Indian Journey

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A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 86 Vol III Issue 04 April 2010 Rs. 50

Dear readers,

Once again An Indian Journey takes you on a wonderful trip across the amazing country that is India. For the ancient to the modern, this country has surprising secrets that can keep a visitor mesmerized.

The capital city, New Delhi, besides being steeped in history is home to some of the best world-class restaurants, pubs and trendy nightlife hotspots. The gleaming Golden Temple in Amritsar is an amazing sight to see. The Adalaj Vav, a stepped well in Gujarat is a marvelous structure with its walls covered in intricate carvings. And a visit to Sohra, one of the wettest places on earth throws up some wonderful surprises.

Along with modern !ne dining restaurants and ancient architectural marvels, India has a plethora of arts and crafts. The age-old traditions of embroidery and perfume making have been kept alive for generations and new artforms like photography is taking its place alongside the old.

Welcome to this diverse country and have an awesome experience.

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Ipshita Barua

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All information in An Indian Journey is derived from sources, which we consider reliable. Information is passed on to our readers without any responsibility on our part. The contents of this publication contain views of authors and are not the views of Durga Das Publications.

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Cover Photograph: Urban Pind

INDIANjourneyan where one lifetime of discovery falls short

A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 84 Vol III Issue 04 April 2010

Dear Editor, I must congratulate you on the new look and feel of An Indian Journey and I feel that it is looking very good and refreshing. Keep it up and all the best. Regards, Amit MitraGRT Hotels & Resorts

Dear Editor, I must congratulate you on bringing out an excellent publication, i.e. An Indian Journey. I particularly refer to Vol III-Issue 1, January 2010 issue, which carries a series of highly informative articles on traditions of India.With best wishes, Malay Mishra High Commissioner of India, Port of Spain

READER’S RESPONSE

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40

Contents10 NATIONAL TOURISM AWARDS 2008-09

The Ministry of Tourism honours the best performers in the travel, tourism and hospitality sector.

14 DELHI DELIGHTS!It’s not just malls, markets and monuments. There is a lot more to explore once you are in the city of Delhi. With !ne dining restaurants, pubs and lounge bars it’s a great place to let your hair down.

28 AGELESS STORIES – EMBROIDERY IN INDIAThe cultural landscape of India has been bound together by a history of trade, migration and conquest, fostering cultural interactions that in"uenced and enriched embroidery styles.

34 THE GOLDEN TEMPLE – A BEAUTIFUL OASIS Imbued with 500 years of Sikh heritage, the Golden Temple in Amritsar, Punjab is a living and mystical place of worship.The temple has many guise an it touches the soul and inspires all who pay a visit.

40 SURPRISING CHERRAPUNJEE – THE ABODE OF THE CLOUDSSet amid deep gorges and roaring waterfalls in the East Khasi Hills district of Meghalaya, Sohra abounds in myth and folklore, which are connected to its land, forests and animals.

14

58

76

44 SAMSARA-DECHU – AN ISLAND OF COMFORTA blend of traditional and modern architectural styles has created a serene oasis in hot and dry Rajasthan.

46 ADALAJ STEPWELL – A MARVEL IN WATER ARCHITECTUREThe stepwells of Gujarat are India’s wonderful but little-known contribution to architecture. An Indian Journey takes you to one such architectural wonder.

54 ORIENTAL MYSTIQUE: ALLURING ATTARSAttars are perfumes derived from plants to produce remarkably rich scents. An Indian Journey takes you on a spectacular tour of attars popular in India.

58 COMING OF AGE – INDIAN PHOTOGRAPHYIndian photographers like Amit Mehra with their talent and creativity have reshaped Indian photography and taken it beyond borders.

66 KUMBH MELA – A DIP TO THE BEYONDThe Kumbh Mela is one of the world’s largest religious gatherings where you can see hundreds of thousands of people congregate to take a holy dip in the Ganges.

REGULAR FEATURES

68 REVIEWSLatest reviews from the literary and music world.

76 KALEIDOSCOPE INDIAA splash of colours.

78 HOTSPOTSCool hotel deals this summer.

82 END NOTE

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APR

IL 6

12 13

19 20 21

26 27 28

5 YEH DILLI HAIAn exhibition of

photographs by Mukunda De Saket, New DelhiMar 28 – Apr 7

MAHAVIR JAYANTI FESTIVAL

Celebration of birthday of Mahavira, founder of JainismApr 1 - 30

TULIP FESTIVAL Srinagar, KashmirApr 5 - 15

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GAURI GILLGallerie Nature Morte, New DelhiMar 27 – Apr 24

ARTWORKS FROM NOSTALGIA ART

Triveni Kala Sangam, New DelhiApr 12 – 21

ARTWORKS BY ADITYA PANDE AND 2 SWISS ARTISTS

Chatterjee and Lal Gallery, MumbaiApr 13 – May 13

GLORE KIDZ UTSAV - CHAIN OF KNOWLEDGE & FUNGayathri Vihar, BengaluruApr 16 – 26

BRONZE SCULPTURES BY MRINALINI MUKHERJEE

Gallery Espace, New Friends Colony, New DelhiApr 15 – May 15

RONGALI UTSAVSrimanta Sankardeva Kalakshetra, Guwahati, AssamApr 1 - 30

FEAST AT EDATHUA CHURCHEdathua Church,

Alleppey, South KeralaApril 27 – May 14

KUMBH MELAHaridwar, UttarakhandJan 14 - Apr 28

2 0 1 0

WednesdayTuesdayMonday

7

BAISAKHINorth Indian New YearThroughout India, especially Punjab

14

THE DAWNExhibition of paintings and drawings by

Kanchan ChanderIndia Habitat Centre, New DelhiApr 1 - 4

1 NENMARA VALLANGI VELAAnnual festival at Nellikulangara Bhagavathy

Temple, Palakkad

2MUSIC IN THE PARKPerformance by Ustad Shujaat Khan (Sitar)

and Ustad Fahimuddin Dagar (Dhrupad) Nehru Park, New Delhi

3TAMIL NEW YEARTamil Nadu, KarnatakaApr 1 - 30

4

8 9 10 PAINTINGS BY NITI JAINShridharani Gallery, Triveni

Kala Sangam, New DelhiApr 1 - 11

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15 16 17

22

PAINTINGS MAKE ME JOYFUL!

An exhibition of paintings by Inderpreet KaurDLF Promenade, New DelhiApr 3 -13

UNTITLED GROUP PHOTOGRAPHY SHOWExhibition of photographic artRafaael’s Gallery, South DelhiMar 20 – Apr 10

PAINTINGS BY KRISHNA SEALTriveni Gallery, New DelhiApr 16 – 26

UNTITLED MULTIMEDIA SHOW Exhibition by Varun MehtaRafaael Gallery, South DelhiApr 15 – May 1

TALK - RAJ COOKING AND THE SPREAD

OF INDIAN CUISINE IN BRITAINThe Attic, Connaught Place, New Delhi

FIVE POINT SOMEONE - PLAY BY EVAMEpicentre, New DelhiApr 17 - 18

SHRI MAHAVIRJI FAIR Jaipur, RajasthanApr 24 – 30

PAINTINGS FROM AJIT KUMAR & GROUP

Shridharani Gallery, Triveni Kala Sangam, New DelhiApr 22 – May 2

23 SANJEEVANI IN A SPECTRUM An exhibition of photographs by

Shivani DassAlliance Française de Delhi, New Delhi Apr 23 - 25

THRISSUR POORAM Thrissur, Kerala

THEYYAM FESTIVALPayyannur, Kerala

Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

25

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29CHITHIRAI FESTIVAL

Commemorating the wedding of Lord Sundareswarar and Goddess Meenakshi Madurai, Tamil NaduLate April

30TIMES KIDZ WORLDWorld Trade Centre, MumbaiApr 30 – May 3

The National Tourism Awards for the year 2008-09 were presented at a glittering function at Vigyan Bhavan in the national capital on March 3, 2010. The awards were given away by the Vice-President of India, M Hamid Ansari. The National Tourism Awards are presented by Ministry of Tourism, Government of India to various segments of the travel and tourism industry every year. A total of 79 awards were given away during the function.

These awards are presented to approved travel agents and tour operators, tourist transport operators, overseas tour operators from different regions, classi!ed hotels, heritage hotels, State governments and Union Territories, individuals and other private organisations in recognition to their performances in respective !elds, and also to encourage healthy competition with an aim to promote tourism.

Speaking at the event, the Vice-President characterised tourism as the largest peace time movement of people. Addressing the travel & tourism stakeholders present, he said, “The present audience is aware that

times and technology have induced qualitative changes in the concept of tourism. Globalisation, advances in transport and communications, and the growth of the service industry have transformed modern tourism into a complex mass phenomenon. Globally, it is estimated that there were 880 million international tourist arrivals last year. This is a remarkable growth compared to 25 million international travellers in 1950.

Congratulating the winners of the National Tourism Awards, Ansari said, “These awards encourage State governments, municipalities and local government bodies, and various travel, tourist and hospitality organisations to review best practices and lost opportunities, to improve and excel.”

Speaking on the occasion, Kumari Selja, Union Minister for Tourism said that the facilities and services provided by the travel and hospitality industry to a large extent contribute to the visitor experience. It is, therefore, of utmost importance to ensure that there is no compromise on the quality of facilities and services offered.

Vice-President gives awayN!"#$%!& T$'(#)* A+!(,) -../-.0The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India presented the National Tourism Awards for the year 2008-09. The awards honour the best performers in the travel, tourism and hospitality sector.

Left to right: M Hamid Ansari, Vice-President of India; Sultan Ahmed, Union Minister of State for tourism; Kumari Selja, Union Minister of Tourism; Sanjay Kothari, additional secretary, Ministry of Tourism and CMD, ITDC; Sujit Banerjee, secretary, Ministry of Tourism

AN INDIAN JOURNEY April 201010

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The Kuoni Europe headquartered in Zurich, Switzerland is focused on its core leisure travel and destination management businesses. Kuoni Group has branch operations in more than 40 countries worldwide. In the premium and specialist segment, Kuoni is the world’s number-one provider.

