Upload
robert-bickell
View
224
Download
2
Tags:
Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
All the Good Things in Philadelphia... Restaurants The Arts Events Travel People
Citation preview
PRIME CONCIERGE
February, 2014
“There are no standards of taste in
wine, cigars, poetry, prose, etc. Each
man's own taste is the standard, and a
majority vote cannot decide for him or
in any slightest degree affect the
supremacy of his own standard.”
… Mark Twain
The Restaurant Report by Bob Bickell
Chef Justin Bogle at Avance; Han Dynasty in
New York; Jon Taffer and the Bar Rescue
response; Lacroix at the Rittenhouse; Le
Virtu; Serpico; Zahav; and Vedge.
The “BAR RESCUE” Man Listens…
“95% of the public has no clue regarding the
subject of wine”…. January Issue, 2014
A (January)
comment from
Phillip Silverstone
(a serious wine-guy
who doesn’t take
his wine all that
seriously).
“I read your interview with Jon Toffer of Bar
Rescue. He suggested that 95% of the public
has no idea when it comes to the subject of
wine. He might be right, but I say so what?
What is the percentage of people who really
understand what chefs do? Must you be a
connoisseur of food to actually understand
what’s on your plate? I don’t think you have
to be an expert to enjoy food or wine. I
believe it’s more important to just enjoy the
experience, and leave the real details to the
experts (the other five percent).”
A reader response…
“I have to disagree. Do not underestimate the sophistication of the modern eater and drinker. These days foodies and eaters in general are interested in the mechanics of cooking.
Otherwise I am not sure how we can account for the cult of the TV chef and the vast sales of cook books. Demystification of the art of the chef- to quote the Naked one - has been crucial to the rise of the discerning diner and the home cooking revolution. Same with wine - not so much the mechanics of making it, but the understanding of the history and the wine & food matching”.
Alan Alphonso Harding
And more from New York…
Chef Christopher Daly:
Everyone can benefit by educating themselves
about great values and simple wines of
excellent origin, and there are plenty out
there. American wine has never been better...
The best way to restart the educational part is
getting back to basics, asking lots of questions
and drinking lots of wines.
I always recommend Kevin Zraly’s “Windows
on the World Wine” course as the ultimate
refresher which will cover the back to basic
education about even the down to earth
“quaffing” wines which I would employ with
most simple dinners I cook for myself and for
company.
Many a time I cooked dinner for Kevin’s wine
classes when I was Executive Chef at The
Edwardian Room at The Plaza and I can tell
you I have met few people with his knowledge
that can create such a down-to-earth passage
into the world of wine, and his book is an easy
read.
Wine is my favorite pairing with most food,
and I have written many lists to pair with my
cooking in a few different restaurants here.
Not too long ago (at Bellew Restaurant) I
wrote a list that received extremely favorable
nods from The New York Times, Wine
Spectator and a few other reviewers.
The accolades were based on the composition,
but more important was the New York Times
mention of the fairness of pricing.
I have always said you cannot eat percentages
which means if you mark-up a wine by 2.5 to 3
times which is standard in a restaurant, selling
5 cases of that wine is much better on every
front than marking it up by 5 times and selling
1 bottle.
Great juice and great verticals are terrific to
have on one hand, but my philosophy has
always been that even great wine is meant to
be drunk, not placed on high and celebrated.
If you are buying on price alone let’s hope
there are some great choices, and when I
wrote the aforementioned list, over one-third
were under $35 Dollars.
A very simple down-to-earth bottle,
reasonably priced can do just as nicely as a
Ridge Zinfandel, Howell Mountain - 1988.
Han Dynasty
Pete Wells is the current restaurant critic of
the New York Times. He bashed the
Manhattan branch of Philadelphia’s Han
Dynasty. I have Han Dynasty on my
“Recommended Philadelphia Restaurant List”
so I must respond to his disappointing review.
I’m not a fan of the New York Times, and I can
do without the opinion of Mr. Wells.
