Rambles in New Zealand

7/29/2019 Rambles in New Zealand

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RamblesinNewZealand(1841)byJohnCarneBidwill

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RAMBLES

IN

NEWZEALAND.

BYJOHNCARNEBIDWILL,

(LATEOFEXETER,)

SIDNEY,NEWSOUTHWALES.

LONDON:

PUBLISHEDBYW.S.ORR&CO.,PATERNOSTERROW:

ANDJ.FITZE,EXETER.

MDCCCXLI.

(Price2s.6d.)

LONDON:BRADBURYANDEVANS,PRINTERS,WHITEFRIARS.

RamblesinNewZealandp10.jpg

TO

THERIGHTHONOURABLE

THEEARLOFDEVON.

ToyourLordship,asGovernorofthePlymouthNewZealandCompany,Ibegmostre

spectfullytoinscribethefollowingpages,notwithanyideathattheywillconferhonouronyourLordship,butthatyourLordship'spublicandprivatecharactermayobtainforthemafavourableintroduction.IventuretobelievetheywilladdsomethingtothelittlestockofinformationrespectingtherisingandimportantColonyofNewZealand,andonthisgroundalone,Itrust,benotunworthyofyourLordship'snotice.

Ihavethehonourtosubscribemyself,mostrespectfully,

YourLordship's



MostobedientandveryhumbleServant,

JOHNC.BIDWILL.

June,1841.

PREFACE.

Itisaverycommonpracticeamongbook-makersofthepresentday,toentertaintheirreaderswithapreface,settingforthwithcoquettishdiffidence,notthemerits,butthedemeritsoftheirproductions.Iftheybelievedtheirownprofessions,andtheirdiffidencewereanythingbutfeigned,itisobvioustheywouldneverhaveenteredthelistofauthors,and

"donetheirbestTomakeasmuchwaste-paperastherest."

Itisnotmyintentiontofollowtheirexample;butinordertosecuremyreadersasmuchaspossibleagainstthechancesofdisappointment,Iatonceassurethemmostfrankly,thatthefollowingpageshavenopretensiontoliteraryfame,butwerehastilythrowntogetherduringmyrambles,andhavesincebeendeprived(bymyarduousoccupationasamerchantinSidney)ofwhateverimprovementacar

efulrevisionmighthaveenabledmetoeffect.

TheonlyclaimthereforeIhaveontheattentionofmyreaders,isfoundedonadesiretoaddsomethingtothelittlestockofinformationrespectingNewZealand,which,amidstthegeneralinterestemigrationhasexcitedinEngland,obtainsnoordinaryshareofconsideration.Divestedoftheusualtraveller'slicence,fidelityinnarrativeandattentiveobservationmaysafelybedependedon:andIhavesomeconfidence,havingwanderedfartherinthiscolonythananyotherEuropeanwhohascommunicatedhisinformationtothepublic,thatnoonewillrisefromtheperusalofthispamphletdissatisfiedwiththetriflingamountofmoneyandtimeitmayhavecosthim.

J.C.BIDWILL.

Sidney,August25th,1840.

RAMBLES

IN

NEWZEALAND.

IarrivedatSydneyinSeptember1838,andsoonreceivedthefirstofthoseusefullessonswhichdisappointmentteaches.Ialludetothesystemobservedinthesaleofcrownlands,which,insteadofbeingsurveyedandreadyforauction,sothattheemigrantmaycommenceoperationswithundiminishedcapital,compelshimtowastemonthsinidlenessandexpenseilladaptedtothecultivationandadvancementofanewcolony.AsthespotIhadselectedwasataconsiderabledistancefromSydney,andthetimetobewastedbetweentheapplicationandsaleproportionatelylong,Ideterminedtorenderitaslittleirksomeandunprofitableaspossiblebyramblinginsearchofinformation.



WiththisviewIembarkedinoneofthesmallschoonerswhichareconstantlytradingbetweenSydneyandtheBayofIslands;madethenorth-westcapeofNewZealandonthe4thofFebruary,1839,andthenextdayarrivedinthebay.Thewholecoastappearedverybarren,havingnoothervegetationthanbushesandfern;itismuchbroken,andofadark-colouredvolcanicrock;insomeplacestheearthonthesurfaceisofabrightyelloworred,andapparentlyofanochreousnature.TheBayofIslands,aplaceoflatebecomesofamiliarinEnglandfromvariouscauses,butchieflyfromthepanoramaofitexhibitedinLondon[1],iscertainlyaveryprettyplace,butinmyopinionnomore:itis,likeSydney,orratherPortJackson,entirelydeficientofback-ground,soessentialtothepicturesque.Thepanoramaisexceedinglyliketheplace,withtheexceptionthatthehillsaretriflingelevationsinreality,whileinthepaintingtheyappearveryconsiderable;andoneinparticular,anislandtothenorthward,seemsquiteamountain,althoughIdonotsupposeitcanbe700feethigh.Icanonlyaccountfortheartisthavingpaintedthebay,inpreferencetomanyotherfarmorebeautifulandextraordinaryscenestobefoundintheisland,bythesupposition,thatwhenhewasthere,itwasconsideredtobetheonlysafeplaceinthecountry,andthathewaspreventedbytheunfavourablereportsofthepeoplehesawfromtravellingmuchintoit:hadhepaintedsomepartsoftheThames,forinstance,hemighthaveproducedapicturewhich,withoutexaggeration,wouldhaverepresentedsuchacombinationofthegrandandbeautifulinsceneryasisrarelytobefoundinanycountryaclosepieceofwater,aslargeasthebay,thicklystuddedwithislandsofeveryvariety,somemerelyhighbasalticrocks,othersbeautifullowisletscoveredwithtreesandgrass,andalmostsurroundedbybeaches;whileth

esurroundingshoresareeverywherecoveredthicklywithtimber,andthehillspiledovereachotheruntiltheyaresometimeslostintheclouds:inoneplaceparticularly,immediatelybehindtheharbourofWaihaw(Wyhow),therearefourrangesrisingonebehindanother,thehighestofwhichcannotbelessthan4500feet,andcoveredwithwoodtotheverysummit.

Toreturntothebaythecountryaroundishilly,andmaybesaidtobenothingbutasuccessionofgullies,renderingtheuseofwheel-carriagesofanykind(exceptperhapsox-carts)almostimpracticable:thesoilisclay,producedbythedecompositionofthelavasandothervolcanicrocks,ofwhichthewholeofthispartofNewZealandisformed.Itisbadthatistosay,asbadasanysoilcanbeinaclimatesomoistandtemperateasthatofNewZealand.Ihave,itistrue,notwithstanding,seenverygoodvegetablesgrowninthegardens;butasthesegar

densarealwaysinthesmalllevelspotsinthevicinityofthegullies,theirproduceisnocriterionofthegeneralgoodnessofthesoil,assuchspotsreceivethewholerichnessofthesurroundinghills,andforagriculturalpurposeswouldbetotallyunavailablefromtheirsmallsize.Therearebuttwospotsaboutthebaywheretownscouldbebuiltone,thesiteofthevillageofKornarika,notoriousatpresentforcontaining,Ishouldthink,agreaternumberofroguesthananyotherspotofequalsizeintheuniverse,andtheotherontheoppositesideoftheBay,nearthemissionaryestablishment,Paihia(Pyhea).Thefirstofthesehasthebestshelterforshipping,butisentirelycutofffromthesupplyofthecountry,beingsituatedonanalmostinsulatedneckofland,havingthebayinfront,andtheoceanabouthalfamiledistantbehind.Itisbesidessoconfined,thatthepartavailableforbuildingpurposescouldnotcontainmorethanacoupleofthousandinhabitants,eventhoughthestreetswereplannedwiththe

regularityandclosenessofEuropeanstreets,insteadofthestragglingmannerinwhichthoseofanewcountryaregenerallybuilt.Theotherplaceisagoodsituationforatown,havingaconsiderableflatspaceatthemouthofarivernavigableforsmallvesselsforashortdistance;andbeingonthelandsideofthebay,isamorefitemporiumfortheproduceofthecountry,aswellasmoreconvenientformerchandise.Idonotbyanymeansconsiderthebaytheplacewhereasettlementshouldbeformed,asthewholeofthenorthernpartoftheislandisamereneckofland,incomparisonwiththattothesouthwardoftheThames;andnearlythewholeofit,ifnotowned,isatleastclaimedbyEuropeans;whereas,southoftheThamestherehavebeenscarcelyanypurchasers,andtheland,i



nsteadofbeingasuccessionofbarrenhillsandravines,isfullofrichplainsandtable-lands.

Ihaddetermined,ifpossible,topenetratetothosehighmountainsintheinteriorofthenorthislandwhichareshadowedforthonthemapsanddescribedinthebookoftheNewZealandAssociation,and,fortunately,foundasmallschooneroftentonsreadytosailforthesouthwardthedayaftermyarrivalinthebay.Iaccordinglywentonboard,andasourcoursewasclosealong-shoreduringthewholevoyage,Ihadanexcellentopportunityofseeingthecoast,whichisgenerallyexceedinglybeautiful.Thereareagreatmanyislandsscatteredalongthecoast,manyofwhichbearmarksofrecentvolcaniceruptions,thelavaonsomebeingquitefresh;andone(WhiteIsland)isevenatpresentanactivevolcanocontinuallysmoking,andchieflycomposedofsulphurandpumice,Theoutlineofthecoastisexceedinglybroken;generallythecliffsarehigh,butrarelyperpendicular;anduntilafterpassingtheThamesallareofadarkcolour,withoutatraceofstratification.Severalofthehillsaresaidbythenativestohavelakesontheirsummits,probablythecratersofextinctvolcanoes.Anotherthingwhichtheystateis,however,beyondmypowerofbeliefthatoneoftheselakeshasplentyofsalt-waterfishinit,andamongtherestsharks!Ishouldhavelikedverymuchtohaveascendedsomeofthesehills,haditbeenmerelytoseeiftherewerereallyanyfishinthelakes,eitherbelongingtofreshorsaltwater.Itappears,however,thattheveryexistenceoftheselakesisamerematteroftradition,asnoneofthepresentgenerationhaveeverascendedtotheirshores,throughfearofthe"nancras"orimaginarycentipedes,orcrocodiles,(foritdo

esnotappearveryclearlywhichismeantbytheterm,)whichinhabitthebanksofalltheseinaccessiblelakes,andwithwhichevenwholevalleysaresaidtobesoinfestedthatitisimpossibletogetanativetovisitthem.AfterpassingtheThames,thecliffsbecomewhiteandlooklikechalk:theyare,however,ofacompactvolcanicstoneverygoodforbuilding,moreespeciallyatMercuryBay,whereagentlemanwhohasresidedthereforsomeyearshasworkedasufficientquantityofittobuildawharfperhapsthefirstwharfbuiltofhewnstonesinAustralia,thoseinSydneybeingchieflybuiltofwood.MercuryBayisaverygoodharbourforshipsofanysize;butthecountryaroundisverymountainous,andtheriverrunninginattheheadofthebaysosmallastobeonlyfittoturnamill,thepurposetowhichitisabouttobeappliedbythegentlemanwhohaspurchasedthewholecountryinthatneighbourhoodfromthenatives.Ifheevergetsittowork,itwillpaywell,andwillbetheonlyoneworkedbywater-power

inAustralia.Thecowrieorpineofthecountry(Dammaraaustralis)isabundanthere,althoughitisalmostthesouthernlimitofitsgrowth.ThecowrieadherestothegeneralpredilectionIhaveobservedinalltruepinesforbadland;italwaysgrowsonsteepclayeyhills,butdoesnotformentireforestscontainingnoothertree,likethepine-forestsofAmerica.Ihaveindeedseenbutonesmallpatchoflandonwhichthegreaterpartofthetreeswascowrie.Inmostofwhatisherecalled"cowrieland"thetreesareoftenaquarterofamileasunder,andrarelycloserthanahundredyards:itis,inmyopinion,theleastbeautifulofthepinetribe,especiallyinitsyoungstate,whichisingeneralthemostbeautifulageofthepine;infact,untilitgetsthirtyfeethigh,itisabsolutelyugly.Itretainstheappearanceofaregularconiferoustreeuntilitbecomesabouteighteeninchesindiameter,whenitbeginstochange,andafterthatperiodceasestoresembletherestofitstribeintheslightestdegree.Itoft

enresemblesinoutlineanoak,but,fromtheexcessivepaucityofitsfoliage,canneverviewiththattreeinbeauty.IapprehendthereisnottheslightestchanceofitsgrowinginEngland,asitisnotfoundmorethanfortymilessouthoftheThamesinNewZealand.Itwillbeseen,fromwhatIhavesaid,thatpeoplehavebeengreatlydeceivedinEnglandwithregardtothesupplyofcowriespars,&c,tobederivedfromNewZealand:notonlyistheportionofcountryonwhichitgrowsverylimited,butthelabourofgettingthetimberoutoftheforestsisimmense,becauseofthewonderfullyhillynatureofthecountry;andinNewZealandthereisnosnowtoassistthedraggingoftheweight,asinthosecountriesfromwhencethepresentsupplyoftimberischieflyderived.



IhadintendedtostartfromMercuryBayfortheinterior;butwhenIarrivedthere,Ifound,fromtheinformationgivenmebyMr.Brownofthatplace(whoisprobablybetteracquaintedwithNewZealand,andmoreparticularlywiththepeople,thananyotherperson),thatitwouldnotbetheproperplace.IthereforewentontoTawranga,whichisatpresentthelastmission-stationtothesouthward,andfromthenceeventuallystartedonmyvoyageofdiscoveryintotheunknownregionsofNewZealand.Tawrangaisaharbourunfitforlargevessels,butwasduringthetimeoftheflax-tradeaplaceofsomeconsequence,asverylargequantitiesofthatarticlewerecollectedthere.Atpresentnoflaxisgrown,aspigssupplythewantsofthenativeswithinfinitelylesstroubletothemselves.Thecoasthere,andforaconsiderabledistancetothesouthward,islowandlevel,withsandybeaches.Onesideoftheentrancetotheharbourisformedbyacurioushill,orimmenserockofbasalticlavamixedinsomeplaceswithpumice.Itisofaconicalorirregularpyramidalform,andaboutsixhundredfeethigh:standingasitdoesentirelyalone,inthemiddleofagreatextentoflowlevelcoast,itformsaverystrikingobject,whetherviewedfromseaorland.Itwasformerlyaverystrong"Pa"(Pah),anativefortorvillage,forthewordmeanseither.Ishouldobserve,however,thatallthevillagesarefortifiedbyaditchandstockade.Thelandsidesofthehillareterracedfromtoptobottom,andmusthavebeeninhabitedforaverylongperiod,asthegreaterportionofthesoilofwhichtheterracesareformediscomposedofcockleshells.AtpresenttheTawranga(Towrunga)tribeisaverysmallone,andwillmostlikelyintwoorthreeyearsceasetoexist,asatpresentitsonlysupportisthatofanothertri

be,theWaikato,whichisthelargestinthecountry,buttheyareaverybadset.Thistribe(theWaikatos)isatwarwiththeRoturoatribe,whichlatteroccupiesthelandbehindtheTawrangatribeandaportcalledMuckatoo,abouttwentymilestotheeastalongthecoast.TheWaikatoshavenoportontheeasternshores,andhaveforsometimebeentryingtogetpossessionofMuckatoo:theyseizeditoncewhileIwasonmyjourney,butwerebeatenoffagainbytheRoturoapeople.ItappearsprobablethattheywillpickaquarrelwiththeTawrangapeople,asapretextfordispossessingthemoftheirterritory,whichwouldbemoreconvenientforthem,thanMuckatoo,thatplacebeingfurtheroff,andthetribeoneofthemostwarlike,ifnotthemostpowerful,inthecountry.AboutsixweeksbeforeIarrivedatTawranga,asmallpartystartedfromRoturoa,andlyinginwaitnearTawranga,seizedanumberofpeople(abouttwenty,Ibelieve)andcookedthemabsolutelyinsightofthedifferentvillages.Theplacewasjustatth

ebaseofthegreathillIhavespokenof(Manganorie);andwhenIvisitedit,Isawallthenativeovens(coppermowries,accordingtoEnglishpronunciation)inwhichthecookinghadbeenperformed,andaportionoftheentrails,&c.,werestrewedabout.Mycompanioncalledmetoseeaheadwhichwasthenhalfeatenbythedogs;butIhadseenenoughforthatday,anddidnotfollowhim.Thisheadwasremovedbythemissionariesassoonastheyheardofit,andburied;sothatwhenIvisitedtheplaceafterwards,everyvestigeofthelatehorridtragedyhaddisappeared.Therearetwothingswellworthyofnoteinthisoccurrence,asbeingtotallyopposedtoEnglishideasoftheNewZealanders.Thefirstis,thatawholetribeshouldsufferlessthanahundredmentocomeintotheheartoftheircountry,wheretheytheinvadersweresurroundedonallsides,andstaytendaysormore,killingallthestragglerstheycouldfind,andconfiningtherestintheirPas,andevenpaddlingabouttheharbourintheircanoesinthemiddle

oftheday,withoutmakingtheleastshowofresistance;andthesecond,thatthenativeswhoperpetratedthismassacreandcannibalismincoldbloodwerenotawild,untutoredracewhohadneverhadintercoursewithEuropeans,(orifwithEuropeans,withsuchasareadisgracetothecountrieswhencetheyspring,suchasthosebywhomthenativesoftheBayofIslandsandotherplacestothenorthwardhavebeencontaminated),but,onthecontrary,hadenjoyedtheadvantageoftheresidenceofmissionariesamongthemforseveralyears,andthosemissionaries,too,amongstthemostactiveandzealousofanyinNewZealand;indeed,therehavebeenbutfewwhitemenamongthem,withtheexceptionofmissionaries,moreespeciallyforthelasttwoorthreeyears,sincethemurderofthelasttr



aderwholivedthere,whichhaspreventedothersfromsupplyinghisplace.Neitheristhegeneralbraveryandhardihood,orverygreatimprovementinthebodyoftheNewZealanders,somuchtalkedofinEngland,verystrikinglydevelopedintheseproceedings[2].

ThecountryaboutTawrangaforabouttenmilesinlandisalmostaperfectlevelcoveredwithfern;butthelandisnotbad,asitislightandcontainsagoodproportionofundestroyedvegetablematter,whichbecomesapparentwhenitisstirred.Ihaveseenverygoodcloverandgrassgrowinginthegardenofthemission,orImightperhapshavethoughtthelandwasmuchworsethanitis.Itcannotindeedbecalledrich,astheconstantdestructionofthefernbyfireissufficienttoimpoverishanyland;butinthelong-runthelightsoilscoveredwithfernwillbepreferableforagriculturetotheclayeyforest-landswherethecowriegrows,whichareingeneraltheonlylandsthathavehithertobeentheobjectsofpurchasebyEuropeans,ifthetermsbywhichtheyclaimthemcanbecalledpurchases,orifindeedthenativeshaveanyrealideaofsellingtheirlands,whichatpresentIdoubt.

ThereisgoingonatTawrangaaformationofcoalwhichisverycurious.Itisinsomeplacesaboutafootthick,andalthoughquiterecent,andcontainingnothingbuttheleaves,&c.ofthelivingplantsofthecountry,itisregularlyseparatedbylayersofsoftearthofjustthecolourandappearancewhichtheclayeystrataofthecoal-measurespresent,althoughentirelyformedofpartiallydecomposedpumice,whichisalsothebasisoftheentiresoilofthispartofthei

sland,becomingveryapparentwhenthenatives,byconstantplantingofsweetpotatoes,&c.nearthevillages,haveexhaustedallthevegetablepartofthesoil.

Theinfluenza,whichhadjustvisitedNewZealand,hadhardlyleftTawranga;andinconsequenceofthegeneralsickness,joinedtothewarbetweenthetwoplaces,IhadgreatdifficultyingettinganynativestogowithmefromTawrangatoRoturoa.Ishouldhavebeenentirelystoppedhaditnotbeenforthegreatkindnessofthemissionaries,whopersuadedsomeoftheladsattachedtotheirestablishmenttogowithme.Tooneofthesegentlemeninparticular,Mr.Stack,Ishallalwaysfeelunderobligation,asheassistedmegreatlytohisowninconvenience,thenativesbeingsogenerallyill,thatwhenItookawaytheladsbelongingtohishousehold,itwasimpossibleforhimtogetanymoretosupplytheirpl

aces,whichinordinarytimeswouldhavebeeneasy.IwasobligedtotakethesenativesbecausetheyhappenedtoberelatedtotheRoturoatribe,andconsequentlycouldgotherewithoutanydangerofbeingputintoa"coppermowrie"whentheyarrived.IlearntacuriousfactrelatingtothepoliticsofNewZealandinconsequenceofthiscircumstance.Itappearsthatiftwotribesareatwar,andthechiefofmostconsequenceinonetribeweretomarrytheonlydaughterofthecorresponding"rangitera"oftheother,thatwouldnotdoanythingtowardsmakingpeacebetweenthetwotribes;butthetwoindividualsonlywouldobserveneutrality:andthisisthemorecurious,asfemalescanreallyholdproperty,andareinfactchiefs,aswellasthemen.ThereisacaseinpointbetweentheWaikatoandRoturoatribesatthepresentmoment.Itisastrikinginstanceofthewantofrealpowerinthechiefs;aswerethereanyrealgovernment,suchamarriagecouldnotfailtounitethetribesunderonehead,oratalleventstorende

rthemallies.

Afterseveraldays'delayfromtheabove-mentionedcauses,Igotreadyforthejourney,andsetoutforRoturoawithsevennativestocarryluggage,andawhitemanasinterpreter.Ishouldnothavewantedsomanynatives,haditnotbeenforthegreatweightoftheirfood,whichconsistsalmostentirelyofpotatoes:one,infact,wentsolelytocarryfoodforthefirstday'sjourney,andleftusnextmorning.

IleftTawrangaaboutoneo'clockonthe17thofFebruary,1839.Thisday'sjour



neywasnotabovefifteenmiles,andwasalmostentirelyoveraplaincoveredwithfern:thewalkwashoweverquiteenoughformeforthatday,andIwasverygladwhenthetentwaspitched,andIenjoyedmypotofteaandpieceofbreadandporkwithanappetiteanaldermanmighthaveenvied.Thereissomethinginexpressiblydelightfulinlivinginatent:snail-like,youcarryyourhousewhereveryougo;andformyownpart,Ialwayssleepmuchbetterinatentthaninaninn,andenjoymymealsinfinitelymoreintheopenair,sittingatthemouthofmytentliketheshepherdsofold,thanIshouldifIhadthebestdinnerthateverwascookedinasmokyhotelinLondon.IrecollectwhileinEnglandthataverylittlethingwouldputmeoutofconceitwithmytea,andIcouldnomorethinkofrelishingitwithoutwhitesugarthanofeatingapieceofdrycrustcoveredwithmould;buthereIalwaysusedtothinktheteaexcellent,althoughboiledinacommontinpot,orpannikinasthesailorscallit,anddrunkoutofthesame,andsweetenedwithcoarsebrownsugar;andIusedtodoleouttheremnantsofbreadwhentheywerequiteblue,asifitwasthegreatestluxuryintheworld:somuchareourtastesaswellasourselvesliabletobealteredbycircumstances.Itwasnottilllongafterthis,however,thatIwasshortofbread;asbythekindnessofmyfriendsatTawranga,Iwasloadedwithbread,roast-meat,&c.,andwasnotyetreducedtothenecessityofeatingpotatoeswithmytea,orcoldpotatoeswithoutsaltforlunch.Ihaveoftenseenthenativeseatrawpotatoes,andoncelivingcraw-fish;twothingsIneverwassohard-pushedastotry.

Wecrossedoneriveraboutfifteenyardswideandknee-deep,veryrapid,andrunningoverasmoothbottomofrock:itwouldformafinemill-stream,asthebank

sareveryhigh,andclosetotheedgeoftheriverwhichindeedseemstobeacharacteristicofnearlyalltheriversIhaveseeninNewZealand.

