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FROM YOUR VETERINARIAN
How old is my pet in human years?
SOURCE: TONY BUFFINGTON, DVM, PHD © THE OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY. USED WITH PERMISSION. GETTYIMAGES
0-20 21-50 51-120 >120
Dog – Adult size in pounds
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PET YEARSHUMAN YEARS
Cat
Adult
Senior
Geriatric
Comparison of cat, dog & human ages
From Your Veterinarian
Helping pets who have lost their best buddy
Sometimes when highly attached pets are sepa-rated, we see what is called a “distress reaction.”
Signs of a pet’s distress can sometimes look like hu-man grief, often characterized by changes in sleeping and eating habits, disinterest in usual activities, and a reluctance to be alone or away from human family members. Some pets will “search” for their buddy, wandering around the house. And sometimes, pet parents and veterinarians will allow surviving pets to be present during euthanasia or to see and sniff their buddy’s body after death. While some who’ve followed this plan believe it helps, others report no reactions at all from their surviving pets.
What you can doSo what can you do if your pet seems to be grieving? Your veterinarian will be able to recommend the best course of action, but consider the following:• Keep routines as consistent as possible.• Keep your pet’s diet and mealtimes the same.
If your pet hasn’t been interested in eating for several days following the death of his or her buddy, it’s tempting to offer table scraps and treats. However, if pets learn that not eating results in treats, they may become less likely to eat their regular meals!• Although it’s human nature to want to comfort your pets, try to spend time with them when they are behaving in desirable ways.
If pets receive more attention from you when they are depressed and inactive, these behaviors may become a way for them to get more attention from you. You can create opportunities to provide positive reinforcement by keeping your surviving pets active. Exercising together may help you feel a bit better while you’re grieving, too.• Allow your surviving pets to work out their own relationships.
When several animals live together, they often form very specific relationships. When a member of the
group dies, the group can become temporarily unsta-ble. This might result in conflicts involving growling, hissing, barking and even mild attacks. If this happens in your household, talk to your veterinarian about what you can do.
Grief is not always well understood—in pets or in people. Keep close attention to your surviving pet for signs of distress, and don’t feel pressure to “re-place” the pet you’ve lost. You can always reach out to your veterinary healthcare team to discuss your concerns. For now, take a deep breath, keep your furry friend close and remember the good times with their best buddy.
Losing a housemate can be hard on the entire family—including your other pets. Here’s what you can do to help.
Getty ImaGeS/eLIza Rowe/eyeem
From Your Veterinarian
How to get your dog in shape
Why a healthy weight is important for your dogIf a dog is just five pounds over its ideal weight, it’s at risk for developing some serious medical conditions. When a dog is overweight or obese, it’s not a question of if it will develop a related illness, but rather how many and how soon.
Veterinarians expect overweight dogs to live shorter lives than their fitter counterparts. Heavy dogs tend to be less energetic and playful. It’s common to think dogs that lie around are just lazy, making it easy to overlook the lethargy that results from being over-weight or obese. If your dog doesn’t run and jump, it might be overweight. But don’t worry, your veterinary team can help your pooch get in shape!
Start with caloriesA weight-loss formula seems simple: fewer calories, in plus more calories, out equals weight loss. Unfortu-nately, it’s not that simple. First, never put your dog on a diet until it’s been examined by your veterinarian. A medical condition may be causing your dog’s excess weight. The veterinarian will rule out these diseases before putting your dog on a diet.
Once the veterinarian prescribes a diet, the next step is calculating the calories your dog needs. First, the veterinarian will calculate your dog’s ideal weight. Your veterinarian will use your dog’s initial target or ideal weight to figure out how many calories your dog should eat each day. To figure out how many calories are in your pet’s food, check the label. If it doesn’t tell you what you need to know, ask your veterinarian.
