Manicure

Student Name

Sample

Contents Page 1 Introduction

Page 3 Contra-indications

Page 9 Preparation of the Manicure Work Area

Page 17 Consultation

Page 20 Treatable Nail Conditions

Page 22 Manicure Procedure

Page 28 Buffing

Page 30 Filing the Free Edge

Page 34 Cuticle Work

Page 37 Hand and Forearm Massage

Page 44 Hand and Nail Treatments

Page 50 Nail Painting

Page 56 Aftercare and Homecare Advice

Page 59 Case Studies

Page 67 Multiple Choice Questions

Sample

1

Anatomy and physiology

Aftercare and

homecare advice

Treatment plan and

procedure

Consultation

Preparation of the work

area

Professional working

practices

Sustainable working

environment

Health and safety

Manicure Treatments

Introduction

Module Overview

This module aims to provide you with the knowledge you need to plan, prepare and perform professional manicure treatments safely and competently in a safe and sustainable working environment.

You will learn how to enhance the appearance of the hands, nails and cuticles.

This is a summary of what you will learn:

Sample

2

Throughout this module, you will learn how to:

prepare for a manicure treatment.

shape and file the nails.

remove excess cuticle.

provide specialist hand treatments to suit your client’s needs.

perform a hand and arm massage.

buff and paint the nails to give an attractive finish.

Clients have manicure treatments to improve the appearance of their hands, for relaxation and to feel pampered.

A normal manicure treatment should take 45 minutes and a luxury manicure which includes specialist treatments, up to 1 hour.

Activity

List the reasons a client may have a professional manicure

Sample

9

Preparation of the Manicure Work Area

Consider the environment where you will be performing your manicure treatment:

Temperature - this should be comfortable for both you and the client.

Adequate lighting – the area must be well lit, you may need extra lighting such as a magnifier lamp.

Ventilation is important in this service area for the following reasons:

To avoid headaches due tothe strong smell of theproducts.

To avoid sickness. To reduce vapours. To keep down micro-

organisms.

Music – relaxing background music will add to the ambiance.

When setting up your working area, ensure all your materials, equipment, tools and products are in easy reach.

Activity

List some working areas where a manicure could take place?

Sample

10

Activity

Complete the table explaining the effects of incorrect use of manicure tools on the nail plate and skin.

Equipment Purpose for Use Incorrect use of Manicure Tools

Emery Board Has 2 sides, the coarse side is used for reducing length and the fine side is used for shaping.

Orange Stick Should be tipped at the end with cotton wool. Used to apply products, clean under the free edge, ease back cuticles and remove nail varnish.

Note When preparing your trolley place your products in the order that they will be used, this will help you to remember your treatment routine and ensure that you reflect a professional, tidy and organised image.

Sample

11

Nail Scissors Used to shorten nail length.

Cuticle Knife Used to remove excess cuticle stuck to the nail plate.

Cuticle Nippers Used to remove dead skin and hangnails from the cuticle area.

Manicure Bowl Add warm water and a soaking solution to soften the cuticles and wash off products.

Sample

12

Hoof Stick Used for gently pushing back the cuticles.

Nail Buffer Use in conjunction with buffing paste to increase circulation, smooth out ridges and add sheen.

Used to provide a buff finish in male manicures or when the client does not require enamel.

2, 3 and 4 Way Buffers

Different graded surfaces allow this product to be multi- functional.

The coarse surface is designed to smooth out any ridges, pitting, flaky edges and remove any staining on the nail.

The smoother sides are designed to give different degrees of shine from a satin to a gloss finish.

Sample

13

Health and Safety

The best method for sterilising metal tools is an autoclave, once the tools have been sterilised they should be stored in an ultra violet cabinet or placed in a sealed container. Clean towels should be used for each client that have been laundered at a high temperature of 60˚c.

Activity

Complete the table explaining the reasons why each product is used within a manicure treatment.

Product Product Use Main Ingredients

Surgical Spirit Alcohol often Ethanol

Sanitiser Mild Ethanol Sample

14

Hand Soak Water

Chamomile extract

Varnish Remover Acetone

Glycerol

Perfume

Cuticle Cream Mineral Oils

Beeswax

Lanolin

Cuticle Remover Sodium Hydroxide or Potassium Hydroxide (caustic potash)

N.B. Always rinse off this product as these ingredients are alkaline and can irritate the skin.

