K1200LT Tail Trunk Latch Handle Repair Kit Installation ... · This is also a good time to compare the kit you received with the inventory descriptions and pictures found on the last

K1200LT Tail Trunk Latch Handle Repair Kit Installation Instructions. ©LTLatchHandle.com, 20062009

Introduction, Outline, tools and materials

Thank you for your purchase of the K1200LT Trunk Latch Handle Repair kit! We've spent considerable time and effort to provide you with a high quality, easy to install kit. Please read and understand these instructions before beginning your repair. If you have any questions or concerns, please have them answered before starting your install. Though every attempt has been made to ensure these instructions and kit components are as complete and accurate as possible, you assume all responsibility and liability for your install. We will not be responsible for any damages you may incur during or as a result of your repair.

Inspect your kit – become familiar with all the parts, fasteners, their names and procedures described here. This is also a good time to compare the kit you received with the inventory descriptions and pictures found on the last pages of these instructions.

Replacing your broken latch handle is a 4 step process:1. Remove the latch assembly from your LT2. Remove the broken latch handle from the latch assembly3. Assemble the new latch to the assembly4. Reinstall the latch assembly to your LT

Tools Required:

1. A power drill and 5/16” (8mm) drill bit to remove the rivets that fasten the assembly to the tail trunk.2. A “Dremel”type mototool fitted with an abrasive cutoff wheel to grind the swaged connections on

the OEM Latch Hook Bar (see Photo 11)3. Allen wrenches – 3 total: 2.5, 3 and 4 mm4. LongReach Pliers with Flat Nose (see Photo 7)5. Small flat blade screw driver6. Small Philips head screwdriver.

Chemical Materials Required:

1. Cyanoacrylate adhesive (Super glue)2. All purpose lubricant (TriFlo, wax/oil type bicycle lube, or light machine oil)3. Thread locker (Loctite® blue)

Again, ensure you understand all of these procedures and each step before beginning.

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Several of the original parts removed from the latch are not reused. DO NOT DISCARD ANY PARTS UNTIL REASSEBMLY IS COMPLETE AND YOU'RE SURE YOU WON'T NEED THEM!

Ready? Good! Lets get started....Remove the Latch Assembly from the Tail Trunk

1. Brace the top of the tail trunk in the fully open position1. The box this kit was shipped to you in will work. Place it between the passenger seat and the back

rest. It will hold the trunk lid up, off the passenger seat – protecting the trunk lid hinges from over extending when the retention strap is released.

2. Release the trunk lid retention strap from the lower half of the tail trunk

PHOTO 1

1. Remove the thumbscrew from the lower case2. Slip the retention strap off the lower case

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PHOTO 2

3. Remove the trunk liner.1. Using a flat blade screw driver, push the liner retention clips towards the rear of the bike. They are

accessed through the slots in the liner where the Latch Hooks penetrate the liner

PHOTO 3

2. Lift the liner out of the tail trunk. The rest of the liner is held in by loop/hook fasteners. Pull firmly, it will come out.

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PHOTO 4

4. Remove the Latching Bar from its mounting channel1. Remove the 'E' clips that retain the actuator arm pins. Then the pins themselves. 2. Remove the 'E' clips from the Latch hook pivot pins and then the pivot pins themselves.3. Lift the Latch Bar with the latch hooks on each end out of the latch bar channel

1. Don't lose the pins that link the Latch Hooks to the Latch Bar. They slide out easily.5. Release the 3 rivets holding the Latch Bar Channel to the bike

1. Using a power drill with a 5/16” (8mm) drill bit, remove the 3 rivet heads. All you need to do is release the heads from the rivets. Don't attempt to remove the complete rivet. Once the rivet heads have been removed, you can pull the Channel off of the rivets and out of the trunk.

2. Remove the white, plastic spacer. It should just slip off6. Release the 4 rivets that hold the latch assembly to the tail trunk.

1. Use the same procedure as above. You may have to push the rivets out of their holes with a small punch or screw driver. NOTE: the material behind the rivet heads is plastic – don't drill into it!

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PHOTO 5

7. Once all the rivets are freed, the latch assembly can be pulled out and down off the tail trunk. Be careful – it may just fall out when the rivets are pushed out.

NOTE: When you're drilling out the rivets, the rivets will often spin with the drill bit. This is counterproductive. Don't push the bit into the rivet. Use a light touch. You can also tilt the drill over at an angle, while drilling. As soon as the head of the rivet separates, stop. Try not to overdrill, or overspin the rivet body, as you could create additional clearance in the plastic holes of the bracket. This is not good, because you'll later use those holes to grip onto a threaded inserts that are furnished with the handle kit.

Congratulations! Phase one is complete.

Disassemble the Latch Assembly1. Remove the old latch handle from the plastic mounting bracket.

1. Remove the 'E' clips from the end(s) of the hinge pin. Some LT’s have ‘E’ clips on both ends of the hinge pin, some have a roll pin in one end and ‘E’ clip on the other end. And some LT’s have disposable ‘push nuts’, like the one pictured below, in PHOTO 6.

