Ocean View Spring 2012

OCEAN VIEWInteriors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more... Spring 2012 FREE

It’S tIme to enjoy An oCeAn VIew

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Backwaters, Kerala

Back waters, KeralaIndian Tourism Office, 7 Cork Street, London W1S 3LH, Tel: 0207 437677 [email protected] www.inredibleindia.org

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WelcomeAs signs of spring emerge by our waterside offices at Ocean View, we bring you our second issue, to inspire you with fresh ideas for the new season.

If like us, your thoughts are turning to booking a summer escape, then our inside track on cruise holidays may well spur you to take a trip on the water (pg 11), whilst our round up of the most desirable luggage has been designed to bring you the very best options to ensure that you arrive perfectly and stylishly organised, wherever you may be travelling to (pg 62).

Mini breaks or even just a day by the seaside are all we sometimes need to recharge our batteries and to make the most of brighter weather. On page 45, we’ve selected our favourite coastal walk across an unspoilt stretch of Northumberland, a county steeped in history. We hope it encourages you to get out and explore! And for those preferring to relax, our book extract, following an intrepid sailor’s journey as he circumnavigates the globe, provides the perfect armchair adventure.

After all, spring is not all about escaping. As some of us turn to spring cleaning, daring to bring out lightweight bedding and stow away winter throws, our feature on creating a coastal interior shows you how to revive rooms with seaside touches, without the need for re-decoration (pg 24). For food lovers, we demystify the sometimes daunting prospect of preparing and cooking Lobster (pg 38) whilst our ultimate cocktail recipes bring some indulgence to the lighter evenings and entertaining on land and at sea (pg 32).

So whether you will be at home, at sea, or travelling to the coast this spring, we hope that Ocean View brings you some welcome ideas and entertainment for your life by, or on the water.

Samantha Scott-JeffriesEditor

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Backwaters, Kerala

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CONTENTS

Ocean View Magazine

Editor: Samantha Scott-Jeffriess.scott-jeffries@parkview-publishing.co.ukEditorial Director: Grant [email protected] Design: Harriet [email protected] Director/Advertising Sales:Linda Grace [email protected] Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfi eldl.mansfi [email protected] Director: Simon [email protected]: Clare Fermor/ Amelia Wellings:[email protected]@parkview-publishing.co.ukPublished by Life Media GroupPark View House19 The Avenue, Eastbourne, East Sussex, BN21 3YD01323 411 601Printed byGemini PressUnit A1 Dolphin Way, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex BN43 6NZ01273 464884

All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press.Copyright Life Media Group 2012 ©

Cover Image: © photo Gilles Martin Raget From Eilean: A Classic Yacht by May Fife Kohn and François Chevalier, published by Flammarion, 2011

SPRING 2012

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Welcome: An invitation to explore what’s inside our second issue of Ocean View.

Portfolio: Dip into the beautiful book which charts the meticulous restoration of a very special, classic yacht.

Smooth Sailing: Are you thinking of booking a luxury cruise holiday? Don’t miss our experts’ essential guide to getting the most from your escape on the water.

Fashion: Discover the story of Sebago, the brand behind the iconic deck shoes worn by Kate Middleton, Justin Bieber and lovers of the sea.

Seaside Living: Bring a coastal feel to your home using nautical references and beach ephemera to create an interior with shore appeal.

Irresistible Tipples: Make, shake and stir your way to perfect cocktails by an award winning bar tender.

Cracking the Lobster: Is fear making you miss out on preparing our most luxurious seafood? Find out what cooks should know in order to serve delicious lobster dishes.

Coasting: Inspired by the BBC series ‘Coast’ we bring you an unspoilt trail across Northumberland to explore.

One Man’s Adventure: Read about the epic journey of Les Powles who decided to circumnavigate the globe twice, after just eight hours of sailing experience.

Right Plaice, Right Time: Nothing can quite match the taste of fresh local fish. Read the personal food memories of a self confessed fish-aholic.

62.Buyer’s Guide: Holidays start with packing. Our round-up of must have luggage makes stylish work of the task.

OCEAN VIEWInteriors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more... Spring 2012 FREE

It’S tIme to enjoy An oCeAn VIew

PP 01 Front Page.indd 1 08/02/2012 15:22

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CONTENTS

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PortfolioOcean View previews the book that charts the fascinating adventure and 40,000 man hours of repair that it took to restore the classic yacht Eilean.

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Eilean, a classic 72 foot Bermudan Ketch was designed by William Fife in 1936. Yet the iconic yacht, which once featured in the Duran Duran music video ‘Rio’ in 1982, was found practically abandoned in Antigua in 2006, where she had become a mast-less wreck. Panerai, the luxury Italian watchmaker who poetically produced their first timepiece in the same year in which Eilean was built by Fife, rescued the boat when its’ CEO Angelo Bonati, a keen sailor, fell in love with her. Panerai, who are renowned for their long history associated with the sea, yachting and traditional sailing culture, undertook the meticulous restoration of Eilean, which took two and a half years, passion and determination, to complete.A glorious celebration of Eilean’s journey; from her complete re-crafting to competing in the 2011 Panerai Classic Yacht Challenge events, is skillfully charted for boating enthusiasts, aficionados and specialists within the pages of this book. Illustrated with archival documents, punctuated by specially commissioned photographs and historical plans, it navigates the reader through the highlights of her adventure and incredible journey.

Eilean: A Classic Yacht, by May Fife Kohn and François Chevalier, Published by Flammarion, 2011, £80.00

TOP RIGHT & BELOW RIGHT: Wooden blocks, restored hatches identical to the originals, varnished cap rail, classic teak deck, and bronze winches: the authenticity of the restoration of this great ketch was of paramount importance.

OPPOSITE: A wooden hull may look spotless when finished but during assembly, thousands of holes are visible, waiting to receive the rivets fixing the planking onto the steel frames and for the temporary nailing of the teak deck boards onto the marine plywood.

PORTFOLIO

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Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | JosephRibkoff.com | Official designer for

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CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT

Smooth SailingIn 2010, one in every ten package holidays booked was a cruise. So is a holiday on the water the perfect choice for you? We consulted an independent expert on everything you need to know, and ensure that your holiday a� oat is a breeze.

Booking a cruise holiday can be both an exciting and a mind boggling task. Whilst the options have never been so varied, with so many tastes and age groups catered for, cruise holidays, it can be argued, have never appealed to so many. So how do you ensure that you choose the perfect experience for you? What can you expect from the new cruise ships? What is life really like on board? How do you navigate the crusing culture of tipping and choosing the right cabin? The questions for those seeking the perfect holiday on the water are as endless as the potential destinations. We therefore decided to consult an independent expert for their tips on how to make all of your cruise adventures successful experiences.

Before you book: Frequently Asked Questions

Activities & Facilities on BoardThis can vary depending on the Cruise Line but most ships have a wide selection of day time activities which range from fully equipped fi tness gyms, exercise and dance classes some even have rock climbing walls. For the less active passengers there are spas, cookery classes as well as the decks where you can relax and read a good book. The activities are endless and you can do as much or as little as you choose.

Cabins - Inside vs OutsideAn inside cabin means you have a cabin on the inside of the ship which has no window or port hole, whilst an outside cabin is on the

outside of the ship so you will have a view outside or have a balcony. Whatever cabin type you choose, all passengers have full use of all the facilities on board the ship. Outside cabins and balcony cabins cost more than inside cabins and are usually larger in size.

What is a guaranteed cabin?When you book the cruise the price you pay will depend on the category of cabin so this will be guaranteed. Some Cruise Lines will assign the actual cabin number at the time of booking while others will assign when you check in. Entertainment and most onboard facilities and activities. So break the price down to a ‘per day’ cost and you can begin to appreciate the great value available.

Dress CodeAs a general guideline cruise ships class formal for men as a dinner jacket or dark suit, with tie and for the ladies an evening gown or cocktail dress. But don’t buy a dinner jacket just for the trip, even on the most formal of ships; a dark suit and tie are fi nefor the dressiest occasions plus many ships offer dinner jacket rental services.

Informal for men is long trousers, a collared shirt and tie and for the ladies a dress or smart attire. Casual / relaxed for a man is long trousers with tie optional and for ladies a more casual dress or outfi t.

PassportsIf you are a British Citizen you will need to have 6 months validity on your passport after your date of return. Children will need their

Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | JosephRibkoff.com | Official designer for

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own passports. British Visitor Passports are no longer valid. British subject passport holders’ requirements may differ so always check prior to travel and ensure you obtain all the necessary documentation as you could be refused travel without it.

Formal eveningsFormal evenings are all part of the fun of cruising, especially the Captain’s Cocktail Party. It is acceptable for gentlemen to wear a dark suit instead of a dinner jacket and ladies to wear cocktail dresses.

Other suggestions to ensure a stress-free cruiseThe most important things to decide is the right Cruise Line, ship size and itinerary- also consider the ship’s dining options and seating arrangements. If travelling as a family check what children’s facilities and activities are on board. Alternatively if you do not want to be surrounded by children check which operator offers adult only cruises. Before you travel, fi nd out how many formal and casual nights there are onboard the cruise so you can plan your packing. Check your passport validity and make sure that any visas have been applied for in plenty of time.

When arriving on the ship get your bearings, familiarise yourself with the ship’s layout and your cabin location. Decide which excursions and spa treatments you would like and book them at the beginning of the cruise so you are not disappointed if they get fully booked. Then just relax and enjoy the cruise doing as much or as little as you like...

Life on Board

Finding your feet (especially on large ships)When you fi rst arrive in your cabin after embarkation your luggage will probably not be delivered for a few hours, so you should take this opportunity to fi nd your bearings on board the ship. You will have been given a detailed map of the ship when you checked in so using this you should start to fi nd the location of different decks, restaurants, bars, entertainment, pools etc. It is also wise to fi nd the

quickest route to your cabin as the ships are vast in size and you will probably walk endless miles in the fi rst few days fi nding your way around.

Drink pricesThe costs of drinks on board are normally lower than on land since ships have access to duty free alcohol. Dining rooms normally have extensive and reasonably priced wine lists but some Cruise Lines will also add a cover charge of approximately 15% to the bill.

Some ships also sell duty free wine and alcohol which you may be able to drink in your cabin; however this may not be taken into the dining or public areas. This protects the bar sales which is a substantial source of onboard revenue. When purchasing dutyfree alcohol either on the ship or in port this will be stored for you until the last day of the cruise then returned to you prior to disembarkation.