Sample

15

Hand Cream Emollients

Glycerol

Lanolin

Colour and Perfume

Buffing Paste Ground Pumice

Kaolin

Silica

Base Coat Nitrocellulose,

Varnish Colour Pigments

Bismuth Oxychloride (for the shimmer)

Plasticiser for the flexibility

Sample

16

Top Coat Plasticiser e.g. Dibutyl phthalate

Ultraviolet Stabilisers E.g. Benzophenone-1

Solvent Ethyl acetate

Acetone

Quick Dry Solvents e.g. Ethyl Acetate, Butyl acetate

Quick Drying Silicones

Sample

20

Treatable Nail Conditions

Activity

State the salon treatment you would apply and the homecare advice you would give to your client with the following skin and nail conditions?

Condition Description Salon Treatment &Homecare Advice

Hangnail A small tear in the cuticle or the epidermis surrounding the nail plate.

Dry, Split Flaking Nails - Onychorrhexis

The layers of the nail plate separate at the free edge.

Longitudinal Ridges

These ridges in the nail plate run from the cuticle to the free edge. They can affect all nails or just one.

They may increase and become deeper as we age.

Sample

21

Habit Tic Horizontal ridges on the nail plate caused by a nervous habit of the client picking at the surface of the nail plate.

Eggshell Nails The nail plate is very fragile, soft, thin and pale in colour. This usually occurs due to illness.

Blue Nail The nail bed appears blue. This is due to poor circulation and is found on clients that suffer with heart disease.

Overgrown Cuticles. (Pterygium)

This is caused by neglect and can be quite severe.

It is a forward growth of the cuticle which tightly adheres to the nail plate.

N.B. If severe visit the GP.

Sample

22

Manicure Procedure

1. Carry out the consultation and check for contra-indications.

2. Wash your hands with soap and dry thoroughly to minimise therisk of cross infection, do this in front of the client.

3. Remove all jewellery from your client’s hands. (Your client maywish to keep on a wedding band).

4. Wipe both the client’s handswith a sanitiser. Analyse thecondition of the nails, cuticlesand skin and re-check for anycontra-indications.

5. Remove nail varnish from bothhands; use a new piece of cottonwool for each hand.

6. Working on the client’s lefthand using the fine side of theemery board, file the nails fromthe edge to the centre in onedirection only. Bevel the nails ifthey are split.

Sample

23

7. Buff each nail from cuticle tofree edge 6 times to seal thefree edge.

8. Apply cuticle massage creamwith a dressed orange stick,massage well into the cuticles.

9. Soak the nails in a bowl of warmwater which contains hand soak.

10. Repeat stages 6 - 9 on the right hand.

11. Remove the left hand from the water and dry.

12. Apply cuticle remover with adressed orange stick, workaround the cuticle area usinggentle circular movements topush back the cuticle.

Sample

24

13.Work on the cuticle area withthe cuticle knife, taking carenot to scratch the nail plate.

14. Using cuticle nippers removeany hangnails, excesseponychium or overgrowncuticle, taking care not to pullthe skin.

15. Remove the right hand from the water and dry with a towel.

16. Return the left hand to thewater. The cuticle removershould be washed off as itcan irritate the skin and maycause it to dry and crack.

17. Repeat stages 12 - 16 on the right hand.

18. On the left hand, using thesmooth side of the emeryboard apply 1-2 strokesunderneath the free edge toremove the frill which may haveoccurred from the previousfiling.

Sample

25

19. Repeat on the right hand.

20. Apply hand cream to the left hand and perform the handmassage.

Effleurage – 6 times.

Thumb knead to the forearm – 6 times.

Thumb knead the wrist, back of hand and fingers – 3 times.

Frictions across the back of the hand – 3 times.

TURN THE HAND OVER.

Effleurage fingers to elbow – 6 times.

Thumb knead elbow to the palms – 3 times.

TURN THE HAND OVER.

Rotate each finger and thumb holding the wrist for support - 3 times each way.

Wrist rotation clasp the hands, support the wrist and rotate - 3 times each way.

Effleurage – 6 times.

