

braising,thoughwithasingle,largecutofmeat.Youcaneithersimmerthemeatinitsownjuicesoraddliquidtothepottofacilitatethecooking.Tougher,moresinewycuts,suchasshankandshoulder,becomemeltinglytenderwhenpotroasted.

ReadyingYourRoastSeasonwellandseasonearly!Somepeoplefearthatsalt,evenarestrainedamount,willdryoutaroast.True,saltdoesdrawmoisturefrommeat,butafteraperiodoftime,thankstoreverseosmosis,thecellsreabsorbmuchofthatmoisturealongwiththesaltandwhateverotheraromaticshavebeenusedtoseason,resultinginmoreflavorfulmeat.Saltalsohelpstosoftentheproteinsinmeat,makingthemeatmoretender.Largecuts,cutswithagoodbitoffat,meatonthebone,anddenseorsinewycutsgreatlybenefitfromseasoningadayortwoahead.Moretendercuts,bonelesscuts,smallerorthinnercuts,orcutswith

verylittlefatcanstillbeseasonedaheadbutneedtositforonlyafewhours.Thesaltinamarinadeordryrubfacilitatesthetransferoftheflavorstotheinteriorofthemeat.Asmearofrenderedfatoroliveoilwillhelpseasoningadhereandprovidealittleprotectivecoatingandbrowningammunitionforleanercuts.

AllTiedUpNoteveryroastneedstying.Manyarenaturallysuitedtoseasoningandpoppinginanoven,suchasporkloinandotherbone-incutsthathavetheirownbuilt-instructuralsupports.Butroaststhathavebeenbutterfliedandseasoned,arestuffed,orhaveanirregularshaperequireabitofreassemblyandsecuringwithbutcher’stwine.Thisensuresthatyourstuffingdoesn’ttumbleoutduringcookingandgivestheroastamoresymmetricalshapesoitcooksmoreevenly.

HowtoTieaRoastStartwithagoodspoolof100percentcottonbutcher’stwinewithaminimumtwelve-plythickness(althoughsixteenplyisbetterifyoucanfindit).Thickertwineislesslikelytosnapwhenyoupullittaut.Whenyouareworkingwithtwine,youwillwanttosecureittoyourworksurfacetoavoidhavingitrollover,off,andontothefloorwhileyouareinthemiddleofyourcoupdegracebutcher’sknot.Placetheballorconeoftwineeitheronaheavy-bottomedbaseequippedwithadowelorinsideofasmall,heavysaucepan.Layyourseasonedorstuffedroastontheworksurface.Ifyouaretyinga

roastwithanirregularshape,tuckinanyprotrudingbitsandpatintoamoreevenshape.Haveyourtwinenearathand.Leavingoneendattachedtothespool,slidethetwineunderneaththeroast.

Foraribroast,plantoknotthetwinebetweenthefirstandsecondrib;forabonelessroast,youwillmakeyourfirstknot2inches(5cm)orsoinfromtheend.Tomakethefirstbutcher’sknot(alsoknownasaslipknot),bringtheloose

endofthetwineovertopoftheroast.Grabtheendofthetwinethatisstillattachedtothespoolwiththeringandpinkyfingersofyourlefthand(thestringwilldrapeacrossyourindexandmiddlefingers),thendrapethelooseendoftwineovertheindexandmiddlefingersofyourlefthand(seephoto1ofHowtoTieaRoast).Grabthelooseendoftwinewithyourrighthand.Then,rotateyourlefthand

sothatyourpalmisnowfacingdown(seephoto2).Sinceyouarestillholdingthelooseendoftwinewithyourrighthand,thisrotatingmotionshouldforma

looponthelooseendoftwine(nottheoneattachedtothespool).Slipthelooseendoftwine(whichisinyourrighthand)underandthroughthisloop(seephoto3),thenmoveyourlefthandoutofthewaysoyoucantightentheknot(seephoto4).Holdtheloosepieceoftwinesteadyinyourrighthand,thentugtheendstillattachedtothespooltightlywithyourlefthand,untiltheknotisastightaspossible(seephoto5).Makeasecond,regularknotontopofthefirstonetoensurethatthefirstonedoesn’tloosen(seephoto6),thencutthetwinedirectlyabovethesecondknot(seephoto7).Repeatuntiltheroastissnuglytied.Foraribroast,tiethetwineinbetween

eachrib.Forabonelessroast,repeattheknotatregular2-inch(5cm)intervals(seephoto8).

HOWTOTIEAROAST

Racks,Pans,andPotsAsolidroastingpanisagoodinvestment.Heavierpans,preferablymadefromstainlesssteelorenameledcast-iron,tendtotransferheatmoreefficiently.Chooseapanthatisabitlargerthantheroastitself.Forsmaller,leanerroasts,suchasaporktenderloinorrackoflamb,thepandoesnotneedtobeverydeep.Foralargeorfattycut,suchasaporkmiddle,youwillwantadeeperpantocollectthedrippings.Almosteveryroastingrecipeyoureaddirectsyoutooutfitthepanwitharack

andplacetheroastontherack.Arackpreventstheroastfromstickingtothepan,elevatestheroastabovethepandrippings,andincreasesairflowformoreevenroasting.Ideally,thedimensionsoftherackalmostmatchthoseofthepan,mostlyforyourownsafety.Iftherackissmallerthanthepan,itcanslidewhen

youremovethepanfromtheoven,resultinginhot,sloshingfatthatcancauseapainfulburn.Ifyoudonothaveametalrack,youcanfashionarackoutofvegetables,suchasleeksorcarrots,tosupporttheroastduringcooking.Thisvegetablerackcanbeeatenalongsidetheroastorcanbemilledalongwiththedrippingsforarobustsauce.Potroastsneedagoodheavypan,aswell.Adeep,enameledcast-ironbraiser

orDutchoventransfersheatevenly.Chooseapotthatisabitlargerthanyourroast.Iftheroastistoosnuginitspot,itwillsteamandstewratherthanslowroasttoabeautifulgoldenbrown.

TimeandTemperatureAllmeat,roastsespecially,shouldbeallowedtotemper,orsitatroomtemperature,foraspellbeforecooking.Nevertransferaroastdirectlyfromthefridgetotheovenoryouwillendupwithanovercookedexteriorandanundercookedinterior.Temperingmeatreducesthetotalcookingtimeandensuresthemeatwillcookmoreevenly.Thebiggeranddensertheroastorcut,thelongeryouwillwanttoletittemper.Agamehenmayonlyneedtotemperforahalfhour,butabone-inporkshoulderroastshouldsitforacoupleofhours.

CALIBRATEYOURMEATTHERMOMETER

Eventhebestmeatthermometerscangetdropped,bangedaboutinakitchendrawer,orlefttooverheatonthestovetop.Itisalwaysagoodideatochecktomakesurethatyourmeatthermometerisproperlycalibrated,orreadingtemperaturesaccurately.Bringapotofwatertoaboilonthestovetop.Fillaglasswithicecubesandaddcoldwaterjusttocoverthecubes.Placetheprobeendofthethermometerintothepotofboilingwater.Itshouldread212°F(100°C).Ifnot,makeaminuteadjustmentwithneedle-nosepliers,carefullyturningthenutonthebacksideofthethermometer,locatedwherethefacemeetstheprobe.Thenplungetheprobeintotheicewater.Ifitdoesnotregister32°F(0°C),make

anothersmalladjustmentuntilitreadscorrectly.Wedon’trecommendusingdigitalinstant-read

thermometers.Theyaredifficulttocalibrate,thoughsomedohavea“reset”button.

Wearefrequentlyasked,howlongwillittaketocookthisroast?Thetruthfulansweristheanswerthatnooneeverwantstohear:Wereallydon’tknow.Wecanonlyguess.Whendidyouremovetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandwhattemperatureisthemeatwhenyouputitintheoven?Isyourovenperfectlycalibratedordoesitrunhotorcool?Doyouhaveastillovenoraconvectionoven?Isyourovengasorelectric?Willyoubeopeningtheovendooreveryfewminutesorareyoumoreofaset-it-and-forget-itkindofcook?Doyoulikealittlepinkinyourmeatorareyouafanofcrispyendbits?Howyourespondtoallofthesequestionsaffecttheequation.Alongwithtempering,twothingswillhelptoensureaperfectpieceofcooked

meatalmosteverytime.Thefirstissimplebutnonnegotiable.Buyameatthermometer,learntouseit,takecareofit,andkeepitcalibratedandyouwillhavenounpleasantsurprises—norawchickenbreastsordepressinglyoverdonelegsoflamb.Meatiscostly.Don’tleaveittochance.Wehavebeencookingmeatprofessionallyfornearlytwentyyears,andwestilluseameatthermometereveryday.Thesecondwaytoimproveyourmeatcookingskillsistopractice.Noteveryoneisbornwithrazor-sharpculinaryinstincts.Themoreyoupracticeroasting(andusingyourmeatthermometer),themoreattunedyouwillbetothelook,smell,andfeelofaperfectlycookedroast.

GrillingaRoastWhenitistoohottoturnontheoven,whenthegreatoutdoorsbeckons,orwhentherearejusttoomanycooksinthekitchen,takeyourroastoutsideandcookitonthegrill.Aroastcookedonthegrillwilltakeabitlonger,buttheexposuretotheirresistibleperfumeofwoodsmokemakesthetimespentworthwhile.

Usethesameprinciplesyouwouldusetocookyourroastinaconventionaloven.Unlikebarbecuing,whichcallsforcookingataverylowtemperature(about180°F/85°C)andwithalargeamountofsmoketoaninternaltemperaturewaybeyondwell-done,agrilledroastshouldbesearedoverfairlyhotcoalsthenfinishedslowly,withonlyasmallamountofsmoke,untilitreachesitstargetinternaltemperature.Thisresultsinaroastwithabalanced,meatyflavorandonlyahintofsmoke.Rakethehotcoalsintoapileslightlylargerthanthediameterofyourroastto

createahotspotforsearing.Placeyourseasonedandtemperedroastdirectlyonthegrillgrate.Placetheroastoverthehotspotandbrownit,turningitfrequently,untilitisevenlycoloredonallsides.Oncethemeatisevenlyanddeeplybrowned,moveitoffofthedirectheatandclosethegrilllid.Ifyoudon’thavealidforyourgrill,aloosefoiltentorlargebowlplacedovertheroastwilldo.Coveringtheroastexposesallsidesoftheroasttothetrappedheatofthecoalssothatitcooksslowlyandevenly,justasitwouldinanoven.Turntheroasteverynowandagainuntilitreachesthedesiredinternaltemperature.

GiveItaRestAllroasts,greatandsmall,benefitfromarestingperiodafterroastingandbeforecarving.Therareorless-cookedcenterwillhaveafewmomentstocatchupthankstothehelpofcarry-overcooking.Theouterlayerofmeathastheopportunitytoreabsorbsomeofthemeatyjuices.Theendresultisaroastthatismoreevenlycooked,tender,andjuicier.

Pancetta-WrappedPorkTenderloin

PANCETTA-WRAPPEDPORKTENDERLOIN

Delicateporktenderloinistheextra-leanmeatadjacenttotheloin.Thistasty,supplelittlemusclehasatendencytodryoutquicklyduringcookingandcangofromperfectlypinktodryandmealythesecondyouturnyourbackonthesautépan.Oursolutionistoprovidethetenderloinwithaprotectivelayerofmuch-neededfatintheformofrich,saltypancetta.Asthetenderloinroasts,thepancettacrisps,bastingtheleanmusclewithitsfatsothatitremainsmoistandinfusingitwithitsrobustflavor.Thetenderloinispicturedherewithroastedradicchio,anexcellentaccompaniment.SERVES2OR3

1trimmedporktenderloin,about1pound(450g)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper¼cup(55g)Dijonmustard2tablespoonswhitewine3to4tablespoons(about10g)finelychoppedfreshrosemaryAbout2ounces(55g)thinlyslicedpancetta,homemadeorstore-bought

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Seasonthetenderloinonallsideswithsaltandpepper.Inasmallbowl,stir

togetherthemustardandwine.Usingapastrybrushoryourhands,coverthetenderloinliberallywiththemix.Sprinkletherosemaryevenlyovertheroast.Laya10-inch(25cm)squaresheetofwaxedpaperorparchmentpaperona

worksurface.Neatlycoverthepaperwiththepancettaslices,overlappingthembyabout½inch(12mm).Laythetenderloin1inch(2.5cm)infromtheedgeofthesheetclosesttoyou,placingitparalleltotheedge.Foldthebottom1inch(2.5cm)overthetenderloin,andthenrollthepaperaroundthetenderloin.Thepancettashouldbetightlywrappedaroundthetenderloin.Removethepaper.Outfitabakingsheetoraroastingpanwitharack,andplacetheroastonthe

rack.Roastforabout20minutes,untilthepancettaisgoldenandcrispanda

meatthermometerinsertedintothecenterofthethickestpartoftheroastregisters140°F(60°C).Removefromtheovenandletrestfor5to10minutes.Sliceintorounds1

inch(2.5cm)thick.

PorkCountryRibwithSherry,Garlic,Thyme,andPimentón

PORKCOUNTRYRIBWITHSHERRY,GARLIC,THYME,ANDPIMENTÓN

PimentónisSpanishforpaprika,theintenselyredspicemadefromgrounddriedpeppers.TheexceptionalpimentóndelaVera,fromtheLaVeravalleyintheExtremaduraregionofwesternSpain,ismadebyhangingthelocalsweetandspicyredpeppersfromtheraftersoflargesmokehouses,wheretheygentlydryoverfiresofholmoak.Theresultinggroundpimentónisclassifiedeitherasdulce(sweet),agridulce(medium-hot),orpicante(hot).Allthreemakeaperfectseasoningforpork.Usewhicheverlevelofheatyoufindmostsatisfying.Thecountryribworksparticularlywellinthispreparationbecauseitsnaturalpocketdirectlybehinditsribsallowsyoutoseasonthemeatwiththepimentónfromwithin.SERVES4

1porkcountryribroast,about2½pounds(1kg)2tablespoonsdrysherrySeasalt

3tablespoonspimentóndelaVera8clovesgarlic,slicedpaper-thin2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme

Butterflythecountryribbymakingacutdirectlybehindtheribsfromthetoptothebottom.Usingapastrybrushorthetipsofyourfingers,brushtheroastinsideandoutwiththesherry,thensprinklesaltovertheentiretyoftheroast.Laytheroastfatsidedownonthecuttingboardandopenitlikeabook.Coattheinsideoftheroastwiththepimentón,seasoningfromonhighsothatitdispersesmoreevenly.Next,shinglethegarlicslicesontheinsideoftheroastoppositetheribs,followedbyashowerofthethyme.Tietheroastwithbutcher’stwine,makingknotsinbetweeneachribaswell

asoneacrosstheloin(seeHowtoTieaRoast).Wraptheroasttightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

Removetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandallowittotemperforabout1hour.Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Placetheroastontherack,thenplaceintheovenfor30to40minutes,until

nicelybrowned.Turndowntheheatto300°F(150°C)androastuntilathermometerinsertedintothethickestpartoftheroastawayfromboneregisters140°F(60°C).Removefromtheovenandletrestfor10to15minutes.Cutawaythetwine

andslicetheroastbetweeneachrib.

RabbitPorchetta

RABBITPORCHETTA

Porchettaisusuallymadefromawholehogorwholeporkmiddle,boned,seasonedgenerouslywithgarlic,fennel,andherbs,thenrolled,tied,androasted.Itisathingofbeauty,agreatbigthing,bestcookedforabig,hungrycrowd.Thisminiatureversion,madewithrabbit,followsthetraditionalporchettaprinciplesofrollingaroastwithspices,garlic,citrus,andherbs.Whilestillloadedwithporchettaflavor,itisscaledforeverydaydiningandcanbepreparedinafractionofthetime.SERVES6

1wholerabbit,4to6pounds(1.8to2.7kg)4clovesgarlic,poundedtoapasteinamortarGratedzestof2lemonsSeasaltandfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoonfennelpollen½cup(30g)choppedmixedfreshherbs(suchasrosemary,oregano,flat-leafparsley,andsage)2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Completelydebonetherabbit,followingtheinstructionsforWholeBonedRabbit.Laythebonelessrabbitoutonaworksurfaceandrubtheinsidewiththegarlicandlemonzest.Seasontherabbitinsideandoutsidewithsalt,pepper,andthefennelpollen,thensprinkletheherbsovertheinside.Workinglengthwise,rolluptherabbittightly,thentiewithbutcher’stwineat3-inch(7.5-cm)intervals(seeHowtoTieaRoast).Wraptherabbittightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1dayorforupto3days.Removetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandallowittotemperfor1hour.

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Placetherabbitontherackandrubonallsideswiththeoliveoil.Roastfor

about45minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothethickestpartoftherabbitregisters140°F(60°C).Removefromtheovenandletrestfor10minutes.Sliceintorounds½inch

(12mm)thickandarrangeonaplatter.Strainthepanjuicesandspoonovertheslicedmeat.

BrasatoalMidolo

BRASATOALMIDOLO

InthisopulentTuscanversionofbeefpotroast,lean,sinewybeefshankisenrichedwithitsownbonemarrow,thensimmeredindelicatelysweet,amber-coloredvinsanto.Astheroastsimmers,thebuttery,beefymarrowoozesthroughout,flavoringboththemeatandthebrothladenwithcaramelizedshallots—anidealbraiseforachillywinterevening!Slicethemeat,arrangetheslicesovermashedrootvegetablesorpolenta,andtopwiththeshallotsandmarrow-enrichedsauce.Forease,askyourbutchertobonetheshankandsplittheboneinhalflengthwise.SERVES6

1wholebeefshank,about8pounds(3.6kg)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper½cup(15g)freshrosemaryneedlesSeasaltandfreshlygroundpepper2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2pounds(900g)shallotsorcipollinionions,peeledbutleftwhole6cups(1.4L)meatbroth,anykind(seeBasicRichBroth)1(500-ml)bottlevinsanto

Askyourbutchertobonetheshank,cuttingalongthenaturalseambetweenthetwomainmusclesoftheshanktoyieldasinglepieceofmeat.Thenaskthatheorshesplittheboneinhalflengthwisetoexposethemarrow.Seasonthemeatliberallyonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Laythebeef,

exteriorsidedown,onaworksurface.Sprinkletherosemaryevenlyovertheinsideoftheshank.Usingabutterknife,prythemarrowfromtheshankbone(savetheboneforyournextbatchofbroth)andarrangeitlengthwisealongthecenteroftheroast.Foldthesidesoftheroastaroundthemarrowtore-createtheoriginalshapeoftheshankandsecurewithseveralloopsofbutcher’stwine(seeHowtoTieaRoast).Wraptheroastinplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernighttoallowtheseasoningstopenetrate.Removetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandallowittotemperfor1hour.

Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).

Inaheavypotorbraiser,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheshankroastandbrownwellonallsides.Removetheroasttoaplatterandsetaside.Addtheshallotstothepotandsautéforabout5minutes,untiltheyaregolden.Nestletheshankintheshallotsandaddthebrothandwine.Thewineandshallotsshouldreachaboutthree-fourthsupthewayupthesideoftheroast.Bringtheliquidtoasimmer.Transferthepottotheovenandcookthemeatslowly,turningitoccasionally,for5to6hours,untilitisfork-tenderandtheliquidisfairlyreduced.Youcanservethemeatimmediately,butlikemostpotroasts,thisroasttastes

bestifitisallowedtorestovernightinitsbraisingliquor.Oncethepothascooledtoroomtemperature,coverandrefrigerate.Thefollowingday,transferthecoldroasttoacuttingboard.Ifthefatcongealedonthesurfaceofthebraisingliquidisexcessive,removeit.Cuttheroastintoslices1¼inches(3cm)thickandreturntheslicestothepot.Heatthepotgentlyonthestovetoporintheoven,thentastetheliquidforseasoning.Servethehotslicestoppedwiththemarrow-richsauceandshallots.

TheCuban

THECUBAN

Whole,boneless,skin-onporkmiddleisacutwegenerallyreserveforporchetta,thetraditionalItalianporkroastrubbedwithgarlic,showeredwithfennelandherbs,thenrolled,tied,androasteduntilitsskinturnsmahoganyandsocrunchyitbreaksoffintoterrificallygreasy,impossible-to-resistshards.TheCubanisanew-worldapproachtoanold-worldclassic:samedeliciousporkmiddle,samebeautifulbrownandcrispycracklingbutseasonedwithavibrantmixtureofcumin,orange,chile,andherbs.SERVES10TO12

½skin-onporkmiddle,10to12pounds(4.5to5.5kg)¾cup(170g)garlicpoundedtoafinepasteinamortarGratedzestof1orangeFineseasalt

2tablespoonspeppercorns,toastedandground

5allspiceberries,toastedandground¼cup(25g)cuminseeds,toastedandground½cup(55g)medium-hot(agridulce)

pimentóndelaVera¼cup(15g)finelychoppedfreshoregano¼cup(15g)finelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil¼cup(75g)coarseseasalt

BonetheporkmiddlefollowingtheinstructionsforWholeBonelessMiddle.Laythemiddleonacuttingboardandrubthegarlicintothemeat,makingsuretogetintothegrooveswheretheribswereremovedandintothepocketwheretheshoulderbladewasremoved.Spreadtheorangezestoverthemeat,thenliberallyseasonwithfineseasaltfollowedbythepepper,allspice,cumin,pimentón,oregano,andparsley.Althoughyoucantietheroastalone,itiseasiertotieitifyoucanenlistan

extrasetofhands.Rollthelointowardthebottomofthebelly,pressingittightly

asyougo.Tietheroastperpendiculartothelightscoremarks,usingdoublelengthsoftwineat2-inch(5cm)intervals(seeHowtoTieaRoast).Refrigeratetheroastuncoveredorlooselycoveredwithateatowelforatleast1dayorforupto3daystoallowtheflavorsoftheseasoningstopenetratethemeat.Donotwrapinplasticwrap,asmoisturetrappedbetweentheplasticandtheskincanpreventtheskinfromcrispingintheoven.Removetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandallowittotemperfor1to2hours.

Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Placetheroastontherack.Rubitonallsideswiththeoliveoil,thensprinkle

itevenlywiththecoarsesalt.Transfertotheovenandroastfor30to40minutes,untiltheskinisgoldenbrownandcrispy.Turndowntheoventemperatureto300°F(150°C)andcontinuetocookuntilathermometerinsertedintothethickestpartoftheloinregisters140°F(60°C).Thiscantakefrom2½to4hours,dependingonthethicknessoftheroast.Removefromtheovenandletrestforatleast30minutesbeforecarving.Cut

intoslicestoserve,usingaserratedknifetocutthroughthecrunchyexterioroftheskin.

Stuffed

Ifyouwanttoaddalittleohlàlàtoyourdinnertable,considerthepossibilityofstuffingyourmaincourse.Everybodylikestodiscovertheprizeinside,especiallywhenthatprizeisahotcaramelizedfigorasatisfyingmouthfulofgarlickygreens.Stuffingshavetheaddedbenefitofkeepingroastsmoist,flavorful,andjuicyduringcooking.

WhattoStuffThetraditionalThanksgivingturkeyisthebest-knownstuffedfowl,butnumerousotherbirds,fromaplumpquailtoaflavorfulguineahen,arejustwaitingtobestuffed.Awholebirdisideallybuiltforstuffing:thebreastcooksmuchfasterthanthelegs,sostuffingthecavityhelpstokeepthebreastmoistwhilethelegsfinishcooking.Stuffedbonelessorpartiallybonelessbirdsmakeanelegantpresentationatthetable.Wholebeastssuchasrabbits,sheep,andhogsarealsogoodcandidatesfor

stuffing.Similartowholebirds,theirlegsandshoulderscookatadifferentratefromtheirmiddles.Stuffingtheirabdominalcavityhelpstokeeptheirdelicate

loinsjuicywhiletheirlegsandshouldersfinishroasting.Intruth,youcanstuffalmostanycut,justforthefunofit.Ifitdoesnothavea

naturallyoccurringcavitytostuff,youcaneitherbutterflyitorcutasmallpouchintoitscenter.

StuffingsBreadstuffings,thekindthataretrottedouteachholidayseason,invariablyfindthemselvesattheepicenterofbothhappymemoriesandfamilyfeuds.Wedarenotintrudewithmuchadviceornovelconcepts.Fromcornbreadtochallah,breadstuffingsaregoodforkeepingthebirdmoistandsoppingupthosedeliciousroastingjuices.Theycanbekeptrelativelystraightforward,seasonedwithleeks,celery,andherbs,ortartedupwitheverythingfromsausageandmushroomstoapplesandchestnuts.

Grains,suchasrice,farro,wheatberries,orcouscous,alsomakegreatstuffingsforpoultry.Theyservemuchthesamepurposeasabreadstuffing,soakinguptheexcessjuiceandfatfromthebirdasitroastswhilekeepingthebirditselfmoist.

Vegetables,suchascookedgreens,leeks,orwildmushrooms,makeattractiveandflavorfulstuffings.Inmostcases,youwillwanttocookthevegetablesfullypriortostuffing,astheywillnotcooksufficientlyinsideofaroast.Besuretocarvetheroasttorevealamosaicofstuffingandmeatineachslice.

Fruits,chutneys,andmostardeaddflavorandtexturealongwithmoisturetoporkroasts.Roastedapplesandquince,brandiedprunes,chutneys,andmostardecanallbeusedtostuffaporkloin,countryribroast,orshoulder.

Forcemeatsandsausagemakeespeciallygoodstuffingsforleanercutsandbeasts,suchasporkloin,crownroast,rabbit,andsmallerpoultry.Theyprovidenotjustmoisturebutagoodbitofaddedfat.Theycanalsobeaddedtobreadorgrainstuffings.Alwaysbesuretotaketheinternaltemperatureofasausagestuffing.Itmustbecookedtoatleast140°F(60°C)tobesafelyeaten,regardlessofthetemperatureofthemeat.

THEBEASTWITHIN

Stuffingonebirdorbeastinsideofanotherisnothingnew.TheancientRomansdidit,andsodidthemedieval

French.TheBritishfellinlineandsomeonecarriedtheconcepttotheAmericas.WhetheritistheclassicCajunturduckenyoucraveorsomeothermodernmythicalmegabeast,weimploreyoutothinkthisonethroughbeforeyoubegin.Althoughwearecertainlynotpuristsandwedoadoreameatyproject,thebeastwithinthebeastseemslikeabust.Alargepartofthejoyofaroast,stuffedorotherwise,isthejuxtapositionofcrispy,brownexteriorandmoist,juicyinterior.Ifachickenandaduckarestuffedintoaturkey,theyareessentiallysteamedwhiletheturkeyroasts,whichdoeskeepthewholeprojectmoistbutseverelydiminishestheratioofcrispyskintomoistmeat.Thatisatrade-offwecannotendorse.

HowtoTrussaBirdforRoasting

Trussingpoultryyieldsamoreconsistentandcompactshape,whichhelpsthebirdtocookmoreevenlyandpreventsthepiecesthatprotrudefromthebody,suchasthelegsandwings,fromdryingoutduringroasting.

1.Seasonthebirdthoroughly,insideandout,thenposition,breastsideup,onaworksurface.Foldthewingtipsbehindthebird’sback.

2.Cutapieceofbutcher’stwineatleast4feet(1.2m)long.Placethemiddleofthetwinebehindtheneckofthebird,thencircleeachendofthetwineonefullrotationaroundthewingjointoneitherside.Pulleachendofthetwinetightlyinthedirectionofthelegs,whichwillpressthebottomofthewingsdirectlyagainstthebodyofthebird.

3.Placethetwineinthegroovebetweenthelegandthebody,thencrossthetwinedirectlyunderneaththebottomofthebreastbone,pullingittightasyouwouldashoelace.

4.Crossthelegsofthebirdandbringtheendsofthetwinearoundthebottomofeachlegtotiethelegstogether.Circlethelegsoncewiththetwine,thenreinforcethistiewithaknot.

5.Clipanyextratwineaway,andvoilà!Youhaveatrussedoven-readybird.

Fig-and-SausageStuffedQuail

FIG-AND-SAUSAGESTUFFEDQUAIL

Weliketogetourfilloffreshfigsduringtheirbriefseasoninlatesummer.Roastedfigshaveanespeciallyrich,honeyedflavorthatisagoodmatchforbothpoultryandpork.Thisstuffedquailmanagestomarryallthree:awholeripefigisencasedinanegg-shapedballofporksausage,whichisthenstuffedintothecavityofabrinedquail.Asthequailroasts,thesausagehelpstokeepthelittlebirdmoistandthehotfigexudesitssweetjuicesintothemeat.SERVES4

8cups(2L)boilingwater4.6ounces(130g)fineseasalt3.8ounces(108g)sugar4semiboneless(glove-boned)quail

12ounces(340g)LemonandHerbPorkSausage

4small-to-mediumfigs1tablespoonrenderedduckfatorunsaltedbutter,melted

Tomakethebrine,pourtheboilingwaterintoalargeheatproofcontainerorbowl.(Besuretomeasurethewaterafterithascometoaboil,assomewillevaporateasitheatsandmeasuringbeforehandwillresultinoverlysaltybrine).Addthesaltandsugarandstirtodissolve.Letcoolforseveralminutesthenrefrigeratethebrineuntilcold.Whenthebrinehascooledto50°F(10°C),removefromtherefrigeratorand

addthequail.Makesuretheyarefullysubmerged,toppingthemwithaplateifnecessary.Coverthecontainer,returnittotherefrigerator,andleavethebirdstobrinefor3hours.Meanwhile,assemblethefig-stuffedsausageballs.Dividethesausageinto

four3-ounce(85g)portions.Shapeeachportionintoapattyabout½inch(12mm)thick.Trimthestemoffofeachfig.Placeafig,stemmedsidedown,directlyonthecenterofasausagepatty.Bringthesausageuparoundthefig,pressingitagainstthefigandkeepingthestemmedsideinthecenter.Moldthe

sausagearoundthefigintoarougheggshape,withanarrowertopandawiderbase.Repeatwiththeremainingfigsandsausagepatties.Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Removethequailfromthebrine,drainingthemwellandthenpattingthem

dry.Gentlypryapartthelegsofaquailandstuffasausageball,narrowendfirst,intothecavity.Oncetheballissnuglyinsidethequail,crossthebird’slegsandtiethemtogetherwitha6-inch(15cm)lengthofbutcher’stwine.Repeatwiththeremainingballsandquail.Brushthequailonallsideswiththeduckfatandplacethem,breastsideup,

ontherack,spacingthematleast2inches(5cm)apart.Placethepanintheovenandroastfor22to24minutes,untilathermometerinserteddirectlyintothemiddleofthestuffingregisters140°F(60°C).Removethequailfromtheovenandletrestfor5minutes,thensnipthetwine

andserve.

PorkShoulderPotRoastStuffedwithGarlic,Greens,andWalnuts

PORKSHOULDERPOTROASTSTUFFEDWITHGARLIC,GREENS,ANDWALNUTS

Chock-fullofgreens,thissimpleporkshoulderpotroast,madewithBostonbutt,makesanourishingandcomfortingsupper.Abundant,leafySwisschardtendstobeavailableyear-roundandisthestandardforthisstuffing,butitisequallygoodmadewithspinach,mustard,kale,orotherseasonalgreens.SERVES8TO10

1wholeboneless,skinlessporkBostonbutt,about8pounds(3.6kg)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper3bunchesSwisschardorotherleafygreens,stemmed10clovesgarlic,slicedpaper-thin¾cup(85g)choppedtoastedwalnuts1½cups(360ml)pork,chicken,orduckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)1½cups(360ml)cupsdryredwine

Onedayinadvanceofcooking,seasonandreadytheroastforstuffing.First,makethepocketforthestuffingbymakingahorizontalcutthroughthemiddleoftheroast,followingtheseamwherethebonewasremoved.Leaveoneofthefouredgescompletelyintact.Opentheroastlikeabook.Seasonliberallyonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Closethebook,wraptightlywithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateovernight.Removetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandallowittotemperfor2hours.

Preheattheovento350°F(180°C).Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.Addthechardleavesand

blanchforabout2minutes.Drainandletcool,thensqueezeoutanyexcesswater.Chopthechardcoarsely.Opentheporkshoulderlikeabook,withtheintactedgeonyourleft.Arrange

thechardinthecenteroftheroastinaneatlayer,leavinga1-inch(2.5cm)

borderuncoveredsurroundingit.Distributethegarlicevenlyoverthechard,followedbythewalnuts.Foldthetoppartoftheroastoverthestuffingandtietightlywithbutcher’stwineinthreeplaces,spacingtheloopsevenlyandreinforcingthebookshape.Outfitalargebraiserwitharack.Placetheporkshoulder,fattysidefacingup,

ontherack.(Ifyoudon’thavearackthatfitsyourpot,halveafewleekslengthwise,placethemonthebottomofthepot,andputtheroastontheleeks;theywillsupporttheroastnicelyduringcooking.)Transferthepottotheovenandroastforabout45minutes.Removethepotfromtheovenandcarefullypourofftherenderedfat.Reservethesepandrippingsforanotheruse.Addthebrothandwinetothepotandreturnittotheoven.Turndowntheoventemperatureto300°F(150°C)andcontinuetocook,bastingtheroastevery30minutes,forabout2½hours.Theroastisreadywhenitisarichgoldenbrown,fork-tender,andabitwobbly.Transfertheroasttoacuttingboardandletitrestfor20minutes.Snipthe

twineandcuttheroastintothickslices.Batheeachservingwithaspoonfulofthecookingjuices.

WildMushroom–StuffedPorkRibRoast

WILDMUSHROOM–STUFFEDPORKRIBROAST

Versatilemushroomduxellesmakesanimpressiveandwonderfullyearthystuffingforpork,elevatinganeverydayribroasttospecial-occasionstatus.Theduxellesflavorstheporkandprovidesmoisturefortheleanmusclemeatasitroasts,keepingitjuicyanddelicious.Theadditionofwobblygeléetotheduxellesgivesthestuffingstructure,bindingitsothatwhenitcomestimetocarveandserve,eachslicehasafetchingeyeofwildmushroom.SERVES4TO6

5-ribporkloinrackwithchineboneremoved,preferablyfromtheshoulderendFineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper1½cups(244g)WildMushroomDuxelles

Onedayahead,butterfly,season,andstufftheroast.First,standtherackonacuttingboardsothattheribspointupwardandtowardtheright(towardtheleftifyouareasouthpaw).Makeanincisionalongthetopoftheroastdirectlybehindtheribs,pressingintothebone.Griptheloosestripofmeatthatresultsfromthiscutandpeelthemeatawayfromtheboneasyoucarveagainsttheribs,toopentheroastlikeabook.Seasontheroastliberallyonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Stufftheduxelles

intothepocket,leavinga1-inch(2.5cm)borderuncoveredonallsides.Gentlyclosetheroastbackupintoitsoriginalshape,takingcarenottodisplacethemushrooms.Totietheroast,layitfatsidedownonyourboardandrunalengthoftwineunderneathitparalleltotheribs.Tieabutcher’sknot(seeHowtoTieaRoast)betweenthefirsttworibsoftherack.Repeatthisknotbetweeneachribtofinishtrussing,thenwraptheroastinplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.Removetheroastfromtherefrigeratorandtemperitforabout30minutes.

Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Placetheroast,fatsideup,ontherack.Placethepanintheovenandroastfor

30to40minutes,untilthefathascaramelizedandturnedadeepgoldenbrown.

Turndowntheoventemperatureto300°F(150°C)andcontinuetocookforanother30to40minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothethickestpartoftheloinregisters140°F(60°C).Removetheroastfromtheovenandletrestfor20minutes.Snipthetwine

andcutbetweentheribstoserve.

DuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHazelnuts

DUCKSTUFFEDWITHFARRO,FIGS,ANDHAZELNUTS

Golden,crispyroastduckisafestivecenterpieceforacelebratorymeal,especiallywhenstuffedwithsage-scentedsausage,redwine–soakedfigs,toastedhazelnuts,andfarro.Farro,anancientvarietalofwheatpopularincentralItaly,isafavoriteintheFattedCalfkitchen,whereweaddittoheartysoupsandrusticsalads.Whencooked,ithasafirmbutchewytexturethatalsomakesitperfectforuseinstuffings.Althoughwelikethetoasty,nuttyflavoroffarroincombinationwithduck,thisstuffingworksequallywellwithquail,gamehens,orotherbirds.SERVES6

1½cups(360ml)dryredwine2tablespoonssugar1driedbayleaf1sprigthyme,plus2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme½teaspoonpeppercorns1allspiceberryFineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper12driedfigs

1wholeduck,5to7pounds(2.3to3.2kg)1pound(450g)BreakfastSausage

2cups(330g)cookedfarroorwildrice¾cup(100g)hazelnuts,toasted,skinned,andcoarselychopped¼cup(15g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Onedayinadvance,preparethefigs.Inasmallsaucepan,stirtogethertheredwine,sugar,bayleaf,thymesprig,peppercorns,allspice,andapinchofsalt.Bringtoasimmeroverhighheattodissolvethesugarandallowtheflavorofthespicestobloom.Removefromtheheatandpouroverthefigs.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Bonetheduck,followingtheinstructionsforaWholeBonedBird,going

aroundthelegsandwingsandmakingsureyoudonotmakeanyholesintheskin.Workcarefullyaroundthebreastbone,leavingthetendersattachedtothe

breast.Trimanyglandsorbloodvesselsoffofthemeatonceitiscompletelyoffthebone.Seasontheduckinsideandoutwithsaltandpepper.Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Tomakethestuffing,firstdrainthefigs.Cutoffthestemofeachfig,then

quarterthefigslengthwise.Inabowl,combinethesausage,farro,figs,hazelnuts,choppedthyme,andparsley.Patthestuffingintoacylinderabout3inches(7.5cm)indiameterand3inches(7.5cm)shorterthantheduck.Laythestuffingdirectlyonthemiddleoftheduckandrollthemeattightlyaroundthestuffing.Lightlyscoretheskininacrosshatchpatterntofacilitatethereleaseoffatduringcooking.Trusstheducktightly(seeHowtoTieaRoast).Placetheduckontherackandplacethepanintheoven.Roasttheduck,

bastingitafterthefirst20minuteswiththedrippingsthathaveaccumulatedinthepan,forabout1houroruntilathermometerinsertedintothemiddleofthestuffingregisters140°F(60°C).Iftheskinstartstogetalittletoobrown,youcanlowertheoventemperatureto325°F(165°C)sotheduckfinishesmoreslowly.Removetheduckfromtheovenandletrestfor10minutes.Carveintoslices1

inch(2.5cm)thicktoserve.

M

5

SAUSAGE,SALAMI&THEIRCOUSINS

akesausage.Makesausagetoreclaimthesweetmemoriesofsupperatnonna’s,smokybackyardbarbecues,andsunnybaseballgames.MakesausagetoexperienceonceagaintheunabashedjoyoftastingaplumpOktoberfestwurst.Makesausagetoembarkonthequesttocapturetheessenceofanalluringlemongrassscentwaftingintheairofacrowdednightmarket.Grind,stuff,andlinksausagewithfriendsandwithfamilytodiscoverwhereyourfoodcomesfromandtoappreciatethelaborthatbringsittoyourtable.Makesausageandcreatesomethingfrompracticallynothingthewayourancestorshavedoneforthousandsofyears.Sausagemakingisacraftbornofnecessity,awaytomakethemostoftheodd

bits,scrapsofmeat,blood,fat,andentrails.Atthemostbasiclevel,sausageisjustseasonedgroundmeat.Theingredientsandseasoningsyouuseandthewaythemeatispreparedarewhatmakeeachsausageunique.Makingyourownsausageisarewardingprojectthatneednotbecomplicated.

Ifyouarejuststartingtolearntomakeyourownsausage,beginwiththebasicsausagesandtheirvariationsstartinghere.Themethodsformakingsimplefreshsausagesarethebasisforproducingalltypesofsausageandsalami.Asyoubecomemoreadeptatmarinating,grinding,andmixing,youmighttryyourhandatcasingfreshsausage.Onceyouhavepracticedthevariouscasing

techniques,youwillbeabletocrankoutlinksandloopstopreparepoachedorsmokedsausages,andifyouwanttogoastepfurther,youcanevennaturallyfermentyoursausagestomakesalami.

TheSausageShop

Althoughmakingsausageisnotcomplicated,itdoesrequirespace,time,tools,andalittleforethought.Preparationiskey.Youwillneedtosetupyourownsausageshoporworkspace,gatheralloftheessentialtoolsandingredients,andhaveathoroughunderstandingofanyrecipebeforeyougetcranking.

WorkspaceYouneedplentyofroomtocut,grind,andcasemeat.Chooseaworkareathataffordsalittleelbowroom,equippedwithaworksurfacethatisacomfortableheightforyou.Keepitfreeofinessentials.Haveonlythetoolsyouneedandastackofcleankitchentowels.Foreasyaccess,layyourtoolsoutabakingsheetortraylinedwithacleantowelbeforeyoubegin.Ifyourendgoalisasmokedsausage,driedsausage,orsalami,youwillwanttohavereadyaspacetohangyourfinishedsausage(seeHangingSalamiforInitialFermentationandforDrying).

