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NEW- YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, WEDNESDAY. DECEMBER 31. 1902. WHOLESALE DRYGOODS TRADE. -SURPLUS STOCKS HAVE DISAPPEARED ENTIRELY. iOwermJked Product Finds Ready Sale — Finer Fabrics Are Constantly Produced. <& 9 liIPffISTiEIHS AS9D eOtIMISSSiiII RJEB6HABTB, iSEf YORK. Wilham Crefshton. >Urk H. Borch. B»nJ. F Be*. CREIGHTON & BURCH. ESTABLISHED J*3o. DRY GOODS COMMISSION. 10 AND 12 THOMAS ST.. St T. MILLS & GIBB, IMPORTERS or Laces. Embroideries-. White Goods, Linen*. Handkerchiefs. Veilings, Ribbon*. '\u25a0 Notions. Buttons. Trlmmniaa. Cloaks. Neckwear. Knit Goods, Gloves, Curtains, Etc, BROADWAY AND GRAND ST. X. T. | > I SWEETSER, PEMBROOK & CO. J. HOWARD SWEETSEK. HOWARD P. SWE^TSBH. Pr *"- Tt«»» ™* GEORGE L. PUTNAM. JOS. H. IKJNSON. I»t V. Pr»«. £ Secty. 54 v. Praa. ROBERT LOCKHART. HERBERT rOKMTT WHOLESALE DRY GOODS. 374. 376. 378 BROADWAY. X. T. Good Demand for High Priced Articles. Mmimmu mm Kr HE demand this season in the Jf^~ && J£ fur trade has been for the >*$. *• most expensive articles, and \u25a0 fiN •& business lor the last year has yßfe* only fallen off to a small ex- Mjg v^_ tent from the- extraordinarily jEw Inrpe amount of the year be- fore. Most in demand have been the skins of the. Russian sable, and these have been selling, according to quality and size, at from $30 to $s<v>. The dark fur of these little animals of the weasel family, which is termed imperial Russian sable-, lias always bepn the rarest, and this season furriers say that this country has received the greater part cl it. Ther» Is no duty on the raw skins, and they are dressed here. C. C. Shayne has just received sixty of the skins, for which he paid SS,O-X>. FUR TRADE ACTIVE. the faith and the foresight that what had been done once could be done again; that upon the same soil, amid the same beauties of nature, where orchard and rose-garden lie in repose, and with the inspirations of the same romantic life, but with the added advantages of modern means for reaching distant market?, the artist weavers of Persia rould be aroused to respond to the call to accomplish what their fathers had accomplished before them. It was believed they could be Jbrougut again to reflect the subtle charm of nature in wool and fadeless dyes, and, moreover, to do It in harmony with the most refined standards of Western art. There, in Persia, were the same unrivalled masters of the loom in possession of the secrets of the matchless vegetable dyes of ancient Per- sia, and there the indefatigable weavers who. beginning from childhood, develop a keen ap- preciation nf the intricate and ever unconven- tionalized designs and color schemes that follow nature in the beauty of suggestive forms and combinations. The result of this venture is that over fifteen hundred weavers are now at work on the nu- merous looms of one American firm in Tabiz and Meshed, Persia, weaving exclusively for the firm's shipments to the United States, and pro- ducing ruga from the smallest prayer Sedjades to the largest carpet sizes, forty to fifty feet long, equal in texture and coloring 1 , as veil as in designing, to th<* choicest of the antique? woven by the earliest masters of the art. JAMES H. DUNHAM & CO.. SUCCESSORS TO DUNHAM. BUCKLEY * CO.. IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF DRY GOODS. Departments: FOREIGN DRESS GOODS. SILKS AND VELVETS. DOMESTIC DRESS GOODS AND "WASH GOODS FANCY GOODS AND NOTIONS. RIBBONS AND TRIMMINGS. HOSIERY AND (StjOVTBf WHTTE GOODS AND LINENS. LACES AND EMBROIDERIES. SHAWLS. WRAPS AND CLOAXBL CLOTH 3 AND LININGS. BLANKETS AND FLANNEL?. PRINTS AND DOMESTICS. CARPBT3 AND OILCI/rTES. «0. M 2. SU Broadway. Xeir York. BOESSXECK. BROESEL & CO., IMPORTERS AND COMMISSION* MERCHANTS; 462-46S Broome Street. mm Grerne St.. 75 Worth St. NEW YORK CITY. MEYER JONASSON & CO.. CLOAKS AND LADIES' WEAK. BROADWAY AND TWELFTH STREZT. XfTrr YORK CITT. BURTON BROTHERS & CO., FINE COTTON- UXIXGS. 354 AND 3M BROADTVAT. N. T. OfflcasaJso tn Chicago. Boston. Philadelphia. aM SUn Francisco. W. \u25a0 DERBY * CO. IMPORTERS AND COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 2S. 30 Greene St. N. T. CURTIS a. (TI,rN. MANUFACTURERS- AOENT HOSIERY. ETC . Htm Ten Life Bu htßaa N. T. KR .VX.? fA I ' FAr * ri:RI * CO 51AMFACTURERS OF COLORED PETTIT>AT3. __^ 43 Leonard St.. N. T. LINENS. SHAW BROS.. ~~~~ ~"~~-~-~— — -"*- LINEN IMPORTERS AND MFRS" AGENTS, _.. 4- 46 Whit* St.. N. T. LINENS. HANDKERCHIEFS, ETC. crjATn .<\u25a0 ri.vKts. IMPORTERS OF LINENS!. HANDKERCHIEFS. ETC. 37. ** Leonard St.. X. T. RIBBONS. COREETT. REINHARDT * CO.. HIGH NOVELTY AND PLAIN RIRBONS. wsessa lO> Greene St. Mills. Pat»r«on. N. I. WILLIAM P. GILL. .* Oa 51 LK RIBBONS. KOBJE3GN AND DOMESTIC. _ —___- _^ I> Greene St.. N. I JOSJSni CIIADWICK A sf»\«. The NewburK Bleachcry. of Kewburg. N". T., whose New- York agents are Joseph Cbadwtck & Sons, of No. Sit? Broadway, bleaches wn'l finishes line cotton piece goods, shirtings, sheetings, drills and canton flannels. WILLIAM CAlinOl.L A CO. One of th< principal firm* of manufacturers and merchants making and dealing exclusively In every kind and description of men's and women"! straw hats Is William Carroll & Co., of Nos. :,<;-, a id BW Broadway, New- York City. The tlrm was estab- lished upward of twenty years ago, and at pres- ent is composed of XVl 'i m Carroll, C. 71 Watson and <;. A. Schrader. The hats made by William Carroll <v- Co. bear a national reputation, and nr» in great demand by the trade In all parts of the United States The firm's principal factory is at Matawan. N. J. About five hundred hands arc employed, it : - the constant aim of the firm to Introduce new shapes every season. A considerable part of the bu Inei consists of the wholesale case trade. The linn carries ;m extensive Une of im- ported hats, and is justly celebrated for its tine Porto Rlcans and French palms. This firm Is un- doubtedly a strong leader In the straw hat trade. staatinople, and they are easily the leaders of th»» drygoods houses of the world. iiItKKFF A tO. Qreeff »v Co., Importers nn.i commission mer- rbants. of No. MK4I2 Sprin^-st.. ne sole agents of th<- }'lneuix silk Manufacturing Company. The members ol the rirm are ICmil. Hornhard and Ernest F. Oreeff. lIOEM.XOHAIS A CIiTISaV Hoeninghaud & Cnrtlas, composed of F. Hoening- hatis and 11. W. Curtis*, of No. 469-J7r> Drnome at- drygoods commission merchants, deal extensively in domestic and foreign dress silks, ribbons, novelties, neckwear, silks, etc.. . to. COTTON GOODS. L. PPIEOELBEmi * SON.-. COTTON GOODS 14.'.. HI. 14f> 151 "Greene St.. N. V. ROBERT FRANKLIN ADAMS. MANUFACTURER OF FINISHED COTTON '\u25a0"• < X>OS». »iran.l an«l M.'r,-» r jSt., N. T. COTTON CLOTH AND YARN BROKERS. PRAY & HOWARD, BROKERS COTTON Cl/VTHS AND YARN?. «a. 72 Leonard St.. N. V : •.'\u25a0•> Market S^i.. Provldfnc*. DRESS GOODS. EUGENE H. RLOCK. WOOLLEN AND WORSTED DRESS GOODS. ETC. Corner Br.-.cm. i.. . Mercer St*.. N. V. ufacturers and distributers of dry and fancy goods in the world. This famous business is so closely identified with the tremendous advance of Ameri- can manufactures of dry goods, and especially the unequalled production of cotton wares, that It can be safely said that the IT. B. Claflin Company has become so renowned that even in the remotest part* of the world its reputation has extended and th« demand for its merchandise has been established. Like all really great business enterprises which are built upon solid foundations, the H. B. Claflin Com- pany has taken many years to develop into the mar- vellous concern which is carried on to-day with its headquarters in New-York City. The history of this wonderful business is of the most interesting character, a 3 showing what human enterprise, probity, steady perseverance, limitless ( energy and hard work can accomplish. Horace B. Claflin, the founder of the business, was born on December IS, 1811. In 1831. wher twenty years of age. he suc- ceeded his father in a general store business at Milford. Mass.. and the following year a branch was opened at Worcester. Mass. Here, it was that he developed his original ideas of furthering the interests of the drygoods trade. He inaugurated novel and vital changes in busines methods, par- ticularly in advertising. lie also soon realized the advantage and importance of buying in the New- Tork market. Boston at this period having been the chief purchasing centre for the Massachusetts merchants. The increase in his Worcester busi- ness had become so great, and the shrewd grasp he had obtained of the marvellous opportunities offered for successful trading in New-York, which had more than doubled its population since be nrst started in business, that Mr. Claflin determined to launch an enterprise In the Queen City of the world. In 1&13 he entered into a copartnership with William F. Bulkiey and founded the great house which bears his honored name in all parts of the globe at No. 4»J Cedar-st.. starting with the modest capital of $30,000. Some idea of the growth of the business can be gathered from the tact that In 1853 it amounted to $1 .000.000 In iB6O the business transacted reached about $13,500,000. The greatest purely drygoods business the world has ever known was transacted by the firm in one year (1864) during the Civil War. the sales amounting to the stupendous sum of J72.000.000. On June 16. l«?n. th« 11. B. Claflin Company was Incorported, with a capital of $9,000,000. fully paid up. The following are the company's officers: John Clafltn. presi- dent; Edward E. Barnes, first vice-president: John r.ipen Eamps. second vice-president and general manager: Dexter N Force, treasurer: Stew-art W. Eames, assistant treasurer, and George E. Arm- strong, secretary. The H. B. Claflin Company have branches in Manchester, Paris, Hamburg and Con- duration with many of the most prominent houses in Europe. Asia and Africa. One who had once, worn the exquisite beaver skins, fox, ermine. Russian sable. Hudson Ba\ *able, marten, chinchilla, minx, otter. Persian lamb. Astrakhan lamb. seal, badger, bear and other rich fura would never be likely to mistake anything leas fine than the real article afterward. ; for the exquisite manner in which the Gunther 1 furs are treated render? them unmistakable in richness of quality, purity of origin and style Ci finish. It is an education to visit their establish- ment and see the rare furs, learn from whence they come and for what purpose they are \u25a0**"• At Gunther"a are seen fine robes and coachmen* outfits made of raccoon skins, which resemM* those of the black bear, only they are less ex- pensive. In robes of all sorts the wild beast* of the. forest have furnished to C. O. Gunthers Sons pelts unexampled in beauty and treated and male up in a style which none can surpass. Of all the industries that of manufacturing the pelts of animals into articles for the use of man- i kind is the most ancient, and hardly a country ; exists in which, to some extent, the