My argument in this case is quite simple. If a
restaurant is doing as much business as Han
Dynasty in New York, should we conclude that
all these people have to re-think their dining
experience? Mr. Wells has now educated all
these fans of Hans Dynasty, and obviously the
many fans are badly mistaken. The food was
not as good as you thought it was. The great
experience that keeps you coming back has
come to end. Mr. Wells has spoken, and I
must immediately remove the restaurant in
question from my recommended list.
It reminds me of an Inquirer review of a very
popular Cuban concept in Old City. The critic
had to wait in line to enter the restaurant.
The review was similar to that of the New York
Times. All those people were having too much
fun to realize the food was not as good as they
thought it was. Give me a break.
Chef Justin Bogle – Avance
I recently met with Justin and I was impressed
with the look of the restaurant and the chef
himself. The man was extremely successful in
New York, and he looks and sounds like the
perfect choice to make this spot a significant
winner. The timing of their opening (December, 13th)
with the ongoing miserable January weather
might explain a relatively slow start.
It’s interesting to note that several chefs have
recently discovered great success in our area,
and in so doing, Philadelphia has become an
infinitely better restaurant destination.
New spots such as Serpico; Vernick; The
Farmer and the Fisherman; Noord, Will Byob;
Fond and Laurel were all pleasant surprises.
They hit the ground running, and they were all
outstanding on a rather immediate basis.
Avance made a very different introduction.
For months, it was the restaurant that would
occupy the spot of a Philadelphia legend. It
was a big project to make it very different
than the former Le Bec-Fin, and for good or for
bad, Chef Perrier still owns the building, and
his former partner (Chris Scarduzio) is part of
the new management team.
The expectations are off the chart, and it will
take some time to establish itself as a truly
successful restaurant. I have always believed
the key to success in this business is the man
(or woman) in the kitchen. With this in mind,
I’m betting on Avance, but more importantly,
my real bet is on Chef Justin Bogle.
Lacroix at the Rittenhouse
A vital part of the Philadelphia upscale
restaurant scene located in the prestigious
Rittenhouse Hotel on beautiful Rittenhouse
Square. Experience their progressive
international cuisine from the young and
talented Chef Jon Cichon.
210 West Rittenhouse Square
Chef Joe Cicala – Le Virtù
Chef Cicala spent time in Washington, DC and
cooked at the highly respected Del Posto in
New York City. Even before his arrival in
Philadelphia Le Virtù was an outstanding
restaurant, but one could easily suggest that
he made it even better.
1927 East Passyunk Avenue
Chef Peter Serpico – Serpico…
The man from Momofuko in New York
teamed-up with Stephen Starr and this dinner
only spot on South Street has become a local
favorite. The good chef is a James Beard
Award winner, and the big winner is South
Street. Could it possibly become another
“Hippist Street in town? (the Orlons)
604 South Street
Zahav…Chef Michael
Solomonov
One of Philadelphia’s most talented chefs does
everything from incredible Israeli cuisine to
chicken and donuts. Zahav is a serious concept
that has become one of the best (and most
interesting) restaurants in Philadelphia.
237 St. James Place
Vedge - Chef Rich Landau and
wife, Chef Kate Jacoby…
They did what was
thought to be the
impossible…
they found the way
to make vegan food
delicious. They also
moved into a classic
spot that was once the home of Fritz Blanc and
Deux Cheminees. With more seats and more
visibility, they brought Vedge into the national
restaurant scene. It’s a great story, and Vedge
has become a Philadelphia favorite with
outstanding food, and even a great bar and
cocktail lounge.
1221 Locust Street
From the folks at BIGBITE Philly…
A Prosciutto di Parma Tasting & Craft Beer Pairing Event Brought to you by:
ONE chef will be crowned Philly’s King of Parma by an esteemed panel of judges while guests have the chance to win dinner for two at the winning chef’s restaurant by voting over social media. The chef who wins by popular vote will walk away with a leg of Prosciutto di Parma!
Next page:
View the
Participating
Chefs…
Joe Cicala, Le Virtu paired with Peroni Brewery.
Mike Deganis, Osteria paired with Ama (Amarcord) Brewery.
Luke Palladino, Luke Palladino Hospitality Group paired with Flying Fish Brewery.
