NEW- YORK DAILY TRIBUNE. SUNDAY. DECEMBER 21. 1902-

Giplife'^CL-J?%;Ob, fair Japan: Oh, rare JapanMvittrious languor seems to hangO'er mountains, plain and rill;An unreality oflife.Does all the senses fill.

iWAVY KNOTSdesigned to meet themost advanced ideasof gocd taste and cor-rect style. They 3re

always 3 ready finish-ing touch to the com-pletion of the coiffure.

GRAY HAIRfor ELDERLYLADIES

WIGSFOR LADIES.

TOUPEESFOR GENTLEMEN.

HAIR DRESSING.Shampooing. Manicuring and Scalp Treatment.

L. SHAW54 WEST 14TH STREET

PompadourS

llnimiP nidav PERLES NINONUillllUy Uto'Jmi Th» newest and most Perfect* \u25a0 *

imitation of real Pearls. In

OF necklaces and I^a \allleres.r etc Set with real or Simlll

PARISIAN »SE WinAll!CD!IT N>w creations.

XSublime Ex-

981 OilIrrS|rj pi,.,.,.,,

imperil Kxqutsla.

i:p,jimMEs.::7TH ST.. WKST. .\K.\K ."TH AYE.

SOME WAYSOF THE WORLL HAPPY l-AK-AXVAY I.AMY BY KITH KIMKAI.L ZIMMKRMAX'S. 1-V, 1)ITII-AVK.. NKW-YOKK CITY^

LIGHTING MODERN HOMES.

A. A. Vantine& Co.,

Broadway and JBth St.

OPEN MONDAY & TUESDAY EVENING.

You will rind numerous Ar-tistic and Useful things inthisUnusual Store that makeattractive gifts.

LambrequinsOfsilk and satin, heavily em-broidered, in gold and silk,

5.00 6.5° 7.50 io.s° 12.°°

All Wool Kimonos, inOriental patterns, with sashto match, lined, at

9.00 and 13.50

Japanese KimonosThe ideal house gown.

Kanka Crepe, silk lined,combinations of Reds, Pinks,Blues and Gra\'s at

15.00 to 25.00

Dainties qfAncient Origin Made for( 'hristmas Festivities.

In German household.-- nt Christmas a sn/ia-e

cake Is presented to every maid and man whoserves tha house, to every guest at supper, as wellas to the children, who receive th" gifts from atai>!>- mar th- I'hrlMmas tree, heaped high withsquares Of Cake. There nre sweetmeats, too. hung

on the tree, but it is- principally these square rakes.

GERMAN HOLIDAV CAKES

trie lights in small bulb«.. are sf>t,wrought brass,ornaments, with tips of gas. concealed in them

Afavorite adornment for brass lights is the heart

of a cowled monk. One large head hangs «™m four

chains, and above it rise four branches, holdintrsquare candlesticks. Another monk head holdsan oldtime English lantern of brass In a wire

\Vntle most of the lanterns come in dull oldbrass of rich weight and quality there is a de

mand for the beautiful green articles of §«' 1b?1b ?

and copper. These green effects are peculiarly ap

propriate to certain rooms, as. for Instance to

libraries and dens furnished In weathered oak. for-est green furniture or Oriental effects, or to coun-try homes, or to many dining rooms and halls.

Many of the handsomest bronze figures for hold-ing lights are made in Connecticut, and the beautj

of these often surpasses that of similar articlesimported from abroad. In this work nearly asmany girls and women are employed as men, al-

though men do nearly all the designing. A\ omen,

however, do most of the finishing, and dp it beau-tifully It I? said that the expression of the faceand much of the. grace of the figure are broughtout in the finishing process, and that the womenwho do good finishing work upon bronze and brassare real artists. ,

Not only In the way of bronze and brass rind

stained glass ornaments for holding lights hasAmerica become expert In manufacture, but In

the making of fine lamps or porcelain, fine chinaand a ware that, for the purposes of this article.1

may be called Bohemian glass, since it is th< samesort of thing in appearance.