TimeSausagetakestime.Simple,uncasedfreshsausagesmighttakeonlyanhourtoassemble,butasyouprogresstocasedandcookedsausagesordriedsausageandsalami,theprocesscantakeafewdays.It’sagoodideatobreakuptheprojectintostepsandspreadthestepsoutoverseveraldays,ratherthantrytoaccomplishtoomuchtooquickly,especiallywhileyouaregettingthehangofit.Plantogatheryourmaterialsadayortwoahead.Seasoningormarinatingthemeatisbestdonethedaybefore,althoughtwohourswillsufficeifyouarepressedfortime.Ifyouarepreparingacookedsausage,youmustallowanextradaytohangthefreshsausagebeforeyoupoachorsmokeit.

ToolsoftheTrade

Althoughyoucanmakesimpleuncasedsausagewithfreshlygroundmeatfromabutchershop,spices,andyourowntwohands,weencourageyoutotaketheplungeandtryyourhandatgrindingyourownmeatandcasingyoursausage.Thisrequiresalittleinvestmentinsomegoodtools.Ifyouarejustbeginningtomakesausage,startsimpleandberealisticaboutwhatyouactuallyneed.Youcanalwaysbeefupyourcollectionasyouhoneyourcraft.

MeatGrindersManualGrinders:Thisisyourgrandma’sgrinder.Itusuallyclampstoatable.Youfeedthecubesofmeatintothehopper,turnthecrank,andoutcomesfreshlygroundmeat.Thisisgreatifyouwanttogrindarelativelysmallquantityofmeatforsausagepatties,burgers,ormeatballs.It’ssmallandeasytoassemble,clean,andstore.Butforgrindingmorethanacoupleofpoundsofmeat,youmayfindittootime-consuming.Also,theseold-fashionedgrindersworkwellonlyifthebladeissharpenedorreplacedregularly.

ElectricMultipurpose:Ifyoualreadyownastandmixer,youcangetagrinderattachmentthatiscompact,easytouse,easytoclean,andaffordable.Thedrawbackisthatthesemachineslackchutzpah.Thebladeandgrinderplatesarenotasdurableandeffectiveasthoseonalargermachine.Thatmeans,togrindabout5pounds(2.3kg)ofmeat,youwillneedtoallowabout10minutes.Butifyouarejustbeginningorifyouonlymakesausageafewtimesayearandinsmallquantities,thistypeofmachinewillgetthejobdone.

ElectricSinglePurpose:Ifyouareagearhead,acommittedsausagefanatic,orlookingtoupgrade,youwillwantastand-alonegrinder.You’llfindmanydifferentmodelsofsingle-purpose,tabletopelectricgrindersonthemarket,andmostofthemwilldothejobwell.Lookforamachinethathaselectricalneedscompatiblewiththevoltageavailableinyourworkspaceandpartsthatareeasilyreplaceable.SeeSourcesforgrinderretailers.

Clockwisefromtopleft:stomper,collar,knife,plate,worm,feedertube

SausageStuffersElectric:Ifyoualreadyownastandmixerwithagrinderattachment,youcangetaveryaffordablestufferattachmentthatiscompactandeasytouse.Manymanualandelectricgrindersalsohaveoptionalstufferattachments.Thedownsideofastufferattachedtoagrinderisthatthemeatmustpassthroughthemechanismasecondtimebeforeitgoesintoacasing,whichcannegativelyaffectthetexturebymashingthemeat.However,ifspaceandpriceareanissue,thisiscertainlyanoption.

HandCrank:Ifyouenjoymakingsausage,ahand-crankstufferisworththeinvestment.Allofthemoperateonthesamepremise.Theyarecomprisedofabase,acanisterorcylinderwhereyouloadthefreshlygroundsausage,andacrankorhandlethatyourotatetomovethegearsthatcontrolthepistonthatpressesthesausagethroughthenozzle.Nozzlesofdifferentsizesworkwithassortedcasingstoproducesausagesofvaryingdiameters.Whenshoppingforahand-cranksausagestuffer,youhavethechoicebetween

horizontalandverticaldesigns.Horizontalstuffers,althoughoftenattractive,arenotparticularlypractical.Thedesignrequiresthattheybepositionedattheedgeofaworktable,theyoftenrequiretwosetsofhandstofunctionproperly,andtheytakeupaconsiderableamountofspace.Verticalstuffersarethemorecommonandversatilechoice.Averticalstufferrequiresonlyoneuser,hasacranklocatedatthetopofthemachinethatallowsyoutopositionitanywhereontheworksurface,andtakesupaminimumofsurfacearea.

SmokehousesSmokehousescanbecreatedfromvirtuallyanything,fromoldoildrumsandhouseholdchimneystocinderblocksandplywood.Ifmoneyisnoobject,deluxemodelsareavailableforpurchase,withtemperaturecontrolsanddigitaldisplays.Mostarebiggerthanabreadbox,butsomearethesizeofawalk-incloset.Ifyouareonlyplanningtosmokeonebatchofsausagesatatime,thenyoucangetawaywithasmaller,bread-box-sizemodel.Whendecidingwhattypeofsmokehouseisrightforyou,giveyourselfanhonestappraisalofyourDIYbuildingabilitiesandconsiderhowfrequentlyyouwillbeusingit,whetheryouwillbeusingittocoldsmoke,hotsmoke,orboth,howmuchyouwillbesmokingatanygiventime,andhowmuchroomyouhavetostoreyoursmokehouse.ThereisadiscussionofsmokehousesinChapter7,soifyou’replanningtomakeanyofthesmokedsausagerecipesinthischapter,readaboutFinishingwithSmoke.

SausageKnifeAsausageknifehasasmall,sharpparingbladeononeendandtinesontheoppositeend.Itisahandytoolusedduringthestuffingprocess.Theknifeendisusedtocutcasingsandtwine,andthetinesareusedtopiercethefilledcasingtoreleaseairbubbles.

SHooks

Shooksofvariousshapesandsizesareindispensable.LargerShooks(6to8inches/15to20cm)aregreatforhanginglengthsofsausagestosetovernightorinthesmokehouse.SmallerShooks(about1inch/2.5cm)arehandyforhangingindividualsalamiforlongperiodsoftime.

ScalesMostrecipesforsausageprovidemeasurementsinweight.Notonlyismeatgenerallypurchasedbyweightbutaweightmeasurementisalsotypicallymoreaccuratethanavolumemeasurement.Asmalldigitalelectronicscalethatmeasuresinincrementsof.01poundsorkilogramswillprovideyouwiththemostaccurateresults.Alternatively,ifyouwantsomethingalittlemoreoldschool,asturdy,calibratedanalogplatformscalewithacapacityofatleast10pounds(or5kg)willdothetrick.

Ingredients:MeatandFat

Allsausageiscomprisedmainlyofmeatandfat,usuallyinaratioofabout25percentfatto75percentleanmeat.Whenyoushopformeattomakesausage,choosefattieroruntrimmedcuts,whichwillprovideyouwithabitofbothmeatandfat.

PoultryandRabbitYoucanusenearlyanytypeofpoultrytomakesausage.Ifyouareusingwholebirds,biggerormorematureonesarebetter.Lookforpoultrylabeled“stewer.”Themeattoboneratiotendstobehigherinalargerbird,andthemuscleshavehadtimetobecomemorefullydeveloped,yieldingmoreflavorfulresults.Ifyouhavetheoptionofusingpoultryparts,optforbreastsoverlegsandthighs,whichhavetendonsthatwillneedtoberemoved.Largerorstewerrabbitsareoptimalforthesamereasons.Exceptforthebony

forelegs,youcanusealmosteverypartoftherabbit,includingthehindlegs,saddle,skirt,tenders,andkidneys.Eventhelivercanbegroundinwiththemeatordicedandfoldedintothefarce.Bothpoultryandrabbitarefairlyleanandrequireadditionalfattomake

sausage.Usingpoultryfattoproduceanall-poultrysausageisnotrecommended,however.Poultryfatispronetosmearingduringgrindingandliquefiesreadilyduringcooking,leavingyouwithadryandunappetizingsausage.Mostcommerciallyproducedpoultrysausagecontainsstabilizerssuchascollagenorgelatintocounteractsmearing.Addingalittleporkbackfatisanaturalalternativethatworksnicely.

PorkThepigwaspracticallydesignedforsausagemaking,andporkmakesthemostreliablydelicioussausage.Good-qualityporkisflavorfulonitsown,yetitcanalsoplayagoodsupportingroleforavarietyofotherflavors.Buymeatfromafullygrownhog(itshouldbeover150pounds/68kg).

Maturehogswithwell-developedmusclesandagoodfatcontentarepreferredoveryounger,leanerpigs,whicharebettersuitedtoroasting.ThenaturalfatcontentofabonelessBostonbuttisusuallyidealforsausagemaking,butyoucanalsouseamixtureofleanandfattrimmingsfromothercutsofpork,aslongasthefatcontentisabout25percent.Ifyouareusingadditionalporkfat,harderbackfatispreferabletothesofterlegandbellyfat.

LambLambsausagehasadistinctiveflavorthatstandsuptointensespicingorstrong,herbaceousseasonings.Bonelessshoulder,shank,neck,andlegareallgreatcutsforsausagemaking.Ifneeded,additionalfatcanbetakenfromthebreastorshoulder.Lambfatcanbeveryfirmandneedstobegroundtwice.Itcanalsobe

stronglyflavored.Ifyouaremakinganall-lambsausage,considersubstitutingoliveoilforaportionofthefatormakingasausagewithafatcontentslightlylowerthanthetraditional25percent.Alternatively,ifyoutendtoshyawayfromthestrongerflavoroflamb,tryusinghalfporkandhalflambinyourrecipe,forasausagewithasubtlerlambflavorandthegreattextureofpork.

BeefBeefhasanearthyflavor,andbeefsausagestendtobehighlyspiced.Chuck,brisket,sirloin,andtrimmingsfromroasts(suchasthesidemuscleoffofthetenderloin)makeexcellentsausage.Brisketandchuckareusuallyatleast25percentfat,sonoadditionalfatisneeded.Ifpossible,requestuntrimmedbeefcutsfromyourbutcher.Ifyouareusingleanercutsandneedadditionalfat,therib-eyefatcapworkswell.Beeffatisfirm,soalwaysgrindittwice.Avoidsuet(kidneyfat),asitistoosoftforsausagemaking.

BASICRECIPESFORSAUSAGE

POULTRYORRABBIT3¾pounds(1.7kg)boneless,skinlesspoultryorrabbit+1¼pound(567g)porkbackfat+2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)fineseasalt—5pounds(2.3kg)basicpoultryorrabbitsausageLAMB

3pounds(1.4kg)bonelesslambshoulder+2pounds(900g)leanbonelesslambforeshankorhindshank+2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)seasalt+2tablespoonsoliveoil

—5pounds(2.3kg)basicall-lambsausageAlternatively2½pounds(1.2kg)bonelesslambshoulder+2½pounds(1.2kg)bonelessporkpicnic+2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)seasalt—5pounds(2.3kg)basiclambandporksausagePORK4½pounds(2kg)bonelessporkpicnic+8ounces

(225g)porkbackfator5pounds(2.3kg)bonelessporkBostonbutt+2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)fineseasalt—5pounds(2.3kg)basicporksausageBEEF

5pounds(2.3kg)untrimmedbeefchuckorbrisket+2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)seasalt—5pounds(2.3kg)basicall-beefsausageAlternatively3pounds(1.4kg)untrimmedbeefsuchaschuckorbrisket+2pounds(900g)porkBostonbutt+2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)seasalt—5pounds(2.3kg)basicbeefandporksausage

BasicSausageMethod

Theprocessformakingnearlyeverykindofsausagebeginswiththesamesteps.First,youassembleaspicekitandcutthemeat.Next,youmixthemeatwiththespices,leaveittomarinateforawhile,andthengrindit.Onceitisground,themeatismixedagainbyhand.Thesausageisnowreadytouseorreadytocase.

Step1:AssembletheSpiceKitYourspicekitconsistsoftheingredientsyouwillbeusingtoflavoryoursausage.Manysausage-makingsupplycompaniessellready-madespicekits,buttoastingandgrindingyourownspicesmakesadifferenceyoucantaste.Beginbymeasuringthesalt.Thenmeasureyourspices.Iftherecipecallsfor

toastedspices,youwillwanttotoastthemina325°F(165°C)ovenfor3to5minutes.Allowthemtocool,thengrindthemtogetherinaspicegrinder.Formostsausage,unlessotherwiseindicated,youwillwanttogrindyourspicesveryfinely.Mixthegroundspiceswiththesalt.Iftherecipecallsforgarlic,minceitfinelyandthenaddittothespicekitalongwithanywholespices.

Step2:CuttingCutthemeatintorelativelyuniformcubesthataresmallerthantheopeningofyourgrinder(formostgrinders,1-inch/2.5cmcubesarebest).Removeanybloodvessels,tendons,orglands.Placethecubedmeatinanonreactivebowlorcontainerlargeenoughtoallowroomformixing.

Step3:MarinatingEvenlydistributehalfofthecontentsofthespicekitoverthemeat.Usingyourhandsmixthemeatwelluntilevenlycoated.Addthesecondhalfofthekitandmixagain.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast12hoursorforupto2daystoallowtheseasoningstopermeatethemeat.

Step4:ChillingSausagelikestobekeptcold.Chillingbothyourmeatandpartsofthegrinderhelpstoavoidgrindingissuessuchassmearing.Keepingthemeatcoldbeforeandduringtheprocessalsoextendstheshelflifeofthefinishedsausage.Aftercuttingandmarinatingthemeat,besuretorefrigerateitforatleast2hoursandpreferablyovernight,sothatitisthoroughlychilled.Youcanalsorefrigeratethepartsofthegrinder.Keepeverythingrefrigerateduntilyouarereadytogrind.

Step5:GrindingWhichevertypeofgrinderyouuse,themechanicsandsetupareessentiallythesame.Beginbyattachingthefeedertubetothebaseofthemachine.Inserttheworm(seephoto)intothetube.Attachthebladeorknife,flatsideout,totheworm.Mostgrinderscomewithmultipleplatestoallowyoutovarythesizeofthegrind.Choosetheplateforthetypeofgrindyouaretryingtoachieve.Attachtheplateflushwiththeopeningofthefeedertube.Screwthecollarontotheendofthetubesecurely,butdonotovertighten.Ifyourgrinderisequippedwithatray,attachittothetopofthefeedertube.Youwillneedawidenonreactivebowlorcontainerthatfitseasilyunderthe

grindertocatchthegroundmeat.Removethemeatfromtherefrigerator.Ifyouareusinganelectricgrinderturniton.Feedthemeatintothetube,onepieceatatime.Letthemachinedotheworkratherthanpushtoomuchmeatthroughthegrinderatonce.Ifyouareusinganelectricgrinder,allowthemachinetorunforafullminuteafterthelastofthemeathasbeenfedthroughthetubetoexpelanyremnants.Wipethefaceoftheplatecleanwhilethemachineisstillrunningandthenturnthemachineoff.Inmostcases,youwillgrindabatchofmeatonlyonce.Theexceptionsareburgermeat,beeffat,lambfat,andsausageswithaverysmoothconsistency,whichneedtobegroundtwice.

Step6:MixingSeasoned,groundsausagemeat,alsoknownasthefarceorforcemeat,needstobemixedthoroughlybyhandfor1to2minutes.Thisaction,similartokneading

breaddough,helpstodeveloptheproteinsthatbindthesausagetogether.Italsoensuresthattheseasoningsareevenlydistributedthroughout.Whenamorehomogenoustextureisdesired,somesausagemeatismixedfurtherinastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorinafoodprocessor.Thisprocessiscalledemulsifying.

Step7:TastingScoopupabout2tablespoonsofthewell-mixedfarceandshapeintoasmall,flatpatty.Cookthepattyinasmallpanovermediumheat.Evaluatethetasteandtexture.Ifthesausageseemsdryandcrumbly,incorporateasmallamountofgroundfat.Iftheseasoningneedstobemorepronounced,addmoresaltorspices.Ifthesausageistoohighlyseasonedforyourtaste,addasmallamountofunseasonedgroundmeatandgroundfattohelptoabsorbsomeoftheexcess.Remember,itismucheasiertoaddsaltandspicesthanitistolessentheirintensityoncethefarceisprepared.Ifyoutendtolikemildlyseasonedsausage,startwithabouthalftheamountofsaltandspicesandaddmoretotasteifneeded.

SMEARING

Ifthefatbeginstosqueezeoutofthesidesofthegrinderinshiny,flatribbonsorthroughthedieingreasy-lookingstreaks,stop!Youhavesmearing,aconditionthatcanruinthetextureofyoursausage.Youneedtohaltgrinding,identifythecause,andremedythesituation.Herearethreeprimarycausesandtheirsolutions:

1.Thegrinderorthemeatistoowarm.Checkthetemperatureofthemeatandthegrinder.Washthegrinder,chilldownthegrinderpartsandanyungroundmeatfor30minutes,andstartover.

2.Theknifeisinsertedbackward.Takeapartthegrinder.Washandchillthepartsandreassemblecarefully,makingsuretheknifeisfacingflatsideout.

3.Theknifebladeisdull.Knifebladesdowearoutovertime.Keepingasparebladeonhandisalwaysagoodidea.Replacethebladeandmakesuretohavetheoldbladesharpened.

TheUglyBurger

THEUGLYBURGER

Aburgerisessentiallyaverybasicbeefsausage.Ofcourse,nowthatwe’vestressedtheimportanceofmarinatingandmixing,forgetallofthat.TheguidingprinciplebehindTheUglyBurgeristoseasonthemeatjustbeforecookingandtomanipulateitaslittleaspossibleforahomelybutextraordinarilytender,juicyburgerthatwillleaveyouwonderinghowsomethingsouglyandsimplecouldpossiblytastesogood.MAKES

FOUR8-OUNCE(225G)BURGERS

1pound(450g)bonelessbeefchuck,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1pound(450g)bonelessbeefshortrib,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2teaspoonsfineseasalt

Placeallofthebeefintoanonreactivebowlandrefrigeratefor1hour.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Prepareahotfirefordirect-heatgrillinginacharcoalgrill.Assemblethegrinderwiththemediumplateandgrindthechilledbeefonce.

Sprinklehalfofthesaltoverthegroundbeef,andthengrindagain.Withoutmixing,dividethegroundmeatinto4equalportions.Carefullyflatteneachportioninapatty1inch(2.5cm)thickandgentlyroundtheedges.Afewcracksareokay.Makeasmallindentationinthemiddleofeachpattywithyourthumbtokeeptheburgerfromcontractingduringcooking,thensprinkletheremainingsaltoverbothsides.Placethepattiesonthegrillgratedirectlyoverthecoalsandgrill,turning

frequently,forabout4to6minutes,oruntildonetoyourliking.

DuckandLemongrassSausagePatties

DUCKANDLEMONGRASSSAUSAGEPATTIES

Thesefragrantsausagepattiesaregreatgrilledandusedinasimplerice-bowlmealwithherbsorinabanhmi(Vietnamesesandwich).Themixturecanalsobecrumbledintoastir-fry,grilledonskewers(orlemongrass,asinthephoto),encasedinadumplingwrapperandsteamed,orformedintolittlemeatballsandcombinedwithnoodlesinanoodlesoupbroth.MAKESEIGHT5-OUNCE(140G)PATTIES

1pound,14ounces(850g)boneless,skinlessduckmeat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes10ounces(280g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1tablespoon(6ounces/17g)fineseasalt2teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper1teaspoonsugar2teaspoonsfishsauce1tablespoonmincedshallot1tablespoonmincedlemongrass1½teaspoonspeeled,grated,thenchoppedfreshginger1½teaspoonsmincedgarlic

Placetheduckandfatinanonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,combinethesalt,pepper,sugar,fishsauce,shallot,lemongrass,ginger,andgarlicandmixwell.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwithsmallestplateandgrindthemeatonce.Mixthefarcewellbyhandfor2minutes.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Forpatties,dividethefarceinto4equalportionsandcarefullyflatteneachportionintoapatty¾inch(2cm)thick.Grill,crumble,orotherwiseenjoyassuggestedintheheadnote.

LAMBANDHERBMEATBALLS

Aleppopepper,namedfortheSilkRoadcityofAleppo,inSyria,ispopularthroughouttheMiddleEast,theMediterranean,andinourkitchenattheFattedCalf,whereitmakesanappearanceinnumerousrecipes,includingmanyofourfavoritelambdishes.Thevibrant,flakygroundchilehasasharp,almostcitrus-flavoredstingthatisfollowedbyamellow,earthycurrentofheat,aqualitythatremainsdistincteveninthepanoramaofherbsandspicesusedtoseasonthesesavorymeatballs.Thesemeatballscanbebrownedinoliveoilandthensimmeredin

ChileTomatoSauceorskeweredandgrilled.Alternatively,tomakelambburgers,dividethefarceinto6equalportionsandshapeeachportionintoapatty¾inch(2cm)thick.MAKESABOUT36SMALLMEATBALLS

1teaspoonfenugreekseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1largeallspiceberry1smalldriedbayleaf1tablespoonfineseasalt1½teaspoonscrusheddriedAleppopepper2teaspoonsfinelychoppedgarlic2½pounds(1.2kg)bonelesslambshoulderorleg,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1tablespoongratedyellowonion2tablespoonschoppedfreshmint2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro¼cup(15g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley1tablespoonoliveoil

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthefenugreek,blackpeppercorns,coriander,mustard,andallspiceonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addthebay,andgrindfinely.Tomakethespicekit,inasmallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,

salt,Aleppopepper,andgarlicandmixwell.Placethelambinanonreactive

bowlorcontainer.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthemeattwice.Addtheonion,mint,cilantro,parsley,andoliveoilandmixwellbyhandfor2to3minutes.Themixtureshouldbegintofirmupandfeelcohesive.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Rollthemixtureintomeatballsabout1½inches(4cm)indiameter,thenuseinoneofthedeliciouswaysspecifiedintheheadnote.

OAXACAN-STYLECHORIZO

ThisisaboldlyseasonedchorizowedevelopedforourfriendsatRanchoGordo,inNapa,California,whentheywerehostingesteemedMexican-foodwriterDianaKennedy.Inadditiontosellingawidevarietyofdriedbeans,chiles,grains,andotherfoodproducts,RanchoGordocarriesanintenselytropicalbananavinegarthatprovidesafruitycounterpointfortheearthy,fierychiles.Weusuallyleavethischorizolooseforuseinlittletacos,formixing

withpotatoes,orforaddingtosoupsandstews.Itcanalsobeputintoporkcasingsaboutafoot(30cm)long,tiedintoloops,hungovernightinacoolplace,andthengrilledslowlyorsmoked.MAKESAGENEROUS5

POUNDS(2.3KG)

4pounds(1.8kg)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1pound(450g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(1.4ounces/40g)fineseasalt6guajillochiles6anchochiles

2moritachipotlechiles3driedárbolchiles2teaspoonspeppercorns6allspiceberries2tablespoonscuminseeds4wholecloves

1½-inch(4cm)piececinnamonstick5clovesgarlic,unpeeled½cupfruityvinegar(suchasbanana,pineapple,orcider)1teaspoonachiotepowder2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme2tablespoonschoppedfreshoregano

Placethemeatandfatinalargenonreactivebowl.Seasonthemeatwiththesalt.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Toastallofthechilesonacomal(aMexicangriddle)oracast-ironfryingpan

overmediumheatforabout1minute,untilfragrantandpliable.Turnoutontoa

platetocool.Removethestemandseedsfromeachchileanddiscard.Tearthechilesintosmallerpieces,placeinabowl,addwarmwatertocover,andletsoakforabout30minutes,untilsoftened.Drainthechiles,reservingthechilesandafewtablespoonsofthesoakingliquidseparately.Usingthesamecomalorfryingpan,toastthepeppercorns,allspice,cumin,

cloves,andcinnamonstickovermediumheatfor2to3minutes,untilfragrant.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thentransfertoaspicegrinderandgrindfinely.Dryroastthegarliconthesamecomalorfryingpanovermediumheatfor

about5minutes,untiltheskindarkensandthegarlicreleasesafragrantaroma.Whentheclovesarecoolenoughtohandle,peelandchop.Inablender,combinethevinegar,chiles,groundspices,garlic,andachiote

powderandpureeuntilsmooth.Ifthemixtureistoothick,thinwithreservedchilesoakingliquidasneededtoachieveagoodconsistency.Scrapethepureeintoalargenonreactivebowlandfoldinthethymeandoregano.Placethebowldirectlyunderthemeatgrinder.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththelargestplateandgrindthemeatoncedirectlyintothechile-spicepuree.Mixthefarcewellbyhandfor2to3minutes.Themixtureshouldbegintofirmupandfeelcohesive.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Useassuggestedintheheadnote.

SAUSAGEANDSEASONINGCHART

Youcanusethebasicsausagerecipestocreateavarietyofdifferentsausagesbyalteringthespicekit.

Sausage:BasqueBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonspimentd’Espelette1

teaspoontoastedandgroundaniseeds1driedbayleaf,ground1tablespoonmincedgarlic

Grind:MediumGarnish:¼cup(60ml)dryredwine

Casing:Lamb

Sausage:BlackTruffleBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper3allspiceberries,ground1teaspoonmincedgarlic

Grind:FineGarnish:1ounce(30g)freshblacktruffle,grated2tablespoonsCognac

Casing:LamborPork

Sausage:BordelaiseBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper2tablespoonsmincedgarlicGrind:

FineGarnish:1½cups(360ml)dryredwinereducedto½cup(120ml)¼cup(15g)

choppedfreshflat-leafparsleyCasing:Lamb

Sausage:BreakfastBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoongroundcayenne⅛teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1allspiceberry,ground1tablespoonmincedgarlic

Grind:MediumGarnish:½cup(30g)finelychoppedfreshsageCasing:Lamb

Sausage:CalabreseBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:¼cup(25g)toastedandgroundfennelseeds2tablespoonstoastedand

groundcuminseeds2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoon

freshlygroundwhitepepper2tablespoonsgroundchileflakes1½teaspoonsgrounddriedoregano2tablespoonsmincedgarlicGrind:FineGarnish:

¼cup(60ml)drywhitewineCasing:Pork

Sausage:Farmer’sSausageBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoontoastedandgroundaniseeds1teaspoongroundcayenne

Grind:MediumGarnish:1½cups(360ml)dryredwinereducedto½cup(120ml)2tablespoonsgratedPecorinoRomanocheeseCasing:Pork

Sausage:FennelBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:2tablespoonstoastedandgroundfennelseeds1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper2teaspoonsgrounddriedoregano4teaspoonsmincedgarlic

Grind:MediumGarnish:½cup(30g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonswholefennelseeds,toasted1tablespoonchileflakes

¼cup(60ml)drywhitewineCasing:Lamb

Sausage:LemonandHerbBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1½teaspoonstoastedandgroundcoriander2driedbayleaves,ground

Grind:FineGarnish:Gratedzestof2lemons¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine½cup(30g)choppedfreshherbs,suchasflat-leafparsley,chives,thyme,oregano,orsageCasing:Lamb

Sausage:MerguezBasicSausageRecipe:LambSpiceKit:1½teaspoonstoastedandgroundcuminseeds1½teaspoonstoastedandgroundcorianderseeds1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoontoastedandgroundfennelseeds1staranise,toastedandground2allspiceberries,toastedandground1tablespoonplus½teaspoonpaprika⅛teaspoongroundcinnamon

2tablespoonsgroundcayenneGrind:FineGarnish:Gratedzestof½lemonmixedwith1tablespoonoliveoilCasing:Lamb

Sausage:RabbitBoudinBasicSausageRecipe:RabbitorPorkSpiceKit:

1teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper1½teaspoonsgroundyellowmustardseeds1tablespoongrounddriedthyme1½teaspoonspimentd’EspeletteGrind:Fine,twiceGarnish:

NoneCasing:Lamb

Sausage:SpicyItalianBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:3tablespoonstoastedandgroundfennelseeds1teaspoonfreshlyground

blackpepper½teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper4teaspoonsgroundchileflakes1tablespoonplus½teaspoonpaprika1tablespoonmincedgarlic

Grind:MediumGarnish:2tablespoonsdrywhitewineCasing:Pork

Sausage:SweetItalianBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:3tablespoonstoastedandgroundfennelseeds1½teaspoonstoastedand

groundaniseeds3allspiceberries,ground1teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoongrounddriedoregano1

tablespoonmincedgarlicGrind:MediumGarnish:½cup(30g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine

Casing:Pork

Sausage:ToulouseBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper3wholecloves,ground⅛teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg5allspiceberries,ground2tablespoonsmincedgarlicGrind:MediumGarnish:None

Casing:Pork

Sausage:WildMushroomBasicSausageRecipe:PorkSpiceKit:1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper2allspiceberries,ground1driedbayleaf,ground1teaspoonsweet(dulce)pimentónGrind:FineGarnish:1cup(163g)sautéedwildmushrooms2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme2

tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼cup(60ml)dryredwineCasing:Lamb

StuffedSausage

Stuffingsausagehastraditionallybeenthenaturaloutcomeofpracticalbutchery.“Wastenot,wantnot”wasthemantraofourancestors,andsoalloftherandombitsandpieceswereseasoned,ground,andstuffedintotheanimal’sintestines.Ifyouaregettingseriousaboutyoursausage,youwillwanttotryyourhandatthetime-honoredcraftofcasingsausage.Stuffingyoursausagetakesittothenextlevel.Loops,coils,linksofvaryinglengths,andpreciouspacketswrappedinwebbycaulfatarethehallmarkofsophisticatedbutchersandcharcutiers.Withalittlepractice,youcancrankoutanarrayofmeatybeautiesandcontinuetheage-oldtradition.

SausageCasingsNaturalcasingsaretheprocessedlamb,pork,andbeefintestinesusedforcasingsausageandsalami.Somewhatpermeable,theyallowtheperfumeofsmokeortheflavorofapoachingliquortopenetratethemeatwhiletheircontentsremainjuicyandsecure.Naturalcasingscomeinavarietyofdifferentdiameters(expressedinmetricunits;1inchequals25mm)tosuityourneedsandcanbepurchasedfromaspecialtybutcherorsausagesupplycompany(seeSources).Thelamb,pork,andbeefcasingsaretypicallysoldpackedinsaltorbrine.

Beforetheycanbeused,theymustberinsedthoroughlyinseveralchangesofcoldwater.Oncerinsed,theycanbestoredimmersedinwaterintherefrigeratorforupto5days.Forlongerstorage,drainthem,packtheminfineseasalt,andrefrigeratethemforupto6months.Thecasingsthatfollowarethemostcommonlyusedinthecharcuterie,and

theonesusedthroughouttherecipesofthisbook.LambCasings:Lambcasingsarethemostdelicatenaturalintestinalcasings,and

theytendtorequirealittlemorepracticeandattention.Theyareusuallysoldintwodifferentdiameters:22to24mm,usedforbreakfastlinksormerguez,and24to26mm,alsoknownasafrankfurtercasing,commonlyusedforhotdogs.Lambcasingsaresoldbythehank(100feet/30m),butyoucanoftenpurchasesmallerquantitiesfromagoodbutcher.Youwillneedabout4feet(1.2m)oflambcasingforeverypound(450g)ofmeat.

HogCasings:Hogorporkcasingsarethemostcommon,versatile,andeasy-to-usenaturalcasing.Theyaretraditionallyusedformanydifferenttypesofsausages,includingmostItaliansausages,kielbasa,andboudinnoir.Hogcasingscomeinavarietyofsizes.The32to35mmsizeisagoodall-purposecasingfor

mostsausages.Theyaresoldbythehank(100feet/30m),butyoucanusuallybuysmallerquantitiesfromagoodbutcher.Youwillneedabout2feet(60cm)ofhogcasingforeverypound(450g)ofmeat.

BeefMiddlesandSewnBeefMiddles:Beefmiddlesareanaturalpartofthebeefintestinetraditionallyusedforsalamiandcotechino.Theyaregenerallysoldbythepieceandcanbeaslongas10feet(3m).Planonusingabout1foot(30cm)ofbeefmiddleforeverypound(450g)ofsausage.Sewnbeefmiddles,alsoknownasstitchedbeefmiddles,arebeefmiddlesthat

havebeenreinforcedandclosedatoneend,makingthemverysturdyandperfectformedium-sizecuredsalami.Liketheregularmiddles,theyaresoldbythepiece,buttheyaremuchmoreexpensive.Bothtypesofmiddlescomepackedinsaltandneedtobethoroughlyrinsedin

severalchangesofwaterthensoakedovernight.Besuretoturnthemiddlesinsideoutbeforeusingtoexposetheirsmoothinterior.Oncerinsed,theycanbestoredinwaterintherefrigeratorforupto5days.Forlongerstorage,middlesshouldbedrained,salted,andfrozen.

BeefCaps:Beefcaps,orbungs,areanotherpartofthenaturalbeefintestine.Muchlargerindiameterthanmiddles,theyarethetraditionalchoiceformortadellaandotherlargesalami.Theyareusuallysoldbythepiece,andthoughtheyrangeinsize,mostcapscanholdabout7pounds(3.2kg)ofmeat.Beefcapscomepackedinsaltandneedtobethoroughlyrinsedinseveral

changesofwaterthensoakedovernight.Aswithbeefmiddles,youshouldturncapsinsideoutpriortousingtoexposetheirsmoothinterior.Oncerinsed,theycanbestoredinwaterintherefrigeratorforupto5days.Forlongerstorage,capsshouldbedrained,salted,andfrozen.

CaulFat:Caulfatisthelacy,weblikefatharvestedfromaroundtheporklivertraditionallyusedtolineterrinesorwrapcrépinettesandother“uncased”sausagesintoneatpackets.Extremelysturdyandversatile,itcanbepurchasedfreshorfrozen.Unlikeintestinecasings,itisnotsoldsalted,butitstillmustbewellrinsedtoriditofanyremainingbloodandthensqueezeddrybeforeusing.Youwillneedabout1pound(450g)ofcaulfattowrap3to4pounds(1.4to1.8kg)ofmeat.Anyunusedcaulfatcanbestoredimmersedinwaterwithalittlewhite

vinegarforupto5days.Forlongerstorage,squeezeoutasmuchwateraspossibleandfreeze.

Fromleft:beefcap/bung,beefmiddle,hogcasing,lambcasing

StuffingandLinkingSausage

Stuffingandlinkingtakepractice.Don’tbediscouragedifyourfirstfewbatches

ofsausagelookalittleirregular.Theywillstilltastegreat.Withpractice,yourmoveswillimprove,andbeforeyouknowit,you’llbecrankinglikeapro.

AssemblingtheStuffer

1.Setthebaseonaworksurface.AdamptowelorC-clampwillhelptokeepthestufferinplaceasyouwork.

2.Screwthelidontothepiston.

3.Attachthehandleandrotateituntilthelidascendstoitstopmostposition.

4.Transferthesausagemeatintothecanisterusingyourhands,packingitdownfirmlyeachtime.

5.Setthecanisterintothebase.

6.Placeabakingpanortrayunderneaththenozzletoholdthefinishedsausageasyoustuff.Youarenowreadytostuff.

BLOWOUTS

Blowoutshappen.Evenpeoplewhohavebeenmakingsausageforyearsexperiencetheexploding-sausagephenomenon.Ifyoudon’tbusttheoccasionalcasing,youareprobablynotfillingthecasingtightlyenough.Whenacasingdoesburst,simplysqueezethefarcefromthecasingandsetitaside.Cutawayanddiscardthedamagedportionofthecasing,slipthenewendofthecasingoverthenozzle,andcontinuetocase.Reloadthereservedfarceintothestufferatthenextopportunity;makesurethecasingisn’tknottedattheendofthenozzletoavoidtrappingairasyoureloadthecanister.

StuffingTherewillalwaysbeasmallamountofsausageleftinthebottomofthecanisterandinthenozzlethatwon’tmakeitintothecasing.Thisextrafarcecanberolledintolittlemeatballs,flattenedintopattiesandgrilledlikeburgers,addedtosoups,orusedasastuffingforvegetablesorroasts.

1.Removealengthofsoakedcasingfromthewater.Openoneendandpourabout1tablespoonwaterintothecasingtolubricate.Threadtheentirelengthofcasingontothenozzle.

2.Turnthecranksothatthelidpressesgentlyontothetopofthemeat,forcingjust½inch(12mm)ofthemeatoutthroughthenozzle.Thishelpstoeliminateairpockets.

3.Pulltheendofthecasingovertheedgeofthenozzle,thenknottheendofthecasing.Ifyouareusingsewnbeefmiddlesorbeefcaps,skiptheknot,astheyarealreadyclosedattheend.

4.Placeyourthumbandforefingeraroundtheendofthenozzletoregulatethemovementofthe

casing.

5.Crankthehandleslowlytopressthesausagemeatintothecasing.Releasemorecasingoffthenozzleasthesausageflowsthroughthetube.

6.Ifanairbubbleforms,prickthesausagecasingwiththetinesofasausageknifetoreleaseit.

Ifyoubegintorunoutofcasing,pause.Leaveyourselfatleast3inches(7.5cm)ofunstuffedcasingandremovethelengthfromthenozzle.Continuewithanewlengthofcasing.

LinkingOnceallofyoursausageiscased,youcanbegintheprocessoflinking.Youcanmakelinksinbothhogandlambcasingsinavarietyofsizes.

1.Decidethelengthofyoursausages.Cutalengthoftwinetothedesiredlengthofyourindividualsausagelinkstouseasaguide.

2.Usetheguidetopinchoffyourfirstlengthofsausage.Alignthestringwiththeknottedendofstuffedcasingandpinchdownwithyourthumbandforefingertoseparatethefirstlinkfromthestuffedcasing.

3.Twisttosecurethelink.Rotatethelinkawayfromyouaboutseventimes.

4.Startasecondlink.Movethestringtoalignwiththeendofthefirstlinktocreatethesecondlink.

5.Usingthestringasaguide,pinchoffthesecondlink.Pinchdownattheendofthesecondlink,thenrotatetowardyouaboutseventimes.

6.Continuelinking.Repeatthisprocessalternatingthedirectionofrotationwitheachlink.

7.Separatethelinks.Whenallofthesausagehasbeencased,snipbetweeneachlinkwithscissorsleavingalittle“tail”oneitherendofeachsausagetopreventthefarcefromspillingoutduringcooking.Ifyouwillbehangingyoursausageovernight,keepthelinksattachedinlengthsoffourtoeight,andhangeachlengthinarefrigeratedlocation.

CoilingInsteadoflinkingthesausage,youcanformimpressivecoilsthatmakeeasyworkofgrilling.Thinnercoilsaremadewithlambcasing,andsomewhatthickercoilsaremadewithhogcasing.Tosetthecoils,youwillneedmetalorbambooskewersthatareatleast10inches(25cm)long.

1.Soaktheskewers.Ifyouareusingbambooskewers,soakthemincoolwaterforatleast30minutes.

2.Linkthesausage.Followthedirectionsformakinglinks,butpinchoffandrotatelengthsof18to24inches(45to60cm),thensnipapartwithscissorsasdirected.

3.Startcoiling.Withonehand,pressonetailendofcasingontoyourworksurfacetocreateacenterpointandholditfirmly.Then,withtheotherhand,tightlywindthesausagearoundthecenterpoint.

4.Securethecoil.Piercetheouterendofthecasing(about½inch/12mmfromthetailofthelink)withthepointedendoftheskewerandinserttheskewerdirectlythroughthecenterofthecoil,paralleltotheworksurface.

5.Skeweragain.Rotatethecoil90degreesandrunasecondskewerdirectlythroughthecenterofthecoil.

LoopingSausagethatyouwillbehangingforsmokingorair-dryingisoftencasedinloops,whichworkbestifhogcasingshavebeenused.

1.Preparetocaseyoursausage.Pullabout1inch(2.5cm)oftheendofthecasingovertheopeningofthenozzleandknot.

2.Cuta5-inch(12cm)lengthofbutcher’stwine.Tieitdirectlybelowtheknot.

3.Stuffthesausage.Crankthehandleslowlytopressthesausagemeatintothecasingtoforman18-inch(46cm)length.Youwillwanttostufflinkstobeloopedmorefullyandfirmlythanyoustuffregularlinks.

4.Loopthesausage.Withoneendstillattachedtothenozzle,formthelinkintoaloop.

5.Tie.Tiethetwoendstogetherwiththelooseendsofthetwine,thenreinforcewithasecondknot.

6.Loopthetwine.Createaloopoftwine1inch(2.5cm)indiameterbyknottingthetwolooseendsoftwine.Youwillusethistwinelooptohangyourloopedsausage.

7.Startasecondloop.Pull2inches(5cm)ofemptycasingoffofthenozzleandtieaknotwithanew5-inch(12cm)lengthoftwinetobeginthenextloop.Then,usingscissors,severthefirstloop.

WrappingWrappingsausageincaulfatisagreatalternativetousingcasings,especiallyif

youaremakingasmallamountforfreshconsumptionordonothaveaccesstoasausagestuffer.

1.Dividethesausage.Usingascale,dividetheloosesausageintoequal-sizeportions.Ingeneral,4to5ounces(115to140ounces)isagoodportionsize.

2.Shapethesausagemeatbyhandintopatties¾inch(2cm)thick,smoothingtheedgesandeliminatinganycracks.

3.Prepthecaulfat.Removeapieceofcaulfatfromthewaterandsqueezewelltoremoveanyexcesswater.Spreadthecaulfatoutonaworksurface.

