8

NASHVILLE SHOPPING

As Nashville’s infrastructure and lodging have gotten a recent facelift, so has its shopping scene. In many neighborhoods, you’ll find everything from designer

goods and thrift scores to locally made treats and unique souvenirs. And if, for some reason, cowboy boots are on your agenda, you’ll find some of those, too (though I do feel it’s my duty to tell you that you’re not officially required to buy a pair while you’re here, no matter what the Boot Barn says).

As in most Southern cities, the shopping scene in Nashville is spread out. Downtown is packed with souvenir shops that mostly all peddle the same thing: boots, buckles, cowboy hats, shot glasses, T-shirts, and Nashville-style memorabilia. (Notice I say “Nashville-style” as many of these guitar picks and keychains are made over-seas.) If you’re looking for national retailers or department stores, you’ll find those in the suburbs. If you want to get a sense of the culture and grab a few souvenirs, you’ll find locally owned shops in neighborhoods all over town: East Nashville, 12South, Edgehill, Hillsboro Village, the Gulch. Store hours vary, but most businesses in Nashville are open daily from 9 or 10am to 6 or 7pm, with some exceptions on Sunday. Check for hours online before heading out. If your goal is to spend a whole day shopping in one place, there are plenty of new (or newly updated) shopping centers on offer, as well as a few key streets for retail therapy.

MALLS, CENTERS & STREETS12South For my money, 12South is better than any big retail outlet if you want to do some shopping without wasting a whole day in a mall. Check out denim goods at Emerson Grace, try on sparkly things at Judith Bright handmade jewelry, and pop into White’s Mercantile for a modern-day general store experience. The area is also home to Reese Witherspoon’s preppy, pretty, and affordable clothing store, Draper James, as well as Imogene + Wil-lie custom denim (p. 143). Bonus: This area also has a great dining scene, so hit up Josephine, Epice, Urban Grub, or Frothy Monkey between shops. 12th Ave. S., between Kirkwood and Linden aves.

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DOWNTOWNThe Arts Company 28Ernest Tubb Record Shop 24French’s Shoes and Boots 26Goo Goo Cluster 25Hatch Show Print 23Julia Martin Gallery 20Keep Shop 27Mary Hong Gallery 31The Peanut Shop 30The Rymer Gallery 29Third Man Records 21Uncommon James 22

EAST NASHVILLEApple & Oak 48Anaconda Vintage 50Art & Invention Gallery 43Candle Bar 39Coutelier Nashville 40Grimey’s New & Preloved Music 51Fairytales Bookstore & More 42Fanny’s House of Music 41Hail, Dark Aesthetics 49Lemon Laine 47Olive & Sinclair Chocolate Co. 46Porter Road Butcher 45The Shine Project 44

GERMANTOWNAlexis + Bolt 36Batch Nashville 32Lazzaroli Pasta 37Nashville Farmers’ Market 33Nisolo 34Peter Nappi 38Poppy & Monroe 35

12SOUTH& HILLSBORO VILLAGECeri Hoover Handbags 14Christie Cookie 16Halcyon Bike Shop 15Hey Rooster General Store 19Imogene + Willie 17Posh Boutique 18

WEST NASHVILLEABLE 5Bare Bones 6The Great Escape 4Green Door Gourmet 1McKay’s 2McPherson’s 3Rhino Booksellers 8Thistle Farms 7

GREEN HILLSBilly Reid 10Dillard’s 13Levy’s 11Macy’s 13Nordstrom 13Oak Hall 9Parnassus Books 12

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Pearl St.

Union St.

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Church St.

Peabody St.

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DOWNTOWNThe Arts Company 28Ernest Tubb Record Shop 24French’s Shoes and Boots 26Goo Goo Cluster 25Hatch Show Print 23Julia Martin Gallery 20Keep Shop 27Mary Hong Gallery 31The Peanut Shop 30The Rymer Gallery 29Third Man Records 21Uncommon James 22

EAST NASHVILLEApple & Oak 48Anaconda Vintage 50Art & Invention Gallery 43Candle Bar 39Coutelier Nashville 40Grimey’s New & Preloved Music 51Fairytales Bookstore & More 42Fanny’s House of Music 41Hail, Dark Aesthetics 49Lemon Laine 47Olive & Sinclair Chocolate Co. 46Porter Road Butcher 45The Shine Project 44

GERMANTOWNAlexis + Bolt 36Batch Nashville 32Lazzaroli Pasta 37Nashville Farmers’ Market 33Nisolo 34Peter Nappi 38Poppy & Monroe 35

12SOUTH& HILLSBORO VILLAGECeri Hoover Handbags 14Christie Cookie 16Halcyon Bike Shop 15Hey Rooster General Store 19Imogene + Willie 17Posh Boutique 18

WEST NASHVILLEABLE 5Bare Bones 6The Great Escape 4Green Door Gourmet 1McKay’s 2McPherson’s 3Rhino Booksellers 8Thistle Farms 7

GREEN HILLSBilly Reid 10Dillard’s 13Levy’s 11Macy’s 13Nordstrom 13Oak Hall 9Parnassus Books 12

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8Cool Springs Galleria At least 20 minutes south of Nashville is Cool Springs, a shopping area anchored by this mall. It’s got all the usual suspects—an Apple store, the Cheesecake Factory, H&M, Macy’s, Dillard’s—but if you’re looking for national chain stores, a quick online search may yield locations closer to town. 1800 Galleria Blvd.  615/771-2050. www.coolspringsgalleria.com.