21. Repeat the massage on the right hand.

22. Wipe the nails on both hands toremove any excess grease usingnail varnish remover.

Sample

26

23. To remove dirt or hand creamfrom under the nail use adressed orange stick (pointedend) and carefully roll underthe free edge.

24. Apply a small amount of buffingcream to each nail using adressed orange stick. Buff thenails using a buffer, workingfrom the cuticle to the freeedge.

25. Apply a base coat using a maximum of 3 strokes.

26. Apply nail varnish 3 coats ifusing pearlised varnish and 2coats if using cream varnish.

27. A top coat should be used ifcream polish has been applied.

Sample

27

28. Remove any varnish from around the cuticle and free edge with adressed orange stick or a cotton bud soaked in nail varnishremover.

29. Give aftercare and homecare advice and offer a retail item.

30. Update the client’s record card.

31. Wash your hands to minimise the risk of cross infection.

Activity

Why is it important to rinse off cuticle remover?

Additional Notes

Sample

37

Hand and Forearm Massage

Massage of the hand and forearm is the section of the manicure that clients usually look forward to the most.

Activity

List the reasons why a hand and arm massage is incorporated into the manicure treatment:

Sample

38

Massage Mediums

Hand Cream is an emollient and is nourishing to the skin. Creams suit most skin types particularly a dry/dehydrated skin as the product takes longer to absorb.

Hand Lotion is lighter than a cream as it contains a high percentage of water so does not provide as much slip. It is absorbed more quickly by the skin and will leave no residue. Lotion is suitable for a normal skin.

Massage Oil gives a good slip so is ideal for clients with hairy arms. A vegetable oil such as almond oil may be used or a pre-blended aromatherapy oil. Oils are slow to be absorbed and require the residue to be removed.

Health and Safety

Always check that your client does not have a nut allergy before using almond oil. Grapeseed oil can be used as a substitute.

Massage Manipulations

There are four types of manipulations used during the hand and arm massage routine, all of which have different effects on the tissues.

The routine takes approximately 5 minutes each arm and is completed prior to nail painting.

The nails will need cleaning of excess product in preparation for the required finish, this is called squeaking.

The following table highlights the different types of manipulations used within a hand and forearm massage.

Sample

39

Manipulation Movement Description and Use

Effleurage To distribute the product on to the hand and arm and used as a link movement. Always used at the beginning and the end of the massage routine. Always performed in an upward direction or towards the heart following the return of the blood and lymphatic circulations. Soothing and relaxing, performed in a slow rhythmical manner using the palm of the hand, allowing the fingers to mould to the area being massaged.

Petrissage A circular kneading movement with a slight pressure given on the upward stage of the movement to follow the flow of the blood and lymph circulations. The pads of the thumbs are used to press the tissues against the underlying bone. The depth of pressure should be adapted to suit the client. Relaxing, soothing and breaks down tension within the muscles.

Frictions Performed with the fingers or thumbs transversely (going from side to side) Used mainly over joints to improve their mobility and prevent stiffness. Helps to reduce tension.

Rotations Circular movements to the joints to improve mobility. The therapist gently rotates the client’s fingers and wrists in a clockwise and anti-clockwise direction.

Sample

40

Hand and Forearm Massage Routine

1. Effleurage – Stroking from thefingers to the elbow using alternatehands – 6 times.

2. Petrissage - Thumb kneading tothe forearm using both thumbs – 6times.

3. Petrissage - Thumb kneading tothe wrist, back of the hand andfingers – 3 times.

4. Frictions - Thumb frictions to theback of the hand – 3 times.

Sample

41

5. Turn the hand over.

6. Effleurage – Stroking from thefingers to elbow - 6 times.

7. Petrissage - Thumb kneading from the elbow to palm - 3 times.

8. Turn the hand over.

Sample

42

9. Rotations – Rotate each finger andthumb holding the wrist forsupport - 3 times each way.

10. Rotations – Clasp the hand,support the wrist and rotate - 3times each way.

11. Effleurage – Stroking from thefingers to the elbow - 6 times.

Tip

1. Massage movements should be rhythmical and flowing. One handshould always remain in contact with the client, this will ensureyour massage is uninterrupted and relaxing.

2. The speed and pressure of the massage movements should beadapted to suit the needs of the client.

Relaxing Massage – Movements should be performed in a slow and nurturing manner. Stimulating Massage – Movements should be performed in a brisk manner.