A beautiful American lamp has a scheme of deco-ration that is all soft green and white. Raphaelscherubs float from a green cloud on the base and

globe of the lamp. Another rich design shows agreen snake coiling about the lamp, and a peacockIn natural colors Is killingit.

Xext to the Importance of having lights just asfashion decrees comes the method in which they

should be dressed or shaded. Colored glass bill

shaped- like Mower petals are used to a considera-ble extent, but more often the electric bulbs andlamps and candles are adorned with lovely ar-rangements of diaphanous materials.

A pretty shade is mad" of deep red poppies Inalternate "petals of stamped velvet and silk, Ja-panese grasscloth seems to lend itself to coveringsfor lamps. The grass has delightful art colors anda certain gloss that remains upon it even afterpaint has been applied. The favorite way to makelamp shades of this appears to be to fold thematerial fan fashion and adorn It in any desiredway.

Yellow is the favorite color in lamp shades, andnext in point of popularity comes green. Pink.Of course, holds .own; it is too becoming to bediscarded; and so is red. One lovely yellow shadela made of crinkled whit' mousseline over yellowsilk. It is covered with deep rulbes, and eachruffle Is erlged with a band an Inch wide of yel-low crinkled silk, with pinked edges and a sug-gestion of a scallop. This band shades from lightto deep yellow.. At the upper part of the shadeare large yellow orchids, with. long, pale leaves ofa golden green tint.

Shades made of flower petals In cascades appearto be the favorites for small candles, but the in-genuity is taxed to produce odd shapes and effectsin candle shades. There are painted delft shadesan. l Inverted roses, and all manner of charmingfloral designs. The small shades of real stainedglass are dainty, and often costly, for they aremade by special artists and require skill and care.

Many women earn their living manufacturinglamp shades. Two young girls make an Incomefrom stained glass shades. Another woman madesuch a success with her novel designs and effectsin these dainty ornaments that she now has afactory of her own. run entirely by women, whereshe carries on a strictly wholesale trade.

will keep only the best almonds and sngar may be

used. Pure almonds and pure. sugar form the paste,

which is pressed Into forms and sold often in fla.cake" richly ornamented. It is usually painted withnon-poisonous color*, especially the fruit designs ofpears or apples which are used to put on the Christ-mas tree, it is presumed th.it this cake was orig-

inally made in Venice, for its name indicate!, acorruption of two words, marcl panes, or St. Mark abread, and St. Mark is the patron saint ot \ eniceImported from Italy when Venice was the f .iris orthe world it found favor in Germany and was so

completely naturalized that it has become distinct-ly a German product. It is still made In Venice,

but only to a small extent, and is by no means ascelebrated us that of Germany, while the very heartIs made in the northern part of Germany. In I^ibeckand Kdnlgsberg. The formula by which it is manu-factured in these cities Is this:

one pound of blanched almonds, one pound orpowdered sugar, three ounces of rosewater. Putthe almonds, a few at a, time, through a meat chop-

per add the rosewater. and pound them in a mortar

until as line as flour. Put them into a porcelainlined saucepan and add the powdered sugar, rolledfree from lumps. Stir over a slow fire until whentouched it no longer adheres to th» ringer, but donot let it gel too dry. Dredge a kneading hoar.iwith powdered sugar. Turn the mixture out uponthe board, roll It out until i;is an inch in thick-nes-; adding more powdered sugar to the surfaceand to the rollingpin. if necessary to prevent stick-Ing. The marzipan can be rolled out to form onelarge round cake, or cut into squares or diamondBhapea or pictures In relief can be imprinted upon

GERMAN CHRISTMAS AND HOLIDAY CAKES.

IAPeaceful and Happy Time Turned

Into a Burdensome Season.***Tlstrue, 'tis pity, and pity 'tis 'tis true," that

•-' Joyous Yuletide, which, according to tradition\Iand custom, should bring cheer and happiness to

J all. is becoming every year more and more of aIserious and Insupportable tax. and is consequently'* really dreaded by all whose responsibility makes

them Bed that they must me* its obligations,

whether they can afford it or not.

