PERCROScuola Superiore S. Anna1 “Preliminary results of SoA on Fabric Hand” Exeter, September 26 th – 27 th 2005 4 th HAPTEX Meeting PERCRO D4.1: Technical

PERCRO Scuola Superiore S. Anna 1

““Preliminary results of SoA on Fabric Hand”Preliminary results of SoA on Fabric Hand”

Exeter, September 26th – 27th 2005

44thth HAPTEX HAPTEX MeetingMeeting

PERCROPERCRO

D4.1: Technical Specifications of the D4.1: Technical Specifications of the Integrated Haptic InterfaceIntegrated Haptic Interface


Main Content of D4.1Main Content of D4.1

D 4.1 defines the specifications of the Complete Haptic Interface

The deliverable will be organized in 5 main chapters:

• Qualitative Description of the Haptic Interaction

• Typical Value of the Operational Parameters during Haptic Interaction

• Force Feedback Device (FFD) Specifications

• Tactile Feedback Device (TFD) Specifications

• Internal Interfaces between FFD and TFD


Qualitative Description of the Haptic InteractionQualitative Description of the Haptic Interaction

Main Content1. Relevant Properties of the Textile to be Assessed during Haptic Interaction. Which are the properties that allow us to distinguish between two different textiles? Examples: membrane stiffness, bending stiffness, friction, softness, roughness, …

2. Handling gestures for the Assessment of the Relevant Properties. For each relevant property, to define how we manipulate the fabric to get an evaluation of it.

Example: bending stiffness to hold the textile between index and thumb and shake it?

3. Determinant Stimuli for the Perception/Evaluation of the Relevant Property. For each relevant property, to define which is the most important mechanical stimulus for its

perception/evaluation. Examples: membrane stiffness tangential stress/strain on the fingertip-skin? softness contact area rate of change with normal force?

Method: State of Art Analysis, Interviews (Garment Industry)

Involved Partners: PERCRO (3), SWL (1,2), UNEXE (3)


Properties of the textilesProperties of the textiles

At the moment the analysis of the state of art on this topic has been carried out on the following references:

[1] Grineviciute D., Daukantiene V., Gutauskas M., “Textile Hand: Comparison of Two Evaluation Methods”, ISSN 1392-1320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDZIAGOTYRA), Vol. 11, No. 1, 2005

[2] Grineviciute D., Gutauskas M., “The Comparison of Methods for The Evaluation of Woven Fabric Hand”, ISSN 1392-1320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDZIAGOTYRA), Vol. 10, No. 1, 2004

[3] Shishoo R., “Objective measurement of fabric handle: dream or reality?”, avantex - International Forum for future trends in textiles and technology, International Symposium for High-Tech Apparel Textiles and Fashion Engineering with Innovation – Forum, Lectures, November 27, 2000

[4] Stylios G., Cheng L., “A Neural-fuzzy Modelling for the Prediction of Fabric Handle Values”



[5] Hui C. L., “Neural Network Prediction of Human Psychological Perceptions of Fabric Hand”

[6] Elder H. M., Fisher S., Armstrong K., Hutchison G., “Fabric softness, handle and compression”, J. Text. Inst., 1984,Vol.75, No. 1, 37-46

[7] Elder H. M., Fisher S., Armstrong K., Hutchison G., “Fabric stiffness, handle and flexion”, J. Text. Inst., 1984, Vol.75, No. 2, 99-106

[8] Elder H. M., Fisher S., Hutchison G., Beattie S., “A Psychological Scale for Fabric Stiffness”, J. Text. Inst., 1985, No. 6, 442-449

[9] Dent R. W., “An Analysis of Fabric ‘Hand’ and ‘Feel’ ”, International Nonwovens Journal, Spring 2000, Vol. 9, No.1

[10] Cho G., Casali J. G., Yi E., “Effect of Fabric Sound and Touch on Human Subjective Sensation”, Fibers and Polymers 2001, Vol.2, No.4, 196-202



[11] Cho G., Kim C., Casali J. G., “Sensory Evaluation of Fabric Touch by Free Modulus Magnitude Estimation”, Fibers and Polymers 2002, Vol.3, No.4, 169-173

[12] Dillon P., Moody W., Bartlett R., Scully P., Morgan R., James C., “Sensing the Fabric: To simulate sensation through sensory evaluation and in response to standard acceptable properties of specific materials when viewed as a digital image”