Edgehill Village Centrally located between 12South and the Gulch, Edgehill is another area that pulls double-duty as a shopping, dining, and drinking destination. Eight brick buildings from the 1920s have been restored and today house restaurants and shops. Grab a bite at Taco Mamacita, Barce-lona, Legato Gelato, or Bella Napoli pizza, and then check out retail options including national brands such as Warby Parker, Alton Lane, and J. Crew Men’s Shop. Add the latter to Chubbies comfortable swimwear store and the dude-friendly Rudy’s Barbershop, and you might have the most man-friendly shopping center in town. Tip: Stop by Old Glory (p. 125) for happy hour; it’s one of the best bars in town. 1201 Villa Place. www.edgehillvillage.com.

Factory at Franklin This suburban retail and entertainment com-plex is one of the rare shopping venues listed on the National Register of His-toric Places. Restaurants and stores showcase local culture and artisan goods that range from fine art and record shops to a farmers market and meat butcher. Be sure to grab a poke bowl from Funk Seoul Brother; it’s one of the freshest and most flavorful lunches in town. 230 Franklin Rd. www.factoryatfranklin.com.

The Gulch The most convenient shopping to downtown is the Gulch. With national retailers such as Urban Outfitters, LOFT, and Lucchese and Frye boot stores, the Gulch looks cookie-cutter but offers some unique shopping experiences. For clothing, there is Blush Boutique, Two Old Hippies, e.Allen, Parrish, and Ruckle & Rye. There are also excellent food options including Sunda (sushi), Otaku Ramen, 404 Kitchen, Emmy Squared, and fresh chains like Taziki’s Mediterranean Cafe. The neighborhood offers free parking for 1 hour. 11th Ave. S. to Demonbreun.  615/859-3456. www.explorethegulch.com.

Hill Center Green Hills Located within a 5-minute walk of the Mall at Green Hills, this is your best bet for upscale shops, unique boutiques, and a respectable lunch. Clothing, jewelry, and home-decor stores include chains like Anthropologie, Pottery Barn, West Elm, Bonobos, and Cosmetic

The biggest draw of the Cool Springs Galleria for parents of young girls will be the American Girl Store and Bistro, which is the only location in Tennessee. While childless people will mock the prices and the concept—$15 for a doll facial?!—kids will go nuts for the salon,

store, and special events, which include private parties, crafting classes, and sea-sonal visits from Santa. Be sure to book events early (www.americangirl.com/retail/nashville) because they often sell out (yes, seriously).

She was an American Girl (Doll)

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Market, but it’s the smaller shops where you can find something special: Billy Reid apparel (p. 143) for the sophisticated yet comfortable Southerner; Oak Hall clothing (p. 143) for those who like to keep things traditional; and the cutting-edge H. Audrey, owned by Holly Williams, daughter of Hank Jr. There is also the only Tennessee location of Shake Shack, the habit-forming burger chain out of New York. Tip: Nashville’s West Elm also has a local section where you can find handmade items by companies such as Holler Design, a woodworking company that uses local lumber and creates furniture out of a workshop on a family dairy farm. 4015–4031 Hillsboro Pike.   615/252-8101. www.hillcentergreenhills.com.

The Mall at Green Hills If you’re looking for luxury at all costs, the Mall at Green Hills is where you want to be. Despite having to brave traffic on Hillsboro Pike and in the mall parking lot at every hour of every day, there are some vendors here that you won’t find other places, including Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Sephora, Stuart Weitzman, and Burberry. There are also middle-of-the-road options such as Banana Republic and LOFT. Nordstrom co-anchors the mall with Macy’s and a renovated Dillard’s. Valet parking is available, though locals make a sport of finding their own spot to save $2 on the way to spending $200. 2126 Abbott Martin Rd.  615/298-5478. www.shopgreenhills.com.

Opry Mills Following its closure after the 2010 flood, Opry Mills mall reopened with an updated look and new stores. Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World remains a draw, as do outlet stores such as Gap Factory Store and Saks Off 5th. Affordable crowd-pleasing clothing options include Forever 21 and H&M, and there are several themed eateries for kids including Rainforest Café and Aquarium Restaurant. 433 Opry Mills Dr.  615/514-1100. www.simon.com.

NASHVILLE SHOPPING A TO ZAntiquesFor the best antiques, just start driving away from downtown on 8th Ave. S. and take your pick. Right away you’ll find Downtown Antique Mall (612 8th Ave. S.;   615/256-6616), a haggler’s paradise with century-old furniture, décor, and trinkets. Down the road a little ways in Berry Hill you’ll find the slightly more upscale GasLamp Antiques (100 Powell Place, #200;

 615/297-2224) and GasLamp Too (128 Powell Place;  615/292-2250), both of which are packed with treasures including vintage jewelry, light fix-tures, art, books, and even stuffed animals—the taxidermied kind, not the Care Bear kind. Antique Archaeology (1300 Clinton St., #130;  615/810-9906) bears mentioning, if only as a cautionary tale: The store is full of excel-lent finds, but thanks to the popularity of History Channel’s “American Pickers,” the line often stretches around the block on weekends, so try to hit it on a weekday. There are also several smaller antiques shops in West Nash-ville off Charlotte Avenue including Cool Stuff Weird Things (4900 Char-lotte Pike;  615/460-1112), which stocks odd things as advertised, but also

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carries the ubiquitous lighted name signs emblazoned “Nashville” (or neigh-borhood names) if you’re looking for a souvenir with heft.

ArtArt & Invention Gallery Inside this bright green East Nashville gallery you’ll find handmade jewelry, flannel folk-art dolls, and cherrywood kitchen utensils. Exquisitely crafted furniture, colorful letterpress wall prints, glass bowls and vases, handmade journals, and locally penned graphic novels fill the vibrant space. 1106 Woodland St.  615/226-2070. www.artandinvention.com.

The Arts Company Many of Nashville’s most promising artists sell pieces at this downtown gallery. Find sought-after painting, sculpture, and photography, as well as the start of the monthly art crawl that ferries custom-ers to downtown galleries by trolley on the first Saturday of every month. 215 5th Ave. N.  615/254-2040. www.theartscompany.com.