What about tipping?Tipping is a matter of individual preference and most Cruise Lines now publish guidelines in their brochures. A general rule is to plan for a total of approximately £4 - £7 per person per day. Some Cruise Lines will automatically add gratuities to your onboard account which can be adjusted if required when the account is paid at the end of the cruise. Gratuities are sometimes included in the cruise fare, normally those at the luxury end of the market, where no tipping is permitted – at least that is the theory!

Extra charges on boardAlthough all the entertainment and food is included in the price you do have to be aware of some additional expenses that you need to budget for as these could soon add up.

Shore excursions are bookable prior to your cruise and also when you have boarded and the price will vary depending on the excursion. Drinks on board during the cruise, although they are reasonably priced will mount up and also remember 10–15% can be added for wine ordered in the restaurant.

Additional costs could include laundry, spa treatments, alternative dining, internet access, medical costs and duty free shopping both on board and in destinations.

Communication with the outside worldMost ships have a daily newsletter with news, headlines, selected stock quotes and sports results and many cabins are equipped with televisions and have satellite or cellular telephones. New ships all have the technology to enable passengers to use their own personal mobile telephone with the cost being charged to the mobile account. Beware this can be expensive. The best and cheapest way to keep in touch with family and


“Formal evenings on ships can be grand but you don’t need to rush out to buy black tie, a dark suit is perfectly acceptable on most ships.”

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friends is to use e-mail as most ships have an internet cafe. Alternatively send e-mails while in port as this would be a lot less expensive than onboard.

Paying your onboard accountIt is now normal for all Cruise Lines to operate cash-free cruising so all purchases and expenditure will be added to your personal account. When you board the ship an imprint of a credit card will be taken to ensure you can cover any onboard expenses. Throughout the cruise you sign for everything. Some cruise ships have the facility to check the balance of your account on the television in the cabin.

All cruise ships will deliver a detailed statement to your cabin the day prior to disembarkation. Some Cruise Lines may discontinue their ‘cashless’ system on the last day of the cruise, some may also add a currency conversion service charge to your credit card if not in the same currency as the Cruise Line.

“If you don’t have a credit card the Cruise Line may request that you lodge a cash deposit prior to embarkation. This may need to be topped up if used up during the cruise, and any unspent amount will be refunded at the end of your cruise.”

DisembarkationDisembarkation can be the most tiring and seemingly rushed part of the cruise.

An informal talk on customs, immigration and disembarkation procedures will have been given the previous day by the cruise director and customs forms given out to complete. Include any duty free items purchased either aboard or ashore (keep all receipts in case a customs offi cer asks for them) and complete coloured tags, which will also have been distributed.

The night before your disembarkation you must place all luggage, apart from hand luggage, outside the cabin door before 2.00am. This enables it to be collected and off loaded on arrival the next day which can take between two to three hours. No passenger is allowed to leave the ship until all the baggage has been offl oaded.

Breakfast is normally served early as the ship will dock between 7.00am and 8.00am and, as with many hotels, ships have a fast check out procedure as they only have approximately four hours to prepare the ship for the next passengers boarding.

Disembarking can either be organised by colour coded tags so about 100 passengers can be disembarked at a time or the cruise ship may ask you to vacate your cabin at a certain time and wait in one of the public areas.

Your fi rst stop will be at immigration and then onto the baggage holding area where you will identify your luggage and take it to the customs area. There you may need to produce your duty free purchases and receipts if requested.

After clearing customs you are then able to make your way to your selected transport home.


� e Inside TrackOur experts reveal 5 key tips for getting the most value from your cruise

1. ‘Family cabins’ come with four berths, but only one bathroom and only two storage cabinets. You can cruise very cost effectively by maximising the occupancy of your cabin, but remember to pack light!

2. Bathrobes that are provided are never changed during your cruise. Ask your cabin steward to change your robeif required.

3. Reducing or changing the ‘automatic gratuities’ charged toyour cabin account on some large cruise ships will require you to provide the reason to why you want to reduce them at reception. Don’t be intimidated – gratuities are at your discretion and if you don’t believe that they are justifi ed or earned then explain this.

4. ‘Guaranteed Exchange rate’. This is a rate some Cruise Lines use if the currency of payment is different from the ships currency. The guaranteed rate can be higher than the rate quoted by the banks, making purchases and settling your cabin account higher than expected. Most UK ‘no fl y’ cruises are on ships whose standard onboard currency is Sterling. For those that are not, or for spending money on excursions, it is often better to purchase your currency in advance.

5. On arrival in your cabin a bottle of water is on display for your ‘convenience’ which will then cost you £3.50. Also a waiter handing out drinks when you arrive will charge you £4.50 for a drink full of ice worth £1.00. Take a couple of bottles of water with you for use whilst embarking (which can take some time) and for immediate use in your cabin that fi rst drink is often the most expensive!

If this has whetted your appetite for researching your own cruise holiday, read more from the book from which the above advice was adapted:‘The UK Guide to No Fly Cruising’ by Marc Jones and Ernie Skalsky, which is published by Cruise Experts Limited.Ocean View readers can order a free copy of the book (costing £9.99 on Amazon) by going to www.uk2ukcruiseguide.co.uk

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16 OCEAN VIEW

SEBAGO: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND

Man theDecksWorn by lovers of fashion and the sea - from Justin Bieber to Kate Middleton - the quality, craftsmanship and classic style of Sebago shoes have endured for more than 40 years. Here we explore the story behind the brand that created Docksides, the iconic footwear that has become synonymous with the term ‘deck shoe’.

‘We never expected that Sebago Docksides would become the icon of marine footwear that they are today’, say the brand behind the enduring design. The creation of their classic deck shoe, was simply an extension and culmination of everything that the company and its craftsmen had until that point, been working towards, and still hold true today.

ABOVE: A Sebago handsewer perfecting their craft

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This selection of Docksides (defi ned by one colour on the upper) and Spinnaker (with two colours) for Spring/Summer 2012, show the variety of colourways in which the ranges are now produced. Docksides for the UK market are available in 20 colourways, Spinnakers, 10, with as many as 300 options in the combined global market.

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Sebago launched in 1946 in Maine, New England. Dan Wellehan Sr, the owner of fi ve independent shoe stores across the state, fi rst came up with the idea of manufacturing shoes to keep his shops adequately stocked when consumers exhibited signs of increased spending and new found optimism at the end of the second world war. He joined forces with Joseph Cordeau and William Beaudoin, two other ‘footwear veterans’, who were passionate about creating a brand to refl ect the spirit, sense of place and heritage of New

England and its people. Their shoes, they decided, would be “strong, elegant and fi t for life in, on and around the water.” They would also be handmade by craftsmen dedicated to their art.

Beaudoin patented a mocassain Welt construction, which enabled skilled cobblers to hand sew their original shoe designs without any guide holes, making them comfortable, hardwearing and giving credence to the brands’ original name Sebago Moc Company. ‘Moc’ stood for mocassain, whilst ‘Sebago’ was taken from the Sebago lake, an impressive stretch of local water, which had been given its name by the resident Abenaki Indians.

The shoes, from the outset, were timeless, handcrafted designs, with every pair given an equal care in their construction as the last. The fi rst design was a classic Penny Loafer, styled on Indian moccassins. The skilled cobblers (called Cordwainers) were armed with a razor sharp awl and dual needles threaded with waxy nylon thread, with which they would feed holes through the leather, crossing back and forth. Every stich was then handknotted. The technique is still used by Sebago craftsmen who claim that its effectiveness still “defi es modern technology even to this day.”

ABOVE AND OPPOSITE:These classic Docksides are a work in progress in Sebago’s Dominican Republic factory.

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Whilst priding themselves on their traditional values of heritage and craftsmanship, Sebago Moc was an ambitious company. The brand was soon stocked in other retail outlets and by 1950 had achieved sales of $1,000,000. To reach their goal of manufacturing 2,000 pairs of shoes a day, they built a factory within commuting distance of neighbouring towns in 1952 to enable the raw materials they required for their shoes to be delivered from all over the US, to attract the 300 employees they would employ and to enable the effi cient delivery of their product. By 1954 the company was able to celebrate selling their 1,000,000th pair of shoes.

The 1960s saw the launch of Jolly Rogers, the company’s hand sewn Penny loafer for women. The founder’s son Dan Wellehan Jr joined the company and the brand began to be distributed throughout Europe. Legend has it that a man called Sr Francisco Gaudier, having bought a pair of Sebago Classic Loafers in Switerland jumped straight on a plane to Maine to sign a contract to distribute the shoes throughout the continent. The shoes were unveiled at Semaine du Cuir, an international exhibition in Paris.In 1970 Sebago launched their own-brand boat shoe Docksides. Made from leather, Docksides were a protective alternative to the popular canvas boat shoe, designed to grip the deck of a boat with non-marking soles, yet retain their style on the street. The shoes, were of course hand sewn in their trademark moccassin style which wrapped the foot in a single piece of form-fi tting leather for comfort and durability. They were fi tted with functional rawhide laces and non-corrosive brass eyelets, whilst their non-marking soles were slip-resistant, making

“Skilled cobblers were armed with razor sharp awl and dual needles with which they would feed holes through the leather”

LEFT: A craftsmen works on completing a pair of tan leather Docksides by hand.

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ALIZONNE_OCEANVIEW_FEB12 24/01/2012 13:53 Page 1

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Tel: 01481 822333 Email: [email protected]/oceanview

Relax and unwind. Fine food and wine.

Regular short flights from Southampton Airport.

the tranquil island of

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them a practical choice for sailors. On fi nding the name Docksides by Sebago Moc too wordy, however, the company decided to become known simply as Sebago.

As sales of Docksides boomed throughout the ‘80s with the demand for an American preppy look that had originated in university and college campuses, Sebago pushed production to two million pairs of shoes a year. The company responded by developing its fashion ranges and celebrated their nautical heritage by becoming the fi rst US corporate sponsor of a twelve metre America’s Cup Race in 1983. The following year Sebago were the corporate sponsor of the US Olympic sailing team, supplying the team with yachting footwear, whilst in the 1990s they became the offi cial sponsor of the America’s Cup contender ‘Defender’ and supporters of the Young America team in their bid to win the Louis Vuitton cup in 1995, again showing their commitment to their seafaring passion and tradition.

Sebago were bought by Wolverine World Wide Inc in 2003, yet whilst their new premises in Maine accommodated some 800 employees, these included sons and daughters of the founding craftsmen, with skills handed down through the generations. Growth since has included the introduction of clothing to the company, with collections based on aspects of New England nautical life; from fashion to high performance.

In 2010, the company celebrated six decades of craftsmanship and authentic, timeless design. They’ve stayed true to their New England roots, their commitment to life on and around the water, yet, as from the outset, Sebago have continued to move with fashion and ambition. Still championing handmade, quality footwear, they still make the Classic Penny Loafer and handsewn Docksides in the very same way as they were originally and carefully crafted.