February18th.Thewholeoftheroadto-daywasthroughverythickwoods;thelandmoderatelylevelandexceedinglyrich.Wecrossedanotherriveraboutthesamesizeastheonewepassedlastnight,andagreatmanysmallerstreams,mostofthemhavingchannels,notexactlylikeravines,butquiteasdeep,andsteepinproportiontotheirbreadth,andonlydifferinginhavingtheirsidescoveredwithforest,andevidentlynotsubjecttoinundations.NewZealandisundoubtedlywonderfullywellwatered,yetto-daywepassedatleasttenmileswithoutseeinganystream,althoughthegroundwasanythingbutflat.Probablythewatersoonsoaksthroughthesubstratum,whichappearstobeofasoftvolcanicstone.Thewholebasisofthesoil,theearthypart,ispumice;butyoumaydigsixinches

deepthroughbeautifulblackmouldbeforeyoucometoanyvestigeofthatsubstance.ThetreeswerechieflytheTowa[3],atreestronglyresemblingthebeechinleafandgeneralappearance,andbearingafruitaboutthesizeandcolourofadamson,butwithaverylargeseed.Someofthefruitaresweetandpleasant;whileothersonthesametreeareverypoor,andtastestronglyofturpentine.Thewoodisaboutthehardnessandhasjusttheappearanceofbeech;itisrarelymorethantwofeetindiameter.TheRimu[4](themostbeautifultreeintheworldwhenyoung)hasbranchesveryslenderandpendulous,andtheleavesverysmall,notmuchbroaderthanhairs,andsetallroundthetwigs,sothatthetreelooksasifitwerecomposedof"Chenille"fringes.Theberryismuchlikethatoftheyew,towhichtreetheRimuisnearlyallied;itissweet,andeatenbythenatives.Thewoodresemblesincolourthatoftheapple-tree,andisbrittle.Itisoneofthelargesttreesintheforest;asitbecomesold,itlosesitsextr

aordinarybeauty,theleavesshorteningtilltheyaremerescales.NextinabundanceistheMiro[5],atreeexactlyliketheEnglishyew,butbearingsweetberriesaboutthesizeofhorse-beans,withaninternalseed.Thewoodisdark,fine-grained,rathersoft,thoughharderthandeal,andverytough.Itslargestsizeisabouttwofeetdiameter.Fromitsgreatbeauty,itwouldwelldeservetobegrowninEngland;andasIhavefounditgrowingashighupthemountainsasanyothertree,Ihavenodoubtitwouldbeperfectlyhardy.ThelargesttreeIhaveseeninthecountryisverycommoninthesewoods,butisnotpeculiartothem,althoughinotherthanrichsoilitneverarrivesateventhesizeofthecowrie.Ithasasoftwhitewood,andisalwaysdecayedinthemiddle;itexactlyre



semblestheelminleaf,andverymuchingrowthandbark;butIcouldneversucceedinprocuringaspecimeneitherinflowerorseed[6].Ihavemeasuredatreethirty-sevenfeetincircumference;butsucharerare;andweretheymorecommon,wouldbeuselessfromthebadqualityofthewood.

Thesearethechieftreesintherichestdescriptionofdrywoods,suchasthoseIpassedbetweenTawrangaandRoturoa.TheRata[7],inmyopinionthemonarchoftheNewZealandforest,isoccasionallyfoundverylargeinthesewoods,butprefersamoreclayeyandhillysoil.Itisoftensixtyfeethighwithoutabranch,andfromfourtofivefeetindiameter;thewoodisafinepalebrown,equaltomahoganyinbeauty,andAfricanoakinhardnessanddurability;itisafirst-rateship-buildingwood,butontheeastcoastisrare;asyouapproachthewestcoastitbecomescommon:itbelongstothemyrtlefamily,andisverycloselyleafed,withsmallbrilliantly-greenovalleavesgrowingbythreesaroundthestem;theflowersareverynumerous,smallandscarlet(Iamtold).Ihaveclimbedmanytrees,butneversucceededinfindinganyseed,norseed-vesselsinanystateofdecay;butoncefoundthreeyoungplants,whichIhavegot;theyweregrowinginarottenbranch,highfromtheground,andhadrootsverymuchlikepotatoes,andaslargeinoneinstanceasawalnut.ThisaccountsforthenativessayingthereareneveranyyoungRatas.Ihavenodoubtthat,likemanytreesoftropicalclimates,theynevergrowfromtheground,buttoit,thatis,theystrikerootinthebranchesofanothertree,andafterwardssendrootsdowntothesoilthroughthetrunkoftheirsupporterasitdecays.ItwouldbeamagnificentornamentaltreeinEnglandifitwouldgrow(whichIthinkpossible),asitwould

beutterlyunlikeanytreeatpresentknowninEuropeT^hefoliagebeingverydenseattheextremitiesofthebranches,butnowhereelse,itlookslikeanumberofsmalltrees,suchasbox,growingoutofoneanother,oroutofthegiganticstemofanoak.TheTanekaha[8]isalsooccasionallytobemetwith,butonlyonthesteepsidesofgullies;itprefersapoorersoil;itisthemostcurioustreeinthecountry,beingaconiferousone,withthebranchesproceedingfromthetrunkasregularlyasinanyspruce,andyethavingbroadleavesveryliketheleafletsofsomeferns.Thewoodisexceedinglytoughanddurable,butunfortunatelydoesnotgrowsufficientlylargeformasts,exceptforsmallvessels.Itslargestsizeiseighteeninchesdiameter,andabouttwenty-fivetothirtyfeettothebranches.ItwouldliveinEngland,andwouldbeaverygreatcuriosity.Insimilarplacesistobeseenaverycuriousshrub,orsmalltree,whichwhenyounghasthemostextraordinaryleavesIeversaw.OnaplantfivefeethighIh

avemeasuredleavestwenty-sixincheslong,yetnotmorethanthree-quartersofaninchbroad.Indeepshadetheyarebeautifullyvariegatedwithpinkandwhite.ItisanAralia,andhashighly-perfumedflowers,aquality,bytheway,quitecharacteristicofNewZealandplants.Ihavemetwithmoresweet-scentedflowersherethaninanyotherplaceIhavevisited.Aswepassedthroughthewoods,wefoundtwoplantationsofpotatoes,whichwouldhaverenderedourbringinganyquiteunnecessaryhadweknownofthem.Asmynativesneverseemedtoconsiderthatthesekindofplantationsbelongedtoanybody,wealwaysusedtohelpourselveswhenwecametoanyofthemwithoutcompunction.Infact,Isupposethatthesepatchesmusthavebeenplantedbysomeofthemission-natives,onpurposetosavetroublewhentheywenttheirjourneysbetweenthetwostations.Thewoodsareexceedinglyfullofgiganticclimbers,themosttroublesomeofwhich,becausemostabundant,isaSmilaxofenormoussize.Itbearslargebunchesofredberri

es,ofwhichthenativesareveryfond.Itsstemsareamazinglystrongandtough,andareusedforagreatvarietyofpurposes,themostcommonofwhichisthebuildingofhouses,whereitsuppliesthemwithlaths,towhichtheytietheirpalm-leavesandothermaterialsforformingthewalls.

Ourencampmentto-nightwasonthetopofaveryhighandsteephill,andaswehadnokettletocarrywater,Iwasobligedtousemymackintosh,whichansweredverywellbymakingahooptoholduptheedges.Ipridemyselfonmyinvention,andthinkMr.Mackintoshoughttosendmeanewone,forfindingoutanewuseforthisarticleofclothing,andtherebyenhancingitsvalue.



AtthisplaceIfirstobservedthedeficienciesofthealphabetintroducedbythemissionaries:itconsistsonlyoffourteenletters,andalthoughbanddarefrequentlyusedinspeaking,theirsoundsarerepresentedbypandrinwriting.Theindiscriminateuseoftheselettersistheconsequence,producinggreatconfusionandembarrassmenttolearnersofthelanguage.Thus,sometribeswillsayRimu,andothersDimu;KerrykerryandKiddikiddi,&c.;andotherswillusethesoundexpressedbyrintheiralphabetinsuchawaythatitwouldpuzzleanyEuropeantounderstandwhatwassaid.Icertainlythinkitwouldbemuchbetterifthealphabethadbeenfurnishedwithallthelettersthatthenativescouldhavesounded;andalthoughperhapsatfirsttheymighthavebeenalittleconfusedinusingthemwiththeproperexactness,averylittlepracticewouldhaveovercomethatdifficulty,andthelanguagewouldhavegainedbyitinclearnessandintelligibility.Besides,asMr.Busby(theresidentatthebay)says,itwouldhavebeenamarkwherebytodistinguishtheeducatedfromtheuneducatedthegentlemenfromthevulgar.Afterthelettern,ahasanasalsoundsomewhatresemblingthatin"Nantes."InMowrie(NewZealandlanguage)itisnotdifficulttoexpressthesoundbydesiringtheexperimentertosay"na"(nah)withoutmovinghistongue,andwithhismouthalittleopenatthecommencementofthesound,atthesametimeadmittingalittleairthroughhisnose.Ithinkthissoundwouldbemuchbetterrepresentedbygnthanng,asisnowdone;butstilleitherwouldbeerroneous,asthesoundisnotintheconsonant,butinthevowel.ThenameofoneoftheBayofIslandstribes,"Ngapui,"isanexampleofthissortofRussiancombination:thenativeshaveneitherf,g,i,norl,butchangethemforoth

erletters;stheyleaveoutentirely.Itisimpossibletomakethempronounceanywordshavingthesesoundsinthem:forinstance,knifeis"nihee,"thetwosyllablesandthenhbeingdistinct.Myname,John,is"Honi"(pronouncedHonee);James,"Hemi;"&c.Wilsonischangedto"Widdyhinna;"Stack,"Tacca;"Chapman,Tappimanna,withasuppressionofhatthebeginning,ornotquitet'Happimanna.Thenearestapproachtobefoundformynamewas"Biddywiddi'or"Piddiwiddi."ThosegentlemenwhosenamesIhavemadeuseofwill,nodoubt,excuseme,asIwasatalossforotherillustrations.Veryfewexceptmissionariesarecalledbytheirsurnames,alltheothersbeingHonis,Hemis,Widdims(Williams),&c.Theframerofthealphabetwas,Iunderstand,thussparingofhisletters,inordertomakethelanguageassimpleaspossible,withouttakingintoaccountthedifficultiesofexpressingwiththemthosemodulationsofsoundonwhichtherichnessandmelodyofalanguagesomuchdepend.Theyhavebutfivevowels,a(ah),e

(a),i(e),o,andu(pronouncedou).ai,asin"Waikato"(Wykato),couldhavebeenconvenientlysupersededbyyasavowel,thoughthenativescannotmaketheconsonantalsoundofthatletter.Inlikemanner,thereisnocharactertosignifytheeasinEdwardorWest;andyetthatisapurevowelsound,andisconstantlytobefoundinthelanguage.Itappearstomethathadtheobjectbeentomakethelanguageassimpleaspossible,thatobjectwouldhavebeenmuchbettereffectedbyaugmentingratherthandiminishingthenumberofvowelswhichcharacterisetheEnglishandotherEuropeantongues:forinstance,hadtherebeena,andah,withaseparatecharacter,easin"we,"andanotherasin"west;"i,o,andu;itwouldhavebeencomparativelyeasyforanyforeignertolearnthepronunciationofthelanguagefromthebooks,whereasatpresentitisasimpossibleasinanyoldmotherlanguage.Forinstance,whocouldknowhowtopronounce"hau,"whichispronouncedexactlyas"how"inEnglish?Whereas"waw"ispronounce

djustasthesameletterswouldbeinEnglish.Butitisuselesstomultiplyinstanceswhichevidentlymustbeinnumerable.ThechiefreasonIseeforregrettingthepresentsystemis,thatIthinktheformationoftheMowrielanguageintoawrittenonewouldhavebeensuchanexcellentopportunityofshowinghowperfectlythewrittenwordsofalanguagemightbemadetoindicatethesoundsadesideratumnevertobeobtainedinanyEuropeanlanguage,asitwouldbeimpossibletomakeawholegenerationlearnanentirelynewalphabetwhentheywereaccustomedtoanoldonewhichgavethemnoinconvenience,fromhavingbeenalwaysaccustomedtoit;butwhenpeopleknewnoalphabet,therewouldhavebeennodifficultyinteachingthemasmanylettersaswerenecessarytoindicate,atallevent



s,allthesimple,ifnotmanyofthecommoncompoundsounds.IncaseofthecolonisationofthecountrybyEuropeans,thismeagrenessofthealphabetwillbeagreatdisadvantage,asitisnexttoimpossibletolearntheNewZealand,or,indeed,anyotherlanguagewithouttheuseofbooks.Ofcoursethereareindividualswhowouldsoonacquireanylanguage,butIamspeakingofthemass.Now,inproofofthedifficultywhichIspeakof,IcanstatethatIhavemetwithbutoneperson,andneverheardofmorethanfour,inallthecountry,whocouldspeak"Mowrie"soperfectlyastobeabletoaskeventhesimplestquestion,notconnectedwiththeirtrade,insuchamannerasimmediatelytomaketheMowriesunderstandwhattheysaid;andthegreaterpartofthem,includingmenwhohavebeenmanyyearsinthecountry,areincapableofspeakingmorethanacoupleofdozensentences,andthosenotcorrectly.OfcourseIdonotincludethemissionaries,whoallspeakthelanguagefluently;butitistobeconsideredthatitistheirwholestudyforalongperiodaftertheyarrive,andthattheyhavetheadvantagesofthepriorlaboursandresearchesoftheirbrethren.Theverymuchgreaterinfluencepossessedbythemissionthanbyanyotherpersonsoverthenativesis,inmyopinion,chieflytobeascribedtotheirsuperiorknowledgeofthelanguage,andnottoanyfeelingofgratitudeforthemanybenefitsconferreduponthembythemission:indeed,Iamafraidthattheyhavenosuchfeelingasgratitude,evenintheweakestsense;andIamthemoreinclinedtothinkso,fromthefactthattheyhavenotonlynophrasecorrespondingto"Thankyou,"butnoformofwordstousewhentheyreceiveapresent.If,whenyougivethemanything,theydonotaskimmediatelyforsomethingelse(whichisgenerallythecase),theyaresilent;buttheygenerallymanagetofindoutsomethingcorresponding

tothethingyougivethem,forwhichtheyimmediatelyputinademand.Thus,ifyougiveafigoftobacco,youmaybesuretheywillaskforapipe;ifaknife,forastringtohangitroundtheirneckswith;orifevenamusket,theywillask,depreciatingly,"Whatisthegoodofitwithoutsomepowderandball?"andthat,too,iftheyhaveplentyofthearticlebythematthetime.Thiseveningtheyallpretendedtheyhadnotobacco,inordertogetsomefromme,althoughtheyhadmorethantheycouldsmokeinacoupleofdays.Themission-boyswereveryattentivetotheirprayersandhymnseveryeveningandmorning,andcommencedthemalwayswithoutmyremindingthem,whichIhadbeendesiredtodobytheirmastersincaseoftheiromission.ThegreatestrogueinthecompanywasReaderatleast,soIfoundhimafterwards;atthattimehepassedwithmeforquiteaSimonPure.Iwasmuchpleasedwiththeapparentdevotiondisplayedbyhiminreading,andtheothersintheirresponses;butIfoundthatthelongerwewereou

ttheworsegothisreading,andIwasoftenobligedtofindfaultwithhimforslurringoverhisprayers:butitislikechildreneverywherewhentheygetoutofsightoftheirmastersandthesewereonlychildrenofalargergrowth.Theywereallyoungmenofnotmorethantwenty.TheirnameswereatleastthenamestheytoldmefortheyhaveoftenadozenKohe-kohe,Coe-coe,Marua,Tomidel,Tong-owmissionaries,or,asweshouldsay,Christians;Moning-awandMahiaheathens,ordevils,astheysometimescallthemselves.Itsoundsrathercurioustohearanative,inanswertoaquestionastowhetherheisamissionaryornot,replyquitecoolly,"No;I'madevil!"Bythebye,Ihavegenerallyfoundthese"debils"thebest-workingandmostcivilfellowsamongthem,andthinkaveryreasonablequestionmightberaisedastotherelation,amongtheMowries,ofconversionandlaziness.Moning-awandMahiawerestrikinginstancesofthis;theycertainlywereworthmorethantheotherfour.Thefirst-namedwasquiteatreasure,andwould

havebeensoasaservantinanycountry.Healwayscarriedmybeddingandtentaheavierloadthanthatofanyoftheothers;especiallyifithadrainedinthenight,orwestartedearlyinthemorning,beforethedewwasoff:yethewasalwaysinfirstaftermeattheresting-places,andalwayscloseathandtoroastpotatoes,fetchwater,oranyotherthingthatmightbewanted,andevenwithoutbeingtold;whereasIsometimeshadtotelltheothersadozentimesifIwantedthemtodoanythingofthekindwhenhewasaway.Theotherfellow,Mahia,usedtocarrysuchloads,thatoneday,whenMr.Kohe-kohewasverysaucy,Imadethemchangeloads,asapunishmenttohim,whichheatfirstpretendedtobeverywillingtodo;butafteraboutanhour'strial(duringwhichtimeIkeptbehin



dhimtopreventhisdeceivingmebygivingupapartofhisloadtoothers),hefairlygavein,andafterwards,ifheoffendedme,IhadonlytothreatenhimwithMania'sloadtomakehimkeepclosetomyheelsalldayafterwards,whichwasallIwanted,hisloadconsistingofmybooksforspecimensofplants,&c.Ihavecertainlyobservedthatthemissionarynativesarethemostimpertinentandleastwillingtowork;butthatoughtnottocauseill-willtowardstheirteachers,asittoooftendoes;mostoftheEuropeanslayingalltheblameoftheprogressivecraftinessofthenativestothemissionaries,who,theysay,spoilthem,and"teachthemtheirimpudence:"whereas,thefactis,themissionarynatives,knowingmorethantheiruninstructedbrethren,likeallpeoplewhoknowverylittleindeed,butyetsomething,areapttothinktheyknowagreatdeal,andpresumeaccordingly.Theyoftenfancythattheyknowquiteasmuchasthe"PakihaMowries"(anameappliedtothepork-traders,&c,whohavenativewomenforwives),ifnotasthemissionariesthemselves.ThereisaterribledislikeamongstthelowEuropeansgenerallytothemissionaries;anditiseasilyaccountedfortheformeralllivewithnativewomenaswives,whichisdiscountenancedbythemissionaries.Thegeneralityofthemaregreatrascals,runawayconvicts,sailors,&c.,who,withtheordinaryrancouroflowminds,dislikepeoplesuperiortothemselvesinintelligenceandrespectability;especiallywhentheyseethatinspiteoftheirutmostefforts,theinfluenceofthemissionariesisgreater,evenamongstthosenotprofessingtobeChristians,thanevertheycanexpecttoacquire,fortheveryobviousreason,thatthedisinterestedexertionsofthepreachersarealldirectedtooneobject,andtheyallsupporteachotherwhiletheothersonlyworkforthemselves,andhateoneanotherinproportiontotheproximity

oftheirresidences.Withregardtowhattheyallsayaboutthemissionariescausingthenativestoselltheirproduceofpigs,&c.dearer,andrequiremorefortheirlabour,itiswhollywithoutfoundation:foronepig,orpotofpotatoesorcorn,thattheonebuys,theothersbuyfivehundred;andtomycertainknowledgethemissionpriceforlabourisnotmorethanhalfthatwhichthePakihasgive.Ialsoknowthatthepricepaidforpigs,&c.,isnotmoreinoneinstancethantheother;andifitwere,itcoulddothetradersnoharm,asthemeretrifleusedforfood,whichisallthatisboughtbythemission,wouldneverhaveanyinfluenceonamarketwherethousandsoftonsareboughtfortheexporttrade.

Westartedfromourlastencampment,passedagooddealoftolerablylevelandveryrichground,traversedhoweverbyseveralverydeepwater-courses,andafter

anhour'swalkingoveratractoffern,arrivedatasmallPaonthebanksofthelakeRoturoa.HavingheardsobadacharacteroftheRoturoatribe,Iwasratheranxioustogetovertothemissionarysettlement,whichisonanislandinthemiddleofthelake.ThenativesdidnotappearveryfriendlytomyWaikatomen,butdidnotoffertomolestthem.Messrs.Moning-awandMahiadidnot,however,seemtobeparticularlycomfortableuntilacanoewaslaunchedforourembarkation.Allweresoeagertogo,inorderasIafterwardsfoundtoparticipateinthepayment,thatthecanoewasverynearlyswampedseveraltimesbeforewereachedtheisland;andmypaperforspecimenswassosoakedthatittookawholedaytodry.Iafterwardsbecameusedtothem,andwouldneverletmoregowithmethanIwanted:eachmanexpectedafigoftobaccoforpaddling,andtheownerofthecanoethesame.IthinkIhadtopaytwelveofthemtwiceasmuchasneedhavebeenpaid.HadIknownasmuchthenasIdidafterwards,Ishouldhaveonlyl

etsixgoinsteadoftwelve,andfeltmuchlessfearduringthepassage.

ThelakeofRoturoaisabouttenmilesbyfive;theshoresaregenerallylow,andthewoodhasbeenalmostentirelyremovedbythenatives;thereisbutonespotwhereitapproachesthewater,andthatnotveryextensive:thereareseveralPasonit,andasmallnumberofinhabitantsontheislandwherethemissionaryestablishmentis.Thecountryisnotsopopulousasithasbeen.Iwasinformedbythemissionariesthat,afewyearsago,whenthecelebratedBayofIslandsChief"Honghi"camethere,hekilledthreethousandofthem,andtheyhavenotsincebeenabletorecovertheirnumbers:theyareaverywar-liketribe,andares



aidtobeafinerraceofmenthananyother,butgreatthieves;theyarenowatwarwithallthetribesaroundthemexcepttheTowpotribe,whoaretoodistanttorenderthemanyvaluableassistance.Thelakeisalmostsurroundedbyboilingsprings,mudvolcanoes,andsolfataras.Ithinkitisprobablethattherearemanyhotspringsinthedeeppartofthelake,asitispleasantlywarmtobathein;whichisnottobeexpectedfromthenaturaltemperatureoftheatmosphere,whichhereisexceedinglychilly,themissionariessayitisthecoldestplaceintheisland:thethermometerwasrarelyabovefifty-eightin-doors,andintheeveningthefirewasalwaysverymuchinrequest.WearrivedatRoturoaintheevening,andreceivedaheartywelcomefromMr.Chapman,theonlymissionarythereatthetime.Ifoundfromhim,therewouldbesomedifficultyingettingon,astheinfluenzawasmorerecentherethanatTawrangaandconsequentlythepeoplewereweaker:hehowever,promisedtoassistmetotheutmostofhispower.Mr.ChapmanhadjustreturnedfromTowpo,andwasthefirstwhitemanwhohadeverpenetratedsofar,hehadbeenobligedtoreturnsoonerthanhewished,inconsequenceoftheillnessofhisnatives,someofwhomheleftbehind.AsIcouldnotgetawayfromRoturoafortwoorthreedays,Iemployedmyselfinvisitingthehotspring,&c.onthelake.Theshoresarebarrenandlow;buttherearehighhillsrisingallroundatnogreatdistance,generallyslopingupimmediatelyfromthewater,andcoveredwithtreesatthesummit:thehillsarefromsixhundredtoathousandfeethigh,andhaveaverybarrenappearance.Theisland,nearlyinthemiddleofthelake,isaboutfivehundredfeethigh,andisverysteep;itisamilelong,andtheremaybefiftyacresofitsufficientlylevelforcultivation.Theselevelspotsarecarefullyplantedwithkormeras[9],corn,&c.,buta

renotrichenoughforpotatoes,whichareneverplantedbythenativesbutonnewly-clearedland,whichtheyabandonafterthethirdyear'scrop;itthenbecomescoveredwithfern,andinafewyearsmoreisrenderedfitfornothingbytheconstantfiresdestroyingwhatevervegetablematterisformedbythedecayedplant.

