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Photoshop Evening Notes - 18th November 2009

General Tips for working in Photoshop 1. Opening a new Image in Photoshop -

If you have used JPEG to capture your images the first step must be to SAVE this to either PSD or TIFF format before you make any changes are made in your software programme. This action protects your original image file from being lost or corrupted as unlike RAW capture you do not have a ‘Digital Negative’ to go back to. Both these formats are ‘Lossless’ this means that however many times you open/close the image no Pixels will be damaged – this is NOT the case with JPEG images. If you have used RAW for capture then these will automatically have been converted into PSD or TIFF by your RAW converter.

PSD is PhotoShop’s own native format – I prefer PSD as it is so easy to select - see above. To Save your file in PSD form go to FILE – SAVE AS (Ctrl + Shift + S) – click on the ‘Format’ Drop down box and Select PSD – the first option on the list. The other important feature of PSD is that you can save all your LAYERS that you use in future actions. 2. Layers – To get the best out of any Photo Editing Software it really is important that you master working with Layers. I like to work with both the ‘Layers Palette’ and the History Palette showing on the screen – the two can easily be ‘locked’ together. This makes it very easy to see what you are doing with the different layers and easy to undo anything that you are not happy about.

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When an image is opened in Photoshop it is automatically called the ‘Background’ Layer, you can then add various kinds of new layers above this first background layer. These new layers can be a copy of the Background, a new image, a completely transparent layer, contain Type and be an Adjustment layer. All the new Layers ‘sit above’ the Background layer, they can be worked on independently but their overall effect is cumulative on the Background layer. What makes Layers so useful is that not only can each layer can be worked on or ‘thrown away’ independently but they can be SAVED in this layered form which is why it is important to use PSD or TIFF formats. The Layers Palette –

There are several Icons that need to be learnt on the Layers Palette – 1. The EYE in the Left column switches that particular Layer ‘On & Off’ 2. At the Bottom of the Layers Palette in Photoshop and at the top in some versions of Elements

are Icons that allow you to make specific actions. Shown from Right to Left they do the following – a) Put a Layer in the waste bin –click and drag the layer over the Waste bin Icon b) Create a new Layer by clicking on this Icon and a new BLANK layer is created c) Create a New ADJUSTMENT Layer – this is a very important action, examples of how to use this follow.

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3. Adjustment Layers - The reason that this type of Layer is so important is because they are totally ‘Non – destructive’ and if the Layers are saved you can go back to them at any time. They sit above the Background layer, they make changes to the Background layer but they do NOT physically alter any of the pixels in the Background layer – so no harm is done however many times you change your mind about things! It is possible to have many adjustment layers stacked up above the Background layer each one doing something different – e.g. first Levels then Hue/Saturation and then Colour Balance.

1. When you click on the Icon that looks like a Circle that is half black and half white,

a drop-down box appears asking you to select what type of adjustment you want to make.

2. Levels will be the most frequent choice – with an underexposed image such as this

you will need to move the White arrow head to the Left and possibly also the Grey mid-tone slider also to the Left. Click OK.

Adjustment layers will be used several times throughout these notes performing different actions so it important to get used to using them.

TIPS -

When working with Layers it is a good idea to get into the habit of Naming the Layer with the changes you are going to make on that layer. It is always necessary to check that you have the correct layer active – the one highlighted – solid grey colour - is the active Layer – before you start making changes. With the MOVE tool active there is an ‘Auto Select Layer’ box – top left on its tool bar – this is very useful as by just touching the image its layer will automatically be selected.

NB: The safe way is to ALWAYS Duplicate your Background Layer Before you start making ANY changes – better to be safe than sorry!

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Improving the Contrast in an Image A - Techniques for Large Areas. a. Using the Gradient Tool This is very useful for bringing detail back into areas that stretch right across an image such as when the sky is too light or the foreground too dark, they can also be used diagonally.

1. Open a Levels Adjustment Layer by clicking on 3rd Icon from the Right at the bottom of the Layers Palette (top in Elements) and Selecting LEVELS. To darken move the Grey or the Black Arrowhead to the RIGHT – don’t worry about the rest of the image going too dark just look at the sky area.

2. To lighten move the Grey or White arrowheads to the LEFT.

3. Select the Gradient Tool -shortcut G - from the Toolbox – In Photoshop this might be

hidden under the Paint Bucket icon so Right click to show the Gradient symbol and select this.

4. Next in Photoshop check that the Foreground Colour is BLACK.

NB: In Elements it might be that the Foreground Colour needs to be WHITE. For this to work so please CHECK

5. Now on your image draw a line with the Gradient tool over the area you want to

change. This will be from either the Bottom for Foreground adjustment or from the Top for Sky changes.