“The shoes wrapped the foot in a single piece of form fi tting leather, for comfort and durability”

ABOVE & LEFT: Docksides from the Spring/Summer 2012 collection are still made with a geniune moccasin construction that wraps the foot in a single piece of leather.

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SEASIDE LIVING - COASTAL EPHEMERA

Shore AppealWhen creating a home with a coastal feel, the devil is in the detail. Nautical artwork

and antiques, collections with sea-faring themes and surf-polished pebbles, shells and coral can create a maritime feel, without the need for redecoration.

The increasing popularity of coastal living has resulted in a growing interest in elegant, low-key interiors that reflect the relaxed simplicity of shoreside dwellings. Indeed, coastal chic is now taking a richly deserved turn in the spotlight and the typically tasteful design of coastal interiors is as alluring as it is universal.Coastal style has evolved from the myriad different ways in which seaside-dwellers have integrated the surrounding environment into their interiors. If you want to achieve this in your own home, big windows and sliding doors are highly desirable – as is a minimalist design scheme, which makes it possible for you to appreciate fully the views of sea, sand and sky. Paring back

the furniture in your home also provides a calming reminder of the wide-open spaces beyond your window, while stripped wooden floors, streamlined storage and a unified colour scheme create a soothing, well-ordered impression.A pale, watery palette and minimalist furnishings in natural materials such as wood and stone will reinforce the simple appeal of coastal architecture, regardless of whether you live in a seaside cottage or colonial-style villa.

Natural materials that reflect the seashore come into their own in coastal interiors. Driftwood furniture and tongue-and-groove wall cladding create a breezy, barefoot feel, while scrubbed flagstones recall the smooth

OPPOSITE An open-fronted cabinet with 24 compartments makes an ideal showcase for a colourful mixture of shells in shades ranging from delicate silver to orange, green, purple and white. The dark wood helps to highlight the luminosity of the display pieces.

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sheen of surf-polished pebbles. To enhance the look, opt for a coastal palette: aqua blues, sea greens and oyster greys are ideal for achieving a watery look, while neutrals in shades of sand and shell recall the hues of the seashore. The occasional bolt of brilliant colour also works well in seaside interiors – scarlet, yellow and turquoise are all effective.

Establishing a sense of relaxed informality is one of the joys of coastal living. Although the seaside look is cool and classy, there is nothing precious about its decorative style. Instead, elegant eclecticism rules – with huge sofas, paint-flaked armoires, scrubbed tables and the odd chandelier set alongside faded kelims, rustic log baskets and nautical paintings propped up against the wall.

Decorative accessories, which take their cue from various coastal influences, are similarly spontaneous. Indeed, anything goes on the display front – from a massive model yacht in front of the fireplace to a display of straw hats randomly arranged on a wall. Fishing tackle, fossils and feathers are also popular, while the natural beauty of shells is unrivalled in terms of decorative embellishment

Coastal style is not only for people who live by the sea. Whatever type of home you have, from a high-rise apartment to a cottage in the country, you can establish a beachy feel.

Display & Embellishment

The oceans are a source of countless beautiful items that can be put to decorative use, but pebbles, shells and coral should

be acquired only with proper regard for the environment. Collections of antique shells and pieces of coral are acceptable, of course, but a hoard of exotic marine treasures is not needed to create an arresting display. Simple finds such as rosy sunset shells, textural scallops and silvery-green limpets can be freely picked up on beaches around the world - and are just as attractive as their more rarefied cousins.

Intrinsic Beauty

Since pebbles and shells are so intrinsically beautiful, you can display them with a minimum of fuss. A line of smooth grey stones is a great way to embellish a plain windowsill, for example, while a cheap goldfish bowl filled with cowrie shellsis similarly alluring. Shoreline treasures are also eye-catching when arranged on a table or tray, particularly if you leave enough space between the objects to create a sense of symmetry. Feathers, starfish and strands of dried seaweed can be used to add texture and form to display schemes, while items such as driftwood and fossils are easily fashioned into shelves, lamp bases and bookends.

Delicate glass shelves – or cabinets with glass doors – are one of the most effective ways of displaying marine finds. Not only does glass complement their fragility, but its light-reflecting qualities also enhance the luminosity of shells and coral, so that they glow in the sun.

Tidal treasures also make excellent embellishments for furniture and furnishings. Drawer handles in the form

of whelks or cockles are a perennial favourite, while lampshades fringed with tiny pheasant shells add a touch of frivolity. For sparkle and shine, include mother-of-pearl boxes or photograph frames in your decorative arrangements or scour antiques markets for 19th-century mirrors with shell-encrusted frames.

Nautical References

Coastal homes also benefit from nautical references. Storm lanterns, barometers, telescopes, binoculars – even a pair of paint-flaked oars – will introduce a seafaring note, while sun-faded flags and old-fashioned maps or shipping charts offer a similarly effective maritime feel.

Model yachts are much-favoured ornaments in coastal homes, helping to brighten up fireplaces, mantelpieces and bookshelves. Boats made out of driftwood also look attractive, while reclaimed signage or a souvenir ship in a bottle adds a kitsch element. If your home needs an injection of colour, a display case filled with medals on brightly striped ribbons will do the trick, while a discarded lifebelt or faded orange buoy are perfect for jazzing up exterior spaces.

Not surprisingly, fish images and motifs are very popular among seaside-dwellers. Whether you want dolphins dancing across your duvet or swordfish on your splashback, there will be a company with the products to satisfy your needs. Brightly coloured floats, reels, flies, lures and other fishing tackle also look good in coastal homes, introducing a gritty, workmanlike feel that makes a

“Simple fi nds such as rosy sunset shells, textural scallops and silvery-greenlimpets can be freely picked up on beaches around the world - and are just as attractive as their more rarefi ed cousins”

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A felt cushion designed by Jan Constantine introduces a nautical edge, while contrasting fabrics look good together on a plain sofa. The sailors’ uniforms

pressed behind glass frames reinforce the maritime theme.

28 OCEAN VIEW

LEFT: To make their visitors feel relaxed and at home, David Flint Wood and India Hicks have installed a three dimensional mixed-media ‘scrap wall’ in the writing area of their guest house.

nice contrast to softer details such as sun-bleached linens and delicate coral sprays.

Nautical artwork – from sepia ship prints to modern seascapes – is a must in coastal homes. Prop pictures on a mantelpiece or shelves and arrange shoreline finds around them. A faded yacht-print surrounded by surf-smoothed stones and textured ceramics in beachy shades is ideal for creating an impression of casual chic, while chunky box frames make an informal display case for starfish, shells and other marine objects.When hanging pictures, remember that frames of different sizes look great grouped together as long as the content and the colouring are roughly the same. If you want to create a montage of seaside images, it’s worth abiding by a few rules. For example, feature no more than three colours. Keep your montage free from the constraints of symmetry to achieve a mood of relaxed spontaneity. Overlap pictures to give an informal feel, and juxtapose close-up shots with some full-sized images. Although creating an attractive montage is not as easy as it looks, trial and error will almost certainly yield successful results.

Raffia baskets, sun hats, children’s buckets and spades and other beach essentials can also be used decoratively in coastal interiors. A wooden tub filled with parasols, shrimping nets and beach balls will enliven a hallway, for example, while a surfboard with brightly coloured detailing or a wooden peg rail for towels cheers up an outdoor space. You could hang bunting across doorways or make a decorative feature of straw hats by hanging them all together on randomly placed hooks.


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OCEAN VIEW 29

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30 OCEAN VIEW

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100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel

A dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle JohnA dash of mischief from Uncle John

2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret

A sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty MaryA sprinkling of good humour from Aunty Mary

100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel

A dash of mischief from Uncle John

2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret

A sprinkling of good humour from Aunty Mary

Key IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey IngredientsKey Ingredients

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OCEAN VIEW 31


ABOVE: Similarly themed nautical paintings make a dramatic impact when displayed against a combination wall of roughly hewn stone and smooth wood panelling. An upright fi shing rod acts as a balance to the horizontal lines of the pictures.

Art MarineDeals in limited edition prints and paintings by marine artists, by appointment at their gallery close to Shaftestbury and online.www.artmarine.co.uk

BonhamsHolds specialist Rivercraft and Maritime Art Auctions.www.bonhams.com

Charles Miller LtdPresents auctions of maritime and scientific models, instruments, objects & fine art.www.charlesmillerltd.com

Gerald Lee Maritime BooksSells a wide range of second hand naval and maritime books, as well as maritime memorabilia and ephemera. An online catalogue is available.www.leemaritimebooks.com

Jacobson Marine AntiquesDeals in ship models, nautical paintings and prints, rope work, ocean lighthouse and life-saving memorabilia, navigational instruments and more.www.marineantiques.com

The Nautical Antique CentreCurrently stocks over 1,000 items to do with ships and the sea, including World War two binoculars, compasses, paintings, ships lights and equipment. www.nauticalantiques.org

Partridge & BrayA marine auction will be held to coincide with the 100 year anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic, at this auction house in Liverpool this year.www.theliverpoolsaleroom.co.uk

How to get Ship Shape

Coastal Style, by Sally Hayden and Alice Whately, with photographs by Paul Massey, Published byRyland Peters & Small, www.rylandpeters.com Reader Offer - Coastal Style will be available to readers of Ocean View for the special price of £17.99 including postage & packaging (rrp19.99) by telephoning Macmillan Direct on 01256 302 699 and quoting the reference GLR 6KW.

Inspired by the interiors over the last four pages, but not sure how to emulate the look? Suppliers of nautical antiques, maritime artefacts and ephemera make for ripe hunting grounds. Whilst auctions, outlets and online dealers can be found worldwide, Ocean View brings you a selection of stockists, specialists and outlets to enable you to start the hunt for your own unique collection in the UK.

100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel

A dash of mischief from Uncle John

2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret

A sprinkling of good humour from Aunty Mary

Key Ingredients

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32 OCEAN VIEW

IRRESISTIBLE TIPPLES

Shaken, Stirred and All Mixed UpCocktails have always been synonymous with glamour and sophistication, yet they needn’t be complex to master. Here, award winning bartender Ben Reed demysti� es the techniques, equipment and recipes you’ll need to make classic cocktail recipes at home or on board, some of which, have a seafaring origin.

The origin of the word ‘cocktail’ is steeped in myth with a number of explanations for its derivation. Among my favourites is the story of a publican who, during American War of Independence, lost one of his fi nest fi ghting cockerels. He was inconsolable until the day an army lieutenant came riding into town with the bird. The publican mixed up a special concoction and served it to the soldier, toasting him with phrase ‘to the cock’s tail’ (for returning the bird with all the feathers in its tail intact).

