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New and unexpected cosmetic properties of perfumes. Effects upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils, absolutes and fragrant compounds J. J. E  TIENNE* and T. L. PHAM. DUC Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, Parfums ROCHAS, rue d'Aigremont 75, 78300 Poissy, France L. SIMONET INOCOSM, Chatenay-Malabry, France M. DERBESY ENSSPICAM, Marseille, France 20th IFSCC Congress, September 1998, Cannes, France Keywords: absolutes; elastasic activity; essential oils; free radical scavengers; tyrosinasic activity Synopsis The biological properties of several different perfume components have been investigated. It has been demonstrated, through appropriate test methods, that essential oils, absolutes and even compounds show significant (anti/pro)-radical, (anti/pro)-elastasic and (anti/pro)-tyrosinasic activities. These unexpected properties open up new opportunities for the formulation of cosmetic products and could contribute to the understanding of activities traditionally attributed to essential oils by Aromatherapy. Re sume Les proprieÂteÂs biologiques de plusieurs composants diffeÂrents utiliseÂs en parfumerie ont eÂte eÂtudieÂes. On a montreÂ, aÁ l'aide de meÂthodes expeÂrimentales approprieÂes, que les huiles essentielles, les absolues et meÃme des compositions parfumantes preÂsentent des activiteÂs significatives pro- ou antiradicalaires, pro- ou antieÂlastasiques et pro- ou antityrosinasiques. Ces proprieÂteÂs innattendues offrent de nouvelles opportuniteÂs pour la formulation des produits cosmeÂtiques et pourraient contribuer aÁ la compreÂhension des activiteÂs traditionnellement attribueÂes aux huiles essentielles par l'Aromathe rapie. Introduction Perfumers use a lot of different raw materials of natural and/or synthetic origins in their compositions and, though they are extremely careful in their selection as far as their *To whom correspondence should be addressed. Tel: +33 1 30 74 94 40; fax: +33 1 30 74 94 49. 0142-5463 # 2000 International Journal of Cosmetic Science International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22 317±328 (2000) Ahed Bhed Ched Dhed Ref mar- ker Fig mar- ker Table marker Ref end Ref start Paper 22 Disc

New and unexpected cosmetic properties of perfumes. Effects upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils, absolutes and fragrant compounds

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