6. Looking at the change made if you feel it is too strong this can be reduced by using the

Opacity slider – top Right on the Layers Palette – reducing it from 100% to whatever you feel is best.

TIP - When you want to change the Opacity amounts – both on the Toolbar and the Layers Palette just place the cursor over the word ‘Opacity’ and a Hand symbol with arrows appears, then with the mouse just move to the Right or Left to Increase or Decrease the amount.

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b. Using the Lasso Tool This method is best for adjusting irregular shaped areas in any part of an image. As you are not using an Adjustment Layer for this method you need to COPY the Background layer and work on this layer.

1. Make a copy of the Background Layer – Right click the BG layer – Duplicate layer or shortcut Ctrl + J

2. Select the Lasso tool (L) from the tool box and make a Selection of the area you want to

adjust. Feather this selection – go to SELECT – Feather – 50/70 pixels for a large area or lower number for smaller area. – OK

3. Now chose which method to use to adjust the selection – In PhotoShop go to IMAGE – Adjustments- Levels or Shadow Highlights usually work well. In Elements go to ‘Adjust Lighting’ to find Levels and Shadow Highlights. As you move the sliders to either lighten or darken you can see the change directly on the image. click OK

4. Deselect (Ctrl + D) and now decide if the alteration works – again if it is too strong reduce

the Opacity of the layer as before.

5. Several selection changes can be made on the same layer, but if you reduce the opacity for one selection that opacity will apply to ALL on that layer.

TIP - when working on an image it is useful as you work to keep ‘Saving’ - shortcut CTRL + S - this can be a ‘Lifesaver’ if disaster strikes and your computer crashes – this way not all of your work will be lost!

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Improving the Contrast in an Image - continued B. Techniques for Smaller Areas or Non Destructive Dodging and Burning - NB: the Dodge & Burn Tools in the Photoshop tool box are destructive in their action so are only used for very small, minor changes. The first of the two methods shown can be used in both Photoshop and Elements but the second one only works in the full version of Photoshop. NB: It is advisable to make any larger area adjustments you want using methods described under the headings ‘Using the Gradient Tool’ or Using the Lasso methods before attempting more localised changes described below. a. Using the Paintbrush Tool - shortcut (B)

NB: To change the Foreground colour from White to Black Press the X key – to reset these colours to Black/White Press the D key. Different areas of the image will need different Opacity settings.

Dodging - making an area Lighter

1 With the Background copy Layer active go to LAYER – NEW Layer or shortcut Shift + Ctrl + N 2 In the dropdown box Name the Layer Dodging, change the MODE to OVERLAY and click on the box ‘fill with Overlay Neutral colour. Click OK . 3 Next go to the toolbox and set the Foreground colour to WHITE

Now chose the Brush tool and select a Soft Brush – the brush size depends on the area to be changed. – use the LEFT and RIGHT Bracket keys (next to the P key) to change size of the Brush but start at 80pixels and then change as necessary. Set the Opacity on the toolbar to about 25% as a starting point. Different areas of the image will need different Opacity settings. 4 Paint over the areas that you want to lighten – if you are unhappy with the result ‘undo’ the

action by going to the History Palette. NB: When this is working you will notice in the Icon on the ‘Burn layer’ grey areas appearing where you have darkened and on the ‘Dodge layer’ white areas from the lightening.

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Burning - making an area Darker 1. With the Background copy Layer active Go to LAYER – NEW – Layer

or shortcut - Shift + Ctrl + N 2. In the dropdown box Name the Layer Burning, change the MODE to MULTIPLY and click on

the box ‘fill with Multiply Neutral colour. Click OK.

3. Next go to the Toolbox and set the Foreground colour to BLACK

Chose the Brush tool and select a Soft Brush – the brush size depends on the area to be changed but start at 80pixels and then change as necessary. – use the LEFT and RIGHT Bracket keys (next to the P key) to change size of the Brush. Set the Opacity on the toolbar to about 12% as a starting point. Different areas of the image will need different Opacity settings. Be careful as Burning gives a much stronger result than Dodging so start with a lower Opacity

4. Paint over the areas that you want to Darken – if you are unhappy with the result ‘undo’ the

action by going to the History Palette. 5. It is possible to work with both the Dodge and Burn Layers visible on the Layers Palette at the

same time – NB: you do have to remember switch the foreground colours between black & white as you switch between Dodge and Burn.

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b. In Photoshop using the History Brush – shortcut Y- this method is

particularly good for Mono images. NB: Again make any larger area adjustments you want using Adjustment Layers before starting on these more localised changes. 1. Duplicate the Background Layer of the image – Rt.Click – Duplicate – rename Dodge &

Burn. 2. Make sure the History Palette is open on your Desktop. With the ‘Dodge & Burn’ layer

active switch to the History palette and at the bottom click on the Camera icon to ‘Create a new Snapshot’. Rename it Dodge & Burn and highlight this snapshot so it is the ‘Active Layer’ – it is immediately below the Title of your image at the top of the Palette.

