27
Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. इंटरनेट मानक !ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-णSatyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge” प0रा1 को छोड न’ 5 तरफJawaharlal Nehru “Step Out From the Old to the New” जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकारMazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” !ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता ह Bharthari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts [CHD 19: Footwear]

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Page 1: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information

Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public.

इंटरनेट मानक

“!ान $ एक न' भारत का +नम-ण”Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda

“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

“प0रा1 को छोड न' 5 तरफ”Jawaharlal Nehru

“Step Out From the Old to the New”

“जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकार”Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan

“The Right to Information, The Right to Live”

“!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता है”Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam

“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

है”ह”ह

IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts [CHD 19: Footwear]

Page 2: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
Page 3: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
Page 4: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

IS 15196:2002

u

Indian Standard

PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION

ICS 61.060

0 BIS 2002

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDSMANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG

NEW DELHI 110002

December 2002 Price Group 9

Page 5: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

Footwear Sectional Committee, CHD 019——

FOI@WORD

This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the FootwearSectional Committee had been approved by the Chemical Division Council.

A series of Indian Standard on lasts have been compiled for manufacturers of lasts and footwear. This standard,which is fifth in the series of standards on last, covers the requirements and methods of sampling and test forplastic lasts for use in the footwear industry. Other standards formulated on lasts are:

IS No. Title

5520:1969 Lasts, wooden, for heavy duty boots

4512:1978 Footwear lasts, wooden (first revision)

7329:1974 Metal last for safety rubber canvas ankle boots

10089:1981 Metal lasts for knee boots

It is mainly the forepart of the last that alters with fashion. The rear portion which is concerned with the leastmobile part of the foot does not change with fashion. The modern factory practice is to standardize the backportion for a particular heel height. The lasts are generally grouped according to their principal characteristicsand according to the unit operations to which they are put.

For plastic lasts, generally a blend of high density polyethylene (HDPE) and low density polyethylene (LDPE)is used but many use only HDPE for this purpose. The objective is to make the lasts able to withstand the effectsof temperature, pressure and chemicals used in making shoes on machine.

In this standard, rationalized values of English sizes which is in vogue in this country has been prescribed. It ishoped that the shoe industry which is presently following English sizes or Paris point (exclusively used at themoment for export trade) will progressively switch over to an internationally acknowledged rational metric sizesystem.

There is no 1S0 Standard on the subject.

The composition of the Committee responsible for formulation of this standard is given at Annex C.

For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value,observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance withIS 2:1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)’. The number of significant places retained inthe rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.

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IS 15196:2002

Indian Standard

PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS —

1 SCOPE

This standard prescribes requirements, and methodsof sampling and test for plastic lasts for use in footwearindustry.

2 REFERENCES

The Indian Standards listed below contain provisionswhich through reference in this text, constituteprovisions of this standard. At the time of publication,the editions indicated were valid. All standards aresubject to revisions, and parties to agreements basedon this standard are encouraged to investigate thepossibility of applying the most recent editions of thestandards indicated below:

IS No.549:1974

1638:1969

2050:1991

4454(Part 2): 2001

4905:1968

TitleSpecification for split pins (secondrevision)Specification for sizes and fittings offootwear (@t revision)Glossary of terms relating tofootwear @-st revision)Specification for steel wires formechanical springs: Part 2 Oilhardened and tempered spring steelwire and valve spring wire —Unalloyed (second revision)Methods for random sampling

3 TERMINOLOGY

3.1 For the purpose of this standard, definitions givenin IS 2050 shall apply.

3.2 Various types of lasts, types of metal plates,different parts and views of a last are shown in Fig. 1to Fig. 3 for guidance and identification.

4 CLASSIFICATION

4.1 Depending on the use in the process of footwearmanufacture, lasts shall be classified into the followingtwo groups:

a) Type 1 : Lasting lasts

b) Type 2 : Finishing lasts

4.1.1 Depending on the height of heel, these two typesof lasts shall be sub-divided into the following fivecategories:

Categories Lasts for Footwear Heel Height,mm

A Without heel, flat bottom —(sandals and chappals)

Categories

BcD

E

SPECIFICATION

Lasts for Footwear Heel Height,mm

With low heel 10-25With medium heel 26-40With high heel 41-60With very high heel 61 and above

4.1.2 Depending on the constructional features ormethod of withdrawal from footwear, lasts shall befurther sub-divided into three styles:

Styles Use

Solid block last Mainiy for chappals and sandalsSCOOPblock kwt Primarily for custom shoe-makingwith cut wedge or hand-made footwear trade

Articulated or Machine-made footwear industrydetectable or for all types of shoe construction

hinged last

5 REQUIREMENTS

5.1 Material

High density polyethylene (HDPE), low densitypolyethylene (LDPE) or a combination of HDPE andLDPE shall be used for plastic lasts.

The last shall be free from bad moulding and blowholes. The lasts shall also be able to withstand theworking pressure and temperature normally used infootwear industry.

5.2 Components

5.2.1 Bottom Plates

The metal plates shall be of galvanized iron sheet.These shall correspond to the form of bottom of thelast (see Fig. 4).

5.2.2 Metal Tubes

Tubes for lasts shall be one-piece made of mild steeland manufactured either by turning or pressing. Basicsizes of the metal tube shall be as follows:

Inside Diameter, Length,mm mm

Children size lasts 8 30(sizes 1to11%)

All other children sizes 11 40

and adult sizesNOTE — In trade, tubes are known as ‘thimbles’ or ‘sockets’.The wall thickness of the metal tube shall not be less than I mm.Deviations of +0.3 mm shall be allowed on the inside diameterof the tube.

1

Page 7: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

IS 15196:2002

SOLID ONE-PIECE LAST

STOP

SCOOP BLOCK WITH BUSH SPRINGFASTENER OR SPLIT PIN

CONVENTIONAL HINGE

r“,

TELESCOPIC HINGE

FIG. 1 TYPESOFLAST

.

FIG.2 TYPESOFMETALPLATES

Page 8: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

HEEL CURVEa

roP

HEIGHI Of lA~

CONE

BALL GtRIH

TOE -TOE

RECEDEh4EASUREOlcm BEHINDTHE BREAST OF HEEL

TOEJSPRING

u

SIDE VIEW

~fJARREt TvpE

BoTTOM

CROSS-SECTION

TACK HOLE

CUBOIO80TTOM VIEW

/

TUBE= ~FERRULE

REINFORCE-~Y/HEELATTACHING

[R \/BORETHROUGH

&j~A~ POINT

I I\

OF JOINING

\

“\\. .