Although many cocktails we regard as ‘classic’ were invented before the 20th century, they came into their own in the 1900s. With palates and spirits growing more refi ned, cocktails were created that celebrated the base spirit rather than hid it.

Social circumstances determined how people drank. Prohibition taught Americans the joy of light, Cuban style cocktails like the Daquiri and the Great Depression saw

the emergence of the Tiki Movement in California with drinks such as the Mai Tai. Today the true classic cocktail is one that has withstood the test of time.

The preparation methods are often contentious - think of martini with the ubiquitous ‘shaken’ or ‘stirred’ argument. Invariably, and this is the joy with timeless cocktails, when a cocktail can be made in a number of ways, a new title is often bestowed upon it and a new life given!As cocktails evolve, we should always cherish the classic, as it gives us the base to both toast the past and mix for the future.

Equipment & TechniquesEquipmentAny aspiring bartender should acquire a measure (jigger) and a shaker. The modern dual-measure jigger measures both 50ml and 25ml (a double and a single measure). The

barspoon with its long spiralling handle,is useful for stirring drinks and for the gentle pouring required for layered drinks.The ‘wrong,’ fl at end can be used for muddling or crushing herbs etc. A muddler, a wooden pestle for mixing or crushing sugar cubes, limes and herbs, and a bartender’s friend are also handy. A mixing glass with strainer is used for making drinks that are stirred, not shaken. Other accessories that are useful: an ice bucket, ice tongs, and a juice squeezer.

GlassesThe traditional martini glass is a familiar icon, with its open face and slim stem. The cocktail glass is similar to the martini glass but with a slightly rounded bowl. The rocks or old-fashioned glass is a squat, straight-sided glass. The highball and the collins glasses come in various sizes but they are all tall, slim glasses designed to keep a

OCEAN VIEW 33

IRRESISTIBLE RECIPES

34 OCEAN VIEW

long drink fresh and cold. The small, sturdy shot glass, is designed with one purpose: getting the drink from one’s glass into one’s mouth with minimal fuss. The champagne fl ute is perfect for keeping the sparkle in your champagne cocktails. It should be elegant and long-stemmed with a narrow rim to enhance the delicacy of the drink.

TechniquesThere are six basic ways of creating a cocktail: building, blending, shaking, stirring over ice, layering and muddling. Whichever method you are using, measure the ingredients accurately to get the balance of tastes right. The process of building a


Brandy AlexanderThe Brandy Alexander is the perfect after-dinner cocktail, luscious and seductive and great for chocolate lovers. It’s important though, to get the proportions right so that the brandy stands out as the major investor.

Ingredients50 ml brandy12.5ml créme de cacao (dark and white)12.5ml double creamnutmeg

MethodShake all the ingredients over ice and strain into a frosted martini glass. Garnish with a sprinkle of nutmeg.

Harvey WallbangerThe story goes that Harvey, a Californian surfer who had performed particularly badly in an important contest, visited his local bar to drown his sorrows. He ordered hisusual screwdriver - only to decide that it wasn’t strong enough for what he had in mind. Scanning the bar for something to boost his drink, his eyes fell on the distinctively shaped Galliano bottle, a shot of which was then added to the drink as a fl oat. Needless to say, his resultant state after a few of these was so rocky that, as he searched for the door on the way out, he bounced off onto the street. Harvey Wallbanger, they called him.

Ingredients50ml vodka 12.5ml Gallianofresh orange juiceorange slice

MethodPour a large measure of vodka into a highball glass fi lled with ice. Fill the glass almost to the top with orange juice and pour in a fl oat of Galliano. Garnish with an orange slice and serve with a swizzle stick and straw.

cocktail just requires adding the measured ingredients to the right glass, with ice, and giving it a quick stir before serving. The blending method involves pouring all the ingredients into a blender, adding crushed ice and fl icking the switch. Using a shaker is the most enjoyable way to mix a cocktail, both for you and your guests. Add the ingredients to the shaker and fi ll it withice. The shaking movement should be sharp but do keep your hands on both parts of the shaker or at least a fi nger on the cap.Drinks containing egg white, cream and juices should be shaken for slightly longer than the usual ten seconds. Stirring is the best method when you want to retain the

clarity and strength of the spirits in cocktails such as a Manhattan. Use an ice-fi lled mixing glass and stir carefully to avoid chipping the ice and diluting the drink. Frost your serving glasses by leaving them in the freezer for an hour before use. Layering is used for drinks such as the White Russian. With the fl at end of a barspoon resting on the surface of the base spirit, pour each of the remaining spirits in turn down the handle of the spoon. This keeps the ingredients separate and allows them to be tasted one at a time. Muddling involves using the fl at end of a barspoon or a muddler to mix or crush ingredients such as fruit or herbs to gently release the fl avours.

Our Favourite Cocktail Recipes

OPPOSITE: Brandy Alexander

OCEAN VIEW 35

36 OCEAN VIEW

MojitoThe Mojito with its alluring mix of mint and rum, invariably whisks its drinker away to warmer climes. Championed by Hemingway in the 1940s and wildly popular in Miami for years, this Cuban concoction can now be found gracing the menus of discerning cocktail bars worldwide.

Ingredients50 ml golden rum5 sprigs of mint2 dashes of sugar syrupa dash of fresh lime juicesoda water

MethodPut the mint into a highball, add the run, lime juice and sugar syrup and press with a barspoon until the aroma of the mint is released. Add the crushed ice and stir vigorously until the mixture and the mint is spread evenly. Top with soda water and stir again. Serve with straws.


Pink GinPink Gin is a thoroughly British cocktail which deserves a premium gin. Although it originated as a medicinal potion in the British Navy, Pink Gin became one of the smartest drinks in 1940s London.

Ingredients50ml gina dash of Angostura bitters

MethodRinse a frosted sherry or martini glass with Angostura bitters, add chilled gin and serve

The Cocktail Hourby Ben Reed, with photography by William Lingwood, ispublished by Ryland Peters & Small www.rylandpeters.comReader Offer: The Cocktail Hour is available to readers of Ocean View for the special price of £5.99 including postage & packaging (rrp £6.99) by telephoning Macmillan Direct on 01256 302 699 and quoting the reference GLR 4AX.

ABOVE: Pink Gin OPPOSITE: Mojito

OCEAN VIEW 37

Pink Gin

38 OCEAN VIEW

Humans and lobsters have a long history together. Long before we knew much about this crustacean, lobsters found their way into artistic creations as a revered shellfish, symbol, status or otherwise. Spiny lobsters adorn a fifteenth-century BC Egyptian temple in an aquatic scene depicting new, fascinating animals and plants from an expedition down the Red Sea along the coast of East Africa. As early as the first century BC, spiny lobsters appeared in a mosaic floor in the dining room of ancient Pompeii and in Virgil’s Aeneid, as Palinurus, the helmsman of the Trojan fleet. They are part of a mosaic floor in the dining room of a Pompeian house depicting how the floor would look after the diners had finished – leaving the inedible shells and bones ‘dropped under the tables’.

The world’s love affair with lobster began out of necessity. It wasn’t a mutual affection though: it was as lopsided as un-requited love. Humans needed to eat and the crustacean was often within easy reach by hand, spear, long hook, baskets and later nets and traps. But the shellfish eventually became more than just grub – its status shifted from vital protein to pauper’s food to cultural icon. This relationship has always been complex. When lobsters were abundant

many coastal dwellers disdained them. But their popularity with wealthy urban diners drove innovations that nearly annihilated the stocks. It was through these innovations and mass marketing that lobster ended up on dinner plates in Tokyo, Japan and Dubuque, Iowa. Clearly, this affaire d’amour isn’t a tawdry fling. It’s a long-term relationship.

What Cooks Should KnowThose looking for the most delectable lobster preparation might turn to Boston chef Jasper White, who agrees that using ocean water produces ‘the briny-sweet taste of the sea’, and believes in not crowding a lobster pot. White, author of Lobster at Home and one of America’s foremost chefs, wants to keep the essence of the shellfish and advises steaming rather than boiling lobsters. In his opinion, the meat is more tender when cooked more slowly with steam and the true flavour is preserved, since the steam doesn’t dilute the lobster.

British chef Rick Stein takes a completely different ap proach to chilling and killing lobster. In his cookbook Rick Stein’s Complete Seafood he directs the cook to put the lobster in the freezer for two hours to kill it without pain and then boil it in heavily salted water – 150 g/½ cup of salt for

every 4.5 litres/10 pints of water. After dropping the lobster in the pot and bringing the water back to a boil, cook 750 g/1½ lb for fifteen minutes and 1.25 kg/2½ lb for twenty minutes.

It’s not clear who first came up with the idea of putting a lobster in the freezer to kill it before cooking, but Larousse Gastronomique, a proponent of this method, credits the British Universities Federation for Animal Welfare for the inspiration. There is one additional tip that Larousse offers: after plunging the lobster head-first into a pot holding even more salted boiling water than previous suggestions (4.5 litres or 1 gallon, 5 qt for each lobster), hold it down with a wooden spoon for at least two minutes.

If you’re thinking about eating a dead lobster, think again. Forget cooking any shellfish – crab, clam, lobster, mussel or oyster – that has died before you prepare it. Immediately after death lobsters begin to decay from their digestive system enzymes. So lobsters taste best cooked live. If you’re uneasy about cooking one or are in a hurry, you can buy them conveniently cooked or frozen. If you buy a cooked lobster and the meat is like ‘soft, woolly flesh’, Stein warns, it was cooked after dying.

Cracking the LobsterAre you scared of cooking a lobster? Elisabeth Townsend reveals what cooks should know about the preparation and cooking of the crustacean, along with a brief insight into its history, which is as rich as the luxurious meat itself. All designed so that you can embrace rather than revere the most luxurious of seafoods.

SEAFOOD: THE ESSENTIAL LOBSTER

OCEAN VIEW 39

A New York dockworker displays rare giant lobster claws at

the Fulton fi sh market in 1943.

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40 OCEAN VIEW

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Let’s say you opt for live lobsters to prepare at home. It’s vital to purchase vigorous specimens from a trusted source on the same day you plan to cook them. It’s obvious that Jasper White lives near the coast because he suggests buying them directly from a lobster boat or a lobster co-op or company found near the ocean, ensuring fresh lobsters. Look for a bustling market that sells a lot of lobsters. White calls supermarkets the last option for procuring these shellfish because the focus usually is not on fresh, high-turnover s ea food.