[13] Winakor G., Kim C. J., “Fabric Hand: Tactile Sensory Assessment”, Textile Research Journal, October 1980, Vol.50, No.10, 601-610



• No common accepted nomenclature for properties regarding fabric hand• No common accepted meaning of the terms used for indicating the fabric properties [4][5][6][7][13]:

Background facts

• Subjective assessment depends on the experience, culture and sensitivity of the subject [5][12]• Some of the most recurrent terms for indicating the fabric properties:

Differences between countries Differences between the companies in the same country Differences between experts in the same company Differences between genders The meaning changes also with the type of textile

smoothness, softness, stiffness, roughness, thickness, warmth, hardness, crispness, drape, harshness, pliability, boardy, creasability, weight

• Because of the previous problems, subjects involved in many research are given precise oral definitions of the fabric properties or are trained [1][2][5]


Relevance of the properties on the fabric handRelevance of the properties on the fabric handScientists who earlier investigated textile hand stated that the most relevant fabric properties for fabric hand are [1][3]:

Peirce stated that fabric hand mainly depends on stiffness, softness and smoothness [9].The roles of stiffness, smoothness and thickness or weight in determining fabric hand were confirmed by Howorth [9].



Towards a definition of the properties

• Direct definitions

Many researches have been carried out in order to find a correlation between subjective fabric properties assessment and the physical parameters of the fabric that can be objectively measured with a suitable equipment (like for example the Kawabata system) [1][2][6][7][10][11]. The definition of the properties could be indirectly derived using this correlation.

• Indirect definitions

Few direct definitions of textile properties have been found in literature (as said above they cannot be considered a standard). Examples:

Softness ease of yielding to pressure [6]

Smoothness presumably determined by the fabric surface roughness and coefficient of friction [9]



Example of correlation [3]:



References to be analysed:- Peirce F. T., “The ‘Handle’of Cloth as a Measurable Quantity”, JTI, T.377, 1930- Howorth, W. S., Oliver, P. H., “The Application of Multiple Factor Analysis to the Assessment of Fabric Handle”, Journal of the Textile Institute ISSN 0040-5167 49, 1958, pp. T540 – T553- Howorth, W. S., “The Handle of Suiting, Lingerie and Dress Fabrics”, Journal of the Textile Institute 55, 251, 1964- Civille G. V., Dus C. A., “Development of Terminology to Describe the Handfeel Properties of Paper and Fabrics”, Journal of Sensory Studies 5, 19-32, 1990- Brand R. H., “Measurement of Fabric Aesthetics: Analysis of Aesthetic Components”, Textile Res. J. 34, 791-804, 1994- Wauer M. R., “Consumers' and Home Economists' Fabric Descriptions”, J. Home Earn. 57, 33-35, 1965



- Bishop D. P., “Fabrics: Sensory and Mechanical Properties”, Journal of the Textile Institute ISSN 0040-5167 26 (3) 1996: pp. 1-63- Ellis B. C., Garnsworthy R. K., “A Review of Techniques for the Assessment of Hand”, Textile Research Journal 4 1980: pp. 231-238- Hartmann K., Lezki E., Schafer W., “Experiment Planning and Evaluation of Technological Processes”, Moscow, 1977, 552 p. (in Russian)- Mahar T. J., Dhingra R. C., Postle R., “Comparison of Fabric Handle Assessments in Japan, Australia, New Zealand and India”, in "Objective Specification of Fabric Quality, Mechanical Properties and Performance," S. Kawabata, R. Postle, and N. Masako, The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, Osaka, 1982, pp. 149-160- Mahar T. J., Wheelwright P., Dhingra R. C., Postle R., “Measuring and Interpreting Fabric Low Stress Mechanical and Surface Properties, Part V: Fabric Hand Attributes and Quality Descriptors”, Textile Res. J. 60, 7-17, 1990



- Kim C. J., Piromthamsiri K., “Sensory and Physical Hand Properties of Inherently Flame-Retardant Sleepwear Fabrics”, Textile Res. J. 54, 61-68, 1984. J. 60, 7-17, 1990- Kim W. J., Master’s Thesis, Chungnam National University, Daejeon, 1997