Elephant Gallery & Anteater Located in the Buchanan Arts District in North Nashville, the Elephant Gallery and studio presents group and solo exhibitions in all kinds of mediums and styles with a focus on the work of local artists. Inside the gallery you can also find Anteater, a store that sells funky books, zines, art, clothing, and accessories. 1411 Buchanan St.

 917/969-9755. www.elephantgallery.com.

Hatch Show Print If you buy only one souvenir while in Nash-ville, do it here. The oldest letterpress poster print shop in the U.S., Hatch Show still designs and prints posters for the biggest shows in town, including acts ranging from Jason Isbell and Dolly Parton to Pink and Journey. Every letter is unique, carved by hand, and posters are hand-inked one at a time. When they’re done with the wood, they use it to make furniture, including the shelves all the letters are stored on. Originally located where the Batman building is now, Hatch Show is now conveniently located in the building that houses the Country Music Hall of Fame. Their tour is a unique experience for any art lover, and any child patient enough to listen to 30 minutes of history before hand-inking their own poster to take home. 224 5th Ave. S.  615/256-2805. www.hatchshowprint.com.

Julia Martin Gallery Vibrant colors and emotional stories inform the art created by local Julia Martin in her studio in the Wedgewood-Houston arts district. Inside the dynamic space, which is located in a historic L&N Railroad house, you can find exhibitions of contemporary and performance arts with a focus on local and regional makers, as well as neighborhood art crawls. 444 Humphreys St., Ste A.  615/336-7773. www.juliamartingallery.com.

Mary Hong Gallery An artist and entrepreneur on the Emerald Coast of Florida, Mary Hong opened a Nashville outpost where fans can buy her art and also make their own unique glass keepsakes. The process is one whereby glass shards are placed onto painted canvas and covered with resin, then blasted with a heat gun to create mosaic artwork. Hong pre-paints the canvases, so artis-tic ability is not required. 414 Union St.  615/423-0818. www.maryhongstudio.com.

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The Rymer Gallery Smack in the middle of downtown’s up-and-coming arts district, this high-end gallery displays artists working in all kinds of media, from bronze sculpture to abstract prints mounted on aluminum. Regarded as one of the top galleries in the area, it’s worth a trip for collectors. 233 5th Ave. N.  615/752-6030. www.therymergallery.com.

BicyclesHalcyon Bike Shop Laid-back and friendly, the crew at this locally owned bike shop in 12South has built a loyal following by helping cyclists fix up and repair bicycles. 2802 12th Ave. S.  615/730-9344. www.halcyonbike.com.

BooksFairytales Bookstore & More Children’s books are only part of the mix at this beloved East Nashville store. Find educational toys, arts-and-crafts kits, and children’s costumes, or pop in for read-aloud story times. Located in the same cozy old house as popular ice-cream shop, the Pied Piper Creamery, the combination is perfect for a family outing. 114 S. 11th St.  615/915-1960.

McKay’s This massive store just off I-40 in Bellevue is known pri-marily for used books, but it offers much more. You’ll find records, CDs, musical instruments, toys, puzzles, and games in the 31,000-square-foot space. Despite its cavernous size, the store is well-organized, with books dis-played by category—and then alphabetized. They take in 10,000 items per day and are very picky, so you’ll also find higher quality items here than at most resale spots. Got kids? Cash in on their Lego deal: Fill a Ziploc bag of Legos for $3.95. 636 Old Hickory Blvd.  615/353-2595. www.mckaybooks.com.

Parnassus Books Nashville’s own bestselling author Ann Patch-ett’s independent bookstore in Green Hills is a local darling. The name Parnas-sus comes from the Greek mountain where music, literature, and poetry were born, if that gives you any indication of the big dreams Patchett has for this store. Fiction, nonfiction, and children’s books attract crowds, as do book sign-ings. Despite being right in the middle of traffic-choked Green Hills, the store keeps its personal feel with thoughtful touches like a children’s reading room. If you do have little ones, check the website and try to stop by when local favor-ite Emily Arrow is leading kids in songs, stories, and fun. The store is relatively small, so don’t go in search of something specific; just go in search of some-thing great. 3900 Hillsboro Pike, #14.  615/953-2243. www.parnassusbooks.net.

In 2002, Nashville author Ann Patchett won two major literary prizes in the same year for her novel “Bel Canto.” The story revolves around a world-renowned soprano who is singing at a diplomat’s birthday party when terrorists

take everyone at the mansion hostage. Days and weeks stretch into months, and with no common language except music, the hostages and captors forge unexpected bonds.

Operatic Timing

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Rhino Booksellers If rare books are your passion, check out this intimate, vintage bookstore that stocks a variety of genres alongside rare vol-umes, as well as fine instruments and vintage vinyl. Lovers of this bookstore go for the company as much as the goods, and many could spend hours talking with personable owner Fred Koller about film, literature, and music. 4918 Charlotte Ave.  615/279-0310. www.rhinobooksnashville.com.

Crafts, Gifts & BeautyBatch Nashville If you want to take the Nashville flavor home with you, score some Southern snacks at Batch Nashville in the Nashville Farmers’ Market. Batch also stocks bath products, stationery, books, jewelry, baby clothes, and dog accessories. The best part? The experts at Batch, who have made a career out of curating artisanal goods from Nashville and across the South, can help you select or create a custom batch of local products to take home. 900 Rosa L. Parks Blvd.  615/913-3912. www.batchusa.com.

Candle Bar Perfect for a girls’ outing, this interactive store allows guests to pour their own candles and their own drinks. Bring your own wine or beer, pick a vessel and a scent, and then travel back to middle school sci-ence class where you’ll cook up your own candle. Have your candle shipped home for a small fee, or come back for pickup after it dries, which takes about 2 hours (and can be easily spent walking around East Nashville’s Five Points). 901 Woodland St.  615/630-7130. www.thecandlebar.co.