Healthy lobsters are frisky, waving their claws and flapping their tails when pulled from the water. Of course, they do this to make killing them even harder. No matter what, avoid the ones with short or algae-covered antennae, lifeless tails or drooping claws. Don’t worry about the rubber bands or wooden pegs on the claws of American lobsters – there’s no evidence that they affect the taste and it’s safer both for cooks and their companions to leave them on. (And, since these lobsters are cannibals, they may try to eat their dinner mates).

White advocates buying the hardest-shelled lobster. He suggests shaking it tenderly to see if it ‘rattles’, which indicates that it’s soft rather than the preferred meaty texture. But he admonishes the cook to be flexible in choosing quality over size, especially since he believes lobsters taste best up to 2.25 kg (5 lb).

How long can you keep a lobster alive out of water, especially if you can’t cook it the same day? A common answer is one to two days. Under the best storage conditions, White believes robust ones can survive three to five days, while frail ones may die within a day. Bayer says that it depends on their stage of moult. Yet a

new soft-shell lobster may survive a day or less, and it’s all because of its oxygen-carrying pigments (soft-shelled lobsters are less efficient at extracting oxygen from moisture). It also hinges on how you store them. Bayer recommends moist newspaper or paper towels but preferably dampened with seawater in a refrigerator (although, at a pinch, tap water works). Howard Hillman, author of The New Kitchen Science, writes that they can extract oxygen from the moisture that clings to their gills, and should be kept at about 10º c (50º f), ideally on a bed of wet seaweed. Be advised that according to Hillman the sweet flavour will fade after one to two days of storage. Bayer recommends the sniff test – a fresh lobster

should not smell like anything; otherwise it’s not fresh or edible.

Assuming that after storing and killing your lobster, you still want to eat it, where to start? The most formidable part of the American lobster is also the most delectable. The two claws are their biggest defensive weapons that they use to pro tect their smooth, thin shell. The larger crusher claw can crunch opponents and other shellfish; the smaller is the more manoeuvrable pincer, ripper or cutter claw. The tail or substantially muscled abdomen contains firm, deli cious meat. Flavoursome morsels in the body cavity and in the ten legs are often overlooked even by discerning diners. (Avoid the gills, inedible feather-like strands in the body.)

As with any animal, lobsters also have organs, some with strange names. ‘Tomalley’ is one of the most prized parts of the lobster, savoured alone for its richness or in flavoursome sauces. But that flavour may come at a price. This mushy green material found in the body cavity, often called the

“The most formidable part of the American lobster is also the most delectable.”


ABOVE: Willem Kalf, Drinking Horn with a Lobster on a Table, 1650, oil on canvas. Lobsters wereincluded in Dutch still lifes as a symbol of luxury

Pho

to C

red

it ©

Nat

iona

l Gal

lery

, Lon

don

42 OCEAN VIEW

Fred Olsen OCEAN VIEW MAGAZINE Advert Full page Dec 2011.indd 1 12/13/2011 9:57:11 AM

OCEAN VIEW 43

liver, is the lobster’s filter and storage centre for environmental toxins including heavy metals, pcbs and pesticide residues. To be precise, it is really a combination of liver, pancreas and digestive tract. In addition to those toxins, another concern, paralytic shellfish poisoning (psp) or red tide, also produces toxins in the food lobsters eat, such as clams and mussels. The roe (only in female lobsters), sometimes called coral after its colour when cooked, is also valued for its intense flavour in sauces and soups. So far there are no warnings on this delicacy. If it is red-pink and hard, it has been overcooked. The coral is found in the body and into the tail. Assum ing you can find it, the stomach is not generally eaten but is not poisonous. Whatever their original colour – blue, black, brown, green or violet – lobsters always turn red, or more accurately reddish orange, when they’re cooked (apart from the white ones). The heat from cooking releases the yellowish red carotene-like pigment in the shell.

Besides the incomparable lobster flavour, there are many other good reasons to eat lobster meat. There are fewer calories, cholesterol and fat in Atlantic lobster than in skinless white chicken meat, lean beef or poached eggs, but only if you eat it without butter or a sauce. It also contains various healthy vitamins and minerals.

Chill a live lobster for 15 to 30 minutes in a home freezer until it appears lethargic. (Do not freeze it to death.) Cut the lobster in half, starting where the tail meets the body, all the way up through the head and then back down through the tail. Take out the gills (inedible feather-like strands) from the carcass. Crack the shell of the claws. Lightly salt the lobster halves, drizzle with oil and roast in a preheated oven at 220ºc (425ºf) until translucent or about 15–20 minutes. Take out the meat from the tail and claws and cut into ½ to ¼ inch (3–5 mm) cubes. Prepare a very thick béchamel or cream sauce:

1–2 servings

2 tablespoons butter2 tablespoons flour½ teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon pepper1/8 teaspoon nutmeg2 cups/450 ml milk2 eggs

Make a stock with equal parts of meat juices, fish fumet and white wine.Add chervil, chopped shallots and tarragon to the stock. Reduce until it has thickened, and add 1 teaspoon of English mustard and a little of the thick béchamel or cream sauce to it. Boil the sauce for 2–5 minutes. Whisk in ¼ cup/ 60 g butter. Pour enough sauce into the two halves of the shell to lightly coat the shells. Add the lobster meat to the shells and pour the remainder of the sauce onto the meat. Then top with 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese and 2 tablespoons melted butter, and brown briefly in a preheated oven at 240ºc (475ºf).

For an easier version, the lobster can be cut in half and grilled. Empty the two halves of the shell, coat them with a little cream sauce seasoned with 1 teaspoon English mustard (see cream sauce recipe above). Fill them with the sliced lobster flesh, cover with the same sauce and brown in the oven. Serve the lobster immediately.


RIGHT: Sir John Tenniel, ‘Lobster’. This wood engragaving is for Lewis Carroll’s book Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (1861).

Lobster A Global History by Elisabeth Townsend. Published by Reaktion books, £9.99 www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

A Classic Lobster Thermidor

Fred Olsen OCEAN VIEW MAGAZINE Advert Full page Dec 2011.indd 1 12/13/2011 9:57:11 AM

44 OCEAN VIEW

ST PETER PORT

CHERBOURG

PORTSMOUTH

ROUEN

DUNKIRK

HELIGOLAND

IJMUIDEN

HARWICH

WHY CHOOSE THIS CRUISE?

D-Day Landing Beaches – on the anniversary of this great historic event• Medieval cities of Bayeux & Rouen• Tiny Heligoland – a former British

colony• Amsterdam – picturesque capital of

the Netherlands• World War II sites of Dunkirk &

Arnhem

YOUR gUEST SpEakERS InClUdE:ANNe-MARIe HARRIsoN

Born in France, Anne-Marie Harrison took a degree in english. After living in the Far east for 16 years, she returned to France, began lecturing and pursued her enthusiasms and education with a Masters degree in Anthropology.

BRIgADIeR HugH WILLINgHugh Willing was a professional soldier for 36 years. Whilst serving in NATo Headquarters in Holland he was able to visit many european battlefields,oftenwithhisNATOcolleagues, which provided an alternative perspective and balance to the official accounts.

0800 954 0791 Web: www.gocruise.co.uk

D-DAY, NoRMANDY, DuNKIRK and BeYoND5th juNe – 13th juNe 2012

ITINeRARY pORTSmOUTH - 5th june Dep 6pm CHERbOURg (France) 6th june Arr 12 noon Dep 6pmsail along the coastline and remember the brave men who took part in the D-Day landings on the 6th june 1944.

ST pETER pORT (guernsey, Channel Islands)7th june Arr 7am Dep 4.30pmA tapestry of architectural styles tells a story of the changing fortunes of this town.

ROUEn (France)8th & 9th june Arr 8am overnight Dep 1.30pmBombing raids during World War II laid waste to much of the city.

dUnkIRk (France)10th june Arr 7am Dep 1.30pmThesettingin1940forthegreatestevacuationoperationinall military history.

HElIgOland (germany)11th june Arr 10am Dep 6pmBritain traded Heligoland for Zanzibar in 1890.

IJmuiden (netherlands)12th june Arr 9am Dep 6pmHolland’s historic capital with its lacework of canals, countless 17th and 18th century townhouses, thousands of bicyclesandwonderfulflowermarkets.

HaRWICH (England) - 13th june Arr 7am

InClUdEd In THE pRICE:8-night cruise aboard Discovery including all meals, entertainment and port charges• Comprehensive guest speaker programme

throughout the cruise• All on board gratuities – other cruise lines add

up to £151 per couple to your bill• All on board service charges – other cruise lines

add up to 18% to your bill • Free parking at Harwich (worth £67) with

complimentary coach to Portsmouth at the start of your cruise or free coach from Harwich to Portsmouth at the end of your cruise

• Free return coach transfer from London Victoria

SUpplEmEnTaRY TRanSpORT OpTIOnS:

• Return coach from Birmingham £35pp• Return coach from Manchester £45pp

9 days aboard MV Discovery from £855 pp

To book this cruise at this amazing price call us today:

£200on board

credit & free

transport

EXCLUSIVE

GOCRUISE

PRICING & BENEFITS

All prices are per person based on 2 sharing a lead in category cabin. All prices are subject to availability and can be changed and or withdrawn at any time. Free transport is a return coach from London Victoria. Returns from other cities are available at a supplement. ABTA J5035. Terms and Conditions apply.

OCEAN VIEW 45

EXPLORING BRITAIN’S COASTLINE

If you have seen the recent BBC series ‘Coast’ and it has inspired you to explore the endlessly fascinating British coastline, as we have been, then why not take a trip with us through the unspoilt beauty of Northumberland? And if you haven’t seen the programme, we hope we can encourage you to put on your walking boots

Coasting

The Cradle of English Christianity Your Northumbrian coastal adventure begins at the delightful village of Bamburgh, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Berwick-upon-Tweed, but try to put aside an extra day to visit the nearby Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Famous as the cradle of English Christianity, nothing survives from St Aidan’s original priory, founded in AD 635 but destroyed two centuries later by uninvited guests from Denmark. The site is also associated with Cuthbert who, when his body was found miraculously undecayed 11 years after his death, turned Lindisfarne into a place of pilgrimage. The remains of a later Benedictine priory, the Norman Church of St Mary’s and a photogenic 16th century castle perched on a small hilltop all help togive the small island a unique and many say a spiritual feel, helped in no small measure by the fact that it is cut off daily by a tidal causeway. The vast mudfl ats exposed at low tide are nationally important for wading birds, and with a low and unspoilt shore of dunes and rough beach, what better way

The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, which was once one of the largest and

grandest castles in the north-east of England, can only be reached by foot.

This walk takes you directly to it.

ST PETER PORT

CHERBOURG

PORTSMOUTH

ROUEN

DUNKIRK

HELIGOLAND

IJMUIDEN

HARWICH

WHY CHOOSE THIS CRUISE?