INSERTEO TOE PLATE

Wk

“\ HINGE PINS

TACK HOLE PLUG

2-HEEL

DETAILS

FIG.3 DIFFERENTPARTSANDVIEWSOFLAST

1

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IS 15196:2002

HEEL AND TOEIRON PLATE

LONGHEEL HALFIRON PLATE FULLIRON PLATEIRONPLATE

/$7-50 %

f\ + \

8 10 \Omm

n L

DIAMETER OF STAPLEHOLES FORGENTS/LADIESAND JUNIORS = 12mmCHILDREN = 10mmINFANT = 8mm

NOTES1 Metal plates shall be of galvanized iron sheet. The plates shall have an even surface without pit-holes and blisters. The head of the nails shall be flush with the plate.

NOTE &

2 In the metal plates holes shall be pierced with a countersink for passage of nai Is and screwsfastening the plates. On all bottom plates size and fitting shall be marked.

e

o3 Distance from the edge of the plate to the centre of the nail-hole is 8 to 10 mm. The distance ofnail-holes in the plates shall be uniformly located.4 The inside surface at the shank portion of the bottom plate shall be grinded for better attachment.5 For pointed lasts (spear points) metal plating of toe ends is necessary to pnxerve the pointed endsof toe and to withstand pressure of wiper plates and for reinforcement at toe with some metalicattachments in cement construction.

Number of Holes

FuR Plate Heel PlateCatego~ Size Roll

Long Heel Plate, Heel Plate Toe Plate

Front Back Front Back Front Back

Gents and Ladies 6to 10 13 7 6 7 4 7 7 3or4

Gents and Ladies llto12 Is 7 6 7 4 7 7 3or4

Ladies/Juniors 2t05 11 7 6 7 4 7 7 3

Boys and Girls 9t01 10 7 — — — — 7 —

Children 6t08 8 5 . — — — 5 —

Infant 3t05 7 5 — . — — 5 —

Infant land2 6 5 — — — — 5 —

All dimensions in millimetres.

FIG.4 LASTBOTTOMPLATE(FIXINGBYNAILS)— (Conthzue~

4

Page 10: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

IS 15196:2002

Wooden Screws at Shank

Approx Diagram Name T L H Way of Use

Thickness Length Head

E

3.8 x 10 3.0 10 6 Children1to 8%J

T1. 3.0x 13 3.0 13 6 All others

I Diameter of countersink

Nails

Approx Diagram Name T L H

Thickness Length Head

Q

1.8x 15 1.8 15.0. 2.8

3,

Ij

ITLI

1.8 x 20 1.8 20.0 2.8

I Diameter of countersink for nails+ 0.2 mm

I Galvanized Bottom Plate

rscrews+O.1 mm

Last Bottom Basic Shoe Construction

All bottom metal plate a) Machine sewn

b) Stuckon and Vubnizcd

Half iron plate a) For variouscombinationconstruction vizForepart weltedconstruction

Long heel iron plate b) Few types of moccasinconstruction

a) Welted

Heel iron plate b) Moccasin

c) Slip Lasted

I1 1

Thickness of Sheet Hardness Way of Use Plain or no metal plate a) Veldtschoen

I 1 mm

I

38 – 44”R I Full plate

1.5 mm 38 – 44”R Heel plate *

Heel and toe iron plate a) Little-way constmction

1

AUdimensions in millimetres.

FIG.4 LASTBOTTOMPLATE(FIXINGBYNAILS)

5.2.3 Metallic Stop

The metal stop shall be 5 mm x 20 mm for all categories.

5.2.4 Lock or Bush Spring Fastener for Scoop BlockLas~

This shall consist of a brass cylinder with a notch inthe upper part, a brass sleeve, an iron pin and a strongand sufficiently elastic spring. The locks shall be ofone piece construction (see Fig. 5).

NOTE — Split cotter pin maybe used in place of lock or bushspring forthe sake of economy.Cotterpins of designation3.2 x 36for children sizes 3 to 8!4 and 5 x 50 for all other sizes shall beused. The cotter pins shall conform to IS549.

5.2.5 Gap Spring Hinges and Pins for Flinged Lasts)

The elliptical shaped gap-spring hinges and pins shallbe made from steel wire conforming to Grade SW ofIS 4454 (Part 2).

5

5.2.5.1 Elliptical gap-spring hinges and pins

Measurements of the gap-spring hinges of ellipticaltype shall be as given in Table 1 (see Fig. 6).

Table 1 Dimensions of Gap-Spring Hinges

(Clause 5.2.5.1)

Last size Inside Length on

(1)InfantChildrenBoy and girlYouthMaidwomen

Men

Major Axis of Minor Axk ofElliptical Gap- Elliptical Gap-Spring Hinge, a Spring Hinge, b

(2) (3) (4)I-6%

7-10% 130.0 10.5

11-1% 42.5 12.52-5 )2-7 53.0 13.52-7

5-11

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IS 15196:2002

I111111111111

111111111111

\1111111111II

111111111Ills

FIG. 5 LOCK ORBUSHSPRINGFASTENER

r----al

FIG. 6 ELLIPTICALGAP-SPRINGHINGE

5.2.5.2 TheTable 2.

length of the pins shall be according to

Table 2 Length of the Pins

(Clause 5.2.5.2)

Last

(1)Infant

Children

Boy and girl

Youth and Maid

Men

Size

(2)3-6%

7-10%

11-1%

2-52-52-72-7

5-125-12

Lengthmm

(3)25

25

30

30403040

4050

Way of Use

(4)Forward and Backward

Forward and Backward

Forward and Backward

Backward onlyForward onlyBackward onlyForward only

Backward onlyForward only

5.2.5.3 The diameter of the gap-spring hinges and pinsshall be 5 mm for children sizes from 4 to 13, and6 mm for all other sizes.

5.2.6 Nails

Instructions given k 5.2.6.1 and 5.2.6.2 shall befollowed while attaching bottom plates, toe plates, etc.

6

5.2.6.1 For fixing galvanized plates, pin nail (invertedcone shaped grooved body as shown in Fig. 4) shal!be used. The following sizes are recommended:

Size of Footwear Size of Nail(Nomina~, mm

Infant and children last sizes 1.8 X 14

1 to 6% and 7 to 10%All other last sizes 1.8 X 18

Special type for toe portions 1.8x 12

only chiselltaperecllthin toe

last

All the body of the nail shall be grooved as shown inFig. 4.

5.2.6.2 For fixing toe plates, flat head round nails shallbe used as follows:

Size of Footwear Size of Nail(Nominal), mm

Infant and children last sizes 1.() x 10

1 to 6!4 and 7 to 10%All other last sizes 1.5 X 16

5.2.6.3 For measuring pin points, half round headbrass nails of size 1.0 mm x 7 mm shall be used (onlyto use in model to get impression on turned last).

6 CONSTRUCTIONAL REQUIREMENTS

6.1 Scoop Block Last

As shown in Fig. 7.

