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lisboa city
TURISMO DE LISBOARua do Arsenal, nº151100-038 LisboaT: (+351) 21 031 27 00F: (+351) 21 031 28 99E: [email protected] W: www.visitlisboa.com
MY OWNLISBOA
INTERVIEW
MAFALDA ARNAUTHTHE VOICE OF FADO
WALKS
IN THE SHADOWOF LISBOA’S
SUNDIALS
DESIGN
EXPERIMENTADESIGNBIENNIAL RETURNSTO LISBOA
A R T T H E A T R E D A N C E M U S I C N I G H T A R T T H E A T R E D A N C E M U S I C N I G H T
lisboa city
50_51
HOTELAPARTMENTS
APARTHOTEL VIP EDENPç. dos Restauradores, 241250-187 LISBOAT: +351 213 216 600F: +351 213 216 666E: [email protected]: www.viphotes.com
HOTEL PESTANA CASCAISAv. Manuel Júlio Carvalho e Costa,1152754-518 CASCAIST: +351 214 825 900F: +351 214 825 977E: [email protected]: www.pestana.com
REAL RESIDÊNCIAR. Ramalho Ortigão, 411070-228 LISBOAT: +351 213 822 900F: +351 213 822 930E: [email protected]: www.hoteisreal.com
SOLPLAY HOTEL DEAPARTAMENTOSR. Manuel da Silva Gago, 22795-132 LINDA-A-VELHAT: +351 210 066 000F: +351 210 066 199E: [email protected]: www.solplay.pt/hotel
TOURISTVILLAGES
VILA BICUDAVila Bicuda - EscritórioR. dos Faisões2750-689 CASCAIST: +351 214 860 200F: +351 214 860 229E: [email protected]: www.vilabicuda.com
TURISMO DEHABITAÇÃO(MANORHOUSES) ANDTURISMO NOESPAÇO RURAL(RUSTICHOUSES)
CASA DA QUINTA NOVA DACONCEIÇÃOR. Cidade de Rabat, 51500-158 LISBOAT: +351 217 780 091F: +351 217 724 765E: [email protected]
QUINTA DE SANTO ANTÓNIO DEBOLONHAAv. Dom Eduardo Veiga de Araújo,Apartado 432625-055 PÓVOA DE SANTA IRIAT: +351 219 597 996F: +351 219 530 376E: [email protected]: www.portugalinsite.pt
BED ANDBREAKFASTSALBERGARIA CHILLER. António Pedro, 401000-039 LISBOAT: +351 213 549 171F: +351 213 530 637E: [email protected]: www.albergariadochille.comALBERGARIA RESIDENCIALINSULANAR. da Assunção, 521100-044 LISBOAT: +351 213 427 625F: +351 213 428 924E: [email protected]: www.insulanacjb.net
ALBERGARIA S. LOURENÇOEst. Nacional 10/10-5 Porto Alto2135-115 SAMORA CORREIAT: +351 263 654 447F: +351 263 654 694E: [email protected]: www.hotelslourenco.com
HOSPEDARIA JARDIM DAAMADORALg. Major Humberto da Cruz, 32700-545 AMADORAT: +351 214 943 109F: +351 214 947 907E: [email protected]: www.jardimdaamadora.com
PENSÃO CASAL RIBEIROR. Braancamp, 10 R/C Dto1250-050 LISBOAT: +351 213 860 067
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL CANADÁAv. Defensores de Chaves,351000-111 LISBOAT: +351 213 513 480F: +351 213 542 922E: [email protected]: www.residencial-canada.com
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL CARAVELAR. Ferreira Lapa, 381150-159 LISBOAT: +351 213 539 011F: +351 213 571 751E: [email protected]: http://caravela.do.sapo.pt
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL ESTORILLISBOAAv. João XXI, 6 - 2º1000-301 LISBOAT: +351 218 485 636F: +351 218 451 066E: [email protected]
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL GERÊSCç. do Garcia,6 - 1º e 2º1150-168 LISBOAT: +351 218 810 497F: +351 218 882 006E: [email protected]: www.pensaogeres.com
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL PORTUENSER. DAS Portas de Santo Antão, 149-1571150-267 LISBOAT: +351 213 464 197F: +351 424 239E: [email protected]: www.pensaoportuense.com
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL PRINCESAR. Gomes Freire, 1301150-180 LISBOAT: +351 213 193 070F: +351 213 193 079E: [email protected]: www.residencial-princesa.pt
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL TERMINUSAv. Almirante Gago Coutinho, 1531700-029 LISBOAT: +351 218 491 106F: +351 218 491 107
RESIDÊNCIA AVENIDA PARKAv. Sidónio Pais,61050-214 LISBOAT: +351 213 532 181F: +351 213 532 185E: [email protected]: www.avenidapark.com
RESIDÊNCIA MAR DOS AÇORESAv. Bernardim Ribeiro, 141150-071 LISBOAT: +351 213 577 085F: +351 213 530 638E: [email protected] AMERICANOR. 1º de Dezembro, 731200-358 LISBOAT: +351 213 474 976F: +351 213 479 979E: [email protected]: www.hotelamericano.comRESIDENCIAL ASTÓRIAR. Braamcamp, 101250-050 LISBOAT: +351 213 861 317F: +351 213 860 491E: [email protected]: www.evidenciahoteis.com
RESIDENCIAL BORGESR. Garrett, 1081200-205 LISBOAT: +351 213 461 951F: +351 213 426 617T: [email protected]: www.hotelborges.com
RESIDENCIAL DELTAR. Ilha do Pico, 31000-169 LISBOAT: +351 213 521 300F: +351 213 557 891E: [email protected]: www.maisturismo.pt/delta
RESIDENCIAL DOM JOÃOR. José Estevão, 431150-200 LISBOAT: +351 213 144 171F: +351 213 524 569
RESIDENCIAL DOM SANCHO IAv. da Liberdade, 2021250-147 LISBOAT: +351 213 513 160F: +351 213 548 042E: [email protected]: www.domsancho.com
RESIDENCIAL DUAS NAÇÕESR. da Vitória, 411100-618 LISBOAT: +351 213 460 710F: +351 213 470 206E: [email protected]: www.duasnacoes.com
RESIDENCIAL HORIZONTEAv. António Augusto Aguiar, 421050-017 LISBOAT: +351 213 539 526F: +351 213 538 474E: [email protected]: www.hotelhorizonte.com
RESIDENCIAL ITÁLIAAv. Visconde de Valmor, 671050-239 LISBOAT: +351 217 611 490F: +351 217 611 499E: [email protected]: www.residencial-italia.com
RESIDENCIAL JOÃO XXIR. Gomes Freire, 1791150-177 LISBOAT: +351 213 155 018F: +351 213 533 580E: [email protected]: www.residencialjoaoxxi.com
RESIDENCIAL LAR DO AREEIROPç. Francisco Sá Carneiro, 41000-159 LISBOAT: +351 218 493 150F: +351 218 406 321E: [email protected]: www.residencialardoareeiro.com
RESIDENCIAL LUENAR. Pascoal de Melo,91000-230 LISBOAT: +351 213 558 246F: +351 213 543 456E: [email protected]: www.pensaoresidencialluena.pt
SOLAR DOS MOUROSR. Milagre de Santo António, 61100-351 LISBOAT: +351 218 854 940F: +351 218 854 945E: [email protected]: www.solardosmouros.pt
9INDEX
16
5ESPLANADESWith its mild climate the whole
year round, Lisboa’s esplanades
are an open window onto the
city.
INTERVIEWMafalda Arnauth was “captured”
by Fado and, in just a few years,
her extraordinary voice and the
poetry she writes have made a
decisive contribution to the
new wave that is sweeping the
so called Portuguese national
song.
THE LUSITANOHORSEEvery week, a display of horses
in Haute École (classical
dressage) takes place in the
grandiose setting of the Queluz
Palace and Gardens.
ACCOMMODATION
MY OWN LISBOAThe magazine-guide for visitors to LisboaNº 1
OWNED BYTurismo de LisboaRua do Arsenal, 15 - 1100-038 LisboaT: +351 210 312 700; F: +351 210 312 899E: [email protected]
DIRECTORPaula Oliveira
EDITOR
Edifício Lisboa Oriente, Av. Infante D. Henrique,333H, Esc. 49 - 1800-282 LisboaT: +351 21 850 81 10; F: +351 21 853 04 26E: [email protected]
DESIGN AND ARTWORKEuro RSCG Design & Arquitectura
PRINTINGSogapal
100.000 copiesportuguese, spanish, english, french, german,italian - Registration nº 231744/05
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2428EXPERIMENTA
DESIGNThe fourth edition of
Experimentadesign takes place
from the 14th September to the
10th October in Lisboa. SUNDIALSLisboa also has sundials in
public places. We would like to
challenge all those visiting the
city to discover them. They are
usually very beautiful pieces,
which often go unnoticed.
FÁBRICA DOS PASTÉIS DE BELÉM
THE TILE MUSEUM, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD
COLOUR, MUSIC AND CEREMONY AT THE CHANGING OF THE
GUARD OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC
MARCHAS POPULARES, ONE OF THE BIGGEST EUROPEAN
FESTIVALS
FROM SARDINES… TO CHESTNUTS
MODA LISBOA, A WORLD AT THE REACH OF A CLICK
NEW HOTEL IN CHIADO
A DIFFERENT WAY OF GETTING TO KNOW LISBOA,
ON-BOARD A SIDE-CAR
COMPANHIA NACIONAL DE BAILADO
MY LISBOA,
by Nuno Delgado, Helder Moutinho and João Lagos
3* HOTELSBEST WESTERN HOTEL DE TURISMOLg. de Santo António2200-348 ABRANTEST: +351 241 361 261F: +351 241 365 218E: [email protected]: www.hotelabrantes.pt
BEST WESTERN HOTEL FLAMINGOR. Castilho,411250-068 LISBOAT: +351 213 841 200F: +351 213 841 208E: [email protected]: www.bestwestern.com/pt/hotelflamingo
BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTELEDUARDO VIIAv. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 51069-114 LISBOAT: +351 213 568 822F: +351 213 568 844E: [email protected]: www.hoteleduardovii.pt
COMFORT HOTEL PRÍNCIPEAv. Duque de Ávila, 2011050-082 LISBOAT: +351 213 536 151F: +351 213 534 314E: [email protected]: www.hotelprincipelisboa.com
HOTEL A.S. LISBOAAv. Almirante Reis, 1881000-055 LISBOAT: +351 218 429 360F: +351 218 429 374E: [email protected]: www.hotel-aslisboa.com
HOTEL AL FOZAv. Dom Manuel I2890-014 ALCOCHETET: +351 212 341 179F: +351 212 341 190E: [email protected]: www.al-foz.pt
HOTEL ALMIRANTEAv. Almirante Reis, 681150-020 LISBOAT: +351 218 168 000F:+351 218 168 001E: [email protected]: www.hotelalmirante.pt
HOTEL ARRIBASAv. Alfredo Coelho - Praia Grande2705-329 COLAREST: +351 219 289 050F: +351 219 292 420E: [email protected]: www.hotelarribas.com
HOTEL BAÍAAv. Marginal2754-509 CASCAIST: +351 214 831 033F: +351 214 831 095E: [email protected]: www.hotelbaia.com
HOTEL BOTÂNICOR. da Mãe D'Água,16/201250-156 LISBOAT: +351 213 420 392F: +351 213 420 125E: [email protected]: www.hotelbotanico.net
HOTEL CRISTALR. de Leiria, 112/114 - Embra2430-091 MARINHA GRANDET: +351 244 574 530F: +351 244 574531E: [email protected]: www.hoteiscristal.pt
HOTEL DA TORRER. dos Jerónimos, 81400-211 LISBOAT: +351 213 619 940F: +351 213 619 946E: [email protected]: www.maisturismo.pt/torre.htm
HOTEL DOM CARLOS LIBERTYR. Alexandre Herculano, 131150-005 LISBOAT: +351 213 173 570F: +351 213 530 272E: [email protected]: www.domcarloshoteis.com
HOTEL DOM CARLOS PARKAv. Duque de Loulé,1211050-089 LISBOAT: +351 213 512 590F: +351 213 520 728E: [email protected]: www.domcarloshoteis.com
HOTEL EXCELSIORR. Rodrigues Samapio, 1721150-282 LISBOAT: +351 213 537 151F: +351 213 578 779E: [email protected]: www.hotel-excelsior.pt
HOTEL EXPRESS BY HOLIDAY INNLISBON-OEIRASEst. de Paço de Arcos à Pç. SérgioVieira de Melo2740-243 PORTO SALVOT: +351 214 232 040F: +351 214 232 041E: [email protected]: www.hiexpress-lisbonoeiras.com
HOTEL ISIDROR. Prof. Augusto Gomes,32910-123 SETÚBALT: +351 265 535 099F: +351 265 535 118E: [email protected]: www.maisturismo.pt/hisidro
HOTEL JORGE VR. Mouzinho da Silveira, 31250-165 LISBOAT: +351 213 562 525F: +351 213 150 319E: [email protected]: www.hoteljorgev.com
HOTEL LISBOA TEJOR. dos Condes de Monsanto, 21100-159 LISBOAT: +351 218 866 182F: +351 218 865 163E: [email protected]: www.hotellisboatejo.com
HOTEL LONDRESAv. Fausto de Figueiredo, 172765-412 ESTORILT: +351 214 648 300F: +351 214 672 633E: [email protected]: www.hotelondres.com
HOTEL MARÉR. Mouzinho de Albuquerque, 102450-901 NAZARÉT: +351 262 561 122F: +351 262 561 750E: [email protected]: www.marehotel.com
HOTEL MÉTROPOLEPç. Dom Pedro IV, 301100-200 LISBOAT: +351 213 219 030F: +351 213 469 166E: [email protected]: www.almeidahotels.com
HOTEL MIRAPARQUEAv. Sidónio Pais, 121050-214 LISBOAT: +351 213 524 286F: +351 213 578 920E: [email protected]: www.miraparque.com
HOTEL NACIONALR. Castilho, 341250-070 LISBOAT: +351 213 554 433F: +351 213 561 122E: [email protected]: www.hotel-nacional.com
HOTEL NOVOTEL LISBOAAv. José Malhoa, Lt. 16421099-051 LISBOAT: +351 217 244 800F: +351 217 244 801E: [email protected]: www.accorhotels.com
HOTEL OLISSIPPO MARQUÊS DE SÁAv. Miguel Bombarda, 1301050-167 LISBOAT: +351 217 911 014F: +351 217 936 983E: [email protected]: www.olissippohotels.com
HOTEL ROMAAv. de Roma,331749-074 LISBOAT: +351 217 932 244F: +351 217 932 981E: [email protected]: www.hotelroma.pt
HOTEL TRAVEL PARK LISBOAAv. Almirante Reis, 641150-020 LISBOAT: +351 218 102 100F: +351 218 102 199E: [email protected]: www.hoteltravelpark.com
HOTEL VIP BERNAAv. António Serpa, 131169-199 LISBOAT: +351 217 814 300F: +351 217 936 278E: [email protected]: www.viphotels.com/vip-berna.htm
HOTEL VIP ZURIQUER. Ivone Silva, 181050-124 LISBOAT: +351 217 814 000F: +351 217 937 290E: [email protected]: www.viphotels.com/vip-zurique.htm
SANA CAPITOL HOTELR. Eça de Queirós, 241050-096 LISBOAT: +351 213 536 811F: +351 213 526 165E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA ESTORIL HOTELAv. Marginal,70342765-247 ESTORILT: +351 214 670 322F: +351 214 671 171E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA EXECUTIVE HOTELAv. Conde de Valbom, 561050-069 LISBOAT: +351 217 951 157F: +351 217 951 166E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA RENO HOTELAv. Duque de Ávila, 195/1971050-082 LISBOAT: +351 213 135 000F: +351 213 135 001E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA REX HOTELR. Castilho, 1691070-051 LISBOAT: +351 213 882 161F: +351 213 887 581E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
2* HOTELSHOTEL IBIS LISBOA - SALDANHAAv. Casal Ribeiro, 231000-090 LISBOAT: +351 213 191 690F: +351 213 191 699E: [email protected]: www.accorhotels.com
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - JOSÉ MALHOAAv. José Malhoa,lt. H1070-158 LISBOAT: +351 217 235 700F: +351 217 235 701E: [email protected]: www.accorhotels.com
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - OEIRASÁrea de Serviço da Auto-Estrada A5- Km 9,62780-826 OEIRAST: +351 214 216 215F: +351 214 217 039E: [email protected]: www.ibishotel.com
HOTEL D. AFONSO HENRIQUESR. Cristovão Falcão,81900-172 LISBOAT: +351 218 146 574F: +351 218 123 375E: [email protected]
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA LIBERDADER. Barata Salgueiro, 531250-043 LISBOAT: +351 213 300 630F: +351 213 300 631E: [email protected]: www.accorhotels.com
HOTEL VIPR. Fernão Lopes, 251000-132 LISBOAT: +351 213 568 600F: +351 213 158 773E: [email protected]: www.viphotels.com
HOTEL VIP PRAIA DO SOLR. dos Pescadores, 122825-386 COSTA DA CAPARICAT: +351 212 900 012F: +351 212 902 541E: [email protected]: www.viphotels.com
HOTEL VIP MIRAMONTEAv. do Atlântico, 1552705-287 SINTRAT: +351 219 288 200F: +351 219 291 480E: [email protected]: www.viphotels.com
HOTEL INTERNACIONALR. da Bestesga, 31100-090 LISBOAT: +351 213 240 990F: +351 213 240 999E: [email protected]: www.hotel-internacional.com
HOTEL SUIÇO ATLÂNTICOR. da Glória, 31250-114 LISBOAT: +351 213 461 713F: +351 213 469 013E: hotelsuiç[email protected]: www.grupofbarata.com
POUSADAS,INNS ANDOTHER HOTELSAS JANELAS VERDESR. das Janelas Verdes, 471200-690 LISBOAT: +351 213 968 143F: +351 213 968 144E: [email protected]: www.heritage.pt
ESTALAGEM DO FAROL - DESIGNHOTELAv. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 72750-465 CASCAIST: +351 214 823 490F: +351 214 841 447E: [email protected]: www.cascais.org