D-Day Landing Beaches – on the anniversary of this great historic event• Medieval cities of Bayeux & Rouen• Tiny Heligoland – a former British

colony• Amsterdam – picturesque capital of

the Netherlands• World War II sites of Dunkirk &

Arnhem

YOUR gUEST SpEakERS InClUdE:ANNe-MARIe HARRIsoN

Born in France, Anne-Marie Harrison took a degree in english. After living in the Far east for 16 years, she returned to France, began lecturing and pursued her enthusiasms and education with a Masters degree in Anthropology.

BRIgADIeR HugH WILLINgHugh Willing was a professional soldier for 36 years. Whilst serving in NATo Headquarters in Holland he was able to visit many european battlefields,oftenwithhisNATOcolleagues, which provided an alternative perspective and balance to the official accounts.

0800 954 0791 Web: www.gocruise.co.uk

D-DAY, NoRMANDY, DuNKIRK and BeYoND5th juNe – 13th juNe 2012

ITINeRARY pORTSmOUTH - 5th june Dep 6pm CHERbOURg (France) 6th june Arr 12 noon Dep 6pmsail along the coastline and remember the brave men who took part in the D-Day landings on the 6th june 1944.

ST pETER pORT (guernsey, Channel Islands)7th june Arr 7am Dep 4.30pmA tapestry of architectural styles tells a story of the changing fortunes of this town.

ROUEn (France)8th & 9th june Arr 8am overnight Dep 1.30pmBombing raids during World War II laid waste to much of the city.

dUnkIRk (France)10th june Arr 7am Dep 1.30pmThesettingin1940forthegreatestevacuationoperationinall military history.

HElIgOland (germany)11th june Arr 10am Dep 6pmBritain traded Heligoland for Zanzibar in 1890.

IJmuiden (netherlands)12th june Arr 9am Dep 6pmHolland’s historic capital with its lacework of canals, countless 17th and 18th century townhouses, thousands of bicyclesandwonderfulflowermarkets.

HaRWICH (England) - 13th june Arr 7am

InClUdEd In THE pRICE:8-night cruise aboard Discovery including all meals, entertainment and port charges• Comprehensive guest speaker programme

throughout the cruise• All on board gratuities – other cruise lines add

up to £151 per couple to your bill• All on board service charges – other cruise lines

add up to 18% to your bill • Free parking at Harwich (worth £67) with

complimentary coach to Portsmouth at the start of your cruise or free coach from Harwich to Portsmouth at the end of your cruise

• Free return coach transfer from London Victoria

SUpplEmEnTaRY TRanSpORT OpTIOnS:

• Return coach from Birmingham £35pp• Return coach from Manchester £45pp

9 days aboard MV Discovery from £855 pp

To book this cruise at this amazing price call us today:

£200on board

credit & free

transport

EXCLUSIVE

GOCRUISE

PRICING & BENEFITS

All prices are per person based on 2 sharing a lead in category cabin. All prices are subject to availability and can be changed and or withdrawn at any time. Free transport is a return coach from London Victoria. Returns from other cities are available at a supplement. ABTA J5035. Terms and Conditions apply.

46 OCEAN VIEW

to explore Holy Island than the wonderful 10-mile (16-km) walk around its entire coastline?Back to the mainland and to another eyecatching fortifi cation. Bamburgh Castle not so much overlooks the pretty coastal village as dominates it.

The Lure of the Farne IslandsThe easy, obvious and delightful way to reach Seahouses from Bamburgh is simply to walk along the broad ribbon of golden sand that stretches southwards seemingly without end. As you head along the beach you will notice a cluster of tiny islands about a mile or so offshore. These are the Farne Islands, and they represent theeasternmost outcrop of the Whin Sill, a striking basalt ridge that extends intermittently across much of northern England. This volcanic rock, known as dolerite, is particularly tough and resistant to weathering, and it stands out in the landscape as high and solid dark cliffs. It was used to great advantage by the Romans who built some of Hadrian¹s Wall along its dark crags, but here on the coast it forms the foundations for Bamburgh Castle, as well as Dunstanburgh, which you¹ll visit a little later on in the walk. Offshore, the Whin Sill has created a patchwork of islets and dark reefs, and in years gone by they have proved deadly forpassing ships. Most visitors to the Farne Islands come for the seabirds, with daily boat trips from Seahouses giving visitors a chance to get up close to a wonderful array of birds from gannets and shearwaters through to kittiwakes and razorbills. During breeding season there are thousands of puffi ns, wobbling about rather comically on the cliffside and fl ying around with beaks full of sand eels. Then there are huge colonies of guillemots, crowded together on ledges where without any nest they lay their single egg, shaped like a pear so that it spins round on its narrow end and doesn’t roll off.Even if you opt not to land and instead go on one of the round-island cruises, there are the two lighthouses (old and new) to inspect, plus the inevitability of meeting one or two grey seals along the way.Tickets for the Farnes are sold from a line of kiosks on Seahouses harbour, a compact little place that is often busy with fi shing boats, yachts and pleasurecraft. The cafés, amusement arcade and souvenir shops give the small town a touristy feel, but you can avoid most of this by leaving the harbour on the clifftop footpath around Snook Point to Annstead Links. If the tide is low, Annstead Burn is fordable, but otherwise you’ll have to detour the short distance to the coast road.

Beyond is more glorious beach walking south to Beadnell, a small community with two popular pubs serving good-quality meals. Again, much of this is hidden if you stick to the shore, but it is worth pausing by the tiny harbour with its preserved 18th century limekilns, which are now in the hands of the National Trust.

“During breeding season there are thousands of puffi ns, wobbling about rather comically on the cliffside and fl ying around with beaks full of sand eels”


OPPOSITE: Although Bamburgh Castle has been rebuilt many times, few such coastal defences can enjoy such an imposing position

OCEAN VIEW 47

48 OCEAN VIEW

To discover more detail about this route and other coastal walks read:Britain’s Best Coastal Walks by Andrew McCloy, with photography by Stephen Whitehorne. Published by New Holland Publishers, £12.99 www.newhollandpublishers.com

OPPOSITE: The glorious sandy sweep of Beadnell Bay is backed by deep dunes, some of which are home to nesting terns in the summer.

Ahead is the graceful sweep of Beadnell Bay, a sublime stretch of sand backed by huge and sprawling dunes. There’s a public footpath behind the dune system that takes you on a sturdy footbridge across a small river called Long Nanny, which is essential if the tide’s not in your favour.

This is also the best route to avoid disturbing the nesting terns, which between May and August breed on Newton Links. The National Trust fence off the sensitive area, and wardens patrol the area around the clock to guard against disturbance. You can visit the specially erected viewing platform, next to their little wooden hut, by following a marked route from the back of the dunes, but please adhere to the waymarks and keep dogs on leads at all times. The colony can support as many as 1,700 Arctic terns, plus some little terns and ringed plover.

The Ruins of DunstanburghAt the far end of Beadnell Bay a path continues around two low headlands, separated by a tiny beach known rather mysteriously as Football Hole, then drops down to Newton Haven and the lovely hamlet of Low Newton-by-the-Sea. Here,by an immaculate square of whitewashedcottages, is the alluring Ship Inn, particularly well sited to quench the thirst of dry-throated walkers.The low-tide route across the beach continues around to Embleton Bay and almost 1½ miles (2.4 km) of smooth sand that ends with a series of rocky ledges and large boulders. Join the path that has been shadowing the beach via the links golfcourse behind the dunes, and follow this ahead and beneath the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. Defences were begun in the 1300s, and for a while it was held by John of Gaunt for the House of Lancaster and played a brief but important role during the Wars of the Roses. But the castle was seized by the Yorkists on two occasions and was severely damaged byartillery, and after changing hands several

times it fell into serious disrepair. By 1550 it was described as ruinous, which makes it even more remarkable that 500 or so years on some of it is still standing.Continue south to Craster, a fi shing village once renowned for its kippers. At the beginning of the last century, this modestly sized community boasted twenty boats and four herring yards, where the fi sh were unloaded, split and gutted, then either packed in barrels of salt for export to Germany and Russia, or smoked ready for sending off to Billingsgate Market in London. Smoking traditionally takes placebetween June and September, when the fi sh are plump and their oil content is high, and involves the herring being hung over fi res of oak sawdust for 10 14 hours to produce the distinctive reddishbrown kipper. The yard run by L. Robson and Sons (dating from 1906) still survives, and oak-smokedsalmon as well as kippers are on sale in thesmokehouse shop, or can be sampled in thenext-door restaurant.

OCEAN VIEW 49


“it is worth pausing by the tiny harbour with its preserved 18th century limekilns, which are now

in the hands of the National Trust.”

50 OCEAN VIEW

When travelling abroad, the local food, drink and climate can all have an effect on the balanceof bacteria in your digestive system.

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*S tudies on file. Bimuno TRAVELAID is the result of nine years of intensive scientific research with the University of Reading. Bimuno is a food supplement. Food supplements are intended to supplement your diet and should not beregarded as a substitute for a varied diet and a healthy lifestyle. Bimuno® is a registered trademark which is the property of Clasado Inc for a Prebiotic Transgalactooligosaccharide.

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OCEAN VIEW 51

SAILING SOLO AROUND THE WORLD: ONE MAN’S ADVENTURE

Lucky HandLes Powles had just eight hours sailing experience when he set o� to sail solo around theworld on his yacht Solitaire named after the card game. Luckily, he managed to survive his � rst adventure and now we join him on his second world voyage, as he heads towards Cape Horn on his journey home through � erce squalls.