6.1.1 Dimension of Wedge

The line of cut of the wedge shall be determined by4 points as given in 6.1.1.1 to 6.1.1.5.

6.1.1.1 The beginning of the cut in the upper top ofthe last shall be at a distance of 67 mm for last size8 (adult) with change of this length for continuoussizes by 1.5 mm with a tolerance of+ 1 mm.

6.1.1.2 The place of cut at the point of the outer pointshall be at a distance of 33 mm for men, ladies, boysand girls sizes and 14 mm for children and infant sizes,with a permissible deviation of+ 1.5 mm.

6.1.1.3 The place of cut of the wedge at the point ofinside joint shall be 18 mm for men, ladies, boys andgirls sizes and 14 mm for children and infant sizes,with permissible deviation of+ 1.5 mm.

6.1.1.4 The cut wedge shall be attached to the body ofthe last by means of either bush spring lock or splitpin and a stop. The metallic or wooden stop shall beput in a portion somewhat inclined to the heel of thelast. The height of the part of the stop projecting abovethe body of the last shall be 6 to 8 mm. The edgesprojecting part of the stop (heads) shall be slightlychamfered.

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,.,’

HOLE E. SIARIS AT TNE INSIOE wALL OfIHE tIEEL ANO RIEACHES THEoUI SIOE OF THE HEEL po[NT opLAST. EOLUOISTANI FRoM IHEUPPER TOP OF THE LASTAS WELL AS FRON THE LINE OFTHE CUI OF lHE WEOOE.

ModelSize

Category

3E13 Bo s/Girls 12 to 1

10 Bo s/Girls9toll

7 Children6 to 8

4 Infant3 to 5

6- OISIANCE FROM CENIRE OF HOLE10 THE PRICK uSEO FOR MEASURtN13GIRT N OF lNSfEP

H. OISIANCE FROM CEtArRE OF HOLE rOlfLE MIOOLE LINE OF lHE COMe

SYSTEM 1

SCOOP EILOCK LAST WITHSPRINIL FASTENER

&

*CUl AlA SLOPE

I

II(o AfAObj WOOO PEG

e,

B - :~NoF$R CHILOREN RANGE.

SYSTEM 2

I WOOO PEGJ ~11 METALLIC S1OP[CORRESPONDING TO TNE01AJ4E1ER OP lHE S1OP)

III - lNE NEIGHS OF THE PM OF THES1OP PROJECTING AEOVE THE BOOVOF INE LAS? 6 10 anwn

IV - WOOO PEG MAV eE USEO 10 FILL WlHE HOLE OR THE HOLE CAN BELEFT NAKEO.

A I B CD

Dist-Changc for Change forContiguous Dlstanee Contiguousante

Size Size

67 1.5 21 1.0 33 18

61 I 1.5 I17I10133118;~

NOTE — For E and F, 2 mm change for contiguous sizes.

All dimensions in millimctres.

FIG. 7 SCOOPBLOCKLAST,SECTIONALMEASUREMENT

SYSTEM 3

SCOOP BLOCK LASTWITH L. HOOK ~REw

@

11

Iv

fi-6 nun MSTALLIC STOP

WEOGE

Mm E . .... .. ..FOR R TAINING THE Cw

fWEOG ON IHE BOGV oFIHE LASI A METALLIC ORWOOOEN SIOP SHALL BEPRoVIOEO

L

Height

h-i

QHeight of Quarter Tack

kof Lsst

Model Change forSize Contiguous Size

Page 13: IS 15196 (2002): Plastic Footwear Lasts - Public.Resource.Org · IS 15196:2002 u Indian Standard PLASTIC FOOTWEAR LASTS — SPECIFICATION ICS 61.060 0 BIS 2002 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

IS 15196:2002

6.1.1.5 The hole under the lock shall correspond tothe diameter and length of the brass cylinder of thelock in the assembled form. The cylinder inserted flush

into the last shall be held tightly.

Infant lasts of sizes 1 to 8!4 may be,without wedges.

NOTE — For correct location and effective guide for cuttingwedges, putting metallic stop, bush spring lock and various drillholes, round headed rivets or pricks are inserted in specifiedposition on the body of the turning model. After the reproductionby the copying lathe, the rivets forma slight bump on the lastwhere marking can be done with the help of the jig easily andaccurately.

6.2 Articulated or Detachable or Hinged Last

6.2.1 The last after rough turning shall be cut intotwo sections, the back and the forepart. Both thesepieces shall be joined together again with the help ofelliptical shaped gap-spring hinges.

NOTE — There are many type of hinges used by differentmanufacturers, other than elliptical type. Hinge should fultil tberequirement of shoe manufacturing (that is unlasting of shoe bymachine).

6.2.2 To enable the last to bend at this hinge plate orspring and to make the operation of last slipping easy,the portion having the hinge plate or the spring shallbe cut into a V-shaped, making enough room for theback part of the bend, thus shortening the overalllength of the last and take space at the back for easyremoval of the last from the shoe (see Fig. 8).

NOTE — The manufacture of infant lasts (sizes 1to 8Yz)withouthinges shall be permitted.

6.2.3 The diameter of the pin hole shall be 5 mm forchildren sizes 4 to 11!4 and 6 mm for all other sizes.The distance between the two holes (measuring fromthe centre of the hole) shall be 39 mm for childrensizes 4 to 11% and 50 mm for all other sizes.

6.2.4 The focal or centre point of joining “onwhichthese sectional cuts are performed shall be located20 mm above the feather edge of the shank portion ofthe last. The distance shall be maintained for all sizesof lasts. The line of centre of joint or the distancebetween this focal point and seal edge shall be 79 mmfor junior size 4 last with variation of this length forconsecutive sizes by 2 mm.

6.2.5 Both the holes shall be 3 mm below the focal orcentre point of joining (counting from the centre ofthe hole along the shortest distance).

6.2.6 The length of the lower cut at the bottom of thelasts shall be 74 mm for junior size 4 last with 2 mmdistance difference for each consecutive sizes.

6.2.7 The total length of the V-cut or angle cut shallbe 40 mm for junior size 4 last with variation of thislength for consecutive sizes by 2 mm. The length of

the top shall be 60 mm for junior size 4 with 1 mmdifference for contiguous sizes or the angle of V-cutwill be 43° base will be EF and from point E, H willbe 43° from EF line that is DEF will be 43° (Fig. 8).

6.2.8 The diameter of round cutting shall be 18 mm forchildren size 9 to 11% and 20 mm for all other sizes.

6.2.9 Thickness for mortizer chain for slot cutting forfixing hinges shall be 0.2 mm bigger than the thicknessof gap spring hinges.