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Jewel in the Crown Holidays based in UK Region has been operating charter seats to Goa for over 20 years and features all types of properties from guesthouses to !ve star hotels. Over 40 per cent of their clients are regulars who visit Goa and India annually.

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Natural Focus Safaris based in Australia specialises in offering tailor-made tours and small groups for the discerning traveller. The company, which was founded by its CEO Steve Cameron in 2000, offers extensive India programme that covers hotels, tours, rail journeys and wildlife safaris across the subcontinent.

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The Pegas Touristik based in Russia is one of the largest operators in Russia. Pegas started to operate to India (Goa) in 2004 with 900 passengers and in 2010 reached 3,500 passengers not only to Goa, but also with extension tours to North India (Agra-Delhi-Jaipur).

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The Indus Travels, headquartered in Canada, has shown exemplary results in promotion of India as a destination from North America. Indus Travels keeps up the efforts from time to time by putting together the kaleidoscope of the beautiful Indian subcontinent and presenting it to the tourist traf!c interested in India.

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High Sand Tours based in Dubai was established in 2002 with the objective of promoting India Tourism products in the region of West Asia. Presently High Sand Tours is one of the leading tour operators in Dubai with an annual turnover of half a million US Dollars.

AN INDIAN JOURNEY April 2010 11

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SR. NO.

CATEGORY WINNERS

1Tour Operator /Travel Agent Category I-(Foreign Exchange Earnings of Rs.100.00 Crore & above)

Thomas Cook, Mumbai Le Passage to India, New Delhi Kuoni Travel (India), Gurgaon

2Tour Operator /Travel Agent Category II-(Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs.50.00 Crore & Rs. 100.00 Crore)

Abercrombie and Kent, New Delhi

3Tour Operator /Travel Agent Category III-(Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs.25.00 Crore & Rs. 50.00 Crore)

Minar Travels ( India), New Delhi Tamarind Tours, Mumbai Orient Express, New Delhi

4Tour Operator /Travel Agent Category IV-(Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs.10.00 Crore & Rs. 25.00 Crore)

Trail Blazer Tours India, Noida Travel INN (India), New Delhi Hi Tours (India)

5Tour Operator /Travel Agent Category V-(Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs.5.00 Crore & Rs. 10.00 Crore)

Indian Panorama, Trichy Namaste Tours, Gurgaon Holidays to Treasure India Tours, Gurgaon

6Tour Operator /Travel Agent Category VI-(Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs.2.50 Crore & Rs. 5.00 Crore)

Sai Voyages, New Delhi Flexi Tours, New Delhi Nandi Travels, New Delhi

7Tourist Transport Operator - Category I (Foreign Exchange Earnings of Rs. 1.50 Crore & above)

Ajay Travels, New Delhi Mercury Car Rentals, New Delhi Rajindra Bus Service, New Delhi

8Tourist Transport Operator - Category II (Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs. 50 Lakh & Rs. 1.50 Crore)

Alwar Tourist Transport Service, New Delhi Ex-Soldiers Tourist Taxi Service, New Delhi Jayasree Travels & Tours Company, Thiruvananthapuram

9Tourist Transport Operator - Category III (Foreign Exchange Earnings Category III (Foreign Exchange Earnings between Rs. 25 Lakh & Rs. 50 Lakh)

Heat Travels & Tours (India), Siliguri

10 Domestic Tours Operators - Rest of India Southern Travels, New Delhi Yatra Online, Gurgaon Choudhary Yatra, Nashik

11Domestic Tours Operators - North East Region including Sikkim

Heat Travels & Tours (India), Siliguri


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delhi D2&#76")9

TEXT: ANU SINGH

Malls, markets and monuments…If you think Delhi is just this, then we suggest you to read on to know that the Indian capital is also a powerhouse of rock bands, !ne dining eateries, and ‘the’ lounge bar destination.

It is happening. It is sophisticated. It is traditional. It is modern. It is Delhi we are talking about. The capital of India, is always thought of as a historical city with only monuments and the old part of

the city to see. But, it is time the world learnt that Delhi has much more to it. Bright lights, pulsating music, rock culture, beer bars and cool eateries. Hard to believe? Well, ladies and gentlemen, sit back and let An Indian Journey take you through Delhi’s happening places.

Gluttony is No Sin in Here… There are some who eat to live, but if you are in Delhi, you’ve got to live to eat. Delhi gives you the option of choosing from every possible cuisine that you have ever tasted. Of course, Indian cuisine tops the list which includes food from all over the country. But, that’s not everything. You want Thai or great Italian pasta? It’s right here. French is your taste? You won’t be disappointed. Mediterranean, Mexican, modern European, Burmese, Korean, Middle Eastern… Delhi has it all. The best part is that the "avours are authentic.

Previous page: Manre MGF Mall, SaketAbove and left: Smokehouse Grill, GK IIFacing page: Sushi Bar, Yum Yum Tree, New Friends Colony


Named after a small town in the Champagne, France, Manré is where the swish set of Delhi go when they want a taste of French cooking with a modern European "avour. With chic and stylish interiors, Manré in MGF Metropolitan Mall, Saket, has become the choice of the rich and famous. Yet another place to !nd exquisite modern European cuisine is de!nitely Smoke House Grill in upmarket Greater Kailash II. With a focus on creativity the chefs here use fresh ingredients to create contemporary European cuisine. The twin level bar and restaurant have interiors tastefully punctuated by Japanese minimalism. With a blend of unobtrusive music and wonderful food you can relax with some award winning and radical cocktail mixes. But come Friday, the place rocks with the popular Retro Nights.

Also in GK II is Diva, one of the pioneers of authentic Italian cuisine. It has only got better with time. Connoisseurs of good food would give it top rating among Italian restaurants in the city. Diva offers some amazingly good quality low and middle end wines (a whopping 450 wines as they claim) to go with your food. If your knowledge of wines is limited, you don’t have to worry. The staff members here are perfectly trained. In fact, they would also recommend which wine would go well with which dish.

Speaking of Italian food, if you aren’t in the mood for a lavish spread you can head straight to Amici in Khan Market. Though there are several other good brands that offer wonderful Italian food, Amici is becoming the choice of many. Their pizzas, breads, desserts and all things Italian are freshly prepared and delectable. Being here is like being in an Italian café setting with aromatic coffees to go with.

When you talk of food in Delhi, it would be blasphemous not to talk about the ever popular Chinese food. Gourmet Chinese with a Singaporean soul is what Ginger Moon in Khan Market is all about. This 38-seater restaurant has signature Chinese red and white colours in linen and crockery while the colour pallet has reds and browns all around. Sit here, relax and order your favourite Chinese and end with a cup of Chinese "ower tea.

But, Delhi is not all just about Italian and Chinese. Talk of Thai food, and you get loads to choose from. Spicy, tangy and fresh "avours of Thai soups and curries at Ego Thai remind you of the land it comes from. Thai interiors and oriental music add to the charm. Do not leave the place till you taste their freshly prepared pizzas. Another place to visit is Spice at the beautiful Garden of Five Senses. Eating here is like ‘alfresco dining uninterrupted’. Prepared by Thai chefs, the food here is cooked in original herbs and secret ingredients which the chefs refuse


an array of dishes from contemporary China, Singapore to Shanghai. It also houses India’s !rst Conveyor Belt Sushi restaurant at The Oriental Grill. You will surely be spoilt for choice with an eclectic mix of fresh and fragrant grills and curries, from the streets of Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Japan and Singapore to choose from.

Fine dining is !ne, but Q’BA restaurant and bar in Connaught Place offers a space for some casual dining experience. This 14,000-sq ft space with two "oors and two open air terraces with beautifully designed interiors is the perfect place for a business lunch or just a casual meet over food and drinks.

Having mentioned all of the above is not to say that Indian food isn’t what you should go for. It’s the food of any country that makes you understand the country. And, there are so many to choose from, but one place that would be recommended by anyone you know in India is Not Just Paranthas. Those familiar with Indian food would know that a parantha is a stuffed Indian bread. The stuf!ng could be of just about anything edible, and Not Just Paranthas offers over a 100 varieties of paranthas. Right from the ever popular aloo parantha to prawn parantha, to kebabs in pocket paranthas, you get every variety of paranthas here. A staple breakfast dish of Indians around the world, paranthas here are served in a setting that is straight out of Purani Dilli (Old Delhi). A must-visit!

to share! While you are here you can consider taking a romantic walk around the garden to !ll up your senses. Talk of romantic getaways and the perfect place to be at is Thai High at Mehrauli. Overlooking the majestic Qutab Minar and offering a spectacular view of the city’s skyline, this rooftop Thai restaurant has amazingly delicious food. Take your pick from the traditional Thai dishes created by the Head Chef Pu. With a perfect blend of great ambience and cuisine, it’s a place you will always remember.

If you want something completely different, then Sancho’s is the place. This Mexican joint at Connaught Place, offers Tex-Mex and Cal-Mex cuisine amidst a romantic, let loose ambience with lip smacking, made-to-order food. Complimenting the food are the interiors that are decorated with hand-painted tribal masks and sombreros. The artefacts displayed here transport you instantly to the wild west! Sancho’s houses the Salsa Bar, a one of its kind in India, where you can sample a variety of gourmet nachos teamed with your choice of salsa – anything from a mild Verde to a !ery Habanero! And, their desserts are simply out-of-this-world!

To satisfy your craving for exotic food, head to The YumYum Tree in New Friends Colony. Rated as one of the greatest new restaurants in 2009, it has fast grown into a great Oriental Eating House offering

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See, you’ve got options! But, again, that’s not all, for Delhi delights are not over yet. These are just some of the !ne dining options. There’s a lot more to explore once you are in the city.