ESTALAGEM DO SADOR. Irene Lisboa, 1/32900-023 SETÚBALT: +351 265 542 800F: +351 265 542 828E: [email protected]: www.estalagemdosado.com
ESTALAGEM SENHORA DA GUIAEst. do Guincho2750-642 CASCAIST: +351 214 869 239F: +351 214 869 227E: [email protected]: www.senhoradaguia.com
ESTALAGEM VALE MANSOMartinchel2200-648 ABRANTEST: +351 241 840 000F: +351 241 840 009E: [email protected]: www.estalagemvalemanso.com
PALÁCIO BELMONTEPáteo Dom Fradique, 141100-624 LISBOAT: +351 218 816 600F: +351 218 816 609E: [email protected]: www.palaciobelmonte.com
POUSADA DA BATALHA - MESTREAFONSO DOMINGUESPousada da Batalha - Mestre AfonsoDomingues2440-102 BATALHAT: +351 244 765 260F: +351 244 765 260E: [email protected]: www.pousadas.pt
POUSADA DE ÓBIDOS - CASTELOPousada de Óbidos - Castelo2510-999 ÓBIDOST: +351 262 955 080F: +351 262 959 148E: [email protected]: www.pousadas.pt
POUSADA DE OURÉM - CONDE DEOURÉMPousada de Ourém - Conde deOurém2490-481 OURÉMT: +351 249 540 920F: +351 249 540 920E: [email protected]: www.pousadas.pt
POUSADA DE PALMELA - CASTELODE PALMELAPousada de Palmela - Castelo dePalmela2950-997 PALMELAT: +351 212 351 226F: +351 212 330 440E: [email protected]: www.pousadas.pt
POUSADA DE QUELUZ - DONAMARIA IPousada de Queluz - Dona Maria I -Lg do Palácio2745-191 QUELUZT: +351 214 356 158F: +351 214 356 189E: [email protected]: www.pousadas.pt
POUSADA DE SETÚBAL - SÃO FILIPEPousada de Setúbal - São Filipe2900-300 SETÚBALT: +351 265 550 070F: +351 265 539 240E: [email protected]: www.pousadas.pt
SOLAR DO CASTELOR. das Cozinhas, 2 (ao Castelo)1100-181 LISBOAT: +351 218 870 909F: +351 218 870 907E: [email protected]: www.heritage.pt
VINHA DA QUINTAR. dos Malmequeres, 1- Janas2710-268 SINTRAT: +351 219 292 247F: +351 212 980 725E: [email protected]: www.vinhadaquinta.com
YORK HOUSER. das Janelas Verdes, 321200-691 LISBOAT: +351 213 962 435F: +351 213 972 793E: [email protected]: www.yorkhouselisboa.com
48_49
So that you can really understand my
choice for a day’s itinerary in the city of
Lisboa, I suggest that the reader
accompanies me over the course of a
day, which would consist of my ideal
programme for the city of seven hills.
First, I must confess that I am a person
who has travelled a great deal. Through
judo, I have already been around the
world. But Lisboa has a special place in
my heart and you are about to see why.
We’ll start our day early and make the
most of it by having a good breakfast in
Belém. We just have to sample some hot
pastéis de Belém, fresh from the oven.
While we are enjoying the cream pastry
loaded with cinnamon and sugar, we
can enjoy a view of the Jerónimos
Monastery and the beautiful gardens.
By walking along the underpass, we can
visit the Tower of Belém and the
Monument to the Discoveries. We can
look out over the horizon and feel like
the first Portuguese who set out to
challenge the world.
Talking about challenges, how about a
jog along the riverfront to the Santo
Amaro Docks?
Heavenly, the sun is already hot, there’s
a light breeze in the air and the river is
by our side. After half an hour’s exercise,
we have to restore our energy. Have you
tried Portuguese bacalhau (codfish)? You
can now, in this area.
So, after an excellent meal, I suggest a
trip along the Avenida da Liberdade,
passing by Rossio and stopping at
Chiado. Let’s go shopping!
Now, already laden with shopping bags,
we’re on our way to the Lisboa Regency
Chiado Hotel for coffee. What a
wonderful view! A pleasant conversation
and the time just flies by. I check my
watch, we’re already late!
I have reserved a table at a Cape Verdean
restaurant. Why? Because Cape Verde is
also a part of Lisboa. We’re already
comfortably seated when they bring us
the pastéis de milho, (corn fritters), while
we wait for the very popular cachupa, a
typical Cape Verdean dish. This is
delicious, it could have been made by
my mother. The musicians are busy
playing a song by Cesária, how
wonderful! We’ve finished our dessert,
asked for the bill and… No, sorry, I’m the
one who invited you. We say our
goodbyes and leave.
Well, my friend it’s been a long day, and
for me that’s enough. But why don’t you
call by the Avenida 24 de Julho, and
there you’ll find something of everything.
At night time, Lisboa never stops…
Lisboa 30th May, 2005
NUNO DELGADOJUDO ATHLETE, BRONZE MEDALLIST IN THE
SYDNEY OLYMPIC GAMES, 2000
“My visionof Lisboa”
MY LISBOAACCOMMODATION
4_5
With its mild climate the whole year round, Lisboa’sesplanades are an open window onto the city.
LISBOA’SESPLANADES
TIME CAN WAIT
5* HOTELSCORINTHIA ALFA HOTELAv. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro1099-031 LISBOAT: +351 217 236 300F: +351 217 236 364E: [email protected]. www.corinthiahotels.com
HOTEL ALBATROZR. Frederico Arouca, 1002750-353 CASCAIST: +351 214 847 380F: +351 214 844 827
HOTEL ALTISR. Castilho, 111269-072 LISBOAT: +351 213 106 000F: +351 213 106 262E: [email protected]. www.hotel-altis.pt
HOTEL AVENIDA PALACER. 1º de Dezembro, 1231200-359 LISBOAT: +351 213 218 100F: +351 213 422 884E: [email protected]: www.hotel-avenida-palace.pt
HOTEL BAIRRO ALTOPç. Luís de Camões, 81200-243 LISBOAT: +351 213 408 288F: +351 213 408 299E: [email protected]: www.bairroaltohotel.com
HOTEL CASCAIS MIRAGEMAv. Marginal, 85542754-536 CASCAIST: +351 210 060 600F: +351 210 060 626E: [email protected]: www.cascaismirage.com
HOTEL DOM PEDRO LISBOAAv. Eng. Duarte Pacheco, 241070-109 LISBOAT: +351 213 896 600F: +351 213 896 601E: [email protected]: www.dompedro.com
HOTEL PALÁCIOR. do Parque2769-504 ESTORILT: +351 214 648 000F: +351 214 684 867E: [email protected]: www.hotel-estoril-palacio.pt
HOTEL REAL PALÁCIOR. Tomás Ribeiro, 1151050-228 LISBOAT: +351 213 199 500F: +351 213 199 502E: [email protected]: www.hoteisreal.com
HOTEL TIVOLI LISBOAAv. da Liberdade, 1851269-050 LISBOAT: +351 213 198 900F: +351 213 198 950E: [email protected]: www.tivolihotels.com
HOTEL TIVOLI PALÁCIO DE SETEAISAv. Barbosa du Bocage, 8 - Seteais2710-517 SINTRAT: +351 219 233 200F: +351 219 234 277E: [email protected]: www.tivolihotels.com
LAPA PALACER. Pau de Bandeira, 41249-021 LISBOAT: +351 213 949 494F: +351 213 950 665E: [email protected]: www.lapa-palace.com
LE MERIDIEN PARK ATLANTIC LISBOAR. Castilho, 1491099-034 LISBOAT: +351 213 818 700F: +351 213 890 500E: [email protected]: www.lemeridien.pt
PENHA LONGA HOTEL & GOLFRESORTEst. da Lagoa Azul - Linhó2715-511 SINTRAT: +351 219 249 011F: +351 219 249 007E: [email protected]: www.penhalonga.com
PESTANA PALACE HOTELR. Jau, 541300-314 LISBOAT: +351 213 615 600F: +351 213 615 625E: [email protected]: www.pestana.com
PRAIA D'EL REY MARRIOTT GOLF &BEACH RESORTAv. Dona Inês de Castro, 1 - Vale dasJanelas, Amoreira2510-451 ÓBIDOST: +351 262 905 100F: +351 262 905 101E: [email protected]: www.marriott.com/lisdr
RITZ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LISBOAR. Rodrigo da Fonseca, 881099-039 LISBOAT: +351 213 811 400F: +351 213 831 783E: [email protected]: www.fourseasons.com
SHERATON LISBOA HOTEL &TOWERSR. Latino Coelho, 11069-025 LISBOAT: +351 213 120 000F: +351 213 547 164E: [email protected]: www.sheraton.com/lisboa
4* HOTELSALTIS PARK HOTELAv. Eng. Arantes e Oliveira, 91900-221 LISBOAT: +351 218 434 200F: +351 218 460 838E: [email protected]: www.altishotels.com
BEST WESTERN HOTEL FLÓRIDAR. Duque de Palmela, 341250-098 LISBOAT:+351 213 576 145F: +351 213 543 584E: [email protected]: www.hotel-florida.pt
HOLIDAY INN LISBOAAv. António José de Almeida, 28 A1000-044 LISBOAT: +351 210 044 000F: +351 217 936 672E: [email protected]: www.holiday-inn.com/lisbonprt
HOLIDAY INN CONTINENTALR. Laura Alves, 91069-169 LISBOAT: +351 210 046 000F: +351 217 973 669E: [email protected]: www.grupo-continental.com
HOTEL AC LISBOALg. do Andaluz, 13 B1050-121 LISBOAT: +351 210 050 930F: +351 210 050 931E: [email protected]: www.ac-hotels.com
HOTEL AÇORES LISBOAAv. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, 11070-060 LISBOAT: +351 217 222 925F: +351 217 222 929E: [email protected]: www.www.bensaude.pt
HOTEL ATLÂNTICOAv. Marginal, 8023 A2765-249 ESTORILT: +351 214 680 270F: +351 214 683 619E: [email protected]
HOTEL AVIZR. Duque de Palmela, 321250-098 LISBOAT: +351 210 402 000F: +351 210 402 199E: [email protected]: www.hotelaviz.com
HOTEL BRITÂNIATv. do Salitre, 71269-066 LISBOAT: +351 213 155 016F: +351 213 155 021E: [email protected]: www.heritage.pt
HOTEL CIDADELAAv. 25 de Abril2745-517 CASCAIST: +351 214 827 600F: +351 214 867 226E: [email protected]
HOTEL D. MANUEL IAv. Duque de Ávila, 1891050-082 LISBOAT: +351 213 593 000F: +351 213 576 985E: [email protected]: www.hoteldmanuel.pt
HOTEL DO CAMPO GRANDECampo Grande, 71700-087 LISBOAT: +351 217 957 555F: +351 217 974 761E: [email protected]: www.hoteldocampogrande.com
HOTEL DO MARR. General Humberto Delgado, 102970-628 SESIMBRAT: +351 212 288 300F: +351 212 233 888E: [email protected]: www.hoteldomar.pt
HOTEL ESTORIL EDENAv. de Sabóia, 2092769-502 ESTORILT: +351 214 667 600F: +351 214 667 601E: [email protected]: www.hotel-estoril-eden.pt
HOTEL FÉNIX LISBOAPç. Marquês de Pombal, 81269-133 LISBOAT: +351 213 862 121F: +351 213 860 131E: [email protected]: www.fenixlisboa.com
HOTEL HERITAGE AV. LIBERDADEAv. Liberdade, 281250-145 LISBOAT: +351 213 404 040F:+351 213 404 044E: [email protected]: www.heritage.pt(Abre em 2006)
HOTEL LISBOA PLAZATv. do Salitre, 71269-066 LISBOAT: +351 213 218 218F: +351 213 471 630E: [email protected]: www.heritage.pt
HOTEL LUTÉCIAAv. Frei Miguel Contreiras, 521749-086 LISBOAT: +351 218 411 300F: +351 218 411 311E: [email protected]: www.hotel-lutecia.pt
HOTEL MARQUÊS DE POMBALAv. da Liberdade, 2431250-143 LISBOAT: +351 213 197 900F: +351 213197 990E: [email protected]: www.hotel-marquesdepombal.pt
HOTEL MERCURE LISBOAAv. José Malhoa, Lt. 16841099-051 LISBOAT: +351 217 208 000F: +351 217 208 089E: [email protected]: www.mercure.com
HOTEL MUNDIALR. Dom Duarte, 41100-198 LISBOAT: +351 218 842 000F: +351 218 842 110E: [email protected]: www.hotel-mundial.pt
HOTEL NH LIBERDADEAv. da Liberdade, 180 B1250-146 LISBOAT: +351 213 514 060F: +351 213 143 674E: [email protected]: www.nh-hotels.com
HOTEL OLISSIPPO CASTELOR. Costa do Castelo, 1261100-179 LISBOAT: +351 218 820 190F: +351 218 820 194E: [email protected]: www.olissippohotels.com
HOTEL PRAIA MARR. do Gurué, 162775-581 CARCAVELOST: +351 214 585 100F: +351 214 573 130E: [email protected]: www.almeidahotels.com
HOTEL QUINTA DA MARINHA &VILLAS - GOLF RESORTQuinta da Marinha2750-715 CASCAIST: +351 214 860 100F: +351 214 869 488E: [email protected]: www.quintadamarinha.com
HOTEL REAL OEIRASR. Álvaro Rodrigues de Azevedo, 52770-197 PAÇO DE ARCOST: +351 214 469 900F: +351 214 469 901E: [email protected]: www.hoteisreal.com
HOTEL SOFITEL LISBOAAv. da Liberdade, 1271269-038 LISBOAT:+351 213 228 310E: [email protected]: www.sofitel.com
HOTEL TIVOLI JARDIMR. Júlio César Mcahado, 7/91250-135 LISBOAT: +351 213 591 000F: +351 213 591 245E: [email protected]: www.tivolihotels.com
HOTEL TIVOLI SINTRAPç. da República2710-616 SINTRAT: +351 219 237 200F: +351 219 237 245E: [email protected]: www.tivolihotels.com
HOTEL TIVOLI TEJOAv. Dom João II1990-083 LISBOAT: +351 218 915 100F: +351 218 915 345E: [email protected]: www.tivolihotels.com
HOTEL TRYP ORIENTEAv. Dom João II, Lt 1.16.02 B1990-083 LISBOAT: +351 218 930 000F: +351 218 930 099E: [email protected]: www.tryporiente.solmelia.com
HOTEL VILA GALÉ ÓPERATv. do Conde da Ponte1300-141 LISBOAT: +351 213 605 400F: +351 213 605 450E: [email protected]: www.vilagale.pt
HOTEL VILLA RICAAv. 5 de Outubro, 301/3191600-035 LISBOAT: +351 210 043 000F: +351 210 043 499E: [email protected]: www.hotelvillarica.com
HOTEL VIP DIPLOMÁTICOR. Castilho, 741250-071 LISBOAT: +351 213 839 020F: +351 213 862 155E: [email protected]: www.viphotels.com
HOTEL ZENIT LISBOAAv. 5 de Outubro, 111050-047 LISBOAT: +351 213 102 200F: +351 213 102 209E: [email protected]: www.zenithoteles.com
LISBOA MARRIOTT HOTELAv. dos Combatentes, 451600-042 LISBOAT: +351 217 235 400F: +351 217 264 281E: [email protected]: www.marriott.com/lispt
LISBOA REGENCY CHIADOR. Nova do Almada, 1141200-290 LISBOAT: +351 213 256 100F: +351 213 256 161E: [email protected]: www.regency-hotels-resorts.com
RADISSON SAS HOTEL LISBOAAv. Marechal Craveiro Lopes, 3901749-009 LISBOAT: +351 210 045 000F: +351 210 045 001E: [email protected]: www.radisson.com/lisbonpt
REAL PARQUE HOTELAv. Luís Bívar, 671069-146 LISBOAT: +351 213 199 000F: +351 213 570 750E: [email protected]: www.hoteisreal.com
SANA LISBOA HOTELAv. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 81069-310 LISBOAT: +351 210 064 300F: +351 210 064 301E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA MALHOA HOTELAv. José Malhoa, 81099-089 LISBOAT: +351 210 061 800F: +351 210 061 801E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA METROPOLITAN HOTELR. Soeiro Pereira Gomes, Parcela 21600-198 LISBOAT: +351 217 982 500F: +351 217 950 864E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SANA SESIMBRA HOTELAv. 25 de Abril2970-634 SESIMBRAT: +351 212 289 000F: +351 212 289 001E: [email protected]: www.sanahotels.com
SUITES DO MARQUÊSAv. Duque de Loulé, 451050-086 LISBOAT: +351 213 510 480F: +351 213 531 865E: [email protected]: www.hotelsuitesdomarques.com
TURIM EUROPA HOTELR. São Sebastião da Pedreira,17/191050 LISBOAT: +351 213 139 410F: +351 213 139 419E: [email protected]: www.turimhotels.com
TURIM LISBOA HOTELR. Filipe Folque, 201050-113 LISBOAT: +351 213 139 410F: +351 213 139 419E: [email protected]: www.turimhotels.com
46_47
Rising up over the Tagus Estuary, one of the largest in
Europe, Lisboa stands to be observed – its light, the
colours of its buildings, its dark red rooftops, like the
scales of some giant fish slumbering on the shore of
the river’s edge. It is an unforgettable picture for those
first visiting it. Moreover, with its famous seven hills,
like Rome, there are many high points in the city from
which one can admire the panorama. And what better
plan could there be, after the climbs and descents on
foot through the narrow streets of the old
neighbourhoods, than to watch a sunset with the Tagus
as the backdrop, whilst enjoying a coffee or a fresh
drink? With its mild climate the whole year round,
Lisboa’s esplanades are an open window onto the city.