•'I should enjoy Christmas Immensely/ groaned

: a men with a limited income. "Iflcould only feel

that 1 could give simple gifts to my family, and• perhaps a few Intimate friends, and that good-

wlU to all and good cheer would make up the rest.

But when Iknow that my wife expects somethinghandsome, that my sons are looking forward tolarge contributions from the "governor"; that mylasnH

to all good

must each have a costly pres-

But when T krav that my wit. ci ething

handponr. that my sons are looking forward tolarpe contributions from the "Igwvemor"; that my

as^aanaap daughters m i (1"11

-prea-

«it: that Imust be s»nially generous to ms em-

ployes at the office: that Imust subscribe credita-bly to the donation lists at every club 1 belong to;

i that Icannot wish a .Merry Christmas to the post-

j|| man, milkman, iceman, ashman, to say nothing

!l of the grocer's and baker's mm and a ho?t of

1 others without handing out a crisp bill at the

if same time, while every servant in the house smiles!{ at me expectantly in passing, and expects largesselas his or her due— when, asIsay.

the

these

smilesat iri»> px:irit3nt!y in pamtmr. .inn -vi\u25a0—•ts i.

a* his or her toe sihen. as laay. all th—

ohttga-

'L- tions and many more have become the necessary

I'l concomitant of the blessed season, and the burden»] of the aggregate ;wma heavier than 1ran stagger

Iunder, no wonder that Idread Christmas for area k;«

\u25a0"« beforehand, and feel a great sense of relief wheni it is over."

It is the extravagant standard of the times thatI• is ruiningour oldtimc Christmas. A gift that is not. costly seems Inadequate to the donor, who feels

• that he would better not give at all than to giver. .any simple token of goodwill, a feeling which, of

I!course, Is quite wrong and Is In direct contradiction\ to the Christmas spirit of olden days. It Is hard1 nowadays for those who cannot afford to give any

Ibut the simplest gifts to see others kef-ping the fea-Ilival with lavish expenditure, and many a childif returns from the homes of her playmates saddenedillby the Inevitable contrast which, however, it seemsVt\ a. pity she should have to realize bo early Injife.

[ "It was so lovely and Christmassy." said a little1 girl wistfully,speaking of the home Of one of herj!small friends, where she had been lunching. "TheyH were all tellinz of the lovely presents they were

||1 expecting, and 'what they were going to give everyH one, and after luncheon Mrs. X and Mollydrove

HN off in their beautiful open landau with tho frontWi seat piled up with little boxes, each tied up withij.lred satin ribbon and a bit of holly, while Iwalked

THE FIFTH WHEEL.

Durine \u25a0 domestic crisis a few weeks ago Mrs.

Smith coTxluded that a fifth wheel to the coach

was necessary to lessen the work in each depart-

ment, and decided that the fifth wheel should, be aboy of the suedes known familiarly as "buttons."

"He can answer the door," she said, "and thatwill heto the waitress. He must carry up all thewood and coal, and that win relieve the house-maid, besides doing a lot of things to help the cook.1 am sure he will be a great comfort." The nest

question was where to get ,-, reliable boy. andfinally, throuKn a downtown mission, she engaged

are with. Some persons who are charming In onesituation are not at all attractive In another, al-though they themselves may be precisely the same.Iremember, for Instance.*" aha continued pensively,

"falling in love in Germany, and fa'ling very muchout of it In London al! on account of the different;

point of view, for the man himself had notchanged,

but my German soldier baron, who seemed '-ke ahero of romance in Germany, looked so queer and