4.Laythesausagepattiesonthecaulfat,leavinga2-inch(5cm)borderofcaulfataroundeachpatty.

5.Wrap.Pulltheedgeofthecaulfatoverthepatties.Cutthecaulfataroundthepatties.Trimanyoverlappingcaulfat,thenpinchtoclosetheseam.

CookedSausage

Manytraditionalsausagesarefinishedwithanextracookingstep,suchaspoachingorsmoking.Fromrichbloodsausagetosmokykolbász,delicatebockwursttosnappyhotlinks,theprocessofcookingisusedtoimpartflavor,providetexture,andhelptopreservethesausage.

PoachingPoachingisusedtosetorfirmthetextureofasausagewithawetorsoftfarce,astepthatallowsittobecookedeffortlesslyatanotherpoint.Somesausagesarepoachedimmediatelyfollowingcasing;othersarebetteriftheyarepoachedafterbeinghungovernight.Heatalargepotofwaterbeforeyoubegingrindingyourmeat.A12-quart

(11.4L)stockpotwillcomfortablyaccommodatea5-pound(2.3kg)batchofsausage.Donotletthewatercometoaboil;instead,keepitjustbelowasimmer.Seasonthewaterwithsalt.Forevery4quarts(3.8L)water,add3tablespoonsfineseasalt.Grind,case,andlinkyoursausage,butleavethelinksattachedratherthan

clippingthemapart.Insertathermometertocheckthetemperatureofthepoachingwater.Theoptimaltemperatureisabout160°F(70°C).Transferthelinkstothepotandallowthemtopoachgently.Meanwhile,

preparealargeice-waterbath.Toensurethelinkscookevenly,carefullystirthemeverynowandagain.Thetotalcookingtimeisusually15to20minutes.Thesausagesarereadywhenathermometerinsertedintothecenterofasausageregisters140°F(60°C).Usingaslottedspoon,removethelinksandplacethemdirectlyintotheice-waterbathtostopthecookingandtohelptoprevent

shrinkage.Whenthelinksarethoroughlychilled,removethemfromtheicebathandclip

intoindividuallinks.Lineabakingsheetortraywithacleankitchentowelandplacethelinksonthepan.Refrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,transferthesausagestoanairtightcontainerandreturnthemtotherefrigerator.Storagetimevariesfromrecipetorecipe,butitsusuallyaround5days.

THESAUSAGEPARTY

Invitingoverafewgamefriendstojoinyouinmakingsausagecanlightentheworkloadandmaketheprocessevenmorefun.

Aheadoftime,decidewhattypesofsausageyouwanttomake.Ifthisisthefirsttimeforsomepeople,choosejustonetypeofstuffedsausage,oroptforafreshsausageandcrépinettesorpatties.Ifyouareoldpros,chooseafewdifferentrecipes,includingsomethingthatyouwillpoachorsmoke.Decidewhowillberesponsibleforpurchasingandgatheringspecificsupplies,andmailorderanyspecialsupplies,suchascasingsorcuringsalt,ifnecessary.Makesureyouhaveallofthenecessaryequipmentandthatitisingoodworkingorder.Finally,setthetimetogettogether.

Onedaybeforeyouplantomeet,gatheryoursupplies.Shopforyourmeatandotheranyingredientsyouwillneed.Prepareyourspicekits,thencutyourmeatandmarinateit.

Gettogetherforthemaineventofgrindingandcasing.

BOCKWURST

BockwurstisaclassicGermansausagemadefromamixtureofvealandporkandseasonedwithfreshherbs.Traditionally,itwaseateninthespringtoaccompanytherich,maltybockbeerthathadbeenbrewedbymonksinthewintermonthsfordrinkingatthefinishofLentenfasting.Althoughyoucanenjoythiswurstanytimeofyear,afewlinksbrownedinbutteroronthegrillandservedalongsidegreengarlicmashedpotatoesandatallglassofdarklagerseemsliketheperfectwelcometothespringseason.MAKESABOUT5½POUNDS(2.5KG)OR18TO20(6-

INCH/15CM)LINKS

2½pounds(1.2kg)bonelessvealshoulder,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1¾pounds(800g)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes12ounces(340g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes½teaspoonwhitepeppercorns4wholecloves

¼teaspoonmaceblades3allspiceberries2tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(1.4ounces/40g)fineseasalt¼teaspoongroundgingerGARNISH

3eggs1cup(240ml)heavycream½cup(25g)

thinlyslicedfreshchives¼cup(15g)choppedfreshsageFinelychoppedzestof1lemon10quarts(9.5L)waterseasonedwith½cup(140g)fineseasaltforpoaching10feet(3m)preparedhogcasings

Placetheveal,pork,andfatinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,inaspicegrinder,combinethepepper,cloves,mace,andallspiceandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowlandstirinthesaltandginger.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,and

refrigerateovernight.Toassemblethegarnish,inabowl,whisktogethertheeggsandcreamuntil

justblended.Foldinthechives,sage,andlemonzest.Refrigerateuntilreadytouse.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthemeatstwice.Pourinthegarnishandmixwellbyhandfor3minutes.Thefarceneedstobemixedespeciallywelltokeepthecreamfromseparatingduringcooking.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Fillalargestockpotwiththesaltedpoachingwaterandheatonthestovetop

to160°F(70°C).FollowingtheinstructionsforStuffingandLinkingSausage,stuffthefarcein

thehogcasingsandlinkintosausagesabout6inches(15cm)long,leavingthesausagesconnected.Placethelinksinthepoachingwater.Itmaybenecessarytoadjusttheheat,asthetemperaturewilldropslightlywhenyouaddthelinkstothepot.Poachthelinksslowlyfor15to20minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofasausageregisters140°F(60°C).Meanwhile,preparealargeice-waterbathandlineabakingsheetwithacleankitchentowel.Whenthelinksareready,transferthemtotheice-waterbathforabout20

minutes,untilwellchilled.Drainthelinks,clipthemapart,andarrangethemonthepreparedpan.Refrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto5days,orwrapcarefullyandfreezeforupto3months.

BloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandCognac

BLOODSAUSAGEWITHCARAMELIZEDAPPLESANDCOGNAC

ThesweetnessofcaramelizedapplesandslowlycookedonionscombinedwiththepunchofCognacandtheearthinessofporkandporkbloodmakeasuperblinkthatwillwinoverblood-sausageskeptics.Thepoachedlinkscanbegrilled;sautéedwithapples,potatoes,andonions;orslicedandtuckedbetweenthelayersofarootvegetablegratin.MAKES

ABOUT7½POUNDS(3.4KG)OR22TO24(6-INCH/15CM)LINKS

FORCEMEAT

2cups(225g)slicedyellowonions1tablespoonunsaltedbutter3tablespoonsplus1½teaspoons(2.1ounces/59g)fineseasalt4pounds(1.8kg)fattyporkBostonbutt,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2teaspoonspeppercorns3driedbayleaves3wholecloves

6allspiceberries2teaspoonspimentd’EspeletteGARNISH

¼cup(60ml)lardorleaflard4cups(450g)peeledanddicedtartapples1½teaspoonsfineseasalt¼cup(15g)choppedfreshthyme(stemsreserved)½cup(120ml)Cognac4cups(960ml)porkblood,wellchilled12ounces(340g)porkbackfat,cutinto¼-inch(6mm)cubesPANADE

½cup(30g)freshbreadcrumbs1cup(240ml)heavycreamCOURTBOUILLON

10quarts(9.5L)water½cup(140g)fineseasalt½yellowonion,sliced1½teaspoons

peppercorns5driedbayleavesReservedthymestems15feet(4.5m)preparedhogcasings

Tomaketheforcemeat,combinetheonionsandbutterinasautépansetoverlowheat.Seasonwith½teaspoonofthesaltandsweattheonionsslowlyforabout20minutes,untiltheyarequitetenderandtranslucent.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Placetheporkinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,

inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercorns,bay,cloves,andallspiceberriesandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowlandstirinthepimentd’Espeletteandtheremainingsalt.Mixthespicekitandcooledonionsevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Tomakethegarnish,inalargesautépan,meltthelardovermedium-high

heat.Whenitbeginstosizzle,addtheapplesandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout10minutesuntiltheyarearichgoldenbrown.Addthesaltandthymeandcookfor1minutelonger.Removefromtheheat,pourintheCognac,andstirwithawoodenspoontoloosenthefondfromthebottomofthepan.Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature.Reservethebloodandbackfatintherefrigeratoruntilneeded.Tomakethepanade,inabowl,mixtogetherthebreadcrumbsandcream.Tomakethecourtbouillon,inalargestockpot,combinethewater,salt,onion,

peppercorns,bay,andthymestems.Placeoverlowheatandheatto160°F(70°C).Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththemediumplateandgrindthemeatonce.Pourintheporkbloodfollowedbythepanadeandmixwell.Foldinthebackfatandtheappleswiththeircookingjuices.Mixthefarcebyhand,usingaquick,eggbeater-likerotatingmotion,forabout2minutes,untilitholdstogetherandtightenssomewhat.Thisfarcewillbeabitlooserthanothersausageforcemeats.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandtaste.Itshouldberich,wellseasoned,andatadspicy,withplentyofflavorfromtheappleandCognac.FollowingtheinstructionsforStuffingandLinkingSausage,stuffthefarcein

thehogcasingsandlinkintosausagesabout6inches(15cm)long,leavingthesausagesconnected.Placethelinksinthecourtbouillon.Itmaybenecessarytoadjusttheheat,asthetemperaturewilldropslightlywhenyouaddthelinksto

thepot.Poachthelinksslowlyforabout25to30minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofasausageregisters150°F(66°C).Meanwhile,preparealargeice-waterbathandlineabakingsheetwithacleankitchentowel.Whenthelinksareready,transferthemtoice-waterbathforabout20minutes,

untilwellchilled.Drainthelinks,clipthemapart,andarrangethemonthepreparedpan.Refrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateforupto5days,orwrapcarefullyandfreezeforupto2months.

Cotechino

COTECHINO

Whenwinterisintheairandtheholidaysareuponus,cotechinomakesitsseasonalappearanceonthechalkboardattheFattedCalf.AspecialtyofnorthernItaly,cotechinohasaunique,springytextureduetotheunusualadditionofcookedporkskin.Althoughthislarge,lightlyfermentedsausageisdeliciousyear-round,itistraditionallyaddedtowinterfavoritessuchasBollitoMistoorsimmeredwithlentils(aspictured)andeatenforgoodluckonNewYear’sDay.(Ifyouareservingthesausageswithlentils,addthelentilsandanyvegetablesorherbstothepotaboutmidwaythroughcooking.)Foratrulyfestiveholidayvariationontheclassiccotechino,grate1ounce(30g)freshblacktruffleandaddittothefarceaftergrinding.MAKESABOUT5POUNDS(2.3KG)

ORFIVE1-POUND(450G)SAUSAGES

1¼pounds(570g)porkskin,cutintostrips1inch(2.5cm)wide2teaspoonscorianderseeds4allspiceberries1½teaspoonsblackpeppercorns1teaspoonwhitepeppercorns4pounds(1.8kg)porkBostonbutt,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(1.4ounces/40g)fineseasalt1teaspooncuringsaltno.1

⅛teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoongroundginger¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine5feet(1.5m)preparedbeefmiddles,turnedinsideout

Bringalargestockpotfilledwithwatertoarollingboil.Addtheporkskinandcookfor10minutes.Drainandpatdrywithpapertowels,thentransfertoabowl,cover,andrefrigeratefor1hour.Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthecorianderseedsonabaking

sheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addtheallspiceandblackandwhitepeppercorns,and

grindfinely.Placetheporkinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,

inasmallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,seasalt,curingsalt,cinnamon,andgingerandmixwell.Mixthespicekitandthechilledporkskinevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththemediumplateandgrindthemeatonce.Pourinthewineandmixthefarcebyhandfor2minutes,untilitfirmsandholdstogether.Followingtheinstructionsforsalami,stuffthefarceintothebeefmiddles.Hangthesausagesinacool,dryroomfor3days,thenwraplooselyinakitchentowelandrefrigerate.Theywillkeepforupto1week.Tocookthesausages,fillalargestockpotwithlightlysaltedwaterandheatto

about165°F(74°C).Addthesausagesandsimmerfor2hours.

BELGIANBEERSAUSAGE

Arich,delicatelyhoppedBelgian-styleamberorblondealeiskeytothesuccessofthissausage.Belgian-stylebeerstendtohaveacreamymousse,almosttropicalaroma,andsubtleflavorsofginger,coriander,andcaramelthatmarrydelectablywithpork.Grillthefinishedlinksandtopwithcaramelizedonionsorbrowninbutter,thensimmerwithTraditionalSauerkrautandasplashofbeer.MAKESABOUT5POUNDS(2.3

KG),OR18TO20LINKS(7-INCH/18CM)LINKS

1½teaspoonsblackpeppercorns2teaspoonsyellowmustardseeds2teaspoonscorianderseeds3allspiceberries2tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(1.4ounces/40g)fineseasalt1teaspooncuringsaltno.1

2teaspoonslightbrownsugar½teaspoongroundmace½teaspoongroundcayenne¼teaspoongroundginger1tablespoonmincedgarlic¼teaspoonfinelychoppedorangezest3¾pounds(1.7kg)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1¼pounds(570g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1¼cups(300ml)Belgian-stylebeer,wellchilled10quarts(9.5L)waterseasonedwith½cup(140g)fineseasaltforpoaching10feet(3m)preparedhogcasings

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthepeppercorns,mustardandcorianderseeds,andallspiceonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinderandgrindfinely.Tomakethespicekit,inasmallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,sea

salt,curingsalt,brownsugar,mace,cayenne,ginger,garlic,andorangezestandmixwell.Placetheporkandfatinalargenonreactivebowl.Mixthespicekit

evenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthemeattwice.Linealargetraywithparchmentpaper.Dividethefarceintoabout1-pound(450g)portions,flatteneachportionintoapattyabout1inch(2.5cm)thick,andplacethepattiesonaparchment-linedtray.Youshouldhave5patties.Freezeforabout1hour,untilnotquitefrozenbutcrunchyattheedges.Preparetoemulsifythesausage.Refrigeratethebowlandbladeofafood

processorforatleast30minutes,orplacetheminthefreezerforatleast15minutes.Whentheyarewellchilled,affixthebowltothebaseoftheprocessorandattachtheblade.Remove1sausagepattyfromthefreezer,breakitintoroughly1-inch(2.5cm)chunks,andputtheminthefoodprocessor.Processfor3minutes,slowlypouringin¼cup(60ml)ofthebeerasthemachineisrunning.Turnofftheprocessor,scrapetheemulsifiedfarceintoalargebowl,andplacethebowlintherefrigerator.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingsausagepatties.Itisimportantthatthemeatandthemachineremainascoldaspossiblewhileyouwork,inordertoemulsifythesausageproperly.Ifthefoodprocessorbeginstofeelhot,pauseandchilleverythingagainforatleast20minutes.Whenallofthefarcehasbeenprocessed,stirtomixwell.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.FollowingtheinstructionsforStuffingandLinkingSausage,casethefarcein

thehogcasingsandlinkintosausagesabout7inches(18cm)long,leavingthelinksconnected.Thencutintobunchesof4linkseach,andhangeachbunchfromanShookintherefrigeratorovernight.Thefollowingday,fillalargestockpotwiththesaltedpoachingwater,place

overlowheatandheatto160°F(70°C).Placethe4-linkbunchesinthepoachingwater.Itmaybenecessarytoadjusttheheat,asthetemperaturewilldropslightlywhenyouaddthelinkstothepot.Poachthelinksslowlyfor15to20minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofasausageregisters140°F(60°C).Meanwhile,preparealargeice-waterbathandlineabakingsheetwithacleankitchentowel.Whenthelinksareready,transferthemtotheice-waterbathforabout20

minutes,untilwellchilled.Drainthelinks,clipthemapart,andarrangethemonthepreparedpan.Refrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto10days.

HotSmoking

Hotsmokingslowlycookssausage,imbuingitwiththeirresistibleflavorofwoodsmoke.Smokingalsohastheaddedbonusofpreservingsausagebycoveringthesurfacewithbacteriostaticandmycostaticcompoundsthatworktoinhibitthegrowthofunwantedbacteriaandmolds.Caseyourfarceinloopsorlinkinlengthsoffoursausagesandhangovernight

intherefrigeratortohelptoformapellicle.Thepellicleisthethinskinorglazeformedbydryingthatsealsthesurfaceofthesausage,helpingthesmokeadhereandkeepingtheinteriorofthesausagemoistduringsmoking.PrepareyoursmokehousefollowingtheguidelinesforHotandColdSmoking.

Whenthesmokerreachesatemperatureof170°Fto180°F(77°Cto82°C),hangthesausagesinthesmoke-filledcabinet.Spacethemevenlyabout2inches(5cm)apart,andavoidcrowdingtoallowforevensmoking.Mostsausagewilltakeaboutanhourtosmokefully.Sausagesarecookedwhenathermometerinsertedintothecenterofasausageregistersabout140°F(60°C).Ifyouplanoneatingthesausageshotfromthesmoker,theyarenowready.If

youplanonstoringthemtoeatlaterortoeatchilled,preparealargeice-waterbathandlineabakingsheetwithacleankitchentowel.Removethesausagesfromthesmokerandplacethemintheice-waterbathtostopthecookingandtohelptopreventshrinkage.Whentheyarethoroughlychilled,removethemfromtheicebath.Ifyour

sausageisinlinks,clipthemapart.Placethelinksorloopsonthepreparedpanandrefrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto10days.

Kolbász

KOLBÁSZ

Therearemanytypesofkolbász,theHungarianwordfor“sausage.”Thissmokedversionwithpaprikaistraditionallyaddedtolesco,aHungarianvegetablestewwithtomatoesandpeppers,butitisalsospectacularstraightfromthesmoker,withryebread,pickledredcabbage,andhotmustard.MAKESABOUT5½POUNDS(2.3KG)OR5OR6LOOPS

2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns1cardamompod

1tablespoondriedoregano2tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(1.4ounces/40g)fineseasalt¼cup(27g)hotHungarianpaprika1teaspoonsugar1teaspooncuringsaltno.1

¼teaspoongroundmace2tablespoonsmincedgarlic4pounds(1.8kg)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1pound(450g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1cup(240ml)icewater10feet(3m)preparedhogcasings

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthepeppercornsonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addthecardamompodandoregano,andgrindfinely.Tomakethespicekit,combinethefreshlygroundseasonings,seasalt,

paprika,sugar,curingsalt,mace,andgarlicandmixwell.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Removethemeatfrom

therefrigeratorshortlybeforeyouarereadytogrind.Separateaboutone-fourthoftheleanestpiecesofporkandsetaside.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindallofthefatandtheremainingporktwice.Whenthesecondgrindingiscomplete,stopthegrinder,switchtothelargestplate,andcoarsely

grindtheleanporkonce.Combinealloftheporkandmixwellbyhandfor2to3minutes,untilthefarcebeginstofirmupandfeelcohesive.Transferthefarcetothepreparedbakingsheetandflattenintoalargepattyabout1inch(2.5cm)thick.Freezeforabout1hour,untilnotquitefrozenbutcrunchyattheedges.Placehalfofthepartiallyfrozenmeatintothebowlofastandmixerfitted

withthepaddleattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor1minutewhileslowlyincorporatinghalfoftheicewater.Oncethewaterhasbeenabsorbed,beatonhighspeedfor1minute.Scrapethepaddledfarceintoabowlandsetaside.Repeattheprocesswiththeremaininghalfofthemeat,incorporatingtherestoftheicewater.Mixallofthemeattogetherbyhand.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Casethefarceinhogcasingsandformintoloops(seeStuffingandLinking

Sausage).HangeachloopfromanShookinacoollocationorintherefrigeratorovernight.Thefollowingday,prepareyoursmokehousefollowingtheguidelinesforHot

andColdSmoking.Whenthesmokerreachesatemperatureof180°F(82°C),cookthesausagesslowlyforabout1to1½hours,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofaloopregisters140°F(60°C).Ifyouwanttoeatthesausageshotfromthesmoker,theyarenowready.Ifyouwanttoeatthemlater,preparealargeice-waterbathandlineabakingsheetwithacleankitchentowel.Placethesausagesintheice-waterbathforabout30minutes.Whentheyarethoroughlychilled,removethemfromtheicebath,placethem

onthepreparedbakingsheet,andrefrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto10days.

HotLinks

HOTLINKS

Spicybeefhotlinks,smokedslowlyoverahardwoodfire,areaTexasbarbecuespecialty.ForatrueHillCountryexperience,smokeabrisketandafewbeefribsalongsidethesezesty,plumplinks.MAKESABOUT5

POUNDS(2.3KG)OR18TO20LINKS

2teaspoonscorianderseeds2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns3allspiceberries,ground2tablespoonsgroundchileflakes2pounds(900g)bonelessleanbeef,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2pounds(900g)bonelessporkBostonbutt,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1pound(450g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)fineseasalt1teaspooncuringsaltno.1

2teaspoonsgroundcayenne3tablespoonsmincedgarlic1cup(240ml)icewater10feet(3m)preparedhogcasings

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthecorianderseedsonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addthepeppercorns,allspice,andchileflakes,andgrindfinely.Placethebeefinanonreactivebowlorcontainer.Placetheporkandporkfat

inasecondnonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,combinethefreshlygroundspices,seasalt,curingsalt,cayenne,andgarlic.Mixalittlelessthanhalfofthespicekitwiththebeef,thenmixtheremainingspicekitwiththeporkandfat.Coverbothbowlsandrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Lineabakingsheet

withparchmentpaper.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindtheporkmixturetwice.Whenthesecondgrindingiscomplete,stopthegrinder,switchtothelargestplate,andcoarselygrindthebeefonce.Combinebeefandporkmixtureandmixwellbyhandfor2

to3minutes,untilthefarcebeginstofirmupandfeelcohesive.Transferthefarcetothepreparedbakingsheetandflattenintoalargepattyabout1inch(2.5cm)thick.Freezefor1hour,untilnotquitefrozenbutcrunchyattheedges.Meanwhile,chillthebowlandpaddleofyourstandmixerintherefrigerator.Placehalfofthepartiallyfrozenmeatintothebowlofthestandmixerfitted

withthepaddleattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2minuteswhileslowlyincorporatinghalfoftheicewater.Oncethewaterhasbeenabsorbed,beatonhighspeedfor2minutes.Scrapethepaddledfarceintoabowlandsetaside.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingmeat,incorporatingtherestoftheicewater.Mixallofthemeattogetherbyhand.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.FollowingtheinstructionsforStuffingandLinkingSausage,stuffthefarcein

thehogcasingsandlinkintosausagesabout7inches(18cm)long,leavingthelinksconnected.Thencutintobunchesof4linkseach,andhangeachbunchfromanShookinacoollocationorintherefrigeratorovernight.Thefollowingday,prepareyoursmokehousefollowingtheguidelinesforHot

andColdSmoking.Whenthesmokerreachesatemperatureof180°F(82°C),cookthesausagesforabout1to1½hours,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofalinkregisters140°F(60°C).Hotlinksenjoyedrightoutofthesmokerarearevelation.Butifyoucannoteatthemallatonce,preparealargeice-waterbathandlineabakingsheetwithacleankitchentowel.Removethesausagesfromthesmokerandplacethemintheice-waterbathforabout20minutes,untilwellchilled.Whentheyarethoroughlychilled,removethemfromtheicebath,placethem

onthepreparedbakingsheet,andrefrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thenextday,wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto2weeks.

DriedSausageandSalami

Thereisthescienceofcuring,acomplexcollaborationofnaturalprocesses—anintricatedancedoneatamicrobiallevel.Thenthereisthepassionforsalami,asecretdesiretocreateanundergroundlairstrungwithlengthsofdryingsausages,theairredolentofgarlicandamustyperfume.Somewherebetweenthescienceandthepassionliestherecipeforgreatsalami.SalamitakesitsnamefromtheancientGreektownofSalamis,which

perishedaround450BCE.Butitsstyleoffermenteddriedsausagelivedonand

spreadfromthiscoastalportacrosstheMediterranean.SalamiisthoughttohavefueledtheRomanlegions,whofurtherspreaditspopularitythroughouttheempire,whereregionalpreferencesandavailabilityofingredientsgavebirthtocountlessvariations.Goodsalamiistheresultofqualityingredients,propermethods,abeneficial

environment,alittlepatience,andadashofgoodfortune.Ittakesthetechniquesofsausagemakingandexposesthemtothemysteriesofthenaturalworldwiththehopesthatinanywherefromtwoweekstosixmonthsyouwillpossessathingofbeauty.Note:Althoughmanyculturespreparetheirowndistinctiveversionsofair-

driedsausages,theItaliantermsalamihasbeengenerallyusedasacatchallintheEnglish-speakingworld.ButinItaly,salame(salamiistheItalianplural)hasamuchmorespecificmeaningthanwhatwegenerallyascribetoitintheUnitedStates.InItaly,asalameisalargedriedcuredsausage,andavarietyofwords(suchassalamettoorsalsicciasecca)describesmallerdriedcuredsausageinporkorlambcasing.AttheFattedCalf,weusethewordsalamiwhenreferringtothegrandercategoryof“driedcuredsausages”—butwealsouseitinthemorespecific,Italiansenseoftheword(thatis,todescribelargerair-driedsausages).Forsmallerdriedcuredsausages,whichItaliansmightcallsalamettiorsalsicciasecca,weemploythetermdriedsausage.

MeatandFatThemeatmixforsalamiisgenerallyleanerthanthatforfreshorhotcookedsausage,about20percentfatto80percentlean.Mostsalamiismadefromporkoramixofporkandbeef.Porkpicnicshoulderorlegcutsoftencontainenoughintramuscularfattomakeadditionalbackfatunnecessary.Salamicanalsobemadeusingothermeats,suchaswildboar,venison,orevenduckandgoose.Foroptimalresults,usemeatthathasbeentrimmedofvisiblefatandsupplementwithporkbackfattoachievetheproperratioofmeattofat.

SeasoningandGrindingBecausedriedsausagesarefermentedandcuredratherthancooked,seasoningthemmustbedonewithprecision.Theyneedtocontainabout3percentsaltplusadditionalcuringsalt.Bothingredientsprovideseasoningaswellasinhibitthegrowthofunwantedanddangerousmicroorganisms.Curingsaltalsogivesthesesausagestheirappealingredcolor.Forbetteraccuracy,saltismeasuredbyweightratherthanvolumewhenmakingallkindsofsalami.

Spicesprovidedistinctflavorprofilesbutalsoactasantioxidantsandstimulatethegrowthof(good)lacticbacteria.Oftenamixofwholeandgroundspicesisusedformakingsalami.Herbsarealwaysusedintheirdriedformandareoftengroundalongwiththespices.Grindthemeatforsalamijustasyouwouldforfreshandcookedsausage,but

mixforabitlonger—3to4minutes.Thesalamifarceneedstobemixedwellinordertodistributeingredientsevenlyandtoeliminateairpocketsthatcancausespoilage.

BASICRECIPEFORSALAMI

4pounds(1.8kg)leanbonelessporkoramixtureofporkandbeef+1pound(450g)porkbackfat+4tablespoons(2.4ounces/68g)fineseasalt+1teaspooncuringsaltno.2

—5pounds(2.3kg)basicsalami

Casing,Linking,Looping,andTyingIngeneral,thewayyoucaseyoursalamiwillbedeterminedbythetypeofcasingyouuse.Andthesizeofthecasingyouusewillinpartdeterminehowlongyouwillageyoursalami.Smalldriedsausagesinlamborhogcasingscanbeformedintolinksjustlike

freshsausage,butyouwillwanttopackthecasingsalittlemorefullybeforehangingthemtodryinlengthsoffourtoeightlinks.Similarly,youcanusehogcasingstomakeloops.Mostdriedsausagecasedinlamborhogcasingswillbereadytoeatin2or3weeks.Allbeefcasingsarequitesturdyandmakeexcellentsalamithatcanbehung

formanymonths.Ifyouarecasinginbeefmiddles,sewnbeefmiddles,orbeefcaps,remove

yourwell-rinsed,soaked,andinvertedcasingfromthesoakingwaterandthreaditontothenozzle.Seephotos1through3forCasing,Linking,Looping,andTying.

Ifyouareusingregular,open-endedbeefmiddles,pull1inch(2.5cm)ofthecasingovertheopeningofthenozzle.Tiea6-inch(15cm)lengthoftwinearoundtheendofthecasing.Windeachendofthetwineoverthetopandtieasecondknotontheundersidetosecurethefirstknot.Createaloop1inch(2.5cm)indiameterbyknottingthetwolooseendsofthetwine(seephoto4).Youwillusethislooptohangyourfinishedsalami.Crankthehandleslowlytopressthesausagemixintothecasingtoforma12-

inch(30cm)link(seephoto5).Tiea6-inch(15cm)lengthoftwineintoaknotaroundthecasingjustbeforetheendofthestuffedcasing.Thiswillleaveasmallamountofthestuffingontheoppositesideoftheknot(seephoto6).Thisensuresthatthesalamiistightlycasedandeliminatesanairgapattheend.Thestuffingontheothersidecanbepressedawayandusedtostartthenextsalami.Windeachendofthetwineoverthetopandtieasecondknotontheundersidetosecureit.Createaloop1inch(2.5cm)indiameterbyknottingthetwolooseendsoftwine.Thissecondloopisusedasafail-safeshouldthefirstloopcomeundone.Tiea6-inch(15-cm)lengthoftwinearoundthecasingabout1inch(2.5cm)

fromtheendofthenozzletobeginyournextsalami(seephoto7).Windeachendoftwineoverthetopandtieasecondknotontheundersidetosecureit.Then,usingscissors,severthefirstsalami.Beginstuffingthenextsalamiandrepeattheprocessuntilallofthesausagemixisused.Forsewnmiddlesandcaps,theprocessissimilar,butyouwillnotneedtotie

anendknottobeginbecauseoneendisalreadyclosed.Youcanexpecttogetabouttwolargesausagesfromeachpieceofsewnmiddleorcap.

CASING,LINKING,LOOPING,ANDTYING

HangingSalamiforInitialFermentationandforDryingTherawsausagebecomes“cured”orfinishedbyundergoingaprocessoffermentationspawnedbymicroorganismsthatacidulatethesausage,thatis,loweritspH.Fermentationandcuringarenotexactsciences.Temperature,humidity,andotherenvironmentalfactorswillaffecttheoutcome.Afteryoursalamiiscased,youwillneedtohangitforaperiodduringwhich

thefermentationwillbegin.Warmandhumidconditionstendtoencouragethegrowthofthebacterianecessaryforfermentation.Ideally,agoodspottohangsalamihasnosunlightandaconsistenttemperatureof65°Fto75°F(18°Cto24°C).Mostdriedsausagesneedtohangfor3to5days,dependingonthesize,ingredients,andtheconditionsofthespace(lesstimeinwarmer,damperspaces;moretimeincooler,drierspaces).Ifyouhaveahydrometer,aniftydevicethatmeasuresthehumidity,youarelookingtoachievealevelofabout70percent.Ifyouliveinanareawithverylowlevelsofhumidity,considerusingastandardhomehumidifiertoimproveconditions.Iftheconditionsaregood,awhitishbloomshouldappearontheoutsideofthecasingin2or3days.Thisisthesignthatfermentationhasstarted.Ifyoudonotseeabloom,orifthesalamistartstoappearwrinkledinthefirst

dayortwo,theenvironmentismostlikelytoodry.Lightlymistthesalamiwithwateronceortwiceduringtheinitialfermentationperiod.Fordriedsausagesinbeefcasings,adailymistingisusuallyagoodideaeveniftheenvironmentalconditionsaregood.Checkdriedsausagesinlamborhogcasingsafter3days.Theircolorshould

beabrightrosytoreddishhue,dependingonthespicesused,andtheyshouldhaveapleasingodor.Iftheyaretouchingoneanother,anexcessofwhitemoldmayform,andyouwillneedtogentlyturnorseparatethemtoimproveairflow.Hangthematroomtemperatureorabitcoolertofinishdrying.Forsalamiinbeefcasings,checkafter3or4days.Onceahealthywhitebloomofmoldappearsonthesalami,youwillwanttomoveitintoacoolerarea,50°Cto60°F(10°Cto16°C)foragingfrom2to6months.Allowingandcultivatingmoldtogrowonourfoodseemstocounterwhatwe

havecometobelieveisgoodandsafe,butthemoldsonsalamiworkmainlyontheoutside,creatingabarrierthathelpstoprotectthemagainstharmfulpathogensduringthedryingprocess.

PRESSINGLARGESALAMI

Ifyouwantlargesalamiwithaveryfirmtexture,pressingaftertheinitialfermentationcanhelp.Topress,simplylaythesausagesonatraylinedwithparchmentpaper.Layanotherpieceofparchmentoverthesausages,thenplaceanothertrayontopofthat.Weightthetoptraywithsomethingdenseandheavythatwon’tslideoff(brickswrappedinplasticwrap,fulloliveoilcans,orotherrectangularweightsaregoodoptions).Distributetheweightevenlyandpressforaweek,thenhangtocure.

DryingandAgingThedryingandagingprocessisdeterminedbytheclimateofthecuringenvironmentandthesizeandstyleofthecasing.Afterfermentation,thesausagehastobedried.Thischangesthecasingsfrombeingwaterpermeabletobeingreasonablyairtight,andtheprocessistypicallyoneofsometrialanderror.

Unlessyouareacommercialsalamimanufacturerwithahighlycontrolledartificialenvironmentinwhichyoucaneasilyregulateandmonitortemperatureandhumidity,itisunlikelythatyouwillachieve“perfect”conditions.Focuslessonwhatyoucannotachieveandmoreonwhatyouhavetoworkwith.Folksweremakingsalamilongbeforetheadventofrefrigeration,humidifiers,dehumidifiers,andthelike,soitcanbedone.Fromdraftyuninsulatedatticstocoolbasements,fromwinecellarstoair-conditionedclosets,peoplehavefoundwaystomakeitwork.Thesmallerthecasing,thelessexacttheconditionsneedtobe.Dried

sausagesinsmallerhogorlambcasingsdrymorequicklyandarelesssubjecttoenvironmentalfluctuations.Ifyouaremakingsalamiforthefirsttimeorattemptingtomakesalamiinanewlocation,makeasmallbatchofdriedsausageinlamborhogcasingstotestouttheconditionsofyourspace.Howquicklytheydry,whetherornotthemoldformsorhowfastitformscanclueyouinontherelativefeasibility.Largersalamiinbeefcasingsrequirealittlemoreworkandcare.Theyare

ideallyagedaround50°F(10°C),butitismoreimportantthatyouachieveaconsistenttemperaturethananexactone.Youcanagesalamiattemperaturesaslowas40°F(4°C)andashighas60°F(16°C),butlargefluctuationsintemperaturecanbedetrimentaltothecuringprocess.

Bacteria:TheGood,theBad,theCommercialMakingsalamiisnotunlikemakingcheese.Duringthefermentationprocess,bacteriadigestsugars(naturallyoccurringsugarsfromthemeatplusanyaddedsugars)andproducelacticacid.LacticacidlowersthepHandmakesthemeataninhospitableenvironmentforunwantedbacteria.Thelacticacidalsoimpartsthattangyflavorgenerallyassociatedwithsalami.Somepeopleliketouseacommercialstartercultureorbacteriatohelpto

promotethefermentationprocessandensureahigherrateofsuccess.Commercialstartersproduceahighlyconsistentproductbutalsohaveatendencytoaltertheflavorofthesalami,makingitverytangyandmaskingsomeofthenuancesoftheflavorsofthemeatandspices.Youcanmakesalamiwithoutacommercialstarter.Traditionallymadesalami

dependonwildstrainsofbacteriausuallyrelatedtoLactobacilliplantarum.Thesearethenaturalflorapresentallaroundus.Harnessingthemcanbealittletricky,butwefindthattheflavortheygivesalamiisfarsuperiortowhatispossiblewithcommercialstartercultures.Addingasmallamountofwineto

yoursalamirecipeisanothernaturalwaytohelptostartthefermentation.Youmayoccasionallyfindyourselfwithabadstrainofbacteria.White,gray,

green,andevenbluemoldsarehealthfulandbeneficial,butifyoursalamiisproducingreddishorblackmold,don’ttakeanychances.Discardit.

FinishingAlthoughsomeindicatorscanhelptodeterminethereadinessofyoursalami,intruthyoursalamiisdonewhenyoudecideitisdone.Manykindsofsalamicanbeenjoyedatvariousstagesofripeness,fromveryyoungandsoft(thestyleknowninItalianasmorbido,enjoyedinmanypartsofthecountry)toveryfirmanddry.Adrysalamiwillloseabout30percentofitsoriginalweightandshouldyieldslightlybutfeelfirmwhenpressedwithyourfingertips.Whenyouharvestyoursalami,wipeoffanyexcessmoldandpeelawaythecasingbeforeslicing.(Notethatyoudonotneedtopeelawaythecasingfromdriedsausageinhogorlambcasings.)Whenyousliceintoafinishedsalami,itshouldlookbrightlycoloredandsmellirresistible.

CACCIATORINI

Cacciatoriare“hunters”inItalian,andcacciatoriniarethelittledriedsausagesthathunterscanstasheasilyintheirpocketsforimmediatesustenanceduringtheirlongtreksthroughthewoods.Cacciatoriniaregreatfuntomakeandaperfectstartingpointifyouarejustbeginningtolearntomakesalami.MAKESABOUT3POUNDS(1.4KG)OR20(5-INCH/13

CM)LINKS

1teaspoonaniseeds1tablespoonblackpeppercorns5pounds(2.3kg)bonelessleanporkfromshoulderorleg,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes3tablespoonsplus1½teaspoons(2.1ounces/59g)fineseasalt1teaspooncuringsaltno.2

1½tablespoonswholechileflakes1tablespoonfinelymincedgarlic½cup(120ml)redwine10feet(3m)preparedhogcasings

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadtheaniseedsonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addthepeppercorns,andgrindfinely.Placethemeatinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,

inasmallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,seasalt,curingsalt,chileflakes,andgarlic.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthemeatonce.Pourinthewineandmixwellbyhandfor3to4minutes,untilthemeatisveryfirmandallofthewineisincorporatedFollowingtheinstructionsforStuffingandLinkingSausage,stuffthefarcetightlyinthehogcasingsandlinkintosausages5inches(12cm)long,leavingthesausagesconnected.Separateeachlinkfromthenextbytyingoffthelinkswithtwine,thencutinto

lengthsof3links.Hanginasuitablelocationatorjustbelowroomtemperature(65°Fto70°F/18°Cto21°Cisoptimal)for12to14days,untilfirmenoughtoslice.Thefinishedcacciatorinicanbestoredinacool,dryspotforseveralmonths,tobeenjoyedonlongwalksthroughthewoodsandotheradventures.

SAUCISSESECAUXHERBESDEPROVENCE

Theseskinnydriedsausagesseasonedwithaprofusionofherbsareredolentofasummerymeadow.Theymakeagreatadditiontoapicnicbasket.MAKESABOUT24(7½-INCH/19CM)LINKS

5poundsbonelessleanporkshoulderorleg,cutinto1-inch(2.5-cm)cubes1tablespoonHerbesdeProvence

1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspoonwhitepeppercorns2tablespoonsplus2teaspoons(1.6ounces/46g)seasalt1teaspooncuringsaltno.2

1teaspoonfennelpollenortoastedandfinelygroundfennelseeds1tablespoonfinelymincedgarlic¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine20feet(6m)preparedlambcasings,22to24mmindiameter

Placethemeatinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,inaspicegrinder,combinetheherbesdeProvenceandtheblackandwhitepeppercornsandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addtheseasalt,curingsalt,fennel,andgarlic,andmixwell.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthemeatonce.Pourinthewineandmixbyhandforabout3to4minutes,untilthemeatisveryfirmandallofthewineisabsorbed.FollowingtheinstructionsforStuffingandLinkingSausage,stuffthefarce

tightlyinthelambcasingsandlinkintosausages7½inches(19cm)long,separatingeachlinkwithapieceoftwine.Cutintolengthsof6links.Hanginasuitablelocationatorjustbelowroomtemperature(65°Fto70°F/18°Cto21°C

isoptimal),using1-inch(2.5-cm)Shooksplacedbetweenthesecondandthirdlinksandthefourthandfifthlinks.Makesurenoneofthelinksistouchinganotherlink.Thesausageswilldryin1to2weeks,dependingontheambienttemperature.Theyarereadywhentheyarefirmenoughtoslice.Thefinishedsausagescanbestoredinacool,dryspotfor6weeks.