NOTE — For eff]cient and correct location for the centre ofjointangle cut, round cut and cut at the seat, round headed rivets ornails are inserted on specified position on the body of the turningmodel. Atter reproduction by the copying lathe the rivets formaslight bump on lasts, where marking can be done easily andaccurately.

6.3 Galvanized Bottom Plates

In the metallic plates, holes shall be pierced with acountersunk for passage of nails and screws fasteningthe plates.Any of the following methods may be followedfor attachment of the plates to the bottom of the last asagreed to between the purchaser and the supplier.

6.3.1 All by Nails

The holes in the plate shall be symmetrically locatedand shall be at a distance of 5 to 8 mm from the edgeof the plate up to the centre of the hole (see Fig. 4).

6.3.2 For passage of staple (fastening the insole to thebottom of the last), there shall be holes, with diameter12 mm for sizes 2 to 12 (adult), and 10 mm for allother sizes, as follows:

a)

b)

c)

d)

Forfull bottom plate —There shall be 2 holesfor infant sizes 1 to 6% and 3 holes for allother sizes.

First (toe) — In c&e of full bottom plate lasts,hole shall be located at a distance of 30 mmfor adult sizes 2 to 12 and 25 mm for all othersizes. The distance shall be measured fromthe backward-most point of the heel .up tothe centre of the hole.

Second (heel) — In the case of full plate andseat plate the distance from the backward-most point of the heel up to the centre of thehole shall be 30 mm for adult sizes 2 to 12and 25 mm for 9 to 11!Aand 20 mm for infantsizes.

Z%ird (arch) — In the case of full plate, holeshall be located between the 2 holes specifiedin (b) and (c) above. Each of the 3 holes shallbe situated along the longitudinal line of theinsole, at equal distance from the edge.

The length of the heel and toe plates for adult lastsize 4 shall be 65 mm and 35 mm respectively with

8

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..

IS 15196:2002

ALLOWANCE Fix ROUND ] L?’-zlCUIIINGBY3mm BAND SAW

A

/ ...yi-Jv:‘ yE IF

d

I I9d , IK

\ I---

-’3 .

$-

I

:=2 ::’V . ,6I

L 9tf--! I

ALLOWANCE FOR

, ,-2sROUNO CUTTING

,--- *A BY 3mm BAND SA

Prescription for Wooden Last

& A B c Ig

D E F G H K

z Length of Line of Centre ~enm ~f,ointAngle of Cut fmm

Assortment Ce~ Length of Centreof HeightofLower Cut of Joint

To Front To Rear To tsllvTnp Litl Socket bat

1–1% 41 46 9 21 39

2-2Yl 43 48 Withoutplate 10 22 40

3–3% 45 50 19 mm 11 23 41z~ 4–4% 47 52 12

1224 42 20 40

1-C 5 – 5% 49 54 13 25 43

6 -6% 51 56 With plate 14 26 44

7-7Y2 53 58 20 mm 15 27 45 22 45

8–8YI 55 60 16 28 46

9 – 9% 57 62 Withoutplate 13 17 30 49

~= 10– 10% 59 64 20 mm 14 18 32 50 25 50?~= II–11X 61 66 1s 19 34 51~ 12– 12!4 63 68u

16 20 36 52

13– 13% 65 70 With plate 17 21 38 53 27 55

l–l% 67 72 21 mm 18 22 40 54

1-1% 68 73 17 17 34 57

2–2% 70 75 18 18 36 58g 3–3% 72 77 Withoutplatea 19 19 38

20 mm59

7 . 4 – 4Y, 74 79 20 20 40 60 30 63> 5–5y1~ 76 81 21 21 42 61

a 6–6% 78 83 With plate 22 22 44 62: 7–7% 80 85 . 21 mm 23 23 46 63

8–8% 82 87 24 24 48 64

9-9Yl 84 89 25 25 50 654-4!4 78 83 20 20 40 605-5% 80 85 Withoutplate 21 21 42 61

6-6% 82 87 20 mm

7–7!4

22 22 44 62

& 84 89 23 23 46 63a

32 68

8–8%?

86 91 24 24 48 64

9-9% 88 93 25 25 50 6510- 10% 90 95 With plate 26 26 52 66

11–11% 92 97 21 mm 27 27 54 67

12- 12Y, 94 99 28 28 56 68

NOTE — The thickness of the chain for cutting the slot for hinges will be as follows:Size 12to lfiand2to 12=6.2 mm”Size4to 11%=5.2mm

All dimensionsin snillimetres.FIG. 8 V CUT HINGED LAST

9

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IS 15196:2002

variations of this length for consecutive sizes by 2 mmand 1 mm respectively, or the toe plate length mayremain same.

6.3.3 The nature of bottom in the completed last shallbe as follows depending on the method of attachingthe upper to the inner sole of the footwear:

Last Bottom

All bottom metal plate

Half iron plate and longheel iron plate

Heel iron plate

No metal plate

Heel and toe plate

6.3.4 Metallic Tubes

Basic ShoeConstruction

Machine-sewn, stuck onand vulcanized

Various combinationconstructions and a fewtypes of moccasin con-struction

Welted, moccasin andslip-lasted

Veldtschoen, cementlasted and slip lasted

Little way constructionand stuck-on

Tube shall be inserted into the last along the middlelongitudinal line of the top at equal distance from outerside edges of the top. The distance from centre of thetube up to the back edge of the top shall be as followswith permissible deviation of+ 1 mm

Size Lengthmm

5-11 (men) 322-7 (women, youth and maid) 3011-1!4 (boy and girl) 257-10% (children) 20

1-6% (infant) 20

6.3.4.1 The longitudinal axis of the tube shall beperpendicular to the plane of the top.

7 FINISHING

7.1 Galvanized plates shall be tightly and evenlyriveted to the bottom of last and shall neither be smallerthan the insole of last nor project beyond its border.The last shall be finished in such away that the featheredge shall project all round the plate by 0.5 mm. Platesshall be tightly fixed to the botlom of last by nailsflush with the plate. The lateral edge”of the plate shallbe somewhat bevelled inside but shall be flush withthe body of the last while in the heel from the innerside.

7.2 In the scoop black last, the wedge shall fit tightlyand shall not come off from the body of the last. Aslight swaying of the wedge from the body of the lastshall be permitted in the vertical direction within1 mm. All process is of fixing and of mutual

arrangement of parts, holding the wedge on the last,shall be carried out correctly and accurately, so thatthe wedge can be easily and quickly removed fromand refix to the last.