<'ifTorer.t from the fltsnn* n l knew when he

came over to pee me in civilians areas, that all my

liking for him vanished.""Yes. iknow how that Is." answered the man to

whom she was speaking. 'I. too. had the samc \u25a0 f»x-

porlence. 1 happened on* year to si end a fewwe.ks on the coast Of Maine, and there was alittK>maid. llieie in a P»nk sunbonn«-t. who was

too tolling for anything. She was spending thesummer with her people, lain sort of ParU^whOdidnt much count- Well, we became great fiivnds.2nd Icame very near making a great fool of my

Belf\u25a0 rtunatol> however. lwaited to make sure

of my fe-lings. but Iwas most impatient for berre-tnrn'to New-York, and called immediately. WellI had a sho.-k". Gowned in a Kev-Yorfe streetdi-ex* she w.-is a different creature— and her homelooked stuffy and altogether unattractive. 1 had

Ih7'»m hv\u25a0 . \u25a0 though Iatn b>

no means of a fickle nature, that visit was my first.. . V;j- vei the rirl »as undoubtedly the namenice little thing that Ihad so nearly lost my heartio in ."e summer. it just shows as you say, whatcreatures of circumstance we all are.

CARDS DISCLOSE THE MAN.

•1 wish Ihad not played bridge with Mr. X—."

said a irfrl recently- "1 thought him so nice bo-

fore and now my liking for him baa quite gone.

He was bo keen about trifles, Insisted upon every

forfeit. Questioned th- score, and seemed so an-noyed when he lost, and yet the stakes were very

small and he was only out .-. few dollars, bo, ofcourse it was not th- money, Itmu?t have been thedteoositlon of the man coming out under

fprovoca-

tion and the test did not show him up to advan-tage Now. Mr. 7. . the Other man at the table.waV"so good natured ad such a gentleman In hisl.lay that Iquite like him. although 1 neverthnusrht him attractive before.

"'

A.ll games of competition may be said to assay

certain characteristics, but the most crucial testseems to be card playing, and bridge is responsiblefor many a coolness resulting from Belt-betrayal

at the tan en table.

FIFTHAYE.

LINENSTORE.

Handkerchiefsmake the most appropriate anduseful gift. No article of mer-

chandise is given more exten-sively than Handkerchiefs.

Nowhere can be found a moregenerous line, nor a better one,

of Pure Linen only.land embroidered initial Handkerchiefs of fine

French Linen in sheer and medium weight at 23c.each.

Swiss embroidered Handkerchiefs, some -withlace edges, at 25c. 50c.. 75c. and $1.00 each.

French embroidered Handkerchiefs in veryneatdesigns at $1. $1.50, $-?. $2.50. $.*. $4 and $5 each;

these are the. most attractive that we have evershown.

Special—

100 dor. Ladies' initial Handkerchiefsat $1.00 a box of six. reduced from $1.50, $2 and$3 a box.< Also a lot of tumbled Handkerchief* at 13c.

each, used for decoration and sold at .:sc. each.

WIN. S. KINSEY & CO.,300 Fifth Aye., Cor. 36th St.

Haumkuchen. like thte ordinary pound cake

AllSorts of Artistic Devices— Taste

a Factor.

It is ;, far ny from the days when our ancestors

lighted crude wicks In melted fat to these moderntimes, when dinner tables glittering with crystal

are lighted by electric lights, cunningly led through

the table into candelabra or quaint candlesticks.

Electricity is the latest mode for Illuminatingdin-

ner table?. Heretofore wax candles, daintily ar-

rayed were poked In the way of the hungry diner.or"a magnificent chandelier furnished light enough

to disclose every defect in the makeup of an elder-

ly beUles complexion. But .-ill that is changed now."