PEPPERONI

Thisspicy,robustsalamiwillmakeyourethinkpepperoni.Whileitcertainlycanbestrewnatoppizzaornibbledwitholivesandcheese,youcanalsoaddittoasaladofshavedfennelandarugulaorsautéitwiththinlyslicedbroccolirabe.MAKESABOUT7POUNDS(3.2KG)OR10TO12

(10-INCH/25CM)SAUSAGES

1½teaspoonsfennelseeds½teaspoonaniseeds1teaspoonpeppercorns8allspiceberries10pounds(4.5kg)bonelessbeefchuckabout80percentleanmeatand20percentfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes4.8ounces(152g)fineseasalt2teaspoonscuringsaltno.2

2tablespoonsgroundcayenne3tablespoonsunsmokedSpanishpaprika3clovesgarlic,poundedtoapasteinamortarwith½teaspoonfineseasalt¼cup(60ml)dryredwine10feet(3m)preparedbeefmiddlesorsewnbeefmiddles,rinsedandturnedinsideout

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Spreadthefennelseedsandaniseedsonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addthepeppercornsandallspice,andgrindfinely.Placethebeefinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,

inasmallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,theseasalt,curingsalt,cayenne,paprika,andgarlicandmixwell.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindthemeattwice.Pourinthewineandmixwellbyhandfor4to5minutes,untilthe

meatisveryfirmandallofthewineiswellincorporated.FollowingtheinstructionsforCasing,Linking,Looping,andTying,stuffthe

farceinthebeefcasingsandlinkintosausagesabout10inches(25cm)long,separatingeachlinkasitiscased.Hanginasuitablelocationwithatemperatureof65°Fto70°F(18°Fto21°F)for3to4days,untilthesalamihasturnedadeepredandshowsthebeginningsofawhitebloomonthecasing.Thenmovetoacoolerlocation(50°F/10°Cwouldbeoptimal)andhangfor3to4months,oruntilfirmenoughtosliceeasilywithachef’sknife.Oncefullycured,thesecanbestoredrefrigeratedforupto1yearbutareattheirbestinthefirst3months.Toserve,wipeawayanyexcessmoldwithadryclothortowel.Ifyouwillbe

usingonlypartofasausage,usingasharpknife,scorethecasingarounditscircumferencepartwayfromtheend,thenpeelawaythecasingfromtheareatobesliced.

SBRICIOLONA

Sbriciolona,atypeofItalianfennelsalami,canbelooselytranslatedas“crumblything.”Thisfull-flavoredsalamiismadewithfinelygroundandcoarselygroundpork,whichyieldauniquetexture.Traditionally,itisnotpressedandiseatenwhenitisstillquiteyoungandsoft,butitisequallygoodagedlongeruntilfirm.MAKESABOUT7POUNDS(3.2KG)OR

2LARGESALAMI

10pounds(4.5kg)bonelessporkpicnicorlegmeatcutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes4.8ounces(152g)fineseasalt2teaspoonscuringsaltno.2

⅛teaspoongroundmace2teaspoonswholechileflakes2teaspoonsgroundchileflakes1tablespoonfennelpollen5clovesgarlic,poundedtoapasteinamortarwith1teaspoonfineseasalt½cup(120ml)dryredwine2preparedbeefcaps,turnedinsideout

Placetheporkinalargenonreactivebowlorcontainer.Tomakethespicekit,inasmallbowl,combinetheseasalt,curingsalt,mace,wholeandgroundchileflakes,fennelpollen,andgarlicandmixwell.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat(seeBasicSausageMethod),cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Refrigeratethepartsofyourgrinderuntilreadytouse.Followingthe

instructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindhalfofthemeatonce.Stopthegrinder,switchtothelargestplate,andgrindtheremainingporkonce.Combinebothbatchesofpork,pourinthewine,andmixbyhandforabout4minutes,untilyoucanpickupmostofthemixwithbothhandswithoutitfallingapart.FollowingtheinstructionsforCasing,Linking,Looping,andTying,casethe

farceinthebeefcaps,makingsuretherearenoairholes,thentrusstightlywithtwineasyouwouldaroast(seeHowtoTieaRoast).Hangthesausagesina

suitablelocationat65°Fto75°F(18°Cto21°C)for4days,untiltheyhaveturnedarosyhue,andideallyhavealittlebitofawhitebloomofmold.Thenmovetoacoolerlocation(50°F/10°Cwouldbeoptimal)andhangforabout4months,untilthedesiredfirmnesshasbeenachieved.Thesesalamiwillholdforupto10monthsbutarebestwithinthefirst4monthsafterthey’refinishedcuring.Toserve,wipeawayanyexcessmoldwithadryclothortowel.Ifyouwillbe

usingonlypartofasausage,usingasharpknife,scorethecasingarounditscircumferencepartwayfromtheend,thenpeelawaythecasingfromtheareatobesliced.StorepartiallycutSbriciolonarefrigerated,withthecutendlooselywrappedinparchmentpaper.

P

6

PÂTÉS:POTTEDMEATS,TERRINES&

LOAVES

âtés,whichincludepottedmeats,terrines,andloaves,arequintessentialmembersofthecharcutier’srepertoire.TheysparkleenticinglyfromshopwindowsinParis,providethedeliciousmakingsforapicnic,andsummonyoutothetabletoenjoyaleisurelymeal.Thesesavoryandaddictivemeatygoodsrunthegamutfromthehauteandtheelegant,suchastheseductiveDuckLiverMousse,totherusticandtheeveryday,suchasthehumbleAmerican-styleMeatLoaf.Theyembraceawiderangeoftechniquesaswell,fromthesurprisinglysimplesalt“cooked”FoieGrasTorchontothechallengingfour-day,multiprocessedHeadcheese.Inotherwords,everycuriouscookandcharcuteriedevotee,fromnovicetomaster,willfindsomethingtopursueinthischapter.

ToolsoftheTrade

Therecipesinthischapterrequirelittlespecialequipment.Agrinderishandyforsomepreparationsbutnotessentialforall.Formakingterrinesandloaves,aclassic,1½-quart(1.4L)rectangularterrinemoldmadeofenameledcastiron

withatightfittinglidissturdy,attractive,ensuresevencooking,andwilllastformanyyears.Butifyoudon’thaveaterrine,abreadpanorsmallbakingdishwilldoinapinch.Atamis,ordrumsieve,isthekeytoavelvety-texturedmousse,butafine-meshsievewillwork.Forpottedmeats,ramekins,canningjars,crocks,andlocking-lidjarsarealluseful,butonecanoftenbesubstitutedfortheother.

PottedMeats

Pottedmeatsareasimpletypeofpâtémadeofcookedmeatsthathavebeenshreddedorchoppedandboundwitheitherfatoragelatinouscookingbrothandthensetinacrockforservingorkeeping.Thenotionofpottedmeatsseemssomewhatantiquated,buttheyarehandytoserveforhorsd’oeuvresforthebusy,modern-dayhost.Theycanbemadeahead,thensealedandstoredforweeksormonths,sothatthenexttimeunexpectedguestsdropin,youcanjustreachintoyourlarderforthemakingsofafabulouscanapéorfirstcourse.Therecipesthatfollowaredividedintotwocategories:pottedmeatsbound

withfat,andpottedmeatsboundwithrichbroth.

PottedMeatsBoundwithFat

Rillettesandotherpottedmeatsboundwithfataredeliciouspreparationsthatcanbemadeeasilyifyouhaveconfitsonhandandareworththeeffortevenifyoudon’t.Simplyseasonthemeat,cookitlongandslowinitsownfatorinanotherlipidofyourchoosing,andthenshredandbinditwithsomeofitscookingjuicesandfat.Packthemixtureintoapotorterrinewhileitisstillwarm,andcoveritwithalayeroffat,whichwillhardenasitcoolstoformanairtightsealthatprotectsthemeat,allowingittoripenandkeeplonger.Nearlyanytypeofmeatcanbepreparedandpreservedusingthismethod.

Pork,duck,andgoosearethemostcommon,butrabbit,chicken,turkey,orotherfowlworksbeautifully,aswell.Seasonthemeatadayaheadasyouwouldformakingaconfitandcookitthefollowingday,againasyouwouldaconfit:slowandlowandcompletelysubmergedinfat.Ifyouarecookingonthestovetop,yourpotshouldneverquitereachasimmer.Ifusingtheoven,atemperature

around250°F(120°C)willdothetrick.Continuecookingpastthepointyouwouldforaconfit,untilthemeatslipseasilyfromthebone,orinthecaseofbonelessmeat,untilyoucanpullitapartwithalmostnoeffort.Oncethemeatiscooked,allowittorestinthefatfor20to30minutes,until

coolenoughtohandle.Separatethemeatfromitscookingliquidandtransfertoalarge,shallowbowl.Pourthecookingliquidintoatall,clearcontainertocool.Thefatwillseparatefromthegelée,therichmeatyjuicesthataccumulateduringthecookingprocess.Ladlethefatoffintoanothercontainer,andsetthefatandgeléeasideseparatelywhileyoushredorchopthemeat.Inmostcases,thebesttextureisachievedifyoushredbyhand,althoughthere

aretimeswhenacoarsertexturemaybedesired,inwhichcaseyoumaywanttochopthemeatwithaknife.Avoidusingafoodprocessor,asitisalltooeasytooverworkyourmeatandwindupwithanunattractivepaste.Themeatshouldbetenderandshredeasily.Discardanybones,skin,gristle,orcartilage.Whenthemeatisuniformlyshreddedtoyourliking,foldinabouthalfofthegeléeandsomeofthefatbyhand.Howmuchfatandliquidyouaddwilldependonthetypeofmeat,thewatercontentofthefat,andahostofotherfactors,includingyourownpreferences.

TASTINGFORSEASONING

Whensamplingcharcuteriebeforecooking,itisimportanttotasteitatthetemperatureatwhichitwillbeserved.Coldfoodneedstobemorehighlyseasoned,whereasfoodthatwillbeservedhotneedslessseasoning.

Workingfat-boundmeatsisalittlelikeworkingbreaddough.Theactionofyourhandshelpstomakeacohesivemeatmass.Incorporatingthefatslowlygivesthemeattimetoabsorbitandwillresultinacreamiertexture.Useyourfingerslikethetinesofaforktoworkinthefat.Trynottomashthemeat;theresultingmixtureshouldfeellightandlooseratherthanpasty.Whenthemixturefeelssilkyandasthoughitcannotholdanymorefat,pauseforabit.Ifthemixturedriesoutonthesurfaceandedgesafterafewminutes,consideradding

morefat.Butifsmallpoolsoffatbegintoformonthesurface,youhavereachedthepointofperfection.Addfreshlychoppedherbssuchasthyme,oregano,chives,flat-leafparsley,

orrosemaryalongwithwine,brandy,orotherflavorings.Nowtasteforseasoning.Fat-boundpottedmeatsareusuallyservedsomewhatcool.Coolertemperaturesmutetheflavors,soyouwillwantittotastehighlyseasonedwhileitisstillwarm.Ifitneedsalittleswagger,youcanaddmoreofthegelée,apinchmoreoftheseasoningspices,ormoresalt.Traditionally,pottedmeatsboundwithfatweresealedunderalayeroftheir

cookingfatforlongerkeeping.Althoughyoucaneatthemrightaway,sealingandstoringthemallowsthemtoripensomewhatanddevelopflavor.Packorpotthemeatsintoclean,glassjarswithlids(locking-lidglassjarsareperfectforthistask)oraceramiccrockorterrinewithafittedlid,pressingthemeatinasyougotoeliminateanyairpockets.Chillfor1hourintherefrigerator,thenpourroom-temperaturecookingfatontop,creatingalayer½inch(12mm)thick.Coverandrefrigerate.Afterafewhours,checkthefatseal.Fatwillsometimescontinuetoseepintothemeatasitsettles.Ifanyofthemeatispokinguporvisiblethroughthefat,pouranotherthinlayerofliquidfatontop.Wellsealedandrefrigerated,pottedmeatswillkeepintherefrigeratorforseveralmonths.Toserve,removethejarorcrockfromtherefrigeratorandallowittowarmto

roomtemperature.Thetoplayeroffatcanbescrapedoffandreusedtoresealanyleftovers,repurposedforcooking,or,inaclassicallydecadentfashion,stirredintothemeatandsavored.

VARIATIONSONPOTTEDMEATSBOUNDWITHFAT

Onceyoulearnthebasicmethodformakingpottedmeatsboundwithfat,youcantrymakingoneofthesetastyvariations.

DuckRillettes:Makewithwholeduckorducklegssimmeredinrenderedduckfatandseasonedwithquatreépices,thyme,anddrysherry.

GuineaHenRillettes:Makewithwholeguineahenorguineahenlegssimmeredinrenderedduckorchicken

fatandseasonedwithfreshsummersavory,whitewine,androastedpeppercorns.

GooseRilletteswithBlackTruffle:Simmergooselegsandwingjointsinrenderedgoosefatorduckfatandseasonwithcrushedgarlic,Cognac,andgratedfreshblacktruffle.Garnishindividualcrockswithashavingofblacktruffle.

SmokedPottedPork:Useacombinationofslabbaconandbonelessporkshouldersimmeredinlardandfinishwithasplashofbourbon.

RABBITRILLETTES

Formostpottedmeatsboundwithfat,suchasthosemadewithporkorpoultry,weprefertocookmeatonthebone—butrabbitisfulloftinybonesthatcanbeeasytooverlookwhenyouareshreddingthemeat.Forthisrecipe,bonetherabbitandsavethecarcassformakingaflavorfulbroth.MAKES6TO8CUPS(1.4TO2L)

1rabbit,3to4pounds(1.4to1.8kg)1teaspoonpeppercorns3allspiceberries1wholeclove

1juniperberry2tablespoons(1.2ounces/34g)fineseasalt2

clovesgarlic,smashed1driedbayleaf¼cup(60ml)Madeira8cups(2L)rendered

duckfatorlard,oracombination¼cup(15g)finelychoppedfreshsage

Removetheheart,liver,andkidneysfromtherabbitandreserveforMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmonds.FollowingtheinstructionsforBonedRabbit,bonealloftherabbitexceptfortheforelegsandplacethemeatandforelegsinabowl.Inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercorns,allspice,clove,andjuniperand

grindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addthesalt,garlic,bay,andMadeira,andstirtomix.Addthespicemixturetotherabbitandmixtocoatevenly.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Placetherabbitinatall,narrow

ovenproofpotandcoverwiththefat.Warmoverlowheatonthestovetopforabout10minutes,untilthefathasjustmelted,thentransferthepottotheoventocookslowlyfor2to3hours,stirringgentlyevery30minutes.Totestfordoneness,removeoneoftherabbitforelegsandpullsomeofthemeatfromthebone.Itshouldyieldcompletely,leavingthebonefairlyclean.Onceyouhavedeterminedthemeatisdone,removethepotfromtheoven,pullthemeatofftheotherforeleg,discardthebones,andreturnallofthemeattothepot.

Letthemeatcoolforabout20minutes,thenusingaslottedspoon,transfertherabbitmeattoabowl.Strainthefatthroughafine-meshsieveintoatall,clearcontainer.Letstandforabout20minutes,untilthefatseparatesfromthegelée.Ladleoffthefatintoitsowncontainer,andsetthegeléeandfatasideseparately.Shredthemeatbyhand,thenworkinthegeléeandthefat,about½cup(120

ml)atatime,alternatingbetweengeléeandfatwitheachaddition.Whentherillettesfeelcreamy,loose,andcannotabsorbanymoreofthefat(lookforsmallpoolsoffatonthesurfaceofthemeat),testforseasoning.Refrigerateasampleoftherillettesfor15minutes.Evaluatethetasteandtextureandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Iftherillettesseemgrainyordry,addmorefat.Foldthesageintotherillettes.Packorpottherillettesintocleanglassjars,ceramiccrocks,oraterrine,

leavinga½-inch(12mm)headspace.Chillfor1hourintherefrigerator,thenpoursomeoftheroom-temperaturecookingfatontop,creatingalayer½inch(12mm)thick.After1hour,checkthefatsealfollowingtheinstructions,thencoverandrefrigerate.Iftherillettesarewellsealed,theywillkeepwellforseveralmonths.The

flavorwillactuallyimproveafterthefirstweek.Anyextracookingfatcanbestrainedandrefrigeratedforseveralmonthstobereusedforanotherbatchofrillettesorotherlow-temperaturecooking,suchasconfits.

CICCIOLI

CiccioliisatraditionalItalianpreparationconcoctedfromallofthepiggybits,scrapsofmeat,fat,andskin,leftoverfromhogbutchering.Butthereislittleconsensusastothemethodandseasoningusedtoprepareciccioli,andthereseemtobeasmanyrecipesforciccioliastherearepicturesque,pork-adoringvillagesinItaly.Thisversionisaspicy,chunky,yetspreadablepâtépreparedsimilarlytorillettesbutwithacoarsertextureandtheaddedbenefitofporkcrackling.Anyleftoverspicylardcanbereusedseveraltimesandisgreatforcooking.TryusingitinplaceofregularlardforadevilishversionoftheChicken-FriedQuail.MAKESABOUT8CUPS(2L)

3½pounds(1.6kg)bonelessskin-onporkshoulder,inasinglepiece1tablespoonplus2teaspoons(1.2ounces/34g)fineseasalt1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoonwholechileflakes1headgarlic,clovesseparated,peeled,andcrushed12cups(2.8L)lard2teaspoonsfinelygroundchileflakes¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine

Skintheporkshoulder(seeSkinningthePig)andsetasidethemeat.Usingthetipofasharpknifeandalighttouch,scorethesurfaceoftheskin,makingstraight,linesspacedabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Cuttheshouldermeatinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubesandplaceinalargebowl.

Seasonwiththesalt,pepper,wholechileflakes,andgarlic,coatingthemeatevenly.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Thenextday,preheattheovento400°F(200°C).Outfitaroastingpanwitha

rack.Inalarge,heavybraiser,meltthelardoverlowheat.Rubtheskinofthe

shoulderwith1teaspoonofthemeltedlardandsettheskin,fatsidedown,ontherackandplaceintheoven.Cookforabout30minutes,untiltheskinturnsgoldenbrown.Turndowntheoventemperatureto275°F(135°C)andcontinue

cookingfor1to1½hourslonger,untilcrispandbrittle.Removefromtheovenandletcool.Pouranyaccumulatedfatfromtheroastingpanintothepotoflard.Addtheseasonedporkshoulderanditsmarinadetothepotofmeltedfatand

placeoververylowheat.Cookforabout3hours,makingsurethepotneverreachesasimmer.Themeatisreadywhenitcanbespliteasilywithafork.Removethepotfromtheheatandletrestfor20minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthemeattoalargebowl.Strainthefatthrough

afine-meshsieveintoatall,clearcontainer.Remarryanysolidscaughtinthesieve,suchasspicesorbitsofmeatorgarlic,withthepork.Letthefatstandforabout20minutes,untilthefatseparatesfromthegelée,thenladleoffthefatintoitsowncontainerandsetthegeléeandfatasideseparately.Pour½cup(120ml)ofthefatand½cup(120ml)ofthegeléeintothebowl

ofpork.Coarselyshredthemeatbyhandwhileworkingintheliquid,thenmixinthegroundchileflakesandwine.Breakthecookedskinintoroughly½-inch(12mm)pieces,eitherbyhandorwithaknife,andfoldintotheshreddedpork.Thenaddanother½cup(120ml)ofthefatand½cup(120ml)ofthegelée.Refrigerateasampleofthemixturefor15minutes.Evaluatethetasteandtextureandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Ifthemixtureseemsgrainyordry,addmorefat.Packorpotthemixtureintocleanglassjars,ceramiccrocks,oraterrine,

leavinga½-inch(12mm)spacebetweenthetopofthemeatandthelipofthevessel.Chillfor1hourintherefrigerator,thenpoursomeoftheroom-temperaturecookingfatontop,creatingalayer½inch(12mm)thick.After1hour,checkthefatsealfollowingtheinstructionsthencoverandrefrigerate.Iftheciccioliiswellsealed,itwillstaygoodforseveralmonths.Theflavor

willactuallyimproveafterthefirstweek.Anyextracookingfatcanbestrainedandrefrigeratedforseveralmonthstobereusedforanotherbatchofciccioliorrepurposedforcooking.

PottedMeatsBoundwithRichBroth

Pottedmeatsboundwithrichbrotharearatherdifferentconcoction,moreakintoadelicious,richmeatybraiseeatencold.Althoughtheseasoning,slowcooking,shredding,andpottingprocessissimilartopottedmeatsboundwithfat,thesepottedmeatsdrawtheirsoulpowerfromtheirflavorful,gelatinouscookingliquid.Theseasonedmeatiscookeduntilverytender,thenshreddedor

chopped,boundwithbroth,packedinaterrine,andchilledtosolidifyresultinginamosaicofmeatandseasoningssuspendedinaflavorful,naturalgelatin.Forthebestpottedmeatsboundwithbroth,choosestewingorbraisingcuts

fromflavorful,well-developedmuscles,preferablyonthebone.Nearlyanymeatcanbepreparedinthisfashion,butthosetougher,boniercutsthatcontainthemostgelatin,suchasbeef,veal,lamb,orporkshanks,shoulders,heads,andcheeks,willyieldthebestresults.Theadditionofasplitpigtrotterorcalffootwillgivethecookingliquoratremendousamountofnaturalgelatinthatwillactasabinder.Seasonyourmeataheadasyouwouldforabraise.Briningthemeatsin

advanceofcookingissometimesrecommendedforparticularlydenseorbonycuts,suchasporktrottersorhead.Simmerthemeatsgentlyinaflavorfulmeatbrothwitharomaticsuntilverytenderoruntilthemeatslipseasilyfromthebone.Allowthemeatstocooltoroomtemperatureintheircookingliquid.Drainthemeats,reservingtheliquor,andtransferthemeatstoalarge,shallowbowl.Discardanybonesandaromatics.Returnthebraisingliquortoasaucepanandreducebyabouthalf.Testthe

potencyofthegelatinintheliquidbyladlingliquortoadepthof½inch(12mm)intoaramekinorshallowbowl,thenplaceintherefrigeratorforabout20minutes.Ifitisfirmwhenchilled,thentheliquorhasadequategelatin.Ifitisstillliquidorholdstogetherloosely,continuetoreducetheliquortoconcentratethegelatin.Besuretotasteasitreduces,asthesaltsandseasoningswillconcentrateastheliquidevaporates.Ifitbeginstoseemoverlyseasoned,stopreducingregardlessoftheresultsofthegelatintest.Itisbettertohavealooselyboundpottedmeatthananoverlysaltedone.Allowthefinishedliquortocooltoroomtemperature.(Note:Somecooksliketoaddcommercialgelatinasaninsurancepolicyorshortcut.Commercialgelatin,oftenofdubiousorigins,isgenerallyunnecessaryforpottedmeats,providingyouuseasufficientamountofmeatandgoodbrothandtakethetimetoreducethecookingliquor.)Whenitiscoolenoughtohandle,shredorchopthemeat,discardinganybone,skin,orsinew.Addanyherbsand/orgarnishes.Ladleinsmallamountsofthebraisingliquortomoistenandmixgentlybyhand.Youneedtoaddjustenoughliquidtobindthemeat.Refrigerate1tablespoonofthemixturefor30minutes.Evaluatethecohesivenessandthetasteandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Potyourmeatinglassjars,crocks,orterrines.Ifyouplanonturningoutyour

pottedmeat(thatis,notservingitinthevesselitwasstoredin),youwillwanttolinetheterrineorothervesselwithplasticwrap,allowingittooverhangthe

sidesbyatleast2inches(5cm).Ifyouwillbeservingyourpottedmeatenterrine,youcanskipthisstep.Eitherway,ladleasmallamountofthecookingliquidintotheterrineorothervessel,enoughtocoatthebottomtoadepthofabout½inch(12mm).Youwillneedabout½cup(120ml).Followwithalayerofroughlyhalfofthemeat.Pressthemeatdowngently.Coverwithalittlemoreliquid(againabout½cup/120ml),followedbytheremainderofthemeat.Pressgentlyagain,andthentopwithalittlemoreliquidtocover(about1cup/240ml).Youwillrarelyneedallofthecookingliquidtosetyourpottedmeat,andtheremaindercanbesavedformakingsoupsorsauces.Coverthevessel(ifyouhavelinedtheterrinewithplasticwrap,bringtheoverhanguptocover)andrefrigerateovernighttosetthepottedmeatbeforeserving.Toturnoutaterrine,removeitfromtherefrigeratorandinvertitontoa

cuttingboard,thencarefullyliftoffthevessel.(Donotbringthepottedmeattoroomtemperaturebeforeyouunmoldit.)Carefullypeelawaytheplasticwrap,thenslicethepottedmeat.Ifyouwillbeservingthesliceslater,transferthemtoabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaperandreturntotherefrigeratoruntilservingtime.Ifyouareservingthepottedmeatenterrine,justinsertaspoonandenjoy.

VARIATIONSONPOTTEDMEATSBOUNDWITH

RICHBROTH

JambonPersillé:AParisianclassic!Simmerawholebrinedham,1yellowonion,andafewsplitpigtrottersuntilquitetender.Shredthemeatandseasonwithchoppedcapers,cornichons,tarragon,andshallots;asplashofwhitewinevinegarorchampagnevinegar;andlotsofchoppedfreshparsley,biensur!

PorkCheekTerrine:Brownporkcheeksandthenbraiseinarichporkbrothseasonedwithchileflakes,mincedyellowonion,choppedgarlic,andfreshrosemary,savory,andthyme.Leavethecheekswhole,settheminarectangularterrine,chill,andslicetoserve.

OXTAILTERRINE

Thebony,crosscutqueuedeboeuf(Frenchfor“oxtail”)isteemingwithearthyflavorandwithgelatin,whichisthekeytothesuccessofthisterrine.Topsliceswithastrongmustard-capersauceandservealongsideahandfulofspicycress.MAKES6TO8CUPS(1.4TO2L)ORONE3-POUND

(1.4KG)TERRINE

5pounds(2.3kg)oxtails,cutcrosswiseintopieces2inches(5cm)thickFineseasalt

2tablespoonslard2cups(480ml)dryredwine2cups(480g)wholecannedtomatoeswiththeirjuice1pigtrotter,split1yellowonion,quartered2carrots,peeledandslicedonthediagonal1inch(2.5cm)thick5clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole1driedbayleaf

½teaspoonpeppercorns1teaspoonpimentd’Espelette½cup(30g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Rinsetheoxtailsundercoolrunningwaterandpatdry.Placeinalargebowlandseasonliberallywithsalt.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Thenextday,inalarge,heavysautépan,meltthelardovermedium-high

heat.Addtheoxtailsinasingle,uncrowdedlayerandbrownwellonallsides.Usingaslottedspoon,transfertheoxtailstoalargebraiser.Pourthewineintothesautépananddeglazeovermediumheat,stirringwithawoodenspoontoloosenthefondfromthebottomofthepan.Pourthewineovertheoxtails,thenaddthetomatoes,pig’sfoot,onion,carrots,garlic,bayleaf,andpeppercorns.Addwaterjusttocovertheoxtailsand1teaspoonsaltandbringtoaboil.Lowertheheattoalazysimmerandskimoffanyparticulatesthatrisetothesurface.Continuetosimmer,uncovered,for3hours.Whenboththeoxtailsandthefootarefork-tender,usingaslottedspoon,

transferthemtoaplatter.Lineacolanderwithcheesecloth(oruseachinoisor

otherfine-meshsieve)andstrainthebroththroughthecolanderintoastockpot.Placethepotovermediumheatandcookuntilreducedbyaboutone-fourth.Ladlethebrothtoadepthof½inch(12mm)intoaramekinandrefrigerateforabout20minutes.Ifitisfirmandgelatinouswhenchilled,itisready.Ifitisstillatouchrunny,reducefurtherandtestagain.Tasteforseasoningandadjustifnecessary.Pullallofthemeatoffoftheoxtailsandthefoot,discardingtheskinand

bones.Tossthemeatwiththepimentd’Espeletteandparsley.FollowingtheinstructionsforPottedMeatsBoundwithRichBroth,potthe

meatinglassjars,crocks,oraterrine,liningtheterrinewithplasticwrapifyouplanonturningoutthepottedmeattoserve,thenrefrigerateandserveasdirected.

Headcheese

HEADCHEESE

Admittedly,headcheeseisnotforeveryone.Butitdoeshaveitsdevotees,andweseemoreandmorepeopleconvertedallthetime.AttheFattedCalf,wemakeabatchofheadcheeseaboutonceeverysixweeks,andwhenitisgone,itisgoneuntilwehaveamassedenoughporkheadstomakeanotherbatch.Theheadcheesefanaticstendtopineloudlyinitsabsence.Headcheese,thoughnotdifficult,isatime-consuminglaboroflove.Thisversiontakesfourdaysfromstarttofinish.Onthefirstday,youmakebrinefortheheads,thenyoubrinetheheadsthefollowingday.Thisisfollowedbyadayofcooking,chopping,andsettingtheterrine.Theterrinechillsovernightuntilfinallyyoumakeawish,turnoutyourterrine,andifthestarshavealigned,youhaveamosaicofheadmeatofyourownmakingthatslicesbeautifully—untilitisgone.Servewithbaguette,cornichons,olives,andmustard,orofferaspartofasaladcoursewithspicycressdressedwithapungentvinaigrette.MAKES

ABOUT3QUARTS(2.8L)ORTWO3-POUND(1.4KG)TERRINES

HEADBRINE

1tablespoonpeppercorns1tablespoonfennelseeds1juniperberry

1driedbayleaf1pound(450g)fineseasalt12ounces(340g)

sugar7quarts(6.6L)boilingwater2teaspoonscuringsaltno.1

MEATS

1skin-onpighead,splitorquarteredandbrainremoved3pigtrotters,split2pounds(900g)bone-in,skin-onporkshoulder,inasinglepieceGARNISH

1tablespoonfennelpollen2teaspoonschileflakes1teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper⅛teaspoongroundmaceGratedzestand

juiceof1lemon¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine¼cup(15g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Onday1,makethebrine.Placethepeppercorns,fennelseeds,juniperberry,andbayleafonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakeasachet(oruseamuslinbag).Measuretheseasaltandsugarintoa5-gallon(19L)nonreactivebucketandtossinthesachet.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Letcooltoroomtemperatureovernight.Onday2,stirthecuringsaltintothebrine.Addthehead,trotters,and

shouldertothebrineandtopthemwithaplatetokeepthemsubmerged.Refrigeratefor24hours.Onday3,drainthemeatsintoalargecolander,discardingthebrineand

sachet.Rinsethemeatslightlyundercoolrunningwaterandpatdry,thenputtheminatall,narrowpot.Addwatertocover,placeoverhighheat,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheattoalivelysimmerandskimanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurface.Cook,uncovered,for3hours,thenchecktheheadfortenderness.Themeatshouldbegintopullawayfromtheboneandtheearsshouldbesoftened.Carefullyremovethemeatstoatraytocool.Lineacolanderwithcheesecloth

(oruseachinoisorotherfine-meshsieve)andstrainthebroththroughthecolanderintoastockpot.Placethepotovermediumheatandcookuntilreducedbyabouthalf.Ladlethebrothtoadepthof½inch(12mm)intoaramekinandrefrigerateforabout20minutes.Ifitisfirmandgelatinouswhenchilled,itisready.Ifitisstillatouchrunny,reducefurtherandtestagain.Tasteforseasoningandadjustifnecessary.Pullthemeatfromthebonesoftheheadandtrotters.Discardthebones.Slice

theearsandthetrotterskinintostrips¼inch(6mm)wide.Tearthecheekmeatbyhandintopiecesofroughlythesamesize,andcutalloftheremainingheadmeatandtheporkshoulderinto½-inch(12mm)cubes.Placeallofthemeatinalargebowlandaddthefennelpollen,chileflakes,pepper,mace,lemonzestandjuice,wine,andparsley.Mixgingerlytoincorporatethegarnish.FollowingtheinstructionsforPottedMeatsBoundwithRichBroth,potthe

meatinglassjars,crocks,or2terrines,liningtheterrineswithplasticwrapifyouplanonturningoutthepottedmeattoserve,thenrefrigerateovernight.Onday4,serveasdirected.

BakedTerrinesandLoaves

Aterrineisatypeofpâtéorforcemeatthatisbakedinamold,alsocalledaterrine.Aloafisaforcemeatthatismoundedandshapedbyhandandbakeduncoveredtoformacrust.Botharemadewithseasonedmeatsthataregroundandmixedwithabindertohelpretaintheirshape,andbothareusuallygarnishedwithherbs,vegetables,orotherraworcookedmeatsbeforetheyarebakedinalowoven.Theonlydifferenceisthedishoritsabsence.Terrinesandloavescanbemadefrommostanymeatorpoultrybutgenerally

containsomeporktohelptoimprovethetextureandfatcontent.Ideally,aloaforterrinecontainsabout30percentfat.Manytraditionalterrinesandloavescontainorganmeatssuchasliverorgizzard,inadditiontomeatandfat,butitisacommonmisconceptionthattheyalwayscontaintheseoraremainlycomprisedofthem.Ifyoudon’tcarefororganmeats,youneednotaddthem.Butifyoucanobtaingood-qualityfreshorganmeats,weurgeyoutotrycookingwiththem,astheyaddasubtledepthtotheflavorofmanypreparations.Marinatethemeatsadayaheadasyouwouldformostsausage.Priorto

grindingthemeat,prepareanygarnituretoaddafterthemeatisground.Confitofduckgizzard,olives,brandiedfruits,poachedtongues,dicedliver,braisedshallots,choppedherbs,cookedmushrooms,stripsofleanmeat,andthelikeallmakeattractiveand(delicious)garnishes.Grindthemeatasyouwouldforsausage.Rusticcountry-styleterrinesand

loavesareusuallygroundonlyonce.Butforfiner,lighter-texturedterrines,youcangrindthemeattwice.Afterthemeatisground,foldinyourpanadeorotherbinderaswellasanygarnishtobeincorporated.Insomecases,thegarnishisartfullyarrangedtocreateamosaicineachslice.Reservethesegarnishesuntiltheterrineisassembled.Ifyouaremakingameatloaforrusticpâtéloafthatyouwillshapebyhand,

lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper,mixthemeatwell,transferittothepreparedbakingsheet,andmoldintothedesiredshape.Smooththeedgeswithyourhandstocreateaseamless,uniformsurfacetopreventcrackingduringbaking.Refrigeratetheloafforatleast30minutesbeforebakingtohelptopreventfatlossduringcooking.Whentheloafischilled,removetheparchment-linedpanfromtherefrigeratorandplacedirectlyinapreheated300°F(150°C)oven.Bakeuntilathermometerinsertedintothecenteroftheloafregisters140°F(60°C).Loavescanbeservedwarm,roomtemperature,orchilledasdesired,alwaysallowingtheloaftorestforatleast10minutesbeforeslicing.

Ifthepâtéistobecookedenterrine,youwillneedtolinetheterrine(seeFourWaystoLineaTerrine)beforeyouaddtheforcemeat.Liningthevesselallowsforeasyunmoldingoncetheterrineiscooked.Addyourmeatinincrementstothelinedterrine,pressingfirmlyaftereachaddition.Ifyouarearranginggarnishintheterrine,placeitbetweenlayersofmeatordownthecenteroftheterrine.Packthefarcetothelipoftheterrine,andfoldovertheexcessliningtocoverthemeat.Ifyouhaveanyexposedmeatcutanextrapieceofwhateverliningyouareusingoralittlebackfatforapatchjob.Ifyouwindupwithtoomuchlining,trimitwithscissorstominimizeoverlap.Keepinmindalittleoverlapisfine,astheliningwillrecedeslightlyduringcooking.Lidtheterrine.

BakingandUnmoldingBakingaterrineinawaterbathhelpstoensureevencooking.Foldakitchentowelinhalfandplaceinthebottomofaroastingpantoactasabuffer.Placetheloadedterrineontop.Poursimmeringwaterintothepantoreachone-thirdofthewayupthesidesoftheterrine.Carefullyplacetheroastingpaninapreheated300°F(150°C)oven.Ifyourterrinehasasmallholeinitslid,makesurethesidewiththeholeisplacedclosesttotheovendoortosimplifytakingthetemperatureoftheterrineduringcooking.Cooktoaninternaltemperatureof140°F(60°C).Gentlylifttheterrinefromthewaterbathandletcooltoroomtemperaturebeforerefrigerating.Pressingisatechniquethatissometimesusedtocompresstheterrinesothatit

canbeslicedthinlywithoutcrumbling,thoughitisusuallynotnecessaryiftheterrineispackedcarefullypriortobaking.Itispreferabletoavoidpressing,however,becausepressingaterrineleachesoutthedeliciouscookingjuicesthathelptokeepitmoist.Ifyouneedtopressaterrine,youmustuseaweightthatisfittedtoyourterrinemold.Ablockofwoodcuttosizeandwrappedinplasticwrapworkswell.Placetheblockdirectlyontopofthestill-warmterrineandthenplacethelidontopoftheblock.Tounmoldyourchilledterrine,uncoverandplacetheterrineinahot-water

bathforabout30secondstomeltthefatgentlyontheexteriorandloosenthesidesandbottomfromthevessel.Removefromthewaterbathandinvertontoacuttingboard.Iftheterrinedoesnotslipeasilyfromthemold,turnitupright,loosenitgentlyoneitherendwitharubberspatula,andtheninvertagain.Sliceasmuchoftheterrineasyouplanonserving.Theterrinelining,whether

itiscaulfat,belly,backfat,orskin,iscompletelyedible.

Ifyoudon’tplanonservingtheterrinerightaway,youcanstoreitrefrigeratedinitsmoldforaboutaweek.Ifyouplanonkeepingyourterrinelonger,youcancapitwithduckorporkfat,muchlikeaconfit(seeBasicConfitMaking).Beforecappingit,removeanygeléethathasformedinthebottomoronthesidesoftheterrine.

FOURWAYSTOLINEATERRINE

Caulfat:Versatilecaulfatisthesimplestwaytolineaterrineandcanbecuttofitanysizemold.Itisthinandtransparent,providingapeekatthemeatwithin,yetsturdy.Layalargepieceinyourterrine,allowingittooverhangthesidesbyabout3inches(7.5cm).

Backfat:Stripsofthinlyslicedbackfatmakesanimpressive-lookingall-whiteliningforaterrine.Slicethebackfatonameatslicer,thenlayerinsidetheterrine,slightlyoverlappingeachslice.

Belly:Porkbellyorthinlyslicedbaconmakesaflavorful,streakyliningforaterrine.Whenusingbacon,keepinmindthatitwilladdtotheseasoningoftheterrine.Besuretooverlaptheslices,asthereisasmallamountofshrinkageduringcooking.

Duckskin:Ifyouareusingawholeducktomaketheforcemeat,youcanusetheskintolinetheterrine.YouwillneedtofollowtheinstructionsforWholeBonedBird,thenseparatethemeatandskinwithouttearingtheskin.Withaknife,scrapeawayanyexcessfatorglandsthatareattachedtotheskin.Laythesheetofskinintheterrine,pressingitintothecorners.

Fromfront:belly,caulfat,backfat,duckskin

MeatLoaf

MEATLOAF

ThisclassicAmericanpâtéisshapedintoalargeovalloafandglazedwithtangycocktailsauce.Athicksliceofthismeatloafovercreamymashedpotatoesisathingofbeauty.Anyleftoversmakeexcellentsandwicheswithwhole-grainmustardandPickledRedOnionRings.MAKESONE3½-POUND(1.6KG)LOAF;SERVES6TO8

FORCEMEAT

¾teaspoonpeppercorns2allspiceberries2teaspoonsfennelseeds1teaspoonchileflakes1wholeclove

1¼pounds(570g)bonelessleanbeeffromeyeofroundorsirloin,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1pound(450g)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes4ounces(115g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1tablespoonfineseasalt2teaspoonschoppedgarlic4ounces(115g)bacon,choppedPANADE

2cups(300g)dicedyellowonion2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter¼teaspoonfineseasalt6tablespoons(22g)freshbreadcrumbs1egg,lightlybeaten½cup(120g)ketchup1½teaspoonsTabascosauce1¼teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce1teaspoongratedfreshhorseradish¼cup(15g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonschoppedfreshoregano1tablespoonchoppedfreshsage1tablespoonchoppedfreshthymeCOCKTAILSAUCE

¼cup(60g)ketchup¼teaspoonfineseasalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1½teaspoonsgratedhorseradish½teaspoon

Worcestershiresauce½teaspoonTabascosauce

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Tomaketheforcemeat,spreadthepeppercornsandallspiceonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely.Toastthefennelseedsthesameway,thenletcoolcompletely.Reservehalfofthetoastedfennelseedsandhalfofthechileflakes.Inaspicegrinder,combinetheremainingchileflakesandfennelseeds,thetoastedpeppercornsandallspice,andthecloveandgrindfinely.Placethebeef,pork,andfatinalargenonreactivebowl.Tomakethespice

kit,inasmallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,thesalt,andthegarlicandstirwell.Mixthespicekitevenlywiththemeat,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Reservethebaconintherefrigerator.Tomakethepanade,combinetheonionsandbutterinasautépansetoverlow

heat.Seasonwiththesaltandsweattheonionsslowlyforabout20minutes,untiltheyaretenderandtranslucent.Transfertoabowlandletcooltoroomtemperature.Addthebreadcrumbs,egg,ketchup,Tabasco,Worcestershiresauce,parsley,oregano,sage,andthymetotheonionandmixwell.(Thepanadecanbemadeadayaheadandrefrigeratedorjustpriortogrindingthemeat.)Tomakethecocktailsauce,inasmallbowl,combinetheketchup,salt,pepper,horseradish,Worcestershiresauce,andTabascoandmixwell.(Thesaucecanbemadeadayaheadandrefrigeratedorjustpriortogrinding.)Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Followingtheinstructionsfor

grinding,fitthegrinderwiththelargestplateandgrindthebacononce.Stopthegrinder,switchtothemediumplate,andgrindthebeefandporkonce.Mixthegroundbaconintothegroundbeefandpork.Pourthepanadeoverthemeatandmixbyhandfor2to3minutes,untilthefarcecomestogetherinacohesivemass.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépanandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Transferthefarcetothepreparedbakingsheet.Usingyourhands,moldintoa

long,evenloafabout2½inches(6cm)talland7½inches(19cm)wide.Smoothoveranycrackssothatthesurfaceappearsrelativelyuniform.Iftheloafseemsatallcrumbly,returnittothebowltokneadfurtherandthenreshape.Smallcrackswillbecomebiggerduringcooking,makingtheloafunattractiveandhardtoslice,soitisimportanttomakesurethatitisfirmlyheldtogetheratthispoint.Usingtheedgeofaspatulaorthebackofachef’sknife,scorethetopofthe

loafinadiamondpattern:Facingtheloaflengthwise,turnyourspatulaorknifeata45-degreeangleandmakeacut⅛inch(3mm)deepfromtheleftsideallthewaytotherightside.Repeatat1-inch(2.5cm)intervals,thenreverseandscoreintheoppositedirection.Bakefor15minutes,thenrotatethepan180degreestoensureevencooking.