It’s ‘D’ for Drinks… What is the best food worth if not accompanied by the best drinks? The epicureans in the business of food and drinks in Delhi are quite serious about giving nothing, but the best… For instance, Soak by celebrated fashion designer Ravi Bajaj on the second level of the Ravi Bajaj Emporio, is probably the only venue in the capital that has an offer of ‘wine by the glass’, rather than by the bottle. Come here and indulge in a traditional Parisian ambience for a tete-a-tete over wine or delectable tapas fare. What say… chic and cool at the same time!

For a blend of traditional yet cosmopolitan we strongly recommend the Urban Pind – The Urban Bar. As the name suggests, it is urban yet ethnic in its appeal. So, you have sophisticated interiors with walls that are adorned with Harappan seals, textured prints

Right: Exquisite Italian at Diva, GK IIBelow: Urban Pind, GK IFacing page: Soak by Ravi Bajaj, GK I

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and magni!cent Khajuraho sculptures. Sumptous meals and choicest of drinks aren’t the only thing about this lounge bar. Almost every night is special - dance your night away on Tuesdays to Salsa beats, Wednesdays are reserved for the ladies and Thursdays for foreign visitors. If you aren’t in a mood for a drink, climb up to the terrace café and enjoy a hookah. Speaking of hookahs, Mocha is another place where you can have Egyptian "avoured sheeshas. Other than this, Mocha is a contemporary haven for handpicked gourmet coffees, café-style food with Indian twists, indulgent desserts and American shakes. In fact, since 2003 Mocha has consistently won the Times Food Guide Best Coffee Shop award, after all drinks is not all about wines and whiskies. But, if it is drinks that you are speci!cally looking for then Mocha doesn’t disappoint. The Mocha Bar at Nehru Place is the home of beer, sports and rock n roll. And, the best part… it has an all-day drinking format which means you can unwind here at any time of the day! If pubbing isn’t your idea of fun, and you are more artistically inclined, Mocha ArtHouse at Vasant Kunj is where you can !nd your artistic expression while munching on experimental culinary creations offered in the café here.

A restro-bar with a difference is Trance. Delhi/NCR’s !rst lounge bar dedicated to trance music.The music here might be all trance, but the look is completely antique and rustic. You have to be here to believe it. It has Indian and Oriental traditional spice-laced cuisine, but once here, try the exotic dal (lentil) cooked for 18 hours!

And now, here’s the best for the last. If you are a beer lover, Rockman’s Beer Island and Howzatt, both in Gurgaon, are the places for you. The brewpubs serve freshly brewed beer right out of kegs. These micro-breweries maintain strict quality control which is the key to these excellent beers. So, go on and gulp to your heart’s content.

Let Your Hair Down!Eat, drink and be merry. That’s the mantra of Delhizens after a hard days work. With an abundance of places to let your hair down reserve your evenings for places that are de!ning the cosmopolitan culture of the city. The !rst in line is a favourite with all Delhiites, Café Morrison in South Extension Part-II. If the name reminds you of the great Jim Morrison, then it is rightly so, for the place is a haven for the lovers of rock music. Around 150 bands patronise this place and many of them have held their !rst concert here. Even Air Supply has visited Café Morrison and participated in a karaoke. Once you visit the place, you will know why it is the number one destination for rock fans in Delhi, and why Jack Daniels Rock Awards has awarded it India’s best Rock destination.

Though most popular, it is not the only rocking place in town. Live music lovers must visit @LIVE in Connaught Place. The place has an old world charm which complements the music. The music here is performed live, acoustic and unplugged by International Band members everyday, complete with vocals, guitars, drums and percussions.

Right: Mocha Art House, Vasant Kunj

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If you want to enjoy good food, good music, and good company head to the upmarket F Bar & Lounge at Hotel Ashok. Uber-cool and sophisticated, this is the most sought after address in town for the party animals. F Bar is all about fashion, lifestyle and entertainment. Its event calendar showcases the best from the world of live music and dance, fashion shows, national-international guest DJs along with art exhibitions, book reading sessions and supper theatre. What more can you ask for.

Amid all this excitement, the heat of summer is sure to get you down. Keep your spirits up at the Ice Lounge. India’s !rst authentic Ice Bar at MGF Metropolitan Mall, Saket. Everything at Ice Lounge is made of ice; the walls, the bar, the sculptures, the seats and even the glasses that you enjoy vodka-based cocktails in. Enjoy a blend of Lebanese, Continental and Oriental cuisine while jiving to hip-hop and psychedelic music. Sounds cool but don’t bother carrying your coats and jackets at -5 degrees Celsius all year round. You will be given a furry cape coat, insulated boots and gloves to wear before entering.

Have a rocking time whether you are on a business trip or a tourist on a wanderlust. !

Above: Ice Lounge, MGF Metropolitan Mall, SaketLeft: F Bar and Lounge, Hotel Ashok


An interesting insight from the many visitors to India who have decided to make this country their home and have grown to love and respect the myriad cultures that exist here.

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Jay Lurie’s perception

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPH: IPSHITA BARUA

Jay Lurie, who lived in New York before moving to India, is a specialist in !nance and infrastructure development. His job with an Australian company !rst brought him to this country, settling in Mumbai. More than a year and a half later, he is now based in Delhi, in

a new position for the South Asia hub for an international organisation. His work has taken him from the urban centres of Mumbai and Delhi to the remotest corners of Bihar showing him an India that very few foreigners have experienced.

Having worked in Mumbai and now Delhi, Jay feels that he is in the middle of the action in terms of growth and development. He says that India is on the cutting edge rife with investment capital, sharing of knowledge and the increasing awareness of the government for the need for infrastructure. India is poised to take on the world and it’s growth story only gets stronger, and working here at this time is challenging and also meaningful.

To make it easier for him, Jay has learnt basic Hindi, which helps him navigate the streets and interact more closely with those around him. He has also grown to love Gujarati and South Indian food, is enthralled by India’s rich cultural traditions and is amazed at the number of cultures that co-exist in such a concentrated area.

He recounts how in a short span of time he can celebrate the Sabbath with his Jewish friends (he is Jewish too), go to a Sikh wedding and dance the Bhangra till !ve in the morning, travel to Rajasthan and see ancient forts and shrines and experience deep spirituality as he takes part in a puja with the sadhus (holymen) in Orchha. And that is not all, after all this, he can still make it to Delhi for some Su! music performed at Emperor Humayun’s tomb and then attend a Parsi wedding in Mumbai. Wow!

His travels across India have taken him to the beaches of Goa and the backwaters of Kerala. He has gone skiing in Gulmarg and rafting in Rishikesh. He feels traveling here is fantastic and the destinations very accessible.

His message to a visitor to this country is to manage expectations and budget time. Don’t expect to see too much in one day. India can be exhausting and unpredictable. His advice is to harness differences and enjoy the country. India in all her versions cannot be enjoyed in one visit.

Finance and infrastructure specialist

Indian Enthusiast Ã


Sylvie’s experiences

Sylvie Vitali came to India in 2008 after having lived in China for !ve years. Originally from France, she moved here with her husband who works for a French company. Sylvie will be in India for about !ve years and she feels that she will have a great time during this

period learning about this colourful country. For her, language in this country is not a problem as most people speak a smattering of

English. While in China she could not connect with people as she could not communicate with them. Coming from China where she says there are only three colours, red, blue and grey, and the old traditions have disappeared from the streets. She is fascinated by the colours and exotic smells of India. The culture here, she says, is very confusing and she !nds it extremely dif!cult to assimilate. Sylvie has taken on the task of reading about India and trying to remember the names of the myriad gods and goddesses that exist here.

After coming to India and discovering the wealth of precious stones and gems, Sylvie has gone into the business of designing jewelry. She sells her creations at sales and exhibitions to raise funds for various non-governmental organisations. She !nds Indian jewelry beautiful and is amazed that the streets here are so full of people wearing colourful saris and jewels. And of course, absolutely fantastic are the costumes and jewels in every Indian wedding. In the west it’s all black and grey, the old traditional dresses and jewels have disappeared.

She feels that in India everything is possible and that there are creative and competent experts in every !eld. It is a land of opportunity and people can make a career in any !eld whether it is sculpting, designing or even starting a small business. Sylvie also !nds it very fascinating that people here live two lives – the rational and the spiritual, and that there is a complete balance between the two. The spiritual world is new to her and she wants to experience this spirituality.

From the spiritual world she moves on to the new India and says that the way to India becoming a super power is full of challenges. Given the size of the country and the population and the different classes aspiring and lobbying for different things, it’s a hard task ahead. But with so many educated intellectuals working towards it, India will soon become a global power, her growth path may be slow but it will be sustainable.

Her message to the newcomers to India is that the country is so complex that if you are here for a short time it is best to enjoy the sights, the sounds and the colours, and not delve too deep. But, if you live here for a long time the country will change you.

Jewelry designer

Indian EnthusiastÃ


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embroidery in indiaTEXT: RITU SETHI

Photographs by Dastkar

Embroidered motifs represent more than the embellishment and decorative surface that meets the eye. Embroideries have formed an integral part of women’s trousseau since ages. Delve into the past to know about the signi!cance of this traditional art in Indian society and the various cultural in"uences that re"ect in the modern embroidery.

Above: Ice BarLeft: F Bar

Previous page: Phulkari embroidery from PunjabFacing page: Chamba RumalAbove: Betel leaf motif, Mughal ChikankariBelow: Woman embroidering Tankha

Embroideries in India whether for daily use or as part of a wedding

trousseau have been a visual language, embedded with meaning, that have served as cultural markers of identity. An orally transmitted tradition, embroidery has played a dominant role in the history of Indian textiles re"ecting the cultural pollinations that have in"uenced the syncretic nature of society.

Sewing skills have existed in this country since the origin of cultivation and weaving of cotton in India. Though no tangible evidence of embroidered pieces are available in the Indian sub-continent prior to the late !fteenth century, archaeological !nds in the Indus Valley have unearthed bronze needles, indicating the existence of sewing skills as early as circa 2000 BC, leading to the conclusion that embroideries have been practiced in the Indian subcontinent for several millennia.