So here are some suggestions for the best viewing points:
At Chiado, if you go up to the last floor of the hotel
bearing the same name, next to the Grandes Armazéns,
there is a cosy terrace where you can have breakfast,
or make time before dinner, whilst admiring a view of
the houses descending down to the river and rising
up to the São Jorge Castle.
Next, is the Largo das Portas do Sol, perhaps the most
famous esplanade for foreign visitors, and one that is
mentioned in all the guidebooks as an absolute must.
Although the terrace is quite small, the actual view
opens out onto practically the whole of the old city,
spanning east to west.
Yet another vantage point is the esplanade above the
Eduardo VII Park, set alongside a small lake, or the
second floor of the top-class restaurant, Eleven,
overlooking the greenery of one of city’s largest gardens.
In the distance is the Tagus, always present. Close by,
at the Estufa Fria, (Cool House), there is a small covered
esplanade, surrounded by exotic plants. A relatively
unknown, shady spot, ideal for a small break to catch
up on your guidebook, and for some silence.
Then, there are the esplanades that are more suited
for observing the to-and-fro of people, their
conversations, gestures, faces, clothes…
You can begin at Martinho da Arcada, at the Terreiro
do Paço. This was a favourite haunt of the poet and
writer, Fernando Pessoa, who spent many of his late
afternoons here, after leaving work.
LEISURE
6_7
LISBOA’SESPLANADES
And, if you want to continue the Pessoa tour, then you
will naturally want to meet his statue, seated at the
esplanade of the Brasileira, in the Chiado. This is one of
the busiest areas of the city, its underground station
registering more passengers than any other.
Going down to Rossio provides you with the
opportunity of sitting at what has been for decades
the most famous esplanade in the capital – the
Pastelaria Suíça. Sitting here, you’ll be able to appreciate
why they say that Lisboa is made up of many different
types of people – cultures from all the continents come
together in this area, residents and foreigners, in an
agreeable confusion of languages, styles of dressing
and gesticulating.
If you then continue, walking up the city’s main avenue,
you will find plenty of esplanades on the pavement
along the Avenida da Liberdade, which used to be the
old pedestrian thoroughfare. In between the trees,
alongside small ponds, it is a great place to take a rest.
It also follows the underground line, so it can serve as
a useful point of departure for more distant excursions.
The same goes for the esplanades at the Campo Grande
gardens, generally frequented by university students,
from the neighbouring faculties. This is an area with a
big lake and lots of trees and it also has a cycle path.
Many of the city’s museums have small esplanades.
That of the Museum of Ancient Art enjoys an excellent
view over the Tagus. The Museum of Chiado has an
interior patio which is an interesting example of modern
architecture. The gardens of the Gulbenkian Foundation
are full of small esplanades hidden amidst the trees
and plants, where you can take a rest. In the area of
Belém, the upper terrace of the Cultural Centre,
landscaped with olive trees and just in front of the
Tagus, is a perfect place from which to appreciate the
celebrated light of Lisboa, reflected and diffused on
the river’s water. Moreover, there are often music recitals
at the end of the day at the Centre.
Lisboa’s Esplanades – sitting at them, is like taking part
in a film. The anonymous extra in an eternal film who
forgets the time that passes.
TIMECANWAIT
HANDICRAFTS ANDSOUVENIRSALBERTO SANTOSPç. dos Restauradores, 641250-188 LISBOAT: +351 213 477 875F: +351 213 420 236
ARTESANATO DO TEJOR. do Arsenal, 251100-038 LISBOAT: +351 210 312 820F: +351 210 312 819E: [email protected]: www.atlx.pt
BAZAR MUMILg. Santo António da Sé, 6/81100-499 LISBOAT: +351 218 870 089E: [email protected]
ELÉCTRICO DE LISBOAApartado 143341064-004 LISBOAT: +351 217 540 093F: +351 217 540 123E: [email protected]
LINHO BORDADOR. Cidade de Horta, 36 A1000 LISBOAT: +351 962 827 365F: +351 218 476 941
LOJA DOS DESCOBRIMENTOSR. dos Bacalhoeiros, 12 A1100-070 LISBOAT: +351 218 865 563E: [email protected]
MATEUS SHOPR. Castilho, 61 B1250-068 LISBOAT: +351 213 863 830F: +351 213 860 879E: [email protected]: www.mateus-shop.com
SANTOS OFÍCIOSR. da Madalena, 871100-319 LISBOAT: +351 218 872 031E: [email protected]: www.santosoficios-artesanato.pt
SOPA DE XILOFONER. da Bica Duarte Belo, 12 A1250-052 LISBOAT: +351 938 647 888F: +351 219 759 109E: [email protected]: www.sopadexilofone.com
BARS ANDDISCOTHEQUESBELÉM BAR CAFÉAv. Brasília, Pavilhão Poente1300-598 LISBOAT: +351 213 624 232F: +351 213 624 243E: [email protected]: www.belembarcafe.ptBLUES CAFÉ - RESTAURAÇÃO
R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa - Edif. 2261300 LISBOAT: +351 213 957 085F: +351 213 957 106E: [email protected]: www.bluescafe.pt
CAFÉ TEATRO SANTIAGO ALQUIMISTAR. de Santiago, 191100-493 LISBOAT: +351 218 820 533F: +351 218 868 917E: [email protected]: www.santiagoalquimista.com
CHAMPAGNE CLUBCais da Rocha do Conde de óbidos - Armazém1151350-352 LISBOAT: +351 213 961 886F: +351 213 961 923W: www.champagne-club.com
DANÇARTE - DANÇAS COM SABORESComplexo Desportivo Municipal de Sintra -Lourel2710 SINTRAT: +351 219 246 178F: +351 219 246 180E: [email protected]: www.dancarte.com
HENNESSY'S IRISH PUBR. Cais do Sodré, 32/381200-450 LISBOAT: +351 213 431 064F: +351 213 431 064E: [email protected]: www.hennessys.com.pt
KAIS - RESTAURANTE BARR. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa - Cais daViscondessa1200-109 LISBOAT: +351 213 932 930F: +351 213 932 939E: [email protected]: www.kais-k.com
NUTS CLUBAv. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 72750-461 CASCAIST: +351 214 844 109F: +351 214 836 461E: [email protected]: www.nuts-club.com
OGILIN'S IRISH PUBR. dos Remolares, 81200-371 LISBOAT: +351 213 421 899F: +351 219 282 949
ONDAJAZZArco de Jesus, 7 - Alfama1100-033 LISBOAT: +351 218 873 064F: +351 214 572 248E: [email protected]: www.ondajazz.com
PASSERELLEAv. Óscar Monteiro Torres, 8 A1000-219 LISBOAT: +351 217 932 944F: +351 213 562 349E: [email protected]: www.passerelle.pt
PIANO-BAR COPU'SSolplay Hotel de ApartamentosR. Manuel da Silva Gaio, 22795-132 LINDA-A-VELHAT: +351 210 066 000F: +351 210 066 199W: www.solplay.pt/hotel
THE FROG AT EXPOR. da Pimenta, 17/211990-254 LISBOAT: +351 218 952 898F: +351 218 952 899E: [email protected]: www.frogpubs.com
FOOD AND WINESADIVINHOTv. do Almada, 241100-018 LISBOAT: +351 218 860 419F: +351 218 860 419E: [email protected]: www.adivinho.com
CASA CADAVALR. Vasco da Gama2125-317 MUGET: +351 243 588 040F: +351 243 581 105E: [email protected]: www.casacadaval.pt
CASA DOS SABORES DE PORTUGALAeroporto de Lisboa – Partidas, Lj. 11/12T: +351 218 494 913F: +351 213 575 427E: [email protected]
COISAS DO ARCO DO VINHOCentro Cultural de BelémR. Bartolomeu Dias, Lojas 7 e 81400-026 LISBOAT: 213 642 031F: 213 642 031E: [email protected]: www.coisasdoarcodovinho.pt
COISAS DO VINHO - ADEGA REGIONAL DECOLARESAlam. Corornel Linhares de Lima, 24/322705-135 COLAREST: +351 219 282 733F: +351 219 282 735E: [email protected]: www.coisasdovinho.pt
COMPANHIA AGRÍCOLA DO SANGUINHAL -ENOTURISMOQuinta das Cerejeiras - Apdo. 52544-909 BOMBARRALT: +351 262 609 190F: +351 262 609 191E: [email protected]: www.vinhos-sanguinhal.pt
GARRAFEIRA NACIONALR. de Santa Justa, 181100-485 LISBOAT: +351 218 879 080F: +351 218 877 526E: [email protected]: www.garrafeiranacional.com
MAGNÓLIA CAFFÉ FINE FOODCampo Pequeno, 2 A1000-078 LISBOAT: +351 217 959 852F: +351 217 931 152E: [email protected]: www.magnoliacaffe.com
NAPOLEÃO WINE SHOPSR. dos Fanqueiros, 701100-231 LISBOAT: +351 218 872 042F: +351 218 861 109E: [email protected]: www.napoleao.co.pt
NOVA AÇOREANAR.da Prata, 116/1181100-420 LISBOAT: +351 218 879 870
TOURISTFACILITIESCHAPITÔCosta do Castelo, 1/71149-079 LISBOAT: +351 218 855 550F: +351 218 861 463E: [email protected]: www.chapito.org
ESPAÇO RIBEIRAAv. 24 de Julho - Mercado da Ribeira1200-479 LISBOAT: +351 210 312 600F: +351 210 312 621E: [email protected]: www.espacoribeira.pt
JARDIM ZOOLÓGICO DE LISBOAEst. de Benfica, 158-1601549-004 LISBOAT: +351 217 232 900F: +351 217 232 901E: [email protected]: www.zoo.sapo.pt
OCEANÁRIO DE LISBOAEsplanada Dom Carlos I - Doca dos Olivais1990-005 LISBOAT: +351 218 917 002F: +351 218 955 762E: [email protected]: www.oceanario.pt
PARQUE EXPO 98Av. Dom João II. Lt. 1.07.2.1 - Edif.Administrativo1998-014 LISBOAT: +351 218 919 898F: +351 218 919 789E: [email protected]: www.parqueexpo.pt
SOLPLAY FAMILY HEALTH CLUBAv. 25 de Abril, 332799-506 LINDA-A-VELHAT: +351 214 146 000F: +351 214 144 449E: [email protected]: www.solplay.pt
FADO HOUSESA SEVERA - RESTAURANTE TÍPICOR. das Gáveas, 51/611200-206 LISBOAT: +351 213 428 314F: +351 213 464 006E: [email protected]: www.asevera.com
ADEGA MACHADOR. do Norte, 911200-284 LISBOAT: +351 213 224 640F: +351 213 467 507
ADEGA MESQUITAR. do Diário de Notícias, 1071200-142 LISBOAT: +351 213 219 280F: +351 213 467 131E: [email protected]: www.adegamesquita.com
BACALHAU DE MOLHOBeco dos Armazéns do Linho, 11100-037 LISBOAT: +351 218 865 088F: +351 218 865 078E: [email protected]: www.casadelinhares.com
CAFÉ LUSOTv. da Queimada, 101200-365 LISBOAT: +351 213 422 281F: +351 213 478 320E: [email protected]: www.cafeluso.pt
CLUBE DO FADOR. São João da Praça, 941100-521 LISBOAT: +351 218 852 704F: +351 218 882 694E: [email protected]: www.clube-do-fado.com
SR. VINHOR. do Meio à Lapa, 181200-723 LISBOAT: +351 213 972 681F: +351 213 952 072E: [email protected]: www.restsrvinho.com
TAVERNA D'EL REYLg. do Chafariz de Dentro, 151100-139 LISBOAT: +351 218 876 754F: +351 218 876 754E: [email protected]: www.tavernadelrey.com
TIMPANASR. Gilberto Rola, 22/241350-155 LISBOAT: +351 213 906 655F: +351 213 972 431
VELHO PÁTEO DE SANT'ANAR. Dr. Almeida Amaral, 61150-138 LISBOAT: +351 213 141 063F: +351 213 153 153E: [email protected]: www.velhopateosantana.com
44_45
“Lisboa of a thousandwindows”
MY LISBOA
HELDERMOUTINHOFADO SINGER
Lisboa has a thousand windows
A thousand stories of caravels
A thousand guitars strumming
I have almost nothing
I have my dawn
And a little of your glance
Lisboa has its trees
A castle with nothing left to fear
And a river the colour of the sea
I have my joy
Painted with fantasy
And a little of your glance
Lisboa has its ferries
Who try to be the first
To see Lisboa waking up
I have a boat on the Tagus
That I haven’t seen for a while
And a little of your glance
Lisboa has the smell of the sea
On calm nights
When one sings and dreams
I have fado in my heart
And a sound voice
And a little of your glance
Lisboa, 1994
MONUMENTS& MUSEUMS
8_9
LISBOA FORWALKING,WATCHING
ANDEATING
MAFALDA ARNAUTH,a young woman “captured” by fado
Not even she knows how destiny got her involved in
this. But Mafalda Arnauth was “captured” by Fado and,
in just a few years, her extraordinary voice and the
poetry she writes have made a decisive contribution
to the new wave that is sweeping the so called
Portuguese national song. Born in Lisboa, she spoke to
us of the Lisboa she belongs to and for which she
experiences immediate saudades (a sense of longing)
when she has to spend time away from the light, the
river and her people.