Handling of the textilesHandling of the textiles


[1] “Objective Measurements of Fabric Handle after Industrial Finishing Processes. Data on subjective evaluation results”, CRAFT PROJECT BRST-CT98-5534, Fabric Hand, EU Deliverable No. 6, February 2001[2] Moody W., Morgan R., Dillon P., Baber C., Wing A., “Factors Underlying fabric Perception”[3] Dillon P., Moody W., Bartlett R., Scully P., Morgan R., James C., “Sensing the Fabric: To simulate sensation through sensory evaluation and in response to standard acceptable properties of specific materials when viewed as a digital image” [4] Kweon S.-A., Lee E.-K., Choi J.-M., “A Comparative Study on the Subjective Fabric Hand According to Gender for Winter Sleepwear Fabrics”, Fibers and Polymers 2004, Vol.5, No.1, 6-11



[5] Elder H. M., Fisher S., Armstrong K., Hutchison G., “Fabric softness, handle and compression”, J. Text. Inst., 1984,Vol.75, No. 1, 37-46[6] Elder H. M., Fisher S., Armstrong K., Hutchison G., “Fabric stiffness, handle and flexion”, J. Text. Inst., 1984, Vol.75, No. 2, 99-106[7] Hui C. L., “Neural Network Prediction of Human Psychological Perceptions of Fabric Hand”[8] Militky J., “Statistical analysis of subjective fabric hand ”, 3rd Indo-Czech Textile Conference, Textile Faculty Technical University of Liberec, June 14-16, 2004, Czech Republic[9] Militky J., Bajzik V., “Objective Prediction of Pes/Wool Fabric Hand ”



• Lack of standards

• Few researches give definition of the handling gestures

• The definitions of the handling gestures are not enough detailed

• Different environmental conditions

• Two basic procedures of subjective hand evaluation [8][9]:

Background facts

Direct Method Comparative Method



CRAFT PROJECT BRST-CT98-5534 – FABRICHAND (SWL Partner) [1]CRAFT PROJECT BRST-CT98-5534 – FABRICHAND (SWL Partner) [1]

Examples [1][2]Examples [1][2]

The fabric is folded in two, and forefingers are placed inside the folded portion. The handle is evaluated by moving the thumbs, forefingers and middle fingers.

The fabric is folded in two, and the fold is held as if were being pinched with the thumbs and forefingers.

DescriptionDescription



The fabric surface is stroked.

The fabric is folded in two and stretched.

The fabric is picked up at the center with the thumb and forefinger, and dropped from a height of 30-40cm.



Touch-StrokeTouch-Stroke Rotating Cupped Rotating Cupped ActionAction

Multiple Multiple Finger Pinch:Finger Pinch:rotating between rotating between

the fingers the fingers action with one action with one

hand (thumb and hand (thumb and 112 fingers)2 fingers)

Two Handed Two Handed Rotation ActionRotation Action

Project SENSING THE FABRIC (Liverpool, Wolverhampton, Birmingham) [2]Project SENSING THE FABRIC (Liverpool, Wolverhampton, Birmingham) [2]

Handle Handle Technique:Technique:




They state that these are the most relevant



Correlation between handling gestures and properties to be assessedCorrelation between handling gestures and properties to be assessed

In [2] the handle techniques are correlated with the fabric properties evaluated:

Touch-StrokeTouch-Stroke Rotating Rotating Cupped ActionCupped Action

Multiple Multiple Finger PinchFinger Pinch




References to be analysed:

- Dillon P., Moody W., Bartlett R., Scully P., Morgan R., James C., “Sensing the Fabric: The Development of a Multi-Modal Device to investigate the Potential for Virtual Sensory Feedback Aligned to Textile Image”, IFFTI 3rdAnnual Conference, Fashion Directions: Visioning the Future, London College of Fashion, November, 2000- Howorth, W. S., “The Handle of Suiting, Lingerie and Dress Fabrics”, Journal of the Textile Institute 55, 251, 1964


Perception mechanism of the fabric propertiesPerception mechanism of the fabric properties