The cultural landscape of India has been bound together by a history of trade, migration and conquest, fostering cultural interactions that in"uenced and enriched embroidery styles. Fresh in"uxes of craft skills, motifs and symbolism were brought in with the spread

of religions. Along the ancient trade routes all manner of goods were sold and purchased, among them sacred and secular textiles and embroideries. Spreading across India, embroidery styles arrived from alien lands, intermingling with indigenous cultures to create new techniques and form.

Chikankari embroidery, executed on the !nest white muslin using white thread, is reputed to have been introduced into India during the reign of the Mughal emperor Jehangir (1605-27) by his Persian wife, Empress Noor Jehan. Its "oral motifs continue to be embroidered in and around the city of Lucknow to this day. The cutwork or convent embroideries of Tamil Nadu, were brought to India by the Christian missionaries who came here with the East India Company, but the tradition has been indigenised over the past hundred years. Sewn in luminous colours, the embroidered Buddhist tankhas can be seen in monasteries from Sikkim to Himachal. An eclectic mix of cultural in"uences from Persia, China, India and Britain have combined with Zoroastrian symbolism to form the hallmark of the sophisticated Parsi embroideries re"ected in the resplendent garas (saris), jhablas (jackets), and kors (borders). Cultural in"uences and embroideries originating in one culture and transferred to another took on a different meaning in their new home with motifs, colour and placements, adapted to suit the culture of the new lands.

Photograph by Ravi Kapoor

Photograph by Sharmila Wood

ÃIndian Craft

31AN INDIAN JOURNEY April 2010

Running parallel to the development of professionally embroidered goods in the karkhana workshops for the princely courts was the quiet, ongoing development of domestic embroideries. Almost always created by women in their homes for their own use or for that of their families, for gifts and as part of their wedding trousseaus, these embroidered objects were functional, utilitarian and always beautiful.

Women’s embroideries express an individual aesthetic. Representing generations of accumulated beliefs, the motifs, colours and patterns are clearly understood by those who interact with their culture. De!ning communities and tribes, embroideries help individual groups express their identities. The ethnicity and tribal af!liation of communities such as the Jats, Sodha Rajputs, Rabaris and other herding and farming communities of the Kutch and Saurashtra regions in Gujarat, the adjoining areas of western Rajasthan and the contiguous belt of the Thar Parkar region in Sindh, Pakistan, can be read from their dress and embroideries. Likewise, the distinct red, blue and black embroidery on the rough, specially woven, white cotton drape known as puthukuli distinguish the Toda tribes who live in the Nilgiri hills of South India.

Women embroider their dreams for a good husband, children, fertile harvests, and protection from ill fortune. The iconography re"ects the belief that the embroidered motifs are powerful portents and represent more than the embellishment and decorative surface

that meets the eye. Originating as a means of reusing old, cotton saris and dhotis, the Kantha embroidery of West Bengal, created layered quilts, spreads and wraps. The symbolism of an embroidered piece imbued it with an added dimension of value with symbols of blessings, protective and talismanic, embroidered on the layered cloth to be used as occasion demanded. In Karnataka, the woven blue-black Chandrakali sari presented to new brides is embellished with Kasuti embroidered auspicious motifs and symbolic blessings. An embroidered toran strung across a doorway in Gujarat does not only serve as a welcome to visitors; the embroidered motifs present powerful auspicious and protective symbols for the home. Similarly, the nomadic Banjara tribes spread across the geographic swath of Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Karnataka use mirrored embroidery to de"ect the evil eye while in the Parsi Zoroastrian embroidery tradition, the motif of the divine fungus gives protection and symbolises longevity and immortality.

Across India from the arid areas of Gujarat and Rajasthan to Karnataka in the South to Punjab in the North-West, women’s embroideries have formed an integral part of their trousseau. Embroidery requires time, concentration, skill, an aesthetic sense and an in-depth understanding of the tradition – all qualities that are looked for in a prospective bride. Young girls learn the art of embroidery from an early age as preparation for marriage. From the state Punjab

Photograph by Craft Revival Trust Photograph by Craft Revival Trust


Facing page left: Applique work from OrissaFacing page right: Embroidering a Pashmina shawlAbove: Kasuti embroidery

in India comes the Phulkari, a genre that includes the Bagh and the Chope embroideries started by the maternal grandmother and mother on the birth of her child. Wedding embroideries are made to drape the bride, be held as canopies at the wedding and as gifts to the groom’s family. The yellow or red Chope are imbued with wishes for prosperity, fertility and a loving union, and so are the splendid dowry embroideries of the Kutch and Saurashtra region in Gujarat, and western Rajasthan. In fact, embroidering for a dowry had become such an elaborate and time-consuming process that village elders of the Dhebaria Rabaris in Kutch imposed a ban on dowry embroideries to prevent the women from feeling pressured into complying with the rigorous dowry requirements.

The complexity of stories that can be told through embroideries is re"ected in domestic pictorial traditions that have been translated into embroideries, narrating folklore, legends and religious stories. The embroidered Chamba Rumals originating in the erstwhile Pahari Kingdoms, now in Himachal Pradesh are a case in point. Used as covers for ritual offerings, for gifts on ceremonial occasions and as wall hangings, the rumals depict images from the great epics of the Ramayana and Mahabharata, and the Krishna Leela. These sophisticated embroideries executed in a re!ned colour

palette were sewn by upper class women from the princely courts. The illustrations were outlined in charcoal and were often marked with suggestions on the colour scheme by skilled miniature artists who were associated with the court. Using skeins of untwisted "oss silk on a cotton base, the vividly illustrated embroidered scenes appear exactly the same on both side of the fabric. Over the last

two decades the contemporary pictorial Sujnis of Bihar, embroidered for commercial markets, are narrations that do not tell, religious stories as much as attempt to address issues of everyday existence. The embroideries tapping into the creativity of the women teem with narrative vigour, energy and minute detailing expressing surprisingly liberated images and thought.

The signi!cance of the embroiderers lie in the stories they tell and as communities grow and change, and their skills recognised and harnessed in the modern context so will the embroiderers be empowered to move with the times and keep the old traditions alive. !

Photograph by Craft Revival Trust

ÃIndian Craft

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a beautiful oasis

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS: SOLANGE HANDO

At the heart of Amritsar, a long white wall greets you with a clock tower and pretty arched windows but not the slightest hint of the wonders hidden beyond the central gate. Walk

through and as you reach the top of the steps, the Golden Temple is suddenly revealed, glorious and breathtaking, with domes and parapets mirrored in a glistening lake, cloisters, shrines, sacred trees and pilgrims’ saris "uttering in the light. Time stands still, words are few and in this beautiful oasis, spirituality becomes tangible.

Located in Bari Doab, the ‘land of two rivers’ in the Punjab, the site was known in ancient times as a place where wandering sages and holy men meditated by the lake, much smaller then and surrounded by forest. Buddha came here, they say, and he was followed some

2,000 years later by Guru Nanak, founder of the Sikh faith. Born in 1469, acclaimed as a child prodigy in divine matters, Guru Nanak travelled widely and declared ‘there is no Hindu, there is no Muslim’. Sikhism was born to bring the two religions closer together. ‘Sikh’ simply means ‘disciple’.

Around 1577, according to legend, a leper witnessed a crow turn into a swan after dipping into the lake, so the man bathed in the water and was cured. On the surrounding land, donated by the enlightened Emperor Akbar, Ram Das the fourth guru of Sikhs started to dig the large tank, now known as Amritsar, the Pool of Nectar, and a town grew around it. His successor, Arjan Dev Ji, compiled scriptures from earlier teachings, including those of Hindu and Muslim saints, and completed the Harmandir Sahib, the Temple of God. Some say a corner stone laid by a Su! saint was disturbed, thus unleashing future troubles, from Afghan and Muslim attacks to modern upheavals, but the temple was rebuilt, even more beautiful.

The year in Amritsar is punctuated with holy days, the birthday of Guru Nanak, the martyrdom of Guru Tegh Bahadur, the founding of the Khalsa, the ‘order of the pure’ to which all Sikhs aspire, or Diwali, the joyful festival of lights. On this auspicious morning, the

Previous page: The lake around the TempleAbove: Nihang Sikhs in traditional gearLeft: Pilgrims enjoying the serenityFacing page: Volunteers at the langar (open kitchen)


Golden Temple was celebrating the creation of the Holy Book and devotees came from afar, by car, bicycle or on foot, all carrying red "ags along the way to show their purpose. Young men covered their head with orange bandanas, women clutched copies of the book, others prepared offerings of sacred leaves, a few men bathed in the reserved section of the lake to purify their body and soul while newly-wed couples prayed for blessings and a happy future. All proceeded clockwise around the tank, on the circumambulatory marble path highlighting their spiritual journey. Unlike traditional temples with a single entrance, the Golden Temple has four gates to symbolise that it is open to everyone, regardless of creed or caste. Ablutions, bare feet and covered head are the only requirements for entry, alongside common rules of respect and decency.

It was a bright autumn day and only a few "uffy clouds scurried across the sky, sprinkling a little shade here and there, changing the mood as if by magic. From morning to dusk, the Golden Temple has many guises but whatever the time, the seasons or the sky, it touches the soul and inspires all who pay a visit. Many come to witness the daily procession when the Holy Book is carried from the Akal Takht, its nightly abode and seat of Sikh authority, to the Golden Temple’s inner

sanctum where it is read continuously during the day. Rose petals may be scattered along the path while drums and "utes enhance meditation, focussing on the name of God. The Holy Book, or Adi Granth, commands profound respect, having been proclaimed the Guru Granth Sahib, the Eternal Guru, by the tenth and last human Guru, Gobind Singh, in 1708.

We strolled along the path, stopping frequently to gaze in wonder at the marble walls and gilded domes where the light seemed to bounce and splash in myriad re"ections. Sometimes, a whiff of breeze sent ripples across the water then all settled down again as if nothing had ever happened. We lingered by a holy shrine where "ower petals spelt words of welcome, rested in the shade of a Beri tree and were offered ice cold water at one of the open stands manned by volunteers. A lonely man walked towards us and sprayed rose water to freshen the air.