Checkthetemperatureafteranother10minutes.Whenathermometerinsertedintothecenteroftheloafregisters100°F(38°C),removetheloaffromtheovenandspreadthecocktailsauceevenlyoverthetopandsideswithaspoon.Returntheloaftotheovenandcontinuebakingfor10to15minutes,untiltheloafreachesaninternaltemperatureof140°F(60°C).Lettheloafrestforatleast10minutesbeforeslicing.Wrappedtightlyand

refrigerated,theloafwillkeepfor3to4days.

FORAGER’STERRINE

Foragingforwildmushroomsisafavoritepastime,especiallyinwinter,whentheNorthernCaliforniacoastalwoodlandsareflushwithgoldenchanterelles,blacktrumpets,yellowfeet,andhedgehogs,whichcanallfindtheirwayintothisbacon-fleckedterrine.Themushroomduxellesusedtoflavorandgarnishthisterrinecanbemadewithwhateverwildmushroomsareavailable.Whilefreshwildmushroomsarepreferred,driedporciniormorelsworkwell,too.MAKESONE3-POUND(1.4KG)

TERRINE

FORCEMEAT

5shallots,finelyminced2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter6ounces(170g)porkliver,trimmedandcutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2cups(480ml)wholemilk1¾pounds(800g)bonelessporkshoulder,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes14ounces(400g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes½teaspoonpeppercorns¼teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1driedbayleaf

2allspiceberries1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsfineseasalt¼teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoonpimentd’Espeletteorgroundcayenne⅛teaspoonfreshlygratednutmegPANADE

½cup(120ml)meatbroth,anykind(seeBasicRichBroth)½cup(120ml)heavycream½cup(30g)freshbreadcrumbsGARNISH

1cup(163g)TheCharcutier’sWildMushroomDuxelles

2tablespoonsMadeira1cup(140g)finelydicedbacon,homemadeorstore-bought2

tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme,plus3sprigs2tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonschoppedfreshsage,plus3wholeleaves1piececaulfatorslicedporkfatback,about8by20inches(20by50cm)

Tomaketheforcemeat,combinetheshallotsandbutterinasautépansetoverlowheatandsweatslowlyforabout20minutes,untiltenderandtranslucent.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoroomtemperature.Inabowl,combinetheliverandthemilk,immersingtheliverfully.Cover

andrefrigerate.Placetheporkandbackfatinalargenonreactivebowl.Tomakethespicekit,

inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercorns,mustardseeds,bay,andallspiceandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addthesalt,ginger,pimentd’Espelette,andnutmeg.Mixtheshallotsandthespicekitwiththemeat,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Tomakethepanade,inasmallbowl,combinethebroth,cream,andbread

crumbsandmixwell.Setaside.Draintheporkliver,discardingthemilk,andaddtothemarinatedmeatalong

with¼cup(41g)ofthemushroomduxelles.Followtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplateandgrindfinelytwice.FoldthepanadeandMadeirainthegroundmeatuntilfullyincorporated,thenaddtheremainingduxelles,bacon,andthechoppedthyme,parsley,andsage.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépan,thenchillthesample,tasteforseasonings,andadjustifnecessary.Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Bringakettlefilledwithwatertoa

simmer.Lineaterrinewiththecaulfat.Arrangethesageleavesandthymesprigsalongthecenteroftheterrineandthenfilltheterrinewiththefarce.Packthefarcewell,tampingdownaftereachaddition,andthentappingtheterrineagainsttheworksurfacetoreleaseanyairpockets.Thefarceshouldbelevelwiththelipoftheterrine.Foldtheexcesscaulfatoverthetop;trimanyoverlapandlidtheterrine.Foldakitchentowelinhalfandplaceinthebottomofaroastingpanlarge

enoughtoaccommodatetheterrine.Settheloadedterrineonthetowel.Pourthesimmeringwaterintotheroastingpantoreachone-thirdofthewayupthesidesoftheterrine.Carefullyplaceintheovenandbakeforabout1hour,untila

thermometerinsertedintothecenteroftheterrineregisters140°F(60°C).Removetheroastingpanfromtheovenandgentlylifttheterrinefromthewaterbath.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateovernight.Tounmoldtheterrine,uncoverandplacetheterrineinahot-waterbathfor

about30secondstomeltthefatgentlyontheexteriorandloosenthebottomandsidesfromthemold.Removefromthewaterbath,invertontoacuttingboard,andliftoffthemold.Sliceasmuchasyouplanonserving,thenwraptheremainderwellandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

SpicedLambTerrine

SPICEDLAMBTERRINE

Lambaficionadosdelightinthisboldlyspicedterrinewithchunksofpoachedlambtongueandwholecorianderseeds.ServeslicesoftheterrinewithgrilledflatbreadandquincechutneyaspartofaNorthAfrican–inspiredmeal.MAKESONE3-POUND(1.4KG)TERRINE

FORCEMEAT

1½teaspoonspeppercorns2teaspoonscuminseeds2allspiceberries2driedbayleaves2pounds(900g)bonelessleanlambshank,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1pound(450g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes2tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(1.4ounces/40g)fineseasalt½teaspooncuringsaltno.1

2tablespoonscrusheddriedAleppopepper1tablespoonfinelychoppedgarlicBRINEDTONGUES

1tablespoonpeppercorns1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds3allspiceberries2bayleaves

1cup(270g)fineseasalt½cup(100g)sugar4quarts(3.8L)boilingwater6lambtonguesor4porktonguesTONGUEPOACHINGLIQUID

8cups(2L)lamborothermeatbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)1cup(240ml)drywhitewine3clovesgarlic,smashed1staranise,toasted

2driedcayennechiles1pieceorangepeel,about2by1inch(5by2.5cm)1tablespoonfineseasaltPANADE

¼cup(60ml)strainedtonguepoachingliquid½cup(120ml)heavycream¼cup(15g)

freshbreadcrumbsGARNISHReserveddicedtongues2tablespoons

corianderseeds,toastedandlightlycrushed2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshoregano1tablespooncrusheddriedAleppopepper2pounds(900g)porkbackfat,slicedintothin1-inch(2.5cm)widestrips,8to10inches(20to25cm)long,or1piececaulfat,about8by20inches(20by50cm)

Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Tomaketheforcemeat,spreadthepeppercorns,cumin,andallspiceonabakingsheetandtoastfor3to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoaspicegrinder,addthebay,andgrindfinely.Placethelambandfatinalargenonreactivebowl.Tomakethespicekit,ina

smallbowl,combinethefreshlygroundspices,seasalt,curingsalt,Aleppopepper,andgarlicandmixwell.Mixthespicekitwiththemeat,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Tomakethebrineforthetongues,placethepeppercorns,mustardseeds,

allspice,andbayonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakeasachet(oruseamuslinbag).Measurethesaltandsugarintoalargecontainerandtossinthesachet.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenaddthetonguesandtopwithaplateorotherweighttokeepthemsubmergedandrefrigerate.Ifusinglambtongues,leavethemtobrinefor12hours.Forporktongues,leavethemtobrinefor24hours.Tomakethepoachingliquid,inalargesaucepan,combinethebroth,wine,

garlic,staranise,chiles,orangepeel,andsaltandbringtoasimmeroverlowheat.Cookforabout30minutestoallowtheflavorstomeld.Removethetonguesfromthebrineanddiscardthebrine.Rinsethetongues

brieflyundercoldrunningwater,thenaddtothesimmeringpoachingliquid.Cookuntiltender,about40minutesforlambtonguesand1¼hoursforporktongues.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthetonguestoaplatetocool.Strainthe

poachingliquid,reservingenoughforthepanade.Whenthetongueshavecooled,cuttheminto¼-inch(6mm)cubes.

Tomakethepanade,inabowl,combinethepoachingliquid,cream,andcrumbsandmixwell.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplate

andgrindtheseasonedlambandfatonce.Foldinthepanadeandgrindagain.Addthecubedtongues,coriander,parsley,andoreganoandmixwellbyhandfor2to3minutes,untilthefarcepullstogether.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépan,thenchillthesample,tasteforseasonings,andadjustifnecessary.Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Bringakettlefilledwithwatertoa

simmer.SprinkletheAleppopepperevenlyoverthebackfat(orcaulfat,ifusing),thenlineaterrinewiththefatsothatthepepper-coveredsideispressedagainsttheterrine.Filltheterrinewiththefarce.Packthefarcewell,tampingdownaftereachadditionandthentappingtheterrineagainsttheworksurfacetoreleaseanyairpockets.Foldtheexcessbackfatoverthetop;trimanyoverlapandlidtheterrine.Foldakitchentowelinhalfandplaceinthebottomofaroastingpanlarge

enoughtoaccommodatetheterrine.Settheloadedterrineonthetowel.Pourthesimmeringwaterintotheroastingpantoreachone-thirdofthewayupthesidesoftheterrine.Carefullyplaceintheovenandbakeforabout1hour,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenteroftheterrineregisters140°F(60°C).Removetheroastingpanfromtheovenandgentlylifttheterrineoutofthewaterbath.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateovernight.Tounmoldtheterrine,uncoverandplacetheterrineinahot-waterbathfor

about30secondstomeltthefatgentlyontheexteriorandloosenthebottomandsidesfromthemold.Removefromthewaterbath,invertontoacuttingboard,andliftoffthemold.Sliceasmuchasyouplanonserving,thenwraptheremainderwellandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

DuckTerrinewithBrandiedPrunes

DUCKTERRINEWITHBRANDIEDPRUNES

AttheFattedCalf,wepreservebothfreshanddriedfruitsinbrandy.Theymakeexcellentaccompanimentstoroastedandcuredmeatsandaredelectableembellishmentsforsavoryterrines.Brandiedprunes,laiddownthecenterofthisduckterrine,areasvisuallydramaticastheyaredelicious.Servewholeslicesofthisterrinewithitselegantprunegarnishalongsideatenderfriséesaladoratopwarmslicesofbrioche.MAKES

ONE3-POUND(1.4KG)TERRINE

FORCEMEAT

1½pounds(680g)boneless,skinlessduckmeat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes12ounces(340g)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes8ounces(225g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1teaspoonblackpeppercorns½teaspoonwhitepeppercorns2allspiceberries1wholeclove

1smalldriedbayleaf1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsfineseasalt¼teaspoongroundginger½teaspoonpimentd’Espelette¼teaspooncuringsaltno.1

PANADE

¼cup(60ml)duckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)¼cup(60ml)brandiedprunesliquor½cup(120ml)heavycream¼cup(15g)freshbreadcrumbsGARNISH

2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme2tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley12brandiedprunes(seeDriedFruitin

Brandy)1piececaulfat,about8by20inches(20by50cm),or1duckskin(seeFourWaystoLineaTerrine)

Tomaketheforcemeat,placetheduck,pork,andfatinalargenonreactivebowl.Tomakethespicekit,inaspicegrinder,combinetheblackandwhitepeppercorns,allspice,clove,andbayandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addthesalt,ginger,pimentd’Espelette,andcuringsalt,andmixwell.Mixthespicekitwiththemeat,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Tomakethepanade,inasmallbowl,combinethebroth,liquor,cream,and

breadcrumbsandmixwell.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplate

andgrindthemeatonce.Foldinthepanadeandgrindagain.Addtheparsleyandthymeandmixbyhandfor2to3minutes,untilthefarcepullstogether.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépan,thenchillthesample,tasteforseasonings,andadjustifnecessary.Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Bringakettlefilledwithwatertoa

simmer.Lineaterrinewiththebackfat.Packhalfthefarceintothebottomoftheterrine.Laytheprunesinalinelengthwisedownthecenter,makingsuretherearenogapsbetweenthem.Packtheotherhalfofthefarceontopoftheprunes.Thefarceshouldbelevelwiththelipoftheterrine.Foldtheexcesscaulfatorduckskinoverthetop;trimanyoverlapandlidtheterrine.Foldakitchentowelinhalfandplaceinthebottomofaroastingpanlarge

enoughtoaccommodatetheterrine.Settheterrineonthetowel.Pourthesimmeringwaterintotheroastingpantoreachone-thirdofthewayupthesidesoftheterrine.Carefullyplaceintheovenandbakeforabout1hour,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenteroftheterrineregisters140°F(60°C).Removetheroastingpanfromtheovenandgentlylifttheterrineoutofthewaterbath.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateovernight.Tounmoldtheterrine,uncoverandplacetheterrineinahot-waterbathfor

about30secondstomeltthefatgentlyontheexteriorandloosenthebottomandsidesfromthemold.Removefromthewaterbath,invertontoacuttingboard,andliftoffthemold.Sliceasmuchasyouplanonserving,thenwraptheremainderwellandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

Galantines

NothingharksbacktothegoodolddaysoftraditionalFrenchhautecuisinequitelikeagalantine.Abirdisbonedandstuffedwithaforcemeatadornedwithsliversoffreshblacktruffleorstuddedwithnutsorfruit.Thewholethingisrolledandtied,thenpoachedandchilledinitscookingliquid,slicedandservedcoldalongsidealittlesaladoraspartofanassiettedecharcuterieatthestartofameal.Trèsclassique!ThewordgalantineisthoughttocomefromtheoldFrenchwordforchicken,

geline;hence,galantinesareprimarilymadefrompoultry.Chicken,guineahen,duck,pheasant,andothergamebirdscanallbeusedtomakeelegantandimpressivegalantines.Tobegin,allofthebonesarecarefullyremovedwithoutmakinganytearsintheskin(seeWholeBonedBird).Next,aflavorfulbrothismadefromthebonesthatwillbeusedtocookthegalantinelater.Forsomegalantines,youwillleavesomeorallofthemeatattachedtotheskin;forothers,themeatwillbecomepartofthestuffing,orforcemeat.Anymeatseparatedfromtheskinisusuallycombinedwithporkorothermeatsandmarinatedovernightasyouwouldforsausageoraterrine.Thenextday,themeatisgroundtoproduceaforcemeat.Theliversandgizzardscanbegroundalongwiththemeatorsavedandusedasagarnish.Theforcemeatisstuffedintotheskin,thewholepackageisshapedintoacylinderandtiedorrolledincheesecloth,andthenthegalantineissubmergedinliquidandslowlypoacheduntilitreachesaninternaltemperatureofabout145°F(63°C).Finally,thegalantineischilledinitspoachingliquidtohelpittoabsorbmoreflavorfromtheliquidandtokeepitmoistandsucculent.Toservethegalantine,itisremovedfromitspoachingliquid.Ifyoulike,you

canreducethepoachingliquidanduseittoglazethegalantine.Slicethe

galantineintoroundsandserve.

VealandChickenGalantine

VEALANDCHICKENGALANTINE

Thisgalantine,studdedwithgreenolivesandseasonedwithfreshherbs,makesanimpressivefirstcourseorluncheondish.Althoughitspreparationislabor-intensive,thegalantinewillkeepforupto4daysintherefrigerator,sofeelfreetocookitinadvanceofserving.MAKESONE

3½-POUND(1.6KG)GALANTINE

FORCEMEAT

1chicken,4to5pounds(1.8to2.3kg)12ounces(340g)porkbackfat8ounces(225g)leanvealmeatfromlegorshoulder4ounces(115g)pancetta,homemadeorstore-bought1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds,toasted

¾teaspoonblackpeppercorns¼teaspoonwhitepeppercorns1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsfineseasalt¼teaspooncuringsaltno.1

⅛teaspoongroundmace½teaspoongroundcayennePOACHINGLIQUID

Bonesfromthechicken,plus2pounds(900g)additionalchickenbonesandfeet½cup(120ml)brandy1driedbayleaf

1tablespoonfineseasaltPANADE¼cup(60ml)drywhitewine¼cup(60ml)

heavycream¼cup(15g)freshbreadcrumbsGARNISH

½cup(70g)pittedandslicedpicholineorCastelvetranoolives¼cup(15g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme

FollowtheinstructionsforWholeBonedBird.Oncethemeatiscompletelyoffthebone,trimanyglandsorbloodvesselsoffofthemeat.Carefullyremovethemeatfromtheskin,againmakingsuretoavoidpuncturingholesintheskin.Wraptheskininplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Weigh1½pounds(680g)ofthechickenmeatforthegalantineandsaveany

extraforanotheruse.Cutthechicken,fat,veal,andpancettainto1-inch(2.5cm)cubesandplaceinalargenonreactivebowl.Tomakethespicekit,inaspicegrinder,combinethemustardseedsandthe

blackandwhitepeppercornsandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addtheseasalt,curingsalt,mace,andcayenne,andmixwell.Mixthespicekitwiththemeats,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Tomakethepoachingliquid,chopthebonesandmakeasimplebonebroth

(seeBasicRichBroth).Strainthebrothandrefrigerateovernight,uncovered.Thefollowingday,removeanysolidifiedfatfromthetopofthebroth,thenbringthebrothtoasimmerinanarrow,tallpot.Measuretheliquidandreduceifnecessarytoyield3quarts(2.8L).Addthebrandy,bay,andsaltandtasteforseasonings.Itshouldbeveryflavorfulandwellseasoned.Setliquidasideuntilyouarereadytopoachthegalantine.Tomakethepanade,inasmallbowl,combinethewine,cream,andcrumbs

andmixwell.Assemblethegarnishingredients.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplate

andgrindthemeatsonce.Foldinthepanadeandthegarnishandmixbyhandfor2to3minutes,untilthefarceholdstogetherandthegarnishisevenlydistributed.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépan,thenchillthesample,tasteforseasonings,andadjustifnecessary.Spreadtheskinoutonacuttingboard,withthelongestedgeclosesttoyou.

Laythefarcelengthwisedownthemiddleandmoldintoacylinder.Foldthelongestedgeoftheskinoverthefarceandrollthecylinderawayfromyoutocovercompletely.Patandpressthecylindertoreleaseanyairpocketsandcreatearelativelyuniformshape.Tucktheopenendsneatlyunderneath.Wrapsnuglyinseverallayersofcheeseclothandsecureeachendtightlywithbutcher’stwine.Returnthepotholdingthepoachingliquidtothestovetopandheatto160°F

(70°C).Carefullyslipthegalantineintotheliquidandpoachgentlyoververylowheat,turningthegalantineoccasionallyandspooningtheliquidoverittoensureevencooking,forabout1¼hoursuntilathermometerinsertedintothecenterregisters145°F(63°C).Removethepotfromthestoveandallowthegalantinetocoolatroom

temperatureinitspoachingliquidforabout30minutes.Placeaplateontopofthegalantinetokeepitsubmergedintheliquidinthepot,thenrefrigeratethepotovernight.Thefollowingday,removethegalantinefromthepotandunwrapfromthe

cheesecloth.Sliceintorounds½inch(12mm)thicktoserve.Sliceasmuchasyouplanonserving,thenwraptheremainderwellandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto4days.

COUFARCI

ThisdishisaholidayspecialtyintheGasconyregionofFranceandattheFattedCalf.CouistheFrenchwordfor“neck”andfarcimeans“stuffed.”Inthisrecipe,theforcemeatofporkandvealisstuddedwithbraisedchestnutsandchunksofcuredfoiegras,stuffedintogooseorducknecks,andpoachedinaseasonedbroth.MAKES4STUFFEDDUCK

NECKSOR2STUFFEDGOOSENECKS;SERVES8ASASTARTER

FORCEMEAT

1¼pounds(570g)bonelessvealshoulder,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes12ounces(340g)bonelessporkpicnic,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes8ounces(225g)porkbackfat,cutinto1-inch(2.5cm)cubes1teaspooncorianderseeds,toasted1teaspoonwhitepeppercorns¾teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1wholeclove

⅛teaspoongroundmace⅛teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1allspiceberry

¾teaspoondriedthyme1tablespoonfineseasaltGARNISH

1cuppeeledchestnuts,freshorfrozen2cups(480ml)duckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)¼cup(60ml)brandy1teaspoonfineseasalt2ounces(55g)FoieGrasTorchonwithPortandQuatreÉpices,finelydicedPANADE

¾cup(180ml)heavycream1tablespoonbrandy¼cup(15g)freshbreadcrumbs4ducknecks,or2goosenecksPOACHINGLIQUID

8cups(2L)duckorchickenbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)¼cup(60ml)brandy1½

teaspoonsfineseasalt

Placetheveal,pork,andfatinanonreactivebowl.Tomakethespicekit,inaspicegrinder,combinethecoriander,peppercorns,mustardseeds,clove,allspice,andthymeandgrindfinely.Transfertoabowl,addthesalt,andmixwell.Mixthespicekitwiththemeat,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Toassemblethegarnish,inasaucepan,combinethechestnuts,broth,and

brandy,bringtoasimmeroverlowheat,andcookforabout20minutes,untilthechestnutsaretender.Removefromtheheat,seasonwithsalt,andrefrigeratetochill.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthechilledchestnutstoacuttingboard,

reservingtheliquid,thenquarterthechestnuts.Setasidewiththeliquidandfoiegras.Tomakethepanade,inasmallbowl,combinethecream,brandy,andcrumbs

andmixwell.Setaside.Followingtheinstructionsforgrinding,fitthegrinderwiththesmallestplate

andgrindthemeatsonce.Foldinthepanadeandgrindagain.Foldinthechestnutsandtheircookingliquidandthefoiegrasandmixbyhandforabout1to2minutes,untilthefarceholdstogetherandthegarnishesareevenlydistributed.Cookasmallsampleofthemixtureinasautépan,thenchillthesample,tasteforseasonings,andadjustifnecessary.Preparethenecksforstuffing.Withthetipofasharpknife,makeacircle

aroundthebaseofaneck,justabovethewishbone,pressingallthewaytothebone.Gentlypulltheskincompletelyawayfromthebone,turningtheskininsideout.Trimawayanybloodvesselsorglands.Usingatrussingneedleandbutcher’stwine,stitchclosedthewidestendofneck.Knotthetwineatbothends.Repeatwiththeremainingneck(s).Tomakethepoachingliquid,inalargesaucepan,combinethebroth,brandy,

andsalt,placeonthestovetop,andheatto160°F(70°C).Whiletheliquidisheating,assembleasausagestufferandstuffthenecksfromtheopenendasyouwouldsalami(Casing,Linking,Looping,andTying).Tietheopenendstightlyclosedwithbutcher’stwine.Transferthestuffedneckstothepoachingliquidandpoachgentlyoververy

lowheatforabout25to30minutesoruntilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofaneckregisters140°F(60°C).Removethepotfromthestoveandallowtheneckstocoolatroom

temperatureintheirpoachingliquidforabout30minutes.Placeaplateontopof

theneckstokeepthemsubmergedintheliquidinthepot,thenrefrigeratethepotovernight.Thefollowingday,removethenecksfromthepotandsliceintorounds1inch

(2.5cm)thicktoserve.Unslicedleftoverswillkeepintherefrigeratorfor4to5days.

LiverandFoieGrasPreparations

Allfoiegrasisliverbutnotallliverisfoiegras.Foiegras,literally“fatliver”inFrench,istheresultofgavage,amethodoffatteningaduckorgooseinordertoproduceaverylarge,fattyliverwithameaty,silkytextureanddelicate,nuttyflavor.Rawfoiegrasisusuallysoldwhole.Eachliverconsistsofalargeandasmall

lobe.TheliversaregradedAthroughCforquality.WehighlyrecommendthatyoupurchaseonlygradeAfoiegras,whichisofsuperiorquality,mucheasiertoprepare,andonlyslightlymoreexpensivethangradeB.GradeCfoiegrasisofpoorqualityandusuallyonlyusedincommercialpreparations.Goodfoiegraswillhaveanappealingcolorthatrangesfromcreamtopalepeach,withlittleornodiscolorationorblemishing.

LOVETHELIVERORLEAVEIT:THEFOIEGRAS

CONTROVERSY

Inrecentyears,gavage,theprocessoffeedingducksandgeesebyhandforfatteningtheirliver,hasbeenatthecenterofthefoiegrascontroversy.Itisimportanttodecideforyourselfwhetherornotyouarecomfortablewithspecificaspectsofanimalhusbandryandtolearnallofthefactsbeforecomingtoaconclusion.Formostoftheirlives,ducksandgeesethatare

destinedtoproducefoiegrasliveonafarmjustliketheirregularcounterparts.Inthelast2to3weeksoftheirlives,theyarefedbythemethodknownasgavagetwoorthreetimeseachday.Asmalltubeisinsertedintobird’sthroatandthebirdisfedamixturethatusuallycontainssomecookedcorn.Thispracticepromptstwoquestions:isitforce-feedingandisitcruel?Toanswerthesequestions,youmustkeepacoupleofthingsin

mind.Ducksandgeesearewaterfowlandtheirthroats,unlikeours,aredesignedtoswallowwhole,live,wrigglingcreatures.Afoodsacatthebaseoftheirthroatallowsthemtostoremanymeals’worthoffoodastheyhunt.Theirwindpipeislocatedatthecenteroftheirtongue,whicheliminatesanygagreflexduringfeeding.Gorgingbeforemigrationisanaturalpartofwaterfowllife,andtheyareadaptedtostoregreatquantitiesoffatintheirliverswithoutharmingthemselves.Thefattenedliverishealthyandnormal,andifthebirdsweretoreturntoregularfeedings,theirliverwouldreturntoitsprefattenedsize.Casesofanimalcrueltyhaveresultedfromthe

productionoffoiegras,justasmanycasesofanimalcrueltyhaveoccurredwithallothertypesoffarming.Thegeeseandducksareavaluablecommodityandessentialtothefarmer’slivelihood.Stressormistreatmentwillresultininferiorfoiegrasandalossforfarmers.Responsiblefarmerscaredeeplyabouttheirchargesandmaketheefforttogivethemagoodlife.Foiegrasisatreat,notsomethingyoueateveryday.If

youwanttoindulgenowandagain,getthegoodstufffromaqualitysource.

Theregular,unfattenedliversofduck,goose,chickenandotherpoultryarealsowonderfullyflavoredandcanbeusedtoproduceanarrayofcharcuterie.Good-qualitypoultryproducesgood-qualitylivers,soalwaysbuyyourliversfromafarmyoutrust.Liversneedtobeperfectlyfresh.Lookforliversthatarewhole,withadeepredwinecolorandnodiscernableodor.

PreparingLiverBothregularliversandfoiegrasmustbecleanedandtrimmedbeforeusing.Topreparefreshduckorotherpoultryliversforcooking,rinsebrieflyinacolanderunderagentlestreamofcoldrunningwater.Patdrywithapapertowelandplaceonacuttingboard.Useonehandtoholdtheliverinplaceandtheothertopullanyfilamentsofconnectivetissueorveinsfromit.Then,usingaparingknife,

trimawayanydiscoloredareasorbilespots.Refrigeratetheliversuntilreadytouse.Topreparefoiegrasforcooking,removetheliverfromtherefrigeratorand

allowtotemperatroomtemperatureforabout1hour.Foiegrasiseasiesttoworkwithwhenitisjustslightlycoolerthanroomtemperature.Usingaparingknife,splitthefoiegrasalongtheseamtoseparatethelargeandsmalllobes.Turnthelobescutsideuponyourcuttingboard.Usingthetipoftheknife,exposethelargeveinthatrunsfromthetoptobottom,thensliptheknifeunderthetipoftheveinandgentlytugitout,ideallyinonepiece.Needle-noseplierscanbehandyforthisdelicateoperation.Usingthesamemethod,pulloutanyothervisiblebloodvessels.Foiegrasisfairlyforgiving,andanyusablefoiegrasdisplacedduringcleaningcanbegentlyproddedbackintoplace.

DuckLiverMoussewithArmagnacCream

DUCKLIVERMOUSSEWITHARMAGNACCREAM

“Sexontoast”washowoneFattedCalfregulardescribedwedgesoftoastedpandemietoppedwiththisdecadentducklivermousse.Inthisdesirablepreparation,sautéedduckliversareenrichedwithbutterandthenexaltedwithArmagnacwhippedcreamtocreateasilky,sumptuousspreadtobeenjoyedwithtoastpoints,inaVietnamese-stylebanhmi,or,withtheblindsdrawn,aunaturel—straightfromthecrockwithaspoon.MAKESONE6-CUP(1.4L)TERRINE

2½pounds(1.2kg)preparedducklivers,cleanedandtrimmed1tablespoonfineseasalt,plusapinch½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper½teaspooncuringsaltno.1(optional)2tablespoonsrenderedduckfat½cup(120ml)duckgelée,or2cups(480ml)duckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)reducedto½cup(120ml)thenseasonedwith1teaspoonfineseasalt½cup(120ml)Armagnac1½cups(340g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cup(240ml)heavycream

Placetheliversinanonreactivebowl.Seasonwiththe1tablespoonsalt,theblackandwhitepepper,andthecuringsalt,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight.Inaheavysautépan,melttheduckfatovermedium-highheat.Whenthefat

beginstosizzle,addtheliversandsautéforabout5minutes.Theyshouldberosyontheinsideandyieldingtothetouchbutnotsquishy.Turnoutontoaplattertocool.Refrigerate,uncovered,for2hours.Dividethecookedliversintothreeequalbatches.Putone-thirdofthelivers

intoafoodprocessorandpureefor3minutes.Slowlyaddone-thirdofthegelée

and1tablespoonofArmagnac,followedbyone-thirdofthebutter.Processforanother2to3minutes,untilthemixtureisverysmooth.Usingarubberspatula,scrapethepureeintoabowl.Repeatwiththeremainingtwobatchesoflivers,addingone-thirdofthegelée,1tablespoonofArmagnac,andone-thirdofthebuttertoeachbatch.Stirthethreebatchestogether,thentasteforseasoningandadjustifnecessary.

Setafine-meshsieveortamisoverabowl,thenpassthepureethroughitbyscrapingsmallamountsoverthemeshsurfacewithaspatulaorplasticbenchscraper.Inabowl,usingawhisk,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Whisktheremaining

Armagnacandapinchofsaltintothecream,thenfoldthecreamintotheliverpureeandtasteforseasoning.Ifyouwillbeservingthemousseenterrine,packitintoanearthenware

crock.Alternatively,linea6-cup(1.4L)terrinewithplasticwrap,allowingittooverhangthesidesbyatleast3inches(7.5cm),andfillwiththemousse.Bringuptheoverhangtocoverthetop,thenrefrigerateforatleast3hourstoset.Toturnoutthemousse,removeitfromtherefrigeratorandinvertitontoacuttingboard,thencarefullyliftofftheterrine.Carefullypeelawaytheplasticwrapandslicetoserve.Themoussewillkeepintherefrigeratorforupto4days.

FoieGrasTerrinewithMadeiraGelée

FOIEGRASTERRINEWITHMADEIRAGELÉE

Inthissimplebutstunningpreparation,awholelobeoffoiegrasisseasonedwithfleurdesel,nestledintoaterrine,andcookeduntiljustset,thencoveredwithalayerofMadeiragelée.Theeffectisadelighttoboththeeyeandthepalate.Theglossy,caramel-coloredgeléesurroundsthebakedfoiegras,seepingintothecracksonitssurfaceandaccentuatingtheopulent,nuttyflavoroftheliver.SauternesorvinsantomakesanexcellentalternativetotheMadeira.SERVES8

1wholegradeAfoiegrasFleurdesel1cup(240ml)duckgeléeorhighlyseasoned

gelatinousduckbroth(seeBasicBrothMaking,step12)1cup(240ml)MadeiraHotbriocheslices,forserving

CleanandtrimthefoiegrasasdirectedinPreparingLiver.Lightlyseasontheliveronallsideswiththefleurdesel.Placeinanonreactivedishorcontainer,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Inasaucepan,combinethegeléeandMadeira,placeovermediumheat,and

simmerforabout15minutes,untilreducedbyhalf.Setasidetocool.Preheattheovento275°F(135°C).Removethefoiegrasfromtherefrigerator

andlettemperatroomtemperatureforabout30minutes.Bringakettlefilledwithwatertoasimmer.Pressthesmallerlobeonthe

bottomofasmallearthenwareterrineor1-quart(960ml)soufflédish,thenmoldthelargerlobearoundit.Foldakitchentowelinhalfandplaceinthebottomofaroastingpanlargeenoughtoaccommodatetheterrine.Settheloadedterrineonthetowel.Pourthesimmeringwaterintotheroastingpantoreachone-thirdofthewayupthesidesoftheterrine.Carefullyplaceintotheovenandbakefor20to25minutes,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofthefoiegrasregisters120°F(49°C).Removefromtheovenandgentlylifttheterrinefromthewaterbath.

Ladleoffasmuchfataspossiblewithoutdamagingtheshapeoftheliver.Reservethefatforanotheruse.Allowtheterrinetocoolfor1hour,thenpourthereducedMadeiraandgeléeoverthetop.Refrigerateovernighttoallowtheflavorstomarry.Toserve,lettheterrinecometoroomtemperature,thencutslicesdirectlyout

ofthedishandspreadontohotbrioche.ServewithplentyofChampagne.Tightlywrapanyleftoverterrineinplasticwrapandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto5days.

FoieGrasTorchonwithPortandQuatreÉpices

FOIEGRASTORCHONWITHPORTANDQUATREÉPICES

TorchonistheFrenchwordfora“rag”or“dishtowel,”andafoiegrasautorchonisafoiegrasthatisseasonedandthenwrappedinatowelorcheeseclothtomolditpriortocooking.Sometorchonsarepoached,butthistorchonisburiedinsaltto“cook.”Theresultisadense,firm,buttery,well-seasonedfoiegraswithafetching,darkinlayofreducedportandquatreépices.Slicethetorchonandservewithwarmbrioche,shavewithavegetablepeeleroverasimplearugulasalad,ortopasteakhotoffthegrillwithathickcoinofitsbutterygoodness.SERVES6TO8

1wholegradeAfoiegrasFleurdeselorMaldonseasalt2cups(480ml)port1½teaspoonsquatreépices5pounds(2.3kg)fineseasalt

CleanandpreparethefoiegrasaccordingtotheinstructionsinPreparingLiver.Lightlyseasontheliveronallsideswithfleurdesel.Placeinanonreactivedishorcontainer,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Inasaucepan,slowlycooktheportoverlowheatfor20to30minutes,until

reducedtoabout¼cup(60ml).Pourintoasmallcontainer,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,laythefoiegrasonacuttingboardorplatter.Drizzlethe

reducedportoverthecutsideofeachlobe,followedbyadustingofthequatreépices.Allowtomarinateatroomtemperaturefor1hour.Cutadoublelayerofcheeseclothabouttwicethelengthofthefoiegras.Lay

thelargelobelengthwise,cutsideup,onthecheesecloth.Placethesmallerlobe,cutsidedown,ontopofthelargerlobe.Foldtheedgeofthecheeseclothclosesttoyouoverthefoiegrasandsqueezetoformacylinderroughly2inches(5cm)indiameter.Foiegrasismostlyfatandverymalleable,sodonotworryaboutdamagingtheliver.Rollthefoietightlyinthecheeseclothandsecuretheopenendswithtwine.Youshouldhaveaneatlittleparcelofrelativelyuniform

dimensionsthatlooksnotunlikeasalami.Pourroughlyone-thirdofthefineseasaltintothebottomofadeepcontainer

largeenoughtoaccommodatethetorchoncomfortably.Nestlethetorchonontopofthesalt,thencovercompletelywiththeremainingfineseasalt.Thetorchonshouldbeburiedwithnoportionofitvisibleabovethetoplayerofsalt.Coverandrefrigeratefor3days.Gentlyunearththetorchonfromthesalt,brushoffanysaltthatclingstothe

cheesecloth,snipthetwinethatsecuredtheendsclosed,andcarefullyunrollthefoiegras.Cutasliceofftheendtotaste.Itshouldbehighlyseasoned,rich,andveryfirm.Ifitseemsalittlebland,rollupthetorchoninafreshpieceofdoubledcheeseclothandburyitinthesamesaltfor12to24hourslonger.Servethetorchonassuggestedintheheadnote.Tightlywrapanyunused

portioninplasticwrapandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

BraisedHamHocks

N

7

BRINED,CURED&SMOKED

ecessityislikelywhatdroveustodiscoverthemagicofdrycuring,smoking,andbrininginourquestforpreservingmeatforsurvival.Butperhapsitisourhumannature,ourdesiretocontroltheelements,thatledustotinkerwithfire,water,air,andsaltyearth,turningnecessityintothehighlycultivatedcraftsofbrining,drycuring,andsmoking.Thesethreefinelytunedmethodsofpreservationareoftenintertwinedtocreatethesalty,smoky,sweet,andspicedmeatsthattraditionallytideusoverduringourleantimesandaccompanyusonourjourneys,providingsustenanceandsomethingmore:flavorthatwelongfor.Eventoday,whenrefrigeration,moderncanningmethods,andothertechnologieshaverenderedtheseancientpreservationmethodsobsolete,wehungerforbacon,haveahankeringforagoodpastramisandwich,andcannotpassupabiteofsaltysweetham.

Brined

Thinkofabrineasadeliciousbaththatseasons,tenderizes,andhelpstobothpreservemeatandkeepitjuicyduringcooking.Itcanbeassimpleaswatermixedwithsaltormorecomplex,containingahostofaromaticingredients.

Howlongyoubrineandwhatgoesintothebrinedependsonthetypeandsizeofthemeatcutandthedesiredoutcome.Themeatisthoroughlysubmergedinthisbathforanywherefromafewhourstoachievesimpleseasoningforsmallercuts,toafewdaysforlargercuts,orforuptoseveralweekswhenpreservationisthegoal.

BriningforFlavorWhenyouwanttoseasonmeatthoroughlyandretainmoistureduringroastingorsmoking,briningisthewaytogo.Itisespeciallybeneficialfortougherorleancuts,largecuts,orcutsonthebone.Throughosmosis,brinespenetratethemeatmoreeffectivelythanregularsalting,sothattheinteriorofthemeatisjustasflavorfulasthesurface.Brinedmeatstendtocookataslightlyfasterrate,andbriningcanoffsetthemoisturelossthattypicallyoccursduringroasting,grilling,andsmoking,keepingthemeatmoist.Andifyouhappentocookyourbrinedroastalittlemorethanyoumeantto,briningprovidesacushionforvariance,keepingyourmeatjuicyanddelicious.

MeatstoBrineAlmostanymeatcanbebrined,butporkandpoultryarethemostcommonlybrinedmeats.Bothofthemneedtobecookedtoahigherinternaltemperaturethanotherroastingorgrillingbeef,lamb,orgoatcuts,andbrininggivesthemeataddedmoisturetohelpitretainjuiciness,evenwhencookedtohighertemperatures.Veryleancuts,suchasporkloinorchickenbreast,ormeatsthatwillbesmokedorslowroastedforalongtime,suchasspareribs,benefitfrombriningformuchthesamereason.Unevenlyshapedcuts,cutscomprisedofseveralmuscles,largecuts,orverybonycuts,suchasawholehamoraturkey,alsoprofitfromtheabilityofabrinetodisperseseasoningsthoroughlyandevenly.Briningcaneventenderizetoughercuts,suchaslegorshouldermuscles.

SaltwaterScienceTherearetwoimportantprocessesthatoccurwhenmeatisbrined:osmosisandproteinmodification.Osmosisoccurswhenthereisanunevenbalanceofsolventmoleculesoneithersideofamembrane:solventredistributesitselfandrestoresequilibriumbytravelingfromtheareaofhigherconcentrationtotheareaoflowerconcentration.Whenmeatisplacedinasaltybrine,osmosisisautomaticallytriggered.Becausethebrinesurroundingthemeathasahigherconcentrationofsaltthantheliquidwithinthemuscle,themuscledrawsinthe

brine,allowingtheseasoningstopermeatethemeat.Butthesaltthatinteractswiththeproteinschangesthem.Cellsplumpandwaterthatwouldnormallyflowouttocreateequilibriumbecomestrapped.Thecellsbothdrawinandholdmorewater.Thesaltalsoactsonsomeoftheproteins,breakingdowntheirstructure,looseningtheconnectionbetweencells,andcausingtraditionallytoughcutsofmeattobecomemoretender.

SALTYENOUGH?

Priortothestandardizationofmeasuringdevices,aneggwasoftenusedtotestthesalinityofabrine.Iftheeggwasbuoyant,thebrinewasgood.Iftheeggsank,moresaltwasadded.

