Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan

Khadi & Village Industries Commission ON Ministry of Micro Small & Medium Enterprises 4T FRAIR/Govt. of India

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Khadi India -,ateNI fafoeT,fE HrH,T Roc-110 001

K-Block, Choudhary Building, Connaught Circus, New Delhi-110 00 :011-01123418126, E-mail: kgbndgs@gmail.com

S 7549 2021

Indian Standard

TEXTILES-COTTON KHADI DURRIES- SPECIFICATION

1 SCOPE 4 MANUFACTURE

1.1 This standard prescribes constructional particulars and other rcquirements for ifour varieties of cotton

khad1 DRRIES.

4.1 Yarn

The yam used in the manufacture of DURRIES shal bc hand-spun from clean carded cotton. It shall bc rcasonably even and free from leaf particles. slubs, neps and othcr spinning defects. The approximate count of warp and weft yarn is given in Table 1.

1.2 This standard does not specify general appearance. feel. finish. etc. of the DURRY.

2 REFERENCES 4.2 The DURRIES shall be woven in plain weave. The

The standards listed in Annex A contain provisiums. number of ends included in cach sclvedge shall be 8in which through referencein this text. constitute provisions of this standard. At the time of publication. the editions indicatcd were valid. AlI standards are L.l The warp threads al each end of DURRIES shal

subjeci to revision and parties to agreements based

on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the ne transversC ends ot DURRIES shall be spliced.

standards indicated in AnnexA.

last two dents.

be knotted together to form a fringe measuring 5 cm and to prevent fraying of wefl threads. Alternatively,

5 REQUREMENTs

CONDITIONS FOR ATMOSPHERIC TESTINGG

5.1 The cotton khadi DURRIES shall conforn the constructional and breaking load requirements as

Test specimens may be conditioned and tested in the specified in Table 1. prevailing aumosphere for determining thc conformity of the DURRIES to this standard. However, in all cases

5.2 The cotton khadi DURRIES shall also conform to

of disputes. specimen slhall be conditioned and tested the requirements as specified in Table 2.

in the stan dard atmosphere as specified in the referred

Indian Stundards on test methods.

Table 1 C'onstructional Particulars and Breaking Load Requirements for Cotton Khadi DURRIES

(Clauses 4.I and 5.I) Mass, g/ (see Note)

Breaking lvad 10 x 20 cm

Strip N (xee Note)

Variety Count of yarn (for guidance uniy),

Cotlun count (Merric countj Ends dm Picksdm

Wett Warp Wap Welt

( (5) 2 6tK

1s:2 50

(7 Nn 2 S.S Nn (8-strarnd untwisted

930 70 300 5.5s3 32 70

9.3 Nm'3 (8.5 Nmi (8-strand untwisted) 3300

3s2 S0 I190

(7 3 Na3 5 Nun 2 (4-5trand unlwisted)

850 G10 10s3 s 10

17 Nm) 1O Nn) th-stranl untwisted)

-Tolerance.

percent

1964 S 1969 (Patt l)

Method of 244 IS 3442 IS 963 S

Test

NOTt" An uli0irialue "* niass (g') or breul.ng load hevnd usilive tolerance sltall not be a cause l reIeet

IS 17549 : 2021

Table 2 Other Requirements for Cotton Khadi DRRIES (Chanse 5.2

No. Characteristies Requtrements Method of fest

2) 3 4

Fibre ldentnication tsee Note) 100 percent cotton 1S667

Colour fastnes (for dyed DURRIES Only):

al Light (change in cour) 4 or bettcr 1S/1SO 105-BO2

b) Washing: Test A (1) ISISO 19510

Change in colour 3 or better

2) Staming on adjaccnt fabrie 3 or better

c) Colour fastness to rubbing: IS 1S0 105-X12 4 or beter

21 Wet 4 or better

NOTE- Impurities af less than 0.2 percenm shall be permitted.

5.3 Dimensions 7.2 BIS Certification Marking

Lcngth and width of the DURRIES when detemined in accordance with 1S i1954 shall be as agreed to between the buyer and the scller or as deciared by the seller

subject to the tolerances of 3 ei on length and on provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 2016

widh.

The cotton khadi DURRIES conforming to the

requiremcnts "of this standarcd may be certified as

per the conförmity assessmcnt schemes under the

and the Ruies and Regulations framed thercunder, and

the cotton khadi DURRIES may be marked with the

Standard Mark. 5.4 In order to illustrate or specify the indeterminable characteristics. such as general appearance, fecl and

shade of the cotton khadi DURRIES, a sample has 8 PACKING been agreed upun and sealed, the supply shall be n

confomity with the sample in such respects. Unless otherwise agreed upon by ihe buyer and the

seller, DURRIES shall preferably be packed in bales.or

5.4.1 Thc custody of the sealcd sample shall be a matter cases in conformity with the procedure laid down in

of prior agreement between the buyer and the seller. IS 1347 or IS 293.

