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MOMENTUM OF PLACE, PEOPLE IN MOTION:
CITY IN
PORTRAITSB e i r u t C i t y C e n t e r
CIT
Y I
N P
OR
TR
AIT
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Cen
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2011
2011
S O L I D E R E A N N U A L R E P O R T
“After all anybody is as their land and air is. Anybody is as the sky is low orhigh, the air heavy or clear, anybody is as there is wind or no wind there. It isthat which makes them and the arts they make and the work they do and theway they eat and the way they drink and the way they learn and everything.”
- Gertrude Stein -
People reveal as much about a city as architecture andlandscape. They are its soul and its reason for being, and thecity reflects their culture, traditions, and aspirations.
Acclaimed photographer Miguel Ángel Sánchez journeyedto Lebanon in April 2012 and photographed more than sixtypeople who live and work in Beirut city center. Renownedfor using the 17th century Old Masters’ techniques ofdramatic light and shadow within intimate studio settings,Sánchez’s photographs become works of art that delve deepinto the subjects and capture their essence. The resultingimages are a constellation of identities that refract the city.
A portrait of the city through its people.
Foreword
***
City in Portraits
04
The GreengrocerMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The garden beds in his hometown grew sunflowers,
cucumbers, squash, tomatoes, and eggplants. He was raised
in Qasr Nabaa, an old village perched atop a hill overlooking
the Bekaa Valley.
Then came the day when Ali had to leave his village to reap
the fruits of all the years spent learning about earth and
harvesting. It was a seasonal start when he found the job that
garnered his aspirations. Today, Ali tends to the fruits of the
earth in the city. Fresh from the field and bursting with flavor,
the crops of the growing seasons are Ali’s everyday celebration,
an invitation to taste the harvest in full swing.
The Greengrocer
***
ALI DIRANI
Fruit and Vegetable CounterTSC Signature – Beirut Souks
City in Portraits
06
The Scarf WeaverMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Scarf Weaver
If the city were one of her scarves, it would be oddly beautiful,
never harmonious, endearingly eccentric, and seductive.
Left with empty spaces and fragmented holes, it would have
a permanently unfinished look.
The colors…
Soft, like the locals’ timid smile and tone of voice;
Blue, fading away into the sky under the sea;
Pallid yellow for the winter sun peeking through the sky’s
Plush robe of gray; and green for the memory of the star
Jasmine and topiaries dripping from the balconies.
***
DINA KHALIFE
Accessory and Textile DesignerSTARCH – Saifi
City in Portraits
08
Les Petits ParisiensMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
Les Petits Parisiens
It was his first visit to Beirut in 20 years, a visit that made him
fall in love with the city and find his missing piece in Maya.
Skilled at creating and acting upon chance opportunities, Fadi
adopted a relaxed attitude to a major life decision: to leave all
the years spent in Paris behind and settle with the family in
his country of origin.
Establishing a small family business in a quiet and safe
environment was the goal. That’s when the concept of Les
Petits Parisiens took root, and Saifi Village was the ground
where these roots grew stronger and deeper.
***
MAYA AND FADI MROUEH WITH YASMINE, LILA, AND JAD
OwnersLes Petits Parisiens – Saifi
City in Portraits
10
The Warden Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Warden
Abou Saddam embraces his beliefs about upholding rules and
regulations. He follows the same regimented and ordered way of
doing things – rising early, making the rounds, and supervising
work. Under his command, nothing is left out of place.
“If a person abides by what is good, life gives him goodness
back in return,” says Abou Saddam.
***
HUSSEIN ALI MOHAMAD
Janitorial Team Leader Siyana – Beirut Souks
City in Portraits
12
The Flutist Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Flutist
Everyday from 1:00pm to 3:00pm, in a cafe with friends,
sounds of old places echo hazily in his ears. They feel so
distant and faint as he gathers the voices of today, in a city
rich with artistic expressions and fine-tuned environments.
Between the rhythms, he swings; his flute strives to express
what the place means to him. Home to the Lebanese National
Higher Conservatory of Music and by association with his
artistry, it communicates an intense beauty, when music
becomes a healer, a powerful expression of rebirth, a
manifestation of hope and renewal.
It wasn’t so long ago! It seems we are still overtaken by these
expressions of grace and beauty. The city is unrealistically
idolized that sometimes she is left too lonely. As a citizen and
a musician, Nabil’s flute laments the fact that the creative and
artistic side of the individual is often ignored or suppressed. He
says, “I am a foreigner touring my native city.” Maybe, one day,
the place will grow to become a safe haven for creative
initiatives and a fertile ground for self-expression.
***
NABIL MROUE
Musician / FlutistLebanese National Higher Conservatory of Music – Zokak El Blatt
City in Portraits
14
The Earthly VeilMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Earthly Veil
Threads intertwine in patterns to weave the fabric of the city.
Young and spontaneous, Audrey is one of the threads that weave
this fabric. The earthly colors of her veil conceal what flows like
an undercurrent beneath all the stratified layers of her dreams
and ambitions. Like the city she has adopted, she knew her life
could not be defined by the past. She added the yarns of today,
the aspirations of tomorrow, and went on weaving.