PHOTO 6

2. Pull the hinge pin from the assembly. Don't lose the hinge pin!3. If your hinge pin has a roll pin in one end like the picture below, use the pliers to remove the roll

pin from the hinge pin.

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PHOTO 7 PHOTO 8

The handle is now separated from the Plastic Mounting Bracket.

2. Remove the Actuator Arms from the old Latch Handle Assembly (PHOTO 9). You must first remove the ‘E’ clips, using a small flatbladed screw driver (or 2). It’s a little bit tedious, but persistence will pay off.

3. Remove the disposable ‘Push Nuts’ that secure the Latch Hooks by tapping a screwdriver into the gap and twisting, PHOTO 10.

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PHOTO 9 PHOTO 10

4. Remove the Latch Hook Bar locking bar from the old Latch Handle Assembly, using a “Dremel”type mototool with an abrasive cutoff wheel attached, as seen in PHOTO 11.

PHOTO 11 PHOTO 12

1. Grind only one side. Try to avoid excessive grinding, grind only enough to remove the swaged region down to the surface of the Latch Hook. If you can keep the ground area small in diameter (smaller that the diameter of the screw head that you’ll assemble), you will retain the corrosionresistant characteristics of the yellow plating (PHOTO 12) Next, you’ll need to separate the Latch

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Hook from the OEM Latch Hook Bar. Despite grinding away the swaged material you will likely need to exert pretty good force to get the parts separated. Smacking the backsides of each Latch Hook with a screwdriver/hammer combination has proved successful (PHOTO 13). Remove the parts shown in PHOTO 14 and proceed to grind the remaining swaged connection to remove the OEM Latch Hook Bar from the remaining Latch Hook.

PHOTO 13 PHOTO 14

2. Please be aware that the springs are not identical, rather they are mirrored designs. Perhaps you should label which one is left side/right side.

3. Remove the Lock Cartridge Retainer and Lock Cartridge from the old Latch Handle. Save all removed parts, PHOTO 15. NOTE: Some LT’s were furnished with “Torx” screws, some have Philips Head screws.

PHOTO 15

Congratulations! You've completed phase two. Now we can begin reassembling everything with the new

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parts.

Assembly the new Latch Handle Kit

During assembly, please use diligent care in not scratching the outer surface of the handle!! It’s a good idea to use a thick, soft towel between the work bench and the handle surface, AS PICTURED!!

1. Mount the Latch Hooks 1. Start with either side – the hooks are interchangeable2. Put the shoulder screw through the appropriate hole of the Latch Hook

1. Verify hook orientation3. Slip a spring bushing onto the screw, PHOTO 16

PHOTO 16 PHOTO 17

4. Refit the return spring on to the hook. 1. Verify spring orientation, PHOTO 17.

5. Apply thread locker only to the internal threads of the latch handle, PHOTO 18 and PHOTO 19. An unfolded paper clip works very well.

6. Screw the assembly shown in PHOTO 17 into the Latch Handle, making sure the flat end of the spring is deflected onto the flat surface on the Latch Handle. Make sure the assembly doesn’t bind as you tighten the stainless steel shoulder screw. Tighten it firmly, but do not overtighten.

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PHOTO 18 PHOTO 19

7. Please verify free movement and the spring action of each of the Latch Hooks.2. Assemble the Lock Cylinder, Spring, and Lock Cylinder Retainer into the NEW Latch Handle. Only

tighten the screws modestly, please do not overtighten and break the plastic Lock Cartridge Retainer. NOTE: There is no need for thread locker on these 3 screws.

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PHOTO 20

3. Install the Latch Hook Bar furnished with the kit. The OEM component that you ground down and removed is not needed.

1. Put a drop of thread locker on each of the 2 screws and install the Latch Hook Bar by pushing on both Latch Hooks to raise them so that the Latch Hook Bar will be on top of the black tab on the Lock Cartridge.

2. When the screws are tight, the hooks must be aligned. Here’s how to do it! Lightly tighten both screws. Now lift the assembly up off of the tab on the Lock Cartridge (you don’t want to break it by exerting excessive force), and fully tighten the screw on the left side.

3. NOW, push the assembly to the Latch Hook OPEN position shown in PHOTO 21. Push both Latch Hooks until they both contact the “wall” on the Latch Handle. Now fully tighten the screw on the right. By first tightening the screw on the left, THEN the one on the right, the tightening torque on the right screw serves to force both Latch Hooks against the “wall”. The Latch Hooks are aligned if they both contact the “wall”. If not, loosen the screw on the right and repeat until they are aligned.

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PHOTO 21

4. Mount the Latch Struts to the Latch Handle.

1. Using a paper clip, apply threadlocker to the inside of the threaded holes, as seen in PHOTO 22 and PHOTO 23.

PHOTO 22 PHOTO 23

2. Please pay particular attention to the fact that the long screw (M5 x 16) is installed on the left side (PHOTO 24), and the short screw (M5 x 10) goes on the right side.

3. When installing the Latch Struts, each screw is lightly tightened, then LOOSENED a small amount, about 1/8 turn, to allow each strut to pivot about its screw. You MUST wait at least 15

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minutes (30 or more is preferable) for the threadlocker to cure before proceeding with the installation process.