MONUMENTS AND MUSEUMSARTE GALERIALisboa Welcome CenterR. do Arsenal, 15 - 1º1100-038 LISBOAT: +351 964 077 879E: [email protected]: www.artegaleria.com.pt
HOUSE-MUSEUM MEDEIROS E ALMEIDA FOUNDATIONR. Rosa Araújo, 411250-194 LISBOAT: +351 213 547 892F: +351 213 561 951E: [email protected]: www.fundacaomedeirosealmeida.pt
HOUSE-MUSEUM DR. ANASTÁCIO GONÇALVESAv. 5 de Outubro, 6/81050-055 LISBOAT: +351 213 540 823F: +351 213 548 754E: [email protected]: www.cmag-ipmuseus.pt
HOUSE-MUSEUM MESTRE JOÃO DA SILVAR. Tenente Raul Cascais, 11 R/C1250-268 LISBOAT: +351 213 961 396F: +351 213 961 396
MUSEUM OF THE MACAO CULTURAL AND SCIENTIFIC CENTRER. da Junqueira, 301300-343 LISBOAT: +351 213 617 570F: +351 213 617 598E: [email protected]: www.cccm.mcies.pt
MODERN ART CENTRE MUSEUM JOSÉ AZEVEDO PERDIGÃOR. Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt1050-078 LISBOAT: +351 217 823 474F: +351 217 823 037E: [email protected]: www.gulbenkian.pt
ARPAD SZENES-VIEIRA DA SILVA FOUNDATIONPç. das Amoreiras, 56/581250-020 LISBOAT: +351 213 880 044F: +351 213 880 039E: [email protected]: www.fasvs.pt
CULTURSINTRA FOUNDATIONQuinta da Regaleira2710 SINTRAT: +351 219 106 650F: +351 219 244 725E: [email protected]
RICARDO ESPÍRITO SANTOS SILVA FOUNDATIONLg. das Portas do Sol, 21100-411 LISBOAT: +351 218 814 600F: +351 218 814 638E: [email protected]: www.fress.pt
INSENSATEZ - GALERIA DE ARTER. Bartolomeu de Gusmão, 211100-078 LISBOAT: +351 218 880 553F: +351 218 880 553E: [email protected]: www.insensatez.net
JERÓNIMOS MONASTERYPç. do Império1400-206 LISBOAT: +351 213 620 034F: +351 213 639 145E: [email protected]: www.mosteirojeronimos.pt
THE CARMO ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUMLg. do Carmo- Ruínas do Convento do Carmo1200-092 LISBOAT: +351 213 460 473F: +351 213 244 252
PHARMACY MUSEUMR. Marechal Saldanha, 11249-069 LISBOAT: +351 213 400 680F: +351 213 472 994E: [email protected]: www.anf.pt
MUSIC MUSEUMEstação de Metropolitano do Alto dos MoínhosR. João de Freitas Branco1500-359 LISBOAT: +351 217 710 991F: +351 217 710 999E: [email protected]: www.museudamusica-ipmuseus.pt
PRESIDENTS OF THE REPUBLIC MUSEUMPç. Afonso de Albuquerque1349-022 LISBOAT: +351 213 614 660F: +351 213 614 764E: [email protected]: www.museu.presidencia.pt
RÁDIO MUSEUMR. de Quelhas, 211200-779 LISBOAT: +351 213 950 762F: +351 213 957 149E: [email protected]: www.rdp.pt/geral/museu/index.htm
COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUMR. do Instituto Industrial, 161200-225 LISBOAT: +351 213 935 159F: +351 213 935 006E: [email protected]: www.fcp.pt
FOLK ART MUSEUMAv. Brasília1400-038 LISBOAT: +351 213 011 282F: +351 213 011 128E: [email protected]: www.ipmuseus.pt/portu/museus/apopular.htm
FÁTIMA WAX MUSEUMR. Jacinto Marto2495-450 FÁTIMAT: +351 249 539 300F: +351 249 539 301E: [email protected]: www.mucefa.pt
NAVAL MUSEUMPç. do Império1400-206 LISBOAT: +351 213 620 019F: +351 213 631 987E: [email protected]: www.museumarinha.pt
CHIADO MUSEUMR. Serpa Pinto, 41200-444 LISBOAT: +351 213 432 148F: +351 213 432 151E: [email protected]: www.museudochiado-ipmuseus.pt
MILITARY MUSEUMLg. de Santa Apolónia1196 LISBOAT: +351 218 842 568F: +351 218 842 556E: [email protected]: www.geira.pt/militar
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGYPç. do Império1400-206 LISBOAT: +351 213 620 000F: +351 213 620 016E: [email protected]: www.mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt
NATIONAL ART MUSEUMR. das Janelas Verdes1249-017 LISBOAT: +351 213 912 800F: +351 213 973 703E: [email protected]: www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGYAv. Ilha da Madeira1400-203 LISBOAT: +351 213 041 160F: +351 213 013 994E: [email protected]: www.mnetnologia-ipmuseus.pt
NATIONAL TILE MUSEUMR. da Madre de Deus, 41900-312 LISBOAT: +351 218 100 340F: +351 218 100 369E: [email protected]: www.mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt
NATIONAL THEATRE MUSEUMEst. do Lumiar, 10/121600-495 LISBOAT: +351 217 567 410F: +351 217 575 714E: [email protected]: www.museudoteatro-ipmuseus.pt
NATIONAL DRESS MUSEUMLg. Júlio de Castilho1600-483 LISBOAT: +351 217 590 318F: +351 217 591 224E: [email protected]: www.museudotraje-ipmuseus.pt
NATIONAL COACH MUSEUMPç. Afonso de Albuquerque1300-004 LISBOAT: +351 213 610 850F: +351 213 637 246E: [email protected]: www.museudoscoches-ipmuseus.pt
AJUDA NATIONAL PALACELg. da Ajuda1349-021 LISBOAT: +351 213 620 264F: +351 213 648 223E: [email protected]: www.cidadevirtual.pt/palacio-ajuda/
PENA NATIONAL PALACEPalácio Nacional da Pena2710-609 SINTRAT: +351 219 105 340F: +351 219 105 341E: [email protected]: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_pena.html
MAFRA NATIONAL PALACEPalácio Nacional de Mafra2640-492 MAFRAT: +351 261 817 550F: +351 261 811 947E: [email protected]: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_mafra.html
QUELUZ NATIONAL PALACELg. do Palácio2745-191 QUELUZT: +351 214 343 860F: +351 214 343 878E: [email protected]: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_queluz.html
SINTRA NATIONAL PALACELg. Rainha Dona Amélia2710-616 SINTRAT: +351 219 106 840F: +351 219 106 851E: [email protected]: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_sintra.html
PAVILLION OF KNOWLEDGE LIVE SCIENCEParque das Nações - Alam. dos Oceanos1990-223 LISBOAT: +351 218 917 100F: +351 218 917 171E: [email protected]: www.pavconhecimento.pt
MAFRA NATIONAL WILD LIFE PARKPortão do Codeçal2640-602 MAFRAT: +351 261 817 050F: +351 261 814 984E: [email protected]: www.tapadademafra.pt
BELÉM TOWERAv. de BrasíliaT: +351 213 620 034F: +351 213 639 145E: [email protected]: www.mosteirojeronimos.pt
42_43
The olive trees at the esplanade of the Belém Cultural
Centre offer little shade on an afternoon in which the
sun is already high in the sky and there is no breeze
from the sea. An intense, yet diffuse light is reflected
from the Tagus, spreading across Lisboa, the city built
on steps, stage to a spectacle of a thousand colours.
Mafalda Arnauth, a young fado singer whose voice and
style, in just a few years, have gained a new generation
of admirers of Fado, is about to release another album.
She talks to MY OWN LISBOA about her plans and the
relationship she has with Lisboa, “a city to fall in love
with“.
“This is the album of my life, in terms of histories,
moments, influences”, she explains. It contains songs
she has written and composed herself, as well as
adaptations. It includes Milonga do Chiado (a
neighbourhood of Lisboa), to which Mafalda has added
the refrain – “Ah, how I understand / that I still miss you
/ The cruel ashes that remember / A happy time. I was
also left / without all that I wanted / Without all that I
loved /And whenever I return here/ I share with you
the smell of what it was to love”.
Mafalda Arnauth loves Lisboa, she walks around it every
day – but she does have a favourite area, Graça. One
day, whilst she was showing the city to an Argentinean
friend, from the top of this hill, she was inspired to write
a fado: “And I run down to the river / kissing the
Cathedral on the way/ I reach the Alfama in a delirium
/ because my Faith is larger”.
“I really miss Lisboa. When I travel, I have enormous
saudades, especially because of the never ending
contact we have with the river and the sea”, she says.
“And then, Lisboa is this mix of so many different people.
The old part, where in some quarters neighbours live
so closely together almost as if it was still the Middle
Ages, and the more modern areas, with their
cosmopolitan rhythm, which is in complete contrast”.
The ascents and descents of the trams also have their
charm, but Mafalda recommends walking. From Graça,
Castelo, through the Alfama, down to the river, then
along the riverside to Belém. “So that a foreigner can
get to know the people of Lisboa better, because there
is a characteristic common to all the Portuguese – a
playful cheekiness, it’s very typical, at the same time as
being sweet and open. It’s something you can’t describe
with words. You can only discover alfacinhas (an
affectionate term for the people of Lisboa – meaning
baby lettuce) by having real contact with them”.
Mafalda made her debut in 1995, at the São Luís Theatre,
a venue in the area of Chiado, which she describes as
magical. However, her voice has taken her to other
exceptionally beautiful places with a very special
atmosphere, such as the Ajuda Palace.
It can’t be said that the fado singer only likes the food
of Lisboa – “The problem is that I like everything, that’s
my weakness”, she laughs. However, she loves traditional
Portuguese cooking and the advice she gives to anyone
who isn’t familiar with it, is to eat fresh fish and sea
food, bacalhau (codfish), naturally, and the sweets. And,
if it’s during the summer they mustn’t miss sardines.
“For a restaurant, try the Solar dos Presuntos, near
Avenida da Liberdade (on the same road as the Coliseu
dos Recreios). It’s always good, the dishes are really
Portuguese, not touristy”. Or try Guincho or the left
bank of the Tagus, for fish and seafood, “there are a lot
of good restaurants over on the other side”.
THEENCHANTMENT
OFLISBOA
MAFALDA ARNAUTH
RESTAURANTS
10_11
Mafalda Arnauth complains about the major building
works in strategic areas of Lisboa, such as the Marquês
de Pombal and the Terreiro do Paço (“But I suppose
the renovation of the big cities has to be like that”) and
the traffic and problems with parking. But she tries to
appreciate the city, without letting stress get a hold of
her, given all the rushing about she does due to the
fact she is a composer, writer, singer and she produces
her own albums and shows.
“Mafalda Arnauth”, “Esta voz que me atravessa” (This
Voice that crosses through me) and “Encantamento”
(Enchantment) are the three albums that the singer
has produced so far. Essentially, they amount to a kind
of sung biography by someone who has written poetry
since she was 15 and who sees herself as “more than
just optimistic, someone who is able to overcome
adversities”.
It was her school friends that first recognised her talent.
“I never imagined that one day I would become a fado
singer”, she confesses. “Listening to live fado, creates
a very special empathy that can’t be reproduced on an
album. And for the person singing it there is a rush of
adrenalin. It’s very emotional and quite special”, she
explains. Once she tried it “she was captured by Fado”,
which even led to her physical transformation. She
concludes, quoting Amália Rodrigues: “Fado happened
to me”.
A VOICEWITHOUTVICES
Mafalda Arnauth was born in Lisboa on 4th October,
1974 and revealed a passion for music from very early
on. Without ever having aspired to be a performer,
Mafalda Arnauth found herself immediately transported
into the world of concerts, tours, rehearsals and fado
houses, where she was soon overwhelmed by the
audience’s enthusiastic applause and the discovery of
herself through song.
With the freshness characteristic of a voice without
“vices”, she captivated audiences, firstly, through her
spontaneity, then, through the memories she evoked
with a repertoire of old favourites and finally, because
of her nature, her compositions and her personality,
showing herself in a more genuine and truthful way.
Inspired by this approach, even her first album is full
of her own compositions.
During the course of her concerts that have taken her
to many places in the world, her shows have developed
their own particular style. It is through her own songs
that she has revealed herself most deeply and her
concern is to increase her own repertoire even further
so that in time she will leave a mark for her country,
her culture, but with her own words. In every continent,
she leaves behind her a mark of the past which inspired
her, of the present that she inhabits and the future she
plans for. Above all, Mafalda Arnauth wants to
communicate...