***
AUDREY ASLY
Interior Architect Dada & Associates – Bab Idriss
City in Portraits
16
The StudentMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Student
His relationship with the place has always been too visual.
As a child, he once visited Riad El Solh Street with his father.
The buildings looked too tall and empty; they were bullet
ridden. In Wadi Abou Jamil where he used to visit relatives,
walls appeared thick, windows too narrow, and the planters
mounted on the wall came off as stubborn.
Slightly older, Adam rode the bus to school past Martyrs’ Square
to Gemmayze. Another element that impacted Adam’s
relationship with the city was the sea. It had become too far to
reach: “The land has drawn the city away from the sea,” he says.
***
ADAM ABOUALEIWI
Lebanese University Architecture Student Beirut City Center
City in Portraits
18
The WriterMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
HAZEM SAGHIEH
Writer and Columnist Al Hayat Newspaper – Etoile-Maarad
The Writer
He slightly knew the pre-war city center. Before he left to
London, he used to go to Roxy and Metropole cinemas and
meet friends at Automatique and La Ronda cafes. His
recollections of old Beirut are so fragmented that the city of
today does not seem to evoke too many distant memories.
Memories of destruction, however, seem to strike: “The image
of ruin engrains itself in one’s mind more than the vision of
prosperity, or normality. War images are too resilient.”
Working in the city center was the beginning of a discovery
period, a discovery of the place that has deliberately moved past
the old picture, a place synonymous with novelty and glamour.
“The very new, the perpetual new, is against any continuity,
memory, and history,” he says. “For something new to have
meaning it must be connected to a certain past, but it should
not be the victim of that past. It’s the march towards
reconciliation.”
The writer thinks that “the city center holds a visitor in high
esteem; it is definitely an attractive place, but it would have
been even more engaging had it been more casual and
spontaneous. Maybe a public library or a newspaper kiosk,
a sandwich cabin or a juice bar would have added the feel
of a more common place. It is a transitional city center, very
much so, and its identity is growing on a daily basis. Bit by bit,
the new generation who knew little about the old city center
will feel more and more integrated. It’s the balance between
continuity on the one hand and novelty, growth, reconstruction,
and development on the other.”
City in Portraits
20
The Art Director Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Art Director
Drawn to images and stories, Laurent alludes to the relationship
between colors, forms, and language as he tries to exemplify
their affinity in his productions.
Inspiration starts with a tingling feeling that blossoms into
a ripe idea for the picking. It needs time and space to grow,
contemplation and variety to formulate. “I find all that at the
terraces of the cafes that are strewn around the city center,”
he says. “It is a sensorial experience.”
***
LAURENT EL KHOURY
Art DirectorGossip Magazine AÏSHTI – Foch-Allenby
City in Portraits
22
Wled El Balad Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
Wled El Balad
Each comes with a different musical background: a blues
guitarist, indie-rock drummer, grunge lyricist, and concert-
trained bassist.
They play a hybrid of rock with Arabic lyrics and electric guitar
with Arabic poetry. They are “the offspring” as their name
suggests, and they believe their “beats” will induce social
change in the heart of the city. Their lyrics, rich with black
comedy, convey the struggles of Lebanese youth, suggesting
endless layers of social grievances. Cynical and sarcastic,
they master the use of figurative language and local allegories.
***
SAAD MALAEB, MAHMOUD RAMADAN, AND MOHAMAD HODEIB
Lebanese BandWaterfront
City in Portraits
24
The ChefsMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
GERALDINE RAMOS MEJES AND HERNANIE LAZARA
Sushi Chefs TSC Signature – Beirut Souks
The Chefs
He is the shokunin (sushi technician or artisan), and she is the
itamae, (the trained chef, literally “with a chopping board in
front”). From behind the sushi counter, they display culinary
dexterity while exchanging banter. You see them wet their
hands lightly with tezu (vinegar-water) and pick up almost the
same amount of grains of rice each time they make the perfect
piece of sushi.
City in Portraits
26
The Gardener Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
GHAZI AL ABED
GardenerSolidere Tree Nursery – Waterfront
The Gardener
Originally from Deir El Zor, a fertile farming area in Syria on
the banks of the Euphrates River, Ghazi lives in a calm and
green area near the Solidere nursery. He tends to the trees
and flowers in the city center every day – watering, planting,
and pruning. He believes that flora not only beautifies an
urban environment, but that “they are also beneficial to
people’s mental health and outlook on life.”
City in Portraits
28
The HostMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MOE EL ABED
Head HostSt. Elmo’s Seaside Brasserie – Zaitunay Bay
The Host
Having grown up in Saudi Arabia, Moe would come to
Lebanon on short visits during summer vacations. His affinity
with the place grew stronger year after year, until he finally
landed in the city center in 2009 with the most attractive and
powerful weapon, his warm smile. The secret of his smile is
behind his eyes; it puts everyone at ease, something that has
added to his success in a job that relies on charisma.