Ceri Hoover Handbags Ceri Hoover launched her collection because she wanted a handbag she couldn’t find, so she learned how to make her own. Her handbags are versatile and easy to wear, made with quality stitch-ing and supple leather. 2905 12th Ave. S.  615/200-0991. www.cerihoover.com.

Hail, Dark Aesthetics For those who are bored of the traditional souvenir, this East Nashville oddity shop is a witch’s and gift-givers’ paradise, stocking everything from vintage medical equipment and Victorian tear catch-ers to coyote skulls. They also sell the latest designs from locals including Olivia Frankenstein, who makes cool, quirky versions of classic horror movie posters with a Nashville twist. Famous faces that have stopped by this spooky shop include Shaquille O’Neal, who was in town filming his Facebook show “Big Chicken Shaq.” 2410 Gallatin Ave.  615/727-4199.

Hey Rooster General Store Exposed brick, brightly painted floors, and big windows characterize this Hillsboro Village shop that’s stocked with delectable pantry items as well as jewelry, cards, candles, and pottery, and many of the goods are locally made. 1711 21st Ave. S. www.hey rooster.com.

Keep Shop Located unassumingly in the lobby of the Noelle Hotel, this is a self-proclaimed “luxury retail experience with a Nashville focus,” and they deliver on that promise. Meant to give visitors a glimpse into Nashville’s creative community, Keep Shop is highly curated, selling fancy, sometimes fussy but always beautiful things like French toothpaste, custom Stetson hats,

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Ceri Hoover handbags, and natural beauty products. Many products are Keep Shop exclusives, including Little Seed Farm custom scrub, Lemon Laine face oil, and blue heron bandanas, designed by local Benji Peck and crafted by Otis James. 200 4th Ave. N.  615/610-7840. www.noelle-nashville.com.

Lemon Laine Natural beauty products and wellness items line the walls at this elegant East Nashville shop. Everything is made with high-quality natural ingredients, including cleansers, makeup, and supplements. The store also has an oil bar where you can create a custom oil with ingredi-ents that are best for your skin. 1900 Eastland Ave., #102.  629/702-6940. www.lemonlaine.com.

Poppy & Monroe For a spot of pampering, nothing beats the shop in this 1870s row house in Germantown. Sip a mimosa while your nails or hair are expertly spiffed up using environmentally conscious products at this chic urban oasis. The shop also offers facials, brow and lash treatments, and hair removal, but be sure to call and make an appointment as the spots fill up fast. While you’re there, stock up on makeup, skin, and haircare supplies with brands including Josh Rosebrook, Herbivore, Olio Eosso, and the shop’s own custom products. 604 Monroe St.  615/640-0604. www.poppyandmonroe.com.

Thistle Farms This Nashville-based store and cafe is as lovely as its mission: to help women survivors of addiction, trafficking, violence, and poverty by giving them employment and emotional support. The store sells all kinds of unique goods including leather, jewelry, natural bug spray, body balm, and candles, all emblazoned with their motto: “Love Heals.” The adjoining cafe is one of the city’s best lunch spots, offering perfectly executed classics like pimento cheese and dilled egg salad along with daily tea service. Be sure to look up while you’re there: The ceiling is adorned with vintage teacups. 5122 Charlotte Ave.  615/690-4767. www.thistlefarms.org.

Uncommon James Reality TV star and Nashville resident Kristin Cavallari’s simplistic style is on display in her line of refined jewelry at this Gulch store. The clean, chic space is outfitted mainly with jewelry and is a must for any modern lady shopper—or for anyone who is a fan of Cavallari’s current show, “Very Cavallari,” which is completely hijacked by her husband,

Many local business are opting to sup-plement brick-and-mortar stores with robust online outlets, so you can get a little Nashville before you ever set foot here (or score a souvenir you forgot afterwards). Check out Vinnie Louise for stylish, affordable clothing, jewelry, and accessories (www.vinnielouise.com); Native + Nomad for locally, ethically,

sustainably made gifts, apparel, and home furnishings (www.shopnativeand nomad.com); and Shop Goodwin, a clothing and accessory store that manu-factures every piece in limited quantities so you can be sure you won’t see their elegant, timeless designs on anyone else (www.shopgoodwin.com).

Online Revolution

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former NFL quarterback Jay Cutler, and his signature deadpan approach to, well, everything. 601 9th Ave. S.  615/739-6846. www.uncommonjames.com.

Department StoresDillard’s One of the nation’s leading department stores, Dillard’s at the Mall at Green Hills, 2126 Abbott Martin Rd. (  615/297-0971), recently got an update, so visit that one if given the option. Other locations include River-Gate Mall, 1000 RiverGate Pkwy., Goodlettsville (   615/859-2811), and Cool Springs Galleria, 1800 Galleria Blvd. (  615/771-7101).

Macy’s This well-known national chain anchoring many shopping malls in Nashville, including Cool Springs Galleria, 1800 Galleria Blvd., in Franklin (  615/771-2100); Mall at Green Hills, 2126 Abbott Martin Rd. (  615/383-3300); and RiverGate Mall, 1000 RiverGate Pkwy., Goodletts-ville (  615/859-5251).

Nordstrom This high-end national retailer located at the Mall at Green Hills, 2126 Abbott Martin Rd. (  615/850-6700), offers clothing for men, women, and children, as well as cosmetics, fragrances, shoes, and other merchandise. Whenever you go, it will be impossible to find a parking spot, so go ahead and take a tip for the valet.