By dawn I needed a rest. I was tired but it was a satisfi ed tiredness.Solitaire, the sea and I had spent an almost enjoyable night,each playing his or her part without taking too many liberties.Politely the seas had kept out of the cockpit and for once Solitairehad been glad of my helping hand on her tiller. As for me, well,it’s always satisfying to feel needed for something more than a sailchange or a bilge pump. Week 26 ended on a Tuesday and I struggled to work out howI had managed to lose a day. My navigational fi gures were stillcoming out correct so I did not worry too much about it. Theweek’s run was 682 miles. Week 27 passed with no tragedies, although I ruined the fi lmin Rome’s camera. I had a choice of keeping the half of fi lm withthe whale photos or the half with the photos of the Japanese boats.I plumped for the whales. The sores on my back worsened and Itried washing them with a strong solution of seawater and Dettol.My gums bled even when left uncleaned and new bones I did noteven know I had started to develop. I baked golf balls of bread,sawed them into washers and fried them. Spread with a thin fi lm ofjam they could be sucked like pebbles and I would enter in the logthat I was on the pill. If they provided any nourishment my bonesignored it and stuck out in protest. On Friday, January 9th, Solitaire and I had been alone at seafor six months. The idea of rounding Cape Horn had been bornduring our stay in Tahiti in 1976. Five years later all that stoodbetween us and our ambition were a few thousand miles of deepwater. Thinking of the seas to come I glassed in the lower board ofthe main hatch, which I hated doing as I was now virtually sealedbelow. The rear cockpit cover remained to be glassed but that

I could leave to the last minute. The week’s run was 640 miles,16,695 in all and 4,000 miles short of Cape Horn. A week later we were 631 miles closer, still experiencing gales and confused seas, which baffl ed Solitaire and crew. During a heavy rainfall I managed to collect 7 gallons of water via the mainsail. Mostly I complained about my lack of headsails. Often I hadto drop the mainsail when the wind increased because of too muchweather helm and would have given anything for a strong numbertwo genoa. Time passed quickly, marked only by pencil on a chart. Oneday a whale surfaced alongside us as I was putting a reef in themain. One minute the sea was empty (birds apart), the next we hadan upside-down super-tanker alongside. It took some moments toappreciate that something so large could be alive. Although there ismuch that scares the living daylights out of me, creatures of the seamanage only to rouse my intense interest in their activities. I dashedbelow for a camera but by the time I returned the whale had gone.At no time did I feel it threatened Solitaire and for a long time Ilingered in the cockpit and felt lonely when it failed to reappear.

“We would round it, possibly without mast or instruments, food or water, but dead or alive we would pass Cape Horn”









NEW


52 OCEAN VIEW

OCEAN VIEW 53


We had some vicious storms, during one of which Solitairewas knocked on her side and the Bosun compass in the rear of thecockpit leapt out of its plastic holder and fi nished wedged againsta gas bottle. I had to make a dash to retrieve it between breakingwaves, minus wet weather gear or harness. There were days whenwe sailed under clear blue skies, the ocean swell hardly noticedbelow decks. Solitaire snoozed along at 4 knots with no more noiseor movement than when sitting in her berth at Lymington. Then we passed our point of no return, much as jet aircraftdo when fl ying the Atlantic. From now on Solitaire would standa better chance of surviving by rounding Cape Horn rather thanreturning to New Zealand, and this engendered a great sense ofrelief. We would round it, possibly without mast or instruments,food or water, but dead or alive we would pass Cape Horn. In week 29 we recorded 630 miles, and the following week679 more. I ran the engine for the last time and glassed in therear cockpit locker, which meant that from now on I wouldhave to crawl through from the cabin to reach the exhaust pipeseacock. There were a hundred things I wished I could have donefor Solitaire and I hoped she knew this. If I had had the money, Iwould have given her the fi nest headsails spun from the fi nest silks. Week 31 was the week in which I opened Rome’s parcel, and thefi rst week since the Cape of Good Hope storm that I experiencedreal fear. It had started well enough. Storms had become routine,a quick dash on deck to change down to the storm jib before thefeet iced up. The log shows our lack of concern. Wednesday, February 4th, 1981. No sights thanks to galeconditions with unbelievable squalls. Solitaire being thrown onher side. The sky keeps changing colour, blue to black to pink.Fantastic. Sailing under the storm jib only. Thursday, February 5th. No sights thanks to overcast skywith drizzle. Gales died during night but high seas ran until earlythis morning. Have changed to working jib and mainsail doublyreefed. Sea not too bad now. Water running off the mainsailbut not enough to catch for drinking. We are now deep into theloose ice area and the seas are bitterly cold. I have been wearingthe quilted trousers Margaret gave me, another present I can’tremember saying thank you for. Margaret said they had belongedto a butcher who spent most of his time in a refrigerated store. Idoubt if he ever imagined their being used to keep someone warmoff Cape Horn, but a magnifi cent present for which I’m trulygrateful. The height of fashion this season in the Southern Ocean

is Rex’s thermal jacket with a couple of sweaters and pairs of socksunder full storm gear and sea boots. At night I doze under two wet sleeping bags with thetemperature down to 40ºF by night and 50ºF on warmer days.The main problem is the damp cabin that allows nothing to dry.I can take off my quilted storm jacket below by day, but on deckfull gear is needed as the strong winds bite through sweaters andthe seas soon freeze hands. Provided you work quickly there’s noreal problem. Loss of weight still a major worry and my strength isgoing as well. Very concerned in case I have to climb the mast as Ijust don’t know how I would manage to pull myself up. My backcontinues to get worse. Most of my shirts have now been worn andare bloodstained. It seems a terrible thing to do but I sorted out thefew that seem reasonably free from fi lth and intend wearing themagain inside out. I tried washing one in salt water but it wouldnot dry properly and seemed to irritate my skin. Oh well, Rome’spresent tomorrow. We are about 1,400 miles from Cape Horn. I’llget sights when the sun pops out. Friday, February 6th. Still no sights, winds from west increasingto Force 6 to 7 as a few fi erce squalls came through. Visibilitydown to a few hundred yards. Drizzling with some heavy rainduring squalls. Have considered sitting in the cockpit and puttingup the main, trebly reefed, to catch fresh water. Solitaire swingingabout with just working jib so have given the idea a miss. At present I have 20 gallons of fresh water left. No worry as faras drinking is concerned but it would have helped hygiene to havewashed a few clothes. Opened the parcel from Rome and Annegretmarked ‘for cold weather sailing’. Everything inside is perfect...and so welcome. The conditions are better than I could have hopedfor although below they are pretty foul and the cabin smell mustbe terrible, but I have to keep the hatch completely closed withthese following seas. As I don’t expect visitors I’m not worryingtoo much about spraying air fresheners. Once or twice a week Itreat myself to a throat and cheek shave and the lingering smell ofsoap in my beard gives pleasure for hours. I’ve now read all mybest books through twice but with this parcel Rome has included anew book. The food and chocolate will give me special treats for aweek. Without my friends back home I would have still made thisvoyage but oh how much I owe them. I just hope we can make itback to thank them properly for all their kindness. Saturday, February 7th. Sights put us at latitude 50º18’ S butit’s a bit of a guess as the horizon is so hazy, thanks to the drizzle,

“Solitaire suffered her worst knockdown since leaving England. For the past few days I have been frightened, not when the wind was screaming but when it suddenly stopped”

54 OCEAN VIEW

PORTSMOUTH MARRIOTT HOTELWhere better to relax and enjoy the start of your cruise holiday than the ideally locatedPortsmouth Marriott Hotel. The Hotel has been transformed with the completion of its bedroom, meeting & leisure renovations. Dine in the stunning new AA Rosette awarded, Sealevel Restaurant and begin your culinary cruise experience in style.Start your holiday early to avoid the stress of travelling and embarkation. Enjoy the spacious guest rooms off ering a sleek and contemporary space to relax the night before your voyage, with world renowned plush bedding and high-speed internet access. Our exclusive package off ers complimentary entry to our extensive health club and refreshing indoor pool, the perfect way to recharge before your trip. After a full Marriott Breakfast let ustransfer you to the new Portsmouth Cruise Terminal just 7 minutes from the hotel.

Our exclusive pre international cruise package includes:Overnight accommodation in a standard deluxe bedroomFull Marriott breakfast in the AA Rosette awarded ʻSealevelʼ RestaurantComplimentary secure on site car parking for up to 21 days Transfer to the Portsmouth Cruise TerminalFree entrance to the Portsmouth Marriott Leisure Club and Pool

All this from just £122 at weekends and £175 midweek, per room per night, double occupancy.

For more information or to make your booking please call 0800 221222 option 1 and quote QZRPortsmouth Marriott HotelSouthampton Road, Portsmouth, Hampshire, PO6 4SH

OCEAN VIEW 55

but I’m pleased to have anything after fi ve days sailing on deadreckoning. Becalmed during night in fog, winds are now gustingfrom the west about Force 5 to 6 so working jib only. Sunday, February 8th. Solitaire suffered her worst knockdownsince leaving England. For the past few days I have been frightened,not when the wind was screaming but when it suddenly stopped.Without the background of its noise the sound of the breaking seasseemed to increase, and without the wind’s controlling hand onthe self-steering Solitaire ran like a child into thundering traffi c. IfI had to wait too long for the rogue waves and cross-seas to startslamming into Solitaire I would sit on the bunk and cover my earswith my hands, singing to drown the silence. Problems at dawn this morning. Very bad knockdown, workingjib damaged. All the piston hanks are broken and the luff wire haspulled out, halyard parted. I think I can save the sail but regret theloss of the halyard as I have only one left and if that goes it meansclimbing the mast. Solitaire is in a mess with bilge water all overthe place. At present winds gusting from the west at gale force withcross-seas from the south. Broad reaching with storm jib under asunny sky, which makes no sense. I will have to be more carefuluntil past Cape Horn. Port Stanley is now our nearest harbour,1,600 miles away even if I cut in close to the Cape. The bilge pumpis U/S so I’ve plenty of work for next two days. Longitude sightputs us 102º52’W, 25 miles behind our dead reckoning position.The seas have been too bad for sights over past few days. Pleasedto get anything. Worked all day on sail which might shape uptomorrow. At least it will make a good spare. Monday, February 9th. Seven months at sea. Rain or drizzleand no visibility. Winds from west. Had spare working jib upuntil this morning, then changed to storm jib when rogue wavesstarted breaking over Solitaire. Cape Horn lies on latitude 56ºS,approximately 1,260 miles to the east. I intend to go down to58ºS, putting us 120 miles below and well into the icebergs, muchlower than other single-handers. With only one halyard left andmy weakening condition I think it’s the safest thing to do. I don’twant Solitaire driven onto a lee shore without the use of her sailsto claw her way off. I’ve cut down further on food: now I boil twocups of rice to last three days but I still believe we can make thisvoyage non-stop. Working jib not yet mended. I can’t be sure howfar Solitaire went over in her knockdown. It happened so quicklythat I didn’t wake up until she had started to come up again. WhenI went on deck the jib was over the side, held only by its sheets and downhaul. Whether the hanks and halyard were broken when the waves hit or as she came up is anyone’s guess. The jib is covered with antifouling paint but the seams are OK and I have spare piston hanks. Tuesday, February 10th. Week 31’s run 614 miles, total 19,249miles. Good sights in a clear blue sky. Sea is fl at with high swell.Winds 3 to 4 from west. A perfect spring day. Temperature up to51ºF so able to dry out. Noon position, 53º51’ S 99º34’ W with

Cape Horn 1,200 miles to the east, only 129 miles south of our latitude.In week 32 we covered 643 miles, 45 miles below Cape Hornat 56º45’ W. Should we have lost our mast I thought we couldjury-rig a headsail and run past the Cape. We would even give theIslands of Diego Ramirez a wide berth, passing 15 miles to theirsouth. Solitaire was in good shape again. I had fi xed her bilgepump and mended her second working jib and she even lookedtidier below. All the water containers that had covered her cabinfl oor when we left Lymington 224 days before were now empty,and all but four stored in the forward compartment with the sparesails. My disco dancing could have been extended with the extrafl oor space, not that I felt too much like dancing. No signs ofdepression in the log although constant complaints about the lackof headsails, particularly a strong number two genoa. Food was a constant worry. The problems I had faced withmy bleeding back and gums had been only the beginning of manyproblems caused by a lack of fresh food and vitamins. Solitaire’smovement did more than irritate the sores; it seemed to wear awaythe fl esh. First I noticed my thighs, elbows and knees starting tostand out, then the fat disappeared. I still had muscles but no bodyweight with which to use them. Side effects included headaches,blurred vision and blackened toenails. I had enough food aboardto gorge myself silly for a few weeks and would often take some ofRome’s chocolate and suck it as long as I could make it last, then Iwould spend the rest of the night with the remains of the bar lyingonly inches away from my watering mouth, trying to keep my mindon other things, particularly Cape Horn, now only 500 miles ahead.