City in Portraits
30
The CheesemongerMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MARC KANAAN
Cheese CounterTSC Signature – Beirut Souks
The Cheesemonger
Marc intertwines his career story with an ongoing love affair
with cheese. He offers cheese-lovers recommendations on
their favorite wedge of fromage from around the world.
Given his appreciation for the skill and tradition that go into
a good slice of antique gruyère, Marc is delighted to have the
chance to practice such a passion in a delicate surrounding
that reflects his careful and meticulous approach. He says,
“Every day, I welcome regular and new clientele, and every
day I make sure I have something new, something to surprise
them with.”
City in Portraits
32
The PriestMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
FATHER RICHARD ABI SALEH
PriestSt Maroun Maronite Church - Saifi
The Priest
Father Richard is a son of Beirut. He walks his way from
St Maroun Maronite Church in Gemmayze to the city
center every day. While enjoying a quiet moment in a cafe,
he observes passersby, their behavior, the social diversity in
public spaces, and the unique religious amalgamation.
In 1990, the city center was in ruins, and the St George
Maronite Cathedral was heavily shelled and without a roof.
Father Richard organized an outdoor event for a cause.
“It was the ordination of a priest. People came. They were
happy to return after so many years of forced interruption,”
explains Father Richard.
“Following reconstruction, Beirut has become an exemplar
of modernity and innovation,” he says. “Cities are places that
have innovative and dynamic aspects to them as well as
challenges and barriers. Beirut is one of those places.
What I come to appreciate about it is that it is not stuck in
a romanticized vision of its own past. Because of its history,
it can't be. The vibe I get, very strongly, is of a place in the
process of remaking itself, on the edge of change, where
people look to the future as much as to the past.”
City in Portraits
34
The ExpertMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
RAY SAAD
Master ButcherCRO MAGNON Steakhouse & Bar – Zaitunay Bay
The Expert
A meat aficionado and skilled butcher, Mahmoud, or Ray as he
is affectionately known, cuts, trims, portions, and dry ages the
prime grain-fed Black Angus Beef served at Cro Magnon
Steakhouse.
Ray keeps a vigilant eye on the dry ageing lockers, making sure
that every piece is properly labeled, stored, and aged for up to
40 days at times. From behind the retail meat counter at Cro,
he personally chooses every cut that goes out to guests.
Striving for quality is how he describes it: “I am proud that the
city has set high standards in its development and is now able
to compete with large cities in the world. I admire the vibe of
modern buildings, the organization, and the professionalism
that almost everyone is striving for.”
City in Portraits
36
The Disc Jockey Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
CALINE CHIDIAC
Public RelationsNada Debs Designs – Saifi
The Disc Jockey
When she was an optometrist in Badaro, Caline began to itch
for a creative career. Her professional journey shifted when
she took a job in Saifi Village with designer Nada Debs,
whose hybrid aesthetic captured her interest. Colors, forms,
and textures also began to cultivate her passion for music.
From Saifi Village to Beirut Souks to private parties, the
unbridled thirst for music fueled by design tendencies
merged into one world. She sometimes works as a DJ at
Momo at the Souks and other hot spots, where she infuses
the soundscape with unique riffs, tones, and motifs.
City in Portraits
38
The BooksellersMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Booksellers
You see them constantly looking over to the shelves. They
never resist the smell of the pages, even if they have become
worn and tattered. Customers spend hours in their bookshop,
browsing and examining, before they purchase their favorite
book for their private libraries.
“Bookstores or libraries are one of the city’s greatest possessions,”
Michel states. “It’s the intellectual infrastructure of any city, and it
is as important as the physical infrastructure.”
***
MICHEL CHOUEIRIGeneral Manager
CHANTAL SFEIRAssistant Manager
Librairie El Bourj – An-Nahar Building
City in Portraits
40
The ChiefMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
ALI SALMAN
F&B Captain WaiterJaipur Restaurant – Markazia Monroe Suites
The Chief
Legend has it that Indians drop hot chillies around doorways to
keep away evil spirits. Perhaps an outlandish claim, but it won’t
do any harm to toss a handful of them every now and then.
It was in Holland where Ali discovered a whole world of
cuisine and the effect of food on lifting the spirits. Cayenne
or cascabel spices, sweet or chili, are all highly prized
condiments serving to enhance the spells of magic.
City in Portraits
42
The VisitorMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
EMMA RUBIN
Danish TouristBeirut City Center
The Visitor
The story follows Emma Rubin, just as she was gazing
at “The Visitor” in Beirut Souks, when she was suddenly
captured by the spirit of an unforgettable scene. “It is like
nothing I have expected,” she says, “a little bit more than
anything I have expected.”
Drenched with sunlight, Emma trekked through the dense
history of the “once-upon-a-time Paris of East”: the intriguing
cultural heritage, the social diversity, the “exotic” food
experience, the young spirit of the whole surrounding, and
mostly the untouched bullet holes etched into some of the
restored building façades. As a theatre student, Emma’s
imagination migrated to those scenes of war that have marked
the place.