A fad for dining rooms and libraries is the dome

light. This has superseded the chandelier, and Is

an artistic mode of lighting a room. The dome

bangs over the centre of the table, and is always

colored.There are a number of fashionable women who

do not like much light In their diningrooms. Suchwomen light the room by means of appliques fast-ened .1 the ends of the room upon the wall at

about the height of six feet. Appliques are dis-

tinctly "the thing" in all the handsome drawing

rooms of to-day. Besides appliques, the beautiful

French glrondoUes. once used as mantel ornaments

and lights, and having urns at the top tilled withsperm oil. which ran down Into two or more

branches, hung with pendants of crystals of richly

tut facets, are now placed upon the modern table,

and add greatly to its beauty. The Sabbathcandlestick of the Hebrews and the tall brass and

silver candlesticks of other ancient churches, to-

gether with the stately seven branched candlestickof Rome and the ancient lamps of Egypt, now ap-

pear on the twentieth century dinner table. Nor

Is Greece forgotten, for tall stands bold the quaint,

boat shaped lamps of ancient Greece.

Modern science baa chained the lightening to Itsdinner table, but It baa not captured art. It is the

old things which are newest to-day. Bo great lathe love of these that old fashioned oil lamps of

the plainest make and plain ships" lanterns may

grace a library, smoking den or hall.No matter how old the lamp, candelabrum or

applique, homes are all fitted up with the modern

method or lighting. Householders do not careto depend upon one mode alone. The gas tips

are seldom In evidence, but special arrangements

are made for the bulbs of electric lights, andcharming effects are produced with them.

Although modish people da not use chandeliersat all, there arc numbers of wealthy and culturedfamilies who stick to them. Even these acquiesce

in the modern style sufficiently to have appliques

where they belong and lanterns and domes andcandelabra and candlesticks without number.

Dome fixtures for dining rooms are made InAmerican art glass. in colors suitable to the room.

One style Is to have a large dome, which com-pletely covers the lights, of warm hued art glass,

with a fringe of Bat glass pendants, about live

Inches long, and one Inch—perhaps v bit over—lnwidth. There arc round* d domes, bell shapeddomes, pagoda domes and square domes.

Beaded glass figures extensively In new modes

Of lighting rooms. Lamps and shades have fringes

of small glass beads, that look like dew drop-.

Strung upon threads of rain, and globes for holding

light are made of beaded dear glass. These areused as celling lights, especially In drawing rooms.and give the radiance of diamonds.

Besides all the beautiful Oriental lamps, Americaturns out good Oriental effects for lighting roomsfurr.ished In Eastern style. One of the newest of

these is the dome light for the table of a Moorish

room. The dome la made In true Moorish style

and colors, and stands upon brass pillars, fluted,

and about a foot and a half high, which set on a

base of solid metal.v.•>\u25a0\u0084 re side effects and corner effects are desired,

many artistic articles have, been designed and

resurrected for the house beautiful. Prance, Rome.Russia, England and \u25a0 our Colonial days have

WOMEN TO APPEAL TO ALDERMEN."Co-operation, and never antagonism, has been

our policy during the nineteen years of our exist-

ence." said Mrs. Ralph Trautmann. president of the

Woman's Health Protective Association at \u25a0 special

meeting of the organization called at her home yes-

terday neon. to take further action In the questionof car crowding, first agitated by Ikes body Basra

than a car ago.

Mrs. Trautman then offered for Indorsement an!signature a petition la be presented at once to th?Board of Aldermen embodying the demands of theWoman's Health Protective Association and asking

for a public hearing on the same. Several extractsfrom existing laws on the subject of streetcar traffic

as affecting franchises in New-York were read b>-Mrs. .1. F. Trow, which showed clearly that •\u25a0 th*

ass.>ciatlon"s demands were well within the limit.- ><\u25a0'

such law. An extract from an enactment of QHjcontained the fotlowlng: "Street railways shall ru«i

cars as often as the convenience of the public re-quires, and shall be: subject to such reasonableregulation In respect thereto as the City Councilmenof New-York shall from time to time prescribe."

Mrs. Trautmann reported having seen President

Cantor and WlllLun F. King.of the Merchants' As-sociation, and of their hearty indorsement and as-sistance. Both of these men suggested that every

avenue of moral suasion should be tried before an-tagonistic legislation be resorted to.'It was unanimously voted by those present at yes-

terday's meeting that a copy of the .ilderniariic peti-

tion prepared be sent to all the women's clubs of

New-York and vicinity. Including the newly organ-

ized "Car Passengers' Rights Association." askincaffiliation and co-operation. The subject of a massmeeting in the near future was discussed, but poet-poned for a future session.