RESTAURANTSA COMMENDACentro Cultural de Belém - Pç. doImpério1499-003 LISBOAT: +351 213 648 561F: +351 213 612 610E: [email protected]
A PESCARIACais da Ribeira Nova, Armazém18/191200 LISBOAT: +351 213 463 588F: +351 213 463 588E: [email protected]
ADEGA DO TEIXEIRAR. do Teixeira, 39 - Bairro Alto1200-459 LISBOAT: +351 213 428 320
AFREUDITEPasseio das Garças, Lt. 4.39- Lj. 1 J1880-388 LISBOAT: +351 218 940 660F: +351 219 459 604E: [email protected]: www.afreudite.com
ÁGUA E SALOceanário de Lisboa - EsplanadaDom Carlos I- Doca dos Olivais1990-005 LISBOAT: +351 218 936 189F: +351 218 936 187E: [email protected]
ALECRIM ÀS FLORESTv. do Alecrim, 41200-019 LISBOAT: +351 213 225 368F: +351 213 431 600E: [email protected]
ARMAZÉM FR. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa -Armazém 65, Cais do Gás1200-109 LISBOAT: +351 213 220 160F: +351 213 471 135E: [email protected]: www.armazemf.com
ATANVÁR. da Pimenta, 43/451990-254 LISBOAT: +351 218 950 480F: +351 218 950 484E: [email protected]: www.parquedasnacoes.pt/pt/restauracao/
BELÉM TERRACEAv. Brasília -Edif. de Apoio à NáuticaBelém1400-038 LISBOAT: +351 213 620 865E: [email protected]
BICA DO SAPATOAv. Infante Dom Henrique - Cais daPedra a Santa Apolónia B1900 LISBOAT: +351 218 810 320F: +351 218 810 329E: [email protected]: www.luxfragil.com/bicasapato/bica_beta.html
BUFFET DO PLAZAHotel Lisboa Plaza- TV. do Salitre, 71269-066 LISBOAT: +351 213 218 218F: +351 213 471 630E: [email protected]: www.heritage.pt
CAFÉ INAv. Brasília, Pavilhão Nascente, 3111300-123 LISBOAT: +351 213 626 248F: +351 213 625 999E: café[email protected]: www.gastronomias.com/café-in
CAFÉ MARTINHO DA ARCADAPç. do Comércio, 31100-148 LISBOAT: +351 218 866 213F: +351 218 867 757
CASA DO BACALHAUR. do Grilo, 541900-706 LISBOAT: +351 218 620 000F: +351 218 620 008E: [email protected]: www.acasadobacalhau.restaunet.pt
CASA MÉXICOAv. Dom Carlos I, 1401200-651 LISBOAT: +351 213 974 790F: +351 213 975 390E: [email protected]: www.casamexico.pt
CLARA - JARDIM RESTAURANTECampo Mártires da Pátria, 491150-225 LISBOAT: +351 218 853 053F: +351 218 852 082E: [email protected]: www.lisboa-clara.pt
CONSENSOR. Academia das Ciências, 11200-003 LISBOAT: +351 213 431 311F: +351 213 431 312
COSMOS CAFÉDoca de Santo Amaro, Armazém243 - Pavilhão 51350-353 LISBOAT: +351 213 972 747F: +351 213 972 747
DOM POMODORODoca de Santo Amaro, Armazém 131350-353 LISBOAT: +351 213 909 353F: +351 213 909 354E: [email protected]: www.donpomodoro.com
ELEVENR. Marquês de Fronteira - JardimAmália Rodrigues1070 LISBOAT: +351 213 862 211F: +351 213 862 214E: [email protected]: www.restauranteleven.com
ESPAÇO LISBOAR. da Cozinha Económica, 16/281300-149 LISBOAT: +351 213 610 210F: +351 213 610 211E: [email protected]
ESPÍRITO DOS TACHOSCç. da Estrela, 35/371200-166 LISBOAT: +351 213 970 003
HARD ROCK CAFÉAv. da Liberdade, 21250-144 LISBOAT: +351 213 245 280F: +351 213 245 288E: [email protected]: www.hardrock.com
IMPÉRIO DOS SENTIDOSR. da Atalaia, 35/371200-037 LISBOAT: +351 213 431 822E: [email protected]
INÍCIO - RESTAURANTE/BARR. Presidente Arriaga, 551200 LISBOAT: +351 213 905 164W: www.iniciorestaurante.com
JARDIM DO MARISCOAv. Infante Dom Henrique - Docado Tabaco, Pavilhão A/B1100-282 LISBOAT: +351 218 824 240F: +351 218 824 249E: [email protected]: www.jardimdomarisco.pt
LA CAFFÉ - AV. LIBERDADEAv. da Liberdade, 129 B - 1º1250-140 LISBOAT: +351 213 256 736F: +351 217 986 417E: [email protected]: www.lanidor.com
LA CAFFÉ - CAMPO GRANDECampo Grande, 3 B1700-087 LISBOAT: +351 217 986 418F: +351 217 986 417E: [email protected]: www.lanidor.com
LX IT LISBONNA ITALIANAR. das Gáveas,15/17 Bairro Alto1200-206 LISBOAT: +351 213 432 124E: [email protected]
MAGNOLIA CAFFÉ - LONDRESAv. de Roma, 71000-260 LISBOAT: +351 218 471 163E: [email protected]: www.magnoliacaffe.com
MAR DE SABORESPasseio das Tágides, Lt. 2.25.011990-280 LISBOAT: +351 218 922 750F: +351 218 922 757E: [email protected]: www.mardesabores.pt
NARIZ DE VINHO TINTOR. do Conde, 75 R/C1200-636 LISBOAT: +351 213 953 035F: +351 213 932 281
NUNE'S REAL MARISQUEIRAR. Bartolomeu Dias, 120 - Lt. D 1,R/C1400-031 LISBOAT: +351 213 019 899F: +351 213 019 899E: [email protected]: www.nunesrealmarisqueira.com
PASTELARIA MEXICANAAv. Guerra Junqueiro, 30 C1000-167 LISBOAT: +351 218 486 117F: +351 218 488 462E: [email protected]: www.pastelariamexicana.pt
PASTELARIA SUIÇAPç. Dom Pedro IV, 96/1011100-202 LISBOAT: +351 213 214 090F: +351 213 214 099E: [email protected]: www.casasuica.pt
PEIXÃOR. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa -Edif. 254, Armazém I1200-109 LISBOAT: +351 213 971 507F: +351 213 971 203E: [email protected]
REAL FÁBRICAR. da Escola Politécnica, 2751250-101 LISBOAT: +351 213 852 090F: +351 213 872 919E: [email protected]: www.realfabrica.pt
RESTAURANTE A TRAVESSATv. do Convento das Bernardas, 121200-687 LISBOAT: +351 213 902 034F: +351 213 940 839E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE AD-LIBHotel Sofitel LisboaAv. da Liberdade, 1271269-038 LISBOAT: +351 213 228 350F: +351 213 228 310E: [email protected]: www.sofitel.com
RESTAURANTE AVIZHotel AvizR. Duque de Palmela, 321250-098 LISBOAT: +351 210 402 000F: +351 210 402 199E: [email protected]: www.hotelaviz.pt
RESTAURANTE BELCANTOLg. de São Carlos, 101200-023 LISBOAT: +351 213 420 607F: +351 213 420 608E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE BOULEVARDHotel Travel Park LisboaAv. Almirante Reis,641150-020 LISBOAT: +351 218 102 100f: +351 218 102 198E: [email protected]: www.hoteltravelpark.com
RESTAURANTE CASA 21R. Prof. Fernando da Fonseca -Complexo Alvalade XXI1600-616 LISBOAT: +351 217 512 380F: +351 217 512 399E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE CASA DO LEÃOCastelo de São Jorge1100-129 LISBOAT: +351 218 880 154F: +351 218 876 329W: www.pousadas.pt
RESTAURANTE COZINHA VELHAPousada de Queluz - Dona Maria ILg. do Palácio2745-191 QUELUZT: +351 214 350 232F: +351 214 356 189W: www.pousadas.pt
RESTAURANTE DO TEATROHotel NH LiberdadeAv. da Liberdade, 180 B1250-146 LISBOAT: +351 213 514 060F: +351 213 143 674E: [email protected]: www.nh-hotels.com
RESTAURANTE DOCA 6Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazém 61350-353 LISBOAT: +351 213 957 905F: +351 213 957 894E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE ESTUFA REALCç. do Galvão - Jardim Botânico daAjuda1400 LISBOAT: +351 213 619 400F: +351 213 619 018E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE FAZ FIGURAR. do Paraíso, 15 B1100-396 LISBOAT: +351 218 868 981F: +351 218 822 103E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE PAP'AÇORDAR. da Atalaia,57/591200-037 LISBOAT: 213 464 811F: 213 423 765
RESTAURANTE PARISR. dos Sapateiros, 1261100-580 LISBOAT: +351 213 469 797F: +351 213 421 280E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE PORÃO DE SANTOSLg. de Santos, 11200-808 LISBOAT: +351 213 965 862F: +351 213 612 500
RESTAURANTE PRATU'SSolplay Hotel de ApartamentosR. Manuel da Silva Gaio, 22795-132 LINDA-A-VELHAT: +351 210 066 056T: +351 210 066 187W: www.solplay.pt/hotel
RESTAURANTE SACRAMENTOCç. Sacramento, 40/461200-241 LISBOAT: +351 213 420 572F: +351 213 420 567W: www.sacramentolisboa.com
RESTAURANTE SOL DOURADOR. Jardim do Regedor, 21/251150-183 LISBOAT: +351 213 472 570
RESTAURANTE TAVARESR. da Misericórdia, 35 R/C1200-270 LISBOAT: +351 213 421 112F: +351 213 478 125E: [email protected]: www.tavaresrico.pt
RESTAURANTE TERREIRO DO PAÇOPç. do Comércio1100-148 LISBOAT: +351 210 312 850F: +351 210 312 859E: [email protected]
RESTAURANTE TÍPICO OMADEIRENSECentro Comercial das Amoreiras,Lj. 3027T: +351 213 830 827E: [email protected]: www.omadeirense.pt
RESTAURANTE UAICais da Rocha de Conde de Óbidos- Armazém 1141350-352 LISBOAT: +351 213 900 111F: +351 213 860 880E: [email protected]: www.uai.pt
RESTAURANTE VALLE FLORPestana Palace HotelR. Jau, 541300-314 LISBOAT: +351 213 615 600F: +351 213 615 625E: [email protected]: www.pestana.com
RESTAURANTE VARANDABest Western Premier Hotel EduardoVIIAv. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 51069-114 LISBOAT: +351 213 568 815F: +351 213 568 833E: [email protected]: www.hoteleduardovii.pt
RESTAURANTE VARANDAZULEstádio do Restelo - Av. do Restelo1449-015 LISBOAT: +351 213 012 006F: +351 213 051 585E: [email protected]: www.varandazul.gastronomias.com
ROSA MÉXICOMarina de Cascais, lj. 27 A2750-000 CASCAIST: +351 214 818 010F: +351 213 975 390E: [email protected]: www.casamexico.pt
STEAKHOUSER. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa -Armazém 2551200-109 LISBOAT: +351 213 242 910F: +351 213 242 911E: [email protected]
TEMPLO DOS SABORESTv. do Conde de Soure, 151200-119 LISBOAT: +351 213 476 022E: [email protected]: www.templodossabores.com
TERTÚLIA DO TEJODoca de Santo Amaro, Pavilhão 41350-353 LISBOAT: +351 213 955 552F: +351 213 955 596
TRIPA FORRATv. das Mercês, 161200-269 LISBOAT: +351 213 433 151
40_41
THEY SMELL GOOD,THEY SMELL OF
PASTÉIS
FÁBRICA DOS PASTÉIS DE BELÉM
THEY SMELL GOOD,THEY SMELL OF
PASTÉIS
FÁBRICA DOS PASTÉIS DE BELÉM
WALKS
This walk begins at the Martim Moniz Metro station in Rua do Capelão (1) and
continues along Rua da Mouraria to the Church of Senhora da Saúde (2), with its
beautiful tiles and carved wood altar. The church is open for visits on afternoons or
whenever there is a mass. In the recently reconstructed Martim Moniz square (3) is
the singularly multi-racial shopping center called Centro Comercial da Mouraria.
Enter the picturesque Mouraria quarter by the steps called Escadinhas da Saúde (4)
and go on to Largo da Rosa, where there is a convent of the same name (5), and the
Church of S. Lourenço. Now go on to Largo da Achada (6) and the Church of S.
Cristóvão (7). Then take Calçada Marquês de Tancos, and you´ll come to the municipal
market called Mercado Municipal do Chão de Loureiro (8), with its painters’ studios
and splendid terrace. Take Rua da Costa do Castelo past the Chapitô circus school
(9) then take the S. Crispim stairs (10), down to Rua de São Mamede, with the Correio
Velho Palace (11) on the left. Take Travessa do Almada to the Church of Santa Maria
Madalena (12). From there, Rua da Sé takes you to Largo de Santo António (13) with
its taverns and the St. Anthony Museum. A little farther up is the Cathedral (14), built
in 1147, where you can visit the church, the treasury and the Roman ruins. Take Rua
Augusto Rosa up to the Santa Luzia belvedere (15) and enjoy the panoramic views
of the Tagus and the Alfama. But there is still St. George’s Castle (16) to be seen -
Centro de Interpretação da Cidade. You can reach it with the aid of the map via Rua
de S. Tiago. It is worth the climb. The finest views of the city and the river can be had
from its gardens and parapets. When you leave, turn left onto Rua do Chão da Feira,
to get to Largo Mor and the Church of Santa Luzia (17). Largo das Portas do Sol (18)
with its popular café terraces is an ideal place to take a rest and admire the views.
If you feel like continuing, take the stairs on the right down to Largo de S. Miguel,
then take the narrow Beco do Carneiro to the Church of Santo Estevão (19). Rua dos
Remédios will take you to Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (20) - Fado House and
Portuguese Guitar Museum. If it happens to be June, when the Festas Populares take
place, you’ll find the narrow streets and alleys festooned with lamps and decorations
and packed with revellers.
12_13
An aroma of cream and cinnamon
permeates the air and from even a
hundred metres away you can already
smell the proximity of one of the “sacred”
sites of world famous patisserie: having
resisted industrialisation, being sold or
franchised, the Pastéis de Belém are still
one of Lisboa’s best ambassadors.
Everyone falls for their sweet temptation.
In the area of Belém, a compulsory stopping place for
any tourist visiting Lisboa, there is a very special pastry
shop whose fame has spread throughout the world:
“the only, genuine bakery of Pastéis de Belém”. During
the day, every day of the year, around ten thousand
pastéis (a kind of custard tart), made completely by
hand, leave here, fresh and ready to eat.
According to the legend, just like all other traditional
Portuguese sweets, the Pastéis de Belém originated
from a receita conventual (convent recipe) from the
neighbouring Jerónimos Monastery. Following the
Liberal revolution in 1820, religious orders were
abolished in Portugal, and their convents and
monasteries nationalised.
The lay workers who lived in them, among them the
cooks, had to find employment elsewhere. A pastry
cook from the Jerónimos Monastery, owner of the
precious recipe, is said to have gone to work at a sugar
refinery in the surrounding neighbourhood, and within
a short time the “genuine Pastéis de Belém” were being
sold to the public.
They were an immediate success with the people of
Lisboa, who rushed to buy the new pastries. After that,
they became famous throughout the country. With
the emergence of mass tourism, in the mid 20th century,
the fame of the Pastéis de Belém spread across the
whole world, from New York to Japan. No wonder, that
with such success many have tried both in Portugal
and abroad to imitate this product. However, up until
now they haven’t succeeded
The first pastry cook, the one that came from the
Jerónimos Monastery, worked late into the night, in
secret. He shut himself in his room, not letting anyone
enter, while he mixed the ingredients in exactly the
right proportions, just as the monk who invented the
recipe had taught him. Fearing that the pastéis would
be copied, the owner of the pastry shop later patented
the recipe, which up until now has been kept secret.
At present, only three people have access to the magic
recipe – a pastry cook who has worked for the
establishment for half a century, and two trustworthy
assistants, who have also been there for decades. They
had to swear and oath and sign a declaration promising
never to teach the secret to anyone.
Today, an average of 10 thousand pastéis are made
daily. According to the cooks what distinguishes Pastéis
de Belém from normal pastéis de nata sold in other
establishments is, besides the recipe with the exact
proportions, the fact that they are prepared by hand
using top quality ingredients– flour, sugar, milk and
eggs.
The success of the Pastéis de Belém has been an object
of study for the most varied of reasons. From primary
school pupils who send handwritten letters asking
what ingredients are used in the recipe, to students of
Anthropology writing theses on this pastry. Pedro
Clarinha, manager of the house since 1984, has received
them all. He gives his assurance that he replies to all
queries and proof of his interest in the history of the
Pastéis de Belém is the fact that he collects, not just all
this work, but also newspaper cuttings, curiosities,
photographs and autographs of all the famous people
who have passed by there.
The process of making the pastéis is still done by hand.
The pastry is moulded into forms by a group of women.
They could have been replaced by machines were it
not for the concern to preserve this traditional method,
which is part of the establishment’s philosophy.
Besides this, the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém has
frequently found itself “against the current”, explains
Pedro Clarinha. Some years ago, when many cafés
where getting rid of their chairs in order to deter
customers who spend a whole afternoon with just a
bica (small coffee), the Fábrica decided to invest in
more tables – and with success. More recently, offers
to buy the business or franchise it have been increasing.
However, so far, although not rejecting the idea of
expanding the business, the owner has resisted such
proposals.
