© Hairdressing-Training.com 2004 Male haircuts - Classic cut

© Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Male haircuts - Classic cut


Introduction

• Men's haircuts tend to be short, layered looks. The chief difference between them is the treatment of the neckline.

• Most men wear a traditional, classic men's haircut. The hair is cut over the ears and above the collar at the back. The hair at the front is combed away from the face.

• A classic cut never dates but elements of it may change. Modern variations on the classic men's haircut include different lengths and textures, depending on suitability and clients' lifestyles.

• Men's styling ranges are becoming more popular and this will also influence the finished look of the classic cut.


Step 1 of 14 - Sectioning pattern

• Take a diagonal section from in front of the ear to the nape area.

• Create a series of diagonal sections across the back of the head.

Tip: Use diagonal sections to create a convex shape that will enhance the head shape.


Step 2 of 14 - First cutting section

• Take your first cutting section from the front hairline.

• Use a diagonal section. This will help you follow the shape of the head.

• To get a better angle that will take your cut closer in to the head, cut the hair between the inside of your fingers.

• Always keep the hair wet at all times this will make it easier for you to obtain your angle.

Tip: By cutting the hair on the inside of your fingers, you can create different angles and cut closer into the head.


Step 3 of 14 - Cleaning up and balancing

• Before moving round to the back area, clean up the side ear area.

• Use the points of your scissors and cut against the skin.

• Repeat on the other side of the head.

• The way you shape your design is down to personal choice. Your finished look will depend on what you discussed with your client during the consultation stage.

Tip: Practice cutting against the skin using the points of your scissors. This technique requires a steady hand and very little pressure.


Step 4 of 14 - Cutting behind the ear

• Take a diagonal section from behind the back of the ear to the nape area. Place you fingers parallel to the section and cut.

• Follow the shape of the hairline. This will create a sharp line.

• Repeat on the opposite side. Cut on the skin to clean up the section and strengthen the shape.

Tip: Hold your body position parallel to your cutting section.


Step 5 of 14 - Cross-layering• Work across the back area, remembering to keep the

hair wet at all times, to create even tension on each section. As you work across the back area your cross layering becomes more apparent.

• Following your diagonal sectioning pattern, keep your guideline between your fingers and elevate each section slightly.

• It is important to bring each section down to meet the previously elevated section. Then elevate.

• If you bring the sections down to the cutting line rather than the previous section, you will create weight and your line will become heavy and bold.

Tip: Keep your elevation to a minimum or you will lose the shape of your haircut.


Step 6 of 14 - Completed first side

• Here, you can clearly see the diagonal layering our stylist has created. This is known as cross-layering.

• Note how much weight and length has been taken away from the nape area.

• Work the sectioning pattern across the head, from the side crown to the opposite nape area. You will be able to use this as a cross-check point when you cut to the centre from the opposite side.

• Repeat the procedure on the other side until you cross over the nape area.

Tip: The client's head should be positioned slightly to one side to allow you to achieve the correct angle as you cut.


Step 7 of 14 - Cross-checking

• When you have completed both sides, you should cross-check your haircut so far.

• Always cross-check the opposite way to which you cut the hair. Our stylist is checking the hair horizontally.

• You should need to remove only a minimal amount of hair at this point.

• When you have cross-checked thoroughly, move on to the internal layering.


Step 8 of 14 - Layering

• Start your layering at the front area.

• Take your guideline from the side area, at the front of the crown.

• Holding the hair at a 90-degree angle from the head, club cut the line.

• Work up towards the centre and across to the other side of the head. Remember to keep holding the hair at 90-degrees. Keep the hair wet at all times.


Step 9 of 14 - Creating length

• You have now created your guideline from one side across to the other. Always remember to follow your guideline and cut the hair to the same length.

• Work towards the front hairline, pulling the front area hair slightly backward to create more length at the front.

Tip: Make sure you can always see your guideline. If you can't see it, go back to your starting point.


Step 10 of 14 - Back area layering

• We now start to layer the back area

• Using your guideline from the crown, take a central vertical section down towards the bottom of the crown. Hold the hair at a 90-degree angle to the head and, still using a club cut technique, work the section in with the back area.

• Remember that we have already cut the some of the back area in our cross layering technique.


Step 11 of 14 - Blending in guidelines

• Pivoting the hair out from the centre, work towards the back of the ear, blending in your guidelines as you go.

• Remember that there are two guidelines to blend in:- from the centre crown; and- from the side area.

• Repeat on the opposite side of the head. And check your balance again.


Step 12 of 14 - Distributing the weight

• Our stylist is moving their body position as they work around the head. This will help them to distribute the weight evenly throughout the haircut.

• Blend in the top and back areas, working from the crown to the back of the ear.

• Remember to keep hair wet at all times.

Tip: Follow your guidelines as you blend in the hair. Don't cut the hair without a guideline; your end result will be an unbalanced haircut. If you lose your guideline at any point, go back to your starting position.


Step 13 of 14 - Fringe area

• Shaping the fringe area is particularly important in men's haircuts. The wrong fringe can make or ruin your hair shape.

• First, it is important to establish your client's hairline pattern at the front. In many men, the hairline recedes to some extent from baldness.

• You should avoid making the fringe area too heavy but never take out too much weight either. This can make the hair look as if it is thinning.

• Our stylist is aiming to keep length in the fringe area. They are blending the hair in from the temple area across to the other side, keeping it longer in the centre to create length at the front.


Step 14 of 14 - Finished result

• As you can see from our Finished result this classic men's hair shape.

• This haircut can be done on most men. You will find that you can achieve different finished results by adding gels or wax.

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© Hairdressing-Training.com 2004 Male haircuts - Classic cut