Sample

43

Contra-indications to Massage

Always check that it is safe for your client to have the massage treatment. The following could restrict or contra-indicate the hand and arm massage, if you are unsure refer the client to their G.P.

Recent scar tissue (less than 6 months) – the skin is still healing.

Recent operations on the treatment area.

Delicate, thin skin – the skin could tear.

Excessively hairy areas – could be uncomfortable if the hairs arepulled.

Eczema – the massage medium could aggravate the condition.

Psoriasis – the massage medium could aggravate the condition.

Diabetes – G.P. permission required if sensation is limited.

Sunburn – this will be uncomfortable for the client; the skinneeds time to heal.

Cancer – G.P. permission is required.

Acute rheumatism or arthritis – the massage may be painful forthe client.

Hormonal implants – do not apply massage movements over theimplant.

Unidentified lumps, swellings, inflammation or trapped nerve - donot massage over.

Tip

A hand massage can be offered to the client during a facial treatment once the mask has been applied. This will help to promote a manicure treatment.

Sample

44

Hand and Nail Treatments

You will find many specialist hand and nail treatments on the market today that can be incorporated into a basic manicure, turning it into a luxury spa treatment.

These specialist treatments have their own unique benefits and uses. They provide the therapist with the opportunity to offer the client a treatment specifically designed to cater for their individual needs.

The most popular of these specialist treatments are:

Exfoliation

Warm Oil

Hand Masks

Thermal Mitts

Paraffin Wax

Exfoliation Treatment

A cream that contains abrasive ingredients is massaged over the skin to remove dead skin cells (desquamate). The massage can be concentrated on areas of particular dryness.

The exfoliating treatment is carried out after the cuticle work.

The skin should be dampened slightly before applying the product. Petrissage movements are used to massage the product over the skin, concentrating on any dry areas. Sponges, hot damp towels or mitts are then used to remove the product thoroughly.

Sample

45

Activity

List the benefits of an exfoliation treatment:

Warm Oil Treatment

A vegetable oil is gently warmed in a bain-marie and the nails are soaked for 5 - 10 minutes.

After filing the nails, soak them in the warm oil, it is not necessary to apply cuticle massage cream although, some therapists prefer to. Remove after 5-10 minutes and continue with the cuticle work. Remove the excess oil using tissues or hot towels or use the residue to perform the hand and forearm massage.

Activity

List the benefits of a warm oil treatment:

Sample

46

Note

Always check that your client does not have a nut allergy when using almond oil. Grapeseed oil can be used as an alternative.

Hand Mask Treatment

Treatment masks can have different effects on the hands depending on their ingredients.

The mask treatment is carried out after exfoliation. Apply the mask to the hands and nails with a mask brush. Cover the hands with a plastic protective covering and then either wrap in towels or place in thermal mitts. After 10 – 15 minutes remove the mask with hot towels and continue with the massage treatment.

Activity

List the benefits of a hand mask treatment:

Sample

47

Thermal Mitts

Thermal mitts are designed to add warmth to the hands and aid the penetration of products that have been applied to the skin.

Thermal mitts need to be warmed before use.

After the exfoliation treatment, apply a hand mask or a nourishing treatment cream with a mask brush and cover the hands with a plastic protective covering. Place the hands in the mitts for 10 – 15 minutes, checking the temperature with the client during use.

Once you have removed the mitts and the plastic covering, continue with the massage treatment using the cream that remains on the hands, apply more cream if needed.

Activity

List the benefits of using thermal mitts within your manicure treatment:

Sample

48

Paraffin Wax Treatment

Paraffin wax is a solid wax. Wax heaters heat the wax to the working temperature. (It is not advisable to heat the wax in any other way as it contains ingredients which are flammable).

Prepare the working area with a foil or a plastic covering and 2 layers of paper roll. After the hand and arm massage, evenly apply the paraffin wax with a mask brush to both sides of the hand. The layers can be built up until the desired thickness has been achieved.

Encase the hand in a plastic or foil wrapping and then wrap both hands in towels to help retain the heat. Leave for 15 minutes. To remove the wax, peel off and dispose of appropriately.

Health and Safety Always test the temperature of the wax on yourself and the client before applying.