skins of dit- 1 ferent beasrs are not so us^d at the present tim*. : From the Arctic Circle to the tropics, and again 1 southward to the Antarctic regions, the rurs of i wild animals have contributed to the needs and the comfort of mankind, and even in the Temperate Zone we have learned to thoroughly appreciate the luxury and utility of furs in view of the sudden changes of temperature to which the vagaries or i climate, subject us. | THE I.MTED STATES riIIMIW COMPANY. The largest finishing, blenching and dyeing plant I in the country is that owned by the United States iFinishing Company, an organization made up of I three immense works for the converting, printing, , dyeing, bleaching and finishing or woollen and cot- ton goods, situated variously in Fasasic. N. .T. : Fawtucket. R. I . and Norwich. Conn. The com- panies which make up the one big corporation had ' each before tr.eir consolidation established the j highest possible reputation for the quality of their work. *o that demands upon them through the converting trade, grew to enormous proportions. Large as these are the company In its present form is able to turn out work to any amount, as its capacity is practically unlimited. The. three great 1 plants which hold so important a position in the United States Finishing Company are by no means the only ones which go to make up the works of that vast organization. Other splendid, it less extensive, plants contribute to the resources and the success of that company, and all alike are equipped with the latest processes of manufacture and the most perfect methods for carrying on their work. Officers from the leading corporations which were merged into ope were selected to control the af- fairs of the new company, which was incorporated in im with \u25a0 capital of $.*.<V>>.C<vi. The United States Finishing Company does printing, dyeing and finishing upon a varied class of fabrlca, siicb as shirtings, lawns, sleeve linings, cheviots, cam- brics', draperies, pantaloons, rubber cloth. Italian rolled silesias, Hollands, pocketlngs. colored duck. cretonnes and embo;.Fed linings, wigans. clastic, canvas, sheetings, hosiery and umbrellas. It is a sort of paradox that the larger the company grows and the more perfect its equipments become the fewer number of customers they have. Th» ex- planation of this is that the greatest Brass in the country are so pleased with the work executed for them by the company that Instead of parcelling out different classes of their work to different plants they turn all over to one. with results emi- nently satisfactory all around. The officers of the United States Finishing Com- pany are men who have had long training in the lines of business in which they are engaged. Since* the incorporation of the United States Finishing Company the various properties operated under that name have gone on adding to their facilities nnd capacity, putting In th* very latest and most perfect machinery and turning out goods which nave no superior in the market. Thte combination of interests gives employment at good wages to many thousands of people, improves th" property where the planrs and their factory villages are located, and puts upon the market millions of yards of.fabrics of many klnd«. treated in the best manner known to modern arts, chemicals and machinery. .1. H. Wright is the president and general man- aKT and J. Hunt Smith the treasurer The celebrated Norwich Bleaching. Dyeing and Printing Company, the justly famous Dunneli Man- ufacturing Company, the Sterling Dyeing and Fin- ishing Company and the Reed & Barry Co. have gained and lost none of their prestige by becoming a part of a greater corporation. Their rapacity for handling work is vastly superior under the new management, for the reason thai it has unlimited capital back of it and increased facilities for handling business. CUREXCE WHITMAN A CO. Holding on« of the very foremo.«t position* hi the drygoods trade of the country, the firm of Clarence Whitman £- Co.. of No.-. ro and 41 Ivonard-st.. New-York City, with branches In Chicago. St. .Louis ar.d Philadelphia, is celebrated throughout th«» world's commercial community. No house in the trade has done raor» to develop domestic manu- factures of drysoods, which it has forced to the front In th* face nt imported poods of similar character. no that the cr.i-oi:ras<"m«>r.r to American manufacturers has been ar—tly strengthened by th» action of Clarence Whitman * Co. Domestic fabrics are fast overhauling and in many in- stances have caught up to and passed th» <iu<tiuj of Imported materials, and manufacturers are naturally stralniu every nerve, employing every < *nt of capital at their command and devoting their lives and energies to produce j:oods that no other country can surpass, and thus keep th« consump- tion of every variety of drygoods ln the United States practically confined to those of domestic manufacture. Owing to the increasing excellence of domestic manufactures and the. support given to manufacturers by soca firms •>-> Clarence Whit- man &. Co., their pushing the sates of domestic goods to the Jobbers and the retail trade, and th* latter, in their turn. Impressing the American pub- lic with the excellence of th< native productions , the importing trade la rapidly rlndire keener com- petition. It was in ISIS, nearly a quarter of a century ag». that the brothers K. C. and Clar nee Whitman established themselves in business In New-York City as dr> goods commission merchant*, principally dealing in fancy drygoods, silks, cur- tains, etc. Such was the energy and abilityof these* two young merchant princes that their business grew- rapidly and quit.- kept pace with the increas- ing prosperity of the country. Expanding under the system of fair trading, which was placed, con- ducted and still remains at the highest possible standard by the brothers Whitman, the fame of their business was quickly spread through th» length and breadth of the land. Th" name of Whitman speedily became a household word among the jobbers and th«" retail trade in every State. At no bouse could they secure £•"\u25a0>. is of better quality at more reasonable i. •••.--. longer credit or fairer dealing than with the firm of K. C. & C. Whit- nan. Th« result of the prosperity and satisfaction derived by the customers of the tirm had Its natu- ral effect upon the development of it.- trade. After the lamented death of Sir K. C. Whitman his brother. Mr. Clarence Whitman, succeeded to the business, which finally adopted the firm name of Clarence Whitman A. Co. The, partners now are- Clarence Whitman. James S. Whitman. E. S. Twining. C. Morton Whitman and L. B. Frieze. SHIRTS. V HENRY ROTHSCHILD CO.. MANUFACTURERS AND PEALERS IN SHIRTS. 43 Leonard St.. N. T. NEW COLUMBIA SHIRT CO.. MAKERS OF TUB POPULAR NEW COLUMBIASHIRT. \u25a0 s«y.iroom>. "U. 7">l Bro*4way. N. T. SILKS. SUITS AND COSTUMES. J. & M. COHN. SILK its .wo COSTUME?. NO\ ELTIES in WOOL AND COTTON waists, SVUC WAISTS. KTC. 13». 101. JO3. IWV. 107. I'M OREBNE ST.. N. T. Branch Factory. Newark. X. J. SHIRTS. WAISTS, ETC. HrTtrrcHixsox, pierce & coT •SHIRTS. WAISTS AND UNDERWEAR. MADE UNDER THE FAMOUS "STAR" TRADEMAX*- R#eognliea tor y«ar» as th» standard mat*. *42~54* BROADWAY. N. Y. SILK GOODS. ALFRED K. WRIGHT & CO.. SILK SPECIALTIES FOR JtFG. TRADE. 83 Gf«n* 6t-._S : _Jj SILKS AND SATINS. RUE. HALLETT & HODONE. DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN SILKS AND SATINS. 402, 494 Broom* St.. v ': UNDERWEAR, ETC. A. W. PORTER A CO.. _„ KNIT I'NTHRWBAR. COMMISSION. EXPORT. ETC. 43. 43 White St.. X »• BAMUEL P. BTTRRFIIu " DISTRIBUTOR OF iIFRS.' KNIT I NDSR^E-tR- . ;_ ;»«. 2M ci»'"* h st - **• | - WOOLLENS. JEAN F. SCHIEB. \u25a0 • FOREIGN" TTOOLLEN3, \u0084 <• • ' 57 Gretas Wt * T> Th<» American silk manufacturer has pursued a path similar to that of liif confrere in the cotton industry. Two years .'•go the silk trade -was in an extremely unsatisfactory condition. It seemed at that time as if every mill man- acer had determined to make one class of goods. and Hist ihe simplest and easiest to weave. Cheapness was the only Inducement offered to the buyer. The result was seen in overproduc- tion, adulteration, assignments and general de- moralization. Bat when matters reach their vorst they begin to mend. The manufacturers «jnakc up i" the situation. Diversifying their jiroduct. they avoided th" piling up of merchan- dise, and instead of selling goods on the ab- surd basis of -"a new dollar for *n old one" were *ocn in a position to make a ii\ing profit. The ."beginning of 11V12 found scarcity and high prices .-•where a year before had been heavy bocks and A>ottornless prices. The manufacturers of silk ribbor have also .pood reason to congratulate themselves on the year's operations. '\u25a0\u25a0 demand for this class faf merchandise has been irdinary. for rib- t>ons have achieved unwonted popularity with (the fair sex. being now pal to a larger number \u25a0C ii- .- than at any foi mer period. Importations of manufactures of silk in 1902 samouii:. t to $32,640,212. This was In excess, of •the importations cf liii: ($3L,172.594) and of 1597 (525.19f-l.o<J7>. due largely to the increased ITavor shown to velvets ::n<l ribbons. The steady jprowth of the American silk industry is proved fey the constant inereas<- of importations of raw silk, which in the riscai year 1902 were valued St 141.714 \u25a0 \u25a0 agaln«a \u25a0 .- '.'l^._ i v: in IS.!? and i25,063.87!< in 181*2. Producers of men's wear woollens have scored c> very satisfactory year. The demand has kept .close to the supply, and with an exceptionally *trong market for raiv materials there baa been «-verything to encourage clothiers and other con- sumers to provide not only for Immediate but £or future wants. Th" same holds true of Cab- rics suitable for the manufacture of women's tuner garments. The importations of men's wear woollens de- creased from 12.513.27H pounds in 1802' and 27.