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Physics of Rock ClimbingOpen Questions
Dave CusterES.255
Feb 21, 2006
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 2
Overview
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 3
Safety
• Component approach• System approach • Social/Organization approach• Personal approach• SP.255 approach
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 4
Question Beggars
• Accidents:• Innovation: The equipment gets “better”• Demographics: Age, latitude…• Behavior: How people climb • Related sports & occupations:• Marketing:• Litigation:• Standards & Standardization:
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 5
The Answer Mill
• Modeling• Experiment• Simmering
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 6
Modeling
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 7
Classification of Qs
• System components• Systems & interactions• Use & habits
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 8
System Components• Ice axes—multiple uses perhaps deserve multiple standards• EAS—standards & education• Ropes—waterproofing, middle marker, sharp edge resistance, &
abrasion resistance• Aid Hooks—strength standard• Belay/rappel devices—standards, usage, & performance measures• Cams—new axel configuration analysis• Ice screws—build a better ice screw & testing/standardization• Bolts—warm, wet, & salty + sustainability• Pads—use & standards• Crampons—snow ball effect• Nuts• Slings & draws• Harnesses
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 9
Systems and Interactions
• Crampon + boot• Rappel/belay device + rope (+user)• Carabiner + rope (frequency, radius of
curvature, standards, education)• Rappel/belay device + heat• Via ferrata• Artificial climbing walls
Feb 21, 2006 SP.255 Open Questions Talk 10
System Example: Via Ferrata
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 11
VF Outcomes
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 12
Use and Habits
• Official line vs. actual use (e.g. grigri)• Belay methods• Bouldering pads• Lead climbing decision making
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 13
Use & Habits Examples
• DAV work on– Gym belaying– Avalanche awareness– Falling over
Feb 21, 2006 ES.255 Open Questions Talk 14
The Shape of Answers
• Curriculum• Standards• Better equipment• Better habits and equipment use• Information
MIT OpenCourseWarehttp://ocw.mit.edu
ES.255 Physics of Rock ClimbingSpring 2006
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