Discount ShoppingFrench’s Shoes & Boots Durango, Justin, Tony Lama, and Tim-berland are among the well-known boot brands sold at this downtown Nash-ville discount shop, but their specialty is cowboy boots. Whether you’re looking for pigskin, cowhide, lizard, or bedazzled, this place probably has them. Upstairs you’ll find the high-end stuff—aka boots that can run you several hundreds of dollars—while downstairs is devoted to bargain racks and an unbeatable discount: Buy one pair at full price and get two more pairs of equal or lesser value free. Just don’t drink too much on 2nd Avenue before you stop in or you might find yourself going home with some $500 thigh-high stunners, which will be hard to work into the rotation at your law firm. 126 2nd Ave. N.  615/736-2934. www.frenchsbootsandshoes.com.

FashionAlexis + Bolt This Germantown boutique sells everything from swimsuits and dresses to men’s apparel. Located in an old house, the shop takes cozy to the next level, with Chloé, the official shop dog, welcoming you in, and the owner often inviting guests to stay for a glass of wine. 506 Monroe St.  615/578-8257. www.alexisandbolt.com.

Anaconda Vintage This vintage shop in East Nashville stocks clothes, accessories, and home goods that have been selected by local sellers who are themselves artists, musicians, and tastemakers. Between dozens of belt buckles, jewelry, and leather goods, they also host live music, comedy, and poetry readings, so it is a true gathering place for Nashville’s creative community. 1062 E. Trinity Lane, #101.  615/864-8635. www.anacondavintage.com.

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Billy Reid Billy Reid describes his clothes as “lived-in luxury.” Rendering classic styles in luxe fabrics with surprising accents and Southern flair has made the designer a media darling. Actor Daniel Craig actually pur-chased the Bond Peacoat worn in “Skyfall” at the Nashville store while shop-ping with band members from the Kings of Leon. The coat already happened to be named “Bond,” but it wasn’t after James Bond; it was actually named after Bond Street, the location of the brand’s flagship store in New York City. The Hill Center, 4015 Hillsboro Pike.  615/292-2111. www.billyreid.com.

Imogene + Willie Dubbed “a denim junkie’s paradise” by “GQ,” this 12South shop sells distressed jeans, cotton button-downs, and other hand-crafted apparel in a restored gas station/garage. The store counts Nashville’s own Black Keys and Brooks & Dunn among its customers. It is truly a hip-ster’s paradise, so if bespoke fashion and custom denim sound intimidating to you, the store may feel that way as well. 2601 12th Ave. S.  615/292-5005. www.imogeneandwillie.com.

Levy’s While men’s fashion options in Nashville are more numerous than ever before, sometimes the old spots are the best spots, and that rings true for Levy’s. Zadoc Levy started the business in 1855 as a small tailor shop, and the business is run today by his great-great-grandson David. Levy’s stocks upscale designer apparel sourced from Europe and beyond, as well as contem-porary brands such as J Brand, AG denim, and Rodd & Gunn. Best known for their menswear collection, Levy’s luxury labels, on-site tailoring, and unpar-alleled customer service keep people coming back to the spacious Green Hills store. 3900 Hillsboro Pike, #36.  615/383-2800. www.levysclothes.com.

McPherson’s Another longtime player in the menswear market, McPherson’s is off the beaten path on Charlotte Pike, but people who love it swear by it. Since 1969, men who like fine clothes with a traditional feel have shopped here, and today they carry many fine brands including Peter Millar and Missani. 5920 Charlotte Pike.  615/356-4886. www.mcphersonsclothing.com.

Nisolo This sleek, modern manufacturer showcases leather shoes, boots, bags, and belts. As one of the nation’s first social impact labels, Nisolo works with artisans and craftsmen in Peru, Mexico, and Kenya, creating jobs while creating products that are beautifully constructed and stylish. 1803 9th Ave. N.  615/953-1087. www.nisolo.com.

Oak Hall Founded in 1859 as one of the first ready-to-wear mens-wear stores in the country, Oak Hall now carries high-end apparel for both women and men. An offshoot of the Memphis-based original, the 12,000-square-foot Green Hills store includes a tailor space and carries big names such as Derek Lam and Max Mara. They’ve also customized the Nash-ville location with Nashville-based jewelry from Carden Avenue and Ever Alice Studio. The Hill Center, 4017 Hillsboro Pike, #303.   615/454-6497. www.oakhall.com.

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Peter Nappi Quality Italian-made shoes, boots, and leather goods are on offer at this Germantown studio, a showroom built in a former indus-trial boiler room. Locals Dana and Phillip Nappi, grandson of late Italian immigrant and shoemaker Peter Nappi, opened the shop in 2011, and it became a fast local favorite. The shop also offers a curated selection of Euro-pean apparel and home goods—vintage tables, Chesterfield sofas, mid-cen-tury pieces—and regularly hosts events where musicians play as locals drink, snack, and shop. 1308 Adams St.  615/248-3310. www.peternappi.com.

Posh Boutique Trendy clothes and footwear by the likes of Diesel, Boyfriend, J Brand Jeans, and MM Couture attract a young clientele. With a second location at the Hill Center, 4027 Hillsboro Pike, Ste. 705 (  615/269-6250), and a third in Franklin, at 1556 W. McEwen Dr. (  615/465-6483), Posh has proved it has staying power. If you visit the original Hillsboro Vil-lage location, they also offer menswear and a sale room that’s legendary among locals. 1801 21st Ave. S.  615/383-9840. www.poshonline.com.

Flea MarketsNashville Farmers’ Market In addition to scores of outdoor farm stalls selling produce, this market includes about 100 flea market vendors daily, selling everything from leather goods and blankets to dishes and baby clothes. 900 Rosa L. Parks Blvd.  615/880-2001. www.nashvillefarmersmarket.org.

Tennessee State Fairgrounds Flea Market This huge flea market is held the fourth weekend of every month except December, when it’s the third. Attracting more than 1,000 vendors selling everything from clothes and crafts to collectibles, diehard scavengers swear by this market for fasci-nating finds. The Fairgrounds Nashville, 625 Smith Ave.  615/862-5016. www.the fairgrounds.com.