JEWELS AS HOLIDAY GIFTS.Special bargains In jewelry, diamonds and

watches a»• just viiow offered Jby E. Mahler. No. 7:1.5Stxth-ave. (at Forty-second-st.). Diamond soli-taires ai*l fine stone hoop rings are shown at great

reductions and are particularly appropriate for at-tractive holiday gifts. This bouse has been estab-lished since 1557. and its character la wen known toall patrons.

the dough by means of carved boards nsed ftnc theGerman anise seed cakes. Aft.r tbe impressions oftilt- pictures have been tnade, (he cakes .ir.- cutapart and put to <lr\ slight!) In a cooling .>v>-:i afterthe tire has been extinguished. The maralpan mustnot be allowed to K>t bard and must remain white.

Baslerbeckerly, ot Swiss make, probabl) r. :.it-.!to the lebkurhen. is made with these Ingredients:One and one-half pounds almonds, cut ta sssaJjpieces; one and one-half pounds citron, also cutsmall; the rind of four lessons, grated; two ouncescinnamon: two ounces elovea; two wbole nutmegs;two ounces potash: one pint klrschwasser; threeand one-half pounds flour, to which is added threeand one-half pounds UquM honey which has bees:boiled with one and one half pounds sugar. H.ikethis dough, cut Into squares, and Ice white. Servewith -.vine.

There nre many :ik.s which are made at Christ-mas time, hut which may be put away to be eatenlater One of these is sand cake, and for this therule is:

One pound of buttefh browned, and when <-oM1., aten until smooth; oWe pound of tlour. one-halfpound of fine sugar, a little vanilla and one-quarterteaspoonful baking powdei mixed Little pithe dough the vise of a walnut should l>e pia,-<M on-, greased baktnc plate and baked yellow (not

brown). These willkeep for months if put a rapapers In > closed jar.

AUTISTIC ELECTRIC DEVICE

off without a present to give to any one. it did\u25a0earn so hard!"

The mother sighed, for she felt the heartaches ofthe season far more than the child, whom sheknew would soon be comforted and happy over hersimple home gifts.

"Yes, Christmas is a lovely season for the richand the very poor." she said, "but it Is a very sadand trying time for genteel poverty."

LIKE YET UNLIKE."Hiv» pa . • *£." she said, "how much

the, setting of a person has to do with your liking

for them? Imean the place, or the people they

a lad. who. like the old man of the sea. inImpossi-ble to set rid of. although he Is rapidly becoming

the trial of the poor woman's life. He certainlyfills a ;ia:i in the household, but hardly the one in-tended liv his mistress."It is the boy that eats bo much." pays the cook,

when Mrs. Smith complains of th« grocer's andbutcher's hills. "His appetite Is something awful,and Ican't give him enough!"

"It is Buttons that did it." says the maid, whenanvthinc goes amis--.

"Boys will be boys," remarks the head of thehouse, unsymriathetically. when she complains ofButtons*s constant peccadilloes. "What Oid you ex-j>eet when you prot him?"

"A cheery, good tempered boy Is Buttons, uponwhom faultfinding and scoldings make no lm-DraastML It is impossible to remain angry withhim. and equally Impossible to do anything withhim. while Ihave not the heart to dismiss him.Like St. Paul. Ihave a thorn in the flesh." saysr>. or Mrs. Smith, "and Irue the day when Ieverengaged a buttons."

HAPPY "LITTLE MOTHERS."Frank Tilford has Increased his always g'-nerous

benefactions by Inviting seven hundred "I>ittleMothers" to a turkey dinner on Christmas DayBrass 1 until Io'clock, at the West Side Lyceum,Kifty-sceond-Bt. and Broadway. From 2 to 4 anentertainment will be given, in which the "littleMothers" will take part. An each child leaves forhome sh<» will receive a dressed doll, mittens andcandy, all of which will b<= paid for by Mr. Til-ford. The little girls who are to enjoy" this goodtime are selected from the. pnoreat quarters of thecity. Mr. Tilford will give his usual < "hristmasdinner to the newsboys.