Therearenumeroushotspringsontheisland;theyareallattheedgeofthelake,andformedintobathsbythenativesmakinganopenwallofstonearoundthem,soastoadmitasufficiencyofcoldwatertorenderthembearabletotheskin.Inallofthem,althoughnearlyboilingandstronglyimpregnatedwithsulphuricacid,theremaybeseenplantsgrowingindependentlyofthepatchesofgreenwhichcoverthebottom.Severalofthespringscontainsulphuretofiron,asmaybeseenbythestones,allofwhicharebronzedbythedeposit,oftensocomple

telyastolooklikepiecesofpyrites.Therearegreatnumbersofshell-fishinthelake,andalsocraw-fish,sometimeseightincheslong;bothofwhicharearticlesoffoodforthenatives,andofgreatconsequencetothem,astherearenofishexcepteels,whicharescarce,andsomelittlefishnotsolargeasminnows,whichtheycatchinnetsmadeintheshapeofasparrow-trap,andeatdried.ThelargesthotspringsareatthegreatPa,oneofwhichiseightorninefeetacross,withastreamrunningfromitfourfeetwide:thewaterattheplacewhenceitissuesis,Ihavenodoubt,hotterthanboiling,asitappearstocomeupintheformofsteam;itisquiteclear,andhasbutlittletaste,althoughitsmellsstronglyofsulphuricacid:therocksaroundareencrustedwithawhitishefflorescenceofanintenselysourtaste,whichIregretIhadnomeansofpreserving.Thenativescookalltheirfoodinthestreamsofhotwater,byputtingitintoabasketandlettingthewaterflowthroughit;itdoesnotatallinju

retheflavourofthevegetables,butInevertastedanymeatsocooked.ThewholeofthegroundaboutthegreatPaisfullofspringsandholesfromwhichsteamescapes,sothatgreatcautionisrequiredinwalkingabout,asafalsestepmightsinkyoutoyourmiddleinboilingmud.Thesitesofthespringsareconstantlychanging;andaplacewhichto-dayisquitehard,mayto-morrowbreakinwhentroddenupon.Deathsarisingfromaccidentsofthiskindareveryfrequentthewholegroundissohotthattheinsidesofthenativehutsarehardlybearable,andmust,Ithink,beveryunwholesome.Therewasplentyofveryfinetobaccogrowingnear,althoughIneveratanyotherplacemetwithanythatwasworthgathering.Isawhere,forthefirsttime,achieffedbyawomannotbeingabletofe



edhimselfbecausehewastabooed:ithadamostridiculousappearancetoseeafull-grownmanfedlikeachildwithpap.Thefoodwasinacalabash,andpushedbythewoman'sfingerstotheedge,sothatitshouldfallintohismouth.AboutamilefromthePa,areanumberofmudvolcanoes(iftheymaybesocalled),consistingofhollows,varyingfromfiftytoonehundredandfiftyfeetacross,filledwithmud,abouttheconsistenceingeneralofpeasoup.Thismudisconstantlybubbling,andmakingamostcuriousnoise;insomeoftheholestherehavebeenformedconesofmudabouttenfeethigh;intheseplacesitisofasomewhatthickerconsistence,andIsupposethebubblesalwaysescapeatthesameplaces.Themudisnothot,andthewaterwhichdrainsoffisverynauseous,quitedifferentintastefromthatofthehotsprings,whichmightbedrunkonanemergency.Thereisaboutasquaremilecoveredwiththesemud-springs,thepathsbetweenthehollowsnotbeingmoreinmanyinstancesthanafootwide;itisamostdesolateplace,andthecountryaroundverybarrenquitedifferentfromwhatitisintheneighbourhoodofthehotsprings.Aboutfourmilesoffisthelargestsolfataraintheneighbourhood;itisinalittlevalley,andtheactualhotportionisaboutahundredandfiftyyardsacross,withamuddyhollowinthemiddle,outofwhichrunsastreamofhotwater:thechrystalsofsulphurinthecrevicesareverybeautiful,butitwasimpossibletotakeawayanyspecimenswithoutbreakingthem.Idonotknowtowhatdepththesulphurextends,butitdidnotseemtobeabovetwofeet;afterthatdepththereappearedtobenothingbutearth,oratalleventstheearthformedthelargerportionofthemassIdugup.Thesulphureousrockwasveryhotevenonthesurface,butcloselysurroundedbyvegetation.Ihadknockedoffanumberofspecimenstobringaway,whenthenativ

essaidIshouldnothavethemunlessIpaidforthem.ItoldthemIshouldnotwantthematall,butthatiftheywouldcarrythemtotheboat,whichwasaboutamileandahalfoff,theyshouldhaveafigoftobacco;whicharrangementcompromisedthematter.Ihadaninstanceoftheirthievingtalentshereforthefirsttime:Ihadtakenoffmycoatinordertoclimbatree,andwhenIwantedtofindsometobaccowhichIhadputintomypocket,itwasmissing.Thiswas,however,almostasolitaryinstanceofmylosinganythingbythenativesofthispartoftheisland:ofthoseintheThamesIcannotsaysomuch.

Aftertwoorthreedays'delay,IstartedfromRoturoawiththesamenativesIhadbefore,andoneortwoextraones;amongwhomwasachiefcalledRangey-o-nare,whowent,hesaid,asmyfriend.Ifoundthisgentlemanveryusefulincarryingmeovermuddyplaces,rivers,&c.onhisback;hebeingtheonlyoneofthec

ompanyatlibertyforthatpurpose,alltheothersbeingladenwithfood,&c.,whichthechiefsareprohibitedfromcarryingontheirbacks.Ididnotwishhimtogo,butwasgladofhiscompanyafterwards;hewasaveryquietfellow,andmadehimselfasusefulascouldbeexpectedofachief;theonlythingheeverrefusedwastolendmehistomahawktocutsticksforfirewooditbeing"taboo,"forcuttingopenmen'sheads,Isuppose:however,hehadnoobjectiontocuttingawalking-stickoratent-polewithit,adistinctionwhichseemsratherridiculous.Thefirstday'smarchfromRoturoawasabouttenmilesonly,aswestartedlate:theroadledthroughthemudspringsIhavementioned,andwasverybarren.Wecrossedseveralstreams,andencampedattheentranceofawood,wheretherewereseveraloldhutsandapotatoplantation.Thenativeshadalargecoppermowrietocooktheporktheyhadbroughtwiththem;andforthefirsttimeIsawthemeatthecommonmilk-thistle;theycookitasconstantlyastheleavesofthewi

ldturnipandcabbage,andseemtorelishitjustasmuch:itissopreciselyliketheEnglishmilk-thistle,thatIamalmostinclinedtothinkitmusthavecomewiththepotatoe.Thereisanotherplantwhichhaspuzzledmethecommonplantain,whichiseverywherequiteasgeneralasinEngland;Icanseenodifference:notbeinganarticleoffood,thenativescantellnothingabouthoworwhenitcame.Werethecontrarynotwellknown,thepotatoemightbetakenforanindigenousplant,asitisimpossibletogoanywherewithoutfindingitgrowingwild.Asweknowithasnotbeenintroducedmorethanfiftyyears,thisdiffusionoftherootmaybeconsideredwonderful.Wemaybeledtosuppose,fromthiscircumstance,thattheclimateisexceedinglyfavourabletothegrowthofthepotatoe;



yetNewZealandpotatoesingeneralareverybad,andwillnotfetchinSydneyabovehalfthepriceofthosefromVanDiemen'sLand.

February24th.Thecharacterofthecountryinthisday'smarchbeganentirelytochange:afterafewmilestheferncompletelyvanished,andwasreplacedbyashortwirygrassgrowingintuftsaboutafoothigh.Theroadwaslevel,althoughweweresurroundedbyhillsatnogreatdistance.Theseweregenerallyquitebarrentotheverytops.Therewas,however,aremarkableexceptiononourright:thiswasalongmountaincalledtheHorohoro;itsdirectionwasaboutsouth-west;anditformedtheboundaryoftheplainasperfectlyasifithadbeenastraightwall,whichitinsomedegreeresembled.Itwas,infact,aperpendicularwallofbasalticrock,risingtoabout2000feetfromthesurfaceoftheplain;perfectlylevelonthetop,andcoveredwithtrees;thensuddenlydescendingperpendicularlyforabouthalfitsheight,andpresentingastraightbarewallofrock,risingasitwereoutofthetopofalong,steep,thickly-woodedhill.ItwasoneofthemostwonderfulaswellasmostpictuturesqueobjectsIeversaw.Ourroadlayparallelwithit,andattheendpassedrounditsbase.Wehadcrossedseveralsmallstreamsduringthemorning,andheremetwithoneabouttenyardsacrossandtwofeetdeep,which,likeallthesmallriversIhaveseeninthiscountry,appearedtohavenovalley,buttohaveitscourseexcavatedperpendicularlyoutoftheplaintoagreatdepth.Aftercrossingthestream,wehadacuriousplacetoascendontheotherside;thepathleadingupaverysteepridgeofhardearth,notaboveafootwide,formedapparentlybytherivermakingaverysharpturnjustatthatplace,soasononesideoftheridgetoberunningve

rynearlyinacontrarydirectiontotheother.ThereIfoundanewuseformyfriendthechief.Itbegantorainveryhard,andasRangey-o-nareandIwereaheadoftherest,Ishouldhavebeenthoroughlydrenched,haditnotbeenforaplanofhis.Isatdownontheearth,andhestoodupbehindme,stoopingovermyhead,andholdingouthismat,andseemingjustasmuchdivertedattheridiculousfigurewecutasIwas:however,itansweredtherequiredpurposefamously,andastherewasnobodyelsetolaughatus,Ididnotcare.Aswewenton,thelandbecamemoreandmorebarrenandlevel,tillitbecameameremoor,withoutashrub,andalmostwithoutvegetation;afewbushesofthemiserable-lookingDracophyllumbeingallthatoccurredtobreakthemonotonyoftheplain.IdiscoveredhereanextraordinaryCompositelittleplant,sosmallthatItookitforalichen;itgrewinflathardgreypatches,anddidnotrisehigherthanaquarterofaninch;thepatcheswereingeneralwinding,andIamconvincedthesharpes

t-eyedbotanistwouldhaveatfirstmistakenthemasIdid.Iafterwardsfoundanotherbutlargerspecimenofthesameplant,growingnearthelimitsofsnow,onthemountains.

AsweapproachedtheWaikato,thegrassbegantoimprove,especiallywhenwelefttheplainsandenteredthenarrowvalleys,insomeofwhichitwasequal,ifnotsuperior,toanyofthebestforest-landsofNewSouthWales.Oneplantalsoofthedandelionfamilybecameveryabundant,and,Ithink,wouldbeanacquisitiontoanypasturesevenathome,asitwouldbeinperfectioninthatpartofthesummerwhenmostgrassesarewithered.Ithasnarrowgrass-likeleaves,whichgrowinthickuprighttuftsnotspreading,likemostplantsofthefamily.Itstastewasequaltolettuce.WecrossedalargeriverwithinaboutamileofitsjunctionwiththeWaikato.Itwasabovethirtyyardswide,andaboutfivefeetdee

p.Immediatelyonleavingitsbanks,theroadpassedthroughanarrowvalley,attheotherendofwhichwasaremarkablerock,which,thenativessaid,wasformerlyaverystrongPa.Itappearedasifanimmensemass,almostassquareasadie,hadbeenpitchedfromadistanceonthetopofasmallhill,intowhichoneofitscornershadstuck.Howitcametheremustbelefttoconjecture,foritdoesnotappeartobelongtoanyoftheadjacentmountains.Itisaltogetherabout800feethigh,andtherockonthetopcomposesabouthalfofthewholemass.Isawitafterwardsfromallsides,andcanhardlyimaginehowanyonecouldevergetuptothetop,muchlesshowavillagecouldhaveexistedthere.Asweemergedfromthevalley,wesawthattherockwasontheothersideoftheWaikato



,whichhererunsrapidlythroughasmallbarrenplainofabouttwentymileslong,hemmedinateachendbynarrowgorges.Wetravelledsomemilesalongtheplaintoseekagoodplaceforencampment,butdidnotmeetwithanywoodtillnineatnight,andthencouldonlygetafewstuntedKaroakaorKarookabushes[10]tomakeafirewith.Thesoilwassothin,thatbushesfivefeethighcameupwithaslightpullofthehand.Itwasentirelybrokenpumice,largemassesofwhichlinedthesidesoftheriver.ThefirstnightIspentonthebanksofthisriverwassointenselycold,thatIcouldnotsleep.Atninenextmorning(February25)thethermometerstoodatthirty-nineinthetent.Thiscoldcouldnotbecausedbytheelevationofthecountry,asthebarometeratthesametimewasonly2940.Themorningwasbrightandsunshiny.AfterthisIhadfrequentreasontoobservethegreatchillinessoftheclimateoftheinterior,therangeofthethermometerbeingrarelyabove60atoneo'clockinthosepartsofthecountrywherethebarometerindicatedameanofabouttwenty-nineinches,andthistoointhemiddleofsummer,orratherinwhatoughttocorrespondwithourJulyandAugust.Thenativestoldmethatinthewintertherewasoftensnowonallthispartofthecountry;andthatonthehillsaround,whichwerenotbyanymeanstobecalledmountains,itoftenlayforaweektogether.InfordingarivertributarytotheWaikato,Iwasratherstartledtofind,thatalthoughthewaterwasintenselycold,yetIcouldnotstandstill,becausethesandatthebottomburntmyfeet.Ononesidewasapatchofhotearthandapoolofhotwater,butIhadnoideaofanythingmore.Thefactwas,thatthewateratthesidewasthesmallestportionofthehotspring;byfarthegreaterquantitydischargingitselfthroughthebedoftheriver.Weconstantlypassednearplaceswherethereappear

edtohavebeenspringsformerly,andoftentherewassteamhissingfromslightfissuresintherockswhichmightbepassedunnoticed.Oneinparticularwasunderasmallwaterfall;andIshouldneverhavediscoveredithaditnotbeenthatIthoughtthewatermadeamostextraordinarynoise,whichIfoundwascausedbythewaterpouringdownontheveryholefromwhichthesteamescaped.WearrivedonthelastbankoftheWaikatoonSaturdayevening,andrestedthegreaterpartofthefollowingday;afterwhichwewentaboutthreemilesdowntheriverinacanoe,andfoundatemporaryencampmentofnativesbelongingtothegreatWaikatotribe,whohadcomethereforthepurposeofcatchingcrawfish,shell-fish,&c,andsnaringducksandshags,whichwereveryabundant.Mynativestookcarenottofindthesepeopletillitwasneartheevening,astheythought,iftheydid,IshouldgoonassoonasIreachedtheothersideoftheriver,althoughitwasSunday.

Thenextdayweagainembarkedinasmallleakycanoe,anddroppedabouttwomilesfurtherdowntheriver,andlandedontheotherside,justattheheadofsomerapids,whichpreventfurthernavigationforabouttwomiles.Atthisplacetheroad,whichwehadalmostlostsightofforseveralmiles,becameagainquitedistinct,andwesetoffalongitforTowpo.Attheheadoftheserapidstheriverisfordable,andwefoundabouttwohundrednativesintemporaryhuts.Icouldnotfindoutwhatbroughtthemthere.Theysaiditwastomakeflax,whichgrewthereingreatabundance;butinotherpartsoftheWaikatocountrywhichIhaveseenithasbeenmuchmoreabundant.Theroadforabouttenmilesfromtheriverwasveryhillyandbarren,andlayoftenthroughnarrowvalleyshemmedinwithperpendicularrocks,soastolooksomethinglikethedeepcutsontherailroadsathome.Therewerenumerousdeepholesintheground,whichwouldhaverend

eredtheroadverydangerousatnight.Isupposethemtohavebeenformerlythesitesofhotsprings.Wepassedthroughthisbadroad,and,afteraboutamileofwood,emergedonagentlyundulatingplainsurroundedbymountainsinthedistance.Thelandwasbetterthanthegeneralityoffernland,butnotgood:however,therewasabundanceofwaterandgreatcapabilitiesofimprovement.AttheedgeofawoodwhichformsabeltbetweentheWaikatoandTowpo,ofaboutfivemiles'averagewidth,wefoundasmallsettlement,whereaboutfiftyacreswereinpotatoes.Theysaidthatmaizewouldnotgrowthere:atallevents,theyhadnoneplanted.TheyroastedsomeSwedishturnips,andafterwardsdressedtheminacoppermowrie.Irefusedtoeatanyatfirst,buttastedabitandfounditexcel



lent,althoughthesmellwasdisagreeable.Thesoilisveryrichhere,butafteroneortwocropsofpotatoesitbecomeswornout.Iamnotcertainwhetherthenativesmeantthatmaizewouldnotgrowinthispartofthecountryinordinaryseasons,becausetheysaidthiswasoneofunusualseverity.Thermometeratonep.m.55;barometer,285?20;weathergloomy.ThisisabouttheaveragerangeofboththeinstrumentsafterpassingtheWaikatotowardsTowpo.Weleftthispotatoeplantation,and,afterabouttwohours1walk,emergedfromthewood,andagaincameonalotofdampmoorishground,whichlastedallthewaytoPirato,thenextsettlementwereached.Thenativesherebroughtmetwoveryextraordinaryplants,oneagiganticumbelliferousplant,theleavesofwhichwereentirelystiffspines,fromfourtosixincheslong,andacuriouslittleballofscarletspinesaboutaninchandhalfindiameter,whichIafterwardsfoundtobelongtoaplantwithanalmostinvisiblestem,andleavesclingingcloselytotheground,sothatacarelessobserverwouldthinkthattheheadsofflowerswhichhesawscatteredaboutformedtheentireplant.IfoundittobeanewspeciesofAcæna,agenusalliedtothecommonburnet.Itisaverybeautifulandcuriousplant,whichIhopetobeabletointroduceintoEnglishgardens.

ItwasabouttenatnightwhenwearrivedatPirata.Thispaisverystronglysituateonthetopofsomeperpendicularcliffs,risingfromasmallstreamwhichrunsintoTowpo,fromwhichlakeitisonlyabouttenmilesdistant.Thepeoplewerenotover-disposedtobecivilatfirst,fancyingIwasonlya"PakihaMowrie;"butwhenthemissionaryladscameup,theyquitealteredtheirtone.

ItwasnecessarytomakeinquirieshereaboutacanoetotakeusacrossTowpo,asMr.Chapmanhadbeforetoldmetherewouldbeadifficultyaboutit.Nextmorning,beforeIwasup,theoldchief"Pirate,"or"ZePirate,"cametoseeme.Heistheheadchiefofthispa,andwasquiteagentlemanlyoldfellow.Hesaidtherewasonecanoeatthisendofthelake,andthathewouldsendsomepeopletobringitroundtothenearestpart.Hehadseveralchildrenwhohadcurioussandy-colouredhair,whichlookedverydisagreeable;theothershad,asusual,blackhair;butIcouldnotfindoutwhethertheyallhadthesamemotherornot.Thewifewhocamewithhimwasawell-lookingyoungwoman,abouttheageofhiseldestson,andapparentlyagreatflirt;shetookagreatfancytomesoshesaid;butitwasmostprobablytomyblankets:however,shegotanewpipeandsomeoftheweedfromme,inreturnforhercomplimentsandsmilinglooks.

Ifoundallmymenrebelliousthismorning;theyhadmadeuptheirmindsnottostirfortheday,onthepleaofhavingwalkedsofarontheprecedingone.Iwonderedattheircontumacy,andgotveryangrywiththem;especiallywhenIfoundoutthatourresting-placewasonlyabouttenmilesoff;soIstormedawayforsometime,andthenproceededtotakemoreviolentmeasures:atleast,sofarastoliftoneortwoofthemofftheground,andgivethemagentlekickbehindatthesametime,andafewtoucheswiththestrapofmyshot-belt.Iatlastgotthemallloadedandstarteda-head,threateningallIcouldimagineincasetheydidnotfollowquickly.AsIwentonaheadwithanewguide,Ifoundoutthereasonoftheirunwillingness.Theoldchiefhadbroughtthemanimmensepigforafeast,andastheyhadalreadystuffedasmuchastheycould,theywantedtowaittilltheeveningtokillit,andhaveanothergoodfeed.Ilookedbackfromthetopofahill,andsawthattheywerereallyontheirway,andwassatisfied

;forwhenIfoundoutthecauseofdetention,IfeareditwouldprovetoopowerfulforthemtoovercomeapigbeingasirresistibletoaNewZealanderasturtletoanalderman,especiallywhenitistobehadfornothing.

OnreachingthetopofahillIgotthefirstsightofTowpo,andasplendidsightitwas.MuchasMr.Chapmanhadpraisedit,itsappearancefarsurpassedhisdescription.Justatthesamemoment,anopeninginthecloudsgavemeaviewofthePeakofTongadido,coveredwithsnow,andvomitingforthadensecolumnofsmoke.Itwasonlyinsightjustlongenoughformetoascertainthatitlayduesouth;andIdidnotseeitagaininthedayduringthewholetimeIwasonthe



lake.MyguideandIarrivedontheshoreofTowpoaboutoneo'clock,andafterwaitingabouttillthree,Ibegantogetalarmedatthenon-arrivalofmymen.Shortlyafter,anativecametosaythatwehadcomewrong,andIhadtoscramblealongthecliffsatthesideofthelakeforaboutamile,bothhungryandangry;tomysurpriseIfoundattheplacetowhichIwasled,notonlymyownlads,buttheoldchiefPirata,withseveralothermen,andwomen,andboys.Onmyinquiringaboutfood,theysaidthepigwouldbetheresoon,whichIfound,tomygreatsurprise,tobetheveryidenticalonewhichhadcausedmesomuchtroubleatPirata.Thiswas,itmustbeacknowledged,amosthospitableactiononthepartoftheoldchief,notonlytoprovideafeastforus,butwhenwewouldnotstaytoeatit,tosenditafterustotryusagain.Ispeedilycausedtheunfortunateporkertobekilled,withoutallowinghimtimetorecoverhisfatigue;andimmediatelysethalf-a-dozenboysandgirlscookingpiecesofkidney,liver,&c,onsticksoverafireamethodofcookingwhichatthattimeIsettledinmymindtobemuchsuperiortoanyotherfortheinsideofapig.

Idistributedsomephysictothenatives,andwasmuchamusedatthecoolmannerinwhichtheysuckeddownthenauseousbolusesofrhubarb,aloes,peppermint,andthelikeabominations,withoutdrinkinganythingafterwardstowashthemdown.IwasprovidedwiththismedicinebythekindnessofMr.Chapman;andfounditveryuseful,asthepeoplewereallsicklyfrominfluenza,whichhadbeenviolentamongthem.

Thenativesareveryfondofdaubingtheirheadswithasortofredpaintwhich

theycall"cocoi;"IsawalargemanufactoryofitonthebanksoftheWaikato;adoublecircleofmatworkwasformedroundalargespringofrustywater,andthecurdycarbonateofironwasbythismeansstrainedoff.Afterthispreparation,itisburntandmixedwithoil,andplasteredontheirheadsandbodies,tilltheylookasiftheyhadfallenintoapaint-pot.Iunderstanditisgoingoutoffashion;butitisstillsocommon,thatitisimpossibletobecarriedbyanativewithoutgettingyourclothesdaubedalloverwiththereddirtwhichhassaturatedtheirmats.

WeembarkedonTowpoaboutfiveinthemorning,inaverylargeTi-wai(Tee-why)orcanoe,hollowedoutofasinglelogofwood,withouttopsides;thosewithtopsides,ofwhichtheyhavenoneonthislake,arecalledWa-kaw,orincommonpronunciation"Walkers."ThiscanoewasthelargestofthekindIhadseen;ther

ewereseventeenpaddlersandabouttenidlers,besidesagreatquantityofpotatoesandmyluggage.Wehadplentyofroom,andforthefirstfewmileswentonverywell.Wehadtocrossalargebay,theonlydangerousportionofourjourney,andtillthatwasdoneIhadnothingtocomplainofintheirpulling.Afterthattheyfelloffsadly.Asthewindalmostalwaysblowsofftheeastshore,wekeptcloseunderitincaseofaccidents;themorningwas,however,verycalm,andthelakeassmoothasglass.Whenwegotabouthalf-waythroughthelake,wehadaglimpseofthePeakofTongadidobeforeus,andappearingtoriseimmediatelyoutofthelake.Asweapproachedthesouthend,itbecameagainhidbytheclouds,whichrestedonthesummitsofthelowermountainsformingtherange.Abouteleveno'clockwearrivedatavillage,wherewelandedtoeat.IhadnotbeenlongtherebeforeIwasjoinedbyanativecalledPeter,whohadbeenleftbyMr.Chapmantosuperintendthebuildingofahouse,whichthenativesareputti

ngupforhim,andwhichhewilluseasanout-stationtovisiteverytwoorthreemonths,justastheclergymendoinEnglandwiththeirdistantflocks.ThisPeterwasaverygoodnative,andquiteimbuedwithamissionaryspirit.Itwasreallyedifyingtohearhimreadprayersandexpound;itwasimpossibletodoubthissincerity:butIamafraidtherearenotmanysuchashethegreaterpartoftheso-calledChristiannativesbeingonlyattractedtobecomeconvertsbytheloveofchange,andtheeasymodeoflifewhichtheyenjoyatthemissionaryestablishments.

PeterimmediatelyvolunteeredtogowithmetoTongadido,andIwasverygladto



havehim,ashewasknowntotheinhabitantsofTowpoasamissionarynative,andconsequentlycouldanswerformynotbeinga"PakihaMowrie,"acharacterthenativeshereaboutseemedtoholdingreatsuspicionowingtothereportsofthemissionarynativeswithwhomtheyhadhadcommunicationMr.Petermostlikelyforone.Hadtheybeenmoreinthehabitofseeingwhitepeople,theywouldnothavecaredmuchwhethertheyweremissionariesorPakihaMowries,providedtheyhadplentyoftobaccotogiveaway.Afterrestinganhouratthisvillage,whichcontainedaboutfivehundredinhabitants,weagainsetoffwiththeadditiontoourcompanyofPeterandanothernativebelongingtoMr.Chapman,andachief,afriendoftheirs.

Inabouttwohourswereachedasecondandsmallervillage,wherewehadanotherdetention,andwherePeterwantedmeverymuchtostaythenight:however,Iwasdeterminednottobepreventedfromreachingthesouthendofthelakethatevening,andforcedthemtosetoffagain,althoughtheytoldmethenearestwaytoTongadidowasfromthatvillage.Oneofmynativesleftmehere.HehadjoinedatRoturoa,butwasnotamissionarynative,althoughIfoundhimatthesettlement.HewastheworstsampleofaNewZealanderIhadmetwith,andIwasgladofanexcuseforsayingheshouldnotgoanyfartherwithme.Icouldhavehadadozenvolunteersimmediatelyinhisplace,ifIhadwishedit.Myboatmenweredeterminednottogofartherthanthevillageatthesouthendofthelake,forthatnightatallevents;andalthoughitwasnotthreeo'clockwhenwestartedfromthelastplace,andourdestinationwasnotfivemilesdistant,theytookcarenottogettheretillitwasjusttimetopitchthetent.Theynevervexedm

esomuchbefore;buttheirreasonfordelayingmewasthattheywereafraid,iftheyreachedtheendofthelakebeforetheevening,Ishouldinsistontheirstartingwithmeforthemountainthatnight;andtheythoughtitwouldbemuchmorepleasanttospenditinthevillagethaninthewoods,whichwasjustthecontrarytomynotion.