Food & KitchenwareBUTCHER SHOPS For true foodies, no trip to Nashville is complete with-out stopping by one of our two excellent butcher shops. East Nashville’s Porter Road Butcher (501 Gallatin Ave.;  855/877-8202) has been a favor-ite since they opened in 2010. They work with local farms, process all their meat in their own facility, and hand-cut every piece in their shop, which is also stocked with local cheeses, jams, sauces, and more. If you like, they’ll make you a full charcuterie board to-go (return the board at your convenience), and you can pick up some of the city’s best barbecue at their in-house (well, tech-nically it’s in the parking lot in a trailer) spot The Gambling Stick (p. 82). If you find yourself craving PRB’s product once you return home, don’t fear: They have an online operation offering hand-trimmed cuts of beef, pork, chicken, and lamb delivered fresh without being frozen. Shipping will run you just $5, and the meat will arrive at your doorstep in 3 days or less (www.porterroad.com). In West Nashville’s The Nations neighborhood, a few PRB veterans opened up Bare Bones (906 51st Ave. N;  615/730-9808; www.barebonesbutcher.com), a shop that’s as good a place to hang out as it is to buy

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meat. Owners cut the meat to order, and the shop also offers a small but mighty selection of sandwiches. Pair one with a draft beer and eat at the cozy bar with the garage doors open. On your first trip, you are required to get the burger because it’s arguably the best in town: two griddled patties, squishy bun, gooey American cheese, tart pickles, zingy onions, mustard, and mayo. On your way out, grab a bottle of Añejo Verde Pepper Sauce, a locally made green hot sauce with a rich, smoky flavor that’s flat-out addictive.

Christie Cookie If you’ve ever had the legendary warm cookies at a DoubleTree Hotel, you know the power of Christie Cookie. It’s one we’ve long appreciated in Nashville, where the company is based. The freshly baked gourmet cookie shop offers a full array of their signature cookies—don’t miss the chocolate chunk, which has bits of almond toffee sprinkled throughout—ice cream sandwiches, and giant “cookie cakes.” Special at the 12South loca-tion, an offshoot of the Germantown original, are the “brookies,” a brownie/cookie hybrid, which you can enjoy with a glass of milk at their fire-engine red store. 2606 12th Ave. S.  615/454-3162. www.christiecookies.com.

Coutelier Nashville One sure sign Nashville has officially reached food town status is the opening of Coutelier knife shop, a New Orleans export where professional and home chefs can find fine knives for every taste. Owned by two chefs who have worked at acclaimed restaurants including the French Laundry, Coutelier sells hand-forged Japanese steel knives from around the world as well as kitchen tools and accessories. The staff is warm and wel-coming, so don’t be intimidated to go in and find the knife that will change your life. 933 Woodland St. C.  615/915-2335. www.couteliernola.com.

Goo Goo Shop Goo Goo Cluster was started in 1901, when a Nashville banker gave Howell Campbell, a local peddler who sold goods from his horse and buggy, an inventory of candy to sell from a bankrupt company. That gave him the idea for Standard Candy Company, which had success with Bell Camp boxed chocolates and King Leo peppermint sticks—you know: the kind everyone’s grandmother had in a dark blue tin on the counter. Eventually he created a custom confection using caramel, fresh marshmallow, and roasted peanuts, which he covered in milk chocolate to create the world’s first combination candy bar. It’s said to be named “goo goo” because that’s the first thing a baby says, so people can ask for them from birth.

The shiny downtown location offers original, pecan, and peanut butter ver-sions in addition to Goo Goo gear and a dessert bar where visitors can treat themselves to cakes, pies, cookies, shakes, and sundaes. If you really want to upgrade your Goo Goo experience, go to Candy School—$40 buys a tour, plenty of samples, and a chance to make your own confections. Other classes are avail-able Thursday to Saturday. Whatever you do, don’t eat before you go—each class makes more than a meal. 116 3rd Ave. S.  615/490-6658. www.googoo.com.

Green Door Gourmet Green Door Gourmet is much more than a market, but their market is a good place to start. Filled with local goods, inside you’ll find preserves, smoked tomato jam, pickles, and other Southern

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delicacies from Tennessee outfits such as Noble Springs Cheese, Benton’s Bacon, and Bang Candy. The 300-acre urban farm supplies many Nashville restaurants with fresh, organic vegetables, even growing vegetables specific ways based on a chef’s desires. The farm’s old barn was built using repurposed wood from the original, and now they host events and festivals there. Pick up soups, sauces, and marinades for dinner, or grab a piece of local pottery or soap to take home. 7007 River Road Pike.  615/942-7169. www.greendoorgourmet.com.

Lazzaroli Pasta Lazzaroli makes quality pasta because they start with quality ingredients: farm fresh eggs, American semolina and durum flour, Tennessee water, and extra virgin olive oil. Ravioli and meat sauces are mainstays at this Germantown market, where everything is hand-rolled. Whether you want traditional linguine or hand-cut pappardelle, you’ll find it, along with gourmet pantry items and classic Italian desserts such as fresh can-noli. Don’t miss the spicy ravioli stuffed with hot Italian sausage, grated cheese, and crushed red pepper. Be sure to check the hours online before you go: They’re closed Sunday through Tuesday most weeks. 1314 5th Ave. N.

 615/291-9922. www.lazzaroli.com.

Olive & Sinclair Chocolate Co. Scott Witherow trained at Lon-don’s Le Cordon Bleu before coming home to Tennessee to start this bean-to-bar chocolate-making company. Carefully crafted in small batches from premium cacao beans, the intensely rich chocolate bars are unlike anything you’ll find at a grocery store. Think Mexican-style dark chocolate flavored with cinnamon and chile, bourbon-smoked nib brittle infused with Pappy Van Win-kle, and duck fat caramels. The building is decidedly a throwback, peppered with antiques and featuring 200-year-old heart pine floors. Everything about the place underscores the fact that this chocolate is made using old methods, and that equals quality. The store’s melanger (aka the big chocolate mixing device) even dates back to 1928. Tours are offered Saturdays, and at only $5 per person including samples, they are a steal. Kids will love seeing the glowing, industrial chocolate mixers, though the rest of the tour is mainly talking, so consider that for rambunctious little ones. Free tastes and views of the melanger are also offered in the shop, which all kids can enjoy. Closed Sunday and Monday. 1628 Fatherland St.  615/262-3007. www.oliveandsinclair.com.