- K"i:4.:;Jl pounds In LfciSi to 1,730.999 pounds in 3302. Woollen materials for women's dresses and •\u25a0ostumes have been in remarkably large de- mand throughout the year. One of the chief outlets for such products is furnished by the Phir.,ent manufacturing industry, which of late years has assumed enormous proportions. There are now very few women who disdain to wear a ready made coat or suit, while, costumes of an exceptionally elaborate character are success- fully and profitably made in a limited number of factories. All this has lessened the pale ot dress fabrics by the yard. In fact, two years ago retailers \u25a0were sorely exercised as to the loss of profit, In «=uch lines, yet during 1:« r the great majority of dress goods departments have reported in- creased sales to the extent of 40 per cent; this, too, in the face of an expansion equally great in the distribution of garments. Importation of dress poods decreased from 78,573.033 square yard? in 1592 to 52.555.042. Here comparison with ISft" is not possible, as tinder the Wilson tariff duty was assessed at rates per pound instead of by measurement. Throughout the year the textile industry has been unusually free from strikes, the only im- portant struggle being that of the dyers' help- ers in the Xew-Jersey «ilk mills. After a. ces- sation cf twelve weeks, which deprived hun- dreds of other operatives of work by shutting off the supply of raw material, the strike was declared off. the employers declining to accede to the operatives' demands. The knlr goods industry is a branch of textile manufacture in which a most gratifying degree of success has been achieved by American mills. Our imports of knit underwear and particu- larly of hosiery steadily decline, in the face of our rapidly Increasing population, while the out- put of American mills as continuously grows. This branch of Industry has shared very fully in the prosperity which has marked the year. Th«! dlfßculty right along has been to keep pace •»\u25a0 i«h the demand, and this more especially in the underwear section of the trade. Our imports of cotton krit goods, which in the fiscal year ISS2 were valued at $5,833,652, and In 1897 at 55.596.703. amounted in the fiscal y«*r of 1902 to 5" " '"' "15. Imports of wool knit •Toode. which in IMC were valued at $1,- 362.853. and in 1897 at $2..V'1.«(08. have declined •until this year they reached" the small figure of 5571r fi6s. The importation of cotton knit goods is con- fined to r» r rain kinds, mote especially fine ribbed u^:*- ar for women and the lace and embroidered kesiery now so popular. But for the favor shown to the last named article im- T-iruLtion? would show a far greater decline, in fact.' German manut'ncturers- describe the \u25a0\u25a0^rfwnt jar' on as ;'-.-:r "salvation." recognlz- While, however, the new mills art; compara- tively few. the extensions of old plants and the increase of production by the introduction of Improved machinery must not be owrlooked. In the South mills of onus* large capacity have r*-»n begun, and in one or two cases com- An Important feature of th° year 5n tex- tiles ras been the improvement and greater dl- versification of the product. Many cotton mills In New-England which formerly produced fab- rics of a simple and distinctly staple character f-.avr undergone - complete change in equip- snent. They have been "rigged up" to spin yarns «f much finer count, BAd to weave them into the novelty materials which, by their originality »nd attractiveness, command a much hicher price. This commendable step has been taken •by the management as a result of the steady JnVrcase of Southern mills md the continuous progress made in the production of goods higher Iv qua.lHv and more carefully woven. The print- ing of cotton fabrics has been elevated to a fine 'iui In the rnited States, as elsewhere, and the combined energy and enterprise of weaver an<l printer have placed upon the market fabrics pearly as diaphanous in texture and beautiful In design --,: any that can be imported. Despite th» progress made by American manu- facturers, we still continue to import <-onsid<-ra- "We quantities of printed goods, the quantity "being 32.*0TJ23S square yards In 1892. 35,H37^_f» Fduare yards in - •:. and 15.440.314 square •\-ards hi IW£. This anomaly is explained by Ihe desire' for individuality of design, since In j point, of both quality and beauty the American pooris are a close second. to those of France and Switzerland. On the other band, our importa- tions of "gray" or unfinished cotton fabrics have decreased from 1.572.224 square yards in I*o2 and 3.177.211 square yards in iv»T to <42,011 In \u25a0\u25a0>: AKTKO the drygoods trade as a whole, the last twelve- month has been .i profita- ble one. in place of. the «ccunrulation which two years ago was a somewhat marked feature of " more than one branch of dry- goods production, difficulty has been experienced in fill- ing orders. Higher prices *iiv*» naturally followed. The strength thus ensuing has been increased riy steadily advancing quotations for raw ma- terials. Silk, wool and cotton have been in lib- eral demand, and with a. supply below rather Than above requirements the market has been continuously sustained. This is especially true of spool, which, owing to the prolonged drouth in Australia, v.ill Isssely reach still higher fig- ure*. It Is somewhat remarkable that, despite the gratifying, demand for textile, fabrics through- out the year, there has been no reckless increase jn the number of plants. Probably this con- servatism is attributable, in part, to the num- ber of other opportunities for the investment of capital which have been provided, and, in part again, 'n the high rates which money has generally commanded. Revival of Rug Making — It Is a Regular Business Now Carried on Under Modern Methods. of tbe most remarkable aspects in the development of American commerce has been t!.. growth ani progress of the trad'- in the flnoi coverings of the Orient, particularly In those coming from the rup provinces of Persia, wiij.-h have been famous since th<-- most *n<-iom day? I>.r thr- products of their looms, only :i few years ago, well in the memory of lovers of Oriental art. American trade In Oriental rup;s \va? confined to a few liou:-^ In the larger c -itl'-s". It was dependent, moreover, upon thi- periodic arrival of invoices of old ruKs collected in Tur- kej and Persia, together with some modern rugs m bright colors. Coming from regions far distant from one ai other and totally different in condition? and surroundings, these products of the Kastern weaver's art presented a medley of weave and oolortac from the crude and shaggy s lr i r , s that had covered the tent-floor of the Kurdish chtef in his mountain retreat, to the exquisite gems Of most delicate color and perfect workmanship thai the master weavers of Ispahan had woven for the paze of royal princes. The standard? of true art being universal, It was natural for lovers of art in America to be attracted by the quaint yet marvellous beauty of color and design in the choicest of Oriental nips, which before long found their \u25a0way to the homes of the educated and refined people throughout the country. The Kuropean markets, however, had also their demand for these collections from the mansions and shrines of the Orient, and soon the stream* bogan to run dry. first here and then there. Within a decade the Oriental rug trade has undergone a remarkable revolution, in consequence of its pe- culiar character. From accidental beginnings, with haphazard shipments and a course of trade without any apparent foundation for development, the im- portation of Oriental rugs has come to have a fixed and prominent plac as an established and important branch of American commerce with the Orient. At the outset a new collection of antique rugs reaching the American market would create a new demand, and forthwith col- lectors wouM ransack all the unfrequentei cor- ners of the Oriental provinces to secure the choicest pieces of the kind, and for a time there would come shipments of rugs that delighted the lovers of Oriental art with their beauti'ul *heen. gorgeous color schemes and the soft tints of sunset skies. And then, when the collector had done his work, it was the end. Thus it is that what ten years ago were articles of com- merce are to-day to be sought as curiosities, and antiques of Bokharas. Kazaks, Karabaghs and Iranf. of all graies are passing into the same category. To bring out of this situation a stable con- dition of trade that would be susceptible of de- velopment in proportion to the demand was the problem that had to be solved. The foundation of this modern enterprise was FROM LOOMS OF PERSIA trip the enormous strides made by American manufacturers in the production of other lines. With importers of drygoods 1902 has been an equally prosperous year. Perhaps the lace and embroiders' field has led in the race, for fashion has, favored the use of these materials in an exceptional degree. Here, too, American enter- prise has made itself felt, and not only have new factories been installed in this country, hut older establishments have increased their out- put very materially. Kid gloves have met with an unusually grati- fying consumption, and here likewise importing houses have scored, while our domestic manu- facturers have largely increased their already extensive business. < A drygoods business which has sprung" up within recent years in this country is the manu- facture of neckwear for women. All sorts of novel conceits In neck dressing have been in- troduced, many of these being of most elaborate and costly character. At a time of such un- exampled prosperity as the present these articles of luxury rind ready sale, and their production has proved >xtrentely remunerative. Among distributers of drygoods evidences of prosperity are very apparent. Failures have been unusually few. and such as have occurred have been due to special conditions, which In some eases dated back a number of years. On the other hand, the year has witnessed a mar- vellous development of the facilities for doing business. A Chicago wholesale house, has just moved into newly erected premises covering al- most the entire area of two city blocks, and having a floor space equivalent to sixteen acres. A great retail bouse In the same city has en- larged its quarters until the area employed for the selling and handling of merchandise is close to four acres In Philadelphia largo, exten- ; sione have been effected by drygoods firms, one of these contesting the palm for extent of store with the Chicago retail house just referred to. In our own city we have seen an old estab- fished retail firm remove to a newly built store which, it is believed, holds the record for size in this country. Another retailer is to build a modern department store on the site of the store vacated. And. meanwhile, an entirely new re- tail establishment of considerable proportions j ha* been added to New-York's already long list of drygoods establishments. All over the coun- !try the story is Hi. same. Scarcely a city, from ! the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the northern : border to he Gulf, but can boast its new store !buildings and enlargements of existing plants. Th" outlook for the coming year Is very fa- vorable for manufacturers and distributers <>f textiles. The advance sales of cotton fabrics for spring consumption have exceeded all previ- ous records. Manufacturers of wool and worsted dress materials have disposed of the bulk of their production of spring merchandise. an<3 are now preparing samples of autumn fab- vies for the inspection of the buyers for whole- Rale houses and the larger retail stores, who will, early in February, visit the market with a view to placing orders. In view of the higher prices on wool, more especially the high grade Australian variety, which is essential to the production of fine worsted fabrics, it Is a foregone conclusion -that these collections of new st\ !