“The Visitor” is a public art installation by Arne Quinze (Belgium)
in Beirut Souks.
City in Portraits
44
The SpiritsMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
ELIE ABI KHALIL AND ZAHI RIZKALLAH
PartnersZucca Mixology Bar – Uruguay Street
The Spirits
It is about the “spirit” that seeps into the wood while aging
and never evaporates from the barrel. Smoky and bold, it holds
a splendid blend of aromas, liquid colors of gold, and fortified
tastes as old as a city.
Inspired by the place and the layers of history it accumulates,
Zucca formulates recipes with the most spirited layering and
fragrances, something to do with the gravity of the different
liquids. From the heaviest to the lightest, liquors are garnered
with a dash of perfume, crushed sage or mint, and served in
copper cups. The result is multi-colored and multi-layered
cocktail that filters through the soul and dissolves into the spirit.
City in Portraits
46
The DwellerMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MARCEL GHANEM
Television Anchor Resident – Saifi
The Dweller
It was an intimate and outgoing conversation with Marcel.
As a resident of Saifi Village, he openly reflected about the city
center as an urban phenomenon and the rise of a multifaceted
cultural arena that mirrors the many facets of Lebanon.
“Regardless of the controversies, the end result is an oasis that
other areas should emulate,” he says.
Known for his sociopolitical commentary, Marcel’s interview-
based television program “Kalam Ennass” always exposes
current and critical topics. It’s constantly the latest and most
important events that inspire his opening monologues.
However, this time, it was the ongoing enduring story of the
city, her heart, and the rest of the nation that triggered his
emotional sensitivity.
“More images of Beirut will be reflected in the city center when
people extend their horizons beyond local boundaries and when
the notion of a ‘center’ for gathering becomes publicized,” he
says. “Only then, will we learn about the achievements of local
and international architects, and only then will we value those
world-renowned artists visiting our shores, leaving traces and
imprints for generations to come.”
City in Portraits
48
The Planner Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MAHER NAKIB
Operations, Maintenance, and Technical Services Division ManagerSolidere – Beirut City Center
The Planner
He used to visit the city center as a child with his father who
owned a business off Foch Street. Today, Maher commutes to
his workplace from Saida, carpooling with three others as his
contribution to saving energy and reducing pollution.
As part of his job, he moves around the city center during
the day. He always spots something new, a flower budding,
a building completed, and a shop opening. “It is time to enjoy
the city anew, time to cherish the past and appreciate the
present,” he says. “The essence is not in comparing the present
with the past; what matters is the huge effort that we have
spared, beyond the feelings of regret, to bring the city back.”
City in Portraits
50
The Architects Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
TOUFIC AL-AYYASHInterior Architect
TEDDY HAJJAR
Interior Designer
Dada & Associates – Bab Idriss
The Architects
They meet in the middle of the impossible, equal partners
standing at opposite poles.
Obsessed with their space but terrified of becoming
pigeonholed, they are tied by one conflicting quest: success.
They are the constant interplay between forces: feeling and
reason, vision and reality, permanence and flux, fact and trivia.
At the collision of the “two architects,” a new space of endless
possibilities will emerge.
City in Portraits
52
The GuardMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MOHAMAD BADER
Dog Handler S9 Unit – Beirut City Center
The Guard
He molded him into a reliable guard dog: finely bred, faithful,
and athletic. Together, they patrol the city sites all day long.
Understanding the importance of security and safety control,
Mohamad operates within his assigned zones with high
commitment.
Long shifts and emergency calls are routine, and he knows
how to deal with unfamiliar situations. While everyone enjoys
the day-and-night safe environment, he remains the watchful
eye that detects threats and warnings.
City in Portraits
54
The Lady of Turath Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
SAMIRA TALHOUK TAKIEDDINE
Shop ManagerTurath (NGO created by May Jumblat) – Saifi
The Lady of Turath
For as long as she can remember, it has been the place of
a dear old memory and the time that has elapsed.
Her affiliation with the city center goes back a long way, and
she holds it dear to her heart. It is the place where she served
for years with her late husband, when he headed a department
at the Municipality.
Managing Turath since 2004, Samira showcases handmade
needlework and vintage embroideries of the Shouf region.
“Our aim is to empower women in our region by giving
them a chance to use their skills and generate income for
their families.”
City in Portraits
56
The Urban GirlMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
KRISTINA ZOUEIN
Production Manager and Designer Johnny Farah Bags, Belts, and Accessories – Saifi
The Urban Girl
Between the Johnny Farah ateliers in Bourj Hammoud and
Mar Mikhael, and the boutique in Saifi Village, Kristina is
constantly struck by the charm and complexity of the urban
contrast. The soulful, chaotic, and intense street movement in
Bourj Hammoud juxtaposes with the serene, idyllic order in
Saifi Village. The richness of this contrast invites her to step
outside the box and take a chance on exploring new insights
and perceptions.