ItmaynotbeamissheretogiveadescriptionofTowpo,asIambutthesecondEuropeanwhohaseverseenit,andasitisnotlikelytobeagainvisitedforalongtime.Myvisithavingtakenplaceonlythreeweeksafterthatofmypredecessor(Mr.Chapman),itisverycertainmyaccountofit,imperfectasitwillbe,mustbetheonlyonethathaseverreachedEurope,andmaythereforebeconsideredvaluable.

Towpo(Taupo,missionaryspelling)isoneofthemostsuperblakesintheworldnotfromitssize,althoughthatisconsiderable,butfromtheextrememagnificenceofthescenerysurroundingit.Mr.Chapmanconsidersittobethirty-fivemileslong,andtwentybroad.Idonotthinkitisquitethirty-fivemiles,butthewidthisnotover-estimatedattwenty.ItissituatedinS.lat.39°35?;E.long.175°(about).ThesepositionsaresupposedfromthebearingsofMountEgmont,asitislaiddowninthecharts.MountEgmontisvisiblefromamountainwhichrisesinterruptedlyfromthelake.Theformofthelakeisasortofirregulartriangle,withthetwomostdistantanglesformingthenorthandsouthends.Thewesternshoreisapparentlynearlystraight,andthethirdpointofthetrianglewillbeabouttheeasternboundaryofthelake;atthiseasternangleisadeepbayaboutsixmileslong,runningsouth-east,whichisinvisibleexceptalmostimmediatelyoppositetheentrance.ThemostpeculiarfeatureintheappearanceofT

owpoistheimmenseheightofthesurroundingcliffs;theyarealwaysperpendicular,althoughinsomeinstancesrisinginterracesonebehindtheother,andvaryfromfivehundredtoonethousandfeethighatseveralpartsofthelake,particularlyattheN.N.W.andN.E.sides;theseriseperpendicularlyfromthewatertosuchaheight,thatIneversawtheirtopsthroughthecloudsforabovefiveminutestogetherduringthewholetimeIwasonthelake(eightdays).Therearebutfewplaceswhereacanoecanland,andatthosethebeachesareveryshortandnarrow:theyarecoveredwithpumiceandblacksand,andalwaysindicatetheentranceo1asmallstreamofwater.Thereareanumberofsmallwaterfallsroundthelake,butnoneofanyconsequence;theonlyriverorstreamofanysize



whichrunsintoitbeingtheWaikato,whichrunsinattheonlypartofthelake(thesouthend)wherethebanksforanydistancearelevel,andthewatershallow.

Atthenorthendisaverypeculiarmountain,withanoutlineasregularasifithadbeentheworkofart.Atthetwoextremesoftherangearetwopeaksjustalike,andeachaboutone-thirdtheheightofthemountain.Ataboutthedistanceofanotherthirdrisetwootherequalpeaks,andinthecentrerisesthefifth.Isupposeitisaboutfivethousandfeethigh.Iamnotcertainthatthecentrepeakbelongstothesamerangeasthefourothers.Itwasundoubtedlyconsiderablyfartheroff,andappearedsomewhatbluerthantheothers.AtthesouthendroseTongadido,whichfromthenorth-eastpartseemedtooverhangthelake;butwhenwereachedthesouthenditwasinvisible,andIdidnotagainseeittillafterascendingamountain,whichcostusfourhours'hardlabourtoclimb.Itdoesnothappenaboveeveryotherdaythatoneendofthelakeistobeseenfromtheotheratleastsothenativessaid.Isawthetwoendsatthesametimebuttwice,andeachtimeveryearlyinthemorning.Frequently,eventheeastshoreisinvisiblefromthewest,inspiteofitsequalheight.Thecliffsaroundthegreaterpartofthelakeareofadarkgreenishcolour,tingedsometimeswithred,andarebasaltic.Thefissuresareirregular,butrunquiteperpendicular;andthewholefaceoftherockpresentsmuchtheappearanceofamassofcommonstarch,butonagiganticscale.Onthewestcoast,aboutthemiddle,thereappears,foraconsiderableextent,adazzlingwhiteoutline;butIdonotknowwhatitis.Thenativessaiditwasnotaveryhardstone.Thewhitecliffswerenotso

highasthedarkonesrarelymorethantwohundredandfiftytothreehundredfeet.Thereisplentyofobsidiannearthelake,anditiscastupontheshoreinmanyplaces,butIdidnotseeanyinsitu.Thewaterisofadeepbluecolour,appearsexceedinglydeep,andnoweedsgrowinginit.

TheriverWaikatorunsintoTowpoattheS.S.E.end,andmakesitsexitatthenorth;attheplacewhereitenters,itisasmallsluggishriver,abouttwenty-fiveyardswide,andfromtwotofourfeetdeep.Itrunsinaverycircuitouscoursethroughalonglineofmudandrushes,formingtheonlypieceofflatlandneartheshore.Ononesideoftheriver,abouttwomilesdistant,issituatethegreatpaofTowpo,andontheeastside,ataboutonemilefromtheriver,isasmallpa,calledCoteropo,whereIwasencamped;thereareseveralotherpasonthewestsideofthelake,andthreeontheeast,butnotlargeones:itis,ho

wever,decidedlythemostpopulousplaceIhaveseenorheardofintheisland.Ishouldthinkthepopulationofthepasonthelakecouldnotbelessthan5000.Thecountryaround,Idonotthinkcanbepopulous;itistoomountainousandbareofwood,andtheMowriesonlygrowpotatoesinlandwhichisjustcleared,andafteraboutthreecropsabandonit,andclearanotherportionofforest.Mr.Chapmanimaginesthatallthelandwhichisnowbareoftimberhasbeenmadesobythiscustomofthenatives:butIhardlythinksuchcanbethecase.Itistobetakenintoconsideration,thatpotatoeshavenotbeengrownintheislandformorethanfiftyyears;andthenativesmusthavebeenbothverymuchmorenumerousandindustrious,tohaveclearedsuchaquantityoflandinsoshortatime.AlthoughIdonotthinkthegrowthofpotatoessufficienttoaccountfortheabsenceofforestoveragreatpartofthecountryperhapsmorethanhalfyetitiscertainthewoodhasdecreased,fromsomecauseorother,withinnogreatdistan

ceoftime;asIconstantlyfoundlogsandrootslyinginthewetgroundofthebarrenmoors,wheretheycouldnothavebeenbroughtbyanynaturalcauses;andtheyweretoodistantfromanyplacewheretheygrowatpresent,aswellastoouseless,tohavebeenconveyedthere.Thenativesnowyearlydestroylargequantitiesofland,bytheirwastefulsystemofagriculture,andintimetherewillbenotimber-landleft:butthiscausehasnotbeenlonginoperation,andisinadequatetothevisibleeffectsonthefaceofthecountry.

WoodisexcessivelyscarcenearTowpo,exceptinplacesinaccessible,andlandfitforthecultivationofpotatoesequallyso.Inaveryfewyears,allthewood



whichnowclothesthesidesoftheravinesandbasesofthecliffswillbegone,andgreatpartofthebeautydestroyedinconsequence;evennowyouseepotatoesplantedwhereitisnecessarytoclimb.Infact,ontheshoresofTowpo,everybitofsoilwhichamancanreach,evenattheriskofhisneck,isbeginningtobeplantedwithpotatoes,astheyhavewornoutallthelevellandsnear.WeretheytotakehalfthecareinthecultivationofthepotatoetheydointhatoftheKormeraorsweetpotatoe,theymightgrowitinhundredsofplaceswhicharenowonlycoveredwithfern,andareinprogresstowardsbecomingbarren;owingtotheconstantfireswhichthedrynatureofthatplantcausestospreadinamostdestructivemanner.Apersonwhopaidattentiontothesubjectmighteasilytellhowmanyyearshadelapsedsincetheforestwascutdowninanyparticularplace,byobservingtheheightofthefern.Inthefirstyear,afteritscultivationforpotatoeshasbeendiscontinued,thefernspringsuptoten,oreventhirteenfeetinheight,graduallydwindlesdowntosixinches,andatlastvanishesaltogether:itisthenreplacedbyashortwirygrass,growinginsmalltufts,aboutafootapart,withnothingbetween,andpresentingthemostdesolateappearance.

Coteropo,thevillagewhereIencamped,atthesouth-eastendofthelake,isasmallplacesurroundedbyboilingsprings.Thewholesideofthemountainatthebackisenvelopedwithsteam,escapingfrominnumerablecrevicesinthesoil.ThebushesofVeronicaandfern-plantsgrowclosetotheseplaces,anddonotseemtobeaffectedbytheheat,unlesstheyareabsolutelytouchedbytheboilingwater.Theportionoflandonthesideofthemountainwherethespringsaremos

tnumerousisabouttwomilessquare,andagreatpartofitissocoveredwithspringsthatnothinggrowsonit,anditlooksasbareasaploughedfield.Thereareagreatmanyotherplacesonthelakewheretherearehot-watersprings,butnotsoextensiveasatthisplace.Ifoundhere,thattheactionofthehotwater,whichwasnearlytasteless,(althoughthevapoursmeltofsulphuricacid,)convertedthecompactblacklavaintoclayofdifferentcolours;someofitbeingquitewhite,otherpartsmottledwithredandyellow.Thestoneswhichoverhungthehotplaceswerehalfconverted,whiletheotherswereashardandfreshasiftheyhadbeenonlyformedyesterday;thelavaishard,black,compactwithwhitegrains,stronglyresemblinggreenstoneingeneralappearanceandweight.Iphysickedsomemorepeoplehere,especiallyanoldchief:Iwasveryloathtogivethisoldfellowany,asIdidnotexpecttodohimanygood;oldageseemedtobehisonlydisease;hewasaquietoldman,andwasledaboutbyalittlegi

rl,Isupposehisdaughter.Igavehimsomeboluses,andtoldhimhowtotakethem,andwhenIreturned,foundthathewasverymuchpleased;ashesaidtheyhadquitecuredhimofwhatitwouldbedifficulttosay,forwhenhefirstcametomehistonguewasascleanandhispulseasfirmasanybodyneedwish.Hiscurequiteestablishedmyreputationasaphysician,andIhadinnumerableapplicantsafterwards.

Thenativeswereverycurioustoknowwhatwastheuseofmycollectingsomuchtrashinthewayofstonesandplants;soItoldthemthatwePakihasmadeallthe"rungwau,"withwhichwecuredthem,fromthesethings.Buteventhisdidnotmakethemmorewillingtocarryabasketofstones,oraportfolioofdriedplants:althoughtheywouldcarrytwicetheweightoftobacco,ormytent,whichwasveryheavy,withoutanygrumbling.

WesetofffromCoteropoonthemorningofthe1stofMarch,andimmediatelybegantoascendamountain,whichthenativestolduswasthenearestwaytoTongadido.Afteraboutfourhours'ascent,wereachedabareplaceonthetopofthemountain,andexpectedtoseethepeakmomentarily:however,whenwearrivedatthetop,nopeakwastobeseen,butoneoftheTowponativespointedoutanothermountainwhichhesaidwasTongadido.Iwasexcessivelyannoyedathavingbeensodeceived,moreespeciallywithPeter,whoIthoughtmusthaveknownhisfriendsweretellingfalsehoods;buthedeclaredthathewasdeceivedaswellasmyself.IwasverymuchpuzzledtodiscoverwhereTongadidocouldreallybe,asthe



mountainwhichtheypointedoutappearedtohavenopeak;andIthoughtIcoulddistinctlyseethetopofthehilloppositeus,throughthevapouronitssummit.Betweenusandtheothermountaintherewasaplainandalake,butIsawitwouldbeimpossibletoreachitthatdayatallevents.Theworstpartofthebusinesswas,thattherewasnotracktobefounddowntothislake,andalthoughitdidnotappearhalfamilefromus,ittookusnearlythreehourstoforceapassagetoitsshores.ThegreaterpartofthesideofthemountainwascoveredwiththecommonarborescentVeronicaofNewZealand(V.diosmfolia),which,fromitsneverbecominganythingmorethanabush,impededourpassagemuchmorethanalargeforestwouldhavedone,and,besides,preventedoureverseeingthelakeormountainopposite,althoughthedescentwasalwaysexceedinglysteep.Ibegantothinkwemustbewrong,andthatwehadgoneroundthesideofthemountain,insteadofdirectlydownwards:butaglimpseofthelakeshowedmyerror.Althoughthelakeappearedfurtheroffthanitdidfromthetopofthehill,yetitwasstillimmediatelybeneathourfeet.Peterandmyselfatlastreachedtheopenplaininwhichwasthelake,andweresoonafterjoinedbytherestoftheparty.

Therewefoundanativewhofetchedcanoestotakeusacross.Attheplacewherewelanded,wefoundatemporaryvillagewithaboutfiftypeople,veryfewofwhomhadeverseenawhitemanbefore.Theywereverycivil,andIagreedtostaytheretillthenextday.Oneofthepeoplepromisedtogowithus,toshowustheproperwaytoTongadido.OnthetopofthemountainIfoundseveralexceedinglycuriousplants:theonlyonegenerallyinterestingisaGaultheria,notbefore

discovered,perfectlyrecumbentontheground,withberriestwoinchesincircumference,ingreatabundance,andverygoodtoeat,aswellasbeautiful.LikealltheotherGaultheriasofNewZealand,thisplanthasasortofdoubleidentity,therebeingabouthalfoftheplantsbearingsnow-whiteberries,andtheothersredones,butnotdifferinginanyotherparticular.Theywouldundoubtedlygrowout-of-doorsinEngland.Iafterwardsfoundathirdvariety,orratherasecondspecies,withpinkberries,morebeautifulthantheredandwhiteones,butnotsogoodtoeat.Fromthislake,whichwascalledRotuideorRotuite(Ro-twe-tee),thecharacterofthevegetationentirelychanged.Thefernontheopenlandvanished,andwasreplacedbygrassofwhichIcollectedmorethantwentyspecies,someofthemverygoodforpasture.Thecommonplantainwasalsoabundant,asitisallovertheisland;sothatifIhadnottheexampleofthepotatobeforemyeyes,Ishouldconsideritindigenous.OntheshoreofTowpoIfoundafi

neplantofwheat.Howitcametherethenativescouldnottellme;andasundoubtedlyMr.ChapmanwastheonlyEuropeanwhohadevervisitedtheplacebefore,andthreeweekswastooshortatimeforittohavesprungupandcometoperfection,itsexistencetherewasverycurious.Inthislittlelaketherewerenofishlongerthantwoinches.Therewerelargeflocksofgulls,andofthesmallspeciesofblackandwhitetropicbirdswhichfrequentthecoastsofNewZealand.Therewerealso,asonalltheotherfreshwatersofNewZealand,abundanceofcormorantsoftwospeciesoneverylargeandblack,theotherblackandwhite,andsmall;andplentyofducks.ThewoodwhichcoveredonesideofthelakewastheonlyoneIeversawinNewZealandcomposedentirelyofonesortoftree.ItwasanopenforestofTotara[11],andstronglyresembledthepine-woodsofCanada.Thetreeswerenotlarge,butstilllargeenoughtomakeverygoodTi-wais.CanoesandpaddlesarealwaysmadeofthiswoodonthesouthsideoftheThames.It

ismorebrittlethancowrie,butmoredurable.

AtthisvillageIsawawomansoverylight,thatshehadaperceptiblecolourinhercheeks.Iintendedtosaytoher,jokingly,thatshewasawhitewoman(WhaiheiniePakiha),notaNewZealander(WaihiniMowrie):however,sheunderstoodmetoaskherwhethershewouldbemywaihini,i.e.mywife,andimmediatelycameovertothemouthofthetentwhereIwassitting,andseatedherselfbesidemetoourgreatastonishment,forallknewthatIneverallowedanynativetocomeinsidethetent.IwasstillmoresurprisedtofindwhataneasyconquestIhadmade.I,however,explained,beggingtobeexcusedthehonour,asIwasamissi



onary,andmissionariesdidnotmarryanybutwhitewomen.Shetookitinverygoodpart,whichinallprobabilityismorethanmostEnglishwomenwouldhavedoneincaseofasimilardisappointment.

OnegreatpeakofTongadidoslopesupfromthelake;butwhileIwasthere,Icouldneverseethetopofit,inconsequenceofthequantityofvapouralwaysrollingupthesideofthemountainfromagreatmanyhotspringswhicharevisibleonitssides.Fromoneoftheseaconsiderablestreamofwaterrunsintothelake,butgetscoldbythetimeitreachesit.Thesideappearedquitebarren,withtheexceptionofasmallbeltofwoodabouttwo-thirdsupthevisiblepartofthemountain.RotuitemaybesaidtobetherealsourceoftheWaikato,asthestreamwhichrunsoutofitiscalledbythenatives;thosewhichrunintoitareveryinsignificant.Themeanoffourdaysgaveforthebarometer285?20°;thermometer,about56°.

March2,1839.Severalofmynativesbeingunwell,Ileftthembehindtillmyreturn,andstartedforTongadidowithonlytwooftheladsIbroughtfromTawranga.Peterwentwithme,andseveralpeoplefromRotuite.Asusual,themencarriedthechildren,andthewomenthepotatoes,&c.Theprocessionwasclosedbyoneortwopigs,which,fromtheoppositiontheymadetotheeffortsoftheirdrivers,seemedtohaveasgreatadreadofTongadidoastheMowriesthemselves.Theroadledoveratolerablylevelcountrycoveredwithgrassofmanydifferentkinds;themostcommonwasalargewiryone,whichIshouldnotthinkgoodforcattle.Therewere,however,manywhichwouldbewellworthcultivating.Ihavesents

pecimensandseedsofmostofthemtoEngland,whereIthinktheywillthriveaswellasintheirnativeplace.Asweskirtedthebaseofthemountaininordertogetatthebestplacefortheascent,wefoundthegroundingeneralmarshy,andcrossedagreatmanysmallstreams,andnearlydrywater-coursesfilledwithlargestones.Thegreatwidthoftheseplaceswouldindicatethatatsomeseasonsoftheyearthewholeofthiscountrywouldbeimpassablefromthequantityofwater.Thiswasaverydryseason,butyethadnotdriedupthewetplacesinthemoors,althoughithadnearlyexhaustedthetorrents.WewereonTongadidoallday,butthepeakwasnevervisibleinconsequenceofthemistwhichalwayscoveredtheupperregions.Iseveraltimesaccusedthenativesofleadingmeastray,asIcouldnotmakeoutthedirectioninwhichweweregoingascomparedwiththatofthepeakasIhadobserveditfromTowpo.Aboutfouro'clockwearrivedatthejunctionoftwoconsiderablewater-courses,wheremyguidessaidwemu

ststop;andasIcouldnotseeanyvestigeofwoodanywhereelse,Iagreed.Afterwehadbeenthereabouthalfanhour,thecloudsrolledoutoftheupperendofthevalleywherewewere,andIsawthattheconewasclosetous,andthenfoundthatthis,ifany,wastheproperplacetoascend,whichthenativesstillmaintainedwasimpossible.Thetreeswhichgrewhereweresmallstuntedconiferousortaxaceousandcompositeones.Therewerenoneexceptonthesidesofthewater-course,andtheydidnotlifttheirheadsabovethelevelofthetopofthebankonwhichtheygrew.Thestreamwhichhererunsdownfromthemountainis,Ihavenodoubt,(fromobservationsImadeafterwards,comparedwithwhatIobservedatthetimeofthegeneraldirectionofthecountry,)theonecalledtheWaipa(Wypa)orwesternbranchoftheWaikato.Itishereanoisymountaintorrentaboutfourfeetdeep.IregretthatIdidnotaskwhattheycalledit,asitisverylikelytheyknewittobeabranchoftherivercalledtheWaipawhenitf

lowsfurthertothenorth.IfoundoutthattheroadwehadtravelledwasonewhichformerlyledtosomepartoftheWaikatocountry,butnowdisused,andthatitwastheonlyplacewherethebaseoftheconecouldbeseen;thatnobodyhadeverapproachednearerthanwenowwere;andthatthereasonwas,theywereafraid.Theysaidthatformerlywhentheypassedthispointoftheroadtheyusedtocovertheirheadswiththeirmats,becauseitwas"taboo"tolookatthemountain,oratleastthepeak.Thenightwasexceedinglycold,butIdidnotfeelitsomuchasIdidontheWaikato.Ifoundhereamostcuriouslittleplantoftheyewfamily(Dacrydium);itwasnotlargerthanaclumpofmoss,andwasmistakenforamossbymewhenIfirstsawit.IfoundherealsothecuriousForsteras



edifolia,andmanynewcompositeplantsandVeronicas.

March3d.WhenIaroseinthemorning,Iwasastonishedtoseethemountainsaroundcoveredwithsnow,exceptthecone,whichwasvisiblefromitsbasetotheapex,andappearedquiteclose.Thenativessaid,themountainhadbeenmakinganoiseinthenight,which,atthetime,Ithoughtwasonlyfancy:thereseemedtobealittlesteamrisingfromthetop,butthequantitywasnotsufficienttoobscuretheview.Isetoffimmediatelyafterbreakfast,withonlytwonatives,asalltheotherswereafraidtogoanynearertothemuch-dreadedplace;norcouldIpersuadethetwowhodidsetoffwithme,togowithinamileofthebaseofthecone.They,however,madeafireofsuchsmallbushesastheycouldcollect,andwaitedformetillIgotback.Astherewasnoroad,IwentasstraighttowardsthepeakasIfoundpossible,goingoverhillsandthroughvalleyswithoutswervingtotherightorleft.AsIwastoilingoveraverysteephill,Iheardanoisewhichcausedmetolookup,andsawthatthemountainwasinastateoferuption:athickcolumnofblacksmokeroseupforsomedistance,andthenspreadoutlikeamushroom.AsIwasdirectlytowindward,Icouldseenothingmore,andcouldnottellwhetheranythingdroppedfromthecloudasitpassedaway:thenoise,whichwasveryloud,andnotunlikethatofthesafety-valveofasteam-engine,lastedabouthalfanhour,andthenceased,aftertwoorthreesuddeninterruptions;thesmokecontinuedtoascendforsometimeafterwards,butwaslessdense.Icouldseenofire,nordoIbelievethattherewasany,orthattheeruptionwasanythingmorethanhotwaterandsteam;although,fromthegreatdensityofthelatter,itlookedlikeveryblacksmoke.Itoiledontothetopo

fahill,andwasthenmuchdisappointedtofindthattheothersideofit,insteadofbeinglikewhatIhadascended,wasaprecipice,orverydeepravine,withalargestreamofwateratthebottom.WithsomedifficultyImanagedtogetdown;andonascendingtheotherside,Ifoundmyselfinastreamoflava,perfectlyundecomposed,butstilloldenoughtohaveafewplantsgrowingamongthefissures.AsIprogressedtowardsthecone,whichnowseemedquiteclose,Iarrivedatanotherstreamoflava,sofreshthattherewasnottheslightestappearanceofevenalichenonit,anditlookedasifithadbeenejectedbutyesterday.Itwasblack,andveryhardandcompact,justlikeallthelavaIhaveseeninthiscountry;butthetwostreamswereveryinsignificant,notlongerattheutmostthanthreequartersofamileeach.Ihadnoideaofthemeaningofa"seaofrocks"untilIcrossedthem;theedgesofthestonybillowsweresosharp,thatitwasverydifficulttopassamongthemwithoutcuttingone'sclothesintosh

reds.Iatlastarrivedatthecone:itwas,Isuppose,oftheordinarysteepnessofsuchheapsofvolcaniccinders,butmuchhigher.Iestimateitat1500feetfromthehollowfromwhichitappearstohavesprung.Itlooksasifavastamphitheatrehadbeenhollowedoutofthesurroundingmountains,inordertoplaceitin.Thesidesofallthemountainsaroundarequiteperpendicular,andpresentamostmagnificentscene.Acircularplainofsandatthenorth-eastbasewouldhavebeenafittingsceneforthewildestpieceofdiableriethateverenteredthebrainofaGerman,orwasembodiedbyhispencil.Thermometeratbaseofcone,finesunshine,65°insun;noshadetobehad.Barometer,2514?20.