7.3 In detachable last, the hinge spring shall be firmlyfixed and shall be of sufficient strength and resistanceso that by stretching and folding, the last shall notwobble. The surface of the hinges and slot at the centreof the crest for inserting the hinge shall be in such amanner that the two sections of the last shall not beeccentric, while breaking or folding. Hinge pin shallbe of adequate strength and shall be pushed inside thenote sutliciently so that it will not project outside thelast which may cause damage to the shoe material.The half-round section of the crest shall be properlygreased for easy folding. The edge of the half-roundsection of the crest which maybe seen during foldingprojecting from inside the body of the last, shall berounded off. The edge of the galvanized plate at thelower cut of the seat bottom shall be tiled.

7.4 Tubes shall be inserted tightly and flush with top,and the diameter and depth of the hole shall correspondto the outside diameter and height of the tube.

7.5 On all lasts pin-points shall be prominent forchecking their dimensions. These pin-points are putaccurately in locations as follows:

a)

b)

In the forepart of the last, 3 pin-points shallbe put, the first at the inside joint, the secondat the outside joint and the third at the baseof the instep (along the centre line of the combor last). The measurement of the girth ofjoints of the last shall be carried out throughthese 3 points (see Fig. 9).

The number of pin-points on the instep ofthe last for measuring the instep girth shallbe 1 only.

7.6 Lasts of identical sizes, fittings and styles shallconjugate, that is the right hand last shall in respectof form, serve as mirror image of the left hand one.

7.7 The upper surface of the last shall be smooth.

8 DIMENSIONAL REQUIREMENTS

8.1 Sizes and fittings of the lasts shall conform to thosespecified in IS 1638.

NOTE — The percentage of any individual fitting of the lasts,according to sizes, shall be subject to agreement between thesupplim and the purchaser.

8.2 Permissible Deviations in Dimensions

8.2.1 In the production of lasts for footwear with heightof heel up to 30 mm, width of insole may be reducedat the joint by 2 mm and at the heel by 1 mm.

10

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IS 15196:2002

~=

b=L=

Wioln

MEASURINGLINE

O WIDTH

INSOLE SHAPE MARKING WHEN TRANSFER REDTO LAST BOTTOM

IN

SHOWING HOW THE TAPE ISPLACEb ON THE BODY OF THE

LAST FOR BALL GIRTH MEAWREMENT

maximum distance be~eenbaIl measuring line and&eadwidth=2O mm.

distance between instep and ball pin-points =60 mm.

standard length of insole.

FIG. 9 LOCATIONOFGIRTHMEASURINGPOINTS

8.2.2 In the production of lasts for footwear with heightof heel 35 to 40 mm, width of insole may be reducedin the joint by 6 mm and in the heel by 1 mm.

8.2.3 In the production of lasts of shoes with height ofheels 45 to 50 mm, width of insole maybe reduced inthe joint by 6 mm and in the heel by 3 mm.

8.2.4 In the production of lasts for boots and sandals,width of insole may be increased in the joints by2.5 mm and in the heel by 1.5 mm.

8.2.5 In the production of lasts for Oxford shoes (lowheel shoes) instep girth may be reduced by 3 mm fromstandard and the upper heel part may be thinner thanthat of boot last.

8.2.6 Instep girth may be increased for the productionof lasts for marching boots by 20 mm and for sandalsby 10 mm than the corresponding ball measurements.

8.2.7 Characteristics of Finishing Last (see Fig. 10)

8.2.7.1 Toe

Thickness shall be same as that of lasting last.

8.2.7.2 Length of insole

This shall be one size shorter than the lasting last atthe back portion only. But the length of the last betweentip of the toe and centre of the heel curve (as measuredin size stick) shall remain the same as that ofcorresponding lasting last.

11

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IS 15196:2002

LASTING LAST /

LENGTH OF LAST SAME ASLASTING LAST

4

~\~~T#NG [~NJ~HING

----

ir

I

GRADUALLY

TOE SAME ASLASTING LAST HEEL WIDTH 5mm

NARROWER THANLASTING LAST—

NOTES

1 Lower heel part must be sharply rounded along profile.

2 Insole length one size shorter than lasting last. But length of last between tip of tbe toe and centre of the heel curve (as measured in sizestick) shalIremain same as corresponding lasting last.

3 Joint and instep girth half fitting less than corresponding lasting last.

4 Other characteristics same as lasting last.

5 Bottom plates, tubes, reinforcer or hinges may not be required.

FIG. 10 CHARACTERISTICSOFFINISHINGLAST

8.2.7.3 Heel width of insole

There shall be no change for toe to ball, but thereafter

gradually narrowing towards heel until the widest part

of the heel where it shall be 5 mm less than the lasting

last.

8.2.7.4 The heel in the lower part (along the profile)

shall have a rounded form.

8.2.7.5 Joint and instep girths shall be one-half fitting

less than corresponding lasting last.

8.3 Toe-Spring

The standard length of toe-spring in relation to pitch(height of heel) shall be as follows according to thenature of the shoe when measured according to themethod as prescribed in 11.8 (see Fig. 11).

Nature of Shoe Toe-Springmm

Normal men’s shoe 12-14Ladies/Junior shoes on low heel 10-12Ladies shoes on medium heel 8-10Ladies shoes on high heel 6-8

Where other heights of heels are employed, the toe-spring shall be as follows:

Height of Heel Toe-Springmm mm10 1320 1230 1140 1050 960 870 7

12

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IS 15196:2002

LEVEL SURFACE

t

—-s L ~T

,

S= toe-spring or spring.

H= height of heel or pitch.

T= tread line contact.

FIG. llPITCH AND TOE-SPRINGOFLAST

The relation between toe-springaml height of heelfor consecutive increase and decrease of size shall beas follows:

Height of Heel Toe-Springmm

1:;0 0.530-60 1.560 and above 1.5

NOTE—For every 10 mm increase of heel height, the treadpoint moves 2.5 mm forward.

8.4 Height of Quarter

In order to have a uniform and accurate quarter heightin finished footwear and to minimize the effort in thefootwear manufacturing process (pulling over, lasting,etc), a demarcation along the centre line of the heel-curve from the seat edge position shall be made so asto conform to the requirements given for quarter-height pin in Fig. 12 either by putting a pin-point orby a saw-cut.

8.5 The requirement for toe thickness, quarter heightpin, width of top, and height of heel and length aswell as width grade for insole of last shall be as givenin Fig. 12.

9 MARKING AND PACKING

9.1 Marking

9.1.1 On all lasts, on the outsider side of the heelportion, the number of model (article number), alsoheight of heel in millimetres for all ladies lasts shallbe marked (see Fig. 13).

9.1.2 On the cone and inside of the V-cut, size andfitting number shall be marked.

9.1.3 In addition, on every cut wedge (inside) of thescoop block lasts, size and fitting number, serialnumber or any other identification (so that the wedgescould be easily traceable) shall be marked.

9.1.4 On every box the trade-mark, number of pairsof lasts according to each style, size fitting and modelnumber and mass shall be marked.

9.2 BIS Certification Marking

The product may also be marked with Standard Mark.