An aroma of cream and cinnamon
permeates the air and from even a
hundred metres away you can already
smell the proximity of one of the “sacred”
sites of world famous patisserie: having
resisted industrialisation, being sold or
franchised, the Pastéis de Belém are still
one of Lisboa’s best ambassadors.
Everyone falls for their sweet temptation.
In the area of Belém, a compulsory stopping place for
any tourist visiting Lisboa, there is a very special pastry
shop whose fame has spread throughout the world:
“the only, genuine bakery of Pastéis de Belém”. During
the day, every day of the year, around ten thousand
pastéis (a kind of custard tart), made completely by
hand, leave here, fresh and ready to eat.
According to the legend, just like all other traditional
Portuguese sweets, the Pastéis de Belém originated
from a receita conventual (convent recipe) from the
neighbouring Jerónimos Monastery. Following the
Liberal revolution in 1820, religious orders were
abolished in Portugal, and their convents and
monasteries nationalised.
The lay workers who lived in them, among them the
cooks, had to find employment elsewhere. A pastry
cook from the Jerónimos Monastery, owner of the
precious recipe, is said to have gone to work at a sugar
refinery in the surrounding neighbourhood, and within
a short time the “genuine Pastéis de Belém” were being
sold to the public.
They were an immediate success with the people of
Lisboa, who rushed to buy the new pastries. After that,
they became famous throughout the country. With
the emergence of mass tourism, in the mid 20th century,
the fame of the Pastéis de Belém spread across the
whole world, from New York to Japan. No wonder, that
with such success many have tried both in Portugal
and abroad to imitate this product. However, up until
now they haven’t succeeded
The first pastry cook, the one that came from the
Jerónimos Monastery, worked late into the night, in
secret. He shut himself in his room, not letting anyone
enter, while he mixed the ingredients in exactly the
right proportions, just as the monk who invented the
recipe had taught him. Fearing that the pastéis would
be copied, the owner of the pastry shop later patented
the recipe, which up until now has been kept secret.
At present, only three people have access to the magic
recipe – a pastry cook who has worked for the
establishment for half a century, and two trustworthy
assistants, who have also been there for decades. They
had to swear and oath and sign a declaration promising
never to teach the secret to anyone.
Today, an average of 10 thousand pastéis are made
daily. According to the cooks what distinguishes Pastéis
de Belém from normal pastéis de nata sold in other
establishments is, besides the recipe with the exact
proportions, the fact that they are prepared by hand
using top quality ingredients– flour, sugar, milk and
eggs.
The success of the Pastéis de Belém has been an object
of study for the most varied of reasons. From primary
school pupils who send handwritten letters asking
what ingredients are used in the recipe, to students of
Anthropology writing theses on this pastry. Pedro
Clarinha, manager of the house since 1984, has received
them all. He gives his assurance that he replies to all
queries and proof of his interest in the history of the
Pastéis de Belém is the fact that he collects, not just all
this work, but also newspaper cuttings, curiosities,
photographs and autographs of all the famous people
who have passed by there.
The process of making the pastéis is still done by hand.
The pastry is moulded into forms by a group of women.
They could have been replaced by machines were it
not for the concern to preserve this traditional method,
which is part of the establishment’s philosophy.
Besides this, the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém has
frequently found itself “against the current”, explains
Pedro Clarinha. Some years ago, when many cafés
where getting rid of their chairs in order to deter
customers who spend a whole afternoon with just a
bica (small coffee), the Fábrica decided to invest in
more tables – and with success. More recently, offers
to buy the business or franchise it have been increasing.
However, so far, although not rejecting the idea of
expanding the business, the owner has resisted such
proposals.
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UNIQUEIN THEWORLD
THE TILE MUSEUMStart by taking the Santa Justa Elevator (1) up to the ruins of the Carmo Convent (2),
destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This is the only remaining example of early gothic
architecture in Lisbon. Walk up Rua da Trindade, where you can see the impressive
façade of the Trindade Theatre (3), then continue down the road to visit the two
churches, Igreja do Loreto (4) and Igreja da Encarnação (5). Go down Rua Garrett to
the church called Igreja dos Mártires (6) , then go by Lisbon’s opera house, the São
Carlos Theatre (7), and visit the Chiado Museum (8), in Rua Serpa Pinto. Go down the
winding Calçada do Ferragial that takes you to the 17th cent. Corpo Santo Church
(9) then turn left onto Rua do Arsenal, leading to Praça do Município (10), and the
Lisbon Town Hall, built in 1774. Two blocks east lies one of Europe’s outstanding city
squares, the 18th cent. Praça do Comércio (11). From the SE corner of the square,
in front of the ferry terminal (12), where you can take a river tour, go east to the
Campo das Cebolas, where the odd Casa dos Bicos (13) stands. Now go back along
Rua da Alfândega, where you’ll find the ornate Manueline façade of the church of
Nossa Senhora da Conceição (14). Stop off for lunch, or a ‘bica’, a little cup of aromatic
black coffee, in the 200 year old Café Martinho d’Arcada, a favourite haunt of the
poet Fernando Pessoa, then pass under the great neo-classical archway called Arco
da Vitória (15), where the pedestrian mall, Rua Augusta (16) begins, and take in the
cosmopolitan buzz of one of Lisbon’s main shopping hubs. At the top is Praça D.
Pedro IV, the square known to Lisboners as Rossio. Turn right off the NE corner of
the square to the church of S. Domingos (17), founded in 1241, and reconstructed
after the 1755 earthquake. Turn back to where Portugal’s National Theatre, the neo-
classical Teatro Nacional D. Maria II (18), built 1842, stands at the north end of Rossio.
From here, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão takes you to the Palácio da Independência
(19) and Praça dos Restauradores (20). On the opposite side of this square are the
Palácio Foz (21), the neo-Manueline Rossio railway station, and the Glória Funicular
(22), which takes you up to the Bairro Alto, with its narrow streets and bohemian
nightlife. As an alternative to the funicular, go back down through Rossio (23) and
walk up Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, the streets that make up the earth of Chiado.
An old quarter dear to Lisboners, the Chiado (24) suffered a serious fire in 1988 and
has now been reconstructed following a master plan drawn up by leading Portuguese
architect, Álvaro Siza Vieira.
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14_15
Founded in 1509 by Queen Leonor, the Convent of
Madre de Deus was occupied by barefoot Franciscan
nuns from the order of Saint Clare. It is these premises,
on the east side of Lisbon, that today house the Tile
Museum.
The museum’s impressive display contains tiles,
ceramics, graphic material and tools. It is believed to
be the most extensive collection of tiles in the world,
at present totalling 7,300 inventoried pieces.
The tradition of the Portuguese tile is rooted in a strong
Arabic influence, the result of the occupation of the
territory between the 8th and 13th centuries.
The collection was initially exhibited at the National
Museum of Ancient Art, making up part of the ceramics
section.
At the beginning of the 1960’s this collection was
transferred to the Convent of Madre de Deus and
enlarged with additions from other museums and state
institutions.
The collection has been constantly enriched by
acquisitions and donations from private individuals
and institutions.
The Tile collection documents the important production
of tiles in Portugal from the 15th century up to the
present day.
Amongst its most outstanding pieces is the panel of
Nossa Senhora da Vida (Our Lady of Life), the oriental
style altar decoration, from the third quarter of the 17th
century, the complete set of tiles from the Hunting
Hall, circa 1680, panels from the Master’s Cycle, which
include the Cena Mitológico (Mythological Scene) by
Gabriel Del Barco, circa 1695, the monumental Vista de
Lisboa (View of Lisboa), circa 1700, A Fuga do Egipto
(the Flight from Egypt) by Oliveira Bernardes, circa 1730,
the series Vitórias de Alexandre, (Alexander’s Victories),
circa 1745, the series Vida de Cristo (Life of Christ), circa
1760, the panel Quatro Estações (Four Seasons) circa
1770, or the História do Chapeleiro António Joaquim
Carneiro (Story of the Hat Maker António Joaquim
Carneiro), circa 1800.
The 19th century is represented by an important section
of semi-industrially and industrially produced tiles from
the Fábricas (Factories) de Roseira, Viúva Lamego,
Santana and Constância in the region of Lisboa, and
the china factory, the Fábrica de Louça de Sacavém.
There are also examples from the Fábrica de Massarelos
in Porto, the Fábrica das Devesas from Gaia; and the
ceramics factory, the Fábrica de Cerãmica das Caldas
da Rainha.
Documenting the 20th century are works by Rafael
Bordalo Pinheiro, Raul Lino, Jorge Barradas, Maria Keil,
Querubim Lapa, Manuel Cargaleiro, Cecília de Sousa,
Eduardo Nery. Outstanding amongst these, are works
by several artists commissioned for the decoration of
the Lisbon Underground, and the work of contemporary
artists such as Luís Camacho, Bela Silva, Fernanda
Fragateiro or Ilda David.
Industrial production is represented by tiles from the
Fábrica de Louça de Sacavém, from the Fãbrica
Cerâmica Viúva Lamego and the Fábrica Lusitânia.
Amongst the collection of international tiles is an
important section on Hispano-Mouresque tiles which
were used in Portugal towards the end of the 15th and
beginning of the 16th century, an example of which is
the corda-seca (a technique in which the clay plate
was moulded with the drawings in relief) bearing King
Manuel’s coat of arms (who reigned from 1495 to 1521),
the group of Dutch tiles depicting single figures and
the panel A Lição de Dança, (the Dancing Lesson) by
Willem Van der Kloet, (1707), as well as the section of
Art Nouveau tiles produced in France, Belgium,
Germany and England from the beginning of the 20th
century.
There are also pieces by Arnold Zimmerman or Philipe
Barde representing examples of contemporary
production.
Perhaps its most spectacular piece is a gigantic panel of Lisboa seen from
the River Tagus. It depicts the city just a few years before the fateful day
of 1st November, 1755, when it was destroyed by an earthquake followed
by a giant tidal wave. From this panel you can recreate the story and see
what the city looked like before the dreadful event that, at the time,
shocked the whole of civilised Europe.
However, the Tile Museum, with its collection of over 7 thousand pieces,
has much more than this to show of a form of art which has become
one of Portugal’s most recognisable “hallmarks”.
Museu Nacional do AzulejoRua da Madre de Deus, 41900-312 LisboaTel.: 218 100 340
Tuesdays from 14h00 to 18h00Wednesdays to Sundays 10h00 to18h00Closed Mondays, Easter Sunday,1st January, 1st May and 25thDecember.
Entrance: 2.24 EurosFree on Sundays and publicholidays up to 14h00
Buses: 18, 42, 104, 105
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Filipe Figueiredo (Graciosa) shows, half seriously and
half jokingly, an X ray of his ankle on which you can
clearly see 8 screws. “It was completely broken. This
was how they put it back together”, he explains, in
relation to a riding accident which occurred two years
ago. “I don’t limp as much now, but two screws had to
remain in there, forever, and became part of the bone”.
It is on a radiantly sunny morning that the Director of
the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art receives us in
his small office, in one of the buildings adjacent to the
Queluz National Palace. “It was the most serious accident
I have ever had, over decades of riding, but I still had
my leg in a cast when I was back mounted on a horse”,
he says
Outside, trainers, grooms and riders are saddling the
horses, preparing them for another display of Haute
École.
Dressed up in Baroque costumes from the times of
King João V, in the mid 18th century, the riders are
completing the final touches to their horses. They speak
to their animals, mount up and move towards the
paddock for the warm ups.
At the top of the Glória Funicular (1) are the gardens and belvedere of S. Pedro de
Alcântara (2). Continue past them along Rua D. Pedro V until you come to the
Príncipe Real Gardens (3), under which there is a water cistern, built in 1864 that can
be visited on weekdays. Farther down the road are the museums of Natural History
and Science (4) and the Botanical Gardens (5). The streets Miguel Pais and Monte do
Carmo will take you to Rua Cecílio de Sousa, from which a flight of stairs (6), will take
you back up to the Príncipe Real Gardens. Cross the gardens and go down Rua do
Século, turning right at the bottom into Rua da Academia das Ciências, where the
Portuguese Academy of Science and Geological Museum are located (7). Now take
Rua de S. Marçal up to the romantic little square called Praça das Flores (8), where
some excellent restaurants are located. Go down Rua de S. Bento, where there are
a number of antique shops and, on the left hand side, Espaço por Timor (9), the
center created to support the rights of the people of Timor to independence and
their courageous resistance to the Indonesian occupation. At the end of the street
on the right is the São Bento Palace where the Portuguese Parliament sits (10).
Continue in the same direction down Av. D. Carlos I to the fountain called the Chafariz
Monumental da Esperança (11), by the architect Carlos Mardel, then take Rua do
Poço dos Negros and Calçada do Combro up to the Church of Santa Catarina (12)
and the magnificent belvedere of the same name (13). Ride the Bica funicular (14)
down to Rua de S. Paulo, and to the square, Largo de São Paulo (15), built in 1849,
with its church and fountain (16). In Travessa do Carvalho are the old baths known
as the Banhos de São Paulo and farther ahead, going west through Praça D. Luis I
(17), is the municipal market known as the Mercado Municipal de 24 de Julho (18),
built in 1876. There is an important public transport interface with bus, metro, tram
and ferry lines at Cais do Sodré (19) railway station, where the Cascais train line
begins. Try some charcoal-grilled fish along the attractive Passeio Ribeirinho (riverside
walk) (20), then climb Rua do Alecrim to Luis de Camões Square (21) and the Church
of S. Roque (22). Go into the Bairro Alto quarter (23) and sample its renowned
nightlife. You can hear genuine Fado and pass some enjoyable hours without any
worry about personal safety.
WALKS
16_17
The display lasts around an hour and involves eight to
ten pairs, led by Filipe Figueiredo. The sequence of
movements of horses and riders belong specifically to
the Portuguese School and are a form of dressage
related to the art of bullfighting on horseback, a unique
feature in the world and one that Portugal has
preserved.
The audience, especially its younger members, noisily
applauds the appearance of a rider just coming into
sight, a sign that the show is about to begin. The music,
which consists of extracts from Baroque composers,
fills the air and horses and riders advance in step to its
rhythm. Splendidly colourful, with the red of the jackets
contrasting with the deep greens of the magnificent
gardens and woodlands of the Queluz Palace, Filipe
Figueiredo’s team straightens itself, parades past and
makes a formal salute. With a moustache fashioned
according to the style of bygone eras, the head
horseman leads his mount through specific steps,
followed immediately by the other horses.
“The temperament of the Lusitano horse is ideal for
Haute École. They are docile animals but steady,
intelligent but creative”, Filipe Figueiredo explains to
us. “And each one has his own personality. There are
those that get nervous when they hear clapping, which
they have to get used to; and there are those that get
excited when they hear clapping, and perform even
better, true artists”.
The Lusitanos, which were on the verge of extinction
only decades ago, are today bred by the Portuguese
State at public stud farms. They are now highly sought
after and twice a year they are sold at auction. In
Portugal, private breeders have regained an interest in
rearing Lusitanos and just about all over the world,
especially in Brazil and the United States, this breed is
becoming increasingly popular.
Heir to a cultural heritage unique in the world, the
Portuguese school of Equestrian Art is definitely worth
a visit.
A JOURNEY TOTHE BAROQUE WITHTHE LUSITANOH O R S E
Every week, a display of horses in Haute
École (classical dressage) takes place in
the grandiose setting of the Queluz
Palace and Gardens. The star of the event
is the Lusitano, a horse which was on
the verge of extinction, but is now bred
and admired throughout the world.
AN ART WITH CENTURIES OF HISTORY AND TRADITION
A DISPLAYOF RHYTHM
ANDCOLOUR
At the old Royal Riding School, in the open air, dozens
of people, most of them children from neighbouring
schools and groups of tourists, are waiting impatiently
around the arena for the show to begin.
Every Wednesday, during spring and summer, at around
11h00 there is a classical dressage show. Training from
Mondays to Fridays, between 10h00 and 13h00, is open
to the public, free of charge.