Theconeisentirelycomposedofloosecinders,andIwasheartilytiredoftheexertionbeforeIreachedthetop.Haditnotbeenfortheideaofstandingwherenomaneverstoodbefore,Ishouldcertainlyhavegivenuptheundertaking.A

fewpatchesofamostbeautifulsnow-whiteveronica,whichIatfirsttookforsnow,weregrowingamongthestones;buttheyceasedbeforeIhadascendedathirdpartoftheway.Asmallgrassreachedalittlehigher;butbothweresoscarcethatIdonotthinkIsawadozenplantsofeachinthewholeascent.AfterIhadascendedabouttwo-thirdsoftheway,Igotintowhatappearedawater-course,thesolidrockofwhich,althoughpresentinghardlyanyprojectingpoints,wasmucheasiertoclimbthantheloosedustandashesIhadhithertoscrambledover.ItwasluckyformeanothereruptiondidnottakeplacewhileIwasinit,orIshouldhavebeeninfalliblyboiledtodeath,asIafterwardsfoundthatitledtothelowestpartofthecrater,andfromindubitableproofsthatastreamo



fhotmudandwaterhadbeenrunningthere,duringthetimeIsawthesmokefromthetop.ThecraterwasthemostterrificabyssIeverlookedintoorimagined.Therocksoverhungitonallsides,anditwaswasnotpossibletoseeabovetenyardsintoitfromthequantityofsteamwhichitwascontinuallydischarging.FromthedistanceImeasuredalongitsedge,Iimagineitisatleastaquarterofamileindiameter,andisverydeep.ThestonesIthrewin,whichIcouldhearstrikethebottom,didnotdosoinlessthanseventoeightseconds;butthegreaterpartofthemIcouldnothear.Itwasimpossibletogetontheinsideofthecrater,asallthesidesIsawwere,ifnotquiteprecipitous,actuallyoverhanging,soastomakeitverydisagreeabletolookoverthem.Therocksonthetopwerecoveredwithawhitishdepositfromthestream,andtherewasplentyofsulphurinalldirections;butthespecimenswerenothandsome,beingmixedwithearth.IdidnotstayatthetopsolongasIcouldhavewished,becauseIheardastrangenoisecomingoutofthecrater,whichIthoughtbetokenedanothereruption.Isawseverallakesandrivers,andthecountryappearedabouthalfcoveredwithwood,whichIshouldnothavethoughthadInotgonetothisplace.Themountainsinmyimmediateneighbourhoodwereallcoveredwithsnow,andmuchbelowme.Icouldnotseetheseainanydirection.Thenativessaidthatfromamountainnear,whichtheypointedout,IcouldseeTaranackerandtheislandofCapitiinCook'sStraits:andasthiswasmuchhigher,Ioughttohaveseenbothplacesfromthisspot;butthesouthandeastwereentirelyinvisible,fromthecloudystateofthesky.Ihadnotabovefiveminutestoseeanypartofthecountry,asIwasenvelopedincloudsalmostassoonasIgotuptothetop.AsIdidnotwishtoseeaneruptionnearenoughtobeeitherboiledorsteamedto

death,Imadethebestofmywaydown.Itunfortunatelyhappenedthatthehighestpartofthecrater'sedgewastoleeward,otherwiseImighthavestayedtherealittlelonger.IhadnotgotquitedowntothesandyplainIhavespokenof,whenIheardthenoiseofanothereruption,butamnotcertainitcamefromthecraterIhadjustvisited.IthoughtatthetimeitcamefromanotherbranchofTongadidotothenorthward,onthetopofwhichIhadseenacircularlakeofwaterwhenonthepeak.IwashalffrozenbeforeIreachedtheravine,andthoroughlydrenchedbythemist;sothatIwasverygladwhenIfoundtheplacewhereIhadleftthenativesandthefire.Igotbacktothetentaboutsevenintheevening.Thebarometerstoodwhenatthebaseoftheconeat261?10inches;butIcouldnottakeitupfurtherthanthestreamsoflava,asIhadquiteenoughtodotogetmyselfalongwithouthavinganythingtohold.ThenativessaidthattheyhadheardtheeruptionwhichtookplaceasIwasreturning,andthatthegrou

ndshookverymuchatthetime;butIdidnotfeelit,perhapsbecauseIwastoomuchoccupiedwiththedifficultiesofmypath.

WhenIreturned,Iwasmuchannoyedtofindapartyofnatives,consistingofthreechiefsfromTowpo,whohadcome,theysaid,toseehowIwas.Hadtheybroughtanyprovisions,Ishouldnothavecared;butbeingchiefs,thatwasimpossible;anditwasequallyimpossibleformetotellmynativesnottogivethemany.Theconsequencewas,thatIwasobligednextmorningtoreturntoRotuite,insteadofstayinganotherdayatthemountain,asIparticularlywishedandintended,being,infact,completelyeatenoutofhouseandhome.

March4th.IsentoffallthenativesbutMoning-'aw,whowasquitemyright-handman,andtoldthemtohaveacanoewaitingonthesideofRotuiteaboutsunset,

andtohavethetentpitchedinreadinessforme.IthengaveMoning-'awakettleofhashedpig's-headandsomecoldpotatoestocarry,andtakingakitinmyownhand,setoffinthedirectionofthewater-courseinordertobotanise.Ifoundthered-floweredvarietyoftheflax(Phormium)growinginthewetplacesalmostasfarupasanyplantsexceptveronicas.PerhapsthissortwouldbemoreadvantageoustogrowinEnglandthanthelargecommonkind.Thefibreisequallystrongwiththatofthepale-floweredsort,whichisnotthecasewithanotherspeciesIfoundafterwardsgrowingonothermountains,which,however,Itaketobeadistinctspecies;notamerevariety,astheseed-vesselswerehanging,insteadofupright.Ifoundalsoaperfectyewabouttwofeethigh.Theonlypercep



tibledifference,exceptinstature,wasthattheseedwasnotquitesomuchimbeddedasintheEnglishyew.

Barometeratencampment2619?20,thermometer45,atninep.m.,cloudymizzle.

Iwaitedseveralhourscollectingspecimensandseeds,butafterwardsrecollectedmanyplantswhichIhadleftbehind,thinkingIcouldgetthemnearerhome.ItwillbealessontomehereafternevertoomitsecuringaspecimenwhenIfirstseeit.Ihavelostdozensofnewplantsbyomittingtodoso,thinkingatthetimethatIshouldbesuretogetfineronesasIwenton.Therewasbutlittleforestinthelineofmarchto-day;thelittleclumpsofwoodwhichweremetwithhereandtherecontainedchieflyaraliaceousplants,stronglyresemblingthoseonthecoasts,butreallydifferent.Inthewater-courseswereTotarasandKaikateras,asthenativessaid;butIthinktheyweredifferenttreesfromthosesocalledbyEuropeansandthenativesofthecoasts.ADracænawasverycommon,whichgrewintoatreethirtyfeethigh,twofeetdiameter.IfIcanmanagetogetthistreetoEngland,itwillmakequiteanewfeatureinornamentalplantations.Therearethreespeciesherewhichwouldgrowoutofdoorsathome;oneisverybeautiful.Weapproachedthelakeaboutsundown,andIwasrejoicedtoseea"tiwai"waitingforusamongthereeds,asIwastiredwithcarryingsomanyspecimens.IwasnosoonerseenthanseveralladssetofftorelievemeandMoning-'awofourburthens,andcarryusintothecanoe.Howsuchanactofcourtesycametobeextendedtomycompanion,Idonotknow,hebeingaslave.Isuppose,however,theysawthathewasafavouriteofmine,andthoughttopropitiatemeby

it.Therewasalargeflockofthesmallblackandwhitetropicbird(Idonotknowitsscientificname)hoveringoverthelake.ThesewerethesamebirdsIsawamongthelavasofTongadido.Theyhavewhitebodieswithsomeblackfeathersaboutthewings,blackmarksroundtheeyes,andthecharacteristiclongfeathersinthetail.Therewerealsolargeandsmallgulls;asmallblack-and-whitecormorant,andalargeblackone;andplentyofducks.Theywere,however,allaswildaseverIsawthesamekindsofbirdsinEngland,exceptthecormorants.Theseandtheducksarecommonabouteveryriverandlake;butthetropicbirdsIneversawanywhereelseexceptonthecoast,andthegullswererareintheotherlakes.ThegreatabundanceofallbirdsseenonRotuitewasnodoubtonaccountofitsshallowness,andthegreatquantityofmuditcontained.ThenativessaidthattherewerenofishinthelakeexceptwhatIsaw,andwhichwerenotmorethananinchlong.Thenativeshadvastquantitiesofthesedriedinbaskets,

whichtheycookbymakingthemintoakindofsoup,butwhichdidnotsmellsufficientlynicetotemptmetotaste.ThetentwaspitchedundersomeTotaratrees,inaveryfineopenwood,atasufficientdistancefromthenativehutstoavoidfleas,and,forawonder,withthemouthtoleeward.Theygenerallymadeapracticeofpitchingitwiththedoorfrontingthewind,unlessItookcaretoseethattheydidthecontrary.Icouldonlyaccountforitsbeingotherwiseto-nightbysupposingthatthewindchangedafterthetentwaspitched.Mahia,whomIhadleftherebecausehecomplainedofbeingill,wasverygladtoseeme,moreespecially,Idaresay,becausehesaidthattheyhadbeenrathersparingoftheirpotatoeswhileIwasgone.

March5th.Ithadrainedhardallnight,andcontinuedtodosothismorning;butIwasdeterminedtostart.Ihadbeenveryparticularinaskingthenativesifw

eweresureofgoingbackthesamewaywecame.Theysaidyes,andthatitwastheonlyway;butaftergoingaboutamile,Isawtheyhadbeendeceivingme;soIwentbackbymyselftogetaguidetotakemeoverthemountainbywhichwehadoriginallyarrivedatRotuite.WhileIwasendeavouringtopersuadesomebodytogowithme,Petercamebackandwestartedtogether.Myguidewasamostdeservingfellow,andwellmeritedthefigoftobaccoIpromisedhim.Hewentfirst,andcutallthebranchesandsmalltreesoutofmyway,actuallyworkingasifhewasgoingtoearnhislife,insteadofafigoftobacco.Ourcoursewasdirectlyupthesideofthemountain,atthetopofwhichwearrivedinaboutfourhours,allofusperfectlydrenchedanddreadfullycold.Whenwearrivedatthetop



,Icouldnotforsometimefindouttheroadbywhichwehadbeforegotthere;whichIshouldnothavemuchcaredabout,butthatIcouldnotseethetreeforwhichIhadtakensomuchtrouble.Iwas,however,verygladofitafterwards,asduringmysearch,whichtookupseveralhoursinheavyrain,Ifoundanewdracæna,oneofthemostbeautifulIhadeverseen,theleavesbeinglarge,andstripedwithredandyellow.Itmustbealsoveryhardy,asthenativessaidthatthismountainwasalwayscoveredwithsnowinthewinter.Thedracænawasgrowinginalittlegullyontheverytopwherethebarometerstoodat2511?20;thermometer,45.Ihavebeenfortunateenoughtosecureaplantofthisdracæna,whichisnowgrowinginSydney.Afteralongsearch,wefoundthetrackbywhichwehadpassedoverthemountain,andbyfollowingitIfoundthetreewhichhadcausedmosomuchtrouble.Strangeenough,itwastheonlyoneofthekindIeversaw.Idismissedmyguide,givinghiswifeafigoftobaccoaswellashimself,withwhichheseemedasmuchdelightedasanEnglishlabourerwouldhavebeenbyapersongivinghimathousandpounds;indeedIdoubtwhetherthelatterwouldhaveshownhalfsomuchjoy.TheviewofTowpofromthesummitwasmagnificent.ImmediatelybeneathourfeetontheTongadidoside,andabouthalf-waytowardsRotuite,wasasmalllakeonthesideofthemountain,whichIhadnotseenonmyformersurveyofthispartofthecountry.Ishouldcertainlyhavetriedtoreachit,haditbeenfinerweather.Itwasaboutaquarterofamileacross,completelysurroundedbyforest.Thecuriouspartofitwas,thatitwassituatedonthesideofasteepmountain,withoutanylevellandnear.WearrivedatTowpobeforetheotherparty,andIwashalfafraidtheyhadagainbeendeceivingmeandweregonetosomeothervillage,whichwouldhavebeenparticularlydisagreeable,asth

eyhadthetentandalltheprovisionswiththem.Iwas,however,soonrelievedfrommyapprehensionbyseeingthemturnthecornerofthemountainwhereitabuttedonthelake.Iwasvisitedbyseveralofmypatients,mostofwhomsaidtheywerebetterforthephysic.Therewasoneoldman,agreatchief,andaveryquietoldfellow,towhomIhadbeenloathtogiveanyphysic,asIcouldnotfindoutanythingthematterwithhimbeyondoldage.Iwas,however,agreeablysurprisedtofindthathefanciedhimselfmuchbetter,andbroughtmeapiginreturnforhis"rungwau."HealwayshadalittlegirlwithhimIsupposehisgrand-daughter.Ashewasaveryquiet,gentlemanlyoldman,Ididnotliketooffendhimbyrefusingthepig,butgavethelittlegirlsomebeads,andhimafigortwoofthe"weed,"inordertomakeitupwithhim.Shortlyafter,anotherpigwasbroughtasapresentformebecauseIhadascendedTongadido.Icouldnotfindoutwhosentit,andwasobligedtoletthenativestakeitalongwiththem.Ifou

ndithadbeengivenbysomepersonontheroad,andhadbeendrivenonbysomeofthehangers-onofmyparty.Thiswasacuriouscircumstance,asmostofthenativeswereexceedinglyjealousofmyachievement.Fire-woodwasveryscarcehere,sothatIwasobligedtobuyit,givinganinchoftobaccoforaback-load,averyhighpriceconsideringtheordinarypricescurrentofNewZealand.Wentashortdistanceonthelake,backtothevillagewhereMr.Chapman'shousewasbuilding,inordertopleasePeter.

March6th.Hadsomedifficultyingettingacanoeto-day,owingtoadisinclinationonthepartofmynativestoleavetheplace.Idonotknowwhathadbecomeofthecanoewebroughtwithus,butsupposesomepeoplewhowantedtogototheotherendofthelakehadtakenitwiththem.WhenIfoundoutthattherewasnodisinclinationonthepartofthenativesatthevillagetolendmeacanoe,but

thatonlymyownnativeswishedtothrowobstaclesinthewayofgoing,Isoongotoveralldifficultiesbyafewfigsoftobaccojudiciouslyapplied.

Iwastold,justasIwasthinkingofstarting,thatthechiefofTowpowantedtoseeme,andwaswaitingforme.Iaccordinglywenttoaplacewheretheypointedoutthreemensittingverygravely;theoneinfrontwasthechief.Hewasaremarkablyfineman,upwardsofsixfeethigh,andverystronglybuiltacompletegiant.Hewasalsoveryhandsome,andoneofthefairestoftheNewZealandmenIeversaw;indeedIhaveseenbutfewwomenfairer.Hedidnotappearinaparticularlygoodtemper,andafteraboutfiveminutes'talkhesuddenlyarosefrom



hisseat,andbegantowalkupanddown,andstamp,talkingallthetimewithgreatanimation.Heatlastworkedhimselfapparentlyintoamostterriblepitchoffury,atwhichIonlylaughed.ThecauseofcomplaintwasmyhavingascendedTongadido.IsaidthataPakihacoulddonoharmingoingup,asnoplacewastabootoaPakiha;thatthetabooonlyappliedtoMowries;andfinally,thatifthemountainwasanatua,Imustbeagreateratua,orIcouldnothavegottothetopofit,andthatitwasallnonsensetoputhimselfinapassionwithme,asIdidnotcareforit;butifhewouldseethatthepeoplemadehastewiththecanoe,Iwouldgivehimsometobacco.Ithentookoutonefigforeachofhiscompanions,whosatstillallthetimewithoutsayingaword,andgavehimthreefigs.Itprovedamostastonishingsedative.Hequitechangedhistoneinaminuteandsatdownagain.Hecouldnothelpsaying,however,thatifhehadthoughtIcouldhavegoneupthemountain,hewouldhavepreventedmyevertryingit,andrequestedmenottotellanyotherPakihasofitonanyaccount.

Therewerenogreatthanksduetoanyofthemforlettingmego,whentheyhaddoneallintheirpowertomisdirectme;butIthoughtitaswelltoletthematterrest,andshookhandswithhim.

ThischiefwasthemostimportantmanImetwithinNewZealand;thatistosay,hissupremacyovertheotherchiefswasmorewidelyacknowledged.Thispersonalinfluencehad,Isuppose,beenacquiredbyhissuperiorcourageandphysicalstrength,forinrealityallthechiefsareequalbyhereditaryright,andinalltheothertribesitwouldbedifficulttosaywhowasthefirstchief.Here,how

ever,andthroughoutallthedifferentvillagesoftheTowpotribe,hewasacknowledgedasthe"greatchief."Hehadcrossedthelakeonpurposetoseeme,andIsupposewasratherannoyedtofindthatIthoughtofgoingawaywithoutshakinghandswithhim.Hesaidduringhisrage,thathe"didnoteatwhitemen;"aprettystronghintthattherewereplentytherethatwouldmakenodifficultyaboutthematter.Thiswastheonlytimethatanativeeversaidanythingtomemorethanimpertinent;andIbelievethatthegreaterpartofhisragewasputoninordertotryifhecouldnotfrightenme.

Inconsequenceoftheseinterruptions,itwasabouttwelveo'clockbeforewecouldproceed.Petertookleaveofmehere,ashewasgoingtoremaintosuperintendtheerectionofMr.Chapman'shouse.Hebroughtapigasapartinggift.Hewasamostexcellentspecimenofanative;hadbeenofgreatassistancetome;and

Iwasverysorrytopartfromhim.Igavehimaknife,somebeads,andaboutapoundoftobacco;buthisjoyatreceivingsuchamagnificentpresentwasnotsufficienttoclearuphiscountenance.Mr.Chapman,inspeakingofhim,afterwardssaidthathischieffaultlayinhisheart,whichwasassoftasapieceofdough,andthatheneverhadreasontofindfaultwithhim,exceptfornotknowinghowtosay"no"totheothernatives.

Wehadnotpaddledabovesevenoreightmileswhenthelakebecamesoroughthatwecouldnotgetonanyfurther.Wewereonalee-shore,withtherocksrisingperpendicularlymorethansixhundredfeetaboveus.Fortunatelywewereabletorununderanaturalarch,wherewegotsheltertilltherainmoderated;when,findingthereappearednochanceofthegaleabating,weencamped;there,fortunately,beingjustroomenoughundertherockstopitchthetent.Iwasmuchannoy

ed,andatthesametimeamused,atthisplacebythesuperstitionsofthenatives.Beingwetandcold,assoonasIgotoutofthecanoeItoldthemtomakeafire;accordinglytheytookthefiretheyhadinthecanoe,andputtingitasneartheedgeofthewateraspossible,blewitup,andaddedwhatsmalldrift-woodtheycouldfindonthebeach.Presentlyitbegantorainagain,andItookupalogandthrewitunderaprojectingrock,whereIsawanoldmatandsomesticksandrubbish;immediatelytheysetupaterribleoutcrythattheplacewastaboobecausesomebodyhaddiedthere.IsaidIdidnotcare;buttheygavemetounderstandthatifIpersisted,theyshouldalldie.Iassuredthemthatiftheydidnotmakethefire,norcomenearit,certainlynothingcouldharmthem,and



asformyselfIwasverywillingtoruntherisk.Atlasttheygavein,seeingIwasdeterminedtohavemyownway.Iwantedsomethingtoeat,andtoldthemtoputmypoton.Itwasbrought,andIplaceditonmyownfire;however,seeingthattheirswasbetterthanmine,Itookitoffandcarrieditovertotheirs.BeforeIcouldsetitdown,theysnatcheditoutofmyhand,andmadeaworseoutcrythanever.Theirfirewastaboo;itwasthefiretheyhadbroughtinthecanoe,andwasnotforcooking.Iwasgreatlyannoyed,andgavethemagoodscoldingfortheirnonsense,tellingthemissionaryladsthattheyoughttoknowbetterthanattendtosuchstuff.Atlengththeyagreedtomakeafireinearnest,especiallywhenIpointedouttothemthatunlesstheydidso,theywouldhavenothingtoeatmostlikelyforthatdayandthenext,asitwasnotprobabletheswellonthelakewouldsubsideveryquicklyaftersuchagaleofwind.Whentheyhadpitchedthetentandhadlightedthefire,Iallowedthemtokillapig,whichsetallright;atallevents,Iheardnomoreaboutthetaboo.Thegaleincreasedallnight,anditwasluckyIhadbrokenthetabooofthecornershelteredbytheprojectingrock,ofwhichthenativesnowgladlyavailedthemselves.Ithinkhaditnotbeenforthistheywouldhavediedofthewetandcold,astherewasnopossibilityofmakingashelterofbranches,&c.,whichtheyusuallydowhentheyhaveoccasiontosleepinthewoodsinbadweather.

March7th.Detainedatthetabooedplacealldaybytheheavyswell;thewindbegantosubsideaboutmid-day,andtherainceased.Foundseveralcuriousplants;anAndromeda,andaverycuriousRubuswithagiganticwoodyclimbingstem;theplantandleavescoveredwithbrightyellowprickles.

March8th.Obligedtomakeastartthismorning,althoughthelakewasstillveryrough,becausewehadeatenupallourpotatoes,andalmostallthepork.Wedidnot,however,advanceveryfar,asthelakecontinuedsoroughthatitwasverydangerous.Welandedatthefirstsmallbeachwecouldmake,andagainpitchedthetentonaccountoftherain:aftertwoorthreehours,asthewindhadfallenagreatdeal,weagainsetoff,andwerefortunateenoughtoreachourportinsafety.Aswewenton,youngPirataaskedmetofireagun,toinformhisfatherofourreturn.SoonafterIhadfired,wesawsmokeascending,asasignalthatwehadbeenobserved,andaboutthreeo'clockreachedtheplacefromwhichwehadoriginallyembarkedonTowpo.FoundoldPiratastillthere,andexpectingus:hehadgotanotherpigforusandplentyofpotatoes;hewasexceedinglygladtoseeusagain,andmynativesstayedupallnightrelatingmyexploitsinasce

ndingthemountain.Asthejourneywasoversofarasmyextrahandswereconcerned,Ipaidthemoff:therewereeightofthem,whomIhademployedforeightdays;andIgaveeachfivefigsoftobaccoandapipe,withwhichtheywereperfectlysatisfied.Ialsogavehalfafigeachtomyownnatives,andonetoRangey-onare(Rangi-o-nare),thechiefwhohadcomewithmefromRoturoa:thiswasratheratreattothem,asIhadkeptthemveryshortforthetwoorthreepreviousdays,inconsequenceoftheirbadbehaviour.IgaveoldPiratatwentyfigsandapipe,andaknifetoeachofhissons,whohadbeenwithmethewholetime,andwereasgood,quietladsasonecouldwishtomeetwith:asfortheoldchief,hewasreallyquiteagentlemanoftheoldschooltherewasaquiet,unpresumingdignityabouthimwhichnobodycouldfailtoobserveandadmire.Itwasamostkindly-meantthingoftheoldmantosendhissonswithme,andtheywereofgreatuseaslettersofintroduction;infact,offargreaterusethannineout.oft

enofsuchletterswhichIhavedelivered.

ThenativesaboutTowpowerenotsowell-lookingasetastheyareinsomeotherpartsoftheisland;thiswasmoreremarkableinthewomenthaninthemen:thehandsomestgirlsIsawweretwodaughtersofoldPirata,who,withtheirfinematswrappedroundtheirwaists,lookedquiteasgracefulasmanyofthepicturesofHindoogirlsIhaveseeninsimilardressesorratherIshouldsay,indressessimilarlyworn,forthethickNewZealandmatswouldnotbeverycomfortabledressesinIndia.Theolderwomen,andparticularlythosewhohavechildren,weartheirmatsovertheirshouldersinsteadofroundtheirwaists;whichisnotnears



ograceful,butbecomesthembetter,asIdonotconsidersucklingimprovestheformespeciallyamongthose,who,liketheNewHollanders,&c.,suckletheirchildrenovertheirshoulders.

March9th.Mymenwereveryloathtomovethismorning,butIsucceededatlastinstartingthem.ItookaveryaffectionateleaveofoldPirata;hissonsanddaughtersaccompaniedusforsomedistanceonourroadalongthelake-shore,andwhentheyleftus,therewassuchashakingofhandsandrubbingofnosesasdetainedusmorethanaquarterofanhour.Igaveeachoftheyoungladiesafewbluebeads,withwhichtheywerehighlydelighted,forinthispartofthecountrybeadshavenotyetlosttheirvalue.AsIunderstoodweweregoingbacktoPirata(thePa),althoughbyadifferentroad,Iwouldnotletthenativestakeanypotatoesorporkwiththem;butafterwalkingforseveralhours,Ifeltcertainwemusthavekeptitatsomedistance,orelsethatweweregoingaveryroundaboutway,inordertoaffordanexcuseforstayingthereallnight:however,oninquiryIfoundwewerenotgoingatalltowardsit,butdirecttotheWaikato,onourwayhomewards.Inowbegantorepentofnothavingallowedanyfoodtobebrought,asIknewwellitwasatremendousdistancetoanypotatoe-ground,andthatweshouldbehalf-starvedbeforewegotthere.Aboutmid-daywegainedtheroadbywhichwehadarrivedatPirata,andcontinuedinitforseveralhours:wethenstruckofftowardthesouth-east,soastocrosstheWaikatoatahigherpointthanwehaddonebefore,andourcourseceasedtobeoverthebarrenmoorwhichIhavebeforementioned.ThewoodwaspartofthesamebeltIhavealreadyspokenofasrunningparallelwiththecourseoftheWaikato.Atthepartwhere

wenowcrossed,therewasthefinestforestIhadseeninNewZealand;thetreeswerechieflyTotaraofgiganticsize,andgrewclosetogether.Thelandalsowasveryrichandlevel.IheresawsomeofthelargestFuchsiatrees(Pohutukataka)Ihadmetwithinthecountry;theywereatleastafootindiameter,thewoodisalmostaslightascork,theflowersareaboutthesizeofthoseofthecommonFuchsia,butnotsobrilliant;itisadeciduoustree.