BrineIngredientsThekeytoabrineissalt,andhowmuchsaltyouusedependsonthelengthoftimethemeatwillbesubmergedinthebrine.Fineseasaltisrecommendedasitdissolveseasilyinwater.Alwaysweighthesaltforabrinetoensureaccuracy.

Sugarisusedforflavoringandhelpstobalancethesalt.Italsoprovidesabonus:anysugaronthesurfaceofthemeatwillcaramelizeduringcooking,

givingthemeatalovelygoldensheen.Aromatics,suchasspices,herbs,garlic,andonions,canbeaddedtoabrineto

impartavarietyofsubtleflavorstomeat.Besuretoaddaromaticstothebrinewhenitisstillwarm,sothattheflavorswillinfusethoroughlyintotheliquid.

BriningBasics

1.Gatheryourequipmentandmakesureyouhaveamplespaceforrefrigerationorhaveaverylargecoolerandplentyofice.Chooseacontainerthatismadeofhardfood-gradeplasticandabouttwiceaslargeasthecutofmeatyouwillbebrining.Youmayalsoneedaheavyplateorotherweighttokeepthemeatsubmergedinthebrine.

2.Makethebrineadayaheadorearlierinthedaysothatithasplentyoftimetocooltoroomtemperature.

3.Useveryhotorboilingwatertodissolvethesaltandsugarthoroughlyinthebrine.

4.Addthearomaticswhilethebrineisstillhottofacilitatethereleaseofflavor.Thearomaticscanbetiedinacheeseclothsachetifyoudonotwanttohavetopickthemoffofthemeatafterbrining.

5.Allowthebrinetocooltoroomtemperatureorjustbelowbeforeplacingthemeatinthebrine.Neverplacemeatintoahotorevenwarmbrine.

6.Fullysubmergethemeat.Makesurethatallofthemeatisbelowthesurfaceofthebrine.Topwithaheavyplate,ifnecessary,toensureitremainssubmerged.

7.Refrigeratethemeatinthebrineimmediatelyandkeepitcold(atleast40°F/4°C).

8.Labelthebrinecontainerwiththecontents,date,andtime,sothatyouwillremembertopullthemeatfromthebrineatexactlytherighttime.Thisisespeciallyhelpfulifyouarebriningforseveraldaysorbriningseveralcutsatonce.

9.Allowbrinedmeattoair-dry.Onceyouremovethemeatfromthebrine,placeitonatrayorplatterlinedwithakitchentowelandallowtoair-dryintherefrigerator.Thesurfacemustbecompletelydrybeforecooking,sothatthemeatwillbrownproperly.

10.Discardusedbrine.Neverreuseabrine.

ALL-PURPOSEPOULTRYBRINE

Thissimplebrineisgoodforseasoningeverythingfromsmallgamehenstobigturkeys.Poultryisanespeciallygoodcandidateforbrining.Thebreastsandlegsofmostbirdscookatdifferentrates.Brininghelpstheleanerbreastmeatstaymoistandjuicywhilethelegsfinishcooking.Besuretoallowthebirdtodryfullybeforecookingtoensurecrispyskin.Thechartbelowliststheamountofbrinenecessaryforbirdsofvarioussizesandthebriningtimeforeach.Dependingonthesizeofyourbird,youmayneedtodivideormultiplythisrecipetoyieldtherequiredamountofbrine.MAKESABOUT4QUARTS(3.8L)

7ounces(200grams)fineseasalt3.7ounces(105grams)sugar4quarts(3.8L)boilingwater

Placethesaltandsugarinalargenonreactivecontainer.Pourinthewaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Coverlooselyandletcoolforatleast4hoursorforuptoovernight,untilcooledtoroomtemperature.Lightlyrinsethepoultrytobebrinedandpatdry.Submergethepoultryinthe

brine,topitwithaplatetokeepitsubmerged,andrefrigerateforthedesiredbriningtime.Lineatrayorplatterwithakitchentowel.Removethepoultryfromthebrine

anddiscardthebrine.Placethepoultryonthepreparedtrayandrefrigerateuncovereduntilthesurfaceisthoroughlydry.

SmallbirdsWeight:1to2pounds(450to900g)Brinetime:6to12hoursBrinequantity:2to3quarts(960mlto2.8L)

MediumbirdsWeight:2to5pounds(900gto2.3kg)Brinetime:12to24hoursBrinequantity:4quarts(3.8L)

LargebirdsWeight:5to10pounds(2.3to4.5kg)Brinetime:24to36hoursBrinequantity:6to8quarts(5.7to7.4L)

Extra-largebirdsWeight:10to20pounds(4.5to9kg)Brinetime:36to48hoursBrinequantity:8to16quarts(7.4to15L)

GARLICBRINE

Thisall-purposeporkbrinecanbeusedtoseasonandtenderizeshoulder,loin,sparerib,andothercuts.Makethebrinethedaybeforetoallowtheflavorsofthegarlicandspicestopermeatethebrine.Thechartbelowliststheamountofbrinenecessaryforcutsofvarioussizesandthebriningtimeforeach.Dependingonthesizeofyourcut,youmayneedtodivideormultiplythisrecipetoyieldtherequiredamountofbrine.MAKES4QUARTS(3.8L)

20clovesgarlic,lightlycrushed2tablespoonspeppercorns2tablespoonsyellowmustardseeds2teaspoonschileflakes2teaspoonsallspiceberries8wholecloves4driedbayleaves8ounces(225g)fineseasalt9.6ounces(270g)sugar4quarts(3.8liters)boilingwater

Placethegarlic,peppercorns,mustardseeds,chileflakes,allspice,cloves,andbayonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakeasachet(oruseamuslinbag).Placethesaltandsugarinalargenonreactivecontainer.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Addthesachet,coverthecontainerloosely,andletcoolforatleast4hoursorforuptoovernight,untilcooledtoroomtemperature.Lightlyrinsethemeattobebrinedandpatdry.Submergethemeatinthe

brine,topitwithaplateorotherweighttokeepitsubmerged,andrefrigerateforthedesiredbriningtime.Lineatrayorplatterwithakitchentowel.Removethemeatfromthebrine

anddiscardthebrine.Placethemeatonthepreparedtrayandrefrigerateuncovereduntilthesurfaceisthoroughlydry.

LoinorporterhousechopsBrinetime:8to12hoursBrinequantity2to3quarts(960mlto2.8L)

Spareribs,babybackribs,orbellyBrinetime:12to24hoursBrinequantity4quarts(3.8L)

Wholeloin,shoulder,orlegroastBrinetime:48to72hoursBrinequantity6to8quarts(5.7to7.5L)

CIDER-BRINEDPORKPORTERHOUSECHOPS

Porkporterhousechops,whichcontainacrosssectionofboththeloinandtenderloin,canbeatrickytocookperfectlybecausethetwomusclescookatslightlydifferentrates.Briningthiscutineffervescenthardappleciderensuresthatbothsidesofthechopstaysucculentandtender.Thisrecipecallsforsearingandthencookingthechopsintheoven;however,theyarealsoexcellentgrilledorsmoked.Ifporterhousechopsareunavailable,porkribchops(seeTheLoin,Step4a)areafinealternative.SERVES6

1tablespoonblackpeppercorns1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds3wholecloves5allspiceberries3driedbayleaves9ounces(255g)fineseasalt8ounces(225g)sugar5quarts(4.7L)boilingwater¾cup(180ml)good-qualityhardapplecider6bone-inporkporterhousechops1tablespoonlard

Placethepeppercorns,mustardseeds,cloves,allspice,andbayonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakeasachet(oruseamuslinbag).Placethesaltandsugarinalargenonreactivecontainer.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Addthesachet,coverthecontainerloosely,andletcoolforatleast4hoursorforuptoovernight,untilcooledtoroomtemperature.Whenthebrinehascooledtoroomtemperature,stirinthecider.Lightlyrinse

thechopsandpatdry.Submergethechopsinthebrine,topthemwithaplateorotherweighttokeepthemsubmerged,andrefrigeratefor48hours.Lineatrayorplatterwithakitchentowel.Removethechopsfromthebrine

anddiscardthebrine.Placethechopsonthepreparedtrayandrefrigerateuncovereduntilthesurfaceisthoroughlydry.(Oncethechopsaredry,theycanbewrappedinplasticandstoredfor5daysintherefrigeratoror6weeksinthe

freezer.)Tocookthechops,preheattheovento350°F(180°C).Removethechopsfromtherefrigeratorandtemperatroomtemperaturefor20to30minutes.Heatalarge,heavyovenproofskilletovermediumheat.Addthelardandtilt

thepantocoatthebottomevenly.Placethechopsinthepaninaneven,uncrowdedlayer.Brownthemononesideforabout7minutes.Turnthechopsover,thenslidethepanintothehotovenandcookforabout10minutesmore,untilgoldenbrown.Servehot.

BriningforPreservation

Briningmeatsisanage-oldprocessoffoodpreservation.Simplesaltbrineswillinhibitthegrowthofbacteria,buttheyarenotsufficientforlongstorage.Whenyouwanttousebriningforpreservinginadditiontoflavoring,youmustaddcuringsalt,orsaltcombinedwithsodiumnitrate,tothebrine(seechapter1formoreoncuringsalts).SodiumnitratekillstheClostridiumbotulinumsporesthancancausedeadlybotulismalongwithotherpotentiallyharmfulpathogens.Curingsaltalsogivesbrine-curedmeatstheircharacteristicpinkcolor.Withouttheadditionofnitrates,thesemeatswouldturnaveryunappealingshadeofgray.Brineswithcuringsaltaremadesimilarlytootherbrinesexceptthatthe

curingsaltmustbestirredintothebrineafterithascooledtoroomtemperature.Itcannotbeaddedtohotorwarmbrinebecauseheatlessensitseffectiveness.Asanaddedmeasureofsuccess,abrinepumpcanbeemployed.Basicbrinepumps,whichareavailableatspecialtykitchenandbutcherysupplyretailersandlooklikegiantsyringes,areusedtoinjectthebrineintothickercutsorcutsonthebonetoensureitpenetratesthroughout.Injectionalsoshortenstheoverallbriningtime.Injectingbrineisnotasubstituteforsubmergingthemeatinthebrine,however.Instead,itshouldbedoneinconjunctionwithsubmersion.

SMOKEDHAMHOCKS

Inthecoolermonths,smokedhamhocksareastapleintheFattedCalfkitchen.Theymakeaflavorfuladditiontosoups,beans,braisedgreens,ortheAlsatianclassic,ChoucrouteGarni.Foreshanks,whicharehockscutfromthefrontlegs,aregenerallypreferredforthistreatment,astheyhaveabitmoremeat,buthindshankscanbebrinedandsmokedaswell.MAKES4SMOKEDHOCKS

1tablespoonblackpeppercorns1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds5wholecloves8allspiceberries4driedbayleaves10ounces(280grams)sugar8ounces(225grams)fineseasalt4quarts(3.8liters)boilingwater1tablespooncuringsaltno.1

4skin-on,bone-inporkshanks,about12ounces(340g)each

Tomakethebrine,placethepeppercorns,mustardseeds,cloves,allspice,andbayonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakeasachet(oruseamuslinbag).Placethesugarandsaltinalargenonreactivecontainer.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesugarandsalt.Addthesachet,coverthecontainerloosely,andletcoolforatleast4hoursorforuptoovernight,untilcooledtoroomtemperature.Stirthecuringsaltintothecooledbrine.Lightlyrinsetheporkshanks.Using

abrinepump,injectabout¼cup(60ml)ofthebrineintoeachshanknexttothebone.Submergetheshanksintheremainingbrine,topwithaplateorotherweighttokeepthemsubmerged,andrefrigeratefor10days.Lineatrayorplatterwithakitchentowel.Removetheshanksfromthebrine

anddiscardthebrine.Placetheshanksonthepreparedtrayandrefrigerateuncoveredovernighttodrythoroughly.Thefollowingday,prepareyoursmokehousefollowingtheguidelineslisted

forHotandColdSmoking.Whenthesmokerreachesatemperatureof180°F(82°C),cooktheshanksforabout3hours,untilathermometerinsertedintothe

thickestpartofthemeatnottouchingboneregisters145°F(63°C).Removethehocksfromthesmokerandletthemcooltoroomtemperature.

Wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto2weeksorfreezeforupto3months.

BRAISEDHAMHOCKS

Tounleashthemightyflavorandtender,succulenttextureofbrinedandsmokedhamhocks,theymustfirstbebraised.Wefindthatmostrecipesthatcallforhamhocksfailtotreatthemtoalengthysimmerthatreleasestheirfullpotential.Manybeanandsouprecipescookmorerapidlythanthehock,andalthoughthehockwillcontributeflavorandalittlefattothepot,itsmeatwillremaintough.Thesolutionistofirstbraisethehamhocktotenderperfection,whichwillyieldbothvaluablebraisingliquorthatcanbeusedtoenrichapotofbeans,braisedgreens,orsoupandhockmeattenderenoughtobeservedasisorshreddedoffthebone.Seephoto.MAKES2BRAISEDHOCKS

2smokedhamhocks8cups(2L)waterorpork,chicken,orduck

broth(seeBasicRichBroth)1driedbayleaf1smallyellowonion,halved

Inapot,combinethehocks,water,bay,andonionandplaceovermediumheat.Bringtoasimmer,turndowntheheattolow,andcookslowlyjustbelowasimmer.Coverorpartiallycoverthepotiftheliquidseemstobeevaporating.Cookthehocksforabout3hours,untilthemeatbeginstopullawayfromthebone.Coolandstorethehocksintheircookingliquiduntilreadytouse.Thebraised

hockswillkeeprefrigeratedforupto4days.

PICNICHAM

Thislittlecuredandcooked“ham”isnotahamatall:it’snotacutfromthehindlegofthepigbutratherfromtheshoulderorpicnic.ThispreparationissimilartothatusedforanItaliancookedham,orprosciuttocotto:itisbrinedinwhitewine,coatedwithherbs,andgentlysteamedintheoven.SlicethehamintosteaksforeggsbenedictoruseittomakeasuperbrenditionofCroqueMonsieur.MAKES2PICNICHAMS,ABOUT1

POUND(450G)EACH

BRINE

1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1teaspoonallspiceberries3wholecloves1driedbayleaf7.2ounces(200grams)fineseasalt10.4ounces(290grams)sugar3½quarts(3.3L)boilingwater1tablespooncuringsaltno.1

1½cups(360ml)drywhitewine2bonelessporkpicnicroasts,1to1½pounds(450to680g)eachHERBRUB

1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundpepper¼cup(15g)finelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼cup(15g)finelychoppedrosemary¼cup(15g)finelychoppedsage2tablespoonsduckorporkgeléeorbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)

Tomakethebrine,placethepeppercorns,mustardseeds,allspice,cloves,andbayonasquareofcheesecloth,bringthecornerstogether,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakeasachet(oruseamuslinbag).Placetheseasaltandsugarinalargenonreactivecontainer.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Addthesachet,coverthecontainerloosely,andletcoolforatleast4hoursorforuptoovernight,untilcooledtoroomtemperature.Stirthecuringsaltandwineintothecooledbrine.Usingabrinepump,inject

thecenterofeachpicnicroastwithabout¼cup(60ml)ofthebrine.Submergetheroastsintheremainingbrine,topwithaplateorotherweighttokeepthemsubmerged,andrefrigeratefor5days.After5days,removethehamsfromthebrine.Trussthemtightlyinto

relativelyuniformcylinders.Outfitaroastingpanwitharack.Tomaketheherbrub,inasmallbowl,combinethepepper,parsley,rosemary,sage,andgeléeandmixwell.Coatthehamsevenlywiththemixtureandplaceontherack.Positionanovenrackonthelowestrungintheovenandthenpositiona

secondrackintheupperthirdoftheoven.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C).Bringasmallovenproofsaucepanfilledwithwatertoaboilonthestovetopandplacethepanonthebottomrack.Placetheroastingpanholdingthehamsontheupperrackoftheovenand

cookfor45minutesto1hour,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofeachhamregisters140°F(60°C).Removethehamsfromtheovenandallowthemtorestatroomtemperatureforatleast10minutesbeforeslicing.Ifyouwillbeeatingthehamscoldoratalaterdate,donotslice.Letthem

cooltoroomtemperature,thenwraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Theywillkeepforupto10days.

CroqueMonsieur

CROQUEMONSIEUR

ThisParisiancaféclassicmaybetheultimatehamandcheesesandwich:crisp,buttery,piledwithsalty,sweetham,andoozingwithcheesyMornaysauce.Makeitwithyourownhome-curedhamforaspecialtreat.SERVES4

MORNAYSAUCE

1½tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1½tablespoonsall-purposeflour1cup(240ml)wholemilk1cup(115)gratedComtéorGruyèrecheese½cup(55g)gratedParmesancheesePinchoffreshlygratednutmegPinchofgroundcayenneFineseasalt

8slicespaindemieorothergood-qualitysandwichbread2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted1pound(450g)bonelesspicnicham,orothercuredham,thinlysliced½cup(125g)whole-grainmustard

Tomakethesauce,inasmallsaucepan,meltthebutterovermediumheat.Whiskintheflouruntilcombinedandthencookandwhiskfor1minute.Slowlywhiskinthemilk,turndowntheheattolow,andcook,stirringconstantly,forabout5minutes,untilsmoothandthick.Continuecookingandstirringforabout5minutesmore,allowingthesaucetofurtherthicken,thenremovefromtheheatandstirinthecheeses,nutmeg,andcayenneuntilthecheesesmelt.Seasonwithsalt.Preheattheovento450°F(230°C).Laythebreadslicesinasinglelayerona

bakingsheet.Brushthesliceswiththebutter,thenflipthemover,butteredsidedown.Spreadthesecondsideofeachslicewiththemustard.Spoon2tablespoonsoftheMornaysauceontopofeachof4slices.Toptheremaining4sliceswithone-fourthoftheham,followedby1tablespoonoftheMornay.

Placethebakingsheetintheovenfor8to10minutes,untilthesauceisbubblingandbrownandthebottomofeachbreadsliceiscrispandgolden.Removethepanfromtheovenand,usingaspatula,marryeachoftheham-toppedsliceswithaMornay-toppedslice.Serveimmediately.

ChoucrouteGarni

CHOUCROUTEGARNI

ThisimmenselyheartydishfromFrance’sborderlandofAlsaceisaclassicofcharcuteriecooking.Brined,cured,andsmokedmeatsandsausagesarenestledinabedoftangysauerkrautandbraisedinacombinationofsmokyhockbrothandbright,crispAlsatianRieslinguntiltender.Althoughbriningandsmokingallofthemeatsyourselfrequiresconsiderableplanningandprepwork,theresultsareimmenselysatisfying.Servewithwithboiledpotatoesandplentyofstrongmustard.SERVES8TO10

¼cup(55g)renderedduckfatordrippings1bonelessporkshoulderroast,about2pounds(900g),brinedinGarlicBrine

4BelgianBeerSausagelinksorsimilarsausagelinks4uncookedCider-BrinedPorkPorterhouseChops

2largeyellowonions,thinlysliced2cups(480ml)AlsatianRieslingorsimilarwine2BraisedHamHockswiththeirbraisingliquid3quarts(2.8L)sauerkraut,homemadeorstore-bought1driedbayleaf6to8juniperberries2wholecloves8thickslicesbacon,homemadeorstore-bought

Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).First,brownthemeats.Seta9-to10-quart(8.5to9.5L)sturdybraiserover

mediumheat.Addtheduckfatandheatuntilquitehot.Carefullyplacethebrinedporkshoulderinthepanandbrownevenlyonallsides.Transfertheroasttoalargeplatterandsetaside.Addthelinksandchopstothepanandbrownevenlyonbothsides,thentransferthemtotheplatterwiththeshoulderroast.Lowertheheat,addtheonionstothepan,andcook,stirringoccasionally,for

about8to10minutes,untilsoftandtranslucent.Pourinthewine,bringtoasimmer,anddeglazethepot,stirringwithawoodenspoontoloosenthefond

fromthebottomofthepot.Addthehocksandtheirbraisingliquid,thesauerkraut,andthebay,juniper,andclovestothepot.Distributetheporkroast,links,andchopsevenlyinthepan,tuckingthemintothesauerkraut.Theyshouldbemostlycovered,withjustabitpeekingoutfromunderthekraut.Laythebaconslicesacrossthetopofthesauerkraut.Coverthepotandplaceintheoven.Cookslowlyfor2hours,thenuncover

thepotandcookforanadditional30to45minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Removethepotfromtheoven.Transfertheporkshoulderroastandthelinks

toacuttingboard.Allowthemtorestandcoolforafewminutes.Sliceeachsausageonthediagonalinto4or5thickslices,thentucktheslicesbackintothesauerkraut.Cuttheporkroastintoslicesandlaytheslicesontopofthesauerkraut.Servedirectlyfromthepotatthetable.

CORNEDBEEFBRISKET

Corningisjustanold-fashionedtermforsaltingorbrining.Thespice-ladenbrineinfusesstreakybeefbrisketwiththepungentflavorsofmustard,coriander,juniper,andbayinatraditionallengthysoak.TheresultingcornedbeefcanbesimmeredslowlyinatraditionalIrishAmericanboiledsupper,orrubbedwithseasoningsandsmokedfortheclassicdelifavorite,Pastrami.MAKES1CORNEDBRISKET,ABOUT8

POUNDS(3.6KG)

1pound,15ounces(880g)fineseasalt1¼pounds(570g)sugar5teaspoonspeppercorns5teaspoonsyellowmustardseeds2teaspoonscorianderseeds3juniperberries10wholecloves3bayleaves

11quarts(10.4L)boilingwater¼cup(75g)curingsaltno.1

1fattybeefbrisket,about8pounds(3.6kg)

Tomakethebrine,placetheseasalt,sugar,peppercorns,mustardseeds,coriander,juniper,cloves,andbayinalargenonreactivecontainer.Pourintheboilingwaterandstirtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Coverthecontainerlooselyandletcoolcompletelyovernight.Thenextday,stirthecuringsaltintothecooledbrine.Lightlyrinsethebrisket

andpatdry.Usingabrinepump,injectabout½cup(120ml)ofthebrineintothecenterofthebrisket.Submergethebrisketintheremainingbrine,topwithaplateorotherweighttokeepitsubmerged,andrefrigeratefor10days.Removethefinishedcornedbeefbrisketfromthebrineandrinsewellbefore

cooking(seeCookingCornedBeef).Discardthebrine.

COOKINGCORNEDBEEF

Awholebrisketmayseemlikealotofmeat,butcornedbeefisthedishthatkeepsongiving.Wealwayscookacornedbeeftwiceasbigaswethinkwemightreasonablyneedinhopesthatthenextdaywewillbeabletoenjoyahotcornedbeefsandwichheapedwithsauerkraut,caramelizedonions,andMuenstercheese.Anyendbitscanbeshreddedandsautéedwithonions,cookedbeets,andpotatoesforaheartybreakfastofredflannelhash.Chooseacookingpotthatiswideranddeeperthan

yourhunkofbeefistall(youmayneedadeeproastingpan).Tossacoarselychoppedleek,acoupleofpeeledwholecarrots,acloveortwoorthreeofgarlic;astalkofcelery,andsomesprigsofthymeandparsley.Setthecornedbeefbrisketatopthisaromaticbedandcovercompletelywithcoldwaterandperhapsageneroussplashofbeer.Placeallofthisinapreheated300°F(150°C)ovenandsimmerfor3to4hours.Prodthebrisketwithameatforktobesureitistenderandyieldingbeforecallingitquits.Letthemeatrestinitscookingliquorfor20to30minutesbeforecarefullytransferringittoacarvingboardandslicingitagainstthegrain.Seldomsticklersfortradition,weprefertocookthe

requiredcabbageandpotatoesseparately—orsometimesnotatall.(Sorry,Pop.)Boilednewpotatoeswithjustabitofbutterandparsleywilldo,orarootvegetablemashisgood,too.Farbetterthanlong-boiledcabbageischoppedcabbagesautéedwithbaconuntiljusttenderandfinishedwithaladlefulofthebraisingliquor.CreamyhorseradishsauceandsomestrongmustardroundoutthisfineIrishAmericanfeast—asuppersogoodthatyoumayneedtorationabitforthenextday’ssandwichesbeforeyousitdown.

DryCuring

Curingmeatisacuriouslyaddictivehobby.Itevokesasensationsimilartowatchingagardengrow.Youwillneedtodoabitofworkattheoutset,butoncetheinitiallaborisdone,thereisonlytending,waiting,prodding,andanticipationuntilthearomapeaksandthemusclefeelsripetothetouch,readytoharvest.Youmayexperienceadisappointmentortwowhileyouarelearningtheropes,butonceyougettheknack,youmightfindyourselfhabituallysmokinggorgeousgoldenslabsofbaconandstringingupspicedporkjowls.Itfeelsasrightandassatisfyingtopulldownafinishedpancettaasitdoestoharvestplumppodsofpeasfromthegarden.Drycuringisasimpletechnique.Agenerouslayerofsaltandother

seasoningsisrubbedontotheoutsideofacutofmeattobothflavoritandpreserveit.Similartobrining,drycuringreliesonosmosistodrawthesaltandseasoningsintothemeatandproteinmodificationtotenderizeit.Butunlikebrining,waterisnotdrawninwiththesalt.Ratherthanaddingmoisturetothemeat,drycuringdehydratesit,pullingoutexcesswater,concentratingtheflavors,andturningthemeatadeep,richcolor.

Porkreignssupremeintheworldofdrycuring.Althoughdry-curedhams,suchasthefamedItalianprosciutto,areprobablythebest-knownandmostpopularcuredmeats,nearlyeverypartofthepigisasuitablecandidatefordrycuring,fromtrottersandearstobelliesandloins.However,porkisnottheonlyplayer.Cutsofduck,goose,beef,andevenlambcanbedrycured,aswell.Drycuringisusuallyonepartofatwo-partprocess.Theinitialdrycure

beginswhenthemeatissaltedandmoistureisallowedtodrainoff.Thisfirstpartcantakeanywherefromafewdaystoafewweeks.Oncethemeathaslostthemajorityofitsmoisture,itcanbeeithersmokedorair-dried.Meatsthatarefinishedwithsmokeusuallyrequirelessofaninitialdrycurebecausesmokingdrawsoutadditionalmoistureandprovidesanextralayerofpreservation.Air-driedmeatsrequirealongerinitialdrycure,afterwhichtheyshouldbehunginacoollocationtocureandfirmupfullyenoughtoeatwithoutcooking.Theycanhanganywherefromafewweeksforsmallercuts,suchasGuanciale,toacoupleofyearsforacuredham.

IngredientsforDryCuringDrycuringinvolvesafamiliarcastofcharacters.

Saltprovidesflavor,changesthetexturebydrawingoutmoisture,slowsthegrowthofbacteriausingdehydration,andregulatesthefermentationprocessbyloweringthewateractivitylevel.Weuseafineseasaltfordrycuringbecauseitismostreadilyabsorbedbythemeat.

Curingsaltisalmostalwaysusedindrycuringbecauseitkeepmeatsfromspoilingand,mostimportantly,itinhibitsthegrowthofbotulism.Seemoreinformationonthetwoprimarytypesofcuringsalt.

Sugarissometimesusedforflavoringandtohelptobalancesaltiness.Anynumberofsugarsorsweetenerscanbeused,fromsimplecanesugartomaplesyruptohoney.Dextroseisapopularchoicefordry-curedmeatsbecauseitisfinelytextured,easilyabsorbed,andhasalesspronouncedsweetness.Sugarsalsoprovidefoodforbacteriainstrumentaltothefermentationprocess.

Aromaticssuchasspices,driedherbs,garlic,andwinecanalsobeusedtoimpartavarietyofsubtleflavorstoyourcuredmeat.

Dry-CuringBasics

1.Gatheryourequipmentandmakesureyouhaveamplespaceforrefrigerationoranothercoolspacetostoreyourmeatduringthedry-curingprocess.Choose

acontainerthatismadeofhardfood-gradeplasticorothernonreactivematerial.Itshouldbeatleastalittlelargerthanthecutofmeatyouwillbecuring.Forsomedry-cureditems,youwillalsoneedalargeplasticcolanderfordrainingduringtheinitialcure.Restaurantsupplystoresoftensellfood-gradeplasticpansorbinswithperforatedinsertsthatareperfectfordrycuringandwellworththesmallinvestment.

2.Preparethedry-curemix.Carefullymeasureandcombinetheseasalt,curingsalt,sugar,andaromatics,thenmixwelltodistributetheingredientsevenly.

3.Trimandweighthemeattocalculatetheamountofdry-curemixyouwillneed.Besuretoremoveanysilverskinorglandsthoroughlyandtrimthemeatintoasomewhatneatoruniformshapebeforeweighingit.Theamountofdry-curemixyouwillneediscalculatedaccordingtotheweightofthemeat,andisgenerallyabout3percentoftheweightofthemeattobeair-dried.Thisruledoesnotapplytomeatsthatwillbefinishedbyhotsmokingorcooking.

4.Perforatethemeatbypiercingitssurfacethoroughlyandevenlywiththetinesofasausageknife,thepointyendofatrussingneedle,orasharpskewer.Theperforationsallowthedry-curemixtobemoreeasilyabsorbed.

5.Rubthemeatwiththedry-curemix,thenmassagethemixintothemeatsothatitpenetratesthoroughly.

6.Letthedrycuringbegin.Placetherubbedmeatintothechosencontainer.Label,date,andrefrigeratethecontainer.Drainoffexcessliquidandrotateasneeded.Themeatwilllosemostofitsliquidinthefirstfewdaysandthentheprocesswillslow.

7.Finishthecuringprocessbyair-dryingorsmoking.Aftertheinitialdrycuring,mostcuredmeatsarefinishedeitherbysmokingorbyhangingforair-drying.Meatsthatareair-driedmustbekeptfairlycool,usuallyatabout50°F(10°C).Oftentimesalightmoldwillformontheoutsideofthemeatasitages.Inmostcases,thisisbeneficialratherthanharmful,creatingabarrierthathelpstoprotectthemeatagainstpotentiallydangerouspathogensduringthedryingprocess.

PancettaArrotolata

PANCETTAARROTOLATA

Pancettaisatypeofcuredporkbelly,butunlikeitssweetandsmokyAmericancousin,bacon,Italianpancettaisair-driedafteritsinitialcure.Therearetwobasictypesofpancetta,tesaandarrotolata.Pancettatesaisaflatpancetta,driedinitsnaturalshapeuntilitissofirmanddrythatitcanbeeatenrawlikeprosciutto.Pancettaarrotolataisrolled,trussed,andcureduntiljustfirm.Slicedordiced,itisthecuredmeatworkhorseoftheItaliankitchen,findingitswayintotortelliniandontopizza,lendingitsdelicatelysweetporkinesstosughi,insalate,zuppe,andverdure,andbardingleanmeatssuchasporktenderloinwithitsamplefat,keepingthemjuicyanddeliciousduringroasting.Starttofinish,thispancettawilltakeaminimumof4weekstoprepare

andcure.Ifyoupreferaveryfirmpancetta,youcancontinuetoletithangforseveralmoreweeks.MAKESABOUTONE6½-POUND(3-KG)

ROLLEDPANCETTA

1skinless,bonelessporkbelly,about8pounds(3.6kg)orslightlylargerCUREMIX

1tablespoonblackpeppercorns2teaspoonschileflakes1driedbayleaf5allspiceberries3ounces(85g)fineseasalt1tablespoondextrose2teaspoonscuringsaltno.2

¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

Trimandsquareofftheporkbellysothatitweighsabout8pounds(3.6kg),giveortake1ounce(30g).(Anytrimcanbesavedforsausageorrillettes.)Laythebellyfatsidedownonacuttingboardandpiercewiththetinesofasausageknife,thepointyendofatrussingneedle,orasharpskewer,coveringitcompletelywithperforationsroughly½inch(12mm)apart.Tomakethecuremix,inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercorns,chile

flakes,bayleaf,andallspiceandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addtheseasalt,dextrose,curingsalt,andnutmeg,andmixwelltodistributetheingredientsevenly.

Placetheporkbellyinanonreactivepanorcontainerlargeenoughtoholditflat.Rubthecurealloverbothsidesandalloftheedgesofthebelly,makingsuretoworkthecureinbetweenanycrevices.Whenallofthecurehasbeenmassagedintothemeat,laythebellyfatsidedowninthecontainer,cover,andrefrigerate.Thefollowingday,flipthebellyoversothefatsidefacesup.Turnitonce

againthefollowingdaysothatthefatsideonceagainfacesdown.Recoverit,returnittotherefrigerator,andleaveitundisturbedtocureforanother12days.Removethebellyfromthepan.Usingameathook,hangthebellyinthe

refrigerator(orothercoldlocation)for2daystodryfurther.Placeapanorshallowbowlunderneaththebellytocatchanydrippingjuices.Whenthebellyisdry,removeitfromtherefrigeratorandletitsitatroom

temperatureforabout3hours,untilitissoftandmalleable.Coveralargecuttingboardwithplasticwrap.Laythetemperedbelly,meatysideup,ontopoftheplasticwrap.Placeanotherlayerofplasticwrapontopofthebelly.Usingaheavymeattenderizer,rubbermallet,orrollingpin,poundthepancettathoroughly,evenly,andwithoutmercyforafull5minutes,untilitismorepliableandeasytoroll.Torollandtiethepancetta,laythebelly,meatysideup,withitslongestside

closesttoyou.Startingatthesideclosesttoyou,foldthefirst2inches(5cm)overontothemselvesandpressdownfirmly.Continuetorollandpress,makingsuretoeliminateanyairgapsthatcanresultinunwantedmoldontheinsideofthepancetta.Whenthebellyiscompletelyrolled,tieitwithbutcher’stwineasyouwouldaroast(seeHowtoTieaRoast),tyingitastightlyaspossible,thenrehangitintherefrigeratorforanother2weeksoruntilitisfirmtoyourliking.Pancettakeepsbestwhenleftwholeorinlargepieces.Sliceoffonlywhatis

tobecookedandtightlywraptheunusedportioninplasticwrap.Itwillkeepwellintherefrigeratorfor3to4weeksorinthefreezerforupto6months.

BRESAOLA

BresaolaisanorthernItaliandry-curedspecialtymadewithleanbeefeyeofround.Drycuringtenderizesthisoftentoughcutandenhancesitsrich,beefyflavor.Weprefertocasetheeyeofroundinbeefcapsbeforehanging.Beeffatismorepronetospoilagethanpork,andthecapprotectsagainstspoilageasitair-dries.Italsogivestheeyeofroundaneatanduniformshape,ensuringamoreevendrycure.Thinlysliced,bresaolaisastunningdeepredandhasanearthyflavorthatcanbeenjoyedeitheraspartofanassortedantipastoortossedintoasaladofbittergreens,persimmons,olives,andpecorinocheese.MAKESABOUT3

POUNDS(1.4KG)

CUREMIX

1½teaspoonspeppercorns½teaspooncorianderseeds2allspiceberries2juniperberries1wholeclove

1¾ounces(50grams)fineseasalt2teaspoonscuringsaltno.2

1(4-pound/1.8-kg)beefeyeofround,completelytrimmedofallexternalfatandsilverskin1beefcap,rinsedandturnedinsideout

Tomakethecuremix,inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercorns,coriander,allspice,juniper,andcloveandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addtheseasaltandcuringsalt,andmixwelltodistributetheingredientsevenly.Checktheeyeofroundcarefullytomakesureitistrimmedofallexternalfat

andsilverskin.Piercethesurfaceoftheeyeofroundthoroughlyandevenlywiththetinesofasausageknife,thepointyendofatrussingneedle,orasharpskewer,coveringitcompletelywithperforationsroughly½inch(12mm)apart.Laytheeyeofroundinalarge,flatnonreactivecontainer(alargeceramic

bakingdishorfood-gradeplasticstoragecontainerworkswell).Rubthecure

mixevenlyoverthesurfaceofthebeef,massagingitinwell.Coverthecontainerlooselyandrefrigerateovernight.Thenextday,bastethebeefwiththeliquidthathasaccumulatedinthe

container.Placetheeyeofroundintoalargeplasticcolanderordrainpansetoveracontainer.Coverandrefrigerate.Everydayfor2weeks,turnthebeefinthecolanderanddiscardanyaccumulateddrippings.After2weeks,casetheeyeofroundinthebeefcap.Removetheeyeofround

fromtherefrigerator.Drainoffanyexcesswaterfromtherinsedbeefcap.Rolltheopenendofthebeefcapontooneendoftheeyeofround,thenpullitentirelyoverthemeat,likeasockoverafoot.Pullittautandsmoothoutanyairpockets.Usingbutcher’stwine,andbeginningattheclosedend,tietheencasedeyeofroundwithbutcher’stwineasyouwouldaroast(seeHowtoTieaRoast),tyingitastightlyaspossibleandpressingoutanyairpocketsthatmayformasyougo.Tieaknotandloopattheopenendofthebeefcap,asyouwouldforsalami(seeCasing,Linking,Looping,andTying).Hangthecasedmeatinacool,drylocation(50°F/10°Cisoptimal)for6to8weeks.Itisreadywhenitfeelsfirm,likeawell-doneroast.Toserve,peelbackthecasingontheportionyouplanonslicing.Slice

crosswiseasthinlyaspossibleintorounds,preferablyusingameatslicer.Bresaolaisbestwhenfreshlyslicedandservedrightaway,asithasatendencytooxidizeanddryoutmorequicklythanothercuredmeats.Tightlywraptheunusedportioninplasticwrap.Itwillkeepwellintherefrigeratorfor1to2months.

Guanciale

GUANCIALE

GuanciaisItalianfor“cheek,”andguanciale,aspecialtyofcentralItaly,iscuredporkjowlthathasbeenrubbedwithanaromaticblendofblackpepper,hotchile,anddriedrosemary.Althoughitcanbeusedinmanyofthesamewaysthatpancettaisused,guancialedefinitelyhasapersonalityallitsown.Whenslowlycrispedinapan,itgivesoffanintriguing,spicy,sharpfragrancethatawakensthehunger.Sautéthinshardsofguancialewithpeas,asparagus,andspringonions,ortosscrispybitsofsautéedguancialewithshreddedLacinatokale,pecorinocheese,plumpedcurrants,andtoastedpinenutsforasatisfyingsalad.Or,useitastheRomansdo,forarobustbowlofbucatiniall’amatricianaorspaghettiallacarbonara.MAKES3TO4POUNDS(1.4TO1.8KG)

5pounds(2.3kg)skin-onporkjowlsCUREMIX

1teaspoonsblackpeppercorns2teaspoonschileflakes1teaspoondriedoregano½teaspoonaniseeds,toasted

1driedbayleaf2ounces(55grams)fineseasalt2teaspoonscuringsaltno.2

RUB

2tablespoonscoarselychoppeddriedrosemary3tablespoonsfinelygroundchileflakes¼cup(28g)freshlygroundpepper

Trimthejowlsofallglands.Theglandstendtoresideontheinnermeatysideofthejowlsandaredistinguishablebytheiroff-white,shinyappearance.Shaveawayanyraggededgessothatthejowlshaveasomewhatuniformappearance.Prickthemeatsideofthejowlswiththetinesofasausageknife,thepointyendofatrussingneedleorasharpskewer,coveringitcompletelywithperforationsroughly½inch(12mm)apart.Leavetheskinsideundisturbed.Tomakethecuremix,inaspicegrinder,combinethepeppercorns,chile

flakes,bayleaf,oregano,aniseeds,andbayandgrindfinely.Transfertoasmallbowl,addtheseasaltandcuringsalt,andmixwelltodistributetheingredientsevenly.Rubthecuremixontoallsidesofthejowls,placeinanonreactivecontainer

(itisfineifthejowlsarestackedortouching),andrefrigerate.Everydayfor2weeks,mixthejowlsandrotatethejowlsonthebottomtothetoptoensurethatthecureisevenlypenetratingeachjowl.After2weeks,removethejowlsfromtherefrigerator.Usingatrussingneedle

andbutcher’stwine,piercethetopofeachjowlandrunthetwinethroughtocreatealoop.Hangthejowlsinadry,coollocation(50°F/10°Cisoptimal)tocure.Besuretospacethejowlsatleast3inches(7.5cm)aparttoallowforproperairflow.Afterroughly3weeks,thejowlsshouldfeelfairlyfirmandcanbetakendown.Tomaketherub,inasmallbowl,combinetherosemary,chileflakes,and

pepperandmixwell.Massagetherubintothemeatsideofeachjowl.Wrapeachjowlinplasticandrefrigerate.Allowtherubbedjowlstositovernighttoallowtheflavorsoftherubtomarrywiththemeatbeforeusing.Theguancialecanbeslicedwithitsskinintactifyouenjoythechewytexture.

Or,youcanpeelawaytheskinwithasharpknifebeforeslicing.Ifyoudopeelofftheskin,saveitandtossitintoyournextpotofbeansorminestronetoaddcomplexity.Sliceonlywhatyouneedatthetime,thentightlywraptheunusedportioninplasticwrap.Itwillkeepwellintherefrigeratorfor4to6weeksorinthefreezerforupto6months.