• s will be opened at an advance over the spring lines. Indeed, to such an extent r:re manufacturers in the dark as tc how far the increase In values will go thai the opening of these collections will be deferred lo the latest possible date. j Manufacturers of silk will continue for some | time to tarn out spring lines. The prospect for this branch of the Industry is such as should encourage every American mill manager, as well as every importer. A large demand for silks during V.*<: Is assured, for many v 111 be the uses of such fabrics, in addition to the call for silk« for making up garments, large quantities "f taffetas will he required for linings. The .tendency in wool dress materials for spring pets strongly toward the upe of diaphanous weaves, which must be made over a drop skirt of Bilk. In addition cotton fabrics of a sheer, gauzy character, which will be liberal] employed dur- ing the heated term, must of necessity be made over a filk foundation, affording another ex- tensive outlet for the queen of fabrics. This Rtati of affairs Is far from conducive to th<> interests of the mills producing cotton lin- ing?. There is always a certain demand for the heavier grades of surii fabric*, for this is h country of vast extent, numbering many na- tionalities among its people. Very !ine qualities of percalines are also in perennial demand. Nevertheless, Bilk has largely replaced cotton for lining purposes, and will continue to do so. In the commission nun jobbing houses of New- York's wholesale drygoods district expansion Is the watchword for ]'\u25a0*>'\u25a0'-. A very few old estab- lished firms will withdraw from business, but the active members of thoir personnel will join other concerns, contributing thereto added strength and vitality. All over the country preparations are being made tor a year of increased and profitable busi- ness. Vow employes of drygoods houses, whole- sal» and retail, but can find places— a sun- proof of satisfactory conditions within the tr:«d<\ With a continuance of the remarkable pros- perity of the la* V"few years, the textile indus- try cannot but duplicate in the coming twelve- month the satisfactory record of 1902 SAMUEL H. DITCH Manapin? Editor of "The Dry Goods Econo- mist." LOOKING WEST IN WALIrST. Trinity ch,ir.ii on the fur'ii'r sM<^ of Broadway, blocks I)..- %!<•.\u25a0. The United States Bub-Treas- ury, with ' • of \Vashlngton. on ifi<- ri«ht. On the left, almost behind the lamppovt, 1« the entrance I \u25a0 and banking bouse of J. \u25a0'. Morgan, ;>t th. soul \u25a0 M •-:•\u25a0\u25a0 •\u25a0C Broad and Wall "The den and has* been almost too great to fill." Bald Mr. Shayne. "Garments have been made of from Fix to eighteen skins, and those of th* popular color and size sHi for about ??.:/">. Muffs, with stole* to match, have* been in demand. The-v; have nold at from U.SOO to 12,900 Among the large sales I have recorded are one for $3,000, for a cloak and muff; one for $7,150, for a cape, muff and neck piece; one of 18.000, for a cloak and muff, and one of $0,500, for a robe. Comparing my business this year with that of 1901J In October this year It «m 50 per cent larger; In November. 15 per cent larger, and in De- cember. a per cent larger." The stone marten, which in farmer yean was Bold as a. substitute lor Russian sable. has not been popular. These Bkins were often dyed to make \u25a0< better imitation. Now, the whole demand seems to be for natural skins. Other fur* th I h:ive been used extensively this season are th" sea otter which sold at from P. OOO tr» $2,000; silver fox. which sold at from $200 to Ji.- 100, and natural black fox, which sold at from $1- 500 to $.i.'>>.'. Chinchilla; mink awl ermine have also been sold in large quantities. Chinchilla, the most delicate an<i silken of .-ill fur, has been shown this season In a very fln< quality. The fur Is lone and wonderfully line In texture, hi,o has been much Bought after In mak.fni; muffs, boas, trimmings and linings for coat*. Mink, which is susceptible of being made into almost an: article of apparel, the pelt being very soft and pliable, has been chiefly used in capes and jackets. The fur of the ermine, which Is only from eight to twelve incnes lot K. is being used for robes, linings and trimmings. Siberian squirrel Is being used more mis year than ever before for muffs, stoles .md trimmings. The work of placing the nklns of all these small animals together Is a very important factor In the manufacture of a garment, and matching the Mrii><\s and shades of the furs necessitates .i selec- tion of great care. This, with the workmanship, greatly increases the cost of a garment. Now that these skins have become popular for capes and cloaks the fur dealers arc making nn extra profit on the work on garments. Sealskins on account of their great beauty and suitableness for articles such as jackets, mantles and cloaks, as they are readily formed to lit the body, and are not cumbersome In appearance, havt: ' been shown in exceptionally fine, grade? The Alaska. whins have been the most highly valued, with the so-called Northwest Coast skins nearly as fin*. Those from Copper Island (one of th. Aleu- tian group) have been next in point of excellence. while the Lobes Island (Cape Hope), Tiobhln island and Japanese have been of fair quality. All these skins are difficult to judge, as there are twenty-one different qualities in colored sealskins. AMERICAN WOOLEN COMPANY. Some idea of the Immense business done in the manufacture of woolen and worsted fabrics In this country la gained from the fact that the American Woolen Company owns and operates no less than twenty-seven groups of thirty-three plants. These plants occupy 610 acres of land. The mills run 426.627 spindles and C.437 looms, and give employ- ment to 22.000 person.' The company is capitalized at 00,000.000. The m. who have so ably finan- ciered and managed th. valuable properties are Frederick Ayer. president; William W. Wood, treasurer; Edward W. Chapin, assistant treasurer- Joseph T. Shaw, secretary, and an efficient board of directors, composed of Frederick Aver Will- iam W. Wood. Charles It. Flint. James Phillips Jr., Edwin C. Seift. John Hogg, Francis W. Klt- tredge. Samuel P. Colt. Edward i*. Chapin and J. Clifford Woodhull. Great care is shown in the selection of the wool used in these mills. C. L. IIAI'MIKIt& CO. One of the oldest and most important houses en- gaged in the cotton goods trade is C. 1,. Bausher & Co.. of New-York, Boston and Chicago. The New-York establishment Is located at Nos. 32 34 and .*• Thomas-.- 1.. The business was originally established in Boston by Gardiner Brewer & Co They are the selling agents for the products of the M?utTvln™Slu" ri^?r pany and the AnK. ry BOETTCER A HIXZE. Boettger ft Hinze. of No. 500 Broome-nU and works at Nos 734-744 East One-hundred-and- forty-fourth-st.. have made a reputation for care- ful and delicate, work in finishing broad silk goods. BATTELLE, HIRD A CO. One of the leading firms in the drygoods commis- sion business Is that of Battelle. Hurd & Co. The firm has offices at Nos. 53 and 65 Worth New- York, and No. 100 Arch-st, Boston. H. B. CLAFLI* COMPAXY. With the marvellous growth of New-York City and its almost Incredible advance as the Queen City of the world's commerce must be associated the firm and gradual development of the H. B. Claf- llnCompany, the largest importers, exporter?, man- j C. G. GtXTHER'S SOX?. A fur importing and manufacturing company \u25a0that is so ancient and so representative as to form an important detail In the growth and grandeur of modern New- York 1p that of C. G. Gunther'p Sons, of No. 184 Flfth-av*., established in 1820. Thiß house brings to the fur trade nearly a century of knowledge and experience in the purchasing and handling of furs, and it has exceptional facili- ties for securing raxe. furs, skhis and pelts, nwiaj to its connections of nearly one hundred years" .J. W. GODDARD »v so.\«. Established in 1847 by the late J. W. Goddard. one. of the leading houses In the dryßoodp trade oi this country is J. W. Goddard & Sons. The firm is celebrated throughout the trade in the United States, England and Europe, as being th*> only large house In the world that covers the whole field of linings and trimmings for the clothing, tailoring and drygooda trades it carries also all kinds of buttons, braids and buckles for the cloth- ing and trimming trades. Like many of the huge mercantile bouses of New-York City, this business was started in \u25a0 modest way. and gradually ex- panded with the trade of the metropolis. The late J. W. Goddard began business in .i small store at No. 57 Willlam-st.. and his integrity and strict business methods caused the business to grow rapidly. From time to time the firm removed to more commodious premises, until finally it settled down In a home of its own in 1881, at n>j.-. PS. 100 and 102 Bleeeker-st. The firm was reorganized on January 1. 1301. by the admission as partners of Vvnmer A. Baldwin and Joseph Mathers both or whom had been with the house twenty-five year? A pleasing feature in connection with the firm is the spirit of harmony which exists among it.« employes. Treated with generosity, consideration and justice, every employe feels an enthusiastic pleasure in working for the firm, as he would for himself, and this is without doubt a factor in the commercial prosperity of the firm. Captain *. Norton Goddard is the present head of the house Captain Goddard. aside from commercial circles. is also a. conspicuous figure in the public life of New- York City, his efforts as leader of the XXth Assem- bly District, to secure good municipal government for the metropolis, have been gratefully appre- ciated by all. nt\K EXPORT AMI COMMISSION COMPANY. The Cone Export and Commission Company, of Nos. 74-7fi Worth-.st.. New -York, and Greensboro. X. C. has been extremely suec esful In Introducing the cotton Roods produced by the new Southern mills. THE DOIIERTY A WADSWORTH COMPACT. The Doherty &- Wadswortn Company^ >r Nos. 138-110 Spring \u25a0• New-York, with mills at Paterson -N. .1.. hiv extensive manufacturers of dress and neckwear -Ilk.'-, and have built up .\u25a0 large trade. GAKIUSOX. WRKiHT A CO. Garrison. Wright .v .•,,.. importers of ladles' dress trimmings, laces and buttons at No* 636 ami 538 Broadway and No. 35 Spring-st., do" on ex- tensive business In their lino. DYERS AND BLEACHERS. RERNIIEIMKR & WALTER. ~ PRINTERS. BLEACHERS. DYERS OF COTTON" GOODS 12l> Franklin St.. N. v' FANCY GOODS AND NOTIONS. S. E. HOWARD'S SON" A CO.. FANCY GOODS AND NOTIONS. IS Mercer St.. x. V GLOVE MANUFACTURERS. A. H. FISCHER & CO.. "*" " MFRS. AND IJirTRP. KIP AND SUEDE CLOVES j «>4 Br.v>m< St.. N. V. PAUL FLOQUEfT, ~~~ GLOVES MADE OF LEATHER [ 58. FlO Greene •) . x. <r. REYNIER FRERES CELEBRATED GLOVES H. A. CAESAR & CO. m. BERTHAUD. MGR > - Annex. 47. \u25a0\u25a0*& White St v y. SCHWARTZ. 6CHIFFER * CO. GLOVE MANUFACTURERS. . Broadway. N. T. T. T. REYNOLDS • ~ - MAGGSOKU FRANCESCO KID GLOVES -, : >"" *> to 9* Grand St.'. X. T. 6 DRYGOODS. 4Ppfv