There are several characteristics that are unique about
this riding school: for one thing, all the horses are
Lusitano thoroughbreds that come from the old Royal
Stud Farm of Alter (Alto Alentejo), founded in 1748 by
King João V. Over the centuries, this breed has evolved
through the influence of crossbreeding with horses
native to Lusitania (the ancient name for Portugal),
which were famous for their speed during the Roman
Empire, the neighbouring Andalusian horse and the
Arabian thoroughbred. The end product is an animal
which is not very large, yet versatile, intelligent and
resistant.
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Display of Equestrian ArtPortuguese School of EquestrianArtQueluz National PalaceFor more information:www.cavalonet.com/epae
From May to OctoberDisplays every Wednesday at11h00
Tickets: 9 euros, 50 percentdiscount for the over 65’s, free forchildren up to the age of 8.Training, during the whole year,from Mondays to Fridays, from09h30 to 13h00, at the QueluzNational Palace Gardens, entrancefree.
LONG REIGNSThrough training, the horse becomes docile and
acquires a slow gait which allows it to be lead at a walk.
Indications from the reigns and the crop are sufficient
for the Lusitano to perform the most difficult dressage
exercises when mounted.
SOLOPresentation of a mounted horse with three gaits –
walking, trotting, cantering
ARES ALTOSThe exercises which were carried out in hand are now
performed on a mounted horse. The ares altos are the
climax of the art of Baroque horsemanship.
PAS-DE-TROISDemonstration by three riders of the various
movements and figures in the three gaits.
QUADRILLEA group of eight to ten riders perform a kind of
equestrian ballet in perfect synchronisation, enthralling
the audience who often clap in time to the rhythm of
the movements.
THE FIGURESWork in hand – used for teaching Ares Altos (airs above
the ground). The preparatory exercise is the piaffe which
involves the horse trotting on the spot with a high
action of the legs. The exercises also include the capriole,
in which the horse leaps upwards with a vertical kick
of its hind legs, remaining momentarily in the air,
reminding one of a winged horse; the levade, in which
the horse rears up on its hind legs gracefully bending
its forelegs in the classic posture of many equestrian
statues; the courbette in which the horse jumps
forwards on its hind legs from the levade position;
finally, the piaffer nos pilões (piaffe on the pillars). The
old riding masters used the pilões (poles with two rings
in the centre of the arena, between which the horse
was held) in order to increase the horse’s concentration.
A JOURNEY TOTHE BAROQUE WITHTHE LUSITANOH O R S E
Begin your walk at the Estrela Gardens (Jardim da Estrela) (1) with their wrought iron
bandstand: Buses: 9, 27; Trams: 25, 28. Facing the gardens is the Estrela Basilica (Basílica
da Estrela) (2), in late baroque and neo-classical style. The four columns on the façade
are topped with statues representing Faith, Devotion, Gratitude and Generosity. The
relief behind is thought to be the work of Portugal’s foremost 18th cent. sculptor,
Machado de Castro. Take the streets Domingos Sequeira and Saraiva de Carvalho to
the square Praça São João Bosco and the Prazeres Cemetery (Cemitério dos Prazeres)
(3) and then, taking Rua Possidónio da Silva, go on to Tapada das Necessidades (4)
to see its excellent cactus gardens. Nearby is the Necessidades Palace (5), built in
the 18th cent. and now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. From the square in
front (6) you can pick out the 25 of April bridge, inaugurated in 1966, and the Christ
the King monument on the other side of the river. Note the bronze cross on a thorned
sphere in the 1747 fountain, and an obelisk in pink marble. Now go down Calçada
do Sacramento leading to the Alcântara quarter (7) and Praça da Armada (8), where
there are a number of good, low-priced restaurants and taverns. Continue your walk
along Calçada da Pampulha to Rua das Janelas Verdes: on one side is the Dr. José
Figueiredo square (9) with its great fountain, and on the other the National Museum
of Art (10). From the gardens (Jardim 9 de Abril) (11) beside it there are views over
the river and the Port of Lisbon. Overlooking the gardens is the Red Cross Palace,
the stairs leading of the gardens will take you down to Av. 24 de Julho. Cross the
avenue and the railway line alongside it then turn right on to Av. Brasília and follow
it to the Alcântara Dock (12) where you’ll find the Maritime Terminal (13) with its
great mural panels by the Portuguese modernist painter Almada Negreiros. Walk
through the bustling, cosmopolitan Santo Amaro Dock (14), packed with riverside
café terraces, bars and discos. Buses 14, 32, 43, 28 will take you back to the center.
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The National Republican Guard is
responsible for the security of the Belém
Palace, the President of Portugal’s official
residence. The guards on sentry duty
outside the Palace change over regularly,
according to military rules. However,
once a month there is a much bigger
and more elaborate ceremony.
All the members of the Guard (those
going off duty and those taking over),
the Bugles of the Infantry Regiment, the
Band of the Commander-General, a
Cavalry Platoon and the Cavalry Band.
The ceremony begins at 11h00, with the
lining up of the two guards in front of
the Palace, to the accompaniment of
music played by the Band. This is
followed by the “Salutation” between
the Guards and the “Handing over of the
Sentry Duty”, during which the
Portuguese National Anthem is played.
The Cavalry Platoon goes into the Palace,
accompanied by the Cavalry Band, now
playing different music. The Band and
the Bugles then carry out a ceremony of
sound and movement. This involves
different steps, both on foot and on
horseback and is called Brinco da Banda.
After this, they leave the Palace and make
their way back to the Cavalry Regiment
barracks, in the neighbouring area of
Ajuda.
After the “Final Salutation” between the
Guards, the ceremony ends with the exit
from the palace of the Guard going off
duty, which marches to the Jerónimos
Monastery, whilst the Guard taking over,
enters the palace, to the music of the
band, marking the beginning of their
shift.
One of the main attractions of this
ceremony is the performance of the GNR
Cavalry Band, the only one in the world
which plays music at a gallop. The riders,
besides being accomplished musicians,
also know how to ride a horse, and
coordinate its movements with the rest
of the group
COLOUR, MUSIC AND CEREMONYAT THE CHANGING OF THE GUARDOF THE PRESIDENTOF THE REPUBLICHorses, riders, standards, sparkling uniforms, gleaming helmets,
drums, cymbals and trumpets in a fusion of rhythm and ceremony.
The Changing of the Guards is a unique event in Lisboa and takes
place outside the Belém Palace on the third Sunday of each month,
at 11h00.
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ONE OF THE BIGGESTEUROPEAN
FESTIVALS
MARCHAS POPULARES
The most original parade, the best
music, the best choreography or visual
arrangement and the most original
lyrics are the subject of heated debate
between the rival neighbourhoods in
the months following the marchas
populares.
This western suburb has an enormous number of prime tourist sights and cultural
attractions. Bus: 14, 27, 29, 43, 49, 51. Tram: 15. Train: Belém station on the Cais do
Sodré – Cascais line. Begin at the Belém Palace (Palácio de Belém) (1), official residence
of the President of the Republic, and try one of the renowned Belém pastries in the
traditional pastry shop on the corner (2). Walk up Calçada do Galvão to the Tropical
Agricultural Garden-Museum (Jardim-Museu Agrícola Tropical) (3) and then go back
down to the Jeronimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) (4) and to the
Archaeological Museum (Museu de Arqueologia) (5). Visit the Gulbenkian Planetarium
(Planetário Gulbenkian) (6) and the Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha) (7). Take
a look in the spectacular Belém Cultural Center (Centro Cultural de Belém) (8),
designed by Italian architect Vittorio Gregotti and Portuguese architect Manuel
Salgado, and have lunch looking out over the Tagus and the Belém gardens (9). Cross
over to the riverfront using the pedestrian underpass and visit the Discoveries
Monument (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) (10). Take the elevator up to the top, enjoy
the panoramic views, and don’t miss the bird’s-eye view of the great Compass Rose
(Rosa dos Ventos) on the pavement below. Next walk west along the riverfront to
the Museum of Folk Art (Museu de Arte Popular) (11). Continuing in the same
direction, walk by the Bom Sucesso dock (Doca do Bom Sucesso) (12) until you come
to the famous Belém Tower (Torre de Belém) (13). After visiting it, continue past the
Bom Sucesso fort (Forte do Bom Sucesso) (14) next door and use the pedestrian
bridge to cross the train tracks and highway to Av. Torre de Belém (15), walk up it
to Rua de Pedrouços where you can catch a number 15 tram to Praça Afonso de
Albuquerque (16) and the Belem River Ferry Station (Estação Fluvial de Belém) (17).
A short walk east is the Electricity Museum (Museu da Electricidade) (18). After a visit
here, relax on one of the river front terraces. Buses for the center: 14, 28, 43, 49, 51.
WALKS
20_21
Lisboa is in a state of permanent street partying at the
beginning of Summer. The reason is the
commemoration of the Popular Saints – Saint Anthony,
Saint John and Saint Peter - on 13th ,24th and 29th
June, respectively. One of the high points of the street
celebrations are the Marchas Populares, a costumed
parade of local neighbourhood groups along the
Avenida da Liberdade.
They represent months and months of work, of
rehearsals, involving thousands of people, of all ages
and social groups, whose aim is to present to the public,
the best dances, the best costumes, the most
spectacular arrangement, sung and danced to the
rhythm of a musical genre – the march - a typical form
of song for Lisboa and the alfacinhas, the name by
which its inhabitants are known. The sea, fishing, fado,
traditional trades, political satire, arches and vases of
flowers, the ephemeral manjerico (a kind of basil which
is one of the traditions of the festival) with its distinctive
and unforgettable smell, are themes which are always
present in the parade. Each entry is judged by a jury
and the results of the prizes for the most original parade,
the best music, the best choreography or visual
arrangement, the most original lyrics are the subject
of heated debate between the rival neighbourhoods
in the months following the marchas populares.
The major champions in the category of Best March,
have been the neighbourhoods of the Alfama (which
has won 12 times), Madragoa (9 times) and Bica (7
times). However, Graça, Ajuda, Carnide, Bela Flor,
Mouraria, Lumiar, Bairro Alto, Olivais, Campolide, S.
Vicente, Marvila, Benfica, Castelo, Alto do Pina, Alcântara,
Beato and the groups representing the Markets, all put
up some fierce competition. The Children’s March
organised by the Voz do Operário, although not part
of the competition, is one of the highlights of the
parade, going by the applause of the crowds lined up
along the Avenida da Liberdade.
The judging of the parade takes place at the Atlantic
Pavilion, at the Park of Nations.
The Marchas Populares began in 1932 and the Popular
Saints Celebrations are ranked 19th amongst the 50
best European festivals, coming just after such well
known European events as the Aalborg Carnaval, in
Denmark and the Tomatina (Tomato Festival) in Spain,
on a list headed by the Fallas de Valência.
BELÉM
ELEVATOR /FUNICULAR
METRO
FERRY
TRAIN
TRAM
CHURCH
BELVEDERE
STEPS
TRAM LINE
30_31
COMPANHIA NACIONAL DE BAILADO
Set up in 1977, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado is
Portugal’s leading dance company. Throughout its 30
years of existence, it has been responsible for the first
national productions of classical ballets such as Swan
Lake, Romeo and Juliet, Giselle, The Firebird, The Nut
Cracker Suite and The Consecration of Spring. It has
also presented works by modern and contemporary
creators such as Balanchine, Lifar, Limon, Forsythe,
Keersmaeker, amongst others. In relation to Portuguese
choreographers, its repertory includes works by
Armando Jorge, Fernando Lima, Carlos Trincheiras and
Olga Roriz.
Besides its regular tours in Portugal, the Companhia
Nacional de Bailado has performed in Spain, France,
Switzerland, Germany, Brazil and China.
With its Turkish artistic director, Mehmet Balkan, the
CNB and its corps of 80 ballerinas has worked regularly
with the Portuguese Symphonic Orchestra, the Lisboa
Metropolitan Orchestra and the Porto National
Orchestra. It is based at the Camões Theatre at the Park
of Nations.
In May and June, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado
performed A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The Company
then began a national tour of the ballet, taking it to
Coimbra, Porto, Évora, Alcobaça, Figueira da Foz, Faro,
Serpa and Aveiro.
In November, when it returns to Lisbon, it will present
Dançar (Dance) a work by Hans von Manen, and in
December, D. Quixote.
CLASSICALANDMODERNBALLET
Teatro CamõesPasseio de NeptunoPark of NationsTel.: 21 892 36 70
22_23
Every year, the people of Lisboa greet
the beginning of Summer by “decreeing”
the opening of the sardine season. Taking
advantage of the warm nights, ideal for
eating out in the open-air, the alfacinhas
(an affectionate term for natives of Lisboa,
meaning baby lettuces) commemorate
the 13th June, the day of their patron
saint, Saint Anthony, with a series of
initiatives in which grilled sardines are
an essential feature.
The marchas populares, a costumed
p a r a d e o f t h e t r a d i t i o n a l
neighbourhoods down the Avenida da
Liberdade, arraiais (street parties) at the
Castelo, Graça, Mouraria and the Alfama,
and the Lisboa nights buzzing with light,
colour and music.
From the very old to the very young,
from the most traditional to the most
fashionable, at this time of year all the
alfacinhas have one thing in common,
which brings them all together in the
same space in cheerful interaction –
grilled sardines.
Accompanied by red wine or beer, eaten
with boiled potatoes moistened with
olive oil and a salad of lettuce, tomatoes
and peppers, the sardines are grilled and
eaten hot, preferably on a piece of bread,
which absorbs the oil. The final treat is
to eat the piece of bread, which has been
soaked with the juice of ten, twelve or
even more sardines…. A typical
Mediterranean diet.
Where can you eat this typical Lisboa
dish? In hundreds of places, from the
more classical restaurants, in modern
areas, to the local taverns, in the old
neighbourhoods of the city. If you can,
try eating the sardines in the open air –
this is more in line with the spirit of the
dish, and the strong smell (possibly the
only inconvenience) evaporates more
rapidly.
FROM SARDINES…
… TO CHESTNUTSAnother of Lisboa’s urban rituals is the
celebration of Saint Martin’s day, on 11th
November. According to tradition, at this
time of year, chestnuts are roasted and
the new wine tasted. As a sign that winter
has arrived, the city fills up with street
vendors selling roast chestnuts. The white
smoke billowing from the fire, the strong
but pleasant smell, the crackling of the
salt thrown on to the chestnuts, all help
to warm the souls of passers by, who
interrupt their hurried pace to buy a
dozen, wrapped up in a typical cone
made of newspaper. “Hot and tasty…
Hot and tasty”, cry the street vendors.
Roast chestnuts, just like sardines, have
to be eaten hot from the coals.
According to tradition, the festas de São
Martinho (Saint Martin’s celebrations),
are rooted in pagan times. They include
the roasting of chestnuts, the sampling
of the wine in the wine cellars (of which
the água-pé, a wine lower in alcohol, is
the preferred choice for the occasion)
and jumping over the bonfire. This is a
social occasion for all generations and it
is called the magusto, the time of rest,
after the intense harvest period for the
wine in September and October.
Before the advent of the potato in
Europe, which spread to its far corners
(17th century), the chestnut was part of
the essential diet, especially in the
countryside. Besides roasting, it can be
boiled, puréed, used in soups, sweets
etc.
How to prepare chestnutsfor roasting?
Wet them (this helps the salt to stick
to them). Make a cut in each of them.
Add the salt. Add some herbs (this
increases the flavour). Place them in
the fire (or on a tray in the oven, or
on a grill).
A quarter of an hour later, the
chestnuts will be roasted.
JOÃO LAGOS
Organiser of sports events
“The magnificent lightof Lisboa”Lisboa is my city, where I was born and
which I learned to explore and love from
my childhood. At that time, it was a
much calmer city than it is today, with
the trams travelling up and down the
hills, and the boys playing football out
on the street, or on some terrace,
chasing after a cloth ball, which didn’t
bounce as much and was easier to
control. I owe my love of sport to Lisboa
because that’s where it all began.