BrownSugar–CuredBacon

BROWNSUGAR–CUREDBACON

Aslabofbaconjustoutofthesmokerisheavenonaplatter.Itishardtoresisttearingoffalittleendpieceandshovingthestill-steaming,salty,sweetmeatintoyourmouth.Mostcommerciallyproducedbaconisbrined(orbrineinjected),butdrycuringit—aswesuggestinthisrecipe—producesmeatierandmoreflavorfulbaconthatwon’tspitandcurlwhenyoucookit.Chooseporkbelliesthatarefairlythick,withafairlyequalleantofatratio,keepinginmindthattheywillshrinkslightlyduringthecuringandsmokingprocess.Thisarelativelyquickdry-curingproject,requiringjust3days.MAKES2SLABS,ABOUT3½POUNDS(1.6KG)

EACH

1wholethickboneless,skinlessporkbelly,about8pounds(3.6kg)CUREMIX

1pound(450g)brownsugar12ounces(340g)fineseasalt1tablespooncuringsaltno.1

1tablespoongroundcayenne1tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Useasharpknifetosquareofftheedgesoftheporkbelly,thencutinhalfcrosswisetoyieldapairofrelativelysquarepiecesofaboutthesamesize.Besuretosaveanybellytrimforsausageorrillettesorotherpottedmeats.Tomakethecuremix,inabowl,combinethebrownsugar,seasalt,curing

salt,cayenne,andblackpepper.Spreadabout1cup(250g)ofthecuremixevenlyoverthebottomofa

containerlargeenoughtoaccommodatethebellysquares,onestackedontopoftheother.Placeabellyhalf,meatsidedown,directlyontopofthecure.Rubanadditional1cup(250g)ofthecureontheedgesandfatsideofthebelly,makingsuretogetthemixintoallofthecrevices.Placethesecondsquareofbelly,meatsidedown,ontopofthefirst.Rubanother1cup(250g)ofthemixontheedgesandfatsideofthebelly,againmakingsuretogetthemixintoallofthecrevices.

Coverlooselyandrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,removethebellyslabsfromthecontainerandpouroffany

accumulatedliquid.Switchthepositionoftheslabs,placingtheslabpreviouslyontoponthebottomofthecontainerandthebottomslabontop.Rubanyremainingcuremixanywherethatitmightbelacking.Recoverandreturntotherefrigeratorforanother24hours.Thefollowingday,rotatetheslabsagain.Afterthebellyslabshavecuredfor3fulldays,removethemfromthepanand

rinsethemquicklyunderwarmrunningwatertoremoveanysolids.Pattheslabsdry.Prepareyoursmokehouse,followingtheguidelineslistedforHotandCold

Smoking,andheatto160°Fto180°F(70°Cto82°C).Placethebellyslabsonarackinthesmokerandsmokefor2to3hours,untilathermometerinsertedintothecenterofaslabregisters140°F(60°C).Removethebaconfromthesmokerandletitcooltoroomtemperature,then

refrigerate.Thebaconmustbewellchilledbeforeslicing.Baconkeepsbestinslabform.Sliceonlywhatyouneedatthetime,then

tightlywraptheunusedportioninplasticwrap.Itwillkeepwellintherefrigeratorfor2to3weeksorinthefreezerforupto6months.

FinishingwithSmoke

Whatprimevalyendrawsustothefire?Thealluringperfumeofwoodsmokeseemstobeckonusoutdoorstogatheraroundthebackyardbarbecueandbearwitnesstothepowerofsucculentsmokedmeats.Thepromiseofatenderrackofspareribsorabiteofbeefbrisketstraightoutofthesmokerisenoughtomakeyouforgetjusthowpracticalsmokingreallyis.Smokehaslongbeenusedasamethodofmeatpreservationincultures

aroundtheworld.Woodsmokenaturallyslowsthegrowthofharmfulorganisms.Phenoliccompoundsandformaldehydecontainedinsmokeareantimicrobial.Plus,smokeemitsacidsthatcreateaprotectivelayerontheoutsideofthemeatthatpreventsthegrowthofsurfacemoldandbacteriathatcancauserancidity.SmokealsolowersthepHlevelonthesurfaceofthemeat,furtherdiscouragingthegrowthofharmfulorganisms.Usedinconjunctionwithbriningordrycuring,smokinghastheabilitytopreservemeatforweeks,months,orevenyears.Thesamephenols,carbonylcompounds,andorganicacidsthatprotectand

preservethemeatalsoimbueitwithanirresistibleflavor.Refrigerationandothermodernpreservationmethodshaverenderedsmokingunnecessary,buttheflavorofsmokehasadepthandrichnessthatisunparalleled.Wecontinuetosmokeourfoodsbecausewelovethetastethatitgivesthem.Smokingmeathasbecomeacraftthatwepracticeforthepurejoyitbringsus.

TheSmokehouseMuchadoismadeaboutsmokers,andtherearesomeprettyspendysmokersonthemarketthesedays.Butthesmoker,atitsmostrudimentary,isreallyjustaboxwithaninternaloranattachedheat-smokesourceandachimneythathelpstocontrolthedraftofsmoke.Itisthemeatyouputinit,thewoodyouusetosmokeit,andthecareyougiveitthatmakethefinishedproductgreat.Choosingthesmokerthatisrightforyouandyourneedsisapersonaldecisionthatwilldependonyourfrequencyofusage,thegeneralquantitiesofitemsyouwanttosmoke,youravailablespaceandenvironment,andyourbudget.Youmayfindthattherearesomebellsandwhistlesthatyoumusthaveandothersthatyoucandowithout.Thatsaid,hereareafewbasicfeaturestoconsider.

ControlYourself:Athermostatordampersthatallowyoutocontrolthedraftisessentialforcontrollingthetemperatureofthesmoker.Athermometertotaketheambienttemperatureoftheinsideofthesmokerandaprobethermometertotaketheinternaltemperatureofthemeatarealsonecessary.

HangUps:Youwillneedhooksandbars,racks,orscreenstohangorrestthemeaton.Stainlesssteelisalwaysagoodchoiceforhardware,asitissturdy,cleansupeasily,andresistsrusting.

JustAddWater:Regulatinghumidityinsidethesmokechamberhelpstokeepthemeatmoistthroughout.Coldsmokingusuallyrequiresahumiditylevelofabout75percent.Thehumiditylevelforhotsmokinggenerallyrangesfrom50to60percent.Humiditysensorsormetersarehandytohelpyoutogaugetheneedformoreorlesshumidity.Toaddhumiditytothesmokechamber,useawaterpan(somesmokerscomeequippedwithawaterpan,butyoucanalsosimplyfillapanwithwaterandplaceitinthesmoker).Soakingwoodorwoodchipsforthefirealsohelpstocreateamorehumidenvironment.

GASSTINKS

Mercaptansarethestinkyorganiccompoundsredolentofrotteneggs,decomposingcabbage,orbadbreaththatareaddedtopropaneandnaturalgas.Theyarehighlydetectable,evenatonlyafewpartspermillion,whichisexactlywhytheyareusedinodorlessgasandpropane.Theyimmediatelysignalthepossibilityofahazardousleaktothehumannose.Althoughtheyserveavaluablefunction,foodexposedtomercapatanscanpickupunwantedbitterorunpleasantflavors.Sticktocharcoal,electric,orall-wood-firedsmokerstoavoidthestink.

TheWoodpileAllnaturalhardwoodsandfruitwoodscaninfuseyourmeatwitharangeofdifferentaromas.Eachwoodcreatesauniquesmokeandflavor.

Alderisareliablebasicwoodwithanatural,subtlesweetnessanddelicateflavorthatworkswellwhenblendedwithother,morenuancedwoods,suchasappleorcherry.

Almondisaclean-burningwoodthatcancreateagoodbitofheat,makingitexcellentforstartingafireandcreatingabedofcoalstowhichyoucanaddotheraromaticwoods.

Appleimpartsasweetandfaintlyfruityaromathatisperfectforbacon,ham,andporkchopsbutmildenoughforpoultryaswell.

Cherryaddsalight,sweetflavorwhenblendedwithmorestronglyflavoredwoodssuchasalder,oak,orhickory.

Grapevineshaveadistinctiveflavorthatworkswellwithgamebirds.Theyareperfectforaddingshortburstsofheatoraquickinfusionofsmokewhengrilling,butnotgreatforlongersmokeperiods,astheytypicallyburnquickly.

Hickoryprovidesastrongandpungentsmokyflavorthatisclassicforsmokingbeefbutoftentoointenseformoredelicatelyflavoredmeats.

Maplehasasweetanddelicatearomaandisbestcombinedwithoak,apple,oralderforsmokinghams,bacon,orbirds.

Mesquiteisoily,burnshot,andhasanintenseandsometimesoverpoweringflavor.Itisbestusedintandemwithothertypesofwood.

Oakisthestandard,all-purposechoice,heavilyfavoredbycompetitionbarbecuefolkforitsstraightforwardflavor.Althoughitcanburnhotbutbecauseitisverydense,itwillalsoburnslowly,makingitoptimalforsmokinglargecuts.

Pecanislikeamilderversionofhickory.Itburnsslowlyandatalowertemperaturethanmostwoods,butitsfruitysmokeispungentandisbestusedinmoderation.

HotandColdSmoking

Therearetwotypesofsmoking:coldandhot.Coldsmokingisusedtoflavorthemeatratherthancookit.Themeatisplacedinanunheatedchamberandthesmokeisfunneledinfromafirebox.Smokehousetemperaturesforcoldsmokingshouldbebelow100°F(38°C).Wooddust,chips,orpelletsworkbestforcoldsmoking,astheywillsmolderandsmokeatalowertemperature.Hotsmokingisakintoslowroastingwiththeadditionoffragrantsmokeandisusedtocookthemeatthoroughly.Smokehousetemperaturesforhotsmokingrangefromabout160°Fto185°F(70°Cto85°C).

SmokingBasics

1.Fatisyourfriend.Thenaturallayerofsubcutaneousfatontheoutsideofthemeataswellastheampleintramuscularfatormarblingwillhelptokeepthemeatmoistandflavorfulduringitslong,slowsmoke.

2.Formthepellicle.Beforeyourbrined,dry-cured,orseasonedmeatssetfootin

thesmoker,theyneedtobeair-driedsothattheyformapellicle,atackycoatingofproteinsonthesurfaceofmeatthatallowssmoketobetteradheretothesurface.Air-drythemeatsuncoveredintherefrigerator,preferablyonarackorhangingfromahooktoensuretheydrycompletelyandevenly.

3.Removeanylingeringash.Makesureyouremovetheashfromtheprevioussmokingsessionbeforeyousmoke.

4.Glovesaregood.Heavy,nonflammableworkglovesaregreatforprotectingyourdigitswhenfutzingwiththefireandpokingaroundinthesmokehouse.

5.Lightyourfirenaturally.Avoidusinglighterfluidoranyotherchemicalproductsthatcouldproduceunpleasantflavors.

6.Letyourcoalsburndown.Beforeyouplacemeatinsidethesmokehouse,letyoucoalsburndowntothepropertemperature.

7.Startyourmeatfatsideup.Asthefatbeginstomelt,itwillbastethemeat,keepingitjuicy.

8.Slowandlowisthepitmaster’smantra.Thereshouldbenoflames,noflare-ups,andnosizzleatanypoint.Ifyoudohaveaflare-uporifthesmokehousegetstoohot,removethemeatandletthingscooloffbeforecontinuing.Smokingattoohighofatemperaturewilldryoutyourmeatandreduceyouryield.

9.Usetwothermometers.Youneedonethermometertomonitortheambienttemperatureofthesmokehouse,andasecondonetokeeptrackoftheinternaltemperatureofthemeat.Evenifyoursmokedmeatsarewellcookedandweremadewithoutcuringsalt,theywilloftenhavearosyinterior.Sometimes(ifyou’relucky)theywillhaveavividpinkringaroundtheirexterior,thecovetedsmokeringthatistheHolyGrailofbarbecueenthusiasts.

10.Letitrest.Aswithmanycookedmeats,letyoursmokedmeatrestforatleast10to15minutesbeforeslicingandserving.

Pastrami

PASTRAMI

Pastramiisaprojectwellworththeeffort.Onebiteofthissmoky,spicybrisketandyoumightneverslumitatthesupermarketagain.Sometraditionalpastramirecipescallforsteamingthemeatinadditiontosmoking,butinthisversionthesteamingandsmokinghappensimultaneously,resultinginameltinglytenderbrisket,readytosliceandheapontosturdyryebread.MAKES1WHOLEPASTRAMI,ABOUT8

POUNDS(3.6KG)

CornedBeefBrisket

SPICEMIX

½cup(40g)corianderseeds,toasted¼cup(35g)peppercorns1tablespooncumin

seeds,toasted¼cup(40g)yellowmustardseeds½cup(55

g)Spanishunsmokedpaprika1½teaspoonsgroundcayenne¼cup(55g)firmlypackedbrownsugar

Patthebrisketwithpapertowelstoremoveanyexcessmoistureandallowittoair-dryatroomtemperatureforabout1hour.Placethebrisketonalargebakingsheet.Tomakethespicemix,inaspicegrinder,combinethecoriander,peppercorns,

cumin,andmustardseeds.Transfertoasmallbowl,addthepaprika,cayenne,andsugar,andmixwelltodistributetheingredientsevenly.Coverthebrisketevenlywiththespicemix,pattingitonratherthickly.

Refrigerateuncoveredovernight.Thefollowingday,prepareyoursmokehouse,followingtheguidelineslisted

forHotandColdSmoking,andheattoabout165°F(75°C).Ifyoursmokerisequippedwithawaterpan,fillit.Ifnot,fillaDutchovenwithwater,bringtoarollingboilonthestovetop,andthencarefullyplaceitinthebottomofthecabinetordirectlyinthecoals,dependingonthedesignofyoursmoker.This

regulatesthetemperatureandhelpstocreatesteamtokeepthebrisketmoistandtender.Placethebrisketinthesmoker.Tendtothefireandmaintainaconsistenttemperatureasneeded.Smokethebrisketforabout3hours,untilathermometerinsertedintothe

centerregistersabout150°F(65°C).Letthebrisketrestforatleast30minutesbeforeslicingandserving,orlet

coolcompletelytoroomtemperaturebeforewrappingtightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigeratingifyouprefertoenjoyitcold.Itwillkeepwellintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

PulledPork

PULLEDPORK

Wecanthinkoffewbetterwaystospendalazysummerdaythantoslowlysmokeaporkshouldertotenderperfectionandthenshreditbitbybitintoasteaming,irresistiblemess.Andtherearefewbetterwaystofeedacrowdthanwithamessofpulledpork.Traditionalistsandkeepersofthebarbecueflameneedtoknowthat

thisrecipedoesnotclaimtoascribetoaparticularstyle,wearanypedigreeofauthenticity,orchallengethecherishedrecipeofyourgrandpa.Butitisquitetastyandworthagoevenfortheseasonedpitmaster.Thebrinebeginstenderizingthemeatandthelong,leisurelysmokefinishesthejob.Whenallissaidanddone,thisshouldershouldbesotenderitpracticallyshredsitself.MAKESAMESSOFPULLEDPORK,

ENOUGHTOSERVE10TO12

1skinless,bonelessporkpicnicshoulder,butterfliedandsoakedinGarlicBrinefor3daysBlackCoffeeandBourbonBarbecueSauce

Lineabakingsheetwithakitchentowel.Removetheporkfromthebrine,placeitonthepreparedbakingsheet,andrefrigerateuncoveredovernighttodry.Thefollowingday,prepareyoursmokehouse,followingtheguidelineslisted

forHotandColdSmoking,andheattoaboutto180°F(82°C).Placethepicniconarackinthesmoker.Openthepicnicupfullytoexposeamaximumofsurfacearea.Putapanunderneaththeracktocatchanydrippingsthataccumulateasthepicniccooks.Tendtothefireandmaintainaconsistenttemperatureasneeded.Slowlysmokethepicnicforabout4hours(farbeyondwell-done),untila

thermometerinsertedintothethickestpartofthemeatregisters175°F(80°C).Theconnectivetissuewillhavealmostcollapsedandthemeatwillbetenderandobscenelyflavorful.Removethepicnicfromthesmokerandsetitonatraytorest.Whenitiscool

enoughtohandle,breakitapartintochunksaboutthesizeofyourthumb.Place

themeatinapotandstirinenoughofthebarbecuesauceandthedrippingstocoatthemeatwell.Placeoververylowheatandkeepatabaresimmerfor30minutes,untilthemeatabsorbsthesauce.Tasteforseasoningandaddmoresauceasdesired,thenserve.

CowboyBeans

O

8

ACCOUTREMENTS

necannotsubsistonmeatalone.AttheFattedCalf,weofferallmannerofseasonalpicklesandpreserves,mustardsandchutneys,crunchyvegetablesandheartylegumestoaccompanyourroasts,pâtés,salami,andsmokedandcuredmeats.Servedatopasandwich,alongsideasausageorspoonedovergrilledmeats,theseaccoutrementsservetoprovidebalancetotherichflavorsofcharcuterie.

BREADANDBUTTERPICKLES

AttheFattedCalf,wemakebucketsfulofthesepicklesthroughoutcucumberseason.Alittlelesssweetandalittlemorepiquantthantraditionalbreadandbutterpickles,theyareagreatadditiontoburgers,anexcellentaccompanimenttosmokedmeats,andawelcomecomponentofanycharcuteriespread.Youwillfindendlessexcusestoeatthemwithmeatygoodsorallbytheircrunchy,sweetlyspicedselves.Ajaroftheseirresistiblechipsneverlastslong,whichiswhythisrecipemakesthreejars.Choosecucumbersthatarefirm,brightgreen,andnomorethan5inches(12cm)long.MAKESABOUT3QUART(3L)JARS

4pounds(1.8kg)picklingcucumbers6cups(1.4L)cidervinegar,plusmoreifneeded3½cups(660g)firmlypackeddarkbrownsugar¼cup(70g)fineseasalt1½tablespoonsyellowmustardseeds½teaspoonallspiceberries1teaspoonceleryseeds½teaspoongroundturmeric1yellowonion,diced1redsweetpepper,seededanddiced6clovesgarlic,lightlycrushed3driedcayennechiles

Topreparethecucumbers,placetheminalargecontainer,addcoldwatertocover,andletsoakfor30minutes.Removefromthewater,trimawayanyremnantsfromtheblossomends,andmakesurethecucumbersaresqueakyclean.Drainthecleanedcucumbersinacolander.Usingamandolineorasharpknife,slicethecucumbersintochipsabout⅛

inch(3mm)thick.Dividethecucumbersevenlyamong3sterilizedquart(orliter)canningjars.Tomakethebrine,inasaucepan,bringthe6cups(1.4L)vinegartoarapid

simmeroverhighheat.Addthesugarandsaltandstirtodissolve,thenlowertheheattomedium.Addthemustardseeds,allspice,celeryseeds,turmeric,onion,sweetpepper,garlic,andchilesandsimmerforabout5minutestoallowthe

flavorstocommingle.Carefullyladlethebrineoverthecucumbers,distributingtheseasoningsas

evenlyaspossible.Makesurethecucumbersaresubmergedinthebrine.Topthejarswithadditionalvinegarifnecessary,allowingabout½inch(12mm)headspace,thenlidthejarstightly.Afterthejarshavecooledenoughtohandle,turnthemupsidedownandcontinuetocoolcompletelytoroomtemperature.Placeuprightintherefrigerator.Letthepicklessitintherefrigeratorforafewdaysbeforeeatingtoallowtheir

flavorstomeld.Theywillkeepintherefrigeratorfor4to6weeks.Ifyoupreferlongerstorage,processtheliddedjarsinahot-waterbath.

WATERBATHCANNING

Canningpicklesandpreservesguaranteesareadysupplyofyourfavoriteaccompanimentsyear-round.Themostcommon,safest,andsimplestmethodiswater-bathcanning.Justplaceyourchutney,mostarda,orpicklesintosterilizedglassjarsandsubmergetheminapotofsimmeringwatertocook,or“process.”Asthejarscookinthewater,theircontentscreatesteamthatpressesagainstthelidofthejarandforcesairoutoftheheadspace.Whenthejarshavefinishedprocessingandtheyarelefttocool,thesteamcondensesintowater,leavingavacuumthattugsinwardonthelid,sealingthejarandcreatingthecharacteristiccanningpop.Toprocessyourhomemadepicklesandpreserves,

youwillneedapotfittedwitharackandglasscanningjarswithlids.Traditionalcanningpotshaveaspeciallyfittedcanningrackandarehighlyrecommended.Ajarlifterandacanningfunnelarealsohandy.1.Startclean.Makesureallofyourcooking

implementsandworksurfacesarecleantoavoidanycontamination.

2.Checkyourjarsforanynicksorcracks.Suchimperfectionscanharborbacteria,andanyfracturesinyourjarsarelikelytoruptureduring

thewater-bathprocessing.Ifyouareusingglassjarswithlidsandscrew-onbands,thejarsandbandsarereusableiftheyareingoodcondition,butthelidsmustbeusedonlyonceforsafety.

3.Sterilizeyourcanningjarsandlidseitherbyrunningthemthroughthedishwasherorbywashingthemwithhot,soapywaterandrinsingthemwithboilingwater.

4.Setthejarsasideinawarmlocationwhileyouprepareyourpickles,chutney,sauce,ormostarda.

5.Fillacanningpotalittlemorethanhalffullwithwaterandbringtoalivelysimmer.

6.Fillthejars,leavingalittlespacebetweenthecontentsandtherim—thisistheheadspace—toallowforexpansionduringprocessing.About½inch(12mm)isstandard.

7.Wipetherimsofthejarscleanandsealthejarswiththeirlids.Becarefulnottoovertightenthelids,asairneedstobeabletoescapeduringprocessing.

8.Placethejarsinacanningrackandlowerthemintothewater.Makesurethetopsofthejarsarecoveredwithwaterbyatleast1inch(2.5cm).

9.Lidthepotandturnuptheheattobringthewatertoaboil.

10.Oncethewaterisboiling,setatimer.Wegenerallyprocesspint(480ml)jarsfor20to25minutesandquart(liter)jarsfor30to35minutes.

11.Turnofftheheatandletthejarssitinthewaterbathfor5minutes.Layadishtowelonyourcountertop.Carefullyremovethejarsfromthepot,placeonthetowel,andleaveundisturbedforabout12hours.

12.Checkeachjartomakesureitisproperlysealed:Ifthelidisconcaveanddoesnotgivewhenpressed,thesealisgood.Ifthelidmovesupanddown,thesealfailedandthejarshouldbestored

intherefrigerator.

Properlysealedjarscanbestoredinacoolcupboardforuptoayear.Onceopen,storerefrigerated.

CLASSICCUCUMBERDILLS

Unlikemostpickles,whicharemadewithavinegar-basedbrine,thesournessofthesepicklesisderivedfromthefermentationprocess.Fermentationcanbeunpredictable,though,andovertheyearswestartedaddingasmallamountofvinegartoactasacatalystandregulator,producingaveryconsistentdillpickle.Whenpickingyourpeckofpicklingcucumbers,you’llneedtobechoosy.Thequalityandfreshnessofthecucumbersisofutmostimportanceinthisrecipe.Pickfirm,relativelysmall(somewherearound4inches/10cmlong),evenlyshapedpicklingcucumberswithoutbruisingorabrasions,preferablywiththestemendintact.Grapeleaves,richintannins,helptopreservethecucumbers’crunchyquality.MAKESABOUT4QUART(4L)JARS

8cups(2L)hotwater¼cup(70g)fineseasalt½cup(120ml)whitewinevinegar4pounds(1.8kg)veryfreshpicklingcucumbers½teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1teaspoonpeppercorns1½teaspoonscorianderseeds2allspiceberries1driedbayleaf1driedcayennechile3clovesgarlic,lightlycrushedSeveralsprigsdill,or1to2dillflowers4freshgrapeorhorseradishleaves

Pourthewaterintoalargepitcherorothervesselwithaspout.Addthesaltandstirtodissolve.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenaddthevinegar.Meanwhile,preparethecucumbers.Inalargecontainer,soakthecucumbers

incoldwatertocoverfor30minutes.Removefromthewaterandcarefullycheckeachoneforbruising.Discardanythatarenotuptosnuff.Trimawayanyremnantsfromtheblossomendsandmakesurethecucumbersaresqueakyclean.Anyunwantedelementscanruinanentirebatch.Drainthecleanedcucumbersinacolander.Measurethemustardseeds,peppercorns,coriander,andallspicetogetherinto

asmallbowlandmixwell.Breakthebayleafandcayennechileeachintothirds.Havethegarlicanddillready.Placeagrapeleafinthebottomofa1-gallon(3.8L)jarorcrock.Arrange

one-thirdofthecucumbersontopoftheleaf.Addone-thirdofthemixedspices,1garlicclove,1or2sprigsofdill,and1pieceeachofbayandcayenne.Followwithanothergrapeleafandanotherlayerofcucumbersandseasonings,andthenrepeatwiththethirdleafandathirdlayer.Youwanttodistributetheseasoningsevenlythroughout,butdon’tstressoutaboutbeingtooexact.Topwiththeremaininggrapeleaf.Pourthecooledbrineoverthecucumberstocover.Weightthecucumberssothattheystaysubmergedinthebrine.Wegenerallyuseasmallceramicplate,sometimestoppedwithasmalljarofwaterforadditionalweight,althoughsomecrockscomeequippedwithfittedstonesspeciallymadeforthejob.Lidthejarorcrockandstoreinacool,preferablydarklocation.Checkthepicklesafter4or5days.Athinlayerofwhitefilmmayappearon

thetopofthebrine.Thisisanaturalby-productofthefermentationandcanbeskimmedoff.Usingtongs,removeapickleandtaste.Itshouldbemildlysourorhalfsour.Ifyouenjoythisdegreeofsourness,youcanrefrigeratethepicklesimmediatelytoslowthefermentation.Forstronger-flavored,brinierpickles,continuetofermentthepicklesatroomtemperatureforanadditional4or5days.Keepthefinishedpicklesrefrigerated.Althoughtheywillkeepforabout3

months,theyareoptimalduringtheirfirstmonth.Overtimetheymaybecomelesscrunchy,butwillstillbedelicious.

PICKLEDREDONIONRINGS

Perkypickledredonionsareahappyadditiontoanyplate.Strewthemoverabirriataco,tossthemintosalads,laythematopyourUglyBurgerortuckthemintoyourfavoritesandwichtoaddapungentbite.Thissimplebrinecanalsobeusedtopicklepearlonions,agreatadditiontococktails.MAKESABOUT1QUART(1L)JAR

3largeredonions,slicedintoringsabout⅛inch(3mm)thick2cups(480ml)redwinevinegar⅓cup(65g)sugar2teaspoonsfineseasalt3or4sprigsmarjoramorthyme3allspiceberries1freshordriedchile(optional)

Placetheslicedonionsina1-quart(1L)jar.Inasmallsaucepan,combinethevinegar,sugar,andsaltandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat,stirringtodissolvethesugar.Addthemarjoram,allspice,andchileandsimmerfor2minuteslonger.Carefullypourthehotbrineovertheonionsandletcooltoroomtemperature.Coverandrefrigerateovernightbeforeserving.Althoughtheseonionswill

keeprefrigeratedforseveralmonths,theyareattheirbestduringthefirst4weeks.

Fromleft:Loulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruits,CherryMostarda,BreadandButterPickles,CherryMostarda,GreenTomatoChutney,ClassicCucumberDills,MarinatedOlives,PickledRedOnionRings

LOULOU’SGARDENSWEET-AND-SAVORYFRUITS

WefirstbegansellingourcharcuterieattheSaturdayfarmers’marketinBerkeleyatastandjustnextdoortoCaseyHavre,proprietressofLoulou’sGardenandmakerofincrediblejams,pickles,andpreserves.ThisrecipewashandeddownfromCasey’sgreat-auntLouise,whowouldprepareitwithherownhome-grownfigs,driedinthecellar.Asatreat,AuntLouisewouldwrapasliceofsalamiaroundthesweet-and-savoryfigsforyoungCasey.Welovethissweet-and-savoryconcoctionpairedwithsalamiand

othercuredorsmokedmeats,too.Oncethefruitsarefinished,reduceanyleftoverbrinetoasyrupyconsistencyanddrizzleovergrilledporkorduck.MAKES2PINT(480ML)JARS

3cups(360ml)redwinevinegar½cup(120ml)balsamicvinegar½cup(170g)honey1cup(150g)driedfigs½cup(75g)raisins1cup(130g)driedapricots1cup(180g)driedpearhalves4árbolchiles3or4clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole2driedbayleaves2smallcinnamonsticks,or1largecinnamonstick,brokeninhalf

Inasaucepan,combinethevinegarsandhoney,placeovermediumheat,andbringtoasimmertodissolvethehoney.Looselypackthefigs,raisins,apricots,andpearsinto2cleanpint(480ml)

jars,puttingaboutone-fourthofthefruitineachjar.Addhalfofthechiles,garlic,bay,andcinnamon.Addtheremainingfruitstothejars,dividingthemevenlyandleaving½-inch(12mm)headspaceatthetop.Slowlypourthehotvinegarsyrupoverthefruits,immersingthemcompletely.Releaseanyairbubblesbygentlyproddingthefruitwithachopstick.Lidthejarsandrefrigerate.Allowthefruitstomacerateforatleast1week

beforeserving.Thefruitswillkeepwellrefrigeratedforupto2months.Alternatively,afterscrewingonthelids,processthejarsinahot-waterbathfor20minutesasinstructed,thenstoreinacoolcupboardforupto1year,refrigeratingthejarsoncetheyhavebeenopened.

MARINATEDOLIVES

AfewslicesofSaucisseSecauxHerbesdeProvence,aglassofpastis,andabowloftheseolivesarethenextbestthingtoavacationontheFrenchRiviera.Warmingthearomaticgarlic,spices,andcitrusintheoliveoilallowstheflavorstobloom.Besuretoservetheseolivesatroomtemperatureorslightlywarmed.MAKESABOUT3CUPS(430G)

3cups(430g)mixedolives(suchaspicholine,tournante,Gaeta,niçoise,andArbequina)½cup(120ml)oliveoil1driedcayennechile½teaspoonfennelseeds,toasted

3clovesgarlic,lightlycrushed1driedbayleaf1sprigthymeWidestripsofzestof1lemonororange½cup(120ml)drywhitewine

Placetheolivesinacolanderandrinsebrieflyundercoolrunningwater.Inasmallsaucepan,combinetheoliveoil,chile,fennelseeds,garlic,bay,thyme,andzest.Placeoverlowheatandheatgentlyfor5minutes,thenstirintheolivesjusttowarm.Turnofftheheatandaddthewhitewine.Letcoolslightlybeforeservingor

refrigerateforlateruse.Althoughtheywillkeepwellrefrigerated,theyarebesteatenwithin3weeks.

ROOTVEGETABLECHOWCHOW

Chowchowisasweet-and-spicymixed-vegetablepickleperfectfortoppingasausagesandwichorforenjoyingalongsidesmokedorgrilledmeats.Althoughtypicallymadewithamixofsummervegetablessuchascucumbers,greentomatoes,andsweetpeppers,ChrisLohman,ourresidentcountryboyandpickleaficionado,developedthisrecipetotakeadvantageofsweet,crunchyrootvegetablesinthewintermonths.MAKES

2QUART(2L)JARS

1cup(120g)peeledandjuliennedcarrot1cup(120g)peeledandjuliennedturnip1cup(120g)peeledandjuliennedrutabaga1cup(120g)peeledandjuliennedceleryroot1cup(120g)peeledandjulienneddaikon2cups(240g)peeledandjuliennedgoldenbeet2cups(140g)thinlyslicedgreencabbage1yellowonion,thinlysliced1tablespoonfineseasalt2cups(480ml)cidervinegar,plusmoreifneeded1cup(240ml)water1cup(200g)sugar2teaspoonschileflakes2teaspoonswholeyellowmustardseeds1½teaspoonsgroundyellowmustardseeds1teaspoonceleryseeds1teaspoongroundturmeric

Inalargecolander,tosstogetherthecarrot,turnip,rutabaga,celeryroot,daikon,beet,cabbage,andonion.Addthesaltandgentlymassageintothevegetablestoencouragethereleaseofwater.Setthecolanderoverabowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateovernight.Thefollowingday,packthevegetablesinto2cleanquart(liter)jars.Discard

anyliquidthathasaccumulatedinthebowl.

Tomakethebrine,inasaucepan,combinethe2cups(480ml)vinegar,water,sugar,chileflakes,wholeandgroundmustardseeds,celeryseeds,andturmeric.Placeovermediumheatandbringtoarollingboil,thenremovefromtheheat.Carefullypourthebrineintothejars.Makesurethevegetablesarefully

submergedinbrine.Topthejarswithadditionalvinegar,ifnecessary.Lidthejarstightly.Aftertheyhavecooledenoughtohandle,turnthejarsupsidedownandcontinuetocoolcompletelytoroomtemperature.Placethejaruprightintherefrigeratortostore.Itisbesttoletthechowchow

sitforafewdaysbeforeusingtoallowtheflavorstodevelop.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforabout1month.

TRADITIONALSAUERKRAUT

Crunchy,tangy,naturallyfermentedsauerkrautisacharcuteriestaple,providingacounterpointtothesmoky,fattymeatsinmanyclassicpreparations,fromAlsatian-styleChoucrouteGarnitoastackedpastramisandwich.Sauerkrautissimplycabbagemixedwithsalt,andmakingyourown

sauerkrautiseasyandsatisfying.Asturdystonecrockistheoptimalfermentationvesselforyourkraut.Itsthickstonewallshelptokeepthekrautataconsistenttemperature.Somecrocks,suchastheonesmadebyGermanmanufacturerHarschGairtopf,areevenoutfittedwithweightsdesignedtokeepthecabbagesubmergedinitsbrineandwithagutterarounditsrimthatallowsyoutocreateanairtightwaterseal.Butwehavealsomademanyagreatbatchofsauerkrautusingabucket,aplate,awaterjug,andalooselyknottedtrashbag.Thisrecipecallsfor10pounds(4.5kg)ofcabbage,whichmayseem

likealot,butkeepinmind,oncesalted,thecabbagelosesvolumedramatically.Ifyouwouldliketomakemoreorless,justbesuretouse3percentsaltbyweightforwhateveramountoftrimmedcabbageyouchoosetouse.MAKESABOUT4QUARTS(4L)

10pounds(4.5kg)greencabbage,outerleavesremoved,quarteredthroughthestemend,andcored4.8ounces(152g)fineseasaltOPTIONALSPICES

½teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1teaspoonpeppercorns½teaspoonallspiceberries2or3wholecloves

Lightlyrinsethetrimmedcabbageundercoolrunningwater.Slicecrosswiseintoribbonsabout⅛inch(3mm)wide.Placetheslicedcabbageinalargebowlorcontainerandtosswiththesalt.Tohelpbegintheextractionofwater,lightlykneadthesaltintothecabbage.Whenthecabbagebeginstoreleasesomeliquid,afterabout30minutes,pack

itintoacleanceramiccrockorbucket,ahandfulatatime,pressingdownaftereachaddition.Whenallofthecabbageanditsjuiceshavebeenaddedtothecrock,weightthecabbage.Ifyourcrockdoesnotcomeequippedwithfittedweights,useaheavyceramicplate,toppedwithajugofwaterforadditionalweight.Pressdownlightlyontheweights.Thebrineshouldriseupatleast1inch(2.5cm)abovethesurfaceofthecabbage.Ifthecabbagehasnotproducedenoughbrine,youcanadd1cup(240ml)watermixedwith½teaspoonfineseasalttoraisethelevelofthebrine.Tokeepoutunwantedelements,lidyourcrock,orifyourcrockdoesnothave

alid,looselycoveritwithalargetrashbag.Storethecrockinacool,darklocation.Abasementorgarageisbest.Checkthecrockeveryfewdaystomakesurethebrinelevelstayswellabove

thesurfaceofthecabbage.Skimoffanywhitefoamthatappearsonthesurface.Sauerkrautcangiveoffastrong,sometimesunpleasantodorwhilefermenting,whichisnotindicativeofthefinalproduct.Thefermentationgenerallytakesabout4weeks,butitcantakelesstimeinthewarmermonthsormoreduringcoolertimesoftheyear.Tastethesauerkrautafter2weeksandmonitoritsprogress.Whenithasachievedalevelofsournessyouenjoy,removeitfromthecrock,packitintocleanglassjars,andrefrigeratetoarrestthefermentation.Itwillkeepwellrefrigeratedfor3to4months.

CHERRYMOSTARDA

WheneverwetraveltoItaly,westockuponolioessenzialedisenape(essentialoilofmustard),theingredientthatgivesmostardadifrutta,atraditionalnorthernItalianaccompanimenttoboiledorroastedmeats,itssharpzing.EssentialoilofmustardisdifferentfromthemustardoilcommonlysoldinIndiangroceries.Itisconcentrated,extremelypotent,andpotentiallydangerousifusedincorrectly.OutsidenorthernItaly,thisolioisuncommonandhighlyregulated.WewerequiteluckyonarecenttriptostumbleintotheAnticaErboristeriaRomana,ashoeboxofashopsomewhereneartheeyeofRome’slabyrinthinecenterthatislinedfromfloortoceilingwithcuriouscabinetsandtinyspice-filleddrawers.WhentheproprietorreappearedfromthebackroomwiththreetinybottlesandmanyItalianwords(andgestures)ofwarning,wewereelated.Mostardawouldbeonthemenu!Evenwithoutthefewcoveteddropsofessentialoilofmustard,this

mostardaisasweetlypiquantfoiltoearthysalumi,decadentpâtés,androastedduckorpork.Italsomakesanimpressivestuffingforporkloinsandshoulders.Althoughcherriesareapersonalfavoriteinthisrecipe,youcansubstituteapricots,peaches,nectarines,orpeeledanddicedpearsforasimilarlyzestyconcoction.MAKESABOUT2PINT(480ML)JARS

1½pounds(680g)cherries1½cups(300g)sugar⅓cup(75ml)whitewinevinegar¼cup(40g)yellowmustardseeds,lightlytoastedandground

¼cup(40g)yellowmustardseeds,lightlytoasted

¾teaspoonseasalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1or2dropsessentialoilofmustard(optional)

Stemandpitthecherries,reservingthepits.Placethepitsonasquareofcheesecloth,bringtogetherthecorners,andtiesecurelywithtwinetomakea

sachet(oruseamuslinbag).Inasaucepan,combinethesugarandvinegarovermediumheatandheat,

stirringtodissolvethesugar.Cookforabout10minutes,oruntilsyrupy.Addthecherriesandthesachetandcookforabout10minutes,untilthefruitbeginstosoften.Addthegroundandwholemustardseeds,cookfor2minutesmoretothicken,thenpullofftheheat.Stirinthesaltandpepperandcarefullyadministerthedropsofmustardoil.

Letcoolinthepanatroomtemperature.Removeanddiscardthesachet.Tasteforseasoningsandadjustifnecessary,thenpourintocleanpintjarsandrefrigerate.Themostardakeepswellrefrigeratedfor2to3weeks.Forlongerstorage,processthejarsinahot-waterbathfor20minutesasinstructed,thenstoreinacoolcupboardforupto1year,refrigeratingthejarsoncetheyhavebeenopened.

GREENTOMATOCHUTNEY

Atthetailendoftomatoseason,thereisalmostalwaysanabundanceofgreentomatoesthatmustbeharvestedbeforethefirstfrost.Aftereatingourfilloffriedgreentomatoandbaconsandwiches,weturntheremainderintothisdelicatelysweetandspicychutney.Slatheritonameatloafsandwich,serveitalongsideanassortmentofterrines,orstuffitinsideaporkroastbeforesmokingorroasting.MAKESABOUT3PINT

(480ML)JARS

1cup(240ml)cidervinegar1cup(220g)firmlypackeddarkbrownsugar2cups(320g)dicedyellowonion½cup(75g)dicedredsweetpepper2driedcayennechiles2teaspoonspeeledandfreshlygratedginger1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds4allspiceberries2½pounds(1.2kg)greentomatoes,coredandcutintolargecubesFineseasalt

Inalargesaucepan,combinethebrownsugarandvinegarovermediumheatandbringtoasimmer,stirringtodissolvethesugar.Simmer,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,untilthickandsyrupy.Addtheonion,sweetpepper,chiles,ginger,mustardseeds,andallspiceandsimmerfor5minutes.Addthetomatoes,seasonwithsalt,andturndowntheheattolow.Cook,stirringoccasionally,forabout12to15minutes,untilthetomatoesaresoftenedandthemixtureisthickandjammy.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Pourintocleanpintjars,letcool,

thencoverandandrefrigerate.Thechutneykeepswellrefrigeratedfor3to4weeks.Forlongerstorage,processthejarsinahot-waterbathfor20minutesasinstructed,thenstoreinacoolcupboardforupto1year,refrigeratingthejarsoncetheyhavebeenopened.

BLACKCOFFEEANDBOURBONBARBECUESAUCE

Strongblackcoffeeandalongpourofbourbongivethisbarbecuesaucealittlebackbone.ItisessentialforPulledPorkandisagreatmopforanysmokedpork,beef,orchicken.Usegood-qualitycoffeeandbourbonandbesuretostirinanysmokymeatdrippingsyouhaveonhand.MAKES

ABOUT4CUPS(960ML)

1½cups(360ml)redwinevinegar1½cups(360ml)ketchup1cup(240ml)porkbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)½cup(110g)firmlypackeddarkbrownsugar½cup(120ml)freshlybrewedstrongcoffee¼cup(60ml)bourbonSmoked-meatpandrippings,forflavoring(optional)Fineseasalt

Inasaucepan,simmerthevinegarovermediumheatuntilreducedbyabouthalf.Addtheketchup,broth,sugar,coffee,bourbon,anddrippings,stirwell,andsimmer,stirringfrequently,forabout30minutes,untiltheflavorsblendharmoniously.Removefromtheheatandseasonwithsalt.Serverightaway,orletcool,cover,andrefrigerateforupto1week.