9.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed bythe provision of Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986

and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. Thedetails of conditions under which the licence for theuse of Standard Mark maybe granted to manufacturersor producers may be obtained from the Bureau ofIndian Standards.

9.3 Packing

Last shall be properly packed in boxes made of woodenplanks or corrugated boxes in conformity to therequirements prescribed in 9.3.1.

9.3.1 Boxes shall be lined with wrapping paper (waterproof) and a layer of soft, dry shavings along the bottomand the sides. The lasts shall be packed tightly in rowsin such a way that metallic parts of the lasts comeopposite to one another. The space between individuallasts shall be filled with paper or dry shavings. On thelasts packed in this way, a second layer of dry shavingsof paper shall be spread and in the same order a secondrow shall be packed. In this way the packing shall becontinued further till the box is filled with lasts uptothe upper edges. The top row of lasts shall be coveredwith a layer of dry shavings or by wrapping paper.

Nails for fixing the cover lid shall be correctly drivenin and shall not come out from the boards on the inneror outer surface of the box.

10 SAMPLING AM) CRITEIUAFORCO~O~

For the purpose of ascertaining the conformity of laststo this standard, the scale of sampling and criteria forconformity shall be as given in Annex A.

13

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MARKIN

\

G

\

Measurement for Quarter-Height Pin is Determined from the Seat-Edge(s) of the Last

Men Ladies and Range 4 Chiidren Range O, 1,2 & 3

E Inside back Quarter’) height-pin Inside back height Quafie/) height.pin Inside backQuarter’)

.-: height (shoe) on the last (shoe) height-pin onon last height (shoe)

last

1 27.5 29.02z~

29.0 30.5

= 3 30.5 32.04 32.0 33.5

n 35.0 36.5

36.0 38.01

118! I I ! 38.0 I 38.5 I9 39.5 41.0

: 100

41.0 42.5> 11A 43.0 44.5

~ 12 44.5 46.013 46.0 47.51 47.5 49.02

$ q49.0 50.5

.-C51.0 52.5

a 4 53.0 54.5 52.5 54.05 54.0 55.5 54.0 55.5

6 55.0 56.5 55.5 57.0c 7 56.5 58.0 57.0!! 8

58.558.0

s g’59.5 59.0 60.5

60.0 61.5

10 61.0 62.5

11 63.0 64.5~ ,2 64.5 66.0

1)Measured on last heel curve by taPe.

Alldimensionsin millimetres.

FIG. 12 QUARTER-HEIGHTMARK IN BACK LINE OFLAST

11 TEST METHODS 11.1.2 To ensure that whether the longitudinal and

Visual characteristics shall be checked in accordance transverse sections, as well as heel parts and bottom

with model or approved sample. shape of any size in a set of lasts conform to thespecified dimensions for shape and measurements,

11.1 Dimensional Characteristics graded insole patterns and various graded control

Checking of the lasts shall relate to the following profiles including back curve of the heel and toe profile

dimensions, measurements and various control for the entire size range shall be used.

patterns and gauges (see Fig. 14). NOTE — The patterns for insole and profile shall be cut to the

11.1.1 Length of lasts shall be measured by size-stickmaster of model size, from which remaining sizes shall be graded.It gives length, shape, width of the forepart and seat and to this

the proportions for the contiguous sizes is based on extent it is suitable for testing the lasts.Oraclesare fixedarbitrarilythe given standard length for each heel height. and adopted by custom in the last industry.

14

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IS 15196:2002

SIZE COLOURING

OUTER SIDE OF HEEL

Yk!!r

4@ I#;EI?~& SIDE

1- MODEL No. :

2- SIZE 2 : 1- TRADE MARK3- FITTING

8-4 2- OATE OF

L - HEEL HEIGHT ~o MANUFACTURE

I*3ON THE CONE ANOINSIOE OF ‘V’ CUT

‘ /1/1- SIZE2- FITTING

ON OUTSIDE JOINT~}~\\\-lNi’vJ

cFITTING

.

COLOURING

h

,

,

g

L

1- BALL dE-MEASUREMENT

{

0

FIG. 13 MARKING OFLAST

11.1.3 On the superimposition, the profile pattern of thelongitudinal bottom section (generally called ‘bottomprofile’) shall coincide with the axis of the bottom of thelast along with the contour of the heel back curve.

11.1.4 Measurement of the last shall be done by astandard last measuring tape (a tape of non-variabledimensions with fine metallic wire inside); the widthof the tape shall not be more than 10 mm.

11.1.5 During measurement of the joint and instep girth,the measuring tape shall be placed on the last in such away that the measuring edge of the tape fits closely andlies flat on the last along the line of measurement.

11.1.6 During measurement of instep girth of the lasts,the measuring edge of the tape on the comb shall comein contact with the marked point. Near the bottom,the tape shall settle in the most concave part of thelast in such a manner as to give during thismeasurement of the last the smallest size.

11.2 The location of the joint shall be measured asdesmibed in Annex B.

11.2.1 An approximate position for location of the balland instep girth measurement in insole pattern isshown in Fig. 13. This system requires little skill andcan be performed without the help of any apparatusand as such may be adopted as a standard practice.

NOTE — Although the joint girth measurement is takendiagonally in a traverse direction, makers of lasts take thismeasurement at arbitrary points to enable them to place themeasuring tape flat to the last. Generally this is taken in either theinside or outside point but never both.

11.3 Following the system described above, forchecking the correctness of position of pin-points, the

bottom of the last and the insole, checked by markedlines is superimposed so that starting from the toe partit coincides all over with the bottom of the last.

11.3.1 Pin-points at the joints (inside and outside) shallbe exactly located on the last at the ends of lines abovethe contour (feather edge) of the lasts at a distance of10 mm.

11.3.2 Correctness of the position of the pin-pointslocated on the body of the last at the base of the instep(along the centre line of the last) is checked either bythe measuring tape with the help of two pin-points ofthe joints for measurement of the ball girth; or by thelongitudinal front profile, which with the work pointas put on the last and the coincidence of the pin-pointon the last with the point of the profile is observed.

11.4 For the determination of the correctness of theposition of the pin-point for measurement of instepgirth on the cone of the last, the following method isrecommended.

11.4.1 The position is represented on the last, alongthe middle of the cone, at a distance of 60 mm abovethe ball joint pin-point, located at the base of the instep.This is the standard practice for men’s lasts, practicefollowed for other categories is given in Fig. 14.

11.4.2 To ascertain the girth of the instep, the tapeshould lie flat and close to the last on the selected points.

NOTE—Like the joint meaauremen~ the instep measurementmay not also be located exactly by rule. Half standard strength ofthe last (excluding the difference between tbe length of the insoleand foot), on an imaginary line through the length maybe givenas the approximateposition.The largestgirth at that point probablyanswers the purpose best.

