MARKER PLANNING,SPREADING PROCESS & EQUIPMENTS

DEEPIKA AGARWAL, GAYATHRI V.S, GREESHMA V , SANTHI BIJU

OUTLINE

1. WHAT IS MARKER PLANNING?

2. THE REQUIREMENT OF MARKER PLANNING

3. SECTIONAL MARKER & STEPPED LAY

4. MARKER MODES

5. MARKER EFFICIENCY

6. SPREADING

7. SPREADING MODE

8. SPREADING SURFACES

9. TYPES OF SPREADING MACHINE

WHAT IS MARKER PLANNING?

• A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be

cut from a single spread.

• Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified

style, fabric, and distribution of sizes.

• The process of arranging pattern pieces in the most efficient manner requires skill, time and

concentration.

• Markers may be made by manually tracing master patterns onto the fabric or paper or by manipulating

and plotting computerized pattern images.

MARKER PLANNING

MARKER PLANNING

• It is the placement of pattern pieces to meet

technical requirements and needs of material

economy

• Any reduction in the amount of the cloth used per

garment leads to increased profit

PLOTTING

• is the process of drawing or printing pattern

pieces or markers on paper so they can be

reviewed or cut.

THE REQUIREMENT OF MARKER PLANNING

Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment

• Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric (Pocketing Fabric)• Symmetry and asymmetry • The design characteristic of the finished garment (mitering, print placement, etc.)

• The requirements of cutting quality

• The requirements of production planning

MANUAL MARKER

• Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

• Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.

• Time consuming.

• Subject to errors (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line

definition, omission of pcs.)

• Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

COMPUTERISED MARKER

• Accurate and Shortest response time.

• Direct or digitized.

• Manipulate images to determine best utilization.

• No overlapping/no omissions

• Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are

entered into the computer., can be

printed/recalled/modified.

• Criteria can be set by technician & can be used to determine fabric requirement.

The making of industrial patterns begins with an existing block pattern that most closely resembles the designer's vision.

The pattern is first checked for accuracy, then it is cut out of sample fabrics and the resulting garment is fit tested. 

Once the pattern meets the designer's approval, the pattern is graded for sizes, usually by computer with an apparel industry specific CAD program.

Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the accuracy of each size and the direct comparison in laying seam lines is done.

After these steps have been followed and any errors corrected, the pattern is approved for production. 

When the manufacturing company is ready to manufacture the style, all of the sizes of each given pattern piece are arranged into a marker, usually by computer. The marker is then laid on top of the layers of fabric and cut.

TYPES OF MARKERS

Tubular Fabric ( Closed Marker)

• symmetric garment/pattern part

• the pattern parts are folded in half in their length

• half-patterns are placed where the pattern fold is

superimposed over the fabric’s folded edge

• when this pattern is cut, the result is a full body part

Open Marker - Made with full pattern pieces

Closed Marker - Marker made with half garment patterns for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular

knit)

MARKER MODES

Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric

1. Nap either way (N/E/W)

2. Nap one way (N/O/W)

3. Nap up and down (N/U/D)

The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional.

• N/E/W –with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line

• N/O/W – all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction, e.g. horse print

• N/U/D – all pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed in opposite direction. eg. corduroy

SECTIONAL MARKER & STEPPED LAY

Markers are of two types:

Blocks or Sections

• Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes

Continuous

• markers contain all the pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting

SPLICE MARKS

• points in marker where fabric can be cut and the next

piece overlapped to maintain a continuous spread

• Used in continuous marker of maybe 1 inch or more

• Splices are needed when flaws are removed, a roll change is

made, or a short length of fabric is used

• Splice marks are inherent when markers are planned in blocks

• Splice marks are used to avoid excessive fabric waste and

incomplete pieces

A STEPPED SPREAD

• plies of varied length, spread at different heights

• used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number of garments

• to be cut from each section of the marker

• Sections may be joined to form multi-size marker

• Pattern parts of one size in close proximity

• Advantageous when there is end-to-end shade variations

SECTIONED OR BLOCKED MARKER

CONTINUOUS MARKER

• Contain all pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting

• Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of the pieces rather than by

garment size

• Better utilization because more flexibility in grouping and manoeuvring large pieces

and small pieces

MARKER EFFICIENCY

Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%

Total area of the marker plan

• It is determined for fabric utilization• Minimum waste

FACTORS AFFECTING MARKER EFFICIENCY

Fabric characteristics

Shape of Pattern pieces

Grain requirements

FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS

Lengthwise directionality

Crosswise symmetry

Need for matching the fabric design.

Length of design repeat.