Mike Santoro, The Mildred paired with Yards Brewery.
Jeremy Nolen, Brauhaus Schmitz paired with Ommegang Brewery.
David Ansill, Bar Ferdinand paired with Stoudt Brewery.
Doug Allen, Lacroix paired with Brooklyn Brewery.
Mike Sultan, Street Food Philly paired with Otter Creek Brewery.
Cured & Crafted – Thursday, February 20, 2014 Power Plant Productions - 230 N. 2nd Street 6:30 – 9:00 pm
Everything you have to know … http://bigbiteblog.wordpress.com/2950-2/
Barbara’s
Kitchen…
Home
Cooking at
its best!
The lady can flat-out cook. She could
have been a notable restaurant chef,
but that was not to be. She cooks for
her family and friends, and she shares
her favorite recipes with us. It’s a
beautiful thing!
PEPPERY PENNE (Serves 4-6)
1 lb. Penne Pasta & 1½ lb. ground pork.
2 tbs olive oil (I prefer extra virgin).
8 oz jar of mushrooms sliced & drained.
7 cloves of garlic minced.
5 scallions, white & green separated
and sliced.
24 ounces of sauce (I use Classico-
tomato & basil). 1 tbs crushed red
pepper.
Salt & black pepper to taste
¼ cup flat leaf parsley chopped
¼ cup grated parmesans cheese (plus
more for serving)
DIRECTIONS…
Cook pasta as directed on package.
(Reserve 1 cup of water and set aside)
In a large skillet heat the oil and add
pork, red pepper and salt & pepper.
Cook at high heat until pork is no longer
pink (About 5 minutes) then add the
mushrooms, garlic and white scallions
and cook until softened (3 minutes).
Lower heat to medium and add the
sauce and reserved water.
Simmer 10 minutes.
Pour over pasta and add parsley, green
scallions, and cheese. Toss & Serve with
extra cheese, and ENJOY!
RECIPE: Asparagus with
Wasabi Mayonnaise
Dip…
(From the kitchen of
Chef Sanford)…
3 pounds thin to medium asparagus trimmed…
1 cup Mayonnaise…
4 teaspoons soy sauce…
1 ½ teaspoons sugar…
2 tea-spoons wasabi paste…
Blanch asparagus in 2 batches of boiling
salted water. Mix remaining ingredients
together and serve.
“A man wrapped up in himself
makes a very small bundle”
…the New and Young Ben Franklin
www.BenFranklintoday.com
Valentine's Day at the Museum
Love is in the air. Enjoy the Celebration’ on February 9th.
Stephen Starr chef demonstration 'Food as an Artistic Aphrodisiac' on February
12th.
Valentine's Day Dinner at Granite Hill restaurant, or grooving to soul music at
our Art After 5 Love Lounge on February 14th.
PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM of ART
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is among
the largest art museums in the United
States. It has collections of more than
227,000 objects that include "world-class
holdings of European and American
paintings, prints, drawings, and decorative
arts.
www.philamuseum.org
Prime Travel – It’s even more fun than
Bungee Jumping!
PRIME TRAVEL –
The Phillies in Clearwater
Each and every year tons of Philadelphia
baseball fans travel to Florida for their favorite
part of the baseball season – spring training.
They watch a lot of baseball, and they party in
the local bars and restaurants. Most of it
happens in March, but one of the big
challenges is reserving a room as March is the
busiest month in the Clearwater area.
Having spent a great deal of time in Tampa, I
witnessed the Philadelphia people do their annual
thing. Actually, I have experienced the fun of
spring training myself and basically it’s a party that
never seems to stop.
Keep in mind that the Tampa area is also the
spring training home of the New York Yankees and
the Toronto Blue Jays, so there is a lot to consider.
In terms of the experience, everyone can google
the hotels, bars and restaurants, and the neat
places to go. I have my favorites, but keep in mind
that Clearwater has incredible beaches, and there
are lots of hotels within a few steps of the beach.