15

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LENGTH OF LAST

f%

COMPARISON OFTHE RIGHT SIOELAST TO THE LEFT-ONES (OPTICALCOMPARISON)

TOEPROFILE

,WINSOLE OF LAST

CONTOUR- FINOER

W(7-.r- 7--

I II tI 1

1, ‘8-T ----

:

I T1

--

t

I

POSITION OF THE TUBE VERTICAL TO THESURFACE OF THE HEEL

BOTTOM PROFILE

QUARTER HEIGHT - PIN

m/-~.-_---=_.-—..‘- ~~---

- —-.-

CROSS SECTION OFPROPERLY FITTED TUBE

eOIAMETER OF TUBE

q

0

*

HEIGHT OF LAST

FIG. 14 CHECKINGOFLAST

. ,;

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11.5 Checking of the Insole Pattern of Medium Size

In order to check the basic dimensions of the insole, itis necessary to determine the position of points ofmeasurement.

11.5.1 Position of points shall be measured by a specialpattern or template, the construction of which is givenin Annex B.

11.5.2 Test carefully graded patterns of insole beforehand and profile templates of longitudinal andtransverse sections used for checking of the lasts.

NOTE—The actual stick-lengthof last may vary fiequemtlyfromthe standard length of insole pattern. The insole length shall bealways 2 to 3 mm shorter than the stick-length by virtue of theback curve protruding beyond it. The occupied stick length of alast is the distance from the centre of the curve at the back to theextreme tip of the toe. The actual size-stick length is not to beused to denote the foot fitting length of last. For a given shoe orlast size, the foot shall be shortertban the insole by at least 10mmwhen measurement is taken in a sitting position.

11.6 The height of the last and the dimensions of thetube shall be measured by calipers.

IS 15196:2002

11.7 The height of quarter pin mark or vamp workshall be measured by tape or gauge.

11.8 Measurement of Heel Height

Place the last on a level surface, Raise the seat of thelast until the tread line touches the level surface. Thenmeasure the heel height (from the seat position to thelevel surface) (see Fig. 11), Take care that the seat ofthe last rests almost parallel to the ground.

11.9 Mechanical and Other Requirements

Following items shall be tested for mechanical andother requirements by cutting or opening up thelasts:

a)

b)

c)

d)

Dimensions of the tube,

Proper fitting of the tube,

Measuring the position of the tube verticalto the surface of the heel, and

Carrying out test for the metallic componentsas detailed in 5 to 8.

ANNEX A

(Clause 10)

SAMPLING PROCEDURE AND CRfTERIA FOR CONFORMITY

A-1 SAMPLING OF FOOTWEAR LASTS

A-1.l All last pairs in a consignment of the same style,type, size and fitting and belonging to the same batchof manufacture shall be grouped together to constitutea lot.

A-1.2 For ascertaining the conformity of the lot to therequirements of this standard, tests shall be carried outfor each lot separately. The number of last pairs; to bedrawn from any lot shall depend on the size of the lotand shall be in accordance with CO1.1 and 2 of Table 3.

A-1.3 Such pairs shall be selected at random from thelot and in order to ensure the randomness of selection,a random number table (see IS 4905) shall be used. Incase such a table is not available, the followingprocedure shall be used. Arrange all the pairs in the lotin a systematic manner and starting from any pair, countthem as 1, 2, 3.... up to r and soon in one order, wherer is the integral part of Ah (N being the total numberof pairs in the lot and n being the number of paris to beselected from the sample). Every rth pair thus countedshall be withdrawn to give sample for the test.

Table 3 Scale of Sampling

(Clauses A-1.2. A-2.1.2 and A-2.2. 1)

No. of Last Visual Characteristics DimensionalPairs in the Characteristics

Lot ~~Sample Permissible Sample Permissible

No. of No. ofDefective Dcfkctives

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)up to20 All o 51) o

21 “ 50 20 1 8 051 “ 100 32 2 13

101 “ 3000

50 3 20 0301 “ I Ool 80 5 32 1

1001 “ 3000 125 7 50 2300I andabove 200 10 80 3

1)AIIifthenumberinthelotislessthan5.

A-2 NUMBER OF TESTS AND CRITERIA FORCONFORMITY

A-2.1 Number of Tests

A-2.1.1 A last which has one or more defects withrespect to a quality characteristics under consideration,shall be called a defective last.

17

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IS 15196:2002

A-2.1.2 All the pairs selected shall be firstexamined for visual characteristics. If the numberof pairs failing to satisfy these requirements for anycharacteristics is less than or equal to thepermissible number of defective given in CO13 ofTable 3, the lot shall be declared to have satisfiedthe requirements for these characteristics. If,however, the number of defective pairs exceed thepermissible number, the lot shall be considered asnot conforming to the requirements for thesecharacteristics.

A-2.2 Dimensional Characteristics

The lot which has been found satisfactory, shall nextbe tested for dimensional characteristics.

A-2.2.1 The pairs for this purpose shall be taken fromthose already tested for visual characteristics and theirnumber shall be in accordance with CO14 of Table 3.These pairs shall be taken at random and tested for thedimensional characteristics. If the number of pairs failingto satisfy the requirements for these characteristics is lessthan or equal to the number giveninCO15 of Table 3, thelot shall be declared to have satisfied the requirementsfor these characteristics, otherwise not.

ANNEX B

(CkzuSeS11.2 and 11.5.1)

DETAILS OF INSOLE CONSTRUCTION

B-1 DIRECTION FOR THE DESIGN OF INSOLE

B.1.l The insole of the last shall be cut to the designand shape as given in Fig. 15 with the details givenbelow:

Foot length, mm 258Minimum toe allowance, mm 13Total or standard length, mm 27Girth of ball, mm 239Girth of heel, mm 337Heel height, mm 20

B-1.2 Directions for the design of inside shall be givenas below.

B-1 .2.1 Draw AD through mid-points of heel andsecond toe.

B-1 .2.2 Locate A at a distance of 5 mm inside theedge of the heel line. Through A and at right angledraw A, A2 which is 10 mm long. A is middle point ofA, Az.

B-1.2.3 Locate ball point Bon AD making AB = 2/3of total or standard length (standard length is equal tofoot length + allowance for toe) or shoe size length.Through B draw B1Bz (at right angles to AD) = 1/3ball measurement of 5 to 10 mm, which in addition isgoverned by the type of last to be made (men 10 mm,ladies and children 5 mm).

BIB = 1/2 (BIBJ -5 mm, and

B2B = 1/2 (BIBJ +-5 mm.

