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Male haircuts

Classic cut

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Classic cut

Men's haircuts tend to be short, layered looks. The chief difference between them is the treatment ofthe neckline.

Most men wear a traditional, classic men's haircut. The hair is cut over the ears and above the collarat the back. The hair at the front is combed away from the face.

A classic cut never dates but elements of it may change. Modern variations on the classic men'shaircut include different lengths and textures, depending on suitability and clients' lifestyles.

Men's styling ranges are becoming more popular and this will also influence the finished look of theclassic cut.

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Haircut guide

Preparation

Before you start your haircut:

• complete your client and hair analysis; • with your client, decide how long the cut should be; and • make sure your client is wearing a protective gown and is sittingcomfortably.

Men's classic cut

This haircut using cross-layering techniques with parallel layers. It iscompleted in three stages:

• side areas • back area • layering

Side areas

Use diagonal sections throughout the side and back areas of this cut.A diagonal sectioning pattern helps to reduce length and weight at theside and nape areas.

Take your first section from the front hairline to just in front of the ear.Keep your fingers parallel to the section and cut the hair inside yourfingers.

Clean up the side area before moving round to the back area.

Back area

Take a diagonal section from behind the ear to the nape hairline.Keep your fingers parallel to the section. This will help you cut the hairfollowing the shape of the hairline.

As you work through your sections across the back of the head,elevate each section. Keep your fingers parallel to your diagonalsectioning pattern.

Work from behind the ear across the centre of the back of the head tothe nape area on the opposite side. When you cross over the centreback you are using the cross-layering technique. Using this techniquewill make it easier for you to blend in your side areas.

Repeat the same procedure on the other side.

As you work across the back area, start to incorporate your guideline.This will allow you to cross-check your haircut and to see the shapedeveloping.

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Remember that balance is very important and you should check yourcut at every stage. Be careful to maintain your diagonal sections andkeep your fingers parallel to the sectioning pattern.

Layering

Separate the front area from the back area. At the front of the crown,take a section across from one side to the other. Holding the hair at 90degrees to the headshape and cut.

Work this sectioning pattern forwards towards the front hairline.

Blend in the back area. Take a profile line from the top of the crowndown towards thenape area. Your guideline will be at the top of thecrown. Pivot your profile line out from the centre and blend in yourguideline.

You have already cut the back area so you should run out of hair quitequickly.

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Step 1 of 14 - Sectioning pattern

Take a diagonal section from in front of the ear to the nape area.

Create a series of diagonal sections across the back of the head.

Tip:Use diagonal sections to create a convexshape that will enhance the headshape.

Step 2 of 14 - First cutting section

Take your first cutting section from the front hairline.

Use a diagonal section. This will help you follow the shape of thehead.

To get a better angle that will take your cut closer in to the head, cutthe hair between the inside of your fingers.

Always keep the hair wet at all times this will make it easier for you toobtain your angle.

Tip:By cutting the hair on the inside of yourfingers, you can create different angles andcut closer into the head.

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Step 3 of 14 - Cleaning up and balancing

Before moving round to the back area, clean up the side ear area.

Use the points of your scissors and cut against the skin.

Repeat on the other side of the head.

The way you shape your design is down to personal choice. Yourfinished look will depend on what you discussed with your clientduring the consultation stage.

Tip:Practice cutting against the skin using thepoints of your scissors. This techniquerequires a steady hand and very littlepressure.

Step 4 of 14 - Cutting behind the ear

Take a diagonal section from behind the back of the ear to the napearea. Place you fingers parallel to the section and cut.

Follow the shape of the hairline. This will create a sharp line.

Repeat on the opposite side. Cut on the skin to clean up the sectionand strengthen the shape.

Tip:Hold your body position parallel to yourcutting section.

(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 5 of 14 - Cross-layering

Working across the back area, remembering to keep the hair wet at alltimes,to create even tension on each section.

As you work across the back area your cross layering becomes moreapparant.

Following your diagonal sectioning pattern, keep your guidelinebetween your fingers and elevate each section slightly.

It is important to bringing each section down to meet the previouslyelevated section. Then elevate.

If you bring the sections down to the cutting line rather than theprevious section, you will create weight and your line will becomeheavy and bold.

Tip:Keep your elevation to a minimum or youwill lose the shape of your haircut.

(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 6 of 14 - Completed first side

Here, you can clearly see the diagonal layering our stylist has created.This is known as cross-layering.

Note how much weight and length has been taken away from thenape area.

Work the sectioning pattern across the head, from the side crown tothe opposite nape area. You will be able to use this as a cross-checkpoint when you cut to the centre from the opposite side.

Repeat the procedure on the other side until you cross over the napearea.

Tip:The client's head should be positionedslightly to one side to allow you to achievethe correct angle as you cut.

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Step 7 of 14 - Cross-checking

When you have completed both sides, you should cross-check yourhaircut so far.

Always cross-check the opposite way to which you cut the hair. Ourstylist is checking the hair horizontally.

You should need to remove only a minimal amount of hair at thispoint.

When you have cross-checked thoroughly, move on to the internallayering.

Step 8 of 14 - Layering

Starting your layering at the front area.

Take your guideline from the side area. at the front of the crown.

Holding the hair at a 90 degree angle from the head, club cut the line.

Work up towards the centre and across to the other side of the head.Remember to keep holding the hair at 90 degrees. Keeping the wet atall times.

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Step 9 of 14 - Creating length

You have now created your guideline from one side across to theother. Always remember to follow your guideline and cut the hair tothe same lenght.

Work towards the front hairline, pulling the front area hair slightlybackward to create more length at the front.

Tip:Make sure you can always see yourguideline. If you can't see it, go back to yourstarting point.

Step 10 of 14 - Back area layering

We now start to layer the back area

Using your guideline from the crown, take a central vertical sectiondown towards the bottom of the crown. Hold the hair at a 90 degreeangle to the head and, still using a club cut technique, work thesection in with the back area.

Remembering that we have already cut the some of the back area inour cross layering techinque.

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Step 11 of 14 - Blending in guidelines

Pivoting the hair out from the centre, work towards the back of the ear,blending in your guidelines as you go.

Remember that there are two guidelines to blend in:

• from the centre crown; and • from the side area.

Repeat on the opposite side of the head. And check your balanceagain.

Step 12 of 14 - Distributing the weight

Our stylist is moving their body position as they work around the head.This will help them to distribute the weight evenly throughout thehaircut.

Blend in the top and back areas, working from the crown to the backof the ear.

Remember to keep hair wet at all times.

Tip:Follow your guidelines as you blend in thehair. Don't cut the hair without a guideline;your end result will be an unbalancedhaircut. If you lose your guideline at anypoint, go back to your starting position.

(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 13 of 14 - Fringe area

Shaping the fringe area is particularly important in men's haircuts. Thewrong fringe can make or ruin your hairshape.

First, it is important to establish your client's hairline pattern at thefront. In many men, the hairline recedes to some extent frombaldness.

You should avoid making the fringe area too heavy but never take outtoo much weight either. This can make the hair look as if it is thinning.

Our stylist is aiming to keep length in the fringe area. They areblending the hair in from the temple area across to the other side,keeping it longer in the centre to create length at the front.

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Step 14 of 14 - Finished result

As you can see from our Finished result this classic men's hair shape.

This haircut can be done on most men, you will find that you canachieve different finished results by adding Gels or Wax.

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