Fabric width.

SHAPES OF PATTERN PIECES

Markers contain large and small pcs. Large pcs – less flexibility.

Patterns are sometimes modified to increase

efficiency

Split pattern pieces

and create a

seam

Reduce seam

allowances and/or

hem width

Adjust and

modify grain-line

DUPLICATIONS OF MARKER

CARBON DUPLICATING

• small no. of copies only are made (6–8)

SPIRIT DUPLICATING OR HECTOGRAPH CARBON SYSTEM

• uses alcohol and it is a messy process many copies can be produced

DIAZO PHOTOGRAPHIC METHOD

• the master marker and light sensitive paper passes under high intensity ultra violet light and the light sensitive paper is developed using ammonia

MARKER QUALITY

• Complete data

• Precise lines

• Overlaps

• Rounded corners

• Off grain

• Omissions

SPREADING IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

INTRODUCTION

SPREADING• Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths

of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for cutting process.

• Number of layers of fabric dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness

PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR SPREADING

Grading (manual, miniaturization using a pantograph/ computerized).

Pattern making

Making a lay plan ( half garment lay, whole garment lay, single size lay, multiple size lay: sectional lay, interlocking lay, mixed multi size lay).

• Spreading table has to be covered with brown paper before spreading fabric on table.

SPREADING MODE

Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting

DIRECTION OF THE FABRIC:

• it may be positioned in two ways face-to-face

• (F/F) or with all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W)

•Direction of the Fabric Nap:

• it may be positioned nap-one-way (N/O/W) or nap-up-down

F/O/W N/O/W

F/FN/O/W

F/FN/U/D

F/O/WN/U/D

MEASURES TO MAINTAIN SPREADING Q.

1. Shade sorting of cloth pieces

2. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability

3. Alignment of plies

4. Correct ply tension (*recuts)

5. Elimination of fabric faults

6. Elimination of static electricity

7. Flatness of spread

8. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

SETUP FOR SPREADING

1. Verifying cutting orders

2. Positioning materials

3. Preparing cutting tables

4. Preparing machines

5. Loading machine

6. Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of

7. the time required for the entire spreading operation

SPREADING SURFACES

• Spreading and cutting can be done at the same surface –should be flat & smooth.

• Smoothness is required to lower friction, can be done using laminated top, tempered hardboard, or compressed air floatation

• Determined by the fabric type, spreading equipment, cutting method and firm’s quality standards.

• Available in standard widths corresponding to fabric width & needs to be about 10 inches wider than the fabric.

• Table tracks or rails are placed to synchronize movement of spreading machine with fabric unrolling.

SPREADING TABLE – TYPES

• Table With Laminated Top

• Gerber Spreading Table

• Pin table

• Vacuum table

• Air flotation table

• Conveyor table

Must Be Smooth, level and even.

About 10 inches wider than the fabric.

Should have strong support.

Available with or without air flotation.

Specially designed sturdy steel construction capable of withstanding the load of a fully equipped spreader totaling a weight of up to 800kg.

It has rows of pin located below the surface to hold fabric in precise location.

Used for accurate matching of repeating pattern.

It is used to compress lay and prevent shifting or movement during cutting.

Spread is covered with plastic film to form a seal over the lay.

It reduces friction and allow easy movement of a lay onto an adjacent cutting area.

Reduces stress on the fabric or the operators.

It is made in “PVC” band with textile internal structure .This spreading table speed can be synchronized to the cutter and a single ply feeder.

GERBER SPREADING TABLE

• Multi Adjustable height from 75cm to 95cm.

• Leveling of table is done easily and quickly by adjusting the leveling screw in table tags.

• Available in different width sizes.

PIN TABLE – ADVANTAGE

• Avoiding of relaying operations.

• Reducing the fabric consumption

• Improving the quality

• Spreading and matching in one step.

Vacuum Table

VACCUUM TABLE

• It Compress the lay by 80%.

• 3 to 4 times the productivity rate is possible.

• Especially with the fabrics like thick flannel and thick lining for winter apparel.

CONVEYOR TABLE

• It is conveyorized surface which carry the fabric to the cutting machine in order to save time.

• It may be used with computerized cutting systems, large die pressers and laser cutters.

AIR FLOTATION TABLE

SPREADING BY HAND

• Fabric is drawn from package (if its a roll it can be mounted on a fame and carried along the table where the end is secured by weights and clamps).

• Fabrics commonly spread by hand are checks, crosswise stripes other regularly repeating patterns, repeat designs are placed at the interval of a garment length.

• Stacking up is done and then the lay is spiked onto sharp spikes set vertically n the spreading table.