A designer and a production manager, Kristina recognizes the
value of an accessory that has been crafted by the hand of a
dedicated artisan. Skill and workmanship require a great deal
of time and patience, a commitment to the continuous
development of the craft.
City in Portraits
58
The CorrespondentMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
ALIA IBRAHIMSenior Correspondent
LOUIS AL ACHKARCameraman
Al Arabiya TV – Riad El Solh
The Correspondent
Personal memories tying her to the place take her back to the
mid-nineties, when as a fresh college graduate, she guided
visitors who came to witness the resurrection of the city.
“Artists, photographers, writers, architects, comedians,
students, archeologists, investors, expats, and even former
hostages visited, and I took them on a stroll along Beirut’s
history and its future,” she says. “There were plenty of wounds,
but it was a time for healing. It was a magnificent time.”
After a summer of tour guiding, Alia pursued journalism,
and over two decades later the city is still her base. Her job as a
correspondent takes her to the worlds of politics, discrimination,
and injustice across Lebanon and far beyond. It always brings
her back to an office, a coffee shop, and other routines that have
become essential in her life and that of her family.
“I have a great deal of affection for the place. Sometimes I am
irritated by how orderly and inaccessible it is; it feels too unreal.
Yet I feel I am being too harsh; I know the city is growing, it is
accumulating time, stories, and experience. Home can be a
turbulent place, but this is the only place I’d call home.”
City in Portraits
60
The EducatorMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
DALIA MURAD HAMDAN
DirectorLebanese Montessori School (Lemonts) – Saifi
The Educator
Early in 2000, Dalia embarked on a mission of discovery,
a journey of a lifelong learning.
Acting as an educational guide and a co-learner at the same
time, her relationship with children took the form of a new
concept of instruction, one which challenges children to take
an active role in learning. Dalia was inspired by the words of
Colombian novelist Gabriel García Marquéz, who was an avid
supporter of the principles of Montessori. He said, “I do not
believe there is a method better than Montessori for making
children sensitive to the beauties of the world and awakening
their curiosity regarding the secrets of life.” Dalia remains
faithful to the same philosophy of “seeking the release of
human potential.”
Under her wings, children grow. She offers them a space rich
with love and inspiration, an environment that extends beyond
the classroom and opens up to the wide horizon.
City in Portraits
62
The Moroccan FlairMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
SABINE JABBOUR
Operation ManagerMomo at the Souks – Beirut Souks
The Moroccan Flair
With degrees in Nutrition and Food Technology under her belt,Sabine landed at Momo’s after exploring other poles of Beirut.
“The French and North African destination is an exotic oasis,
a blend of vintage and modern, and a gourmet experience,”
she says. In those same exact terms, Sabine describes the
city center.
The finest of Moroccan arts is its cuisine, and tea remains a
drink of pure hospitality. It has to be poured from a distance to
produce the foam on top of it. Served à la marocaine allthrough the day, it is said that the first glass is as gentle as life,
the second as strong as love, the third as bitter as goodbye.
City in Portraits
64
The Entrepreneur Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MICHEL ELEFTERIADES
Founder and Co-owner MusicHall and ElefRecords – Hotel District
The Entrepreneur
For many, Cuba brings to mind cigars, old cars, and sunny
beaches. After he spent almost two years on the Caribbean
island, it is revolution and the passionate Latin rhythm that
swayed his soul and awakened his entrepreneurial instincts.
Upon his return to Lebanon, Michel went into a few music
industry-related ventures – the founding and running of the
Byblos Mediterraneo Festival, the Amor y Libertad club in
Kaslik, and ElefRecords, a Warner record label – until a vision
directed his focus to the city center.
Equipped with a plan, in which he fervently believed and upon
which he acted, he followed a route of success – a dreamer
consumed with the need to communicate with his words,
music, writing, voice, art, and actions. With observational skills
and flair, he hunted for people overflowing with latent
potential and hidden talents, and he perceived opportunities
and saw potential developments in a groundbreaking concept –
the now mythical MusicHall, a cultural showbiz hub for local
and international acts.
City in Portraits
66
The Pearl FisherMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
EL HUSSEINI WAHBA EL HADARI
Fish CounterTSC Signature – Beirut Souks
The Pearl Fisher
His day starts before dawn, when he leaves Almoun, a seaside
village in North Lebanon, to take the bus to the city center. Back
home in Al Mansoura, an Egyptian city resting on the east bank
of the Nile, Wahba was a jeweler. In Lebanon, he fishes for
pearls as a purveyor of fruits de mer and fresh fish. His regularcustomers have come to trust his recommendations just as he
has grown to know their expectations.
Whenever he gets the chance, Wahba visits Mohammad Al
Amine Mosque. He says, “It reminds me of Al Hussein
Mosque in Cairo, especially during the month of Ramadan
and Eid holidays, a place that makes me feel at home.”
City in Portraits
68
The Coffee Seller Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
TAREK GHANEM
SalesmanIlly Boutique – Foch-Allenby
The Coffee Seller
When coffee plants were first tasted by monk Chadely,* he had
to crush them into powder and pour boiling water over them.