NEW- DAILY WHOLESALE DRYGOODS TRADE.chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1902-12-31/ed-1/seq-20.pdf · Mass. Here, it was that ... On June 16. l«?n. th« 11. B.Claflin Company

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Page 1: NEW- DAILY WHOLESALE DRYGOODS TRADE.chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1902-12-31/ed-1/seq-20.pdf · Mass. Here, it was that ... On June 16. l«?n. th« 11. B.Claflin Company

NEW- YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, WEDNESDAY. DECEMBER 31. 1902.

WHOLESALE DRYGOODS TRADE.-SURPLUS STOCKS HAVE DISAPPEARED ENTIRELY.

iOwermJked Product Finds Ready Sale—

Finer Fabrics Are ConstantlyProduced.

<& 9

liIPffISTiEIHS AS9DeOtIMISSSiiII RJEB6HABTB,

iSEf YORK.

Wilham Crefshton. >Urk H. Borch. B»nJ. F Be*.CREIGHTON & BURCH.

ESTABLISHED J*3o.DRY GOODS COMMISSION.10 AND 12 THOMAS ST.. St T.

MILLS & GIBB,

IMPORTERS orLaces. Embroideries-. White Goods, Linen*.

Handkerchiefs. Veilings, Ribbon*.'\u25a0 Notions. Buttons. Trlmmniaa.

Cloaks. Neckwear. Knit Goods,Gloves, Curtains, Etc,

BROADWAY AND GRAND ST. X. T.|

> I

SWEETSER, PEMBROOK & CO.J. HOWARD SWEETSEK. HOWARD P. SWE^TSBH.Pr*"- Tt«»»

™*

GEORGE L. PUTNAM. JOS. H. IKJNSON.I»t V. Pr»«. £ Secty. 54 v. Praa.

ROBERT LOCKHART. HERBERT rOKMTT

WHOLESALE DRY GOODS.374. 376. 378 BROADWAY. X. T.

Good Demand for High Priced Articles.

Mmimmu mmKr HE demand this season in the

Jf^~ && J£ fur trade has been for the>*$. *•

most expensive articles, and

\u25a0 fiN •& business lor the last year has

yßfe* only fallen off to a small ex-Mjg v^_ tent from the- extraordinarily

jEw Inrpe amount of the year be-fore. Most in demand havebeen the skins of the. Russian

sable, and these have been selling, according to

quality and size, at from $30 to $s<v>. The dark furof these little animals of the weasel family, whichis termed imperial Russian sable-, lias always bepn

the rarest, and this season furriers say that thiscountry has received the greater part cl it. Ther»Is no duty on the raw skins, and they are dressedhere. C. C. Shayne has just received sixty of theskins, for which he paid SS,O-X>.

FUR TRADE ACTIVE.

the faith and the foresight that what had beendone once could be done again; that upon thesame soil, amid the same beauties of nature,

where orchard and rose-garden lie in repose,and with the inspirations of the same romanticlife, but with the added advantages of modernmeans for reaching distant market?, the artistweavers of Persia rould be aroused to respondto the call to accomplish what their fathershad accomplished before them. It was believedthey could be Jbrougut again to reflect the subtlecharm of nature in wool and fadeless dyes, and,moreover, to do It in harmony with the mostrefined standards of Western art.

There, in Persia, were the same unrivalledmasters of the loom in possession of the secretsof the matchless vegetable dyes of ancient Per-sia, and there the indefatigable weavers who.beginning from childhood, develop a keen ap-preciation nf the intricate and ever unconven-tionalized designs and color schemes that follownature in the beauty of suggestive forms andcombinations.

The result of this venture is that over fifteenhundred weavers are now at work on the nu-merous looms of one American firm in Tabizand Meshed, Persia, weaving exclusively for thefirm's shipments to the United States, and pro-ducing ruga from the smallest prayer Sedjadesto the largest carpet sizes, forty to fifty feetlong, equal in texture and coloring1, as veil as indesigning, to th<* choicest of the antique? wovenby the earliest masters of the art.

JAMES H. DUNHAM & CO..SUCCESSORS TO DUNHAM. BUCKLEY *CO..

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF DRY GOODS.Departments:

FOREIGN DRESS GOODS.SILKS AND VELVETS.

DOMESTIC DRESS GOODS AND "WASH GOODSFANCY GOODS ANDNOTIONS.

RIBBONS AND TRIMMINGS.HOSIERY AND (StjOVTBf

WHTTE GOODS AND LINENS.LACES AND EMBROIDERIES.

SHAWLS. WRAPS AND CLOAXBLCLOTH3AND LININGS.BLANKETS AND FLANNEL?.

PRINTS AND DOMESTICS.CARPBT3 AND OILCI/rTES.

«0. M2. SU Broadway. Xeir York.

BOESSXECK. BROESEL & CO.,

IMPORTERS AND COMMISSION* MERCHANTS;

462-46S Broome Street.mm Grerne St.. 75 Worth St.

NEW YORK CITY.

MEYER JONASSON & CO..

CLOAKS AND LADIES' WEAK.

BROADWAY AND TWELFTH STREZT.

XfTrr YORK CITT.

BURTON BROTHERS & CO.,FINE COTTON- UXIXGS.

354 AND 3M BROADTVAT. N. T.

OfflcasaJso tnChicago. Boston. Philadelphia. aM SUn Francisco.W. \u25a0 DERBY *

CO.IMPORTERS AND COMMISSION MERCHANTS.

2S. 30 Greene St. N. T.

CURTIS a. (TI,rN.MANUFACTURERS- AOENT HOSIERY. ETC. Htm Ten Life Bu htßaa N. T.

KR.VX.?fA I'FAr*

ri:RI* CO51AMFACTURERS OF COLORED PETTIT>AT3.__^

43 Leonard St.. N. T.

LINENS.

SHAW BROS..~~~~~"~~-~-~—

—-"*-

LINEN IMPORTERS AND MFRS" AGENTS,_.. 4- 46 Whit* St.. N. T.

LINENS. HANDKERCHIEFS, ETC.crjATn .<\u25a0 ri.vKts.

IMPORTERS OF LINENS!. HANDKERCHIEFS. ETC.37. **Leonard St.. X. T.

RIBBONS.

COREETT. REINHARDT * CO..HIGH NOVELTY AND PLAIN RIRBONS.wsessa lO> Greene St. Mills. Pat»r«on. N. I.

WILLIAM P. GILL. .* Oa51LK RIBBONS. KOBJE3GN AND DOMESTIC._—___-_^ I> Greene St.. N.I

JOSJSni CIIADWICK A sf»\«.

The NewburK Bleachcry. of Kewburg. N". T.,whose New-York agents are Joseph Cbadwtck &Sons, of No. Sit? Broadway, bleaches wn'l finishesline cotton piece goods, shirtings, sheetings, drillsand canton flannels.

WILLIAM CAlinOl.L A CO.One of th< principal firm* of manufacturers and

merchants making and dealing exclusively In everykind and description of men's and women"! strawhats Is William Carroll & Co., of Nos. :,<;-, a id BWBroadway, New- York City. The tlrm was estab-lished upward of twenty years ago, and at pres-ent is composed of XVl'i m Carroll, C. 71 Watsonand <;. A. Schrader. The hats made by WilliamCarroll <v- Co. bear a national reputation, andnr» in great demand by the trade In all parts ofthe United States The firm's principal factory isat Matawan. N. J. About five hundred hands arcemployed, it :

-the constant aim of the firm to

Introduce new shapes every season. A considerablepart of the bu Inei consists of the wholesale casetrade. The linn carries ;m extensive Une of im-ported hats, and is justly celebrated for its tinePorto Rlcans and French palms. This firm Is un-doubtedly a strong leader In the straw hat trade.

staatinople, and they are easily the leaders of th»»drygoods houses of the world.

iiItKKFF A tO.

Qreeff »v Co., Importers nn.i commission mer-rbants. of No. MK4I2 Sprin^-st.. ne sole agents ofth<- }'lneuix silk Manufacturing Company. Themembers ol the rirm are ICmil. Hornhard andErnest F. Oreeff.

lIOEM.XOHAIS A CIiTISaVHoeninghaud & Cnrtlas, composed of F. Hoening-

hatis and 11. W. Curtis*, of No. 469-J7r> Drnome at-drygoods commission merchants, deal extensively indomestic and foreign dress silks, ribbons, novelties,neckwear, silks, etc.. . to.

COTTON GOODS.

L. PPIEOELBEmi * SON.-.COTTON GOODS

14.'.. HI. 14f> 151 "Greene St.. N. V.

ROBERT FRANKLIN ADAMS.MANUFACTURER OF FINISHED COTTON '\u25a0"• <X>OS».

»iran.l an«l M.'r,-»r jSt., N. T.

COTTON CLOTH AND YARN BROKERS.

PRAY & HOWARD,BROKERS COTTON Cl/VTHS AND YARN?.«a. 72 Leonard St.. N. V :•.'\u25a0•> Market S^i.. Provldfnc*.

DRESS GOODS.

EUGENE H. RLOCK.WOOLLEN AND WORSTED DRESS GOODS. ETC.

Corner Br.-.cm. i... Mercer St*.. N. V.

ufacturers and distributers of dry and fancy goods

in the world. This famous business is so closely

identified with the tremendous advance of Ameri-

can manufactures of dry goods, and especially theunequalled production of cotton wares, that It canbe safely said that the IT. B. Claflin Company hasbecome so renowned that even inthe remotest part*

of the world its reputation has extended and th«

demand for its merchandise has been established.Like all reallygreat business enterprises which are

built upon solid foundations, the H. B. Claflin Com-pany has taken many years to develop into the mar-vellous concern which is carried on to-day with itsheadquarters inNew-York City. The history of thiswonderful business is of the most interestingcharacter, a 3 showing what human enterprise,probity, steady perseverance, limitless

(energy and

hard work can accomplish. Horace B. Claflin, thefounder of the business, was born on December IS,

1811. In 1831. wher twenty years of age. he suc-ceeded his father in a general store business at

Milford. Mass.. and the following year a branchwas opened at Worcester. Mass. Here, it was thathe developed his original ideas of furthering theinterests of the drygoods trade. He inauguratednovel and vital changes in busines methods, par-ticularly in advertising. liealso soon realized theadvantage and importance of buying in the New-Tork market. Boston at this period having beenthe chief purchasing centre for the Massachusettsmerchants. The increase in his Worcester busi-ness had become so great, and the shrewd grasp

he had obtained of the marvellous opportunities

offered for successful trading in New-York, whichhad more than doubled its population since be nrst

started in business, that Mr. Claflin determined tolaunch an enterprise In the Queen City of theworld. In 1&13 he entered into a copartnershipwith William F. Bulkiey and founded the great

house which bears his honored name in all partsof the globe at No. 4»J Cedar-st.. starting with themodest capital of $30,000. Some idea of the growthof the business can be gathered from the tact thatIn 1853 itamounted to $1.000.000 In iB6O the businesstransacted reached about $13,500,000. The greatestpurely drygoods business the world has everknown was transacted by the firm in one year(1864) during the Civil War. the sales amounting tothe stupendous sum of J72.000.000. On June 16. l«?n.th« 11. B. Claflin Company was Incorported, witha capital of $9,000,000. fully paid up. The following

are the company's officers: John Clafltn. presi-dent; Edward E. Barnes, first vice-president: Johnr.ipen Eamps. second vice-president and generalmanager: Dexter N Force, treasurer: Stew-art W.Eames, assistant treasurer, and George E. Arm-strong, secretary. The H. B. Claflin Company havebranches in Manchester, Paris, Hamburg and Con-

duration with many of the most prominent houses

in Europe. Asia and Africa.One who had once, worn the exquisite beaver

skins, fox, ermine. Russian sable. Hudson Ba\*able, marten, chinchilla, minx, otter. Persianlamb. Astrakhan lamb. seal, badger, bear andother rich fura would never be likely to mistakeanything leas fine than the real article afterward.