• Cost of hand spreading is partly offset by the ability to cut fabric in bulk.

SPREADING MACHINES

• Fundamental purpose of spreading machine is to superimpose layers of fabric in a smooth, tension-free manner for accurate and efficient cutting.

• Automatic spreading machine can spread up to 100-150 yards per minute.

• Spreading speed can only be utilized on long spreads with few defects.

• It increases productivity, decreases variability, and is cost-efficient.

TYPES OF SPREADING MACHINE

• Manual spreading machine

• Semi-automatic spreading machine

• Automatic spreading machine

• Spreading machine For tubular knitted fabric

MANUAL SPREADING MACHINE

• Fabric is pulled from roll by hand

• Edge alignment is done by human operator

• Mechanical devices may be used to facilitate unrolling.

• Suitable for short lays and frequent fabric and color changes.

• Used for small businesses

SEMI-AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINE

• Cloth unwound and spread semi-automatically using manually driven carriage.

• Edge alignment is taken care by built in mechanisms.

• Suitable for long and broad lays.

• Very efficient and suitable for small businesses.

AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINE

• Moving carriage is fully automated.

• Equipped with photo cells(alignment of selvedges), fabric loading and threading devices, cutting devices at the end of the lay, a platform(for operator to sit or stand)

• More efficient for large scale enterprises.

SPREADING MACHINE FOR TUBULAR KNITTED FABRIC

It is specially designed to lay up tubular knitted fabric

A specially designed former is placed inside the fabric and then threaded through two nip rollers that feed the fabric on to the spreading table.

The former ensures that control is maintained over the fabric tube and that no differential movement takes place.

LAY STORAGE

The material flow is interrupted between spreading and

cutting process because of

• Small Orders

• Short but different ply heights

• Quickly changing fashion trends

• Late ordering

The VEITH LAY STORAGE SYSYEM is a micro processor controlled

interim store for completed lay which are waiting to be cut.

Improved Material Flow

Improved workload for spreading machines and cutters.

Space Saving

Simple method to increase production capacity.

BENEFITS

FABRIC CONTROL DEVICES

Mechanism that control fabric as it is carried up and down the table and unrolled by the spreading machine. It includes:

• Tensioning mechanisms

• Positioning devices

• Width indicators.

• End treatment systems

TENSIONING

• Synchronizes the rate of spreading with the rate fabric is unrolled.

• Covered roller- driven and timed to the movement of the machine.

• Momentum of large roll is stopped when machine slows down or stops.

• Different roll covers can be used for better gripping and for different types of

fabric and weights.

POSITIONING DEVICES

• Sensors monitor position and control fabric placement during spreading.

• Electronic edge sensor monitor selvages as fabric is spread.

• Any deviation is corrected by a motor that shifts the roll to correct position.

• One-eighth inch tolerance is there with these devices.

• Sound an alarm whenever the fabric becomes narrower than the established width.

• It is necessary to determine whether the fabric will fit the marker or has to be removed as a defect.

WIDTH INDICATORS

END TREATMENT DEVICES

• Depend on spreading mode: F/F or FOW

• F/F spread utilizes an end catcher and a folding blade

• They are mounted on opposite ends of the fabric to catch and hold the fabric as the blade shapes and creases the fold.

• An overfeed device may be built that automatically feeds extra material whenever a fold is to be made.

• FOW spread has a knife box and an end catcher.

END TREATMENT DEVICES(CONT…)• Knife box contains a cutting unit that operates in a track and cuts across the fabric width

when engaged.

• Each ply must be cut at the end of the marker.

• End catcher simply holds the fabric end in place for cutting.

NEEDLE PLATES

• NEEDLE PLATES is a very useful utility, which helps to fix.

• Its needle keep the whole lay from distortion of its single ply.

• This is especially imp. For the transport of the lay and for the cutting operation itself.

CLAMPS

• Clamp used to secure material in place while cutting and

to prevent backing of the material towards the roll after

cutting.

• The clamp is available on all semi-automatic and fully-

automatic L and M series end cutters.

• It is triggered automatically during the cutting process

and releases manually when triggered by the operator.

WEIGHTS

• Weights will be used to hold the fabric tightly which helps to keep the lay without moving.

• Also helps to avoid folds while

spreading.

PAPER

• Paper on spreading machine before spreading will avoid stain ,oil & dirt marks which can acquire from spreading.

• Also paper helps to keep the lay in a smooth manner.

Bibliography• CLOTHING from fabric to fashion.

• Technology Of Clothing Manufacture : By Carr and Latham.