Seva, or voluntary work, is part of the Sikh way of life and in the Golden Temple, the dining hall is a prime example. Thousands of people are fed here every day as men and women offer their services, cooking and cleaning for free. By mid-morning, the hall was already busy, steaming lentils, chapattis, clattering dishes, but no empty

Indian Religion Ã


chatter. There was much to do and all who came were keen to lend a hand. Meanwhile in a nearby courtyard, men were staging a mock sword !ght, much to everyone’s amusement. The sword is seen as an important tool to defend the oppressed and the weak, and the Khalsa disciples dressed in blue and gold carried the symbolic weapon.

We returned to the water’s edge through a side gate festooned in tinsel and lights, and !nally made our way towards the Darshani Deorchi, the stunning gate decorated with silver opening onto the causeway, which leads across the water to the inner sanctum. Truly privileged, we joined the long orderly queue waiting to enter this most sacred part of the Harmandir Sahib. Many of the fabulous decorations are due to the generosity of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the 19th century Sikh leader known as the ‘Lion of Punjab’. Among its many gifts were 100 kg of gold to cover the dome and some beautiful marble. We marvelled at the inverted lotus, the pinnacles, columns, oriel window and "uted domes, all gleaming and !nely carved, and time just seemed to "y.

Left: The striking Golden TempleBelow: Visitors at the holy shrineFacing page above: A mock sword !ghtFacing page below: A devotee offering prayers

Indian ReligionÃ


The upper floor welcomed us with a glinting hall of mirrors and square atrium which allowed everyone to glance at the bejewelled canopy, protecting the Holy Book on the floor below. The reading echoed like a heavenly whisper and all around were semi-precious stones, coloured glass, embossed copper, holy verses from the religious scriptures, and different kinds of floral and animal patterns embellishing every space, wall, ceiling and archway. They included a few human figures. Some say it’s a blend of Hindu and Mughal designs, while others call it uniquely Sikh. Either way, the astounding mural ar t is largely the work of unknown ar tists and a poignant testimony to their faith.

There is little room for movement inside the inner sanctum. So, after a last look at the view from the terrace, we returned to our earthbound world where we received a small helping of Karah Parsad, the sancti!ed sweet pudding. We re"ected upon the simple practice of good deeds and kind words, truth, faith and equality, and the vision of heaven as ‘merging with the Divine Spirit, like a spark in the !re.’ As the sun reached its highest point, the temple lit up the whole scene and re"ections shimmered like gold in the lake. Imbued with 500 years of Sikh heritage, the Golden Temple is a living and mystical place to this day. !


the abode of the clouds

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TEXT: JANICE PARIATPHOTOGRAPHS: WANPHRANG DIENGDOH

Up until we reached Duwan Singh Syiem Bridge (named after a local 19th-century ruler), the hour-long drive from Shillong to Sohra (formerly known as

Cherrapunjee) was not much more than pretty. We passed miles of forest, rolling hills, clusters of untidy villages and age-old iron-works where blacksmiths still hammer traditional swords, shields and other implements into shape. The scenery beyond the bridge, however, was breathtaking. Here, the landscape gives way to row upon row of mountains that plunge into a smoky valley, still, silent and seemingly in!nite. Where the mist clears, a winding river can be seen, and sometimes a miniature village or two perched precariously on the slopes. It is such stuff that JRR Tolkien’s world is made of, a slice of Middle Earth tucked away in Meghalaya, the country’s very own Abode of the Clouds.

Also be!tting is that Sohra, in true Lord of the Rings-style, abounds in myth and folklore, stories that are connected to its land, forests and animals, indicative of a time when its people lived in harmony with their surroundings and paid their deepest respect to nature. After all, the Khasi faith is !rmly grounded in animism and their belief system is similar to the American Red Indians and the Japanese – attributing souls to plants, animals, rivers and other entities, in addition to humans. A !ne example

Facing page: Rolling hills of SohraAbove: A bridge made with living rootsBelow: Stone menhirs, memorials to the dead

Indian Destination Ã


of this are the Sacred Groves, patches of 1,000-year-old forests that have stayed untouched due to the belief that to take anything from their grounds is to be cursed. These ecological marvels stand in contrast to the barren, wind-swept Sohra countryside; one of the wettest places on earth, the area’s torrential rain (an astounding 400 inches a year) has washed away all evidence of top soil and little grows in the sandy remains.

The best time to visit is October, after the thrashing monsoon has come and gone, swelling the rivers and waterfalls and magically multiplying the springs that trickle down the slopes and onto the road. Amongst the many waterfalls, Nohkalikai and Dain Thlen remain my favourites. The former, a !ve-kilometre drive off the main road, is the highest in the state, with water that hurls 1,000 feet into a pool of deep emerald green. The roar of the waterfall is said to sound like the screams of Likai, a woman who jumped off the edge after !nding out that her husband had killed (and cooked) her only child.

Although Dain Thlen, about seven kilometres away from the main Sohra market, does not share this impressive height, its fame lies in the strange, almost anthropomorphic rock formations that its waters travel through before thundering down the cliff into what looks like a secret, enchanted forest. According to legend these surreal, Dali painting-like riverbed rocks was where the Thlen, a feared man-eating creature, was diced after it was tricked into swallowing red-hot boulders believing they were meat. Further away, about 13 kms from the Sohra market, is Khoh Ramhah which locals believe was the khoh (traditional Khasi conical basket) of an evil giant named Ramhah, who was killed after being fed crushed glass and iron by the villagers. Standing next to this enormous boulder are two sentinel rocks between which a waterfall tumbles into the plains of Bangladesh. The Thangkharang park in which Khoh Ramhah is located is believed to be inhabited by spirits, and the locals will warn you to leave before dark.

A little further away is the seasonal Kynrem Falls, which during the monsoon season shoots high over the road. Think of it as a noisy, water tunnel, a bit frightening but completely awe-inspiring.

For something slightly different, we headed to the Mawsmai caves. These are exciting formations found in a forested hillside, and through which you can safely traverse. Don’t worry if you haven’t brought along a "ashlight, there are "ame-shaped lamps to light your way through the rocky darkness. Our next destination, where we were also supposed to spend the night was the Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort, located near Laitkynsew village. This friendly family-run place offered us an evening of story-telling around the bon!re, local music and songs and traditional Khasi food (mainly consisting of steamed rice, pork stew or chicken curry and fried vegetables) before equipping us with a guide the next morning to take us to the Living Root Bridges. Straddling the breadth of a river, these amazing organic creations are made entirely from the roots of a species of Indian Rubber and have been used as bridges for hundreds of years. The two-hour to and fro trek is rather exhausting but de!nitely worth it.

This page Left: Ice Bar

Above left: The Sohra ChurchLeft: Limestone caves at MawsmaiFacing page: 1000 year old forest or sacred groves

Indian DestinationÃ


The landscape of Sohra, as with its history and culture, is dotted with structures that show a blend of local Khasi and Welsh missionary in"uences. Alongside hilltops sprinkled with cemeteries and chapels and a building housing The Thomas Jones School of Mission (once the Theological College), imposing menhirs can also be found. These ancient Khasi relics, probably memorial monoliths of the dead (standing upright for men and lying horizontal for women), are said to have been driven into the ground by a single stroke. Now fenced in and over-grown, lonely stone platforms still stand where once kings and royalty were cremated; further away is an open space lined with small stone boxes in which the bones of the dead are stored. An unusually "attened hilltop was once the site of the annual Shad Sukmynsiem (dance of the joyful heart) to celebrate the coming of spring.

While we make our way back and leave Sohra behind, our guide points to a rock that protrudes from a sheer cliff, hanging high over the valley. “It’s three-headed,” he explains, “three rocks balancing one on top of the other. Legend says that the day it topples will be the day Sohra shall also fall. But it has lasted a million years, no reason it shouldn’t last a few more.” And as we drove away, the slopes shimmering as they caught the last rays of the sun, I secretly hoped, against all rational belief, that what he said was true. !

Indian Destination Ã

Samsara-Dechu is a result of the vision of Jepu Khanji and his son Insaf Khan of Jodhpur, who successfully

created this oasis in the desert. The resort is located about 115 km from Jodhpur, on way to Jaisalmer near the village of Dechu in Rajasthan. It is spread over 25 acres of land abutting the highway. A 10-metre high sand dune, a common feature of Rajasthan deserts, is an integral part of the resort to enhance the experience of the guests.

S!*)!(!-D256'an island of comfort

44 AN INDIAN JOURNEY April 2010

Architecturally, the resort blends with the aesthetic sensibility of the local crafts. The red and beige stones used are entirely local as were the craftsmen employed, making the overall

experience a blend between the traditional and contemporary. The aesthetic sense has combined local construction technologies with modern day aspirations of the guests in terms of facilities. Buildings are low rise in nature and are embellished by the continuous chhajas, innovative columns and crafted openings. The architecture enhances the experience of a comfortable, convenient, as well as serene oasis in an otherwise hot dry landscape of the region.

The interior design and ambience complements the architecture of the resort. They blend seamlessly with the exterior spaces and its aesthetic sensibilities. Blended colours and motifs in the "ooring engage the roving guests all over, and are rightly complemented by tasteful furniture, upholstery, "oor coverings, curtains and other accessories.

The use of water bodies, expansive and sustainable green areas, as well as large rocks which were a part of the site, have been used imaginatively in tying up all areas of the Resort. A walk in any area gives a different experience to the guests at different times of the day which adds to the signi!cance of the resort.

The Samsara-Dechu is a 34-key luxury resort with wide public areas, a swimming pool and gardens adjacent to the sand dune. The Standard rooms comprise of a bed and sitting area, dressing area and a luxurious four !xture toilet, with natural light abundant in all spaces. The Deluxe rooms are additionally equipped with a study and verandah in the rear opening into a private garden. The Guest suites have a large living-dining room and a large bedroom opening into an internal courtyard. A large dressing area, toilet and its private courtyard make the facility even more luxurious. A porch, an entrance lobby and a verandah overlooking a private pool add to the luxury of the suites.