;for the exquisite manner in which the Gunther

1 furs are treated render? them unmistakable in

richness of quality, purity of origin and style Cifinish. It is an education to visit their establish-ment and see the rare furs, learn from whencethey come and for what purpose they are \u25a0**"•At Gunther"a are seen fine robes and coachmen*outfits made of raccoon skins, which resemM*those of the black bear, only they are less ex-pensive. In robes of all sorts the wild beast* ofthe. forest have furnished to C. O. Gunthers Sonspelts unexampled in beauty and treated and maleup in a style which none can surpass.

Of all the industries that of manufacturing thepelts of animals into articles for the use of man-

ikind is the most ancient, and hardly a country;exists in which, to some extent, the skins of dit-1 ferent beasrs are not so us^d at the present tim*.:From the Arctic Circle to the tropics, and again1 southward to the Antarctic regions, the rurs ofiwild animals have contributed to the needs and

the comfort of mankind, and even in the TemperateZone we have learned to thoroughly appreciate theluxury and utilityof furs in view of the suddenchanges of temperature to which the vagaries or

iclimate, subject us.

| THE I.MTED STATES riIIMIWCOMPANY.

The largest finishing, blenching and dyeing plant

Iin the country is that owned by the United StatesiFinishing Company, an organization made up ofIthree immense works for the converting, printing,, dyeing, bleaching and finishing or woollen and cot-

ton goods, situated variously in Fasasic. N. .T.:Fawtucket. R. I. and Norwich. Conn. The com-panies which make up the one bigcorporation had'each before tr.eir consolidation established the

j highest possible reputation for the quality of theirwork. *o that demands upon them through theconverting trade, grew to enormous proportions.Large as these are the company In its present formis able to turn out work to any amount, as itscapacity is practically unlimited. The. three great

1 plants which hold so important a position in theUnited States Finishing Company are by no meansthe only ones which go to make up the works ofthat vast organization. Other splendid, it lessextensive, plants contribute to the resources andthe success of that company, and all alike areequipped with the latest processes of manufactureand the most perfect methods for carrying on theirwork.

Officers from the leading corporations which weremerged into ope were selected to control the af-fairs of the new company, which was incorporatedin im with \u25a0 capital of $.*.<V>>.C<vi. The UnitedStates Finishing Company does printing, dyeing

and finishing upon a varied class of fabrlca, siicbas shirtings, lawns, sleeve linings, cheviots, cam-brics', draperies, pantaloons, rubber cloth. Italianrolled silesias, Hollands, pocketlngs. colored duck.cretonnes and embo;.Fed linings, wigans. clastic,canvas, sheetings, hosiery and umbrellas. It is asort of paradox that the larger the company grows

and the more perfect its equipments become thefewer number of customers they have. Th» ex-planation of this is that the greatest Brass in thecountry are so pleased with the work executed forthem by the company that Instead of parcellingout different classes of their work to differentplants they turn all over to one. with results emi-nently satisfactory all around.

The officers of the United States Finishing Com-pany are men who have had long training in thelines of business in which they are engaged. Since*the incorporation of the United States FinishingCompany the various properties operated underthat name have gone on adding to their facilitiesnnd capacity, putting In th* very latest and mostperfect machinery and turning out goods whichnave no superior in the market. Thte combinationof interests gives employment at good wages tomany thousands of people, improves th" propertywhere the planrs and their factory villages arelocated, and puts upon the market millions ofyards of.fabrics of many klnd«. treated in the bestmanner known to modern arts, chemicals andmachinery.

.1. H. Wright is the president and general man-aKT and J. Hunt Smith the treasurer

The celebrated Norwich Bleaching. Dyeing andPrinting Company, the justly famous Dunneli Man-ufacturing Company, the Sterling Dyeing and Fin-ishing Company and the Reed & Barry Co. havegained and lost none of their prestige by becominga part of a greater corporation. Their rapacity forhandling work is vastly superior under the newmanagement, for the reason thai it has unlimitedcapital back of it and increased facilities forhandling business.

CUREXCE WHITMAN A CO.Holding on« of the very foremo.«t position* hi the

drygoods trade of the country, the firm of ClarenceWhitman £- Co.. of No.-. ro and 41 Ivonard-st..New-York City, withbranches In Chicago. St. .Louisar.d Philadelphia, is celebrated throughout th«»world's commercial community. No house in thetrade has done raor» to develop domestic manu-factures of drysoods, which it has forced to thefront In th* face nt imported poods of similarcharacter. no that the cr.i-oi:ras<"m«>r.r to Americanmanufacturers has been ar—tly strengthened byth» action of Clarence Whitman * Co. Domesticfabrics are fast overhauling and in many in-stances have caught up to and passed th» <iu<tiujof Imported materials, and manufacturers arenaturally stralniu every nerve, employing every< *nt of capital at their command and devoting theirlives and energies to produce j:oods that no othercountry can surpass, and thus keep th« consump-tion of every variety of drygoods ln the UnitedStates practically confined to those of domesticmanufacture. Owing to the increasing excellenceof domestic manufactures and the. support givento manufacturers by soca firms •>-> Clarence Whit-man &. Co., their pushing the sates of domesticgoods to the Jobbers and the retail trade, and th*latter, in their turn. Impressing the American pub-lic with the excellence of th< native productions ,the importing trade la rapidly rlndire keener com-petition. It was in ISIS, nearly a quarter of acentury ag». that the brothers K. C. and Clar neeWhitman established themselves in business InNew-York City as dr> goods commission merchant*,principally dealing in fancy drygoods, silks, cur-tains, etc. Such was the energy and abilityof these*two young merchant princes that their businessgrew- rapidly and quit.- kept pace with the increas-ing prosperity of the country. Expanding underthe system of fair trading, which was placed, con-ducted and still remains at the highest possiblestandard by the brothers Whitman, the fame oftheir business was quickly spread through th»length and breadth of the land. Th" name ofWhitman speedily became a household word amongthe jobbers and th«" retail trade in every State. Atno bouse could they secure £•"\u25a0>. is of better qualityat more reasonable i.•••.--. longer credit or fairerdealing than with the firm of K. C. & C. Whit-nan. Th« result of the prosperity and satisfactionderived by the customers of the tirm had Its natu-ral effect upon the development of it.- trade. Afterthe lamented death of Sir K. C. Whitman hisbrother. Mr. Clarence Whitman, succeeded to thebusiness, which finally adopted the firm name ofClarence Whitman A. Co. The, partners now are-Clarence Whitman. James S. Whitman. E. S.Twining.C. Morton Whitman and L.B. Frieze.

SHIRTS.

V HENRY ROTHSCHILD CO..MANUFACTURERS AND PEALERS IN SHIRTS.

43 Leonard St.. N. T.NEW COLUMBIA SHIRT CO..MAKERS OF TUB POPULAR NEW COLUMBIASHIRT.

\u25a0s«y.iroom>. "U. 7">l Bro*4way. N. T.

SILKS. SUITS AND COSTUMES.

J. & M. COHN.SILK its .wo COSTUME?.NO\ ELTIES in WOOL AND COTTON waists, SVUC

WAISTS. KTC.13». 101. JO3. IWV. 107. I'MOREBNE ST.. N. T.

Branch Factory. Newark. X. J.

SHIRTS. WAISTS, ETC.

HrTtrrcHixsox, pierce & coT•SHIRTS. WAISTS AND UNDERWEAR.

MADE UNDER THE FAMOUS "STAR" TRADEMAX*-R#eognliea tor y«ar» as th» standard mat*.

*42~54* BROADWAY. N. Y.

SILK GOODS.

ALFRED K. WRIGHT & CO..SILK SPECIALTIES FOR JtFG. TRADE.

83 Gf«n* 6t-._S:_Jj

SILKS AND SATINS.

RUE. HALLETT & HODONE.DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN SILKS AND SATINS.

402, 494 Broom* St.. v ':

UNDERWEAR, ETC.

A. W. PORTER A CO.. _„KNITI'NTHRWBAR. COMMISSION. EXPORT. ETC.

43. 43 White St.. X »•

BAMUEL P. BTTRRFIIu"

DISTRIBUTOR OF iIFRS.' KNITINDSR^E-tR-. ;_ ;»«. 2M ci»'"*h st- **•

|

-

WOOLLENS.

JEAN F. SCHIEB. \u25a0•

FOREIGN" TTOOLLEN3, \u0084 <••' 57 Gretas Wt

* T>

Th<» American silk manufacturer has pursued

a path similar to that of liif confrere in the

cotton industry. Two years .'•go the silk trade

-was in an extremely unsatisfactory condition.

It seemed at that time as if every mill man-acer had determined to make one class of goods.

and Hist ihe simplest and easiest to weave.Cheapness was the only Inducement offered to

the buyer. The result was seen in overproduc-tion, adulteration, assignments and general de-moralization. Bat when matters reach theirvorst they begin to mend. The manufacturers«jnakc up i" the situation. Diversifying theirjiroduct. they avoided th" piling up of merchan-dise, and instead of selling goods on the ab-surd basis of -"a new dollar for *nold one" were*ocn in a position to make a ii\ingprofit. The."beginning of 11V12 found scarcity and high prices

.-•where a year before had been heavy bocks andA>ottornless prices.

The manufacturers of silk ribbor have also.pood reason to congratulate themselves on theyear's operations. '\u25a0\u25a0 demand for this classfafmerchandise has been irdinary. for rib-t>ons have achieved unwonted popularity with(the fair sex. being now pal to a larger number

\u25a0C ii-.- than at any foimer period.Importations of manufactures of silk in 1902

samouii:. t to $32,640,212. This was In excess, of•the importations cf liii: ($3L,172.594) and of1597 (525.19f-l.o<J7>. due largely to the increasedITavor shown to velvets ::n<l ribbons. The steadyjprowth of the American silk industry is provedfey the constant inereas<- of importations of rawsilk, which in the riscai year 1902 were valuedSt 141.714 \u25a0

\u25a0 agaln«a \u25a0 .- '.'l^._iv: in IS.!? andi25,063.87!< in 181*2.

Producers of men's wear woollens have scoredc> very satisfactory year. The demand has kept.close to the supply, and with an exceptionally*trong market for raiv materials there baa been«-verything to encourage clothiers and other con-sumers to provide not only for Immediate but£or future wants. Th" same holds true of Cab-rics suitable for the manufacture of women'stuner garments.

The importations of men's wear woollens de-creased from 12.513.27H pounds in 1802' and 27.-K"i:4.:;Jl pounds In LfciSi to 1,730.999 pounds in3302.