For more of Les’ adventures read:Solitaire Spirit: Three times around the world single handed, by Les Powles. Published by Adlard Coles Nautical, £9.99 www.adlardcoles.com


56 OCEAN VIEW

An Open

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agree that 80% are preventable. Somesimple screening tests can help put yourmind at rest. And, should anything bedetected early, you and your GP can dosomething about it now before it’s too late.

Your risk of a stroke doubles everydecade after you are 50. Almost one in fourmen and one in five women aged 45 canexpect to suffer a stroke if they live to 85.Wouldn’t it be comforting to know you hadreduced the chances of having a stroke orsuffering a debilitating condition?

So, if you like to face possible healthproblems rather than ignore them, call0800 046 7988 now – you could also save£101.

In your area soonOur team of screening experts will be inyour area soon, using exactly the samehigh-tech screening equipment as topprivate hospitals.

You may feel healthy … but what’s reallygoing on inside you? How would you feel ifyou knew there was nothing to worryabout?

Call FREE nowStrokes often occur without warning andwith no apparent symptoms. As one of ourclients said: “My wife and teenage childrenare happier now – it’s peace of mind at acertain age." (M. Bentley, Lancashire).

You don’t usually get these tests free onthe NHS unless you already havesymptoms. And they can be very expensiveprivately – costing £100’s when only two orthree tests are done a day. But we come toover 1,900 convenient community locationslike church halls, hotels and leisure centres,and by screening many people the cost isfar lower. We search for common causes ofstroke, death and disability. The tests arecompletely painless – you don't even haveto get undressed. If anything is revealed wetell you straight away so treatment can beprescribed by your GP.

SAVE £101 – CALL FREE NOWQUOTE CODE FPLU-176

0800 046 7988

SIDNEY LARCOMBE of Walsall, isglad he acted when he did:

It was found that I had very significantnarrowing of both carotid arteries.I have had an operation and,according to the surgeon, theywere very badly diseased...adisaster waiting to happen.I can’t thank you enough forvirtually saving my life.”

•To reduce your risk of stroke a 10 minute scanof your Carotid arteries examines blood flowto your brain, and “plaque”. (“Plaque” is the term for fatty deposits that can build upin your arteries, without showing anysymptoms)

•Your ECG Test checks for “Atrial Fibrillation”, a heart condition that canmultiply the risk of stroke by 5.

•Your ankle-brachial index test checks forhardening of the arteries, which affects 1in 6 people over 55. It may show nosymptoms but increases the risk of heartattack or stroke from 2 to 6 times.

•An Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm is a weak-ening of the wall of your largest arterythat causes it to grow in size. If it rup-tures, death occurs in 80% of cases. Weoffer an ultrasound screening for this.

Cutting-edge technology ensures that thescreening process is quick, convenient andpainless — you don’t even need to remove yourclothes. After your screening, your results aresent to you within 21 days and, if we spot apotentially serious risk, we’ll tell you on thesame day. Armed with the facts about yourhealth, you can also talk to your GP about thebest preventive measures to take.

Your quick, non-invasiveand painless checks to helpprevent stroke, heart diseaseand osteoporosis

‘‘

ANN SLOAN’s screening led to alifestyle change:

My screenings identified a serious problemwith my carotid arteries of which I was totallyunaware and for which I am now receivingtreatment. The results have also givenme the impetus to stop smokingfor good after over 40 years.I would recommend Life LineScreening to anyone — no matterhow healthy you might think youare. It could save your life.”

‘‘Stroke/

Carotid Artery

Heart Rhythm(Atrial Fibrillation)

AbdominalAortic Aneurysm

Heart DiseaseRisk (optional)

Peripheral ArterialDisease

Youmayfeel

healthyon the

outside...wouldn'tit be niceto know

just what’sgoing on

inside, too?

Osteoporosis(optional)

SCREENING TEST PRICEStroke / Carotid Artery £60Heart Rhythm / Atrial Fibrillation £60Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm £60Peripheral Arterial Disease £60TOTAL, FOR ALL 4 SCREENINGS £240Discount for Package -£101Special Package Price £139

TO BOOK, CALL FREE 0800 046 7988 TODAY and quote your OCEAN VIEW MAG voucher code FPLU–176

Should you need to cancel at any time before your appointment, call us for a full refund. Prices are based on pre-payment. Postal charges may apply.

You will receive our most detailed analysis of your vascular healthwhen you take all four screenings together – this can be arrangedat the same event taking little over an hour. This voucher enablesyou to save £101 off a full package, bringing the total to just £139.

SAVE £101Well, now it’s possible with a simpleultrasound screening that can revealdangerous plaque build-up or blockage,from Life Line Screening.

In just over 10 minutes, one of ourscans can help determine your risks forcardiovascular disease, the UK’s No.1killer.

As you age, fatty deposits known as‘plaque’ can build-up in your arteries.You may not notice any symptoms.This could be a sign of underlying risks,often referred to by doctors as ‘silentkillers’, because you are not aware untilit’s too late.

While check-ups with your doctor are

valuable, it is a fact that ultrasound is asuperior and more accurate approach toscreening potential victims of aorticaneurysms, and can visualise the build-up of deposits that can trigger a stroke.

Your full package of screenings willonly take about an hour of your time —and you will be notified right away ifyou have an immediate problem. Andremember, you’re in safe hands — LifeLine Screening have screened more than 7million men and women, and havehelped save thousands of lives.

Call FREE today on 0800 0467988 to find out when we will next bein your area.

What would your doctor say if he or shecould actually see inside your arteries?

With age, arteriescan become

partially blocked,or even collapse

Life Line Screening UK Ltd, Chatsworth House, 31 ChatsworthRoad, Worthing, West Sussex BN11 1LY. Co. Reg. No. 06228591

�

Plaque build-upreduces blood flow

and can lead tostroke and vascular

disease

Normal arteryallows blood

to flowthrough easily

Would you spare10 minutes toprevent a Stroke?

QUOTE CODE FPLU-176

The tests arecompletely

painless – youdon't even have to

get undressed

62 OCEAN VIEW

A PERSONAL STORY

Right Plaice, Right TimeOcean View Editor Samantha Scott-Je� ries has always been passionate about seafood, but she’s convinced that when we can get it, local, fresh � sh is best every time.

Some of my favourite food memories seem to feature fresh, locally caught fish. At nine, I was in a bikini, perched on a bar stool in ‘Jose’s Anchor Bar’ in the Algarve, eating the daily catch in oil, lemon and garlic, on an endless white plate that appeared almost larger than my tiny frame. At 15, my memory of a family birthday is prominent only for the whole squid that was presented to me at a bar in Spain. Within the simple atmosphere of scrubbed tables, strip fluorescent lighting and a television blaring from the corner, the lady of the house proudly presented me with a whole calamari a la plancha (from the grill) its tentacles golden and crispy, its smooth body gleaming white against a ring of freshly sliced tomatoes, when my aunt explained that I didn’t eat meat. After wincing at the thought of tackling what appeared to be an ugly seamonster through an embarrassed smile and firmly closed eyes, the delicate, contrasting textures were like nothing I’d ever known and have yet to be matched, however many times I’ve tried to order it since. Maybe my very favourite place for seafood, however, is the small family owned restaurant Es Mariner, in Port Sóller, Mallorca. Here, the owner serves the fish from the harbour that the simple restaurant overlooks in her slippers, her dog by her side, leaving her white haired mother behind

the bar. The fisherman’s soup with black rice, the rich seafood paella, the grilled fillets dressed in the sharpest salsa verde are made with whatever the fishermen discovered that day, and never seem to disappoint.. And this seems, to be the key. That fish, when it’s fresh, is fantastic, but it’s at its very best when caught and eaten

by the ocean or at least from the country from where it came. There is something undeniably perfect about salty haddock and chips on the British prom, the freshest Spaghetti Vongole overlooking the water in Italy, or garlicky prawns dipped in alioli on the Spanish shore. In our Sussex coastal home this winter, nothing has tasted better than a ‘dab in a bap’ - simple, delicate white fleshed fillets on crisp lettuce, smothered in homemade tartare sauce and carefully encased in floury white buns. We eat them

with our hands, the freshness of the fish reminding us that soon, we’ll eat in the garden, with the smell and sound of the salty sea in the distance. Sustainable and tasty, they’re a not so guilty (and inexpensive) pleasure. When the local fish is fresh, the recipe can be deliciously simple or elaborate, and we

needn’t feel irresponsible. Most of us are guilty of shunning ugly Gurnards, Pollack or Skate for not knowing what to do with them. Yet it can be mind boggling trying to decipher whether Atlantic or Pacific caught cod is a ‘green’ choice or which fish are rife in UK seas during their prime season whilst stood in a queue at Tesco. Unless you live by the water, it’s unlikely that there is a fishmonger with a wet fish counter who can tell you exactly what has been locally caught and how. However, in response to several chef backed campaigns last year, supermarkets are starting to take

note. The new regulations on labelling at counters are now worth squinting at, whilst the Marine Conservation website www.fishonline.org provides a comprehensive guide to seafood fish by fish. Should you then be bold and spice up your weekly shop with seafood you have no idea how to cook? Hugh’s Fearnley-Whittingstall’s website www.fishfight.net offers an abundance of recipes. You can then be sure that your fish dish will delight and still leave plenty more in the sea.

Port Sóller, Mallorca

OCEAN VIEW 63

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Ocean View Spring 2012