[1] Shishoo R., “Objective measurement of fabric handle: dream or reality?”, avantex - International Forum for future trends in textiles and technology, International Symposium for High-Tech Apparel Textiles and Fashion Engineering with Innovation –Forum, Lectures, November 27, 2000[2] Elder, H.M. & Fisher, S. & Armstrong, K.& Hutchison, G. 1984a, “Fabric softness, handle and compression”, J.Text.Inst.,Vol.75, No 1, 37-46[3] Elder, H.M. & Fisher, S. & Armstrong, K.& Hutchison, G. 1984b, “Fabric stiffness, handle and flexion”, J.Text.Inst., Vol.75, No 2, 99-106[4] Militky J., “Statistical analysis of subjective fabric hand ”, 3rd Indo-Czech Textile Conference, Textile Faculty Technical University of Liberec, June 14-16, 2004, Czech Republic[5] Moody W., Morgan R., Dillon P., Baber C., Wing A., “Factors Underlying fabric Perception”



[6] Grineviciute D., Daukantiene V., Gutauskas M., “Textile Hand: Comparison of Two Evaluation Methods”, ISSN 1392-1320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDZIAGOTYRA), Vol. 11, No. 1, 2005[7] Grineviciute D., Gutauskas M., “The Comparison of Methods for The Evaluation of Woven Fabric Hand”, ISSN 1392-1320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDZIAGOTYRA), Vol. 10, No. 1, 2004[8] Cho G., Casali J. G., Yi E., “Effect of Fabric Sound and Touch on Human Subjective Sensation”, Fibers and Polymers 2001, Vol.2, No.4, 196-202[9] Cho G., Kim C., Casali J. G., “Sensory Evaluation of Fabric Touch by Free Modulus Magnitude Estimation”, Fibers and Polymers 2002, Vol.3, No.4, 169-173[10] Dillon P., Moody W., Bartlett R., Scully P., Morgan R., James C., “Sensing the Fabric: To simulate sensation through sensory evaluation and in response to standard acceptable properties of specific materials when viewed as a digital image”



[11] Hui C. L., “Neural Network Prediction of Human Psychological Perceptions of Fabric Hand”[12] Winakor G., Kim C. J., “Fabric Hand: Tactile Sensory Assessment”, Textile Research Journal, October 1980, Vol.50, No.10, 601-610



• The other senses (vision and audio) have an important influence on the subjective assessment of the fabric properties [10][11][12][2][5]

• The mechanisms underlying the haptic perception of the fabric properties are not yet well understood

• On the specific topic relating to perception of roughness, a huge amount of researches can be found.

•A lot of researches on the correlation between the subjective and objective assessments have been carried out in the last decades. In general they have purposes different from ours, but could be useful for the topic [6][7][2][3][8][9]

Background facts



Proposed methods to answer to the question

• Continue the analysis of the state of art on the perception of specific properties

• Derive indications from research that deal with the correlation between

subjective and objective assessment of the fabric properties. Such indications can

help in the formulation of basic hypothesis relating to sensorial inputs of these

mechanisms.


Perception mechanism of the fabric propertiesPerception mechanism of the fabric propertiesExample of research on assessment of softness [2]

Indications useful for our purposes:Indications useful for our purposes:• If the difference of displacement due to the applied pressure is under a threshold (0.05-0.10mm), the subject can not distinguish between different fabric softness.• In that case the subject has to change the type of handling (for example bending the textile instead of squeezing) to get the right assessment.

Aim: to produce a subjective scale of fabric softness and to compare it with the objective measure of compression.Subjective AssessmentThe judges were 20 students and staff from a university psychology department without technical experience of handling fabrics (someone experience of psycophysical eperiments). A pillary box with two hand-holes was used so that the judge could not see the fabric. The temperature and the relative humidity of the room were under control. The judges had to put four fingers on top of the fabric sample. They were asked to apply a light pressure (as costant as possible on different samples) and to concentrate on softness only.Objective MeasurementsCompression tests were carried out by an Instron Tensile Tester fitted with an appropriate compression load cell.



References to be analysed:

- Bolanowsky S., J. et. all, “Four channels mediate the mechanical aspects of touch”, J. Acoustical Society of America, 84,1680-94, 1988- P. Anttila, Professor, PhD, “The Tactile Evaluation of Textiles on the basis of the Cognitive Psychology, compared with the physical analysis”, The Kuopio Academy of Crafts and Design, Helsinki- Lundgren H. P., “New Concepts in Evaluating Fabric Hand”, Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1, 35-45, 1969