The reception lobby has a soothing fountain where guests can relax in the waiting area overlooking the gardens and swimming pool. A mini bar is also located nearby with a retail area and a library at the upper level. The upper "oor accommodates the two deluxe mini suites, lounges and the quiet sitting spaces. The meeting and conference room, adjacent to the bar, is equipped with all necessary equipment and enjoys a beautiful view. The air-conditioned restaurant, with a clear storey roof light in its centre, has an additional alfresco sitting space. !

A blend of traditional and contemporary, Samsara-Dechu offers luxury in the heart of the desert

Indian Hotels Ã


a marvel in water architecture

A,!&!: S"23+2&& TEXT: BHARATI NARASIMHANPHOTOGRAPHS: AVALOK LANGER

a marvel in water architecture

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It’s not necessarily the world renowned Akshardham temple of Gandhinagar in Gujarat that attracts thousands of visitors to it each year, but a stepwell that lures them like bees to a hive. This stepwell, which is the most beautiful architectural marvel of Gujarat, is known as the Adalaj Stepwell.

Indian ArchitectureÃ


Gujarat had evolved a very rich and unique tradition of architecture and sculpture which among others comprise stepwells. In these kind of wells, water is reached by a long

"ight of steps. Above the water reservoir, is a sequence of two to seven-storeyed pavilions artistically built and beautifully sculptured. These were once the water sanctuaries of India – a marvel in water architecture.

Local rulers and wealthy merchants built stepwells on trade routes as a philanthropic gesture to provide water and shelter to pilgrims and merchants. In those days, caravans laden with merchandise travelled

Previous page: Towering pillars that support the wellLeft: Beautifully carved walls at each level Top: An ornamental motif Above: Spacious accommodation for pilgrims and merchants

Indian Architecture Ã


at night to avoid !erce mid-day sun and afternoon storm. At day-break they halted at the stepwells which provided them a cool and comfortable resting place.

Among the many stepwells in Gujarat, Adalaj stepwell is unrivalled in beauty. Set in a quiet village, some 12 kms north of Ahmedabad, it is a classical example of Indo-Islamic style of architecture. The harmonious play of intricate "oral patterns seamlessly fusing into Hindu and Jain symbolism embody the culture and ethos of those days.

Built entirely of sandstone, the Adalaj stepwell is a !ve storey edi!ce underground. It consists of octagonal landings supported by carved pillars. Each level is spacious enough to accommodate a large number of pilgrims and merchants. The air and light vents at various landing levels are in the form of large openings. Except for a brief period during noon, there is no direct sun light inside. Therefore, temperature in side the stepwell is six degree cooler than outside.

Adalaj Stepwell is the only stepwell in Gujarat with three entrance steps, and all of them meet at the !rst storey underground at the water level in a huge square platform. The platform rests on 16 pillars. The four corners of the square are strengthened with stone beams

which are decorated with the "oral motiffs and graphics of Islamic architecture. These blend very well with the symbols of Hindu and Jain gods carved at the various levels of the well. All the walls are carved with ornamental designs, mythological scenes and scenes of daily activities like women churning butter milk, dancers accompanied by musicians, women adorning themselves and king sitting on his throne. These walls are a veritable showcase of sculptures and ornamentation.

Other attractions of the well are Ami Kumbh (a pot containing water life), Kalpa Vriksha (tree of life) carved out of a single slab of the stone and frieze of navagraha (nine planets). It is said that this frieze protects the monument from evil spirit.

Adalaj Stepwell is steeped in romance, mystery and tragedy. In 1499 AD, Rana Veer Singh, ruler of the area around Adalaj, started construction of Adalaj Stepwell. Unfortunately he was killed in a battle by Mohammed Beghada who wanted to marry Queen Ruda. Ruda

Below: View from the lowest level of the baoli

Indian ArchitectureÃ


Above and right: Intricate carvings at the baoli (stepwell)

agreed to marry him on the condition that !rst he completed the !ve storey stepwell. After the edi!ce was completed, Beghada again proposed her. Next day Queen Ruda "ung herself in the well. It is a mystery whether Queen Ruda was drowned or escaped through the hidden doors and chambers, the stepwell had. Anyway Beghada lost the woman he wanted to marry.

The six tombs around the stepwell are the evidence of another setback faced by Mohammed Beghada. He was so enamoured by the architectural excellence of the Adalaj stepwell that he did not want a replica of it. So he asked the artisans whether they could build another stepwell like the one they had built. Their reply in af!rmative was their undoing. All of them were killed by the king. The six tombs are a sad reminder of the artisans and their skill. !


oriental mystique

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Imagine an aura of tantalising fragrances that completely seduce your senses, not heady synthetic scents but naturally energising aromas that weave a web of

enchantment. Welcome to the world of Attars (ittr).

Aromatherapy is just the name given to the age old Indian tradition of using ittr. Attars are 100 per cent natural, whether single or blended to produce remarkably rich scents. Using

ittr is a desi parampara, scents change with the seasons. Henna for winters, Khus for summers, a therapeutic sniff that can soothe. The simplest example of aromatherapy is Itr-e-Gill (gilli mitti ittr) or Itr-e-khaki (sondhi mitti) drawn from mud, which has the aroma of the !rst monsoon showers and can cure blood pressure. Apart from being energising every ittr is individualistic and distinctive.

Most attars include: Gulab (Rose), Chandan (Sandalwood), Khus (used in summer, made of green grass), Henna (has medicinal value). Kewra, Mogra, Chameli, Jasmine (Motia), Rajnigandha, Itr Aggar (from the Assamese wood called Aggar) and Frangi Pani (raat ki rani) are also used to make attars.

Above: Rose petals used to make Gulab AttarFacing page: Painted and cut glass ittrdans

TEXT: KANCHAN NATH PHOTOGRAPHS: CHARLES DUNCAN


The ittr are traditionally kept in tiny, ornate crystal bottles called ittrdans. Because of its concentrated form, ittr is sold in small bottles. Today there is a bustling business of all glass products in Ferozabad (beyond Agra) where bangles, mirrors and glass ittrdans are made.

The historical connotations of Attars go back to Vedic times. The word ‘attar’, ‘ittar’ or ‘othr’ is an Arabic word which means ‘scent’; this in turn is believed to have been derived from the Sanskrit word sugandha, meaning ‘aromatic’. Egyptians make use of frankenscience. The Mughals, however, perfected the art of steamed distillation. The credit for the discovery of rooh gulab, essential oil of Rose "ower, goes to Noor Jahaan (wife of Emperor Jahangir). One day, while having bath in a tub of hot water covered with rose petals, she saw drops of oil "oating in the water and loved the fragrance, and gulab attar was born. Today attar is used in many rituals and prayers.

Understanding the process of getting these drops of wonder is a lesson in fragrance tourism of Kannauj. Situated on the banks of the sacred river Ganges, 80 kms from Kanpur in Uttar Pradesh, this ancient town is considered by many to be the perfume capital of the country. Here every second house is engaged in extracting essential oils and producing attars through an ancient and laborious process

of steamed distilling. Flower petals along with water are heated in a vessel called Deg (usually made of copper). Vapours of water along with vapours of oil are then collected into Bhapka (a vessel used to collect steam). The Bhapka is then cooled with normal water and the mix of water and oil of the "ower is mixed with a base of pure sandalwood oil. Sandalwood oil is used as a base because of its strong !xative property that can retain the "oral essence for a long period of time. Depending on the kind of attar, time taken for production can take anywhere between three months to a couple of years.

While Kannauj remains the mandi (central market) for attar, the different "ower attars come from all parts of India: Roses from Hathras, Chameli from Bali in eastern Uttar Pradesh, Kewra from Orissa and Behrampur. Kannauj has also started a one year course in attar making, however, true knowledge of this art comes from the !eld and only with experience.

For now if you are looking to buy pure attar as well as experience old Delhi, head to Gulabsingh Joharimal at Dariba in old Delhi. This quaint shop from 1816 is in the Limca Book of Records for being one of the oldest shops in Dariba. The owners of this shop have been carrying on the family business and secrets of attar mixing for seven generations. The shop sure has experienced more footfalls with the opening of the metro and this will make your journey there all the more easier. !

The oldest shop in Dariba, Old Delhi

Indian AromaÃ


C$*#%7 O4 A72Indian PhotographyTEXT: IPSHITA BARUAPHOTOGRAPHS: AMIT MEHRA

Indian photography as an art form has !nally come of age. Viewed in India mainly as an advertising and documenting tool, photography has found its place among the other arts with

collectors turning more and more towards acquiring photographs along with paintings.

Photographer of Asia Award winner, Amit Mehra is one such photographer. A simple and quiet person, his pictures speak for him. Star ting his career as a char tered accountant, he changed course midstream and went on to become an editorial and adver tising photographer. But this did not suit him as he found a full time career as a photojournalist too constricting and

felt that adver tising photography did not give him much scope for creativity.

For a while he apprenticed with master photographer S. Paul and then went on to create his own masterpieces. Along with working on assignments as an architectural and advertising photographer, he started working on a portfolio of stunning visuals. These can be seen in his various exhibitions and the books he has published.

His portraits of people in black and white bring out the true character of his models. The simple but amazingly beautiful pictures capture the subjects’ moods perfectly. His architecture and advertising

Previous page: Meditation This page: Immersion

images too follow simple lines with a single point of focus, be it a colour or form.

The amazing series Gurukul, is a powerful portraiture of life in an ashram, making a strong statement about the arduous training required to become the disciplined keepers of faith. It also gives you a glimpse of how modernity is invading the precincts of the gods with young disciples playing with computers and mobile phones. His depiction of Jain nuns stir the soul with a deep sense of spirituality and his beautiful portrayal of the widows in Vrindavan tell a heart-wrenching story of hope and waiting. All stunning and thought provoking works of art.