Rangey-o-nareandmyself,havingnothingtocarry,hadpushedonverymuchfasterthantherestofourparty,andconsequentlyarrivedatourproposedhalting-placeaboutsixo'clock,wheretherewereahutandthemenandwomenwhomwehadfirstseenontheothersideoftheWaikato,whichriverwasnowaboutfourmilesdistant.Ifoundthatthesepeoplehadcrossedtheriveronpurposetomeetushere,doubtlessforthesakeofsomemoretobacco.Isuffereddreadfullyonth

isday'smarchfromsoreankles,which,fromfatigue,Ihadsooftenkicked,thattheywereentirelyraw,andseemedlikelytocontinuesoforsometime.Mybesthand,Moning-'aw,arrivedwiththetentaboutanhourafter;butIbegantofeartheothershadtakenadifferentroad,astheydidnotcomeuptilleighto'clock:theywerealldreadfullyfatigued,whichwasnottobewonderedat,astheyhadhadnothingtoeatfromsixinthemorning,exceptafewrawpotatoesandrawcraw-fish,perhapsattherateoftwopotatoesandonecraw-fisheachman.Ididnot,however,pitythemmuch,asiftheyhadnotdeceivedmeabouttheroadtheyintendedtotake,theymighthavearrivedattheresting-placelongbeforetheydid.

March10th.Wethisdayemployedallourstrengthtocarrypotatoes,asweknewthatnoneweregrowingwithintwodays'journeythewomencamewithusforthepurpo

seofcarryingourfirstday'smeals.WehadgreatdifficultyincrossingtheWaikato,owingtothesmallnessofthecanoeandthewantofpaddles;forthepeoplewhohadleftitthereforushad,Isuppose,hiddenthemsocompletely,thatwecouldnotfindtheminhalfanhour'ssearch,andconsequentlywereobligedtopullherforaboutfivemilesagainstacurrentlikeamill-stream.TheroadoverwhichwenowpassedtoRoturoa,Ihavealreadydescribed.

March12th.Lastnight,atabouttenmiles'distance,wecouldplainlysmellthehotspringsofRoturoa.WegotintothegreatPaatteno'clock,butwereobligedtoremaintherealldayinconsequenceofthewindnotpermittingustocrosso



vertoMr.Chapman'sinacanoe.Duringmyabsence,theWaikatopeoplehadattackedMuckatooatownonthesea-coasteastofTawranga,whichbelongedtotheRoturoapeople,whosaidtheythoughtMr.Chapmanwasgonetheretotrytomakepeace.Thisnewsmadememorethaneveranxioustogetovertothemission-house,andIexertedallmyeloquencetopersuadethenativestolaunchacanoe,buttonopurpose.Whenatlasttheychosetotakemeover,itwasaftertea-timeatMr.Chapman's.Ididnotthenknowwhatwastheirreasonforkeepingmetheresolong,asIwassuretheycouldhavecrossedthelakebefore,hadtheychosentodoso.IafterwardsdiscoveredtheyweredebatingwhetherornottheyshouldkillmytwoWaikatomen,Moning-awandMahia,andwereonlypreventedbytheoppositionofRangeyO'Nare,andtheconsiderationthattheywerebutslaves;ithadbeensuchanicepointthattheyhadactuallyloadedamuskettoshootthem.IamverygladIdidnotknowthisatthetime,forImighthavemademattersworsethantheyturnedout,asIwasuncommonlyangryatbeingkepttheresolong,andthehavingnothingtoeatalldayhadnotimprovedmytemper:althoughveryhungryIdidnotlikeeatingwhatwasdressedinthehotsprings;andtherewasnowoodtobehadinthewholePaforloveormoney.Ihadaninstanceto-dayofthegreatvaluethenativessometimessetontheirornamentsofgreenstonemaries(meri),asthewhitescallthem.IsawonewhichIadmired,whichwasnotsoelaboratelycarvedassomeare,butsimplyastraightpieceaboutfiveincheslongandhalfaninchwide;onmyaskingthenativetosellit,hehadthemoderationtodemandmydouble-barrelgunforit,norwouldhelowerhisprice:thiswasinfactbutanotherwayoftellingmethathewouldnotsellitatall,ithavingbeenapresentfromadeceasedfriend.Thesepiecesofjudemightbeveryeasily

imitatedinEngland,butIdonotthinktheywouldthenbevaluedbythenativesmorethanlargebeads,oranythingelseofthekind,astheirvaluecertainlyarisesfromtheirhavingbeenmadebyafriendwhoisdead,andgivenbyhimtothepossessorsomewhatinthesamewaywevalueakeepsake;butthefeelingisofamuchmoresuperstitiouscharacterwiththesepeoplethanwithus.

IcannotdescribethedelightIfeltinagainvisitingahousebelongingtooneofmyowncountrymenheightenedbytheextremelykindmannerinwhichMr.andMrs.Chapmanreceivedme.Ishallneverforgetthepleasureofthatevening.Theteaandbreadweregreatdelicaciestome,asIhadnottastedeitherforseveraldays,althoughIhadbeenverysparingofthesupplyofbreadItookwithme,andhadmanagedtokeepitmuchlongerthanIotherwiseshould,bycuttingitintoslicesanddryingitbeforethefire:myteaandsugarhadbeenwashedawayinc

rossingTowpo.Mr.ChapmanwasdelightedtolearnthatIhadbeenabletoascendtothesummitofTongadido,asthenativeshadalwaysassertedtohimthatitwasimpossible)inconsequenceoftheprecipitousnatureoftheascent;butheintendedtotryitwhenhenextwentthere:hesaidthenewsofmyhavingascendedthemountainwouldsoonbecarriedallovertheisland,asindeedIfoundafterwardsithad.ThereportoftheattackonMuckatoowasquitetrue,andatthetimeIarrived,severalyoungnativeswhohadbeendespatchedthereonmissionarybusinesshadbeentakenprisoners,anditwasexpectedthatsomehadbeenkilled:underallthecircumstances,Mr.ChapmansaidheshouldnotfeeljustifiedinallowingmetoproceedtoTawranga,untilhehadreceivedfurthernewsofthewarparty,whoweresaidtobeactuallyoccupyingtheroadIshouldhavetotravel.IaccordinglypassedseveraldaysatRoturoa,andemployedmyselfverypleasantlyinexaminingthedifferenthotspringsandsolfatarasaroundthelake;atthe

sametimeImadeseveralvaluableadditionstomycollectionofplants.

March13th,Tuesday,toWednesday,March2lst.EmployedthesedaysinvisitingallthemostremarkablepartsofRoturoa.Theboiling-springsextendoverthewholecountryaroundthelake,andaresomeofthemverylarge;thegreatoneatthePapoursforthastreamofwaterfourfeetwideandonefootdeep;thewatersareperfectlyclear,andnearlytasteless;theyare,however,slightlystyptic,andmanyoftherocksneararecoveredwithanefflorescenceverylikeconcretesulphuricacid,butis,Isuppose,analuminoussaltwithagreatexcessofacid.ThenativesofRoturoahaveverybadteeth,saidtobetheconsequenceofalways



eatingtheirfoodcookedinthesestreams;butIsawmanyofthemherewithasgoodteethaselsewhere:therewasonegirlatMr.Chapman'swhohad,Ithink,asfineasetofteethasIeverbeheld,andshewasaltogethersobeautifulthatIverymuchwishedforherlikeness,tohavesenttoEnglandasafavourablespecimenofNewZealandbeauty.IdiscoveredinthewoodshereaspeciesofEugenia,bearinganeatablefruit,andamostbeautifulepiphytalorchideousplant[12],withaverypowerfulperfume:ifthisplantwouldgrowoutofdoorsinEngland,asIthinklikely,itwouldbequiteanewfeatureingardens.Iboughtfortwobluebeadsacockatooorratherparrot(nestor),themostcommonbirdinNewZealand,andgoodtoeatthenativescatchthembymeansoftameones:theymakealittleshelterinthewoods,andthenhidethemselvesinit,withastickinonehand,andastring,towhichthebirdistied,intheother;theythenteasetheparrot,whichmakesagreatnoise,whentheotherscometofighthim,andareknockeddown.Itisstrangesoslyabirdshouldbecaughtinsuchaway,asIcouldnevermanagetogetnearenoughtoshootone.Thetameparrotsor"cacas"havealwaysanornamentalringroundoneoftheirlegs,whichisgenerallymadeofhumanbone.

Wednesday,March21st.LeftRoturoa.Thereportsaboutthewar-partyweresocontradictorythatIdoubtedtheirtruth,andbeinganxioustoreturntoTawranga,Ideterminedtoruntheriskofencounteringthem.AsIlandedfromtheboatwhichMr.Chapmanhadprovidedforme,awomanverycoollyaskedmeifIdidnotwantawife;thiswasratherabadsampleofthemoralsoftheRoturoapeople,andparticularlyasseveralofthenativesbelongingtoMr.Chapmanwerepresent,and

wouldtakebackthereporttotheisland:notbeinga"marryingman,"Ibeggedtobeexcused.WepassedoverthesameroadwehadtravelledonourwaytoRoturoawithoutmeetingwithanyadventuretillafterwehadencampedforthenight.Aboutteno'clock,asIwaslyinginbed,IthoughtIheardadogsniffingclosetomyhead,andongettingquicklyupIheardsomethingmakearustlingnoisethroughthebushes;thisalarmedmeverymuch,asitwascertaintheremustbesomeonenear,ortherewouldbenodog;IaccordinglyawokemycompanionsandtoldthemwhatIhadheard,whichwasconfirmedatthesametimebythehowlingofadogatashortdistance;theyweremuchfrightened,butsaiditwasnousedoinganythingtillthemorning;andthatIneednotbeafraid,astherewasnodangerofmybeingkilledeveniftheywere,whichIthoughtbuttooprobable.MytwoWaikatos,MahiaandMoning-aw,wereperfectlycomfortableaboutit;itwasnowtheirturntobeso,asthepeopledodgingus,ifany,belongedtotheirownt

ribe,whilethesewhohadbeensoeasywhilethedebatewasgoingonatRoturoaonmyfinalreturntothePa,wereingreatalarm;Iwas,however,surprisedtofindthemallasleepabouttwohoursafterwards,whileI,whowasinnodangerwhatever,couldnotrestfortheremainderofthenight.ItwouldhavebeenashockingthingtohavereflectedthatIhadcausedthedeathofsomanyhumanbeings,merelybymyselfishperversenessinsettingofffromaplaceofsafetyinoppositiontotheadviceofthosewhoknewthedangersomuchbetterthanIdid,andwhosokindlyandanxiouslyhadwarnedmeagainstit.Nomorealarms,however,occurredduringthenight,butwewereverycarefulnottomakemuchfireinthemorning,lestthesmokeshouldbetrayustoanyoutlyingwar-party.

Thursday,March22nd.WeencampedintheeveningatthesameplaceasonourfirstnightfromTawranga.Weweretheninashelteredplace,andalthoughwecouldh

avegoneseveralmilesfarthertowardsourjourney'send,wethoughtthispreferable,theremainingpartoftheroadbeinganopenplain,whereweshouldhavebeenexposedbythelightofourfiresfortwentymilesaround,andmorningmighthavefoundusallwithourthroatscut.Wepassedduringtheday,withsomeanxiety,theroadwhichledfromtheWaikatotoMuckatoo,wherethewarpartywassaidtohaveencampedwhilewewereatRoturoa;butnowar-partyhadbeenthere,forthepathrequiredgoodeyestodiscoverit.Wefoundthemarksofthreepeoplehavingsleptnotfarfromourlastencampment,andtherewasnodoubtthatthedogwhichcausedussomuchalarmbelongedtothem.WeafterwardslearnttheywereTawrangapeoplereturningfromRoturoa,andhadsetoutfromadifferentpar



tofthelakeonthesamedayasourselves.

Friday,March23rd.ThehottestdayIfeltinNewZealand.Thermometer65.TheviewofTawrangaasyouapproachitfromthelandsideisverybeautiful;Manganorie,thesolitaryhillattheentranceoftheharbour,isasplendidobject;wereitnecessaryitmightbemadeasecondGibraltar.WhenIarrivedatthemissionarystationtherewerethreevesselsintheharbour,sothatIdidnotexpectmuchdifficultyingettinguptotheBayofIslands.Ialsolearntthatalargewar-party,orTower,wasonitswayfromMuckatoototheWaikato,andwasexpecteddaily,andthattherewasnotruthinthereportofapartyhavingbeenbetweenTawrangaandRoturoa.

Saturday,March24th.FindingtherewasnochanceofeitherofthevesselsgoingtotheBayforaweekormore,IwouldwillinglyhaveexploredtheWaikatocountry,butwasdissuadedbythemissionaries,whosaidIwascertainofbeingrobbed,asawar-partyneverrespectedpersons,andthateventhemissionariesthemselveswouldbestrippediftheyweretofallinwithapartyonitsmarch.TheysostronglydissuadedmefromgoingthatIwaitedforseveraldays;butastherewasnofurthersignofthe"Tower"Ibegantogetimpatient,andatlastmadeupmymindtosetoffandruntheriskofmeetingthem.Iprovidedmyselfwithasortofsafe-conductfromthewifeofawhitemanatTawranga,whowasaWaikatowomanandachief,andagreatfriendofmine;andalsoItookawhitemanwithmewhoknewthepeoplewell.Itwas,however,obviousthat"Mary"or"A-poi,"thewomanIhavementioned,didnotplacemuchconfidenceintheforbearanceofher

friends,evenwhenvisitingthemwithakindofletterofintroductionfromher,forshesentmebyaroadatleastthirtymilesoutofmyway,fornootherreasonthatIknowofthanthatImightnotruntheriskofmeetinghercountrymen.

Thursday,March29th.Wewerenearlyalldaydoingwhatfourhours'goodpaddlinginacanoewouldhavedone,fromtheunwillingnessofmycrew.OurroutewasalongtheharbourofTawranga,whichextendsformanymilestothenorthward,almostasfarasMercuryBay;itisalong,narrow,andveryshallowchannel,formedbyseveralflatislandslyingclosetothecoast,andlaiddownonthechartsaspartofthemainland.Severalrivershavetheiroutletsintoit,uponeofwhichwewentandencampedforthenight.WefoundthatapartyfromMattamattahadoccupiedtheplace(whichwasthefirstfordoftheriver)justbeforeus,and

weweregladtofindthemactuallygone;theyhad,however,leftsuchmultitudesoffleasbehindthemthatnextmorningIwasamassofredspots;itwasalessontomeafterwardsnevertooccupyadesertedencampmentofthenatives.Thecliffswepassedonthisday'sjourneywereverycurious,theywereabouttwentyorthirtyfeetfromthewater,andconsistedofperfectlyhorizontallayersofaclayresemblingchalkinappearance,butcomposedofdecayedpumice,withoccasionalinterveninglayersofablackvegetablesubstanceevidentlypassingintocoal.Oneoftheseamswasaboutafootthick,itwastheunderone,buthadnoconsistency,andwhenpresseditcrumbledinthehandsoastodiscoveritscomponentparts,whichwereleaves,twigs,andseed-vesselsofplantsnowformingtheflowersoftheisland;thismustbeasrecentacoalformationasmaybeseeninanypartoftheworld.Thenativessaidthattheyuseditasfuel,buttheycannotdosotoanyextent,asthetroubleofprocuringitwouldbegreaterthanwo

uldberequiredtogetwood,owingtoitssituation,atorratherbelowtheedgeofhigh-watermark.

Friday,March30th.Ourroadto-daylayoverarangeofmountainscalledtheArrohaw;theascentonthis,theeasternside,isgradual,butinmanyplacesontheothersidealmostawall;thewholerangewasthicklywooded,denotingaverygoodqualityofland.IherefirstsawthegreatDracophyllum;itformedasmalltreeaboutsixinchesindiameter,andtwentyfeethigh;itisoneofthemostcuriousplantsintheworld;theleavesgrowintuftsattheendsofthebranches,justasinthedragontree(Dracæna),andarethesameshape,butinthisspecies



theyareelegantlyreflexed,likethefeathersofasoldier'splume;theyareafootlongandaninchbroadatthebase.Thebunchesofflowers(whichIdidnotsee,theplantbeinginseed)are,Ibelieve,white;aslargeasmoderatebunchesofgrapes,andofthesameshape.IhaveverylittledoubtthatitwouldgrowoutofdoorsinEngland,butcouldnotsucceedingettinganyripeseed.Ialsosawhereforthefirsttimethegigantictreefern(Mummuke),theyoungfrondsofwhichareeatenbythenatives,aswellasthesoftpartoftheheadofthetrunk,correspondingtothecabbageofthepalm.Initsnaturalstateitisveryslimy,sothatifyoubiteit,youwillfindsomedifficultyinspittingitoutagain;butbylongbakinginthenativeovens,itbecomesofsomewhattheconsistencyofbakedapple,whichitwouldresembleintasteifitwereatallacid.Nevertheless,itisbynomeansdisagreeable.Imeasuredsomefrondstwenty-twofeetlong,andatthebaseeightandahalfinchesincircumference;itfarexceedsinbeautyanyotherfern-treeIhaveeverseen;thelargesttrunkswerenotmorethaneightinchesdiameter.Iwassurprisedtolearnthatfern-treesareveryeasilytransplanted;infact,ifcutoffwithanaxe,andthetrunkburiedaboutafoot,itwillrarelyfailofgrowingafterashorttime.Thisrangeofmountainswaslevelatthetop,andwhenviewedfromadistanceappearedlikeawall.Ihoweverfounditdifficulttodeterminewhenwewereonthehighestpartofthepass,aswetraversedmanyminorhillsandvalleyswhileactuallyonthetopoftherange.Iwasatlastmuchpleasedtogetaglimpseofagreatplaintothewestward,whichshowedatalleventswehadatlengthactuallypassedthehighestpart.Iimaginethisrangetobeabout4000feethighatthenorthend;itbecomesverygraduallylowertowardsthesouth,butstillkeepsitswall-likea

ppearance:onthisrangeaswellasonseveralhighhillsalongthecoast,thereareverysingularpillarlikerocksstandingingroupson.thesummit,someofthemcannotbelessthanahundredfeethigh,andyetappearmerepillars.IregretthatIwasneverabletoapproachanyofthemsoastodiscoverofwhatkindofrocktheywerecomposedtheyalwaysappearedtobecompletelycoveredwithbushes,sothattheycouldnotbeclustersofpillarsofcolumnarbasalt,whichwouldhaveremainednakedfromtheimperishabilityofitsnature.

Atonepointofto-day'sjourneyonanarrowneckofland,whichwasfarfrombeingthehighest,Isawtheoceantotheeastward,whereitappearedclosebeneathmyfeetandwestwardaboutfiftymilesdistance,ataplacecalledCarwiaorCarfweaforIdonotknowthecorrectorthographyofthename,whichisaverypuzzlingonetospell,asweharenoletterstorepresentthepeculiarblendingofth

e"r"withsomeothersoundbeforethe"w,"itmightaswellbean"h"asan"f,"butmostEuropeans,tomakethemattereasy,callitatonce"Carfeea."Wemetapartyofaboutadozennatives,chieflywomen,whoweregoingtojointhe"Tower;"theysaidthatthegreatpartyhadleftMattamattathreedaysbefore,sothatweweresurenottomeetthem,apieceofintelligenceIconfessIwasnotsorrytoreceive.

Saturday,March31st.Continuedourdescentofthemountain,andenteredthegreatplainoftheThames,or"Waiho,"themostsplendidpieceofcountryIhavemetwithforthepurposesofcolonization.Thisplainis,Ishouldthink,aboutonehundredmileslong,andvaryingfromtwentytothirtybroad;itrunsnorthandsouth,beingboundedontheeastbytheperpendicularwalloftheArrohaw,andonthewestbythemountainsonthewestcoast.TheriverThamesrunsthroughit,

andisdeepenoughtobenavigatedbytrackboatsorlightsteamersforagreatdistance.AttheplaceIcrosseditwasaboutfivefeetdeepandonehundredyardswide;thestreamishoweversostrong,inspiteoftheapparentlyperfectlevelofthecountry,thatitwouldbeuselesstoattemptascendingitbyoars,orsails.Thewholeplain,withverylittleexception,isclearofwood:itisabundantlywatered,andwouldIthinkbeoneofthemostsplendidsituationsforacolonythatcouldbefoundinthewholeworld.Itmustnotbeconsideredthatthisplainbelongstotheriver,foritisevidentthatsuchisnotthecase,asitisimpossiblesoinsignificantarivercouldhavescoopedoutsuchavalley.Theriver,itistrue,runsthroughit,butisalsoformedinitbytheinnumerable



streamswhichrunoffitsmountainousbarriersonbothsides;itinfacttakesitsriseintheplain,andconsequentlycouldnothaveformedit.Thebodyofthesoilis,asareallthebestsoilsiuthecountry,decayedpumice;butinseveralparts,moreespeciallyontheeastoftheriver,Isawlargetractscoveredwithstones:thesetracts,however,formedameretrifleincomparisonwiththegoodparts.Thechieffaultoftheplainatpresentisitsexcessivewetness,aboutonehalfisacompletemarsh;butnothingwouldbeeasierthantodrainit;andwhichoughttobedone,ataverytriflingexpense,astherearedeepwater-coursesrunningthroughtheplaininalldirectionsmuchlowerthanthemarshyspots;buttheyhavealwayselevatedbanks,whichpreventtheiractingasdrainsfortheportionsoflandwhichtheytraverse,butassoonasthebankwascutthrough,thelandwoulddrainitself.Thelongestmarshwehadtocrossto-daywasaboutfourmiles;thenativeswantedtocarrymeastheyhadpreviouslydone,butIwasafraidoftheirfallingwithmeandmakingmedirtierthanIshouldbeinwadingthroughthemudwithouttheirassistance.Inearlystuckfastseveraltimes,andwasobligedtotiemyshoeswithflax,inordertokeepthemonmyfeet:themudwasinmanyplacesthreefeetdeep,ofasoftcustard-likeconsistence,andofalightbrowncolour,fromthedecomposedvegetablematter.IwasheartilyrejoicedwhenIwastoldwewereneartheend,whensuddenlyabunchofreedsonwhichIhadreliedgaveway,andIsunkuptomymiddle,sothatIwasobligedtocallassistancetogetout.AfterpassingthemarshwewentthroughagroveofaboutamilesquareofKaikatoraandTotaratreesofenormoussize.TheKaikatoraswereloadedwiththeirbeautifulscarletandblackfruit,whichlookedlikeablazeofflowers.Herethenativesbroughtmetoapool,sayingthatIoug

httowash,inordertobecleanwhenwecametothePa,whichwascloseby.Iwasmuchamusedatthispieceofvanity,whichIhumoured,becauseitwasagreeabletomyself,andnotthatIcaredhowIlookedonmyarrivalbeforethecriticsofMattamatta.Thenativesitwasevidentdidnotlikeappearingasguidestoashabbyfellow,andthoughtitwouldraisetheirconsequencewiththeirfriendsifIlookedmorelikeagreatmanthanwasusuallythecasewiththeirvisitors.

Mattamattaissituatedonaslightelevationinthemiddleoftheplain,andisaPaofsomeconsequence.Itschiefdefencebesidesthestockadesconsistsinthemarsheswhichalmostsurroundit.TherewasamissionestablishmentatMattamatta,(orasthemissionariescallit,Matamata,)butitwasabandonedinconsequenceofthebadconductofthenatives,whorobbedtheresidentmissionary(Rev.A.M.Brown,nowofTawranga);theyarenowverydesirousofpersuadingmission

ariestoreturn,butdonotdeservetosucceed.Inconsequenceofthewar-partyhavingdrainedthepopulation,therewerenonebutoldmen,youngwomen,andchildren,inMattamatta.Thewomenwerethebest-lookingsetIeversaw;theywerealmostallstrikinglyhandsome.Thenativesofthisplacehaveaveryindifferentcharacter,sothatalthoughitismanyyearssincewhitemenfirstvisitedit,therewasbutoneresidentatthistime,andhewasfromhome.Asitisoneofthebestplacesintheislandforbuyingpigs,itisevidenttheremustbesometruthinthereportsoftheirbadpropensities,ormorepersonswouldventuretheretosecuresogoodaharvest.Thenativewhohadchargeofthisman'shouse,permittedusthefreeuseofit,asifithadbeenhisown.Itwasaterriblyruinousplace,builtmanyyearssince,whenMattamattawasagreatmartforflax.Intheplainsnear,Isawthefinestspecimensoftheflax-plantIevermetwith;theywereatleasttwelvefeethigh,coveredmilesoftheplain,andweregrow

inginallthemoistplacesnotactuallybog.ThepeoplebroughtlargebasketsfulloftheberriesoftheKaikatora(Dacrydiumexcelsum)forsale.Iboughtthemattherateofoneinchoftobaccoforabushel:theseberriesareverylikethoseoftheyew,butnotslimy:theyaregoodtasted,andformagreatpartofthefoodofthenativesduringtheseasoninthoseplaceswherethetreesareabundant;theyareproducedinsuchquantitiesastogivethetreesascarletappearance.