6 FREEDOM FROM DEFECTS 9 SAMPLING

6.1 The DURRIES when visually inspected shall be 9.1 Lot

free from the major flaws listed in Annex B.

DC number of permissible flaws ner DLiRIRY

delivered to one buyer against one dispatcn noe Snat

shall be as agreed to between the buyer and the seller.

The quantity of the DURRIES of the sanme coustruction

constitute a lot.

9.2 The conformity of the lot to the various equirenens

specitiedin the standard shall be detemined on the

basis of toests carried out on the sanmples selected from

the lot.

7 MARKING

7.1 The DURRIES shall be suitably marked with the

following information:

a) Name of the material and variety number

b) Length (cm) and width (em):

c) Mass in g/m:

9.3 Unlessotherwise agrerd, the number of DURRIES

selected at random for inspection shal! be in

accordance

with Table 3.

9.3.1 For selection of samples at

random from the lot

procedurc given in 1S 4905 may

be followed

d) Indication of the souree of imanufacture; and

e) Other declarations required as per law in force.

IS 17549:2021 Table 3 Sample Size and Permlssible Nuuber of Non-conforming DURRIES

(Clauses 9.3 and 9.4)

S No Permissihle Number of Non-Cvnforming DURRIES

.ot Nize Sample Size Sub-Sample Size

(3) (4 ()

0

0

ii

S01 to 120 20 201 to 100(K) 32 2

$0

5

SHMNII and above 125 13

9.4 Number of Samples and Criteria for Conformity

It shall be as foliows:

Number of San1ples According to coBumn 3 of Table3

Churacteristics Criteria for Conformity Ends. Picks, fibre, identification, length, width and freedom fron

defects

Number of non-conformingDURRIESshall not exceed the coresponding numbcr given in

column 4 of Table 3

All the DURRIES under test shall wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwn

Colour fastness to light, colour fasness to washing. colour

fastness to rubbng. mass and

hrcaking ioad

According to column 5 of Table 3 meel the requirement

1S 17549: 2021

ANNEX A

(Clause 2) LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS

Title /S No. Title No.

1954 1990 Textiles Tests for colour

fastness Part B 02 Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc

fading lamp test

Delermination of length and width of woven fabrics -Methods (second revision)

105-B02: 2014

1963 2004 Mcthods for detemmination of

105-C10: 2006 Textiles Tests for colour threads per unit length in woven fabrics (second revision) fastness Part ( 10 Colour fastness

to washing with soap or soap and

soda

1964 2001 Textiles Methods for determation of, mass per unit

ength and mass per area of fübries

(second revision) 105-X12:2016 Textilcs Tests for Colour

Fastness: Part X 12 Colour

Rubbing 1969 (Part 1): Textiles Tonsile properti�s of fabrics: Part - Determination of

Fastness

fir'st revision) 2018

Code for seaworthy packaging cotton yarn and cloth

(third revision)

maximum force and elongation at maximum lorce usng the strip

method (fourth revision)

293 1980

3442 1980 Method or dctenination of

Methods for idenification of

textile fibres (frst revision) crimp and count of yarn renioved

from fabrics (first revision

sampling

667 1981

Specification for inland packaging of cotton and yam (first revision)

atd 1347: 1972 4905: 2015 Random randomization procedures

(fhrst revision)

IS 17549: 2021

ANNEX B

Cause 6.1) LIST OF MAJOR FLAWS

B-1 One or more ends missing in the bödy of the

material tdhroughout its lengih, more than tlhree

cnds misSng at a place and runing over 60 ci, or

prominently noticeable double end running throughout the picce

B-10 Noticeable warp or weft flont in the body of the

fabrie.

B-1I Noticeable oil or other stuin in the fabric.

B-12 Oily weft in the fabric.

B-2 Cndressed snarls noticeable over a lengh B-13 Prominently noticeable slub.

eeeeding S pereenn »f the length of the piece. B-14 Conspicuous brokeu pattern.

B-3 Smash definitely rapturing the texture of the Iabric.

B-15 Gout due to forcign matter, usually lint or waste

B-4Hole. cut or tear. wovcn into the fabric.

B-S Reed marks prominently noticeable over a length

exceeding S percent of the piece.

B-16 Pronninent selvedge defect.

B-17 Significant shading or listing fabrics having

B-6 Detective or damaged selvedge noticeable over a a gradual change in tone or depth of shade of fabric

(excluding selvedge or border running parallel to the

length excevding 5 percent of the leugth of the piece.

B-7 Weti erack or twe or more niissíng picks across the ugc

width of the fabric. B-18 Coloured flecks.

B-S Warp or weft bar due to the dillerence in raw

maternal. cout, iwist, lustre, colour, shade or spacing

uf' adjacenn groups of yarns (starting mark)

B-19 Blurred or dark patch.

B-20 Patchy, steaky or uncven dycing.

