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Reality with regard to the competitiveness of the wool fibre
30/5/2013
NWGA Congress South Africa
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 2
Structure
1. Introduction Südwolle Group
2. Exciting and turbulent times equal reality
a) Global Issues
b) Wool Industry Issues
3. Is there a way for a sustainable future?
a) Better information of the public about the wool‘s properties
b) Positive LCA
c) Cooperation is the key
- IWTO
- National Wool Growers‘ Associations
4. Resume
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 3
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
"As a family business Südwolle
Group is committed to producing
the very best solutions to
customers in a sustainable and
partnership focused manner.”
Klaus Steger
Managing Director
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 4
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
• A century of wool and textile innovation and leadership
• Tradition underpinning a modern and dynamic business
• Total of 2,200 employees in 2012
History
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 5
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
Brand Structure
Weaving
Flat Knitting
Circular Knitting
(without socks)
Socks
Nature
Texx
Mount
Hesse
Viscose
Open End
Farm
Brand Structure
Corporate
Automotive
Upholstery
Viscose
Airjet
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 6
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
• One of the largest manufacturer of worsted wool yarn worldwide
• Offers comprehensive stock range on all standard yarns, wool
and blended covering an extraordinary broad count range from Nm 9 to Nm 120
- Seasonal colour palette
- High quality, single sourced, natural yarn
- Global stock service – 24 hour dispatch
• Location specific auditing and quality control
- Quality
- Efficiency
- Cost
- Environmental accountability
• Capacity and availability of all Südwolle Group brands globally - guaranteed
Features
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 7
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
Globally active
• Germany Headquarters Metropolregion Nürnberg
2 warehouses
• Italy Südwolle Group Italy – Distribution center ex Italy
Association with a speciality yarn mill - Biella (Piemont)
• Poland 2 spinning mills (since 1992) – Lodz
• Rumania SWS joined Südwolle Group in 2010 - Simleu Silvaniei
• Great Britain Südwolle Group Great Britain – Distribution center for
England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales
• China Zhangjiagang Yangtse Spinning
Spinning mills (managed under internationally binding
Criteria and quality standards)
DyeCo
Viscose Open End and Air Jet yarns for SOEY brand
• Canada Südwolle Group North America – Distribution center for Canada / USA
• Australia Sheep Farm, Mount Hesse
Europe Rest of the world
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 8
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
Südwolle Group can offer yarns under the following certifications:
• bluesign®
Resource
Productivity
Air
Emmission
Occupation
Health & Safety
Water
Emission
Consumer
Safety
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 9
Company Presentation –
Südwolle Group
Further quality certifications which can be offered: • ISO 9001:2000
• OekoTex 100 (class I + II)
• ISO 14001
• GOTS • IVN Best
• EU eco-flower
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 10
Structure
1. Introduction Südwolle Group
2. Exciting and turbulent times equal reality
a) Global Issues
b) Wool Industry Issues
3. Is there a way for a sustainable future?
a) Better information of the public about the wool‘s properties
b) Positive LCA
c) Cooperation is the key
- IWTO
- National Wool Growers‘ Associations
4. Resume
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 11
EMI January 2003 – May 2013
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 12
Cotton
May 2003 – May 2013
EUR/kg USD-Cent/lb
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 13
Structure
1. Introduction Südwolle Group
2. Exciting and turbulent times equal reality
a) Global Issues
b) Wool Industry Issues
3. Is there a way for a sustainable future?
a) Better information of the public about the wool‘s properties
b) Positive LCA
c) Cooperation is the key
- IWTO
- National Wool Growers‘ Associations
4. Resume
Merino Wool
A natural fibre
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 15
Merino – a natural fibre
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 16
Merino – a natural fibre
Natural
Merino has an entirely natural fibre grown year-round by approx. 95
million Merino sheep worldwide, consuming a simple blend of water,
air, sunshine and grass.
Biodegradable
Unlike most man-made fibres, when Merino fibre is disposed of it,
naturally decomposes back into the earth in a matter of years. Most
synthetics on the other hand, are extremely slow to degrade.
Renewable
Every year Merino sheep produce a new fleece, making Merino a
completely renewable fibre source.
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 17
Merino – a natural fibre
The structure of a wool fibre
The Performance Fibre
Merino is one of the world‘s most technically advanced
fibres with unique moisture and temperature regulation
properties.
How the unique structure of wool affects its performance
The chemical bonding within a Merino fibre has the effect
of allowing the fibres to pull moisture vapour into them.
Without this effective dispersal system, the vapour simply
condenses to form sweat droplets on the skin‘s surface.