FINE COLORED PHOTOGRAPHS.A special collection of "Aiic facsimiles." plati-

nums and carbons of fine finish, the first in naturalcolors, specially appropriate and attractive as noil*day gifts. Is row offered by the Detroit Photo-graphic Company. No. 229 Fifth-***, ItIs perhapsthe largest collection of such views, architecturalsubjects, etc.. Inexistence. The methods employedby this house In securing color photographs isunique and the Wills are exceptional. Their viewsor New-York are especially to be noticed.

DESIGNS or TITE SEABOX.

all contributed their quota of wrought brass, cop-per and silver In the way of tall candlesticks-some over six feet in heighfMo place In corners.A popular candlestick is the brass tray design ofcolonial times. The tray is large enough to holdthe night cap of old Bourbon which our fore-fathers took with their bedroom candles. Anotherexceedingly popular candlestick has a square outer-shape. The stick Is very thick, and the holder isoften square and always quaint. These come Inall heights for many purposes, and are used inconjunction with hanging lamps and lanterns anddome lights.

An odd shaped hanging light Is built upon alarge, square brass tray, with sides about threeInches deep. At each corner stands one of thecandlesticks just described upon a short, curvedbranch. Between the corners, in which burn also

A leather fob in lieu of a. tassel is a novelty inumbrella handles. With boxwood the leather i*black, with furae, brown.

W,.rd comes from Paris that violet is a color to

be avoided during the coming season,

t.. be taken by pinkish mauves. also pastel panne.There is. too. a new "champasne brown" that is

likely to become popular. The new videfte blues

will hold theL- o.vn during the coming spring andsummer, and yellow Is expect.-. 1 to be much used

as \u25a0 trimming. A combination of blue and yellowwill probably t:\ke the place of the blue and greenso much in vogue last summer.

Artificial flow-rs are no longer worn singly or h»single sprays in the hair, but in short garlands orrosettes, ans on each side of the head just above

the ears. The flowers used, of course, an the small.dainty varieties. Tiny wild ro«es of ribbon arenovel and effective.

The newest designs in French printed handker-chiefs are bt-lnar much used for corset covers andcollar and cuff sets. Corset SBMSBSSJ mad© of theribbon tied embroidered squares in plain whitehave long been a dainty '-onoelt. This use of tjie

colored prints is quite new. In children's UOijeities for the csaSßHsi ssssMH IsWTC are attractive

IM in fairy nursery series.

eneil under the chin with straps ad the fur or yet*vet about an inch and a half Wide. When used Inwalking the hood la hooked up over the crown anathe straps brought around in front, where theyare crossed to form a sort of trimming.

The round turban has jumped into suMen favorin London, and the reason for this is traced to therecent visit Of the Shah uf Persia. Among his as-sortment there was an astrakhan turban withbrush aigrette. An imitation of this with eitheraigrette or pompons Immediately became fashion-able. A walking or motor turban is of black furor velvet, pointed In Croat, with whit-aJsnUe fast-ened to the outside of the brim at the left. A hoodcovers the hair and buck of tin.- m-ck, and Id fas:-

Mercerized nainsook, a soft, silk finished cottongoods Is one of the season's ssßtetsssi for chil-dren's frocks.

A Japanese wrapper, made long, of soft figuredsilk waddeil and tufted, is a, novelty for the little

people fills season. Kimono styles for house wrapsand gowns Rive the small wearer a quaint appear-ance and are prime favorites. /

Bonnets for little girls are masses of shirring,tucks and pleats this season and are deeply frilledabout the face and ar.mnd the bottom. A ribbonbow or rosette or small tuft of feathers finishestht.se dainty, belongings of the little folks.