The art of changing foodsYou’ll most likely need to offer your dog a diet food if its overweight. When you’re introducing a new food, allow several days for the transition. We recommend
gradually adding the new diet over a one- to two-week period. Start by substituting one-quarter of your dog’s diet with the new food for two or three days. Then give your dog a diet that’s half old food, half new for the next two to four days. Then increase to feeding three-quarters new food for the final three to five days before completely switching to the new diet. To make dry food more appetizing for your dog, try warming the food, adding ketchup or oregano, or even adding a splash of an omega-3 fatty acid supplement or salmon juice on top of the food.
Getty ImaGes/Ryan mcVay
Weight loss is tough for anyone—two- or four-legged. But losing weight and getting in shape not only adds years to your pet’s life, it can also make those extra years more enjoyable.
From Your Veterinarian
How can I tell if my pet is overweight?Try these simple at-home tests to see if your beloved pet should see the veterinarian for weight control.
If you’re unsure what your pet’s optimum weight should
be, perform this simple test at home: Place your hands on your pet’s rib cage with your thumb on the back.
> If you feel your pet’s ribs easily, your pet is probably at a normal weight.
> If you can feel some fat between the skin and ribs or if the ribs are difficult to detect, your pet is probably considered overweight.
> If you can’t feel the ribs at all, your pet may likely be obese. In some pets, particularly cats, a large abdoman that hangs down toward the ground may indicate obesity. It’s important to have this judgement confirmed by your veterinarian; he or she can rule out other diseases that can sometimes look like obesity but instead are heart, kidney or glandular disease.
Your pet might be overweight if ...- You have difficulty feeling its ribs- It has a sagging stomach, and you can grab a handful of fat- It has a broad, flat back and no visible waist
Your pet is a probably a healthy weight if ...- You can easily feel its ribs- It has a tucked abdomen and no sagging stomach- You can see its waist from above
From Your Veterinarian
GETTYIMAGES/WATchA SourcE: MIkkEl BEckEr, cPDT
Scratch that! use these tips to pick an appropriate scratching post to satisfy your cat’s itch to scratch.
Pick the right post. Think about the places your cat scratches now. What’s her preferred material? Scout out posts and coverings that mimic her favorite scratching surfaces, from sisal to cardboard to carpet-covered posts or even wood or leather.
How high? Does your cat stretch high and far above his head? He might like higher posts. Just be sure it’s sturdy so it won’t wibble, wobble or fall while you’re cat’s soothing his scratching urge.
Location matters. Just like real estate, where you place your scratching board counts. Your kitty craves your attention, so it’s best to post her post in highly trafficked areas, where the family spends time together. This way her kitty “furniture” is on the scene, close to you—the one she loves best!
Structure matters. Does your kitty crave vertical scratching surfaces or horizontal ones? Some cats will enjoy a mix of both.
From Your Veterinarian
If you’ve been infestedI f you started using flea medications after you dis-
covered a flea infestation, you’ll need to treat your house too. Why? Fleas can live for several months in
your house and yard, and flea eggs can survive in your carpet, cushions, and drapes for years.
And your pet isn’t the only one at risk: People can get irritating flea bites too. Ridding your home of these pests takes time and a concerted approach.
Here’s what to do:To get rid of housebound fleas, use professional flea foggers in each room and sprays for hard-to-reach spots. Clean the flea eggs out of your house by vacuuming several times a week, taping the vacuum bags shut, and throwing them away each time. Also clean your dog’s favorite hangout spots and wash her bedding regularly.
If your dog spends time outdoors in a kennel, be sure to wash the bedding or discard old hay if you use it. Spray doghouses and kennels with an indoor flea spray, and let all treated areas dry before you let your pet outside.
If your flea problem is recurring, you may need to treat your yard as well. Use professional, concentrated yard sprays for the outdoor fight. You can buy many that attach easily to the end of a garden hose for application.
It’s especially important to spray moist and shaded areas of your yard. But be sure not to use any environ-mental treatments directly on your pet.
Ridding your pet and her environment of these hardy pests is a tough job, but you’ll rest easier know-ing that your dog doesn’t have to endure the madden-ing itching and scratching or the insidious diseases these parasites can inflict.