CHILETOMATOSAUCE

ThissweetandrichlyspicedsaucecameintobeingoneSeptemberafternoonduetoanoverabundanceofripetomatoesandpeppersfromourgarden.Ithasbecomemorecommonplacethanketchupatourtable,ago-tocondimentfortacos,lambburgers,orgrilledchicken.YoucanalsostiritintoasimplebeefsteworsimmerLambandHerbMeatballsinit.MAKESABOUT3PINT(480ML)JARS

2½pounds(1.2kg)tomatoes1pound(450g)redsweetpeppers4to6ounces(115to170g)hotredchiles(suchasjalapeñoorserrano)1largeyellowonion,quartered6clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole1teaspooncuminseeds,toasted

½teaspoonpeppercorns,toasted6allspiceberries1wholeclove¼cup(60ml)

oliveoilFineseasalt

Preheatthebroiler.Placethetomatoes,peppers,chiles,onion,andgarliconalargebakingsheet.

Slipthevegetablesunderthebroilerandbroil,turningasneededtocolorevenly,for5to7minutes,untiltheskinsofthetomatoes,peppers,andchilesblister.Removefromthebroilerandletthevegetablescooluntiltheycanbehandled.Peelandseedthetomatoes,peppers,andchiles.Workinginbatches,combine

thetomatoes,peppers,chiles,onion,andgarlicinafoodprocessorandpureeuntilsmooth.Inaspicegrinder,combinethecumin,peppercorns,allspice,andcloveand

grindfinely.Heattheoliveoilinalarge,sturdypotovermediumheat.Carefullypourin

thepuree,thenaddthegroundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Stirwell,turndowntheheattolow,andsimmerforabout30minutes,untilthesaucehasthickened.Pourthesauceintocleanglassjars,letcool,thencoverandrefrigerate.The

saucekeepswellrefrigeratedforupto1week.Forlongerstorage,processthe

jarsinahot-waterbathfor20minutesasinstructed,thenstoreinacoolcupboardforupto1year,refrigeratingthejarsoncetheyhavebeenopened.

HORSERADISHSALSAVERDE

Freshhorseradishrootisgnarly,dullbrown,andvirtuallyodorless.Butwhenfreshhorseradishispeeledandgrated,itproducesapowerfulorganosulfurcompound,akintomustardoil,thatcanclearthesinusesandbringontears.Italsoaddsadeliciouskicktosaucespairedwithroastedandgrilledmeats,suchasthisspicyversionofsalsaverde.Choosehorseradishrootsthatarefirmandwrinkle-free.Peelonlyas

muchofrootasyouintendtograte,leavingtheremainderintact.Freshlygratedhorseradishshouldbeusedimmediatelyorstoredcoveredinvinegartoavoiddiscolorationandbitterness.MAKESABOUT2CUPS(480

ML)

¾cup(45g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼cup(15g)choppedfreshoregano¼cup(35g)rinsedandchoppedcapers1tablespoongarlicpoundedtoapasteinamortarwith¼teaspoonfineseasalt2tablespoonsfreshlygratedhorseradishGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon¾cup(180ml)extra-virginoliveoilFineseasalt

Inabowl,combinetheparsley,oregano,capers,garlic,horseradish,andlemonzestandmixwell.Stirinthelemonjuiceandoliveoil,thenseasonwithsalt.SalsaVerdeisbestservedthesameday.

CÉLERIRÉMOULADE

CélerirémouladeisasubiquitoustothetraditionalFrenchcharcuterieascoleslawistotheclassicAmericandelicatessen.Inthissimplepreparation,rawceleryrootisshreddedanddressedwithanassertivemayonnaisetemperedwithcrèmefraîche.Onceyouhavepeeledandjuliennedtheceleryroot,tossitimmediatelywiththelemonjuice,asitdiscolorsquickly.Thisderigueursaladisperfectforanypicniclunchorcharcuteriespreadandmakesagreatsideforsandwiches.SERVES6TO8

4celeryroots,peeledandjuliennedFineseasalt½cup(120ml)freshlysqueezedlemonjuice1egg

¾cup(180ml)oliveoil1tablespoongarlicpoundedtoapasteinamortar½cup(120ml)crèmefraîche⅓cup(70g)Dijonmustard½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper½cup(30g)choppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Seasontheceleryrootwithsalt,thentosswith2tablespoonsofthelemonjuice.Transfertheceleryroottoasieveplacedoverabowlandleavetoweepwhileyouwhisktogetherthedressing.Inabowl,whisktheegguntilblended.Veryslowlywhiskintheoliveoilto

emulsify.Whentheemulsionisthick,whiskinthegarlic,theremaining6tablespoons(90ml)lemonjuice,thecrèmefraîche,themustard,andthepepper.Discardanyliquidthathasaccumulatedinthebowlbeneaththesieve,then

transfertheceleryroottothebowl.Pourabouthalfofthedressingintothebowlandmixbyhandtocoat.Continuetoadddressingtotaste.Youmanynotneedallofit.Foldinabouttwo-thirdsofthechoppedparsley,thensprinkletheremainingparsleyoverthetopjustbeforeserving.Thissaladisisbestpreparedandservedthesameday.

SIMPLEBEANS

Beans,simplyprepared,areagreataccompanimenttoroastedandsmokedmeats.AttheFattedCalf,wepreparebeansalmostdailyforsalads,asasidedishtoenjoywithourroasts,andforaddingtosoups.Wealsosellatremendousamountofdriedheirloombeansforpeopletocookathomewithsausages,hamhocks,andbacon.Ourmethodologyforcookingbeansisfairlysimple:youmustbeginwithgoodbeans,preferablyaflavorfulheirloomvariety,suchascranberry,flageolet,GoodMotherStallard,orYellowIndianWoman,andpreferablynotmorethanayearold.Beansthathavebeensittingonthestoreshelforinyourcupboardfortoolongwillnottasteasdeliciousandaremorelikelytocookunevenly,resultinginbeansthatarecrumblyorhardatthecenter.Forperfect,creamy-texturedbeanseverytime,buybeansfromagoodsourceandfollowthissimplemethod.MAKESABOUT8CUPS(1.6KG)

1pound(450g)driedbeans1tablespoonlardorpandrippings1cup(170g)mincedyellowonion1driedbayleafFineseasalt

Rinsethebeanswellinseveralchangesofwater,thenplaceinalargebowl,addwatertocoverby3to4inches(7.5to10cm),andletsoakforatleast4hoursoruptoovernight.Donotsoakbeansforlongerthan12hours,asoversoakingcanleadtounevencooking.Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).Chooseagood,ovenproofpot.Clay-potenthusiastswilltellyouthatbeans

cookedinaclaybeanpotarebetter,andweareinclinedtoagree.Butifyoudonothaveaclaypot,asturdyenameledcast-ironpotorheavyDutchovenalsoworkswell.Ideally,thepotshouldbelargeenoughsothatoncethebeansandwaterareinit,itisroughlyonlyhalffulltoallowforexpansionandgoodaircirculationduringcooking.Setthepotonthestovetopoverlowheatandaddthelard.Whenthelardis

melted,addtheonionandgentlysweatforabout10minutes,untiltenderandtranslucent.Drainthebeansandaddthemtothepotalongwiththebayleaf.Add

enoughwatertocoverbyabout2inches(5cm).Bringthepottoasimmer,cover,andplaceintheoven.Monitortheprogressofthebeansevery30minutesforthefirsthour,then

every15minutesafterthat.Differentbeanscooksatdifferentrates.Somebeanscookrapidlyandwillbedoneinlessthan1hour.Otherswillrequire3hoursorlonger.Mostfallsomewhereinbetween.Ifthelevelofthewaterbeginstodropandthebeansareindangerofbeingexposed,addmorewater.Whenthebeansbegintosoftenbutarenotquitedone,seasonwithsalt.Startwithasmallamount,about1½teaspoons,thenaddmoretotaste.Continuetocookthebeansuntiltheyareevenlycooked,withacreamytextureandtenderskin.Thebeanscanbeservedjustastheyare,straightfromthepotwithadrizzleof

goodoliveoilandahandfuloffreshlychoppedherbs,ortheycanbeusedinoneofthefollowingrecipes.Tostorethebeans,letthemcoolintheircookingliquidandthenrefrigerateintheliquidforupto3days.

COWBOYBEANS

Thetinypinkpinquitobean,nativetotheCentralCalifornia’sSantaMariaValley,makesameanpotofbeans.Simmeredwithsweetpeppersandhotchiles,thesebeansareaperfectsideforgrilledandsmokedmeats.PopularthroughoutthewesternUnitedStatesandnorthernMexico,theyareathomewithbothbarbecueandMexican-inspireddishes.Youcansubstitutegood-qualitypintoorothersmallpinkbeansifthepinquitosproveelusive.Seephoto.SERVES8

1pound(450g)driedSantaMariapinquitobeans,cookedasdirectedinSimpleBeans

1cup(140g)finelydicedbacon,homemadeorstore-bought1whiteonion,diced1redsweetpepper,seededanddiced1tablespoonchoppedgarlic1or2driedárbolchilesFineseasalt1cup(250g)tomatopuree1½cups(360ml)porkbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)1sprigoregano1sprigepazote(optional)

Havethebeansreadyintheircookingliquid.SlowlyrenderthebaconinaDutchovenorclaypotovermediumheat.Whenthebaconreleasessomeofitsfatandbeginstobrown,addtheonion,sweetpepper,garlic,andchilesandstirwell.Seasonlightlywithsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout10minutes,untiltheonionandpepperaretender.Addthetomatopuree,cookfor5minuteslonger,thenaddthebroth,oregano,andepazote.Drainthecookedbeans,reservingtheircookingliquid.Addthebeanstothe

potalongwithenoughofthecookingliquidtocoverthebeansbyabout½inch(12mm).Bringtoasimmerandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Turndowntheheattolowandsimmergentlyforabout45minutestomarrytheflavors.Alternatively,ifthecoalsinyourgrillareglowing,thebeanscanbesimmeredoverindirectheatwheretheirflavorwillbenefitfromtheperfumeofthewoodsmoke.Servehot.

FagioliAll’uccelletto

FAGIOLIALL’UCCELLETTO

InItalian,anuccellettoisa“littlebird.”Thischarminglynameddishtranslatesto“beanscookedinthestyleoflittlebirds.”Simmeredinanherbaceoustomatoandredwinesaucewithahintofcuredpork,itisoneofthemostrequestedrecipesattheFattedCalf,wherewemakeitfrequentlytoaccompanyroastedorbraisedmeats.Forasimple,heartysupper,addafewlinksofSausageConfitjustbeforetoppingthebeanswithbreadcrumbsandbaking.SERVES8

1pound(450g)driedborlotti,cranberry,orcannellinibeans,cookedasdirectedinSimpleBeans

1cup(140g)finelydicedpancettaorguanciale,homemade(seePancettaArrotolataorGuanciale)orstore-bought1cup(150g)finelydicedyellowonion½cup(70g)peeledandfinelydicedcarrot½cup(70g)finelydicedceleryorfennel2tablespoonsmincedgarlic1driedcayennechile1cup(240ml)dryredwine1½cups(375g)tomatopuree1½cups(360ml)porkorduckbroth(seeBasicRichBroth)2tablespoonschoppedfreshsavory1tablespoonchoppedfreshsage2cups(115g)freshbreadcrumbs2tablespoonspandrippingsorlard

Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).Havethebeansreadyintheircookingliquid.Slowlyrenderthepancettaina

Dutchovenorclaypotoverlowheat.Whenthepancettareleasessomeofitsfatandbeginstobrown,addtheonion,carrot,celery,garlic,andchileandstirwell.Seasonlightlywithsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout12to15minutes,untiltheonion,carrot,andceleryaretender.Pourinthewineand

tomatopureeandsimmeruntilreducedbyaboutone-third,thenaddthebroth,savory,andsage.Drainthecookedbeans,reservingtheircookingliquid.Addthebeanstothe

potalongwithenoughofthecookingliquidtocoverthebeansbyabout½inch(12mm).Bringtoasimmerandadjusttheseasoningsifnecessary.Inasmallsaucepan,meltthedrippingsoverlowheat.Addthebreadcrumbs

andstirtocoat.Spoonthebreadcrumbsevenlyoverthebeans.Transferthepot,uncovered,totheovenandbakeforabout1hour,untilthebreadcrumbsaregoldenbrown.Servehot.

BUTCHERSHOPLINGO

Butterflied:Thistermisusedtodescribeacutofmeatthatisslicednearlyinhalf,paralleltothecuttingboard,leavingasmallhingeononesidethatallowsthemeattobeopenedlikeabook(orthewingsofabutterfly).Thistechniqueisoftenusedtocreateapocketforstuffings.

CavemanorFlintstoneChop:Athickbeeforporkloinchopwiththeribandpartofthebellystillattached.

CertifiedHumane:Acertificationandlabelingprogramdesignedtoensurethatanimalsraisedforfoodaretreatedhumanelythroughouttheirentirelives,frombirthtoslaughter.Thestandardsthatmustbemetincludeanutritious,healthfuldietwithoutantibioticsorhormones,accesstoshelter,sufficientspacetomovefreely,theabilitytoengageinnaturalbehaviors,andalow-stressslaughter.

DryAging:Aprocessinwhichmeat(mostoftenbeef)ishunginacold,controlledenvironmentforaperiodoftime(usuallyseveralweeks)toimproveflavorandtexture.Duringdryaging,naturalenzymesbreakdowntheconnectivetissueandencouragelossofsomemoisture,whichconcentratestheflavor.

EnglishCut:Termusuallyappliedtolambchopscutthroughbothsidesofthebackboneandloin.Itcanalsorefertootherspecialtybutchers’cutsfromtheUnitedKingdom.

Farce:Alsoknownasforcemeat.Amixtureofchoppedorgroundrawmeatandfatusedtomakesausage,salami,galantines,terrines,pâtés,loaves,orothermeatypreparations.

Free-RangeorFreeRoaming:Termtypicallyusedtodescribepoultrythathasbeenallowedaccesstotheoutdoorsforpartofitslifebutisnotnecessarilypasturedorraisedoutdoors.

Frenched:Describesabone-incutofmeat(generallyarackorchop)thathasbeentrimmedtoexposetheboneforthesakeofappearancesakeonly.

Glove-boned:Alsoknownassemiboneless.Atermusedtodescribequailorsmallbirdsthathavehadalloftheirbones,exceptforthetinywingandlegbones,removed.

GrainFinished:Thepracticeoffeedingcattleandotherruminantsgrain(usuallycheapcornorsoybeansonlargerfactoryfarmsorfeedlots,butsometimesmorenaturalgrains,suchasbarleyandrice,onsmaller-scaleoperations)toimprovetheflavorandincreasethefatcontentofthemeat.

GrassFed:Describesthetraditional,slow-growingmethodofallowingruminants(cattle,sheep,andgoats)tograzeonfreshpasturetobenefitthehealthandqualityoflifeoftheanimalsandtoproducemeatthatismorehealthfulandmorenatural.

Halal:TermusedforfoodproductsthatarepreparedaccordingtoIslamiclawandunderIslamicauthority.Itprescribesaspecificmethodofslaughterthatcallsformakingadeepincisioninthethroattocutthecarotidartery,windpipe,andjugularveinandthenbleedingtheanimalcompletelybeforeprocessing.

Heritage:Abreedoffarmanimalwithdistinctivecharacteristicsnotsuitedtointensivemodernfarmingandthereforeendangeredorrare.

Hormone-andAntibiotic-Free:Adifficulttoverifyclaimmadebytheproducerthatnohormonesorantibioticshavebeenadministeredtotheanimal.

Kosher:TermusedforfoodproductsthatarepreparedaccordingtoJewishlawandunderrabbinicalsupervision.Itprescribesthatanimalsbeslaughteredbyasingle,precisecutacrossthethroat,whichcausestheanimaltobleedtodeath.

Natural:Termusedtodescribeaproductcontainingnoartificialingredientoraddedcolorthatisonlyminimallyprocessed(orprocessedinawaythatdoes

notfundamentallyaltertheproduct).

Organic:Termthatindicatesthatthefoodhasbeenproducedthroughapprovedmethodsthatintegratecultural,biological,andmechanicalpracticesthatfostercyclingofresources,promoteecologicalbalance,andconservebiodiversityandavoidstheuseofsyntheticfertilizers,sewagesludge,irradiation,andgeneticengineering.

Pastured:Termappliedtoanimalsthatareraisedmostlyoutdoors,wheretheycanroamfreelyinanaturalenvironmentandgrazeongrassesorforageforplants,insects,rootsandotherfoods.Thispracticeensuresabetterlifefortheanimals,limitsenvironmentalpollution,andyieldsmeatanddairythatismorenatural,nutritious,andbettertastingthanwhatisproducedonfactoryfarms.

PorterhouseChop:Abeef,pork,orlambchopthatincludesthetopoftheloinaswellassomeofthetenderloinorfillet.Somefolksconsiderthischopthebestofbothworlds.

Poussin:Ayoungchicken,generally4to6weeksold.

PrimalCut:Alargesectionofmeatthatisseparatedfromthecarcassduringbutcheringandfromwhichretailcutsarefabricated.

Prime,Choice,andSelect:DesignationsinthevoluntaryUSDAgradingsystemforandbythebeefindustry,inwhichfederalinspectorsassignaqualitygradetoeachbeefcarcassduringprocessing.Primeisthebestgrade,choiceisgood,andselectisacceptable;belowthatisthestuffthatgoesintoprocessedandpetfoods.Theawardingofgradesisbasedontheamountofmarblinginthemeatandtheageoftheanimal,withthegoalofcreatingstandardsofqualityinmarketing.Manygrass-fedbeefproducerseschewthissystembecauseitprizesgrainfinishinganddoesnottakeintoaccounttheoverallhealthoftheanimal.

SilverSkin:Thethinlayerofwhiteorsilver-coloredconnectivetissuefoundonthemeatofbeef,pork,andlamb.

Spatchcock:Abutcheringtechnique(akaspattlecock)thatremovesthebackbonefrompoultryorgameinordertoflattenthebodyinpreparationforgrillingorroasting.

SpringLamb:Amilk-fedlamb,usuallybetween3and5monthsold,thathasborninlatewinterorearlyspringandbroughttomarketbeforeJuly1.

T-Bone:Abeef,pork,orlambchopsimilartoaporterhousebutwithasmallersectionofloinattached.

WetAging:Amisleadingmarketingtermcoinedformeatthatisstoredinvacuum-sealedplasticbags(whichistheindustrynorm,notatechnique)ratherthandryaged.

SOURCES

Mail-OrderMeatBrokenArrowRanch

brokenarrowranch.com(800)962-4263

FattedCalfCharcuterie

fattedcalf.com(707)256-3684

HeritageFoodsUSA

heritagefoodsusa.com(718)389-0985

ParadiseLockerMeats

paradisemeats.com(816)370-MEAT

ButcheryEquipmentandSausageMakingSuppliesButcherPacker

butcher-packer.com(248)583-1250

Davison’sButcherSupply

davisonsbutcher.com(323)265-9245

EmilioMiti

emiliomiti.com

NaturalCasingCompany

naturalcasingco.com(877)515-0270

TheSausageMaker

sausagemaker.com(888)490-8525

Spices,Salts,andSpecialtyFoodsGiusto’s

giustos.com(888)884-1940

RanchoGordo

ranchogordo.com(707)259-1935

WholeSpice

wholespice.com(707)778-1750

WineForestWildFoods

wineforest.com(707)944-2334

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Notunlikethecraftofcharcuterie,makingthisbookwasaprocess—onethatrequiredthehelpofmanyhands.We’dliketoexpressoursinceregratitudetoalloftheincrediblyhardworking

peopleinthefarmingcommunitywhostrivetogrowgood,cleanfood.ThankstoLibertyDuck,MariquitaFarm,andMcCormackRanchinNorthernCalifornia;andtothefarmers,ranchers,andprocessorsintheHeritageFoodnetwork:theGoodFarm,theLayzSRanch,andtheFantasmafamilyandtheirstaffatParadiseLockerMeats.SpecialthankstoTimMuellerandTriniCampbellofRiverdogFarm,whohavenotonlyprovideduswithabountyofproduceandmeatovertheyears,butalsowerekindenoughtoletusphotographtheirinspiringfarm.It’seasiertomakegoodcharcuteriewhenyoustartwithgreatrawingredients.Intheworldofculinaryarts,thereisverylittlethatisnewororiginal.Each

generationteachestheonethatfollowsit.Wehavehadthehonorofworkingwithmanywonderfulmentorsovertheyears.Thankstoallofthecooks,butchers,andcharcutierswholetusworkintheirkitchens,willinglysharedtheirknowledge,andhelpedtokeepthecraftofcharcuteriealive.Thisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithouttheextraordinary

collaborationofagreatmanypeople.Hugethanksgotoouragent,KatherineCowles,forprodding,pushing,andprovidingsageadvice.ThankstoAaronWehner,EmilyTimberlake,andBetsyStrombergofTenSpeedPressforlendingthisprojecttheirsupport,enthusiasm,andincredibletalent.ThankstoChristineWolheim,AlexFarnum,andtheirmanyassistantswho,despiteintenseheat,longdays,andanattackofthekillerbees,managedtoproducegorgeousfoodphotography.TotheincredibleteamattheFattedCalf,thankyouforprepping,schlepping,

andkeepingthingsrollingrightalong.AnespeciallybigthankstoBailie,the

beatingheartoftheFattedCalf.ThankstotheboysofGreenValleyRanchandourneighborsatRancho

Estrellaforallowingustocookinyourkitchensandtrespassonyourbeautifulland.Toourfamilyandfriends,thankyouforallofyoursupportand

understanding.Weapologizeforthemanymissedbirthdaysandunreturnedphonecallsandhopethatyouenjoythisbook.

MEASUREMENTCONVERSIONCHARTS

Volume

U.S.:1tablespoonImperial:½flozMetric:15ml

U.S.:2tablespoonsImperial:1flozMetric:30ml

U.S.:¼cupImperial:2flozMetric:60ml

U.S.:⅓cupImperial:3flozMetric:90ml

U.S.:½cupImperial:4flozMetric:120mlU.S.:⅔cupImperial:5floz(¼pint)Metric:150mlU.S.:¾cupImperial:6flozMetric:180mlU.S.:1cupImperial:8floz(⅓pint)Metric:240mlU.S.:1¼cupsImperial:10floz(½pint)Metric:300mlU.S.:2cups(1pint)Imperial:16floz(⅔pint)Metric:480mlU.S.:2½cupsImperial:20floz(1pint)Metric:600mlU.S.:1quartImperial:32floz(1⅓pints)Metric:1liter

Temperature

Fahrenheit:250°FCelsius/GasMark:120°C/gasmark½

Fahrenheit:275°FCelsius/GasMark:135°C/gasmark1

Fahrenheit:300°FCelsius/GasMark:150°C/gasmark2

Fahrenheit:325°FCelsius/GasMark:160°C/gasmark3

Fahrenheit:350°FCelsius/GasMark:180°Cor175°C/gasmark4

Fahrenheit:375°FCelsius/GasMark:190°C/gasmark5

Fahrenheit:400°FCelsius/GasMark:200°C/gasmark6

Fahrenheit:425°FCelsius/GasMark:220°C/gasmark7

Fahrenheit:450°FCelsius/GasMark:230°C/gasmark8

Fahrenheit:475°FCelsius/GasMark:245°C/gasmark9

Fahrenheit:500°FCelsius/GasMark:260°C

Length

Inch:¼inchMetric:6mm

Inch:½inchMetric:1.25cmInch:¾inchMetric:2cm

Inch:1inchMetric:2.5cmInch:6inches(½foot)Metric:15cm

Inch:12inches(1foot)Metric:30cm

Weight

U.S./Imperial:½ozMetric:15g

U.S./Imperial:1ozMetric:30g

U.S./Imperial:2ozMetric:60gU.S./Imperial:¼lbMetric:115g

U.S./Imperial:⅓lbMetric:150g

U.S./Imperial:½lbMetric:225g

U.S./Imperial:¾lbMetric:350g

U.S./Imperial:1lbMetric:450g

ABOUTTHEAUTHORS

TAYLORBOETTICHERandTOPONIAMILLERarethehusband-and-wifeteam behind the Fatted Calf Charcuterie, which opened in 2003 and now haslocationsinNapaandSanFrancisco.ThecouplemetattheCulinaryInstituteofAmerica in Hyde Park, then worked for a stint as apprentices to legendarybutcherDarioCecchini (made famous byBill Buford in hismemoirHeat) inTuscanybeforemovingtotheSanFranciscoBayArea.TheyhavebeenfeaturedinTheNewYorkTimes,Food&Wine,andSaveur,where theFattedCalfwasincluded in theeditors’ annual listof their100 favorite food itemsand trends.Visitwww.fattedcalf.com.

INDEX

AAlderwoodAll-PurposePoultryBrineAlmonds,Marsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondwoodApples,Caramelized,BloodSausagewithCognacandApplewoodApricotsLoulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruitsArmagnacCream,DuckLiverMoussewith

BBabyBackRibs,Five-SpiceBaconBrownSugar–CuredBaconChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniChoucrouteGarniClassicCassouletCowboyBeansForager’sTerrineRabbitCacciatoreSmokedPottedPork

BarbecueSauce,BlackCoffeeandBourbonBasicRecipeforBeefSausageBasicRecipeforLambSausageBasicRecipeforPorkSausageBasicRecipeforPoultryorRabbitSausage

BasicRecipeforSalamiBasicRichBrothBasicRichRoastedBrothBeansClassicCassouletCowboyBeansFagioliall’UccellettoSimpleBeans

Beefabout,3.1,3.2BasicRecipeforBeefSausageBasicRecipeforSalamibonesforbrothsBrasatoalMidoloBresaolabutcheringCarneCrudacasingscharcuterieCornedBeefBrisketcutsdry-agedfatHotLinksMeatLoafOxtailTerrinePastramiPeposoPepperonipurchasingRareRoastBeefraw,3.1,3.2RibEyeforTwosuettallowTheUglyBurger

BeerSausage,Belgian

BeetsRootVegetableChowchow

BelgianBeerSausageBirria,GoatShoulderBiscuits,FlakyLeafLardBlackCoffeeandBourbonBarbecueSauceBloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandCognacBockwurstBollitoMisto,PorkBotulism,1.1,7.1BouquetgarniBourbonandBlackCoffeeBarbecueSauceBraisedHamHocksBrandyBloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandCognacDriedFruitinBrandyDuckLiverMoussewithArmagnacCream

BrasatoalMidoloBreadChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniCroqueMonsieurstuffings

BreadandButterPicklesBresaolaBrinesAll-PurposePoultryBrineGarlicBrineingredientsinforporkandpoultrytestingsalinityof

Briningbasicsofforflavorforpreservationprocessof

Brothsaboutaromaticsfor

BasicRichBrothBasicRichRoastedBrothbonesfor,2.1,2.2brownmakingPorkandDuckNoodleSoupBrothpost-roastwhiteSeealsoSoups

BrownSugar–CuredBaconBurger,TheUglyButchers,choosingButcherybeefbirddo-it-yourselfgoathog,3.1,3.2,3.3lambrabbittoolsfor

ButterhealthandNettleButterstoringusesfor,2.1,2.2

CCabbageRootVegetableChowchowTraditionalSauerkraut

CacciatoriniCanning,waterbathCarneCrudaCarrotsClassicCassouletRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetables

RootVegetableChowchowCassoulet,ClassicCaulfat,5.1,5.2,6.1CeleryrootCéleriRémouladeRootVegetableChowchow

Charcuteriedefinitionofhistoryofkeytosuccessintastingforseasoning

TheCharcutier’sWildMushroomDuxellesCheeseCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinoCroqueMonsieurMornaySauce

ChermoulaChermoula-MarinatedPorkChops

CherryMostardaCherrywoodChestnutsCouFarciChickenaboutAll-PurposePoultryBrinebonesforbrothsChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinofatRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetablesVealandChickenGalantine

Chicken-FriedQuailChilesChileTomatoSauceGoatShoulderBirriaOaxacan-StyleChorizoPigHeadPozole

ChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniChorizo,Oaxacan-StyleChoucrouteGarniChowchow,RootVegetable

ChutneysGreenTomatoChutneyinstuffings

CiccioliCider-BrinedPorkPorterhouseChopsClassicCassouletClassicCucumberDillsClostridiumbotulinum,1.1,7.1CocktailSauceCoffee,Black,andBourbonBarbecueSauceCognac,BloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandConfitsaboutmakingSausageConfitWholeDuckConfit

CornedbeefcookingCornedBeefBrisketPastrami

CotechinoCouFarciCourtBouillonCowboyBeansCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinoCremadiLardo,TruffledCrespelleandChanterelleMushroomsinGameBirdBrothCroqueMonsieurCrostini,ChoppedChickenLiverTheCubanCucumbersBreadandButterPicklesClassicCucumberDills

CuringsaltsCurrantsDriedFruitinBrandy

DDaikonRootVegetableChowchow

DriedFruitinBrandyDrippingsDryagingDrycuringDuckaboutbonesforbrothsClassicCassouletCouFarciDuckandLemongrassSausagePattiesDuckLiverMoussewithArmagnacCreamDuckRillettesDuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHazelnutsDuckTerrinewithBrandiedPrunesfatGingeryBraisedDuckLegsPorkandDuckNoodleSoupBrothWholeDuckConfitSeealsoFoiegras

Duxelles,TheCharcutier’sWildMushroom

FFagioliall’UccellettoFarro,DuckStuffedwithFigs,Hazelnuts,andFatbeefcavitychickenduckgoosehealthandintermuscularintramuscularlambporkrendering

roleofsaturatedsubcutaneous

FennelFennel-DustedPorkShoulderSteaksharvestingRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetables

FigsDuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHazelnutsFig-and-SausageStuffedQuailLoulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruits

FiveSpiceFive-SpiceBabyBackRibs

FlakyLeafLardBiscuitsFleurdesel,1.1,1.2FoiegrasaboutcontroversysurroundingCouFarciFoieGrasTerrinewithMadeiraGeléeFoieGrasTorchonwithPortandQuatreÉpicespreparingpurchasing

Forager’sTerrineFruitsDriedFruitinBrandyLoulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruitsroleof,1.1,1.2instuffingsSeealsoindividualfruitsFunghiSott’Olio

GGalantinesaboutVealandChickenGalantine

GamebirdsbonesforbrothsCrespelleandChanterelleMushroomsinGameBirdBroth

Gamehensabout

All-PurposePoultryBrineGarlicaboutGarlicBrine

GeléeGingeraboutGingeryBraisedDuckLegs

GoataboutbutcheringcharcuterieGoatShoulderBirriapurchasing

GooseaboutbonesforbrothsCouFarcifatGooseRilletteswithBlackTrufflesSeealsoFoiegras

GrapevinesGreenTomatoChutneyGrillingGuancialeFagioliall’UccellettoRabbitCacciatore

GuineahensaboutGuineaHenRillettes

HHamaboutBraisedHamHocksbutcheringCroqueMonsieur

JambonPersilléPicnicHamSmokedHamHocks

HarissaHarissa-MarinatedLambKebabs

Hazelnuts,DuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHeadcheeseHerbsbouquetgarnidriedfreshHerbesdeProvence

HickoryHominyPigHeadPozole

HorseradishaboutHorseradishSalsaVerde

HotLinks

JJambonPersillé

KKebabs.SeeSkewersKnivesKolbász

LLambaboutBasicRecipeforLambSausagebonesforbrothsbutcheringcasingscharcuterie

fatHarissa-MarinatedLambKebabsLambandHerbMeatballsLambRibChopswithRaselHanoutpurchasingSpicedLambTerrine

Lard,SeealsoLeaflardLeaflardaboutFlakyLeafLardBiscuits

LeeksLemons,PreservedMeyerLipidhypothesisLiverChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniDuckLiverMoussewithArmagnacCreamForager’sTerrineporkpreparingSeealsoFoiegras

LoavesaboutMeatLoaf

Loulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruits

MMadeiraGelée,FoieGrasTerrinewithMaplewoodMarinatedOlivesMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondsMeatfromlocalfarmsbymailtemperingvacuum-sealedSeealsoindividualmeatsMeatballs,LambandHerb

Meatgrinders,5.1,5.2MeatLoaf

Meatthermometers,4.1,4.2MercaptansMesquiteMeyerLemons,PreservedMirepoixMornaySauceMostarda,CherryMushroomsTheCharcutier’sWildMushroomDuxellesCrespelleandChanterelleMushroomsinGameBirdBrothdriedwildForager’sTerrinefreshwildFunghiSott’OlioRabbitCacciatoreWildMushroom–StuffedPorkRibRoast

Mustard,essentialoilof

NNaturalgasNettlesNettleButterRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetables

Nitratesandnitrites,1.1,1.2NoodlesGingeryBraisedDuckLegsPorkandDuckNoodleSoupBroth

OOakOaxacan-StyleChorizoOlioessenzialedisenapeOlivesMarinatedOlivesMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondsVealandChickenGalantine

Onions

aboutBrasatoalMidolobruléePickledRedOnionRingsPigHeadPozole

OxtailTerrine

PPancettaChoppedChickenLiverCrostiniClassicCassouletFagioliall’UccellettoMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondsPancettaArrotolataPancetta-WrappedPorkTenderloinRabbitCacciatoretypesofVealandChickenGalantine

PandrippingsPastramiPâtés.SeeLoaves;Pottedmeats;TerrinesPearsLoulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruits

PecanwoodPeposoPepperoniPeppersChileTomatoSauceCowboyBeansGreenTomatoChutneyRabbitCacciatoreSeealsoChiles

PicklesBreadandButterPicklescanningClassicCucumberDillsPickledPorkTongues

PickledRedOnionRingsRootVegetableChowchow

PicnicHamPigHeadPozolePorchetta,RabbitPorkaboutBasicRecipeforPorkSausageBasicRecipeforSalamiBelgianBeerSausageBloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandCognacBockwurstbonesforbrothsBraisedHamHocksBrownSugar–CuredBaconbutchering,3.1,3.2,3.3CacciatorinicasingscheeksChermoula-MarinatedPorkChopsChoucrouteGarniCiccioliCider-BrinedPorkPorterhouseChopsClassicCassouletCotechinoCouFarcicountryrib,3.1,4.1CroqueMonsieurTheCubanDuckTerrinewithBrandiedPrunesearsfatFennel-DustedPorkShoulderSteaksFive-SpiceBabyBackRibsForager’sTerrineGarlicBrineGuanciale

hamhead,3.1,3.2HeadcheeseheartheritagebreedsHotLinksJambonPersilléjowlskidneysKolbászlardleaflardliverMeatLoafOaxacan-StyleChorizooffalPancettaArrotolataPancetta-WrappedPorkTenderloinPickledPorkTonguesPicnicHamPigHeadPozolePorkandDuckNoodleSoupBrothPorkBollitoMistoPorkBrochetteswithHerbesdeProvencePorkCheekTerrinePorkCountryRibwithSherry,Garlic,Thyme,andPimentónPorkShoulderPotRoastStuffedwithGarlic,Greens,andWalnutsPulledPorkpurchasing,3.1,3.2SaucisseSecauxHerbesdeProvenceSbriciolonashoulderskinSmokedHamHocksSmokedPottedPork

Pork,continuedtailtongue,3.1,3.2

TonnodiMaialetrottersTruffledCremadiLardoWildMushroom–StuffedPorkRibRoast

Port,FoieGrasTorchonwithQuatreÉpicesandPotatoesRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetablesPotroasting,4.1,4.2PottedmeatsaboutboundwithfatboundwithrichbrothCiccioliDuckRillettesequipmentforGooseRilletteswithBlackTrufflesGuineaHenRillettesJambonPersilléRabbitRillettesSmokedPottedPorkSeealsoTerrines

PoultryaboutAll-PurposePoultryBrineBasicRecipeforPoultrySausagebutcheringdarkvs.whitemeatpurchasingstuffingtrussingSeealsoindividualbirdsPozole,PigHead

PreservedMeyerLemonsPropanePrunesDriedFruitinBrandyDuckTerrinewithBrandiedPrunes

PulledPork

QQuailaboutChicken-FriedQuailFig-and-SausageStuffedQuail

RRabbitaboutBasicRecipeforRabbitSausagebonesforbrothsbutcheringMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondsRabbitCacciatoreRabbitPorchettaRabbitRillettessausage,5.1,5.2

RaisinsLoulou’sGardenSweet-and-SavoryFruits

RareRoastBeefRaselhanout,1.1,3.1RenderingRibEyeforTwoRillettesDuckRillettesGooseRilletteswithBlackTrufflesGuineaHenRillettesRabbitRillettes

RoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetablesRoastingaboutequipmentforpot,4.1,4.2slow

Roastsgrillingracksandpansforrestingperiodfor

seasoningtimefortying

RootVegetableChowchow

SSachetd’épicesSaladsCéleriRémouladeMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmonds

SalamiaboutbacteriaandbasicrecipeforCacciatorinicasingsforgrindingmeatforlinking,looping,andtying,5.1,5.2makingPepperonipressinglargeSaucisseSecauxHerbesdeProvenceSbriciolonaseasoningfor

Salsas.SeeSaucesandsalsasSaltforbriningfordrycuringforpreservationforroastsseasoningwith,1.1,1.2typesof,1.1,1.2,1.3

SandwichesCroqueMonsieurPulledPorkTheUglyBurger

SaucesandsalsasBlackCoffeeandBourbonBarbecueSauceChileTomatoSauce

CocktailSauceHarissaHorseradishSalsaVerdeMornaySauce

SaucisseSecauxHerbesdeProvenceSauerkrautChoucrouteGarniTraditionalSauerkraut

SausageaboutBasicRecipeforBeefSausageBasicRecipeforLambSausageBasicRecipeforPorkSausageBasicRecipeforPoultrySausageBasicRecipeforRabbitSausageBelgianBeerSausageBloodSausagewithCaramelizedApplesandCognacBockwurstcasingsforChoucrouteGarniClassicCassouletcoilingCotechinodriedDuckandLemongrassSausagePattiesDuckStuffedwithFarro,Figs,andHazelnutsFig-and-SausageStuffedQuailhotsmokingKolbászlinkingloopingmaking,5.1,5.2Oaxacan-StyleChorizopartypoachingSausageConfitseasoningchartforstuffing

instuffingstoolsformaking,5.1,5.2wrappingincaulfatSeealsoSalami

SbriciolonaScalesSeasalt,1.1,1.2Semolina,Creamy,withRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinoShallotsSimpleBeansSkewersaboutHarissa-MarinatedLambKebabsMarsha’sGrilledRabbitSpiediniwithChicories,Olives,andAlmondsPorkBrochetteswithHerbesdeProvence

SlowroastingSmearingSmokedHamHocksSmokedPottedPorkSmokingbasicsofcoldequipmentfor,5.1,7.1hot,5.1,7.1processofwoodfor

SoupsCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinoCrespelleandChanterelleMushroomsinGameBirdBrothPorkandDuckNoodleSoupBrothSeealsoBroths

SpicedLambTerrineSpicesessentialFiveSpicegrindinggrowingandforagingpurchasing,1.1,1.2raselhanout,1.1,3.1

sachetd’épicesstoringtoasting

SpinachCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorino

SquabStuffingsSuetSugarinbrinesfordrycuring

SwisschardCreamySemolinawithRoastedChickenBroth,Greens,andPecorinoPorkShoulderPotRoastStuffedwithGarlic,Greens,andWalnuts

TTallowTeaDriedFruitinBrandy

TerrinesaboutbakingDuckLiverMoussewithArmagnacCreamDuckTerrinewithBrandiedPrunesequipmentforFoieGrasTerrinewithMadeiraGeléeForager’sTerrineHeadcheeseliningOxtailTerrinePorkCheekTerrinepressingSpicedLambTerrineunmolding

Thermometers,4.1,4.2TomatoesinbrothsChileTomatoSauce

ClassicCassouletCowboyBeansFagioliall’UccellettoGoatShoulderBirriaGreenTomatoChutneyOxtailTerrine

TonnodiMaialeTorchon,FoieGras,withPortandQuatreÉpicesTraditionalSauerkrautTrufflesaboutGooseRilletteswithBlackTrufflesTruffledCremadiLardo

TrussingTurkeyaboutAll-PurposePoultryBrinebonesforbroths

TurmericTurnipsRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetablesRootVegetableChowchow

UTheUglyBurger

VVacuumpackagingVealBockwurstCouFarciVealandChickenGalantine

VegetablesRoastedNettleButterChickenwithSpringVegetablesRootVegetableChowchowinstuffingsSeealsoindividualvegetablesW

Walnuts,PorkShoulderPotRoastStuffedwithGarlic,Greens,and

WaterbathcanningWholeDuckConfitWildMushroom–StuffedPorkRibRoastWood,forsmoking