His exhibitions too convey a strong message. ‘Timeless India’ that travelled across New York, Australia, London and Japan talks about six Indian living religions that are still thriving and are practiced across the country in the multi-layered culture that is India. Turning everyday happenings into amazing visuals, this exhibition speaks of how religions in India co-exist following their own rituals and traditions without impinging on the faith of others. These truly evocative images portray the true nature of Indian secularism.

‘Paris A Love Affair’ is a completely different format, shot from the chest level as Parisians do not like their privacy invaded, it depicts the vibrancy of life in Paris. Starting off as a ballet shoot it turned

This page: Su! Kathak dancer Facing page above: Artist at WorkFacing page below: Jantar Mantar

Indian Fashion ÃIndian Art Ã

into a graphic story about Paris and its citizens. Amit Mehra’s love of exploration and discovery led him to view this city from a different perspective. Once again an immense sense of balance and a keen eye for movement worked its magic. ‘His Signatures’, an exhibition that explores the myriad textures and patterns in nature, is a mind-boggling study of the natural world that surrounds us.

Having worked on countless projects from Raisina Hill, Hampi, Contemporary Architecture, Su! Shrines in Kashmir and much more, Amit Mehra has taken Indian photography to new heights. He is currently working on two projects, Kashmir, where he attempts to show how the common Kashmiris have moved ahead against all odds. The second, titled, ‘We Indians’ is a series of portraits that depict the multi-lingual, multi-racial society that characterises India.

With more and more photographers exhibiting their work, there is a huge change in trend. Corporate houses and individual collectors are becoming serious buyers. Improved quality has changed the image of Indian advertising and architectural photography. Exhibitions like ‘Click! Contemporary Photography in India’, presented by Vadehra Art Gallery and Fotomedia, has a positive impact on the art world as it highlights photography as an art form. Amit Mehra feels that all this is extremely bene!cial to Indian photography.

Above: Offering prayersBelow: The monsoons

He feels that when collectors like your work and invests in it then you have achieved success. He respects artists who work with their own thoughts and beliefs. Believing in an inside vision, he puts his own interpretation and focuses on his views ignoring everything that may in"uence his work. !


K'*;6 M2&! Steeped in history, mythology and religion, the Kumbh Mela attracts pilgrims by the millions for a holy dip in the rivers of North India. A dip at the opportune moment is believed to free the bather from the vicious cycle of birth and death and rebirth, leading to the individual’s moksha, or salvation, the permanent merger with the Absolute.

According to astrologers, the Kumbh Mela occurs when the planet Jupiter enters Aquarius and the Sun enters Aries. Kumbha means ‘pot’ and Mela, fair. A sacred pilgrimage for

Hindus, the Kumbh Mela is observed in four locations of Prayag in Uttar Pradesh, Haridwar in Uttarakhand, Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh and Nasik in Maharashtra.

The origin of the Kumbh is very old and goes back to the universe’s genesis when Kalasha, the pot containing the nectar of immortality, was recovered during Samudramanthan, the churning of the primordial sea. A tense war between the devtas (gods) and asuras (demons) ensued. To prevent the Amrita Kalasha being forcibly taken away by the more powerful demons, its safe-keeping was entrusted to the gods Brahaspati, Surya, Chandra and Shani. Learning of the conspiracy of the gods, the ferocious demons began chasing the four gods who were running with the pot of nectar. The chase went round the earth and lasted twelve days and nights during which the gods sprinkled the Amrita Kalasha at Allahabad, Haridwar, Nasik and Ujjain.

To commemorate this holy event, the Maha Kumbh Mela is held every three years in each of the four locations, returning to each of the four places every twelve years. Besides the regular Kumbha Mela, an Ardh (half) Kumbha Mela takes place six years after the Maha Kumbh in each location.

The Kumbh Mela is also a colourful expression of the many pictures of India. Normal people throng the river banks alongside an amazing host of troglodytes, hermits, mystics and sadhus. The Naga Sadhus are one such group, going unclothed with bodies smeared in ash. They have long, matted hair and seem unmindful of the extremes of heat and cold. Then there are the Urdhwavahurs, who believe in putting the body through severe austerities. There are the Parivajakas, who have taken a vow of silence and go about tinkling little bells to tell people to move out of their path. The Shirshasins never sit and meditate for hours standing on their heads. The Kalpvasis are the ones who spend the entire month of Kumbh on the banks of the Ganga, meditating, performing rituals and bathing thrice a day.

For all these people visiting the Kumbh is an extremely spiritual experience. !

a dip to the beyondTEXT: PRIYADARSHI PRADHANPHOTOGRAPHS: SANTANU GANGULY

Dreadlocked sadhus at the Kumbh


Ã

THE SCALPEL: GAME BENEATH

Author: H. S. Rissam Publisher: Rupa & Co. The Scalpel is the story of four people - a pretty princess, a noble physician, an evil cardiac surgeon and a dreaded don masquerading as a billionaire business tycoon. Painted across a wide canvas !lled with multiple hues of love, lust, lies, greed, and scandals, the four characters criss-cross continents, touching cities like Delhi, Amritsar, New York, Chicago, Paris, Istanbul, Barcelona, Manila and Sydney. Billed as a gripping story, the novel has love, lies, deceit, jealousy, scams, killings and scandals.

The novel scintillates through different levels of enigmatic stories and solves the mystery of one of the most grand-scaled medical thriller written in recent times. The author of this medi-!ction Dr H. S. Rissam is the Senior Interventional Cardiologist and Director of Cardiac Clinical Sciences. Price: Rs. 195, Pg. 326, Fiction, PB

B$$< R21#2+)INTIMATE PRETENCE: ORIYA SHORT STORIES

Author: Paramita Satpathy Publisher: Rupa & Co.Intimate Pretence is a collection of 14 short stories by Paramita Satpathy. The stories have been translated from Oriya language, and address the recurring problems of the booming middle-class of Orissa. Gripping as the stories are, they permeate the unique essence of the enchanted state of Orissa. Many of the stories, translated into English, have been published in magazines like Indian Literature, The Little Magazine, Dhauli Review, Muse India, etc., and have been taken in anthologies of short stories, published in various parts of India.

Paramita Satpathy is an in"uential voice among the young women writers of Orissa. She did her Masters in Economics from Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi. She joined Indian Revenue Service in 1989 and is currently working in Bhubaneswar. Price: Rs. 95, Pg. 176, Short Stories, PB

RABINDRANATH TAGORE: THE SINGER AND HIS SONGAuthor: Reba Som Publisher: Viking / PenguinWe often forget that Gitanjali, the book of poems for which Tagore was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1913, was actually a collection of songs. In his lifetime, Tagore was most renowned for his song writing. But today, outside Bengal, his music remains largely unknown and his songs are scarcely understood.

This biography maps out chronologically the musical journey of the poet with anecdotes

and allusions, and includes translations of some of Tagore’s most evocative songs. It is also illustrated with photographs and paintings that are crucial to the understanding of Tagore as a musician. Price: Rs. 599/-, Pg. 294, Biography with MP3 CD, HB

BOOK REVIEWS BY SANTANU GANGULY

Indian ReviewÃ


THIS IS THE JUNGLE

Author: Kenneth Anderson Publisher: Rupa & Co.The stories in this book are masterpieces of adventure stories set in the depths of Indian jungles. Charismatic man-eaters and other beasts of prey populate these delightful anecdotal tales by the celebrated author of jungle lore. Full of dramatic tension and excitement, they also re"ect the author’s genuine concern for Indian wildlife in danger of extinction by the encroachment of a ‘developing’ population.

The author of this book, Kenneth Anderson (1910-74), hailed from a Scottish family settled in India for six generations. His love for denizens of the Indian jungles led him to big game hunting and eventually to writing real-life adventure stories. His books are hailed as classics of jungle lore.Price: Rs. 150, Pg. 280, Non-Fiction, PB

KALIDASA KUMARASAMBHAVAM – A RENDERING IN MODERN ENGLISH

Translator: Rajendra Tandon Publisher: Rupa & Co. For centuries, the pandits who owned the manuscript of the epic poem Kumarasambhavam written by Kalidasa, kept it concealed because of its erotic content. Since the book came to light, it was acclaimed all over the world as a masterpiece of devotional and erotic writing combined with vignettes of nature not to be found in the literature of any language. The content is erotic, but never vulgar. The Kumarasambhavam is a poem for the devotees of Shiva. It tells the story of the birth of Parvati, her penance to achieve her union with Shiva, the marriage of Mahadeva and its consummation.

Rajendra Tandon, the translator of this epic poem, is a Master of Arts in English literature. He takes a keen interest in Indian history, Indian miniature painting, astronomy, !ne arts, Indian classical music, gardening, and homoeopathy. He currently lives in Mumbai. Price: Rs.695, Pg. 385, Poetry, HB

SOURAV GANGULY: THE MAHARAJA OF CRICKETAuthor: Debashish Dutta Publisher: Niyogi Books

Some love Sourav Ganguly, others love to hate him, but no one can simply ignore him.

Sourav Ganguly: The Maharaja of Cricket is about the man, the leader and the motivator. With a bat in his hands, he is still worth a wager. This book is a tribute to the grit, courage and dedication of one man who taught Indian cricketers to dream. He is the man who can be credited with building Team India, brick by brick.

The story of Sourav Ganguly is essentially that of a bright young lad’s metamorphosis into a leader in a battle!eld called cricket. It is the kind of stuff that fairy tales are made of.Price: Rs. 1,500/-, Pg. 204, Biography, HB

Indian Review Ã


MICEtalk, the business travel magazine, is the new addition to the publishing family of Durga Das Publications. With the recovery of the world economy, there is a whole shift in the way the world is perceiving business travel. With MICEtalk, Durga Das Publications presents a template of the best in business travel, in terms of convention ideas - their execution and problem solving, the quirks of the incentive market and the countries of the world vying for a place on the MICE map. MICEtalk also makes an attempt to identify how prominent a place India has on the MICE travellers’ itinerary.