First: Don’t panic. Follow these tips and talk to your veterinarian about how to handle a dreaded flea infestation.
Getty ImaGes/Charles mann
From Your Veterinarian
Getty ImaGes/alecsoms
What you need to know about fleasKnow thy enemy—and make sure your pet, your family and your home are kept flea-free.
Utter the “F” word (fleas, that is) and you’ll likely inspire looks of horror. Fleas are every
pet owner’s worst nightmare. Why? Because these bloodsucking bugs can wreak havoc on your be-loved pet and home.
It’s all about the life cycleOne adult female flea lays up to 50 eggs a day, which hatch and reproduce exponentially in a short time. Within the next two weeks, the eggs hatch into larvae, very small caterpillar-like creatures. The immature flea can remain in this stage for several days to a few weeks.
The larvae then spin a cocoon and enter the pupae stage. Adults usually emerge from their cozy covering within 14 days but can survive in the cocoon for several months until vibration, pressure, heat, noise, or carbon dioxide jolts them from their deep sleep.
Once they emerge from the cocoon, adult fleas must find a warm-blooded host within a few days—or they’ll die. Once a flea finds your pet, it will live out its life happily feeding off your four-legged friend. In no time, these hungry parasites can become a persistent, itchy, and dangerous problem.
Fleas usually are more annoying than lethal, but they can spread tapeworms to your pet and other family members. Very small or young pets can develop ane-mia, a potentially life-threatening condition, because of blood loss from flea infestation. Call your veterinarian immediately if you find fleas on a puppy or kitten less than 12 weeks old or if your adult pet suddenly acts lethargic.
Intermittent flea exposure increases your pet’s risk for developing an allergic reaction called flea allergy dermatitis (FAD). Studies show that about 80 percent of allergic dogs also develop FAD.
Risk factors and detectionAll pets are at risk for a flea infestation. Pets who spend time outdoors are particularly susceptible. Why? Many adult fleas live outside and on wildlife hosts until they find a happy home on your pet. Indoor dogs also are at risk because they can pick up fleas when they go outside to exercise or relieve themselves.
If you suspect your pet has fleas, it’s important to act right away. Call your veterinarian if your pet ex-hibits any of the signs detailed in the chart, left.
Signs of flea infestation include: • flea feces, or pepper-like specks, in your pet’s coat or
on his bedding
• flea eggs, or light-colored specks, in your pet’s coat or on his bedding
• itchy skin (scratching)
• biting at his fur or legs
• patchy hair loss, especially near the tail or neck
• lethargy (especially in severe cases)
• tiny, dark brown insects scurrying around on your pet.
FROM YOUR VETERINARIAN
5 signs of dental pain in petsYour pets can’t tell you when they’re suffering from a toothache or other types of pain. If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian to schedule an exam.
Don’t let your pets suffer in silence. They don’t just have a
toothache, they have a whole mouth full of toothaches. Dai-
ly dental hygiene is free. All you need is a toothbrush and a
couple of minutes to help prevent periodontal disease.
Dogs, cats and other companion animals, such as rabbits,
rarely show signs of dental pain. This is a survival mecha-
nism, an instinctual behavior that our domesticated animals
have in common with their wild ancestors.
1. No signs at all.
The odor is a byproduct of the bacterial metabolic
process. In pets with periodontal disease, there is
more bacteria in the mouth, and so the odor increases.
“Doggy breath” or “tuna breath” is not normal and
needs to be evaluated.
2. Bad breath.
Chewing on one side of the mouth, dropping food, run-
ning away from the food dish, crying when yawning,
hiding, not grooming themselves and acting “grumpy” are
all signs of dental pain. You know your pet better than
anyone, so look for abnormal behaviors.
3. Altered behavior.
Bleeding from the mouth is usually due to periodontal
disease, but it could also be evidence of fractured teeth,
lacerations or ulcers on the tongue or gum tissue or the
presence of an oral mass. Look for thick, ropey saliva,
spots of blood found on toys or beds or drops of blood in
the water or food dish. If the periodontal disease is severe
enough, you may notice bleeding from the nose or bloody
discharge when your pet sneezes.