Today the city has grown, modernised
itself, but the light has remained
unaltered. The magnificent light of
Lisboa, on the rooftops and the pale
coloured houses, the marvellous
riverside and the city which stretches
down to the edge of the Tagus, are all
what make Lisboa so unique and
unrepeatable.
The whole city faces towards the river,
to the south, and at midday, it is filled
with light, giving it a joyful air, which
warms the houses and their inhabitants.
Lisboa is today, as it always has been, a
gentle, agreeable city, enjoyable to walk
around, whether it be through the
streets of the old neighbourhoods which
meander up the hills, or along the
modern riverside area, where we can
find a vast array of bars, restaurants and
shops, ready to satisfy any tastes and
any budgets. I confess that this is my
favourite area of Lisboa, because of the
light, because of the wide-open views,
and it’s here that I would like to take
you, the reader, when you come to visit
our city.
The Belém area/ the Jerónimos
Monastery: There is certainly a lot to see
at the Jerónimos Monastery, which any
guidebook can tell you about much
better than I can. But, walk towards
Belém (even before the famous Pastéis
de Belém, that you absolutely cannot
miss) and explore the Tropical Gardens.
These are beautiful, spacious and
extremely quiet. Leaving them, go down
towards the river, crossing the Praça do
Império on foot, and you will find an
underpass that brings you out directly
in front of the Monument to the
Discoveries. This monument, along with
the Tower of Belém, definitely deserves
a visit and you will find detailed
descriptions in all the guidebooks.
However, you should also know that
there is a great restaurant just 2 steps
away, which is the Vela Latina. If you
can, choose the restaurant section and
not the terrace, otherwise you will have
your back to the river. The menu
certainly has excellent fresh fish cooked
to suit your choice and neither will you
remain indifferent to the wine list.
Having eaten, return by the pedestrian
footbridge and visit the Belém Cultural
Centre which stages some of the best
cultural events that Europe has to offer.
Architecturally, the building is very
interesting and its contents are very
varied. There is an excellent view of the
river from the esplanade. There are also
various options for shopping and eating.
Continuing on our journey: just two
steps away from the same place is the
Maritime Museum, which has a lot to
tell about the Portuguese and the sea.
After that, the Planetarium, an
extraordinary display and a chance for
a rest in a comfortable chair looking at
the night sky of Lisboa.
Imagining that you will want to go out
on this particular night, I have some
more suggestions: head along the
riverfront, but take something warm
because the night can be chilly.
In Santa Apolónia there is the restaurant
Bica do Sapato, which will certainly
exceed your expectations: ask your hotel
to reserve you a decent table so you
won’t run the risk of having to eat late.
If you feel like dancing you have Lux just
nearby. Getting in might seem a bit
restrictive but it’s for your own comfort.
Dress up in your best “fashion style” and
they’ll certainly let you in.
If you prefer something more local, you
have the Docas where, bar after bar,
restaurant after restaurant, will guarantee
you a fun and a well-spent night.
If you can last the pace until dawn, I
leave you with two final suggestions:
watch the sun come up from the
Adamastor gardens in the Santa Catarina
neighbourhood or from the Portas do
Sol, near the Castle, and you will
understand what I mean about the light
of Lisboa.
Welcome to my city!
MY LISBOA
28_29
LISBOA’S DESIGNBIENNIAL
EXPERIMENTADESIGNTHE CITY’S LEADING CULTURAL EVENT
The fourth edition of Experimentadesign takes place from the
15th September to the 30th October in Lisboa. This is the
most recent biennial of European design that in just seven
years has become the biggest, regular, cultural event in
Portugal, earning worldwide recognition.
The 2005 edition of Experimentadesign, once again
working in partnership with the Lisboa Municipal
Council and with the support of the Portuguese Ministry
of Culture, is centred around the theme “The Medium
is the Matter”.
According to the organisers, this year’s theme completes
a cycle. In 2001, the biennial focused on “Modus
Operandi”, reflecting an interest in specific ways of
producing culture in the different areas of design, art
and architecture. In 2003, the subject for reflection was
“Beyond Consumption” and was related to the position
of the consumer, spectator and user. Now, “The Medium
is the Matter” will focus on the medium and the
materials used for transmission in the stage between
creator and receiver. The discussion will centre on the
means of communication and communicative objects
– a realm where sometimes the matter seems less
important than the message it conveys, and in which
the interaction between those who create and those
who receive becomes the actual product.
This marked the discovery of the basic principles of
gnomonics (from the Greek gnomon, the pointer, which
casts the shadow). Gnomonics is the science which
studies ways of measuring time by using the Sun. Man
was soon replaced by a stick in the ground, and the
movement of the shadow led to the idea of the first
“dial”. Combining the astrological observation of the
skies (for religious motives) with the first rudiments of
spatial direction – East, West, North, South - the religious
elite constructed carefully positioned megalithic
structures in many parts of the world. Stonehenge is
the most famous example of these stone circles.
However, many more of this species of giant sundial
exist throughout Europe, Portugal included, stretching
as far as the Atlantic, and at certain times of the year
they still mark the time of solstices and equinoxes.
Gnomonics was first developed by the Chaldeans, then
the Greeks and later the Romans. The first non-
megalithic sundials arrived in the territory that is
Portugal today through the Roman occupation (218
BC. – 409 AD.) and examples of these are still being
found. With the Middle Ages and the occupation of
the Iberian Peninsular by invaders coming from the
north, gnomonics , along with many other areas of
knowledge, disappeared. With the Arab occupation
which followed, it was still not used. Only when the
Christian forces began to reconquer the territory, with
the help of the religious orders, particularly the
Benedictines, did gnomonics enjoy a renaissance. In
the early days of the Portuguese expansion, gnomonics
was very much used in the art of navigating, although
it wasn’t able to provide the answer to the principle
question – the discovery of the longitude at sea (which
was only resolved through mechanical watches). But,
still today, in Portuguese museums (the Maritime
Museum, in the area of Belém, is one of them), one can
find many portable sundials. These are usually finely
carved in ivory and capable of providing the time in
Paris or Rome, London, Hamburg or Lisboa.
FOLLOWINGTHE SHADOWOF
SUNDIALS IN LISBOA
However, it was during the Baroque period, that sundials
enjoyed a surge in popularity – with the money from
gold from Brazil, the monarch at the time, King João V,
furnished almost all the monasteries and convents in
Portugal with sundials. Moreover, the nobility ordered
beautiful sundials for their palaces and estates. Most
of these have already been removed from their original
sites, but others have remained in tact.
There are vertical, horizontal and equatorial sundials
and sundials for solstices, or sundials that incorporate
all of these. Lisboa also has sundials in public places.
We would like to challenge all those visiting the city to
discover them. They are usually very beautiful pieces,
which often go unnoticed in an age in which time
rushes by and there isn’t enough of it to appreciate the
evolution of the shadow of the Sun… Have you ever
noticed that the Sé de Lisboa (Lisboa Cathedral) has a
sundial?
Above, on the opposite page, are some examples of
Lisboa’s gnomonics. These are just a few of them, but
there are others out there waiting for you.
TIME
24_25
Since 1999, Experimentadesign has been building an
international platform in Lisboa. This has been geared
towards reflection and experimentation, as well as
raising awareness of the importance of design in it its
many different forms, not only within the context of
Portuguese society, but also internationally.
Design as a creative activity, responsible for producing
the most adequate responses to the needs of
contemporary society has been Experimentadesign’s
focus of attention. The economic, ecological,
technological, sociological aspects of design, within
the specialised areas of interior design, architecture,
photography, new media, dance, visual arts, cinema,
fashion design and web design, will once again be the
subject of discussion as part of the creative process of
the Lisboa Biennial.
The week of the 15th to 18th September, which
inaugurates Experimentadesign 2005, will be an
authentic whirlwind of events, from exhibitions to
conferences, in which the various creative disciplines
will be represented by guests from all over the world.
The exhibitions “Catalysts!”, “My World, New Crafts”,
“S’Cool Ibérica”, “Architecture and Design of Portugal
1990-2004” and “Casa Portuguesa” (Portuguese House),
among others, will be accompanied by the series,
Conferences of Lisboa, in which specialists and
practitioners from the international arena of design
and the various disciplines included within the Biennial
will speak and participate in debates. These will take
place in the Belém Cultural Centre and at the Palácio
Pombal (Chiado).
As usual, the Biennial with have a Lounging Space at
the Palácio de Santa Catarina. This will be open during
the 45 days of Experimentadesign, and will provide a
place for the general public to get information, enjoy
a drink at the bar and buy publications and
merchandising goods.
The 2003 Biennial had around 150 thousand visitors,
almost double the number in 2001 and ten times that
of the 1999 edition. It is expected that the
Experimentadesign 2005 will beat new records in public
attendance.
For further details:
www.experimentadesign.pt.
“The most recent biennial of European design has
received world recognition, thanks to the extreme
professionalism of its organisers and creators […] As a
unique regular event in the field of theoretical reflection
on design, Experimenta has already assumed a crucial
role in discovering new forms of repositioning the
culture of design as a point of strategic balance between
economic capacity and cultural identity”.
IN MODEM – THE INTERNATIONAL DESIGN REFERENCE
GUIDE (PARIS), 2003
“[…] it has managed to establish something like a
private centre for design. It is completely independent
and promotes national design both in cultural terms,
as well as in economic terms. In short, it does exactly
what the 16 German design centres do. But with one
fundamental difference: it is much more successful”.
IN FORM (GERMANY), Jan/Feb 2004
Text: Fernando Correia de Oliveira
Photos: Jorge Correia Santos
The first natural rhythm that Man became aware of was
the sequence of day into night. He then began to
appreciate the more subtle rhythms of nature with the
perceptible changes of the seasons. By observing its
movement, primitive man understood that sometimes
the Sun made a higher and sometimes a lower curve
on the horizon, from East to West. With the emergence
of Agriculture, and the settling of humans in one place,
primitive societies developed a more palpable
relationship with time – imitating the rhythms of nature.
There was a period for sowing seed, a period of waiting
for the plants to grow, a period for gathering or
harvesting the produce, a period of rest for all nature,
when it appeared to have died, only to surge to life
again. Through variations in the height of the Sun and
the changes of the seasons, Man was able to understand
the period of the year. Moreover, a certain class, the
elite who observed the sky and guarded this knowledge,
began to work out a calendar. This became an
instrument of power, whatever the society or the times.
In order to measure the time of one day, almost
instinctively, man began measuring his own shadow
cast on the ground. When the Sun reached its highest
point – the zenith of a certain place – the shadow was
shorter, expanding and diminishing before and after,
respectively.
RUA DE CAMPOLIDE, PRIVATE HOUSE AMOREIRAS, ANADIA PALACE AMOREIRAS, MÃE DE ÁGUA SÃO SEBASTIÃO DA PEDREIRA, CHURCH OF SÃO SEBASTIÃO DA PEDREIRA
26_27
With the wind in your hair, enjoy the agility of a vehicle
that can dodge just about any traffic jam. Moving at its
own pace, the sidecar is a way of travelling around
Lisboa and its surroundings. From the top of the hills
to the bottom of the valleys. From the banks of the
Tagus to the north flank of the city, along the wide
avenues and the narrow streets of the old
neighbourhoods. Through the mountains of Sintra or
of Arrábida. Stopping your sidecar where you want to,
for a meal, to take some photographs or to watch a
romantic sunset…
A drive around Lisboa, along the Estoril Coast or through
the Mountains of Sintra and Arrábida, is what Sidecar
Touring Co proposes. A journey reliving the 40’s, when
motorbikes and sidecars were at the peak of their
popularity. Without any particular hurry and at your
own pace, the driver can take you through the most
famous streets of the city, stopping when and where
you want to in order to enjoy the best that Lisboa can
offer.
If you happen to be a nature lover, however, then you
can roll along the Estoril Coast, towards the Sintra
Mountains, in a replica of the mythical Second World
War sidecar, the BMW R71, or in a model from a more
recent era. There you can feel the breezes and scents
of century-old roads, culminating in the town of Sintra.
Besides the various standard tours that STC has to offer,
there are also trips especially designed for children
from the age of 7, upwards. These include visits to the
Oceanarium, the Zoo or the Toy Museum.
This is the ideal way of travelling around, without the
usual sight restrictions. Sidecars are also very popular
with people who suffer from problems with physical
mobility, who can enjoy a discount of 20%.
For more information, visit www.sidecartouring.co.pt
or tel. 963 965 105.
NEWHOTEL IN
CHIADO
Bairro Alto HotelPraça Luís de Camões, nº 81200-243 LisboaTel.: (351) 21 340 8222e-mail:[email protected]:www.bairroaltohotel.com
A DIFFERENT WAY OF GETTING TO KNOW LISBOA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
ONBOARD A
SIDECAR
The most recent “boutique” hotel has just opened in
the heart of the historic, cultural and commercial centre
of Lisboa. This is the Bairro Alto Hotel, a building which
has preserved its classical Portuguese facade. It has 55
rooms and suites, equipped with the latest technology
(access to the Internet, HI-FI system, TV with LCD/DVD).
The hotel also has the Restaurant Flores (inspired by
Romanticism), the Café Bar Garrett, a fitness room,
underground car park and excellent access served by
trams, buses and the underground.
In only a very short time, a dynamic team
of young designers and entrepreneurs
have established a vast universe of
Portuguese products and concepts,
under the umbrella label, “Moda Lisboa”.
What began 12 years ago as a fashion
show, has turned into a galaxy of events,
support for artists and the exportation
of the image of a modern and
cosmopolitan Portugal.
Aforest-Design, Alexandra Moura,
Alves/Gonçalves, Ana Salazar, Anabela
Baldaque, Cheyenne, Dino Alves, José
António Tenente, Katty Xiomara, Lanidor,
Lidija Kolovrat, Lion of Porches, Luís
Buchino, Maria Gambina, Miguel Vieira,
Nuno Baltazar, Osvaldo Martins, Pedro
Mourão, Ricardo Dourado and Story
Tailors are all designers sponsored by
Moda Lisboa. Information about them
c a n b e f o u n d o n t h e s i t e
www.modalisboa.pt.
On the site, tourists can access
information, which includes much more
than just fashion. In the Design section,
there are pieces by Fernando Brízio,
Marco Sousa Santos, Miguel Vieira
Baptista and Ricardo Mealha/Ana Cunha.
Portuguese products, from china to
soaps, through to glass, cork and cutlery
are also connected to this creative
national universe.
In art, names such as Ana Jotta, Joana
Vasconcelos or Noé Sendas display their
most recent work. The site also houses
the more traditional handicrafts,
alongside the very latest creations in this
area – Aliança Artesanal, Cecília Povoas
and Santos Ofícios are suggestions for
those wanting to acquire something of
the spirit of Portugal.
The label is gaining recognition
internationally and has already carried
out initiatives promoting Portuguese
fashion and design in Madrid, Paris,
London, Milan, Tokyo and New York. This
October it celebrates its 25th edition.
MODA LISBOA
A WORLDAT THE REACH OF A CLICK
In the last decade, two areas in Lisboa have
begun “specialising” in cutting edge fashion
and design shops. The Bairro Alto/Chiado
area and Santos, near the river. From small
shops to larger stores, in a young and
cosmopolitan environment, this is where
the showcase for Portuguese creativity can
be found. It’s also in these areas that you
can find most of Lisboa’s cyber cafés. In
Santos, for example, the Fundação
Portuguesa das Comunicações (Rua do
Instituto Industrial, 15) has a Multimedia
Centre, where any visitor can easily access
the site, Moda Lisboa.
With the comfort of the net, a visit to the
site Moda Lisboa opens up a world of
creativity, and gives you some suggestions
for the best you can buy and the most
genuine in terms of Portuguese creativity.
Click onto www.modalisboa.pt and give
yourself a pleasant surprise.
FÁTIMA LOPES LENA AIRES