The effect was heavenly. It helped him stay awake during his
long hours of prayer.
From monastery to monastery amongst fellow monks, coffee
shrubs were believed to be the divine gift brought by an angel
from heaven to the faithful.
From a humble seedling with religious roots to rituals of
freshly brewed cups in cities around the world, coffee culture
has become an increasingly dominant form of social behavior.
Skilled at distinguishing flavors, bodies, and aromas, Tarek
religiously practices the rituals of coffee marketing. He knows
which blends leave a dry aftertaste and which ones give off a
floral taste.
* Chadely is a monk from a monastery in Eastern Africa
(modern day Ethiopia), the first to try the effects of coffee beans
after a shepherd named Kaldi introduced the shrubs to him.
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The StrategistMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
KRYSTEL KILO
Senior Marketing Strategy OfficerBank Audi – Bab Idriss
The Strategist
For the past three or four years, the city, which she used to visit
for shopping and social gatherings, has also become her place
of work.
The contemporary milieu housing her office, with high ceilings,
green corners, and water features, is an inspiring and productive
environment for the dynamic and ambitious strategist.
From time to time, Krystel enjoys a break from her routine:
she fancies a cup of coffee with friends, shopping, or an
evening out, all within walking distance. “This accessibility
is both practical and pleasant,” she says.
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The LawyerMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
CHADIA EL MEOUCHI NAOUM WITH AVA
Managing Partner Badri and Salim El Meouchi Law Firm – Saifi
The Lawyer
Another city face! A tailored suit and a black gown! Not quite.
Another city voice who “irrevocably declares that all statements
made herein of my own knowledge are true and…” Barely!
It’s the discreet voice of Chadia, a mother who seeks to declare
and advocate no more than a culture of peace, justice, and
harmony.
Chadia lived most of her life abroad. As a lawyer and a mother,
civic order remains her primary quest. She chose to work and
live in Saifi Village. “Happy,” as she says, “to feel safe and
secure, in a multicultural community and a clean unpolluted
environment.”
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The Ballerina Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MIA AWAYDA
VisitorBeirut City Center
The Ballerina
One day, she will get her own curtain call, and she will dance
center stage under the spotlights. She is the prima ballerina
who dances in graceful harmony.
A few more minutes to curtain, Mia impatiently taps her foot.
She twirls to join the corps de ballet. Lifted off her feet, a surgeof applause rushes through the crowded hall. Yasma, her sister
and idol, and her friends, Cybelle, Makram, and Yasmina, are
watching from their velvet-cushioned seats. They are yelling,
incessantly yelling, and Mia wakes up.
She awakens to join them at the ice-skating arena, Planet
Discovery, around the Christmas tree, and the doughnut kiosk.
Then she returns to the stage and throws herself again into her
spontaneous dancing.
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The Pigeon Keeper Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
FARID CHEHADE
Singer and MusicianMusicHall – Hotel District
The Pigeon Keeper
Pigeons are easy to breed and their behavior has always been
an intriguing theme in the urban environment. They call to
each other and fly close to one another. One can spend a whole
afternoon watching them.
“It was during our early years in Jerusalem when the world
of pigeons drew us in. Another world, another realm. There is
the Baghdadi , rare, colored and quite large; the Egyptian, with
a narrow body and a long sloping back; the Polish, which is
small and has a flower design on its chest; the qallab that flipsover while flying, and a hundred different species,” says Farid.
Years later, down the road in Etoile Square, Farid introduced
the wonderful kingdom of pigeons to his son. This amazing
bird never forgets a face. It roams endless lands and always
finds the way back home.
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The Academic TravelerMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
FEDERICO LOSADA CARRIÓN
Academic DirectorCervantes Institute – Etoile-Maarad
The Academic Traveler
Bolivia is his country of birth. His travels carried him to
Granada, then Madrid, Algiers, Vienna, Tangiers, Rabat and
Beijing, before he came to Beirut. Where one comes from is
merely a location. On the eve of his departure, after five years
of residency, he will be “from Beirut” at his next destination.
Perplexed by his feeling for Lebanon yet certain he will miss it,
Federico holds dear to his heart how the people of this country,
despite their deep and long uncertainties, still live from day to
day and always to the fullest. They anticipate tomorrow without
planning it, they don’t hang onto the past, they maintain family
and make friends, they clear their minds and laugh a lot, and
they seize the day, every day, as if it’s their last.
In his briefcase, Federico will carry all such stories. Places
of the city will chase him through the maze of memories –
the once-upon-a-time happiness he encountered in Etoile
Square, the children playing and pigeons flying amid military
police with machine guns and armored official vehicles, the
friendly taxi driver sharing his life story on a 10-minute drive,
the smell of bread, the chaotic order, the sea and the passionate
longing deep within the heart of the city.