The Peanut Shop If you’ve worked up an appetite trudging around downtown, a bag of fresh-roasted peanuts (or any of the other hundred snacks) from the Peanut Shop will hit the spot. This tiny Arcade shop has been

Did you know cotton candy was invented by a Nashville dentist? He sold it for the first time at the World’s Fair in St. Louis in 1904, introducing

it as “Fairy Floss.” Self-rising flour was also invented here, so dessert lovers have several things to thank Nashville for.

Sweet Tooth

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8in business since 1927, roasting more nuts than you’ve ever seen and fash-ioning some treats you may not have, including maple nut goodies and butter brittle. Originally one of 2,000 Planters stores, it’s one of only four originals still operating. The scales used in the shop date back to the late 1930s, and the peanut roaster, named Little Bertha, is also original. Take them up on the free tastes they offer; opinions on what works (and what doesn’t) can vary widely. Tip: The Arcade alleyway is inexplicably shut-tered on weekends, so hit the shop Monday to Friday. 19 Arcade.  615/256-3394. www.nashvillenut.com.

Furniture & Home GoodsApple & Oak This East Nashville home goods store is a go-to spot to find unique vintage rugs, pretty things for your home, and fun gifts. The store injects playfulness into everything it does, from ice cream cone pool floats to temporary tattoos to cards made by local vendors that say things like: “I’m sorry I was a complete and total ______.” The store also offers DIY help for shoppers looking to update their own old furniture by way of easy-to-use pastel paints, which you can see on display on vintage chairs around the store. You can also score vintage Turkish rugs here, as well as artwork from Nash-ville’s 1767 Designs, which uses wood sourced from historic Nashville homes that have been razed during the building boom. 717 Porter Rd.  615/568-8633. www.appleandoaknash.com.

Board & Bread Third generation woodworker Emily Brock has made a living out of fusing together her love of furniture, fixtures, and kitchen tools with her love of cooking and creating beautiful things. Using local Tennessee hardwoods including black walnut and African rosewood, her kitchen utensils are functional and realistic. Try out her wooden spoons, servers, and cutting boards, as well as her unique wooden lighting fixtures. You can see her work on display at Germantown’s Rolf and Daughters restaurant, and you can purchase your own at White’s Mercantile at 2908 12th Ave. S. (  615/750-5379).

Jewelry & AccessoriesABLE While living in Ethiopia, ABLE founder Barrett Ward saw how poverty forced generations of women into prostitution. She founded her company in Nashville to provide them with a livelihood—one that produces

In its heyday, Barnum & Bailey Circus was the Peanut Shop’s biggest client. They would order 2,000 pounds of pea-nuts in the shell, which took all night to roast using the shop’s one 25-pound roaster. Each morning, the elephants

would pull wagons through the alley up to the shop, where they’d use a pulley to hoist 100-pound sacks of nuts onto the wagons. From there, the elephants would walk to the fairgrounds.

A Nutty Commute

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lovely things in the process. From hand-woven scarves and leather goods to handmade jewelry, all ABLE purchases help break the cycle of poverty. The jewelry and leather goods are my personal favorite, especially the chic black druzy ring and the Emnet Foldover Crossbody leather bag. Proving they are truly savvy business-women, the store launched a bach-elorette party package that include a mimosa toast, a visit with a personal stylist, 15% off purchases, and a com-plimentary personalized necklace. 5022 Centennial Blvd.  615/650-3600. www.livefashionable.com.

The Shine Project Continuing the theme of doing good while look-ing good, the Shine Project employs inner city youth to handmake jewelry, which they sell to help kids build college funds. All aspire to become first-generation college students. Their first brick-and-mortar store east of Arizona is in East Nashville, and sells beautiful jewelry with whimsical designs like a gold and pink watermelon slice, as well as inspirational tees. 1005 Fatherland St., Ste. 303.  615/902-3141. www.theshineproject.com.

MusicErnest Tubb Record Shop The creaking hardwood floor and narrow rows of record bins have been discernably polished and widened since this historic record shop opened in 1947. Ernest Tubb was a beloved country music entertainer who played Carnegie Hall, was inducted into the Country Music Hall of Fame, and founded the “Midnite Jamboree,” a live-music event that followed the Grand Ole Opry at the Ryman. Today the store is more of a pilgrimage stop than a place to score great vinyl; I was surprised by their limited selection, but it makes sense when you see the volume of CDs they’re stocking. (It’s like 1993 in there.) There’s another, larger shopping mall loca-tion out near Opryland, at 2416 Music Valley Dr. (  615/889-2474), which is where the “Midnite Jamboree” is held each Saturday, and where Ernest Tubb’s famous tour bus resides. 417 Broadway.  615/255-7503. www.ernesttubb.com.

The Great Escape This old store caters to record and comic book nerds alike, as well as other collectors and bargain seekers. The used-records section offers much more than just country, and it’s a big, no-frills place with a great selection. 5400 Charlotte Ave.  615/385-2116. www.thegreatescapeonline.com.

Grimey’s New & Preloved Music New and “preloved” music is bought and sold at Grimey’s, an independently owned record store and community gathering place for all things music. Stop by their Trinity Lane location in an old church (they had to move from 8th Ave. when the rent

One of the original do-gooders in Nash-ville, Project 615 (www.project615.org) is a philanthropic T-shirt company that donates much of its profits to men recovering from homelessness and addiction. Their shirts are fun and mod-ern, and they often whip up timely T-shirts for events such as the Nashville Predators playoff run.