B-1.2.4 From B2 drop a perpendicular B2BJ = 2 cmfor men,

1.5 cm for women/maid/youth,

1.2 cm for boy/girl (9-1% sizes), and

1.0 cm for children (sizes 1-8%)

B-1.2.5 Join BIB, and along this line, girth of ball orjoint shall be measured on ready last. The ball jointB1B2 is the tread line.

B-1.2.6 Remaining one-third of total length isindicated by BD through C that is at foot length drawCICZat right angle to AC, Cl Cz = 4.5 cm if the toe isnarrow and 5 cm, if the toe is broad.

CC, = 3/5 (CICz) and CCZ= 2/5 (C,c2)

B-1.2.7 An allowance of minimum 10 mm is alwaysadded on the foot measurement to review thecorresponding closed toe and back shoe size. Theactual total insole length (standard length) needs tobe longer than the foot for feeling comfort as well asfor the sake of style in case of closed type of footwear.If the toe is very narrow, add another 5 to 10 mm tostandard length. For open toe and back footwear last,

18

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IS 15196:2002 . .

LENGTH GRAOEHEIGHT OF LAST( HIGHEST POINTAT HEEL CURVEl-

- TOESPRING

- — W!O’TMA

POSITION MEASURINGTOE HEIGHT OF

IGHTHEEL

GRADE

WIOTH OF THE TOP TOBE MEASURED Ar THEWIOEST PART OF THE

TOP

All dimensionsin millimetres.

FIG. 15 GRADINGOFLAST PROFILESIPATTERNSIAREA

no additional allowance is needed at the toe. In this

case, a full length standard length for insole open toe

and back last is needed. Here CD is an extension fortoe allowance = 13 mm (that is, 1!4 English size), soAD = total length or standard length.

B~l.2.8 The axis line is drawn from A, cutting throughBIB2through a point 10 to 15 mm (depending on sizes)towards right side of B and make it A.

B-1 .2.9 On the axis line locate E + 1/6 of total length,through E draw ElE2 at right angle to the axis: EEiEE2. EIEZis 1/5 of heel measurement minus 5 mm formen and children; and for ladies further 1 mm lessfor heel height 1-3 and 1.5 mm for heel height over

3 cm. The heel outline or feather edge is made alwayssymmetrical along the axis and approximately 1/4 oftotal length.

B-1.2.1O Bisect E to get F, extendFto F, at right anglesto AB; FF1 = 5 to 15 mm (depending on heel height).Extend FIF to the edge of foot impression (or, 5 mminside foot outline) and establish point F2; in other wordsFFZ= 2FF1 + 10 mm. Location of Fz or rather entirelength F1F2 is determined in relation to the height ofheel. Higher the heel narrower will be FIFZ.

B-1.3 Join all the salient points established so far andnow draw the shape of insole bearing two factors inmind, namely, foot comfort and style.

19

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IS 15196:2002

ANNEX C

(Foreword)

COMMITTEE COMPOSITION

Footwear Sectional Committee, CHD 19

Organization

Footwear Design and Development Institute, Noida

Bata India Ltd, Kolkata

Bengal Water-Proof Ltd, Kolkata

Bihar Rubber Company, Ranchi

Border Security Force, New Delhi

Central Leather Research institute, Chennai

Central Reserve Police Force, New Delhi

Directorate General of Mines Safety, Dhanbad

Footfonn, Kolkata

Footwear Design and Development Institute, Noida

Indian Leather Technologists’ Association, Kolkata

Indo-Tibetian Border Police, New Delhi

Lakhani India Ltd, Faridabad

Madura Coats Limited, Madurai

Ministry of Defence (DGQA), New Delhi

Ministry of Defence (R& D), Kanpur

Ministry of Industries, Government of India, New Delhi

Office of the Development Commissioner (SS1), New Delhi

RITES, Kolkata

Standing Committee for Safety in Steel Industry, Durgapur

Steel Authority of India Ltd, Ranchi

The Indian Rubber Institute, Kolkata

BIS Directorate General

Representative(s)

Smt ANUPCHAICRAVORTV(Chairman)

SHRIK. CHAITERJEE

SHRID. BANERJI(Alternate)

SHRIB. BANERJI

SHRIJ. BASAK

SHRIP. S. DHILLON

SHRIB. N. DASSHRIG. Mo. SADIQ(Alternate)

%FTUZSENTATWE

SHRIB. BATTACHARYA

SHRIU. S. PAULSHRIS. D. PAUL(Alternate)

SHIUV. B. PARVA?KAR

DR ALOKTYAGI(Alternate)

SHRIS. K. BHAORASHRtA. K. BASU(Alternate)

~RJ?S13TATtVE

SHRtG. MITRA

SHtUS. BANERJEESHRIK. S. RAMA RAO (Alternate)

SHRtGAUTAMGUFTASHRtG. C. KANAUJIYA (Alternate)

SHRtANILAGARWALSHRtB. B. DAS(Alternate)

SHRIP. K. JAINSHRIN. C. TIWARI(Alternate)

SHRIS. K. BASU

Member Secretary

Smu P.MOKHOPADHVAYDirector (Chem), BIS

SHtUSHIBKOMAR

SHRIS. C. SHARMASHRtR. R. GARG(Alternate)

SHRIB. DUTTASHRJAMITAVAPAL(Alternate)

SHRIS. K. CHOUDHARI,Director & Head (Chem)

[Representing Director General (Ex-oficio)]

20

(Continued on page 21)

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IS 15196:2002

(Continuedjom pcge 20)

Composition of Footwear Sizes and Lasts Subcommittee, CHD 19:02

Organization

Footform, Kolkata

Bata India Ltd, Kolkata

Bengal Water-Proof Ltd, Kolkata

Central Leather Research Institute, Chennai

Indian Leather Technologists’ Association, Kolkata

Ministry of Defence (DGQA), New Delhi

Sun Footwear Industries, Kanpur

Toscana Lasts Ltd, Noida

TheIndianRubberInstitute,Kolkata

Representative(s)

SHRJU. S. PAUL (Convener)

SHRIS. K. NEOOI

SHRIB. BANERJI

SHRIB. N. DASSHRJG. GOPALKRJSHNAN(Alternate)

SHRJS. K.BHADRASHJUA. K. BASU(Alternate)

SHRIGAUTAMGUPTASHRJG. C. KANAUJIYA(Alternate)

SHRIP. DEYSHRJS. K. GARG(Alternate)

SHJUVJNEETCHHABRASHRJS. P. CHAUHAN(Alternate)

SHRIB. DUITASHRJAMITAVAPAL(Alternate)

21

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Bureau of Indian Standards

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Copyright

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Review of Indian Standards

Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewedperiodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates that no changes areneeded; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standardsshould ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of‘BIS Catalogue’ and ‘Standards: Monthly Additions’.

This Indian Standard has been developed from Doc : No. CHD 019 (571).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

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