April1st.BegantoretraceourstepstowardsTawranga;thefirstfewmileswereoverthesameroadwehadbeforetravelled.Severalnativeswhoweregoingtojoi



nthe"Tower"accompaniedus.Iwasmuchamusedatseeingtheirwivescrosstheriver;Ihadcrossedbeforetheyarrived,makingagiganticchiefcarrymyclothesinordertokeepthemdry.Idressed,andsatdownonthebanktoawaitthearrivaloftherestoftheparty.Whenthewomencametheyloosenedtheirmats,andthenstoopeddownattheedgeofthewater,intowhichtheywalked,stillstooping,soastoshownothingbuttheirknees;astheygotintodeeperwatertheygraduallystraightenedthemselvesuntilatlasttheywerechindeep,stillholdingtheirmatsabovetheirheads;whentheygotintotheshallowpartontheothersidetheyagainbegantostoop,andatlastdroppedtheirmatsintheirproperplacesandsteppedashore;appearingasmuchdivertedasIwasatthegreatpainstheyweretakingtopreservedecency.Themenhadnosuchdifficulty;fortheycoollystripped,andwalkedintothewaterjustasifnowomanhadbeenpresent.Weencampedatthefootofthemountain,nearawaterfallwhichhadbeenconspicuousforthelasttwodays,andclosetotheplacewhereMr.Plattwasrobbed,(seereportofthecommitteeoftheHouseofLords,)andlefttofindhiswayhometoTawrangainhisshirt.The"Tower"hadmadethisaresting-place,andtherewereshedsenougherectedtoaccommodateaboutfivehundredmen;theplaceasusualwasswarmingwithfleas.Theencampmentwasputupwithoutmuchregardtoorder;thegreaterpartofitconsistedofshedsaboutfourfeethigh,openononeside,andverylong;onewasahundredandfiftyfeet,andjustwideenoughforamantolieacross.Itwasexceedinglycold,andwoodwasveryscarce,thewar-partyhavingconsumedeverybitthatcouldeasilybeprocured.Themountainrosealmostperpendicularlybehindus,andwasbareforasmalldistancefromeachsideofthepath,everywhereelseitwasthicklyclothedwithwood.Theriv

erfromthewaterfall,whichIhavebeforespokenof,ranwithinfiftyyardsofourfeetinadeepravine,thesidesofwhichweremorethicklycoveredwithfern-treesthanIeversawelsewhere.Ithinkthattheglowingtermsinwhichmanyspeakofthefernsarenotborneoutbytheirgeneralappearance;itisonlywhenseenfromabovethattheyaresuchsurpassinglybeautifulobjects;seenfrombelowIdonotthinktheyareequalinbeautytothegeneralityofpalms.WhilethesupperwascookingItriedtoreachawaterfallinthevicinityofourrestingplace,butwasbenightedonthemountain,andshouldprobablyhavelostmywayhaditnotbeenforthefiresofthepartybelowme.Igotfarenoughtoseethattheonlypossiblewaytoreachtheedgeofthefallwouldbetowalkdownthebedoftheriver;forhowgreatadistanceIcouldnotthentell,butwasdeterminedtotrynextmorning.

April2nd.Thenativesinformedmethattherivercrossedtheroadweshouldtravelto-dayatnogreatdistancefromthefall,soIacceptedoftheirguidanceinpreferencetohuntingoutamoredirectroutethroughthewood.Abouthalfamileafterreachingtheedgeofthewood,onthetopofthehill,wefoundtheriver,whichwasaboutfiftyfeetwideandkneedeep.IwadeddownittillIreachedtheedgeofthefall,whichisatleastfivehundredfeetperpendicular;and,althoughnotafallofmuchconsequence,sofarastheamountofwaterisconcerned,itisthelargestIhaveseeninNewZealand;andindeed,ifitwereinEurope,wouldbeconsideredwellworthtravellingmanymilestosee.Iwasmuchastonishedatsoconsiderableastreamrunningfromwhatappearedsonarrowaridgeofland,forseenfromtheplaintheArrohawrangeappearsamerewall.ItwasnottillIhadtravelledforthewholedayonnearlylevellandacrosstherangethatIcouldbelievemyselfsomuchdeceived:everyquarterofanhourasIwent

onIexpectedtogetaglimpseofthesea,butdidnotreachtheotherdeclivitytillaboutfourp.m.Thewholeoftherangeisthicklytimbered,andthesoilgoodandwellwateredwithsmallstreams;theascentfromtheland(west)sideis,unfortunately,nearlyimpracticableforcarriagesofanydescription,butonthesea(east)sideitismuchmoregentle.Theroadwasdreadfullybad,owingtothepassageofsolargeabodyofmenoverthesoftclayeysoil,andinsonarrowapath;fortheymusthavetravelled,asusual,insinglefile.

AttheedgeofthefallIwasastonishedbyasplendidviewofthewholerangeofTongadido,consistingoffivepeaksallcoveredwithsnow.TheylaynearlyS.



S.W.ofthisplace;whichcomparedwithitsrelativeposition,ascertainedpreviouslybyme,ofeastbynorthofCapeEgmont(whenIwasatTongadido,CapeEgmontborewestbysouth),willgiveitsexactposition.Tongadidoseemedatagreatdistance,lookinglikeamerewhitecloud,forwhichitmighthavebeeneasilytakenbutforitsdistinctoutline.Aswepassedonourroadto-day,themarksofthepassageofthewar-partybecamemoreandmorerecent,andweexpectedmomentarilytoovertakesomeofthem,butfortunatelydidnot.Weencampedbythesideofastream,closetotheplacewhereweemergedfromthewood,onthebaretractoflandwhichskirtsthesea-coastinthispartofthecountry.Someofmynativeswentontoseewherethe"Tower"was,andreportedthatitwasoverthehillatthebottomofwhichwewereencamped.Iwasratheralarmedatthisnews,thinkingtheymightcomebackandrobusinthemorning,inordertogetthemselvesintopracticefortheirintendedexploitatMuckatoo;theydidnothowevermolestus,andwepassedthenightinquietness.

April3rd.WewerenotnowabovesixorsevenmilesfromTawranga,oratleastfromOtumoititheplacefromwhichIhadstartedbutitwasimpossibletogettherewithoutpassingthroughthewar-party;andIpushedon,morethanhalfexpectingtoberobbed,andperhapsstripped.Wecameupwithitatacreekwhichwehadoccasiontocross;theyhadencampedontheothersideofthiswater,andwewereobligedtoaskthemforacanoetocrossitin.Abouttwiceasmanyaswerewantedimmediatelystartedwithtwocanoes,andIwascompelledtodividemythingsbetweenthem,inordertopreventaquarrel,whichtheyseemedmuchdisposedtopickifpossible.Ibecamemorecomfortable,however,whenIsawamongthecrewo

foneoftheboatsachiefofMonotapoo,whomIhadseenatTawranga,andknewtobeaverygoodfellow.OnlandingIwasimmediatelysurroundedbyalltherabbleoftheparty,andhadhardworktokeepmytemperwiththem;thechiefsasusualsaidnothing,andkeptaloof,butthemobofslavesandboysbegantotwitchmyclothesandgunasIpassedalong,andmakeallkindsofimpertinentremarks;however,IwalkedonasfastasIcouldundertheguidanceofmyMonotapoofriend,andafteraboutamilegotridofallbutthemostdeterminedofmypersecutors.Wethencametoanothercreekmuchwiderthanthelast,whereIwascarriedacrossontheshouldersofoneofthenatives:hereIlostmytwobestmenMahiaandMoning-awwhoweredetainedbytheirfriendstohaveahowl,accordingtotheircustomofshowinggladnesswhentheymeet.Iwasverysorrythatthesefellowsstayedbehind;because,beingthesteadiestandmosttrustworthyofmyfollowers,Ihadgiventhemmydriedplantstotakecareof,andIthoughtittoomuch

toexpectthattheywouldbeabletopreventsuchaprizeasadozenquiresofcartridge-paperfrombeingdistributedamongsttheirfriends.Iconsequentlygaveupaslostmymuch-prizedspecimens,andwasproportionatelyoverjoyedwhenIsawthementerOtumoitiabouttwohoursafterme,withtheirloadsquitesafe.

PeopleinEnglandimaginethatsplendidspecimensofcarvingarecommonamongtheNewZealanders,butsuchisfarfrombeingthecase;theonlyspecimenImetwithinthecountry,whichIthoughtworthhaving,wasapaddleIsawto-day;itwasmostbeautifullycarvedallovertheblade,andItriedtobuyit,andevenofferedtenpoundsoftobaccoforit,butwithoutsuccess.Itwas"taboo,"andIdaresaythevalueofonehundredpoundswouldnothaveboughtitatthistime,asitwas,Iunderstood,connectedinsomewaywiththepresentwar.

Whilecrossingonecreekwherewehadtowadeabovehalfamile,anativetoldmeoneofthewomenwastattooedbehindlikethemen.Iaskedherifitwasthecase,andshesaid,yes,andthatifIwouldwaitandlethergetonalittleahead,shewouldshowit,whichsheaccordinglydidtomygreatedification.Itisaveryrarethingforwomentobetattooedanywherebutaboutthelipsandchin,andthiswasquiteacuriosity.Iusedtothinkitratherornamentalinthemen,butwhatitsusecanbeinawomanIcannotimagine,astheyarealwayscovered:thewomenareoftenquitecoveredwithbluemarks,whichmightbecalledtattooinginEngland;itisofthesamekindassailorsaresofondofprickingintotheirarms;butitisatotallydifferentthingfromtheelaborateengravingon



aNewZealander'sfaceorrump:inasmuchasinonecasetheskiniscutandremainsinthesamepatternasthestains,andintheotherthemarksdonotatallaffectthesmoothnessoftheskin.IhaveseenthearmsandbodiesoftheNewZealandwomensocoveredwiththesepowerfulbluemarks,thattheylookedasiftheyhadonthematight-fittingfiguredchintzdress.

April4th.ThewarpartydonotseemmuchinclinedtofighttheyhavebeenafortnightadvancingadistancewhichoughttohavebeeneasilytravelledintwodaystheydidnotreachOtumoititillthisevening,andwill,Iamhappytosay,leaveitearlyto-morrowmorning,inordertosavethetide,asdidtheynotleaveatthetimeoflowwater,theywouldhaveaboutadozenmilesfurthertomarch.Althoughthewar-partyareperfectlyfriendlywiththeTawrangatribe,andinfact,areatpresentfightingthebattlesofthelatter,yetthewhitepeopleresidingatTawrangaarenotquitecomfortable,andhavetakenallpossibleprecautionstopreventrobbery,eventothelockingoftheirstockades,andsecuringinthemsuchbulkyarticlesascanoesandboats,whichwouldotherwisehavebeenveryprobablytakenawayordestroyed.

Isawthiseveningagrandwar-dance,andcertainlythinkitwouldbesufficienttostriketerrorintotheheartofanyman.Imagineabodyofabout3000nearlynakedsavages,madeashideousaspossiblebypaint,standingincloseranks,andperformingasortofrecitativeofwhattheywoulddowiththeirenemiesiftheycouldlayholdofthem.Theystoodinfourcloselines,onebehindtheother,withasolitaryleader(asitappeared)infrontattherightendoftheline.

Thisleaderwasawomanwhoexcelledintheartofmakinghideousfaces(viz.poorkun).Thefeethadbutasmallpartoftheworktoperform,astheydidnotbreaktheirlines,butmerelykeptupakindofstampinexcellenttimewithonefoot;theirarmsandhandshadplentytodo,astheyweretwistedintoallpossiblepositionstokeeptunewiththerecitative;theireyesallmovedtogetherinthemostcorrecttimeitispossibletoconceiveandsomeoftheperformerspossessedthepowerofturningthemsofardownwards,thatonlythewhiteswerevisible.ThiswasparticularlythecasewiththewomanwhomIhavespokenofastheleader;shewasaremarkablyhandsomewomanwhenherfeatureswereintheirnaturalstate,butwhenperformingshebecamemorehideousthananypersonwhohasnotseensavagescanpossiblyimagine:shewasreallyverymuchlikesomeofthemostforbiddingoftheHindooidols,theresemblancetoastatuebeingrenderedmoreperfectbythepupillesseyes,themostdisagreeablepartofsculpture.Thewo

rdsoftheirsongIcouldnotgetatranslationof,butIunderstoodthattheymerelydescribedhowtheywouldkillandeattheirenemies,aswellastheattack,thefiringofmuskets,&c.Theintonationcouldhardlybeconsideredmusical;buttheywouldrepeatanumberofwordsinashortstaccatomanner,andthendwellononewithageneralhiss,whichwouldmakeone'sbloodruncold:atothertimesthesoundwouldbestillmorehorrid,butonethatitisimpossibletodescribe,itwasnot,accordingtomyidea,ayell,butsomethingfarmoredreadful.Oneoftheirhisses,however,remindedmeofthesoundofreturningramrods,whenwellperformedbyalargebodyofsoldiers.Icanonlydescribethemannerinwhichthewordswererepeated,bysupposingtheywereaccordingtothetimeofapieceofmusic,butallinonenote;forthedifferenthisses,groans,audibleshudders,&c.,couldhardlyberepresentedbyanykindofmusicalintervals.Thewholeperformancewassoperfectlyhorridthat,althoughIampossessedofstron

gnerves,Icouldnotrepressashudder,andmyhairalmoststoodonend,andIcertainlyfeltverygladthatIwasonadifferentsideofthePafromthem.Thewholeperformancetookupaboutanhour:afterwardstheyhadsomespeechifying;andthentheyseparated.Ibelievetheyhavethesewar-dances,&c.inordertokeepuptheircouragetothestickingpoint,astheyaresuchcowardsthattheywouldneverfightwithoutsomesuchadventitiousexcitement.ThenextmorningtheyhadallleftOtumoiti,andhadreachedMonotapoo,anothervillageabouttwomilesoff,andwheretheystayedallthetimeIwasatTawranga.ThemissionariesusedeveryendeavourtopreventtheirgoingontoMuckatoo,butwereunsuccessful.Iafterwardsheardthattheyreallyneverdidreachthatplace,andconseque



ntlytherewasnofightafteralltheirgrandpreparations;provingthatIwasrightwhenIthoughttheywerenothalfinclinedforit,ortheywouldhavemovedonrathermorerapidlythanfivemilesaday:infact,IbelievetheystoppedatMonotapooonpurposetoallowthemissionariestopersuadethemnottogoon.IembarkedonboardtheschoonerColumbine,belongingtothemission,andafterastormypassageofthreedaysarrivedintheThames.Idonotknowwhethertheautumnsarealwayssocoldinthispartoftheworld,butthisonewasdreadfullyso.IamcertainthatacruisealongthesouthcoastofEnglandinOctoberwouldbefarmorepleasantthanthisoneofmine.Weallkeptinthecabinduringthewholepassage,orifwedidmakeourappearanceondeck,werealwayscloakedupasmuchaswecould.MyopinionoftheclimateofNewZealandduringthetimeIwastherewouldbe.summedupbytheword"raw;"andIcertainlythinkthatrawnessistheprincipalcharacteristicoftheairofthatcountry,notsomuchhoweverinwinterasinsummerandautumn.IhavenodoubttherewillbequitesufficientheatforanycropswhichcometoperfectioninEngland,andperhapsFrance;butIdonotthinkthewines,&c.willeverhavetherichnessofthoseofSpainorMadeira.

FromallmyobservationsattheThames,whereIremainedsomeweeks,Ithinkitistheproperplaceforasettlement;exceptperhapsPortNicholson,itiscertainlythemostdesirablesituationintheisland.PortNicholsonIhaveneverseen;butfromwhatIhaveheardofit,Iaminclinedtothinkitmustbeamoreadvantageoussituation,geographicallyconsidered,thaneventheThames.IdonotknowwhetherthelandaboutPortNicholsonisasmountainousandbarrenasitis

usuallyonthecoast,butshouldsuppose,fromthegeologicalformationinwhichitissituated,ifanylevellandistobefoundinthecountryitwillbeinthatneighbourhood.Iknowthatcoalexistsintheneighbourhood,ifnotactuallythere;andthatwouldbeanadditionaladvantageovertheThames,wheretherearenonebutvolcanicrocks.AttheThamesIfirstsawthepineorcowrie(Kawri),whichdoesnotgrowtothesouthwardofthatplace.Itisalwaysasignofbadland,andgrowssosparinglyeveninthoseplaceswhereitisfound,thatIaminclinedtothinkintenyearsNewZealandplanksandsparswillbemorescarcethantheyareatpresent.Independentlyoftherarityofthetree,agreatdrawbacktoitsvalueisthatitgrowsonlyonthetopsandsidesofsteephills,fromwhenceitisverydifficulttotransport.Atpresentthesupplyisobtainedfromthemostaccessiblespots,thesidesofhillsnexttheseaandrivers;butevennowthesesituationsarebecomingquitedenudedoftheirtimber;andIamsu

rethattwentyshipsayearwouldquiteexhaustthesupplyofcowrieintenyearsorless,oratalleventsthatpartofthesupplywhichcouldbegotatsoeasilyastobeprofitableforexportation.

TherearenotmanyanchoragesintheThames,andbutthreeplaceswhichcanbeconsideredharbours:theonecalledCoromandelharbourisundoubtedlythemosteligiblesituation,unlesshereaftersomeotherharbourshallbefoundhigherupinthefrith,asitiscalled.Theshoresareallveryrockyandcoveredwithtrees,butthecliffsarenotingeneralhigh,andarealwaysveryrugged;thoseatthewater'sedgearecoveredwithoystersinamostextraordinarymanner;generallytheyaremorethanafootthick,andverygood;othershell-fisharealsoabundant,particularlyCocklesoftheseIhaveseenmorethanamancouldcarrycollectedbyonewomanduringthespaceofatide;Scallopsarealsotolerablyabun

dant,andaremostdeliciouseating.TherearenoLobstersnorCrabs,butagreatabundanceoffishofallkinds;one,theSalmonoftheEnglish,orCarwai(Carwhy),isamostexcellentfish,thebestIhavetastedinthesouthernhemisphere;itisaboutthesizeofasalmon,andsolikeitinfigure,fins,&c.,thatIshouldthinkitmustbelongtoanalliedfamily.Flat-fisharealsomoreabundantthantheyusuallyareonthesecoasts,butIhavenevertastedanyequaleventoaPlaice.AllthefishinNewZealandaremuchsuperiortothoseinNewHolland,which,indeed,theycaneasilybe,forsuchasetofwretched,tastelessthingsasthoseofthelatterIdidnotbelievecouldhavebeenfound.



ThenativesabouttheThamesarenotnumerous,butaverybadset,greatthieves,andveryimpudent.OneofthelargestcanoeseverseenisnowinthegreatPaattheThames,Wakautiwai(Wokatuwhy);itiseighty-eightfeetlong,andhighlyfinished.ItbelongedtoaBayofIslandschief,whocamedowntotheThamestofight,andgotbeaten;Ibelievehewasagreatrascalatleastsosayallthewhites.

AgreatmanypersonshavelatelybeenbuyinglandattheThames;thefirstwhocamewiththerealintentionofemployingthemselvesinagricultureweretwooldsettlersfromNewSouthWales,ofthenamesofThorpeandProut,whodisposedoftheirconcernsthereandemigratedtoNewZealand.Idonotthinktheyhavedonewisely;buttheyarethebestjudgesoftheirownaffairs.Attheupperpartofthefriththelandislow,butatthemouthoftheriverthewatergetstooshallowfortheapproachofshipsofanysize.TheWaiho,ofwhichIhavealreadyspoken,isamissionarysettlement:thelandislow;andifthewaterweredeeperitwouldbeasplendidplaceforafirstsettlement,asitwouldimmediatelyleadtothelargesttractoflevellandinthecountryinfact,Ibelieve,theonlylargetractoflevellandinthewholeisland.Onthenorthcoastofthefrithisanothermissionarystation,thatofMr.Painham.Thispersonclaimsnearlythewholeofthenorthcoast,atractofabotitthirtymilessquare,independentlyofthelandaroundManukauharbouronthewestcoast,aplacewhichhasbeenverymuchtalkedofinallbooksthathareyetbeenwrittenonthecountry.ThiscelebrityhasarisenfromthefactoftheextremenarrownessofthelandattheheadofManukau;thefrontageiscertainlynothalf-a-mile;butIbelieve,froma

lltheinformationIcancollect,thatManukauisaveryuselessplace,asitisfullofsandbanks,andhasabaratitsentrance,whichalmostprecludesthepossibilityofentering,althoughthebookssaythecontrary.InevermetwithonepersoninNewZealandwhodidnotgiveitthecharacterIhaveabovedescribed;shoulditnotbethecase,itwillbeaplaceofgreatconsequenceintime.Itisperhapsthenarrowestisthmusintheworld,oratalleventsthenarrowestjoiningtwosuchlargetractsofland.Thelengthofcoasttothenorthisnotenoughtopreventavesselfromsailinground,inpreferencetocomingthroughacanalatManukau,shouldthereeverbeone;forthesailorIthinkmightgenerallycalculateuponagreaterlossoftimeingoingthroughthecanalthansailingroundtheland.AlthoughthetractoflandclaimedbyMr.Painhamisinallprobabilitythelargest,beingaboutamillionofacres,yetseveralmissionariesclaimtractsoffromonehundredthousandtosixhundredthousandacresindifferen

tpartsofthecountry.Itwouldberidiculousforanygovernmenttorecognisesuchclaims,whichwouldpreventthesaleofgovernmentlandswhileanyofthesetractsremainedunsold,asitwouldbefortheinterestsoftheholderstosellforlessthanthegovernmentprice.Thecolonywouldbeinfactswamped,justinthesamemanneraswasSwanRiverbyMr.Peel'sgrant.IimaginealmostallthelandtothenorthwardoftheThamesisclaimedbyEuropeans;manytractshavefiveorsixclaimants;andIknowofpeopleinNewSouthWaleshavingspentasmuchassixhundredpoundsatatimeinthepurchaseofthoselandsfromoneoftheclaimants,inthoroughignoranceofthevalidity,oreventhereasonableness,ofoneclaimoveranother,supposingofcoursethatanywerevalid.ThecauseofthesedisputeshassometimesbeenthedishonestyoftheEuropeansinsellingthesamelandtodifferentindividuals,butmorefrequentlyfromthenativeshavingdoneso;notalwaysdishonestly;as,accordingtotheirnotionoftitles,(see

reportofHouseofLords'committee,)atotallydifferenttribemayconsidertheyhaveanindisputabletitletothesamelandthathasbeensoldbyanothertribeonlytwoyearsbefore,becauseintheinterimtheymayhaveclearedandplantedwithpotatoes,orotherwiseoccupieditforonewholeyearwithoutinterruption.Thiscanonlyapplytolandswhicharefarfromtheusualhauntsofanytribe;butalmostallthelargetractspurchasedbyPakihasarelandsthussituated,fortheMowrieswouldneverselllandsneartheirsettlementsforsufficientlylowpricestoinduceEuropeanstobecomepurchasersofmorethanenoughforthesitesoftheirhouses,gardens,&c.IntwopurchaseswhichIsawmade,oneatTawrangaandtheotheratRoturoa,thepricesgivenwerepreposterous,andcouldo



nlyhavebeensubmittedtobythepurchasersbecausetheycouldnotdowithouttheland.ThespotatTawrangawasnotabovefiftyfeetsquare,andthecostofitnotlessthanfiftypoundsintrade.ThatatRoturoawasabouthalfanacreofwaterfrontage,andthecosttwelvepoundstenshillings;butthefirstwasinthemiddleofaPa,whiletheotherwasonlynearone,andhadalwaysbeenusedbythepurchaserasalanding-placetohisresidenceeversincehehadbeenatRoturoa.Hetoldmeheconsideredhimselfveryluckytogetitevenforthatsum,ashehadbeentryingforyearstobuyitwithoutsuccess;andeventhislanddidnotappeartomeaperfectlyfreepurchase,fortherewereonittwospotswhichwere"taboo,"andfromwhichIwascalledbackingreathastebythemissionaryladsforfearIshouldbeseenthere,andstrippedformyinfractionoftheirlaws;andthiswasactuallywithinahundredyardsofthehouseofamissionary.

Thenativesalwaysrequireanadditionalconsiderationfortakingoffthe"taboo,"ormaking"noa"anyplaceswhichmaybeincludedinapurchase.Icouldnotdiscoverifthe"taboo"waslostbylapseoftime,butsupposeitmustbesobyreasonoftheforgetfulnessofthepeople,forastheydarenotapproachtheseprohibitedplacessoastorenewthemarksofprohibition,theoriginalmarkssometimesabundleofrags,sometimesabitofhumanflesh,orotherperishablearticlebecomelost,andintimetheplacesareagainapproachedandbuiltupon,fortheyaregenerallythesitesofhousesorthelikeplaces.Wereitnotforsomethingofthiskind,theseplacesmusthavebeenmuchmorenumerousthantheyare,althoughevennowtheyaresufficientlysotobeverydisagreeabletoastranger.

*******

TheserambleswereabruptlyputanendtobytheincreasingbusinessofthemercantilefirmatSydneywithwhichIamconnected;andmytimeandattentionbecameoccupiedinotherpursuits.