4. Bleeding.
Once our veterinary team addresses your pet’s oral issues,
your pooch may show he’s feeling better by acting like a
puppy again or your kitty might seek extra attention.
5. Return to normal.
SOURCE: PAT MARCH, RVT, VTS (DENTISTRY)
Nutrition FactsServing SizeAmount Per Serving
Calories% Daily Values*
Meat. Muscle tissue that may or may not include fat and portions of the skin, sinew, nerve and blood vessels.
Meat byproducts. Most of the parts of the animal other than the muscle tissue, including familiar parts such as livers, kidneys and tripe, but also udders and lungs.
Poultry. The parts of the bird you would find if you purchased a whole chicken or turkey at the grocery store. This likely includes backs and necks and may include bone, which can serve as a source of calcium.
Poultry byproducts. This includes most of the parts that are not included in a dressed bird such as the heart, gizzard and liver, but also other internal organs, heads and feet.
Meat meal. This is a product made from mammal tissues that have been subject to cooking to destroy any harmful bacteria and to remove most of the water and fat, leaving primarily protein and minerals. Meal products are ground to form uniform sized particles.
Meat and Bone Meal. Similar to meat meal, but contains added bone.
Animal Byproduct Meal. Similar to meat meal and meat and bone meal, but may include additional byproducts.
Poultry Byproduct Meal. Essentially the same as “poultry byproducts,” but in rendered form.
Poultry Meal. Rendered part of the whole carcass and skin with or without accompanying bone.
Forget the packaging, read the ingredient list
When you read a pet food ingredient list there may be unfamiliar terms that may leave you scratching your head. Here’s your cheat sheet to understand ingredient list linguistics.
From Your Veterinarian
Nutrition FactsServing SizeAmount Per Serving
Calories% Daily Values*
Vitamins and minerals. Many names are recognizable. But others, like the following, may not be: Cholecalciferol (supplies vitamin D from animal sources),Ergocalciferol (supplies vitamin D from plant sources), Riboflavin supplement (a source of vitamin B2), Alpha-Tocopherol acetate (supplies vitamin E), Thiamine mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), Pyridoxine hydrochloride (source of vitamin B6).
Chemical preservatives. Commonly used ingredients include ascorbic acid, benzoic acid, butylated hydroxyanisol (BHA), butylated hydroxyltoluene (BHT), calcium ascorbate, citric acid, ethoxyquin, potassium sorbate, sodium bisulfate and mixed tocopherols.
Conditioning agents, thickeners, emulsifiers, sequestrants, flavors and seasonings. Commonly used ingredients include carrageenan, propylene glycol (prohibited from use in cat food), sodium hexametaphosphate (to reduce dental tartar in dogs and cats), agar-agar and guar gum.
When in doubt, ask✔Call your veterinarianTalk to your veterinary team about your nutrition questions and how to appropriately transition your pet to a new food. If you think your pet is showing signs of illness related to his or her pet food, call your veterinarian.
✔Call the manuFaCturerThe “manufactured by” label statement identifies the party responsible for the quality and safety of the product, along with contact information. Don’t hesitate to contact the company with questions or complaints about a product.
DEfInITIonS SouRCED fRoM THE ASSoCIATIon of AMERICAn fEED ConTRol offICIAlS (AAfCo)
From Your Veterinarian
FROM YOUR VETERINARIAN
With so many pet food options, choosing the right diet can be tricky. As your veterinary team, we can help you select the best foods based on our experience with many pets, ignoring the blizzard of marketing ploys designed to appeal to your emotional needs rather than your pets’ nutritional needs.
3 pet food label myths
Fact: Your veterinarian chooses your pet’s food based on your pet’s physical exam, lifestyle, medical condition and other factors related to your pet’s health. So before you reach for the food you heard about on a commercial, call your veterinary team first for a recommendation tailored to your pet.