B-9 More than two adjacent ends running parallel, B-21 Dye bar.

broken ar massing and extending beyond 10 cm. B-22 Fuzzy appearance

IS 17549 2021

ANNEX C

(Foreword)

COMMITrTEE COMPOSITION

Hundloom and Khadi Sectional Committee, TXD O8

Organizalion Representativels)

Weavers Service Centre, Delhi SiiRi VisiFSII NAUTIAl (Chairmnan) SHRI VIKAS KUMAR (Alternate)

All India Handloom Fabries Marketing Cocoperative

Society Ltd, Delhi

SHRI R. UTHAMANI SRi SHRIKANT (Alternate)

Association of Corporations of Apex Societies of

Handlooms, Delhi

SiRI ABDUL REHMAN StiRI ANIL KumaR S1NGH (Alternatc)

Baster Adimjati Sewak Sangh. Baster SHRI SUMIT Das SHRI AMIT Das (Allernate)

Commissioner Handioom & Textiles.

Himachal Pradesh

REPRESENTATIVE (OE COMMISSHONFR & DiRECTOR (OF

NDUSTRIES

CRPF, New Delhi SHRI RANDHIR KsMaR JHA

S:IRI D. N. LAt. (Akermate)

Departmcnt of Handlooms & Textiles, Chennai DR M. KARUNAKARAN SHRI K. KARNAN (Aternate)

Directorale of Handloom & Textiles. Madkya Pradesh DirEcTOR SHRI MAHESH (GULATH (Alternare)

Haryana Khadi Giranmodyog Sangh, Kanal SHRI PAWAN GARG SHRI R. S. YaDAY {Aliernuie)

Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Jodhpur DR J. SiVAGNANAM

Indian Institute of Handloom Technology. Varanasi DR P. THENNARASU

Indo Tibetan Border Police, New Dethi SHRI RAJESIH NAINWAL

SHRI ANAND KuMAR (Alternare)

J&K Handioom Development CCorporation Lid,

Jammu Tawi

MANAGING DiREcTOr

SHRI VINOH» KavL (Alernate)

Jan Sewa Ashram. Aligarh SuRI R. K. SHARMa

SHRI AKHILESH KUMAR AWASTHI (Alternate)

SHRI V. K. NaGaR SHRI RAM NARAYAN (Alternate) Khadi & Village Industries Commission, New Delhi

Khadi Dyers & Printers, Mumbai SHRI D. N. Buari

SHRI V. D. Josuu (Aliernate)

Khadi Ciramodyog Mandal, Rampur

SIRI RAKESH CuaUDHARY

SHRI PRINCE CHaUDHARY

(-1lternite)

Kshetriya Khadi Gramodyog Samiti, Dausa

Metpalli Khadi Gramodyog Pratisthan, Telangana

SHRI R.K. SiNGH

SIRI G. MADHAV

SHRI M. II. BasaVRa

SHRI N. SEN�IUL KuinMAR

(AHernute)

Ministry of Defence (DGQA), New Delhi

National Handloomn IDevelupment Corporation Ltd,

Greater Noida

DR SAKTHIVEI

PrR'MAL SAM

SiI JTENDRA ToLAMB.YA

(4lternate)

Northern India 'lextile Research Association, DR M. S. P'aRMAR

Ghaziabad

IS 17549: 2021

Orgamzalion Representative(s)

Northem Railways. New Dellhi SHRI SUD IANSIU KUMAR GPTA

Ofice of Development Commissioner (liandlooms). New Delhi

SHRI SIoDHARTH SING SHRI VINAY KuMA« (Aliernate)

Rastriya Khad1 (Gramodyoy F'ederution. Muradabacd SHRI ANIL KuMAR S1NGH

SiIRI KULDeEr SiNGH (Alternare)

SHRI SUNIL TYaGH Sushil Guamodyog Sanstha. (Gihaziabad

SHRI M. L. PaAK SuRI AHIuSHEK DIxrT (Alternate)

Swastik Gramodyog Samiti. Delht

SHRI KARTIKAY DHANDA

SHRIMAT S1uri CHaUHAN (Alternute) Tealiles Comnite. New Delhi

The Handieratis & Handloom Exports Corporation of SHR1 NiRMAL S1NHA

ndia Ltd. Noida SHRIA. V. S1NGH (4lternate)

Dr M. SuNDAR The Handloom Export Promotion Council, Chennai

The Tam Nadu Handloom Weavers' Coopcrative SoCiety Ltd, Chennai

SiR T. N. VENKATESH

SHRI K. KATHIRESAN (Alternate)

SHRI B. B. PaUL n personal capacty (/48. I1 Floor: Sector 8.

Faridabud. Huryvant i21 006) SHRIA. K. BEra, ScIENTIST °F" AND HEAD (TXD)

[ REPRESENTINC; DIRECTOR General ( Ex-officio)] BIS Dircctorate Cieneral

Member Secretury SHRIJ. K. Gurma

ScENTIST E' (TXD), BIS

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This Iniian Standard has becn developed from Doc No.: TXD 08 (16946).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of lIssue

Text Affected

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