General references to be analysedGeneral references to be analysed

- Behery H., “Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand”, Woodhead Publishing Limited, (not yet published)- Binns H., Journal of the Textile Institute 17, 615, 1926 - Kim J., Jeon D., Barker R. L., J. Kor. Fiber Soc., 33 (11), 974, 1996- Hoffman R. M., Beste L. F., “Some Relations of Fiber Properties to Fabric Hand”, Textile Res. J. 21, 66-77, 1951- Kim E. A., Park M. J., Shin H. W., Oh K. H., “Understanding and Evaluation of Apparel Fabric”, p.138, Kyomoon Publishing House, Seoul, 1997- AATCC Midwest Section, “An Assessment of the Relationship Between Softness Level and People’s Appreciation of Fabric “Hand””, Am. Dyest. Reptr. 55, 30-39, 1966- Bogaty H., Hollies N. R. S., Harris M., “The judgment of Harshness of Fabrics”, Textile Research Journal 26, 355-360, 1956- Dawes V. H., Owen J. D., “The Assessment of Fabric Handle, Part I: Stiffness and Liveliness”, Journal of the Textile Institute 62, 233-244, 1971



- Matsuo T., Nasu N., Saito M., “Study on the Hand, Part 2: The Method for Measuring Hand”, J. Textile Mach. Soc. Japan 17, 92-104, 1971, English edition

- Binns H., “The Discrimination of Wool Fabrics by the Sense Touch”, Br. J. Psychol. 16, 237-247, 1926

- Burns L. D., Brown D. M., Cameron B., Chandler J., Dallas M. J., Kaiser S. B., “Sensory Interaction and Descriptions of Fabric Hand”, Percept. Mot. Skills 81, 120122, 1995

- Gwosdow A. R., Stevens J. C., Berglund L. G., Stolwijk J. A. J., “Skin Friction and Fabric Sensations in Neutral and Warm Environments”, Textile Res. J. 56 (9), 574-580, 1986

- Kawabata S., Niwa M., “Analysis of Hand Evaluation of Wool Fabrics for Men's Suits Using Data of a Thousand Samples and Computation of Hand from the Physical Properties”, in ‘Proc. 5h Int. Wool Textile Research Conference’, Vol. 5, 1975, pp. 413-424



- Laughlin J., “Perception of Texture, Visually and Tactually: An Exploratory Study Using Multidimensional Scaling Analysis”, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 3 (1), 28-36, 1991- Meilgaard M. C., Civille G. V., Carr B. T., “Sensory Evaluation Techniques”, 2nd ed., CRC Press, Boca Raton, FL, 1991- Yick K. L., Cheng K. P. S., How Y. L., “Subjective and Objective Evaluation of Men's Shirting Fabrics”, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 7 (4), 17-29, 1995- Baird J. C., Noma E., “Fundamentals of Scaling and Psychophysics”, John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1978- Chambers E. IV, Wolf M. B., “Sensory Testing Methods”, ASTM, 2nd ed., 1996- Behery H. M., “Comparison of Fabric Hand Assessment in the United States and Japan”, Textile Res. J. 56, 227-240, 1986- Mahar T. J., Postle R., “Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties, Part IV: Subjective Evaluation of Fabric Handle”, Textile Res. J. 59, 721-733, 1989


Conclusions and proposed approachConclusions and proposed approach

• The topic relating to the Fabric Hand is very complex and at present it is still a subject of research. In particular there is a lack of accepted standards

• The results derived from the preliminary analysis of the SoA show that it is likely that we can give answers to the three fundamental questions, at least in a partial form.

• Due to the complexity of the problem, it is convenient to make some choices about the properties to be simulated in order to concentrate better the research efforts.

• As consequence, it is rational to select the properties that are most relevant to the Fabric Hand.


Possible contributions from SWL and UNEXEPossible contributions from SWL and UNEXE

SWL SWL could help PERCRO in finding relevant papers relating to Fabric Hand:• Direct Definitions of the fabric properties;• Identification of the most relevant properties for determining the Fabric Hand (look for a confirmation that they are softness, stiffness and roughness)• Correlation between properties and objective physical parameters • Detailed description of the gestures the experts use to assess the most relevant properties

UNEXE UNEXE could contribute on the understanding of the perceptual mechanism:• SoA of the knowledge relating to the mechanism underlying the perception of Roughness and Softness

Documents

PERCROScuola Superiore S. Anna1 “Preliminary results of SoA on Fabric Hand” Exeter, September 26 th – 27 th 2005 4 th HAPTEX Meeting PERCRO D4.1: Technical