Woollen materials for women's dresses and•\u25a0ostumes have been in remarkably large de-mand throughout the year. One of the chiefoutlets for such products is furnished by thePhir.,ent manufacturing industry, which of lateyears has assumed enormous proportions. Thereare now very few women who disdain to wear aready made coat or suit, while, costumes of anexceptionally elaborate character are success-fully and profitably made in a limited numberof factories.

All this has lessened the pale ot dress fabricsby the yard. In fact, two years ago retailers\u25a0were sorely exercised as to the loss of profit, In«=uch lines, yet during 1:« r the great majority ofdress goods departments have reported in-creased sales to the extent of 40 per cent; this,too, in the face of an expansion equally greatin the distribution of garments.

Importation of dress poods decreased from78,573.033 square yard? in 1592 to 52.555.042.Here comparison with ISft" is not possible, astinder the Wilson tariff duty was assessed atrates per pound instead of by measurement.

Throughout the year the textile industry hasbeen unusually free from strikes, the only im-portant struggle being that of the dyers' help-ers in the Xew-Jersey «ilk mills. After a. ces-sation cf twelve weeks, which deprived hun-dreds of other operatives of work by shuttingoff the supply of raw material, the strike wasdeclared off. the employers declining to accedeto the operatives' demands.

The knlr goods industry is a branch of textilemanufacture in which a most gratifying degreeof success has been achieved by American mills.Our imports of knit underwear and particu-larly of hosiery steadily decline, in the face ofour rapidly Increasing population, while the out-put of American mills as continuously grows.This branch of Industry has shared very fullyin the prosperity which has marked the year.

Th«! dlfßculty right along has been to keep pace•»\u25a0 i«h the demand, and this more especially inthe underwear section of the trade.

Our imports of cotton krit goods, which in thefiscal year ISS2 were valued at $5,833,652, andIn 1897 at 55.596.703. amounted in the fiscaly«*r of 1902 to 5"

"'"'"15. Imports of wool

knit •Toode. which in IMC were valued at $1,-362.853. and in 1897 at $2..V'1.«(08. have declined•until this year they reached" the small figureof 5571rfi6s.

The importation of cotton knit goods is con-fined to r»rrain kinds, mote especially fineribbed u^:*- ar for women and the lace andembroidered kesiery now so popular. But forthe favor shown to the last named article im-T-iruLtion? would show a far greater decline,in fact.' German manut'ncturers- describe the

\u25a0\u25a0^rfwnt jar' on as ;'-.-:r "salvation." recognlz-

While, however, the new mills art; compara-

tivelyfew. the extensions of old plants and the

increase of production by the introduction of

Improved machinery must not be owrlooked.

In the South mills of onus* large capacity

have r*-»n begun, and in one or two cases com-

An Important feature of th° year 5n tex-

tiles ras been the improvement and greater dl-versification of the product. Many cotton millsIn New-England which formerly produced fab-

rics of a simple and distinctly staple character

f-.avr undergone-

complete change in equip-

snent. They have been "rigged up" to spin yarns

«fmuch finer count, BAd to weave them into the

novelty materials which, by their originality

»nd attractiveness, command a much hicher

price. This commendable step has been taken

•by the management as a result of the steady

JnVrcase of Southern mills md the continuous

progress made in the production of goods higher

Ivqua.lHv and more carefully woven. The print-

ing of cotton fabrics has been elevated to a fine

'iui In the rnited States, as elsewhere, and the

combined energy and enterprise of weaver an<l

printer have placed upon the market fabricspearly as diaphanous in texture and beautiful Indesign --,: any that can be imported.

Despite th» progress made by American manu-

facturers, we still continue to import <-onsid<-ra-

"We quantities of printed goods, the quantity

"being 32.*0TJ23S square yards In 1892. 35,H37^_f»

Fduare yards in-

•:. and 15.440.314 square

•\-ards hi IW£. This anomaly is explained by

Ihe desire' for individuality of design, since In jpoint, of both quality and beauty the American

pooris are a close second. to those of France and

Switzerland. On the other band, our importa-

tions of "gray" or unfinished cotton fabrics have

decreased from 1.572.224 square yards in I*o2and 3.177.211 square yards in iv»T to <42,011

In \u25a0\u25a0>:

AKTKO the drygoods trade

as a whole, the last twelve-month has been .i profita-ble one. in place of.the«ccunrulation which twoyears ago was a somewhatmarked feature of

"more

than one branch of dry-goods production, difficulty

has been experienced in fill-ing orders. Higher prices

*iiv*»naturally followed.

The strength thus ensuing has been increasedriy steadily advancing quotations for raw ma-

terials. Silk, wool and cotton have been in lib-

eral demand, and with a. supply below rather

Than above requirements the market has beencontinuously sustained. This is especially trueof spool, which, owing to the prolonged drouth

in Australia, v.ill Isssely reach still higher fig-

ure*.

It Is somewhat remarkable that, despite thegratifying, demand for textile, fabrics through-

out the year, there has been no reckless increasejn the number of plants. Probably this con-servatism is attributable, in part, to the num-

ber of other opportunities for the investmentof capital which have been provided, and, inpart again, 'n the high rates which money hasgenerally commanded.

Revival of Rug Making—

It Is a RegularBusiness Now Carried on Under

Modern Methods.of tbe most remarkable aspects in the

development of American commerce has beent!.. growth ani progress of the trad'- in theflnoi coverings of the Orient, particularly Inthose coming from the rup provinces of Persia,wiij.-hhave been famous since th<-- most *n<-iomday? I>.r thr- products of their looms, only :i

few years ago, well in the memory of lovers ofOriental art. American trade In Oriental rup;s

\va? confined to a few liou:-^ In the larger c -itl'-s".It was dependent, moreover, upon thi- periodicarrival of invoices of old ruKs collected in Tur-kej and Persia, together with some modernrugs m brightcolors.

Coming from regions far distant from oneai other and totally different in condition? andsurroundings, these products of the Kasternweaver's art presented a medley of weave andoolortac from the crude and shaggy s lrir,s thathad covered the tent-floor of the Kurdish chtefin his mountain retreat, to the exquisite gems Ofmost delicate color and perfect workmanshipthai the master weavers of Ispahan had wovenfor the paze of royal princes.

The standard? of true art being universal,It was natural for lovers of art in Americato be attracted by the quaint yet marvellousbeauty of color and design in the choicest ofOriental nips, which before long found their\u25a0way to the homes of the educated and refinedpeople throughout the country. The Kuropeanmarkets, however, had also their demand forthese collections from the mansions and shrinesof the Orient, and soon the stream* bogan to

run dry. first here and then there. Within a

decade the Oriental rug trade has undergone aremarkable revolution, in consequence of its pe-culiar character.

From accidental beginnings, with haphazardshipments and a course of trade without anyapparent foundation for development, the im-portation of Oriental rugs has come to have afixed and prominent plac as an established andimportant branch of American commerce withthe Orient. At the outset a new collection ofantique rugs reaching the American marketwould create a new demand, and forthwith col-lectors wouM ransack all the unfrequentei cor-ners of the Oriental provinces to secure thechoicest pieces of the kind, and for a time therewould come shipments of rugs that delightedthe lovers of Oriental art with their beauti'ul*heen. gorgeous color schemes and the soft tintsof sunset skies. And then, when the collectorhad done his work, it was the end. Thus it isthat what ten years ago were articles of com-merce are to-day to be sought as curiosities,and antiques of Bokharas. Kazaks, Karabaghsand Iranf. of all graies are passing into thesame category.

To bring out of this situation a stable con-dition of trade that would be susceptible of de-velopment in proportion to the demand was theproblem that had to be solved.

The foundation of this modern enterprise was

FROM LOOMS OF PERSIA

trip the enormous strides made by Americanmanufacturers in the production of other lines.

With importers of drygoods 1902 has been anequally prosperous year. Perhaps the lace andembroiders' field has led in the race, for fashionhas, favored the use of these materials in anexceptional degree. Here, too, American enter-prise has made itself felt, and not only havenew factories been installed in this country, hutolder establishments have increased their out-put very materially.

Kid gloves have met with an unusually grati-fying consumption, and here likewise importinghouses have scored, while our domestic manu-facturers have largely increased their alreadyextensive business. <

A drygoods business which has sprung" upwithin recent years in this country is the manu-facture of neckwear for women. All sorts ofnovel conceits In neck dressing have been in-troduced, many of these being of most elaborateand costly character. At a time of such un-exampled prosperity as the present these articlesof luxury rind ready sale, and their productionhas proved >xtrentely remunerative.

Among distributers of drygoods evidences ofprosperity are very apparent. Failures havebeen unusually few. and such as have occurredhave been due to special conditions, which Insome eases dated back a number of years. Onthe other hand, the year has witnessed a mar-vellous development of the facilities for doingbusiness. A Chicago wholesale house, has justmoved into newly erected premises covering al-most the entire area of two city blocks, andhaving a floor space equivalent to sixteen acres.A great retail bouse In the same city has en-larged its quarters until the area employed forthe selling and handling of merchandise is closeto four acres In Philadelphia largo, exten-; sione have been effected by drygoods firms, oneof these contesting the palm for extent of storewith the Chicago retail house just referred to.In our own city we have seen an old estab-

fished retail firm remove to a newly built storewhich, it is believed, holds the record for size inthis country. Another retailer is to build amodern department store on the site of the storevacated. And. meanwhile, an entirely new re-tail establishment of considerable proportions

j ha* been added to New-York's already long listof drygoods establishments. All over the coun-

!try the story is Hi. same. Scarcely a city, from! the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the northern:border to he Gulf, but can boast its new store!buildings and enlargements of existing plants.

Th" outlook for the coming year Is very fa-vorable for manufacturers and distributers <>ftextiles. The advance sales of cotton fabricsfor spring consumption have exceeded all previ-ous records. Manufacturers of wool andworsted dress materials have disposed of thebulk of their production of spring merchandise.an<3 are now preparing samples of autumn fab-vies for the inspection of the buyers for whole-Rale houses and the larger retail stores, whowill,early in February, visit the market with aview to placing orders.

In view of the higher prices on wool, moreespecially the high grade Australian variety,which is essential to the production of fineworsted fabrics, it Is a foregone conclusion -thatthese collections of new st\ !• s will be openedat an advance over the spring lines. Indeed, tosuch an extent r:re manufacturers in the dark astc how far the increase In values will go thaithe opening of these collections willbe deferredlo the latest possible date.

j Manufacturers of silk will continue for some| time to tarn out spring lines. The prospect for

this branch of the Industry is such as shouldencourage every American mill manager, as wellas every importer. A large demand for silksduring V.*<: Is assured, for many v 111 be theuses of such fabrics, in addition to the call forsilk« for making up garments, large quantities"f taffetas will he required for linings. The.tendency in wool dress materials for spring petsstrongly toward the upe of diaphanous weaves,which must be made over a drop skirt of Bilk.In addition cotton fabrics of a sheer, gauzycharacter, which will be liberal] employed dur-ing the heated term, must of necessity be madeover a filk foundation, affording another ex-tensive outlet for the queen of fabrics.