3. Select the History Brush from the Toolbox – shortcut Y On the History Brush Toolbar under MODE choose SCREEN to Dodge/Lighten the image and then chose MULTIPLY when you want to Darken. You can switch between these modes as often as you like. If you want to ‘undo’ a brush stroke go to the History Palette and click on the history state you want to revert to – this removes the mistakes.

4. Using the History Brush you will need to change the Opacity between Dodging and

Burning. For Dodging start around 40% and for Burning begin around 15%. These strengths will vary from image to image depending on the size of the image as well as how deep the shadows are.

5. While you are dodging & burning if you switch to another tool the ‘history state’ is

changed so to restart dodging & burning you will have to click on the Camera icon again to open a new History state.

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Method for Replacing a boring Sky

1. Open the original image where you want a new sky and also the new interesting sky

image – make sure they are of similar dimensions. 2. With the Original image active, select the Magic Wand from the Toolbox – or press W

and click on the boring sky – hold down the Shift key and keep clicking until all the sky is selected.

3. Then with the New Sky image active go to ‘Select All’ or CTRL + A and then press

CTRL + C to copy this image to the memory.

4. Go back to the original image - the sky area is still selected – then go to ‘EDIT – Paste into’ – you can now see the new sky moving into the original image.

5. Adjust the position of the new sky until you get the best bit showing press the SHIFT Key to fix sky in this position. Press ‘Select – Deselect’ or CTRL + D.

6. If the new sky is a little bright adjust the Opacity for this layer on the Layers Palette.

To even the tones through this new image open a Levels Adjustment Layer on the Layers Palette and move the sliders.

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Blurring Backgrounds

This technique is useful when you need to reduce distracting backgrounds – such as with Portraits or Street Photography.

1. Duplicate the Background Layer by choosing LAYER – duplicate and work on this layer.

2. Select the Lasso Tool (L) from the Toolbox. Make a rough but quite close

selection around the subject you wish to keep sharp. Feather this selection – SELECTION – Feather – about 40pixels – OK. This will give a smooth transition between the blurred and sharp areas.

3. With the Selection active go to FILTER – Blur – Gaussian Blur – try 6-7pixels

don’t over do the blurring.

4. With the Selection still active bring up the Levels dialogue box – Ctrl + L or IMAGE – Adjustment – Levels in Photoshop. And move the grey midtone slider to the Right to Darken the blurred background.

5. Deselect – Ctrl +D. Now to darken / Burn the bright areas in the background that

are still obtrusive. Go to LAYER – New Layer or Shift + Ctrl +N – Mode MULTIPLY – tick box to Fill Multiply Neutral colour.

6. With a soft brush and the Foreground colour set to BLACK work on the bright

areas.

If you wish you can reduce the Colour Saturation of the Background or even convert it to monochrome – do this after applying the Blur when the selection is still active.

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Framing an image A. Simple narrow line A thin narrow line round the image can be very effective. This is especially true for projected images where a fine white line nicely separates the image from the black background.

1. Go to SELECT – All (Ctrl + A) 2. Next got to EDIT – Stroke for Width chose 2pixels for a 1024 x 768 image. For a larger

image chose more pixels.

3. Click on Colour and select White.

4. Location – chose Centre and OK

5. Deselect – then by pressing the F key twice you will see the white line round the image on a

black background. Press the F key again to return to the normal screen. B. Gallery Frame This is particularly suitable for prints that are going to be ‘Flat mounted’ rather than window mounted. 1. Duplicate the Background layer 2. Select the Original Background and Go to IMAGE – Canvas Size.

3. As you want to enlarge the canvas all the way around the image, leave the white box in the

centre square. Extend the width and height by 2cm.

4. Now make the Background copy the active layer – we need to select the image on this layer that is now smaller. ( If you turn off the Background layer and you can see a transparent area surrounding the image).

5. To select just the image on this layer click on the Image Icon on the copy layer at the

same time holding down the Control Key. Control Click

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6. Go to EDIT – Stroke – Size 3 Pixels, Location – Centre, Colour chose a darkish grey – OK 7. Go to LAYER – Merge Down (Control E)

8. From the toolbox select the Rectangular Marquee tool – M now draw a line around the

image at the distance you chose. This line can be moved by selecting the Move Tool (V) that is either next to the Marquee tool or just above it in the toolbox.

9. With the new Selection in place go back to EDIT - Stroke and chose the same settings as

before – these are still showing in the window.

10. Deselect and see the two grey frame lines in place – you can either crop some of the white away or leave as it will not show during printing.

Judy Knights November 2009