Activity

List the benefits of a Paraffin wax treatment:

Sample

49

Note

The paraffin wax heater should be switched on at least 30 minutes before the wax is required to allow the wax to melt. The temperature of the heater should be set at 50 – 55˚C.

Additional Notes

Sample

50

Nail Painting

Before you paint the nails, they need to be grease free - this is known as squeaking and is achieved by wiping over the nail plate with a cotton pad soaked with varnish remover. Wipe under the free edge (if long enough) with a tipped orange stick also, soaked with varnish remover. If you do not squeak the nail plate the varnish will:

not go on evenly.

will not adhere to the nail plate properly.

will not last as long.

Base Coat, Varnish Colour and Top Coat Application

The application of the base coat, varnish colour and top coat are the same. You should apply the varnish using no more than four brush strokes, applying no more than four coats in total.

The first stroke is applied down the middle of the nail plate.

The second is applied sweeping around one side and towards the free edge.

The third sweeps around the opposite side towards the free edge.

Sample

51

If required, apply a fourth stroke down the centre of the nail plate from the cuticle towards the free edge.

A small gap of 1mm should be left clear of varnish around the cuticle and the nail walls.

Varnish Sequence

Base coat - apply one coat.

Coloured cream enamel – apply two coats of enamel however, if the colour is pale a third coat may be necessary. Coloured pearl enamel – apply three coats of enamel; a top coat is not required. French – apply white varnish to cover the free edge then a pale/pink varnish to cover the entire nail plate.

Top coat – apply over cream enamel and french to give a high gloss shine.

Note There are 13 principal nail varnish finishes:

▪ Shimmer ▪ Micro-shimmer

▪ Micro-glitter ▪ Glitter

▪ Frost ▪ Lustre

▪ Cream ▪ Prismatic micro-glitter or shimmer

▪ Iridescent ▪ Opalescent

▪ Matte ▪ Duo-chrome

▪ Jelly or translucent

Sample

52

Activity

Answer the following questions.

1. What are the reasons for using a base coat?

2. What are the reasons for using a top coat?

3. List the reasons why a client’s nails might become stained?

4. List the reasons for peeling or chipping varnish?

Sample

53

Health and Safety

For people who have an allergy to nail varnish, it is important to conduct a sensitivity test 24 hrs prior to the manicure. Apply a coat of varnish to the little finger nail and look for any signs of redness, swelling, inflammation or irritation that may appear on the surrounding area or the face.

Tip

Varnish Colour Choice.

Light colours – use on clients with small hands.

Bright colours – for clients that want to draw attention to theirhands.

Dark colours – can make the nail plate appear smaller, use onclients that have darker skin tones.

Pearlised colours – reflects light and makes smaller nails appearlarger; however, it will enhance the appearance of ridges andflaws on the nail plate.

Sample

54

The following chart highlights the different styles of varnishing and explains how they would be applied.

Varnish Style Description

Traditional The whole of the nail plate is covered with coloured varnish.

A base coat is applied.

Two coats of cream polish are applied followed by a top coat or three coats of pearlised varnish and no top coat.

French This style can make a nail appear longer.

A base coat is applied.

A white tip is applied to the free edge in the shape of a chevron or rounded.

A sheer pink, natural or peach is applied over the entire nail.

A top coat is applied.

Half-moon Coloured varnish is applied over all the nail plate except for the lunula.

A base coat is applied.

Two coats of cream polish are applied followed by a top coat or three coats of pearlised varnish and no top coat.

Sample

55

Removing Gel Polish and Nail Art

Your client may have a gel polish or a nail art finish on their nails that requires removing prior to the manicure service.

Removal Method

1. Roughen the gel surface with a white block or the fine side of anemery board.

2. Protect the skin around each nail with a thin layer of petroleumjelly.

3. Soak squares of gauze in gel polish remover or acetone.

4. Secure the gauze on to the nail plate by wrapping squares ofaluminium foil around the fingertip.

5. Repeat on all the finger nails.

6. Allow the nails to soak for 20 - 30 minutes.

7. Remove the first foil and gently wipe away the polish. An orangestick can also be used to gently scrape away any polish or nail art.

8. Repeat on the remaining finger nails.

9. Buff the surface of each nail to remove any remaining gelpolish/nail art from the nails using a white block.

10.Use a 3/4-way buffer to seal the surface of the nail.

Additional Notes

Sample