Source: Tony Buffington, DVM, MS, PhD, Diplomate ACVN GETTYIMAGES/RETALES BOTIJERO
Myth 2
Myth 1 Foods labeled premium are always better for your pet.
The best food for your pet is one that lists real meat as the first ingredient.
Myth 3 The order of the ingredients is the most important factor in selecting your pet’s diet.
Truth: Some premium food companies may call out other manufacturers for using ingredients like corn or meat meals, knowing full well that pets do not need ingredients; they need the nutrients that are contained in ingredi-ents. The nutrients contained in those ingredients are more important than the ingredients themselves. Manu-facturers, nutritionists and pet owners simply can’t predict a food’s performance based on its ingredient list. There are too many unknowns: the amount of the ingredient present in the food, the quality of the ingredient or the exact identity and nutrient composition of the ingredient.
Truth: Some manufacturers also make unsubstantiated claims about ingredients and manipulate their own ingredient lists. For example, some dry food manufacturers tout real chicken, fish or beef as their first ingredient because the food contains more of this ingredient by weight than any other ingredient. What they don’t say is that “real meat” is mostly water weight, which is removed when the food is made, moving it way down the in-gredient list. They also neglect to mention that the technical term for “real meat” is mechanically deboned meat, also known as “white slime!”
Truth: Another trick some manufacturers play is called ingredient splitting, where they will list different carbo-hydrates separately—corn, rice, barley, wheat or oatmeal, for example—or list out different forms of the same carbohydrate, such as ground wheat and wheat flour, so these individual carbs appear lower in the ingredient list. Doing so makes it appear as if carbohydrates are not the first ingredient.
From Your Veterinarian
Many of us may have suffered a skin issue at some
point in our lives—bug bites, poison ivy, rashes
or other types of irritation—and we all know it’s
no picnic. In fact, sometimes irritated skin symptoms can
be so severe that it can feel like you’re going crazy. And so
it should be no surprise to us that itchy, irritated skin in our
pets can drive them to endless scratching, biting and licking
to try to find relief.
Skin issues in your pet can be extremely difficult for your
veterinary team to diagnose—not to mention, extremely
frustrating for you and painful for your pet. However, there
are ways you can be prepared for your pet’s dermatologic
examination to help speed along the diagnostic process.
getty IMAgeS / Source: dr. Andrew rollo
your poor pup has itchy, irritated skin and you’re feeling helpless. not to worry! you can help your veterinarian arrive at a diagnosis by remembering these simple tips.
Help your pet have a better dermatology examination
History is everythingIf you suspect a problem with your pet’s skin or are al-
ready scheduled for a dermatology exam, it’s very helpful
for you to come prepared with a good history. But what
does that mean?
A history of symptoms: where on your pet does the
most scratching/licking/biting occur? Have you noticed
hair loss, increased redness, scaliness, spots or bumps,
crusty or scabby patches, or open sores? Are your pet’s
eyes irritated? Have you seen fleas on your pet? Have
you noticed other bodily changes, like weight loss/gain,
personality, appetite, or urinary changes?
A travel history: Has your pet been out of the state in
the past two years? Has his environment changed in the
past six months? If so, there may be infectious diseases
for the veterinarian to consider that are not present
where you live.
A diet history: Have you changed your pet’s regular food
in the last 12 months? Bring a list of the brand names
and types of food your pet has been eating. what types of
snacks or treats does he eat on a regular basis? Bring a list
of those, too.
A drug history: think about the types of parasite preven-
tion you use on your pet. what type of flea prevention do
you use, and has it changed or stayed consistent over
the last year? Make sure to have the specific name of the
product—some are more effective at dialling up skin condi-
tions than others. Has your pet been given any antibiotics,
steroid or cortisone pills or shots, or allergy medicine?
A seasonal history: does your pet’s itchy, irritated skin
occur only in the spring, or are you seeing these symp-
toms at other times of the year?