In its inaugural issue, MICEtalk addressed business travel by looking at destinations for MICE activities, in India and abroad, talking to experts who provide their logistical support, showcasing corporate events, talking to airlines and suggesting unique venues for business meetings. It also highlighted corporate commitment towards the environment. The magazine also featured the Hi-tech convention facility, the Hyderabad International Convention Centre, in India. MICEtalk also attempted to understand the changing trends in the MICE business, by talking to tour operators, airlines, tourism of!ces etc.

The later issues will also talk about the dynamics of business travel and how it is !nding a place alongside leisure travel.

DURGA DAS PUBLICATIONS (INDIA) PVT LTD LAUNCHES MICEtalk

TUMSA NAHIN DEKHA

Artist: Brian Silas It was a special birthday for piano maestro Brian Silas as he launched his 27th album Tumsa Nahin Dekha under the Saregama label recently in New Delhi. Brian’s ten years tryst with piano has got him fame and accolades from all over the world. The album is a collection of 15 instrumental songs coaxing a magical melody that mesmerizes and creates an ambience that enthralls.

Brian’s romance with piano began at quite an early age, it was his deep desire to master the instrument and he succeeded in doing so. In this album he evokes the nostalgia of great music directors like Khayyam, Salil Choudhary, O.P. Nayyar, S.D. Burman, Laxmi Kant Pyare Lal, Ravi and the inimitable Madan Mohan.Album: Saregama India Ltd., Price: INR 125/-

K.J.YESUDAS - GANA GANDHARVAN - 70 GLORIOUS YEARS

Artist: K. J. YesudasSaregama has released the album Gana Gandharvan – K.J. Yesudas 70 Glorious Years – of the divine voice in honour of Dr. K.J. Yesudas’s 70th birthday. The four CD album contains 70 evergreen Malayalam !lm songs by leading singer Yesudas, 22 composers and 15 lyricists, and tracks his illustrious career from 1962 to 1984 as he sang songs composed and penned by the greatest composers and lyricists including G. Devarajan, M.S. Baburaj, K. Raghavan, V. Dakshinamurthy, R.K. Sekar, Salil Chowdhury, K. Ravindran, Kanoor Rajan, Illaiyaraja and Vayalar, Sreekumaran Thampi, P. Bhaskaran, Bichu Tirumala and O. N. V. Kurup.

Yesudas has recorded over 40,000 songs and won scores of accolades including the coveted Padma Shri, Padma Bhushan and seven national awards for playback singing. Album: Saregama India Ltd., Price: INR 500/-

M')#5 R21#2+)MUSIC REVIEWS BY SANTANU GANGULY

Indian ReviewÃ


BANDISH FUSION - THE LASTING LEGACY

Artist: Subhen Chatterjee and KarmaSubhen Chatterjee, one of the leaders of World Music movement in India since 1985 with the fusion ensemble Karma, is now presenting another album titled Bandish Fusion – The Lasting Legacy. It’s not just another album on fusion music by putting two streams (east and west) of music together but it is a unique way of paying tribute to the great composers of Indian classical/light classical/folk music where Chatterjee shows expertise in the knowledge of blending and merging traditional bandishes by the masters of Khayal, Thumris, Dadras, folk melodies etc. with tabla/ethnic percussions, vocals, guitar, violin, ghatam, drums etc. to produce an enchanting sound which is exclusively Karma’s. Pundit Vishwa Mohan Bhatt has a special appearance in this album while Amyt Dutta, Swapan Bose, Jojo, Tushar Dutta also has guest appearance.Album: Saregama India Ltd., Price: INR 175/-

MESMERIZING MAESTROS

Artist: Ustad Shujaat Khan and Ustad Zakir HussainIn this unique series, the ingenious Ustad Zakir Hussain is seen in conjunction with the master of Indian classical music Ustad Shujaat Khan. Each maestro has a magical touch of his own. And when they team up, the resulting music is enchanting and mesmerizing! The dexterity of Zakir Hussain’s nimble !ngers in tune with Ustad Shujaat Khan gives an insight into the musical genius that he is! The subtleness in their creativity without overpowering each other is a true tribute to the greatness of Indian classical music! Ustad Shujaat Khan is a noted sitar player. Being the son and disciple of the legendary Ustad Vilayat Khan, he hails from Imdad Khan gharana. The illustrious son and disciple of Ustad Allah Rakha, Ustad Zakir Hussain belong to the Punjab gharana. The album features two night ragas by these maestros – Bageshwari and Bihag followed by a Dhun. Album: Saregama India Ltd., Price: INR 295/-

Indian Review Ã


K!&2#,$)5$32 INDIA

H$")3$")

For more information, please contact: [email protected]

Heritage Hotel Fort Chanwa Luni If you yearn for a chance to get away from the hustle and bustle of the urban life, follow the meandering river Luni to relive the romance and grace of a life now extinct within the comforts of Heritage Hotel Fort Chanwa. The fort is situated in the heart of a typical picturesque Rajasthani village Luni, around 40-minute drive from Jodhpur. The fort reminisces about the past of its royal inhabitants with beautifully carved furniture, traditional Rajasthani textiles and coloured glass chandeliers creating a special old-world charm.


Royal India Golden Triangle TrainRoyal India Train Journeys have come up with a special product for all its valued guests to let their dreams come true. It brings an exclusive package named Golden Triangle Train Tour on the magni!cent circuit of Delhi-Agra-Jaipur. The two nights/ three days package includes off board and on board unmatched services by Special Charter Train for people who seek value for money to take this great memorable journey.


Go HolidaysTo promote the state Odisha and to create awareness among people to come and explore its magni!cent beauty, Bhubaneswar-based travel and tour operator, Go Holidays has come up with a strategy in 2010. It has introduced car rental to its existing services that include air ticketing, hotel booking, visa assistance, travel insurance and package tour. Having a signi!cant presence in domestic as well as the outbound market, Go Holidays deals with leisure travels and mid-size corporate clients. In the outbound market, it has a wide presence in South East Asia, whereas for the domestic market, its inbound package destinations include Kerala, Himachal, Goa, Gangtok, Darjeeling and Andaman, besides Odisha.

Indian HotspotsÃ


For more information, please contact: [email protected] or [email protected]

Kolu Houseboats, SrinagarEver dreamt of staying on a lake and sailing on it? Well, here is a good news for those intending to go to Kashmir. Kolu Houseboats, which is a part of Travel Excellence of Kashmir, has been awarded “The best deluxe luxury house boat” in Srinagar.It was established by Mohd. Kolu in 1940 and extends hospitality to its visitors with their houseboats and shikaras which are seen in large numbers parked along the Dal lake, Nagin lake and Jhelum river. Kolu Houseboats have 62 well-furnished rooms with wall-to-wall Kashmir carpets, separate dressing rooms and attached washrooms !tted with modern amenities.It also has a 24-hour room service, a 24-hour attendant for every houseboat, a telephone and a cable TV in every houseboat. A special offer of Rs. 1,111 per person/per night is valid till March 31, 2010.

For details contact: Hilal A KoluCell: 9811146774Phones: +91 9811146774/91, +91-11-29814080Fax: +91-11-29814081

For more information, please contact:[email protected]

Hotel SouthernLocated in New Delhi near Connaught Place, Hotel Southern’s objective is to create loyal customers by offering quality services.

The hotel has introduced two attractive packages for its customers. The !rst is 2 nights/ 3 days, which includes pickup/drop from airport, welcome drink and fruit basket on check in, breakfast and lunch/dinner for two, and complimentary AC car for sight seeing for one day. Children up to age 5 are free, but those above 6 can share a room for Rs 1,226 extra. The package costs: Super Deluxe Room – Rs 6,110, Executive Suite – Rs 6,710, and Royal Southern – Rs 8,910.

The other package is for 3 nights/ 4 days, and costs: Super Deluxe Room – Rs 11,270, Executive Suite – Rs 12,751, and Royal Southern – Rs 15,470. The extra charge for children above 6 is Rs 2,359. It includes all the above facilities, with some additions like laundry, two days sight seeing, and tickets for Agra tour.


For more information, please contact:[email protected]

Thomas Hotel and ResortsThomas Hotel and Resorts Group’s hotels range from leisure to business hotels and even bed and breakfast facilities. All its hotels and resorts are located in Kerala.

Estuary Island, their "agship resort, located in Poovar, Kerala celebrates the meeting of a lake, a river, a beach and a sea. The group offers an off season (April 1 to September 30) package for 2 nights/ 3 days for a couple at Rs 9,999 inclusive of tax, breakfast and one meal. For an extra person Rs 2,500, and Rs 1,500 for child with extra bed.

Their other resort, Turtle on the Beach at Kovalam, offers a special package of 2 nights/ 3 days for a couple during off season (April 1 to September 30) at Rs 14,999. The special rate is for a stay in standard room (Arabian Sea view) and includes tax, breakfast and one meal.

Landmark WoodsLandmark Woods, located amidst lush forest, in between the Burrapahar and Bagori range of Kaziranga National Park is !ve hours away from Guwahati. The resort’s amenities include 25 well-appointed rooms of one category, all rooms being air-conditioned, with 24 hour power back-up, running hot and cold water, digital TV, mini-bar and hot kettle. Other amenities include a swimming pool, Joe Public – the multi specialty Restaurant, Malana Crème – a well stocked bar, Commune – the video room to view wildlife videos, billiards and pool table, table tennis, carom, dart board etc. It also has conference facilities with two conference halls. Outdoor activities include boating, !shing, tandem biking, barbeque, bird watching treks, elephant, jeep and boat safaris, tea garden visits, day trip to the Ahom ruins and Majuli Island.

Indian Hotspots Ã


“India will teach us the tolerance and gentleness of mature mind, understanding spirit and a unifying, pacifying love for all human beings.”WILL DURANT, AMERICAN HISTORIAN (1885–1981)

Postal Registration No.:DL(ND)-11/6141/2009-10-11,

Licensed to Post without Pre-Payment No.: U(C)-44/2010-11

for posting on 25th – 26th of advance month at New Delhi P.S.O.

RNI No.:DELENG/2008/26217 INDIANjourneyan where one lifetime of discovery falls short

A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 86 Vol III Issue 04 April 2010 Rs. 50

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