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80
The SheikhMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
SHEIKH DR. MOHAMMED ANIS AL-ARWADI
Member of the Muslim Council of Forensic Top of the Dar Al-Fatwa in BeirutBeirut City Center
The Sheikh
Dr. Mohammed Anis Al-Arwadi has been teaching and giving
speeches at different mosques in the city center and other parts
of Beirut, as assigned by the General Directorate of Dar Al
Awqaf of Mosques and Endowments, for nearly fifteen years.
Sheikh Mohammed grew up in the Aicha Bakkar neighborhood
just fifteen minutes from the city center. As a child, he used to
take a five-piastre (unit of currency) train trip to downtown. He
remembers Al Majidiyyeh and Abou Bakr al-Siddiq (Dabbagha)
mosques that, decades ago, stood on the edge of the Beirut
peninsula, overlooking the sea. With his uncles, he used to
visit the Emir Munzer Mosque, and Al Amin Mosque when it
was operating as a zawiya (prayer corner) since the midnineteenth century.
He pursued his studies in Italy, where he lived for ten years,
and came back to Lebanon in 1984 with a PhD in internal
medicine. Later on in his career, he pursued degrees in Islamic
Sharia and Comparative Islamic Jurisprudence.
Sheikh Mohammed hails the restoration and reconstruction
efforts that “have enriched the mosques’ architectural details
and brought valuable additions, such as Hadiqat Al Quran
(Quran Garden) at Al Omari Mosque,” as he says.
Sheikh Mohammed often roams the city center with his family.
He has a soft spot in his heart for the Emir Munzer Mosque –
his late uncle used to preach there. He finds refuge in nature
and in the sea. He says, “I still do this with my son. We enjoy
the time when we leave the city behind and go fishing.”
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82
The BarberMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
The Barber
He wanted to reinvent the golden age of hair salons.
Narrow places with stunning surroundings, marble counters,
chandeliers hanging from frescoed ceilings, wintergreen-
flavored tobacco smoke, hair pomades, and powders.
Bachir is the barber who knows how to fashion a style and an
atmosphere. With kits and tools as old as the profession itself,
the warm and relaxing ambiance envelops his customers with
a welcoming familiarity: a story to share, a conversation about
politics, fashion, sports, a celebrity magazine, and careless
comments about serious events.
***
BACHIR BAHRIHairdresser
MOHAMAD ABU EL HASSAN
Assistant Hairdresser
Ï Day Spa Aïshti – Foch-Allenby
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84
The Bread MakerMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MONA EL DURR
Saj Bread MakerSouk El Tayyeb – Beirut Souks
The Bread Maker
Mona, known as Imm Ali, hails from Majdel Zoun, a village in
southern Lebanon. She supports her family of four children by
baking saj bread (flat bread) at Souk El Tayeb, the weeklyoutdoor farmers’ market in the city center.
Since 2002, visitors to the market follow the warm scent of
freshly baked bread and watch her prepare loaves with the
precision of an artisan.
Imm Ali’s bread follows the paths of old generations: she
spreads the flattened dough on a round piece of cloth, places it
over the saj fire, and turns it into a primitive form of flatbread.By cultivating the folklore of tailored recipes and techniques,
her hands perform the majority of labor, revealing the tact of
the human craft, and the strong roots of an old tradition.
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86
The ArcheologistMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
MICHEL DAOUD
Architect, Restorer, and ArcheologistBeirut City Center
The Archeologist
As a child, he accompanied his father to the printing services
company he owned in Bab Idriss area. Childhood memories
seem to resurface every time he visits those places. He never
thought that some day he would uncover buried cities, hidden
pathways, and veiled realities.
The Ancient Tell northeast of Martyrs’ Square was his
first intervention on the conservation of archaeological sites.
The site yielded a series of fortification walls from the Bronze
Age to the medieval period, which made it a long and complex
project. When working on other sites in the city center,
archaeological features dating back to the Neolithic to Medieval
times were salvaged.
“By preserving those remains we conserve their historical
value, and consequently the evidence of our important
civilization,” says Michel. Some of these were put aside to be
later integrated within the modern developments, others were
preserved in situ, but “the Phoenico-Persian Quarter museumon the northeast side of the Souks is an exemplary in situpreservation of archeological finds.”
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88
The Merchants Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
GHAZI, KAMEL, MAHER, AND FAYSAL JAWAD
Carpet Wholesalers and RetailersAhmad Jawad & Sons – Foch-Allenby
The Merchants
In 1927, Ahmad Jawad established a carpet business on
Allenby Street in Beirut city center, a business that has
contributed to the growth and prosperity of the neighborhood.
The second generation joined the league of furnishing homes
in Lebanon and around the world, where carpet patterns find
roots in legends and popular culture. “Each design is the
weaving of a particular civilization, a particular time in a life,
a path, and a meaning. They age with their owners, and they
keep silent memories of their lives,” Maher says.
The early nineties witnessed the end of the war and the
recovery of the city’s old role and identity. The Jawad family
joined forces in endeavoring to recover their building and
breathe new life into a prominent trademark and business
location. Today, the third-generation merchants carry on the
family legacy.