4. Ensure free movement of each Latch Strut.

PHOTO 24

5. Fit the inserts to the Plastic Mounting Bracket. The purpose of the glue is to retain the inserts in the plastic mounting bracket until the screws are installed. Once attached, the glue serves no further purpose. If you find that the inserts fit the holes tightly, then no glue is needed. Use the glue only if you encounter an insert that is loose in the plastic hole.

PHOTO 25

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1. NOTE: The larger inserts go in the top 3 holes, the 4 smaller ones on the bracket face. Do not mix them. They are not interchangeable. Position the inserts on the bracket. Push them into their holes firmly. These inserts use what's called an 'interference' fit. They should be difficult to push into the holes. PHOTO 25

2. If you encounter loose insert(s) that do not exhibit an interference fit, put a drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive on the outside, smaller diameter only of the insert, and install in the correct location.

NOTE: Before applying glue to the inserts, ensure you understand their proper orientation! AVOID GETTING SUPER GLUE ON YOUR SKIN!

6. Mount the Latch Handle to the Plastic Mounting Bracket1. Insert a set screw into one of the hinge holes, tighten until it becomes firmly tight. The set screw

should be below the surface that it is installed through. Thread locker is not needed here, nor is lubrication.

2. Place the handle in the proper position on the bracket. Note the orientation of the flat leaf spring to the 16mm long screw, as seen in PHOTO 26, on the left side of the photo.

3. Slide the hinge pin through the opposite hole in the handle, through the bracket holes and into the pivot pin hole where the first set screw is.

4. Secure the 2nd set screw and tighten firmly, as you did with the first set screw.

PHOTO 26

At this time, it’s advisable to sparingly apply lubricant to the pivoting areas of the assembly. I personally prefer bicycle lubricant that is composed of a solution of alcohol and waxy lubricant. It’s

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good stuff; the alcohol thins out the lubricant’s viscosity, allowing it to readily flow into the areas that you’re trying to lubricate. Then the alcohol evaporates, leaving the waxy lubricant that doesn’t attract/hold dirt the way that oil does.

Congratulations! You've completed phase three.

ReAssembly of the Trunk Latch Assembly

1. Fit the assembly to the trunk. Notice that the top of the Plastic Mounting Bracket has 3 male bosses that must fit into the holes in the trunk case.1. Holding the Assembly in place, insert the 4 M4 x 10 screws into the back of the bracket and

tighten them only until they contact – do not tighten! Firm them up just enough to keep the bracket from falling out

2. Place the white plastic spacer over the 3 holes. Ensure the slots go over the actuator arms

3. Fit the Latching bar channel to the tail trunk1. Insert the 3 M4 x 16 screws into the top of the assembly. Tighten them firmly, but do not over

tighten.When securing the bracket and channel, do not push the inserts out of the bracket with the screws!

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2. Now, firm up the 4 bracket screws. Do not over tighten. All of the inserts are in plastic, it will compress slightly when you tighten these screws. Do not crush the plastic.

4. Refit the latch bar assembly

1. Verify the hooks and their pins (these pins do not have 'E' clips) are in place on the latch bar2. Place the bar in its channel3. Secure using its pins that pass through the hooks themselves and 'E' clips4. Refit the actuator arm pins through the latch bar and the ends of the arms5. Insert the actuator arm 'E' clips

5. Replace the trunk liner1. It just drops in, press firm enough for the retention clips to slide past the ends of the latch hook

pins. You may have to push them in a manor similar to removal.

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6. Refit the retention strap to the lower case1. Slide the loop of the retention strap over the holder on the lower case2. Screw in the retention strap screw

Congratulations! You've completed phase four of these instructions and more importantly, your repair! Thank you for your business!

Kit Contents

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(Upper Left)2 Spring Bushings(Lower, left to right)2 Shoulder Screws1 M5 x 16 button head screw1 M5 x 10 button head screw 2 M4 x 10 button head screws1 Latch Hook Bar2 M8 x 8 Set Screws

4 'small' inserts4 M4 x 10 button head screws (this makes a total of 6 M4x10 screws in the kit)3 'large' inserts3 M4 x 16 button head screws

And of course – the CNC milled billet aluminum Latch Handle itself.

The inserts are packaged on their screws for shipping. This is to aid in their identification. The 3 large and 4 smaller inserts are not interchangeable! Do not get them mixed up.

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Any application of thread locker must be to THREADED PORTIONS of HOLES, NOT the external screw threads! Apply sparingly! Thread locker in the wrong place will prevent the latch from working correctly. Use a wire, toothpick or other probe to place a drop of thread locker INSIDE the internal threaded holes.

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Any application of thread locker must be to THREADED PORTIONS of HOLES, NOT the external screw threads! Apply sparingly! Thread locker in the wrong place will prevent the latch from working correctly. Use a wire, toothpick or other probe to place a drop of thread locker INSIDE the internal threaded holes.

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Documents

K1200LT Tail Trunk Latch Handle Repair Kit Installation ... · This is also a good time to compare the kit you received with the inventory descriptions and pictures found on the last