The names are all there… Hyatt, Hilton, Sheraton,
Holiday Inn, etc., etc. If you can’t secure a room,
my suggestion is a drive to downtown Tampa
where there are a bevy of places to stay.
When I think of Tampa restaurants, there are two
incredible concepts that you want to experience if
restaurants are deemed important in your life.
Bern’s Steakhouse
It’s a classic steakhouse where the food is
secondary to the experience. The people come
here from all over the world, and they will give
you a tour of one of the busiest kitchens in
America and a wine cellar that includes over
500,000 bottles. This is not a 25-seat BYOB.
This is a place where they serve desserts
upstairs in the dessert room.
They opened in 1956 and never looked back.
How about fresh vegetables from the Bern’s
Farm, and how about 21 choices of caviar.
And how about this line from their menu…
“We want you to know that we cut our steaks
to give you good eating, not necessarily good
looking. If you tour our kitchen, you'll see why
we buy 3-4 pounds of beef in order to give you
one pound of steak.”
I would also suggest that a dinner here is not
under the category of inexpensive, but at least
you can say that you’ve been there.
The Columbia Restaurant
This is very possibly the most unique restaurant in
America (the largest Spanish restaurant in the
world). We are talking about 52,000 Square feet
with 15 dining rooms and 1700 seats that takes up
an entire block in Ebor City in Tampa. Spend at
least one night in Ebor City. It’s not to be confused
with Disney, but Ebor City is something to
experience. You will find great bars and
restaurants with a feeling of “authenticity” that
cannot be replicated.
It’s a place of the 1800’s when Cuban immigrants
found their way into the cigar business and not too
much has changed. The Columbia Restaurant
opened in 1905 and the beautiful Outdoor Patio
was added in 1937.
The King’s Room…
The Don Quixote Room
The Bar
This is a restaurant you have to see to believe that
a concept of this magnitude can actually make it in
the modern restaurant world.
The Sancho Dining Room
Quiz... 10 Questions. You should get all ten! 1. Johnny's mother had three children. The first child was named April. The second child was named May. What was the third child's name? 2. There is a clerk at the butcher shop. He is five feet ten inches tall and he wears size 13 sneakers. What does he weigh? 3. Before Mt. Everest was discovered, what was the highest mountain in the world? 4. How much dirt is there in a hole that measures two feet by three feet by four feet? 5. What word in the English language is always spelled incorrectly? 6. Billy was born on December 28th, yet his birthday is always in the summer. How is this possible?
7. In California, you cannot take a picture of a man with a wooden leg. Why not? 8. What was the President's name in 1975? 9. If you were running a race, and you passed the person in 2nd place, what place would you be in now? 10. Which is correct to say, "The yolk of the eggs are white" or "The yolk of the egg is white"? The Answers – Next Two Pages… Johnny’s mother had three children. The first child was named April. The second child was named May. What was the third child’s name? Answer: Johnny of course
The clerk at the butcher shop is 5 feet 10 inches tall, and he wears size 13 sneakers. What does he weigh? Answer – Meat! Before Mt. Everest was discovered, what was the highest mountain in the world? Answer: Mt. Everest; it just wasn’t discovered yet. How much dirt is there in a hole that measures two feet by three feet by four feet? Answer: There is no dirt in a hole. What word in the English language is always spelled incorrectly? Answer: Incorrectly! Billy was born on December 28th, yet his birthday is always in the summer. How is this possible? Answer: Billy lives in the Southern Hemisphere. In California, you cannot take a picture of a man with a wooden leg. Why not? Answer: You can't take pictures with a wooden leg. You need a camera to take pictures.
What was the President's name in 1975? Answer: Same as is it now - Barack Obama If you were running a race, and you passed the person in 2nd place, what place would you be in now? Answer: You would be in 2nd. Well, you passed the person in second place, not first. Which is correct to say, "The yolks of the egg are white" or "The yolk of the egg is white"? Answer: Neither, the yolk of the egg is yellow [Duh!]
Did anyone get all Ten? Did anyone get at least Five? Did anyone miss them all? Don’t worry about it, we’re just having fun!
Who in the world does
your hair?
Seaside/Photo Taken by Doug Cox