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90
The Pastor Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
REVEREND DR. HABIB BADR
Senior Pastor National Evangelical Church of Beirut – Zokak El Blatt
����������
American missionaries arrived in Beirut in 1823 and established
a church for themselves as foreigners in 1826 (now the
International Community Church).
In 1848 the National Evangelical Church was organized, and in
1869 a church edifice was built. It is located on the hillside of
Zokak El Blatt near the Grand Serail.
Reverend Habib Badr grew up in this church. It is where he
was baptized and where he got married, but the civil war,
which lasted from 1975 until 1990, left the church in ruins.
Following the reconstruction of the National Evangelical
Church and completion of restoration works in 1998, Pastor
Habib Badr resumed services and has since revived the
community, reaching people from all walks of life who join
in worship on Sundays, religious holidays, and other events.
The Pastor
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92
The Trend Trailer
One of the things she likes most is to stroll through the narrow
streets of the city and hang out at an outdoor cafe after a long
shopping spree. The city looks too picturesque. “I love that it’s
different than anywhere else. Everything about it is related, you
feel it is one space,” she says.
Rhea is an interior architect with an eye for details. She values
the built environment as a whole: the discrete blend of colors,
the religious amalgamation, and the archeological remains
deep-seated in the city fabric.
***
RHEA SHIBLEY
Interior ArchitectDada & Associates – Bab Idriss
The Trend Trailer Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
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94
The SalesmanMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
SAMI AZKOUL
SalesmanNada Debs – Saifi
The Salesman
Dressed neatly and professionally, Sami wears a casual,
sincere smile that comes to him naturally. He offers his
clientele friendly greetings while his sense of humor
lightens the atmosphere.
“The Saifi Village location has its own demographics of
customers,” he says, and Sami has learned what works for
them. What he aims for is to make their experience pleasant
so that they come back again soon.
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96
The CaricaturistMiguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
STAVRO JABRA
Caricature Artist and PhotographerBeirut City Center
The Caricaturist
“Beirut is MY capital, I see her with my own lens,” says Stavro.
The city is satirically depicted through an insatiable and
passionate camera lens – before, during, and after the war.
At every turn, moments of old Beirut resurface. He recalls
every face, street, and building. While he travels between the
past and the present, a scan of an old remaining landmark is
always in the background, a proof of how the place has been
restlessly travelling through time.
The quotidian life of the city remains in focus. All the vices,
abuses, and shortcomings are held up to ridicule in his
“images insolites,” a photo-caricature in the Lebanese French-language daily newspaper L’Orient-Le Jour. And while he is known for drawing endless smiles on the faces of the city,
his light-hearted satire has always swallowed the most seriously
bitter after-tastes.
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The Beiruti Miguel Ángel Sánchez, April 2012
***
ABOU KHALED
Narguileh WaiterPetit Café – Etoile-Maarad
The Beiruti
A narguileh waiter for many, many years, the 75-year-old AbouKhaled has met people from all over the world and has taken
pictures with most for keepsake. He says, “People stop to
admire my folkloric clothing, the cherwal. My picture getstaken at least 20 times a day with locals and tourists, without
exaggeration. I was told my photos have reached as far as
China!”
Certain in his adoption of the new vision of the city center,
Abou Khaled has crystal clear and fond memories of the past:
the Singer sewing machine shop, the one lira store, the Bafka
chocolate factory, and the tramway that used to circle the whole
city. With a voice filled with warmth and longing, he chants,
“Rizkallah ala iyyamak ya tramway Beirut” – hail to the days ofthe Beirut tramway!
Following thorough planning and logistics, the team relocated to the
“black box” in Beirut Souks. The portraits were photographed in
sequence according to a clear call-sheet. Under carefully selected
studio lights and with the necessary props for each scene, the
randomly selected characters posed under the photographer’s
influences, following short conversations that inspired the stories.
***
The MakingCity in Portraits
Design and ProductionMultidisciplinary Design Department
Writing and Editing Multidisciplinary Design Department
CoordinationChairman’s Office
and Business Development Unit
Studio SetupCommunications and Public Relations
Division
PhotographyMiguel Ángel Sánchez
Photography AssistanceNuria Tesón
Special thanks to
ABBAS BASSAM
ALI HAMED
ANTHONY NAOUM
BACHAR MAKTABI
CAROLE HAKIM
CECILE FARAH
CHARIF BADIH
DIVINA ABOU JAOUDE
GAELLE IRANI
IMAD ANTOUN
KHALED AL NAFIS
LEILA HAMED
MAJIDA AZAR
MOHAMAD IBRAHIM
NIZAR SONBOL
OMAR KHATTAB
RABIH EZZO
RAMI CHEHADE
SHEREEN SALEH
SUHEIL SOLRANA
WALID ABI MERCHED
WALID BERJAWI
YASMA AWAYDA
YASMINE ABOU ASSAF MAKAROUN
COLOPHON
Copyright © 2012 Solidere
All rights reserved. No part of this publication can be reproducedor transmitted in any form or by any means, whether by
photocopying, recording or facsimile machine or otherwisehowsoever without prior written permission from Solidere.
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