The barbaric custom of smothering a helplessInfant In heavy knit woollen face covering has

given way io the use nf s>ik or chiffon selectedespecially for thla purpose. These are plain or

finely splinted. > dged with \u25a0 delicate hue heading-through which baby ribbon is drawn and linishedin rosettes on each side. These an h Xi n placeover the cap with jewelled pins.

M.irzipan. virtuallya bonbon, is nothing but grat-

ed almonds and susur, und to make it so that it

Marzipan of almonds and sugar.

rolled In paper and tied with ribbon, which form

the Christinas token. To make these In sufficientabundance mothers and daughters must busy

themselves two weeks ahead of the holidays.

Outside the home the manufacture of cakes has

been carried to a degree of hi**art with variousfirms, specialising on certain lines, and it Is fromthem that Importations are made here for theChristinas season.

Of all th.- cakes made in Germany, the most time

honored li lebkuchen. or spice cake, known and

used always as the cake of Christmas. it is madeall over Germany, but the most famous lebkuchenIs from Nuremberg, where, it originated several

centuries ago as a rustic product, with honey used

as sweetening. But nowadays, since pure honey la

hard to get, the cake in often sweetened with syrup.Real honey cake is probably the oldest cake inthe world, for it Is described in the works ofRoman writers, and for sentiment's sake it shouldbe preserved In its purity and perfection and eatenonce a year. One such variety of lebkuehen that

still survives Is called honigkuchen. ItIs made In

various forms, but Is seen mostly In Hal cakes,

richly ornamented with split almonds and citron.

Fine lifted flour and much sweetening are theprincipal Ingredients. Pflastersteln is another va-riety of lebkucben, and this cake, of which thename, translated, means paving stones, has theupper crust cut to resemble them.

Stollon, In some parts called kloben. and bakedespecially for holidays, not alone Christmas, Is

similar to American fruitcake, made into a largecake, rolled out and then folded over. It is madeof flour and eggs and enriched with raisins, cur-rants, citron and spices, especially cardamom. Of

similar consistency are tlvj pfefferniisse seen just

now in some of the German hakes-hops. They are

•mall, and just as their name implies spice (pfeffer)

and nuts (nils**) or little cakes.

The anise seed flavored biscuits are \u25a0 form of

Christmas cakes much In favor In South Germany,

and their flat squares or cut shapes are generallyImpressed with some design in relief. It Is said

that ho previous heroes were ever shaped in dough,

i..-iked and eaten so frequently as the old Emperor

William and his warriors and statesmen.

Another fantastic variety of cakes is springerbe,

also spiced, but white and very hard. These aresmall. In shapes of fruit* and flowers- or else withpictures Impressed by mould.-. They show all sortsof genre and comic scenes, and people who make

them have hundreds of little forms.Choicest of all the cakes and generally consid-

ered th« finest ever made anywhere are two arhlchare used not only for Christmas, but for any

especially festive occasion. Marzipan and baum-kuchen are their names, and the origin of each lavery old, as they figure in medieval chronicles ofgrand banquets. Among \u25a0 people to whom- the

tree of Christmas means so much It is not Strange

that one of the most famous of German cakes

should take the tree form. Batimkuchen, abouttwo and a half feet In height,- has the appearance

of a tree trunk with rugged bark, and as size Is Itsespecial attraction it Is used only at banquets oron state occasions. To produce its unusual shape

the method of making is peculiar to Itself. It is

baked on a steel cylinder which is heated from

the inside. A thin dough Is poured slowlyand con-tinually over this while it revolves, and another

heat cornea from underneath. The result la asolid, firm mixture like pound cake, rich by ex-cellence of the Hour arid fine flavorings, and amore refined, delicate product than lebkuehen.

But baumkuchen is very hard to make, and onaccount of the special machinery needed and otherdifficulties scarcely any one in New-York at-

tempts it. ' .

IFor Christmas, iILDNDSORG

-? NEWEST CREATIONS. r

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