Project 615

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increased) to buy T-shirts, posters, concert memorabilia, and other cool stuff, and get a leg up on everything that’s going on around town. They also host listening parties, record-release events, and free concerts that frequently draw stars on the rise (Lily Hiatt, Anderson East), as well as heavy-hitters like Jason Isbell from time to time. 1060 E. Trinity Lane.  615/226-3811. www.grimeys.com.

Third Man Records This shop is the brainchild of former White Stripes front man Jack White, a musician, record producer, and vinyl enthusi-ast who moved to Nashville years ago from Detroit. In the store you can find posters, collectibles, turntables, vinyl, and CDs by the The Raconteurs and Black Belles, of course, but their collection also includes non-rock acts such as country music queen Loretta Lynn and rockabilly legend Wanda Jackson, both of whom had albums produced by White. Albums by recent acts signed to the label include Margo Price and Joshua Hedley. The cramped room is full of kitsch, including an old wooden telephone booth and the comical, coin-operated “Monkey Band.” Third Man also acts as a one-stop production house where musicians can record and have their albums pressed, and as a live music venue and event space. 623 7th Ave. S.  615/891-4393. www.thirdmanrecords.com.

Musical InstrumentsFanny’s House of Music Pink ukuleles, electric guitars, drum sets, and even ancient instruments like a psaltery are for sale at this boutique in East Nashville. Located in a charming Victorian house, the shop sells new, used, and vintage gear and also houses two vintage clothing stores: Star Vin-tage and Mom & Pop Culture Shop. Browse the goods and then sit a spell in chairs scattered throughout while you test-drive guitars. 1101 Holly St.

 615/750-5746. www.fannyshouseofmusic.com.

Gruhn Guitars Johnny Cash, Neil Young, Elvis Costello, and Eric Clapton have all been clients of Nashville’s biggest guitar dealer (and one of the largest in the world). Gruhn’s stocks used and collectible guitars, as well as reissues of musicians’ favorite instruments. Fretted instruments of all kinds can be found here. If you’re in the market for a 1953 Les Paul or a 1938 Martin D-28, this is the place to hit. 2120 8th Ave. S.  615/256-2033. www.guitars.com.

SouvenirsIf you’re looking for affordable, music-centric souvenirs, you’ll find more than anyone’s fair share on Broadway, 2nd Avenue, or near Opryland. The downtown souvenir stores at the George Jones or Johnny Cash museums offer more upscale memorabilia, but even those feel pretty cheap considering no one but Willie is even alive to sign off on selling this stuff.

At Opryland, gift shops such as Cooter’s Place and the Willie Nelson and Friends Museum & General Store at 2613 McGavock Pike offer lackluster museums that may run you up to $10 to enter, while the main goal is really to get you to buy what my mother would simply refer to as “crap.” However, if you are a fan of “The Dukes of Hazzard,” you might enjoy a stop by Cooter’s Place, which is owned by actor Ben Jones, who starred in the late 1970s TV

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show. Entry is free, though calling this a “museum” is a bit of a stretch. It’s the kind of place you can buy a novelty T-shirt, a Confederate flag (please don’t), or have your picture taken in front of the General Lee, the famous bright orange 1969 Dodge Charger. Next door at Willie’s place, you’ll find something similar, except that it will cost you $10 to enter the dusty exhibits in the big back room, so it’s for Willie completists only. There are a few of his guitars, movie posters, and his pool table back there, as well as small areas dedicated to fellow Outlaws Waylon Jennings, Johnny Cash, and Kris Kristof-ferson, though you can typically find more detailed explorations of the latter at the Johnny Cash Museum or the Country Music Hall of Fame. To get to the museum, you’ll have to brave racks of shot glasses, swizzle sticks, and dol-phin figurines, so for my money, the best thing to do here is spend $1 and get your fortune read by the Willie Zoltar machine; then go next door to Nashville Palace (p. 118) and have a beer while you contemplate your newly revealed future.

Western WearDowntown Betty Boots caters only to the ladies (321 Broadway;  615/736-7698) while Boot Country sells everything from work boots to python-skin stunners (304 Broadway;  615/259-1691). Nashville Cowboy offers a stag-gering collection of boots, belts, hats, and buckles as well as fringed suede varieties (132 2nd Ave. N;  615/259-8922). There is also Boot Barn, Boot Country, and Big Time Boots, and several more. For thorough shoppers who wish to pour over shelves of shoes and scour every store, here’s my advice: Start at the corner of 5th Ave. N. and walk toward the river. Near Opryland, there is Trail West, which is not the draw it once was due to steeper prices than their competitors, but they do carry the Brooks & Dunn Collection for those who simply must boot-scoot-boogie with legitimacy (2416 Music Val-ley Dr.;  615/883-5933). There’s also Boot Barn, a major Grand Ole Opry sponsor, and you know they wouldn’t steer you wrong (405 Opry Mills Dr.;

 615/316-2209).

For those with upscale tastes and fat wallets, there is Manuel, a shop at 800 Broadway where Nashville’s clothier to the stars designs custom western cou-ture. Born in Mexico, Manuel was the fifth of 11 children. He learned to sew at age 7 and worked his way up the fashion ladder in the prestigious tutelage of Nudie Cohn, for whom “Nudie suits”—flamboyant, rhinestone-encrusted cow-boy outfits—were named. Manuel’s

works of art can be found in museums including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Smithsonian, and locally in Nashville at the Country Music Hall of Fame. Manuel’s close friend, Marty Stu-art, is rumored to have more than 3,000 pieces of cowboy couture from Manuel, Nudie, and the like. And you can have one of your own—if you have $7,000 to spare (www.manuelcouture.com).

The Man of Western Couture