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7/29/2019 Introduction to Fabric and Weaving
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Module: Textile ScienceLecture: Introduction to Fabric and Weaving
Md. Masud Rana
Assistant Professor, Dpt. of Textile Engg
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
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Definition and classification fabrics Yarn Preparation For Weaving Process
Weaving Principles
Basic Mechanism of Warp & Cloth Control
Weaving Structure
Woven Fabric Analysis
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Content
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Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material which is made by
weaving or knitting from yarn, although non-woven fabrics aremade by bonding or felting fibres together. A fabric's
appearance, properties and end use can be affected by the
way it was constructed
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Fabrics:
Woven fabrics Knitted fabrics Non woven fabrics
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Woven Fabric
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A woven fabric consists of warp and
weft yarns which are interlaced each
other at right angle.
The process of converting a set of yarns
into fabric in a loom is called weaving.
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Knitted Fabric
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Weft-knitted fabric is made by interlopingtogether long lengths of yarn.
It can be made by hand or machine.
The yarn runs in rows or column across the
fabric.
The fabric is stretchy and comfortable and isused for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.
Weft knitted FabricWarp knitted Fabric
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Non-Woven Fabric
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Nonwoven fabrics are made from webs of fibres (mostly long
synthetic fibres) bonded together by heat, chemical, mechanicalheat or adhesives.
Non-woven fabrics are cheap to produce but not as strong as
woven or knitted fabrics.
They are easy to sew, crease resistant, do not fray and are stable
when washing and dry cleaning
HygieneBaby diapersFeminine hygiene
Adult incontinence products
WipesDomesticTechnical
FiltersGeotextilesCarpet backing
Composites
Applications
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Woven fabric:
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On the basis of manufacturing process woven fabrics may be
classified as:
1. Solid Dyed Fabric: It is woven with the greige yarn received fromspinning. After weaving the fabric is dyed or printed and finished as
required.
2. Yarn Dyed Fabric: The yarn received from spinning is dyed first inthe yarn form.Then weaving is carried out with the colored yarn.
Then the fabric is finished as required.It may be three types:
a. Stripe Fabric: When colored pattern is found only warp directionb. Cross-Over Fabric: When colored pattern is found only weft
direction
c. Check Fabric: When colored pattern is found in both warp anddirection
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Woven fabric:
Check Fabric Stripe Fabric
Cross-Over Fabric
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Weaving flow chart (Solid dyed fabric):
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Weaving flow chart (Yarn dyed fabric):
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Yarn Preparation Process Diagram
WARP YARN, WEFT YARN
1.0 WARPING
2.0 SIZING
3.0 DRAW-IN / TYING-IN
WEAVING
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1.0 WARPING
The warping process transfers the yarn from
multiple packages to a section beam.
To produce a quality beam suitable for weaving, the
following must be accomplished:
1) no lint, fly, wild yarn
2) no high or low selvage
3) maintain warper speed
4) maintain braking systems
5) no crossed or loose ends6) uniform tension across beam
7) uniform tension beam to beam
8) smooth section beams, rollers
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creel
warpers beamM.Rana 13Textile Science
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Application of sizing chemical to yarns
The purposes of sizing process are :
1) To reduce the yarn hairiness that would interfere with theweaving process.
2) To protect the yarn from various yarn-to-yarn and
yarn-to-loom abrasion.
3) To increase the strength of the yarn
2.0 SIZING
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Schematic of a simple sizing configuration
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Entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements ofa weaving machine (drop wires, healds, and reed) when staringup a new fabric style.
Drop wires Healds Reed
3.0 DRAWING-IN
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The passage of the warp through a loom
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Tying-in the new warp ends to the depleted warp is done when a newpattern is not required.
3.0 TYING-IN
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Weaving Principles
Weaving means to make cloth
and other objects. Threads or
strands of material are passed
under and over each other.
Like this
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In order to interlace warp and weft threads to produce fabric on anytype of weaving machine, three operations are necessary :
A) Shedding
Separating the warp threads, which run down the fabric into twolayers to form a tunnel known as the shed
B) Picking
Passing the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, throughthe shed
C) Beating-up
Pushing the newly inserted length of weft, known as the pick, intothe already woven fabric at a point known as the fell
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Shedding
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A. Shedding occurs here
Shedding is the lifting of
some of the warp yarns, so
that the warp is divided into2 sheets. This creates an
opening (a shed) between
them for the weft carrier to
pass through.
B. Picking
The weft yarn taken from
one side of the warp
through the shed.
C. Beating-up
The inserted pick is
consolidated or beaten-up
into the fabric when the
new pick is pushed into thecloth-fell by the reed.
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Warp control (or let-off)
This motion delivers warp to the weaving area at the required
rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a
flanged tube known as the weavers beam
Basic Mechanism of Warp & Weft Control
Cloth control (or take-up)
This motion withdraws
fabric from the
weaving area at the
constant rate that willgive the required pick-
spacing and then
winds it onto a roller
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Methods of weft insertion :
Shuttle
single or multiple grippers or projectiles
Rapiers
Needles
fluid jet, water jet, or air jet
various other method
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http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/91/Shuttle_with_bobin.jpg7/29/2019 Introduction to Fabric and Weaving
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Shedding System Method:
Crank
Cam
Dobby
Jacquard
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http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Nockenwelle_ani.gif7/29/2019 Introduction to Fabric and Weaving
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Common Weaving Structure
Plain Weave
The simplest of the weaves and the most common
Consists of interlacing warp and filling yarns in a pattern of overone and under one.
Plain-weave is strong and hardwearing, so it's used for fashion and
furnishing fabrics.
Balanced weave
Plain weave Rib weaves
Basket weaves
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Twill Weave
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In twill-weave fabric the crossings of weft and warp are offset to give
a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface. It's strong, drapes well andis used for jeans, jackets and curtains.
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Satin Weave
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In satin-weave fabric there is a complex arrangement of warp and
weft threads, which allows longer float threads either across the warpor the weft. The long floats mean the light falling on the yarn doesn't
scatter and break up, like on a plain-weave.
The reflected light creates a smooth, lustrous (shiny) surface
commonly called satin.
The reverse side is invariably dull and non-shiny.
Satin Weave
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Satin Weave
Warp faced satin weave
filling faced satin weave
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