This Rtati of affairs Is far from conducive toth<> interests of the mills producing cotton lin-ing?. There is always a certain demand for theheavier grades of surii fabric*, for this is hcountry of vast extent, numbering many na-tionalities among its people. Very !ine qualitiesof percalines are also in perennial demand.Nevertheless, Bilk has largely replaced cottonfor lining purposes, and willcontinue to do so.

In the commission nun jobbing houses of New-York's wholesale drygoods district expansion Isthe watchword for ]'\u25a0*>'\u25a0'-. A very few old estab-lished firms will withdraw from business, butthe active members of thoir personnel will joinother concerns, contributing thereto addedstrength and vitality.

All over the country preparations are beingmade tor a year ofincreased and profitable busi-ness. Vow employes of drygoods houses, whole-sal» and retail, but can find places— a sun- proofof satisfactory conditions within the tr:«d<\

With a continuance of the remarkable pros-perity of the la*V"few years, the textile indus-try cannot but duplicate in the coming twelve-month the satisfactory record of 1902

SAMUEL H. DITCHManapin? Editor of "The Dry Goods Econo-

mist."

LOOKING WEST IN WALIrST.Trinity ch,ir.ii on the fur'ii'r sM<^ of Broadway, blocks I)..- %!<•.\u25a0. The United States Bub-Treas-

ury, with ' • of \Vashlngton. on ifi<- ri«ht. On the left, almost behind the lamppovt, 1« theentrance I \u25a0 and banking bouse of J. \u25a0'. Morgan, ;>t th. soul \u25a0 M •-:•\u25a0\u25a0 •\u25a0C Broad andWall

"The den and has* been almost too great to fill."Bald Mr. Shayne. "Garments have been made offrom Fix to eighteen skins, and those of th* popular

color and size sHi for about ??.:/">. Muffs, with stole*to match, have* been in demand. The-v; have nold at

from U.SOO to 12,900 Among the large sales Ihaverecorded are one for $3,000, for a cloak and muff;onefor $7,150, for a cape, muff and neck piece; one of18.000, for a cloak and muff, and one of $0,500, for arobe. Comparing my business this year with thatof 1901J In October this year It «m 50 per centlarger; In November. 15 per cent larger, and in De-cember. a per cent larger."

The stone marten, which in farmer yean wasBold as a. substitute lor Russian sable. has not beenpopular. These Bkins were often dyed to make \u25a0<

better imitation. Now, the whole demand seemsto be for natural skins.

Other fur* th I h:ive been used extensively thisseason are th" sea otter which sold at from P.OOOtr» $2,000; silver fox. which sold at from $200 to Ji.-

100, and natural black fox, which sold at from $1-500 to $.i.'>>.'. Chinchilla; mink awl ermine have alsobeen sold in large quantities. Chinchilla, the mostdelicate an<i silken of .-ill fur, has been shown thisseason In a very fln< quality. The fur Is lone andwonderfully line In texture, hi,o has been muchBought after In mak.fni; muffs, boas, trimmings andlinings for coat*. Mink, which is susceptible ofbeing made into almost an: article of apparel, thepelt being very soft and pliable, has been chieflyused in capes and jackets. The fur of the ermine,

which Is only from eight to twelve incnes lot K. isbeing used for robes, linings and trimmings.

Siberian squirrel Is being used more mis yearthan ever before for muffs, stoles .md trimmings.

The work of placing the nklns of all these smallanimals together Is a very important factor In themanufacture of a garment, and matching theMrii><\s and shades of the furs necessitates .iselec-tion of great care. This, with the workmanship,greatly increases the cost of a garment. Now thatthese skins have become popular for capes andcloaks the fur dealers arc making nn extra profiton the work on garments.

Sealskins on account of their great beauty andsuitableness for articles such as jackets, mantlesand cloaks, as they are readily formed to lit thebody, and are not cumbersome In appearance, havt:

'been shown in exceptionally fine, grade? TheAlaska. whins have been the most highly valued,with the so-called Northwest Coast skins nearly asfin*. Those from Copper Island (one of th. Aleu-tian group) have been next in point of excellence.while the Lobes Island (Cape Hope), Tiobhln islandand Japanese have been of fair quality. All theseskins are difficult to judge, as there are twenty-onedifferent qualities in colored sealskins.

AMERICAN WOOLEN COMPANY.Some idea of the Immense business done in the

manufacture of woolen and worsted fabrics In thiscountry la gained from the fact that the AmericanWoolen Company owns and operates no less thantwenty-seven groups of thirty-three plants. Theseplants occupy 610 acres of land. The mills run426.627 spindles and C.437 looms, and give employ-ment to 22.000 person.' The company is capitalizedat 00,000.000. The m. who have so ably finan-ciered and managed th. valuable properties areFrederick Ayer. president; William W. Wood,treasurer; Edward W. Chapin, assistant treasurer-Joseph T. Shaw, secretary, and an efficient boardof directors, composed of Frederick Aver Will-iam W. Wood. Charles It. Flint. James PhillipsJr., Edwin C. Seift. John Hogg, Francis W. Klt-tredge. Samuel P. Colt. Edward i*. Chapin and J.Clifford Woodhull. Great care is shown in theselection of the wool used in these mills.

C. L. IIAI'MIKIt& CO.One of the oldest and most important houses en-

gaged in the cotton goods trade is C. 1,. Bausher& Co.. of New-York, Boston and Chicago. TheNew-York establishment Is located at Nos. 32 34and .*• Thomas-.- 1.. The business was originallyestablished in Boston by Gardiner Brewer & CoThey are the selling agents for the products of theM?utTvln™Slu"ri^?r pany and the AnK.ry

BOETTCER A HIXZE.Boettger ft Hinze. of No. 500 Broome-nU andworks at Nos 734-744 East One-hundred-and-forty-fourth-st.. have made a reputation for care-ful and delicate, work in finishing broad silk goods.

BATTELLE, HIRD A CO.One of the leading firms in the drygoods commis-

sion business Is that of Battelle. Hurd & Co. Thefirm has offices at Nos. 53 and 65 Worth New-York, and No. 100 Arch-st, Boston.H. B. CLAFLI* COMPAXY.

With the marvellous growth of New-York Cityand its almost Incredible advance as the QueenCity of the world's commerce must be associatedthe firm and gradual development of the H. B.Claf-llnCompany, the largest importers, exporter?, man- j

C. G. GtXTHER'S SOX?.A fur importing and manufacturing company

\u25a0that is so ancient and so representative as to forman important detail In the growth and grandeurof modern New- York 1p that of C. G. Gunther'pSons, of No. 184 Flfth-av*., established in 1820.Thiß house brings to the fur trade nearly a centuryof knowledge and experience in the purchasing andhandling of furs, and it has exceptional facili-ties for securing raxe. furs, skhis and pelts, nwiajto its connections of nearly one hundred years"

.J. W. GODDARD »v so.\«.Established in 1847 by the late J. W. Goddard.

one. of the leading houses In the dryßoodp trade oithis country is J. W. Goddard & Sons. The firmis celebrated throughout the trade in the UnitedStates, England and Europe, as being th*> onlylarge house In the world that covers the wholefield of linings and trimmings for the clothing,tailoring and drygooda trades it carries also allkinds of buttons, braids and buckles for the cloth-ing and trimming trades. Like many of the hugemercantile bouses of New-York City, this businesswas started in \u25a0 modest way. and gradually ex-panded with the trade of the metropolis. The lateJ. W. Goddard began business in .i small storeat No. 57 Willlam-st.. and his integrity and strictbusiness methods caused the business to growrapidly. From time to time the firm removed tomore commodious premises, until finally it settleddown In a home of its own in 1881, at n>j.-. PS. 100and 102 Bleeeker-st. The firm was reorganized onJanuary 1. 1301. by the admission as partners ofVvnmer A. Baldwin and Joseph Mathers both orwhom had been with the house twenty-five year?

A pleasing feature in connection with the firmis the spirit of harmony which exists among it.«employes. Treated with generosity, considerationand justice, every employe feels an enthusiasticpleasure in working for the firm, as he would forhimself, and this is without doubt a factor in thecommercial prosperity of the firm. Captain *.Norton Goddard is the present head of the houseCaptain Goddard. aside from commercial circles. isalso a. conspicuous figure in the public life of New-York City, his efforts as leader of the XXth Assem-bly District, to secure good municipal governmentfor the metropolis, have been gratefully appre-ciated by all.

nt\K EXPORT AMI COMMISSION COMPANY.The Cone Export and Commission Company, of

Nos. 74-7fi Worth-.st.. New -York, and Greensboro.X. C. has been extremely suec esful In Introducingthe cotton Roods produced by the new Southernmills.THE DOIIERTY A WADSWORTH COMPACT.

The Doherty &- Wadswortn Company^ >r Nos.138-110 Spring \u25a0• New-York, with mills at Paterson-N. .1.. hiv extensive manufacturers of dress andneckwear -Ilk.'-, and have built up .\u25a0 large trade.

GAKIUSOX. WRKiHT A CO.Garrison. Wright .v .•,,.. importers of ladles'

dress trimmings, laces and buttons at No* 636 ami538 Broadway and No. 35 Spring-st., do" on ex-tensive business In their lino.

DYERS AND BLEACHERS.

RERNIIEIMKR & WALTER.~

PRINTERS. BLEACHERS. DYERS OF COTTON" GOODS12l> Franklin St.. N. v'

FANCY GOODS AND NOTIONS.

S. E. HOWARD'S SON" A CO..FANCY GOODS AND NOTIONS.

IS Mercer St.. x. V

GLOVE MANUFACTURERS.A. H. FISCHER & CO..

"*" "MFRS. AND IJirTRP. KIP AND SUEDE CLOVES

j «>4 Br.v>m< St.. N.V.PAUL FLOQUEfT,

~~~GLOVES MADE OF LEATHER

[ 58. FlO Greene •) . x. <r.REYNIER FRERES CELEBRATED GLOVESH. A. CAESAR & CO. m. BERTHAUD. MGR >-

Annex. 47. \u25a0\u25a0*& White St v y.SCHWARTZ. 6CHIFFER * CO.

GLOVE MANUFACTURERS.. Broadway. N. T.T. T. REYNOLDS •

~ -MAGGSOKU FRANCESCO KID GLOVES -,:>""*>to 9* Grand St.'. X. T.

6DRYGOODS.

4Ppfv

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