The diagram represents this unique fibre structure of
Merino‘s side chains.
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 18
Merino – a natural fibre
Moisture Management
Merino fibre can absorb up to 35% of its dry weight
in moisture vapour. Therefore, in hot climates or
during strenuous exercise, a Merino garment close
to the skin actively transfers moisture vapour away
from the body.
This causes the micro-climate above the skin to
become less saturated with vapour, thereby making
the wearer less clammy and it‘s less likely for the
vaopur to form sweat droplets on the skin‘s surface.
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 19
Merino - a natural fibre
Natural Comfort
Breathability
Temperature Control Anti-Static
Shape Retention
Odour Resistance Naturally Safer Fabric
Easy Care
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 20
Structure
1. Introduction Südwolle Group
2. Exciting and turbulent times equal reality
a) Global Issues
b) Wool Industry Issues
3. Is there a way for a sustainable future?
a) Better information of the public about the wool‘s properties
b) Positive LCA
c) Cooperation is the key
- IWTO
- National Wool Growers‘ Associations
4. Resume
IWTO
Wool Life Cycle Analysis
Progress Update
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 22
IWTO Wool Life Cycle Analysis
The Situation – Wool is badly assessed in
sustainability benchmarking tools
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 23
IWTO Wool Life Cycle Analysis
Strategy:
Bridge data gaps & generate consensus - Develop alternate allocation methods for on-farm component
- Evidence wool garment wear life, care process, and recycling
- Establish Standards and Guidelines process
- Produce revised interiors and apparel LCA‘s
- Chemical practices surveyed
Coordinate, Communicate and Engage - Appoint an IWTO Environmental Credentials Coordinator
- Build up relationships with external stakeholders such as Made-By, Sustainable Apparel Coalition and make them
our ambassadors
- Communicate the industry‘s efforts, positive stories and updated LCA data
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 24
The Future – What the Wool
Industry will have achieved? 1. Deepened our understanding of wool‘s environmental footprint
2. Achieved recognition that:
- As an industry, wool has invested substantially in documenting its
environmental credentials, from cradle to grave, and continues to do so.
- Wool is a comparatively green fibre, with technical advantages in wear life,
and recycling.
3. Informed consumer-level marketing efforts
4. Established capacity to engage and inform key stakeholders globally
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 25
Progress on Wool‘s
Environmental Credentials The development of an updated Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) for wool to enhance wool‘s
environmental credentials is one of IWTO‘s key priorities in 2013. Together with a very
active working group and the Environmental Credentials Coordinator the
Communications and R&D strategy (presented in New York last year) is now being
successfully implemented.
On 16-17 April 2013, the LCA Technical Advisory Group (TAG) held its first meeting in
Sydney kindly organised and hosted by AWI. LCA experts from Australia, China, New
Zealand and the UK developed a strategic plan for collaborative research on data gaps to
be completed with the goal to publish updated LCA data.
Working cloesely together with these organisations is important to ensure that our
stakeholders have a better understanding of wool and that the updated wool LCA data
meets our stakeholder‘s needs and can be implemented smoothly into their systems.
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 26
Progress on Wool‘s
Environmental Credentials Besides R&D, the second pillar of the strategy includes communications with the wool
industry‘s stakeholders. The Environmental Credentials Coordinator Rudolp de Jong is
actively engaging with different external stakeholders such as the Sustainable Apparel
Coalition and Made-By.
These organisations have established environmental credential assessment tools based
on LCA data relevant for the textile supply chain such as the Higg Index. LCA data used
for wool is often outdated and old which is negative for wool. Once updated LCA data for
wool is available through the work of the LCA TAG, the new data needs to be included in
the assessment tools to improve wool‘s environmental credentials.
On 13 June 2013 at the IWTO Congress in Biella, the LCA Working Group will present ist
work and progress to date. The session is supported by the EU Commission responsible
for Consumer and Health and delegates can expect a very interesting session.
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 27
Structure
1. Introduction Südwolle Group
2. Exciting and turbulent times equal reality
a) Global Issues
b) Wool Industry Issues
3. Is there a way for a sustainable future?
a) Better information of the public about the wool‘s properties
b) Positive LCA
c) Cooperation is the key
- IWTO
- National Wool Growers‘ Associations
4. Resume
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 28
Resume
If tommorow there was a virus killing all sheep globally overnight, it will most
likely be not noted in an article in the Financial Times.
Not even the textile industry needs wool as a fibre.
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 29
Production Share of Fibre
Types Worldwide (2006)
NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 30
Thank You!