ButsoonaftermyreturntoSydneyitwasdeterminedthatIshouldgoagaintoNewZealandoncommercialbusiness,andhavingresidedforsometimeatPortNicholsonanditsneighbourhood,Iam,atthistime,(August1840,)enabledtoaddmanyfurtherparticularsrespectingthecountryfrommyowncontinuedpersonalobservation.

TheThames,orWaihoriver,dischargesitselfintothegulfofHamaki,whichcontainsseveralharbours,onlyoneofwhichhoweverhasbeenvisitedbylargevessels;thisisCoromandelharbouritisonthesouthsideofthegulf,andfromthirtytofortymilesfromthemouthoftheThames,andthecommencementoftheavailablelands.Atthebackoftheharbourthemountainsriseveryabruptlytoabout4000feet,andthereisnopassagefromthencetothelevellandsattheheadofthegulf.ThelandisallquiteassteepasthatintheneighbourhoodofPortNicholsonbetweenBritanniaandThorndon,andtheshoressoboldandruggedthatitisimpossibletowalkforanydistancealongthem.TheonlyharbourwhichisworthmentioningatpresentisWaitemati,theintendednewsettlement;itisagoodharbour,butverylittleknown;whenIwasthereithadneverbeenenteredbyvesselsofanyburthenthelandismorelevelthanonthesouthernside,butthesoilisbadandveryswampy,andwoodforfuelevenisveryscarce;itisfro

mthirtytofortymilesfromtherichlevellandswhichareheldoutastheinducementtodrawsettlerstotheThames,andland-carriageatpresentisimpracticable.

ThemountainouslandontheThamesisgenerallycoveredwithtimber,butfromtheruggedcharacterofthegroundwhereitgrowsitsvalueisgreatlydiminished,asthecostofitstransporttothewaterwouldbeverygreat.ThetimberischieflytheCowriepine,whichalwaysgrowsinpoorstiffclaysoil,veryinferiorforagriculturalpurposestoanyofthelandaroundPortNicholson.



TheriverWaiho,orThames,joinstheseaonthesouthshoreneartheheadofthegulf;thelandisswampyformanymilesfromthemouthoftheriver,whichcannotbeenteredbyvesselsofmorethantentonsburthen.

TheThamesrunsthroughalevelcountry,freefromtimber,forabouteightymilesfromnorthtosouth,andwithanaveragebreadthoffifteenmiles;themountainsbounditontheeastlikeawall;theyarethesameIhavespokenofasformingthebackgroundofCoromandelharbour;attheirterminationtheyarequiteperpendicularforaboutonethirdfromtheirsummits,andtheremaindersosteepastoresembleanartificialembankment.Althoughthesoilofthetable-landisrich,andremarkablylevelforNewZealand,itcanneverbesettledfromtheplain,becauseoftheutterimpracticabilityofitswesternface;theeasternslopeismoregradual,butuntilagoodharbourisfoundintheBayofPlentyitwillbeofaslittleuseastheother.Onthewesternsidethereisnosuchwell-definedboundary,butanumberofroundhillsshutintheview.ThevolcanicridgeofTongadidoclosestheviewtothesouthward.IhaveneverreachedTongadidofromthisroute,butIhavenodoubttheascentwouldbefoundverygradualtothebaseofthemountain.

TheWaihoisariveraboutthesizeoftheThamesatWindsor.Itrunswithasteady,rapidcurrent,andisgenerallyfreefromlogsandotherobstructions;itsaveragedepthisaboutfivefeet,butitistoorapidtorowagainst.Theplaincannotproperlybeconsideredasthebedoftheriver,butaportionoforiginaltable-landthroughwhichitflows.Thepropervalleyoftheriverisabouthalf

amilewide,andiscontinuouswiththecourseofthestreamallthroughtheplain.Thelandisrich,andiscoveredwithflaxfromteatotwelvefeetinheight.ScatteredatintervalsaresmallgrovesoftallKaikateatrees;butthesespotsaresofewthattheplainingeneralmaybedescribedasperfectlyfreefromtimber.

Thereisnodoubtintimethiswillbeafinecountry,butIcannothelpthinkingthelandaroundPortNicholsonoffersfargreateradvantages;itistrueroundthevalleyoftheHuttthelandwillcostlabourtoprepareitforcultivation,butitisundoubtedlyveryrich,andwillmakegoodandspeedyreturnfortheoutlayuponit.NowthelandontheWaiho,whichwillnotcostmuchmoneytowork,isnotbetter,perhapsnotsogood,asthebarehillstothesouthofPortNicholson,andtheswampylandsoftheWaihowillcostalmostasmuchtodrain,as

heavytimberedlandtoclear;anditiswellknownbogsdonotimmediatelybecomeusefulland,butthatseveralyearsmustelapseaftertheyarereclaimed,beforetheywillbearcropsofgrain[13].

TheWaiho,althoughamuchlargerriver,isnotmoreusefulthantheHutt,asitwillonlyserveforthedownwardconveyanceofproduce,forwhichpurposethelatterisequallycapable;andinPortNicholsonthefarmerhastheadvantageofhisport-townclosetohim,whilstontheThamesheisfromthirtytofortymilesfromit,andconsequentlyfromhismarket;thealmosttotalabsenceoftimberontheThameswillalsobeaseriousdifficultytothefarmer,ashewill,inmostinstances,beobligedtobringhiswoodforallpurposesfromadistance,besidesbuying,insteadofcuttingituponhisownland.

TheonlyadvantagetheThameshasovertheHuttisitsplain,admirablyadaptedforrearingherdsofcattlewithoutthelabourofcultivation,andIhavenodoubt,inafewyears,itwillbesooccupiedfromNewSouthWales,bypersonsaccustomedtothatkindofemployment;butIapprehendfewfromthisplacewouldatpresentfeeldisposedtoembarkinsuchaspeculation.

Icansay,moreover,fromallIhaveseenorheardofthedifferentharboursofNewZealand,PortNicholsonisbyfarthebestforthesettlementofanewcolony,notonlyfromitsgeographicalsituation,butbecausethesiteofthetownismuchsuperiortoanyotherthathasyetbeenfoundinthecountry;andthereis



abundanceofexcellentland,sufficientfortheemploymentofanyamountofpopulationtheremaybefortwentyyearstocome.

AttheBayofIslandsitisalmostimpossibletofindaplacesuitableforthesiteevenofamoderatevillage,andthecountryissoroughandbroken,thattherearenomeansofgoingfromonepartoftheBaytoanotherbyland;andtheshoresalsooftheGulfofHamakiaremoremountainouseventhanthoseoftheBayofIslands.

AtPortNicholsonthereisanexcellentharbour;anavigableriver,theHutt;agreatextentofveryrichland;anadmirablesiteforthetown;withapopulationatpresentofbetweentwoandthreethousandpersons,amongwhomaremanyofhighfamilyconnexionsandrespectabilityfromEngland,whohavebroughtconsiderablecapitalwiththem,andaconsequentdemandforlabourmostofwhichadvantagesarenottobefoundontheThames,wherethereareasyetnoemigrants,andwhereitisverycertainnonewillbesentbyGovernment,andwherethepopulationwillbemadeupentirelyfromtheemigrationofdoubtfulcharactersfromNewSouthWales,oroffickle,discontentedspiritsfromthisplace.ThenativesontheThameshavealwaysbeenknownasaverybadset,andthosewhowerehereatthebeginningofthissettlementwillunderstandwhattroubleanill-disposedsetofnativesmaygivetoanew-comer,whohaseverythingtodo,andnonebutthesetohelphim.

PortNicholsonhasbeenmostwantonlycrieddownatSidneybypartiesinterested

inothersettlements;becausetheyhadlandthere,andnonehere.Isawtheotherday,in"TheSidneyColonist,"aletterfromapersontheycalledtheirKonorarikacorrespondent:thisveraciousindividualdescribedThorndonas"liabletobewashedawaybythefloodsfromthehillsafterheavyrains;"whichridiculousnonsensewouldnotbeworthnoticing,butfromthedangerofitsbeingbelievedbypersonshavingnomeansoflearningthetruth,forthesituationofThorndonis,ofallothers,onethemostperfectlyexemptfromanydangerfromfloods;andonehardlyknowshowsufficientlytoadmiretheimpudenceofthepersonwhocouldstateastruthsovisibleanimpossibility.

IthinkitoflittleconsequencewhatpeopleinotherpartsofNewZealandsayofthisplace,asIamsatisfiednolongperiodwillelapsebeforeitwillbecome,asitdeserves,theoneofthegreatestconsequenceinthecountry;itslocal

advantagesbeinggreater,anditssettlers[14]somuchsuperiorincharacter,education,property,andeveryrequisiteforthefinalsuccessofacolonytothoseoftheresidentEuropeansinotherpartsofNewZealand,thatitcannotfailtoprosper,ifthecolonistsdonotsufferthemselvestobedeceivedandmisledintonewschemesforfurtheremigrationbyinterestedparties,andwhichtheymaybesurewilldothemnogood,andonlythrowthembacktothestateofdiscomfortnaturallyincidenttoafirstarrivalinanynewsettlement.

J.C.BIDWILL.

?Itmayperhapsbesaidthatthebayisaplaceofgreatresortforshippingwhalersinparticular,andthatthisisthecauseofitscelebrity,notthepanorama;buttheislandofWahoo(oneoftheSandwich)isverymuchmoreso,andha

stentimesthenumberofEuropeanresidents,apaper,theatre,hotelsandwarehouses,andyetitsnameishardlyknowninEnglandbecause,asyet,therehasbeennopanoramaofWahoo.?Idonotwishtoundervaluethelaboursofthemissionaries,butmybusinessistostatefacts,andtowarnpeopleagainstformingtoohastyconclusionsrespectingthegoodthatmaybedonebythem.?Leiospermumracemosum.?Dacrydiumcupressinum.?Podocarpusferrugineus.?ProbablyPhilippodendron.



?Metrosiderosrobustus.?Phyllocladustrichomanoides.?Sweetpotatoes?Corynocarpuslavigatus??PodocarpusTotara.?ProbablyEarinamucronata.?FullyonehalfoftheplainoftheWaihoisanimpassablebogcoveredwithhighrushes,thelargestremainingportionpoorfernland;andthereisaconsiderableportionofwetstonylandcoveredwithrankvegetationwithoutbushes.?IamatthismomentresidingwithMr.Molesworth,brotherofSirWilliamMolesworth,Bart.;andamongahostofrespectablesettlers,whogiveahighmoraltonetosocietyhere,ImaynamePetre,sonofLordPetre;Sinclair,brotherorsonofSirGeorgeSinclair;Dorset,Wakefield,Hopper,Partridge,Bruce,Scot,Hobson,Mantell,Hunter,Majoribanks,Biggs,Jones,Lloyd,&c.&c.

LISTOFSUBSCRIBERS.

Acland,SirThomasDyke,Bart.,M.P.,Killerton,Devon.Atherly,Rev.Arthur,Heavitree,Devon,(sixteencopies).Allen,Rev.John,NorthHuish,Devon.Anderton,James,Bridge-street,London.Anderdon,J.,Tavistock-square,London.Adams,ThomasB.,BudleighSalterton.

Alsop,John,Newton.Arbouin,Samuel,London.Andrews,W.,London.Allen,Thomas,London.

Buller,JamesWentworth,Downes,Devon,(twocopies).Buller,CaptainThomasWentworth,R.N.,Bryanston-square,London.Back,John,KingsburyLodge,St.Alban's,(eightcopies).Bell,F.Dillon,NewZealandHouse,London,(sixcopies).BritishIronCompany,London,(twocopies).Boulderson,Captain,R.N.,Penryn.Boulderson,Mrs.,Falmouth.Boulderson,Miss,Falmouth.

Beer,JosephR.,St.Thomas',Exeter.Bear,John,Chevestone,Kenton.Bear,Mrs.,Chevestone,Kenton.Bear,JohnPenny,Chevestone,Kenton.Bear,ThomasHutchings,Chevestone,Kenton.Bear,MissE.A.,Chevestone,Kenton.Bowring,John,Exeter.Bidwill,JohnGreen,St.Thomas',Exeter.Benison,W.M.,StThomas',Exeter,(twocopies).Banfill,Samuel,Exwick,Devon.Bond,Rev.J.,StokeCanon,Devon.Barnes,Rev.DoctorGeorge,Sowton,Devon,(twocopies).Brutton,Charles,Exeter.

Brooke,George,Whimple,Devon.Balle,Thomas,Exeter.

Besley,Thomas,Exeter.Braund,George,St.Thomas',Exeter.Barham,ThomasFoster,M.D.,Exeter.Bealy,Richard,Exeter.Buckley,Joseph,Alphington,Devon.Bowring,Richard,St.Thomas',Exeter.Bartlet,Rev.Edward,Exeter.



Brodie,P.B.,Lincoln's-Inn-Fields,London.Boville,William,Temple,London.Butter,JacobusS.,Woodbury,Devon.Brown,John,Sandford,Devon.Brown,Samuel,Crediton,Devon.Burne,Rev.Charles,Wear,Devon.Browning,William,Alphington,Devon.Bush,G.T.,NorthParade,Bath,(twocopies).Bourn,James,Bath,(twocopies).Barnicoat,J.W.,Falmouth.Barker,J.T.,Heavitree,Devon,(twocopies).Biffen,Lieut.Edward,R.N.,Liverpool.Buller,SirAntony,Bart.,Pound,Devon,(fourcopies).Blackall,Doctor,M.D.,Exeter.Bulkeley,Captain,MountStone,Plymouth.Bovill,G.,London.BryantandDavies,London.Bentall,T.,London.Bucknall,H.andSons,London.Boulderson,George,Liverpool.Burt,N.,London.Barrett,H.,London.

Courtenay,RightHonourableLord,PowderhamCastle,(fourcopies).

Carwithen,Rev.DoctorWilliam,StokeClimsland,Devon.Cookeworthy,J.C,M.D.,Plymouth.Cook,Richard,Bath,(twocopies).Copleston,Rev.JohnG.,Offwell,Devon.Collyns,Rev.DoctorCharlesH.,Farringdon,Devon.Cornish,Robert,Exeter.Cole,William,Exeter.Cawsey,ThomasAnthony,Exeter.Cann,William,Exeter.Cann,James,Exeter.Croft,Henry,Exeter.Clarke,JamesF.,St.Thomas',Exeter.Clench,John,jun.,Exeter.

ColdridgeandSons,Exeter,(threecopies).ColsonandSpark,Exeter.Carne,EdwardClifton,Falmouth.Carne,Miss,Falmouth.Crane,William,CarltonChambers,London.

Collyns,William,Kenton.Crosse,Thomas,Thorverton.Cornick,Lieutenant,R.N.,Kenton.Cheeseworth,C.N.,Dunsford.Carlyon,Mr.,Helston.Cunnack,Mr.,Helston.Collins,Robert,St.Thomas',Exeter.

Coward,J.Toogood,Shaldon.Carne,CharlesFrederick,Liverpool,(tencopies).Cohen,Andrew,ColletonPlace,Exeter.Chorley,William,jun.,Quarm,Dulverton.Coglan,John,Liverpool.Cotton,William,Liverpool.Collier,William,Plymouth.Chambers,Doctor,M.D.,London,(eightcopies).Carne,William,Rosemundy,Cornwall,(fourcopies).CollierandDunsford,Plymouth.



Cramond,G.,London.Clossmann,F.F.andCo.,London.

Devon,theRightHonourabletheEarlof,PowderhamCastle,Devon,(sixcopies).Duckworth,SirJohnThomas,Bart.,Wear,Devon.Davie,SirHumphryP.,Creedy,Devon.Divett,Edward,M.P.,Bystock,Devon.Driver,Edward,RichmondTerrace,Whitehall.Dart,Joseph,TidwellHouse,Devon.Dames,Rev.A.Longworth,Kenton,Devon.Drake,ThomasEdward,Exeter.Daw,John,Exeter.Drew,John,Peamore,Devon.Drew,John,jun.,Peamore,Devon.Drew,Samuel,Alphington,Devon.Dyer,Thomas,St.Thomas',Exeter.Davy,Robert,Wear,Devon.Davy,DanielBishop,Topsham.Drake,G.H.,Exeter.Dymond,Robert,Exeter.Drew,William,Huxham,Devon.Davies,JamesandSon,London.Dunsford,CaptainWilliam,Tiverton.Davies,RichardLongfield,RedinnickHouse,Penzance.

Dixon,Miss,Birmingham.Dingley,Mr.,Helston.DeCastro,Mrs.,Falmouth.Drake,Edwin,Exeter.Delacombe,Captain,R.M.,Plymouth.Dawson,R.H.,St.Thomas',Exeter.DillonandMcDonell,London,(fiftycopies).

Drake,Colonel,Ipplepen,Devon.DuncanBrothers,London.DennysandCo.,London.Dick,Jeremiah,London.Duke,R.,London.

Duppa,B.E.,NewZealandHouse,London.

Ellicombe,Rev.Richard,Alphington,Devon.Ellicombe,Rev.WilliamRouse,ClystSt.George,Devon.Eales,Richard,EastdonHouse,Dawlish.Elliott,Doctor,M.D.,Exeter.Evans,Richard,Exeter.Evans,H.C,Bristol,(twocopies).Eagle,Thomas,Bloxham,Banbury,(eightcopies).Evans,H.S.,AustralianEmigrationOffice,London.Eddison,W.E.,Walbrook,London.Edwards,H.andSon,Woodbridge.

Follet,SirWilliamWebb,Knight,M.P.,London.Forrest,SirDiggory,Knight,Exmouth.Fulford,Colonel,GreatFulford,Devon.Flint,Captain,Cheltenham.Fitze,James,Exeter.Farrant,FrederickGranby,Exeter.Friend,William,St.Thomas',Exeter.Fouracre,Robert,St.Thomas',Exeter.Fearnhead,Peter,Ashby-de-la-Zouche.Farthing,John,Cornhill,London.



Franklin,Michael,Exeter.Fisher,Thomas,Bath,(twocopies).Fowler,Charles,Gordon-square,London.Francis,James,St.Thomas',Exeter.Formby,John,Liverpool.Frodsham,Henry,Liverpool.Forbes,R.,jun.,London.FinziandWilliams,London.Forster,Matthew,London.

Girdlestone,Samuel,AstonTerrace,Regent'sPark.Greenwood,Rev.Robert,ColletonRaleigh.Glendinning,Richard,St.Thomas',Exeter.Gray,Miss,St.Thomas',Exeter.Gray,MissM.A.,St.Thomas',Exeter.Gray,ThomasWilliam,St.Thomas',Exeter.Gabriel,William,Cullompton.Gould,Thomas,St.Thomas',Exeter.Gray,G.,Helston.Gould,Joseph,Newhall,Devon.Gordon,James,Liverpool.

Greenway,James,MonteVideo.Gould,John,Poltimore,Devon.

Greenway,James,Liverpool,(eightcopies).Gray,MissEllen,Bordeaux,France.Gray,MissElizabeth,Archangel,Russia.Gardner,Thomas,Plymouth.Godsell,F.andE.,London.Godard,P.andCo.,Cognac,France.Godard,Philip,Bordeaux,France.Garratt,John,Bishop'sCourt,Devon.Gillon,JohnandCo.,Leith.

Hamilton,AlexanderHamilton,Retreat,Devon.Huyshe,Rev.John,Clysthydon,Devon.Huish,Rev.John,Dix'sFields,Exeter.

Harrington,Rev.E.C,A.M.,Exeter.Horrell,George,Exeter.Horrell,GeorgeT.,Exeter.Hussy,Thomas,Waybrooke,Devon.Hawkins,KnowlingH.,Torrington.Hartnol,Thomas,St.Thomas',Exeter,(twocopies).Hilman,J.,London.Hunter,T.,BudleighSalterton,Devon.Harvey,Rev.W.,Truro.Hartnoll,H.F.,St.Thomas',Devon.Hubbard,Charles,Exeter.Ham,James,Exeter.Huxham,Frederick,St.Thomas',Exeter.

Harvey,Robert,Exeter.Hughes,Mrs.Edward,Falmouth.Hammond,F.,Alphington,Devon.Hatson,Campbell,GordonPlace,TavistockSquare,London.Horrell,ThomasWills,Exeter.Hawkins,Miss,Exeter.Hodge,James,St.Thomas',Exeter.Hewet,Captain,R.V.,St.Thomas',Exeter.Hill,LieutenantJohn,R.N.,Falmouth.Hodge,J.,Helston.



Hatchard,Thomas,Helston.HelstonBookClub,Helston.HelstonReadingRoomandLibrary.Hex,Thomas,St.Thomas',Exeter.Huish,Abraham,Broadcast,Devon.Hill,Christopher,Exeter.Hogg,H.L.,ClystHoniton,Devon.Hart,Thomas,StokeCottage,Exeter.Hall,T.,Woodbury,Devon.Houghton,G.andSons,London.Haycock,Joseph,London.

Hills,Son,andUnderwood,London.HortonandAlder,London.Harvey,Barrett,London.Hepworth,W.andCo.,London.Henning,Andrew,London.Henekey,Kislingbury,andCo.,London.

James,Francis,Helston.James,Mrs.,Helston.Jones,George,London.Ireland,John,St.Thomas',Exeter.

Kennaway,SirJohn,Bart.,Escot,Devon.Kekewich,G.G.,Summerlands,Exeter.Kennaway,William,Exeter.Knowles,Stephen,Exeter,(twocopies).Kingdon,Thomas,Chapple,Thorverton.Kingdon,William,Haccombe,Devon.Kingdon,WilliamP.,Exeter.Knott,Thomas,Exeter.Kendal,Walter,Budleigh.Kersterman,H.G.,ColletonCrescent,Exeter.Kinsman,Mrs.,Falmouth,(twocopies).King,Richard,London.

Lowe,Rev.ThomasHill,theDeanofExeter.Leaf,Edwin,London.Loveband,Mr.,Quarn,Dulverton.Lucas,Doctor,R.H.,M.D.,Exeter.Lindley,Doctor,RegentStreet,London.Lee,Edward,Exeter.Lindon,J.,Plymouth,(twocopies).Lyddon,James,St.Thomas',Exeter.Lewis,Charles,Exeter.Lewis,Charles,jun.,Exeter.Lewis,CaptainF.L.,R.E.,Exeter.Lewis,Rev.Richard,Honiton.Lewis,Mrs.,Heavitree,Devon.

Lewis,Miss,Heavitree,Devon.Langdon,Mrs.,CrossMead,St.Thomas'.Langdon,Mrs.John,CrossMead,St.Thomas'.Langdon,Mrs.William,CrossMead,St.Thomas'.Langdon,Miss,CrossMead,St.Thomas'.Lendon,Edward,Exeter.Land,Thomas,St.Thomas',Exeter.Latimer,Thomas,Exeter.Lee,William,Exeter.Ley,Rev.Jacob,Ashprington,Devon,(twocopies).



Lockett,George,CamdenTown.

Mules,Mrs.,Callington.Maunder,Robert,Exwick,Devon.Mills,Rev.W.,D.D.,Exeter.Milford,John,Coaver,Exeter.Marsh,James,AlphingtonVilla,Devon.Mackintosh,John,Exeter,(fourcopies).Medley,Rev.John,St.Thomas',Exeter.Mathews,Charles,St.Thomas',Exeter.Mathews,John,Bradninch,Devon.Mathews,John,Clysthydon,Devon.Mathews,Henry,Bradninch,Devon.Mansford,T.,BeaufortBuildings,Bath,(twocopies).Mortimer,Samuel,FortBarbican,Exeter.Mudge,John,BrampfordSpeke,Devon.Matthews,Henry,Exeter,(fourcopies).Mortimer,William,Exeter.Mortimer,George,Dunsford,Devon.Maunder,Samuel,Exminster,Devon.Manning,J.,NewBankBuildings,London.Moxhay,R.H.,Heavitree,Devon.MackintoshandCo.,Cheapside,London,(fourcopies).Maingy,CaptainPeter,R.N.,Stonehouse.

Mitchell,Mr.,Helston.Mason,Joseph,Exeter.Marzetti,J.G.,London,(fiftycopies).Marshall,John,Liverpool.Mortimer,Mrs.,Colyton,Devon.MohonandSimons,London.May,Thomas,London.Moule,William,London.Mouat,John,London.Muir,JohnandSons,Edinburgh.

Northcot,Joseph,Ide,Devon.Nunn,J.,CharlesStreet,Bath,(twocopies).

Newman,F.J.,Exeter.Norrie,T.J.,London.Norton,William,London.Newman,John,London.

Owen,Thomas,jun.,St.Thomas',Devon.Oldham,Henry,Liverpool.OakwoodIronCompany,London.

Parker,Montague,E.N.,M.P.,Whiteway,Devon.Pitman,Rev.John,Broadhempston,Devon.Pyle,Rev.Samuel,Topsham,(threecopies).Ponsford,Luke,St.Thomas',Devon.

Pates,William,Exeter.

Perkins,SamuelS.,Exeter.Pym,Miss,St.Thomas',Exeter.Pym,John,London.PigouandWilks,London,(twocopies).Packer,John,Aqueduct,Bath,(twocopies).Pender,Miss,Falmouth.Pince,R.T.,Nurseryman,Devon.Pye,George,Exeter.



Pridham,EdwardP.,Exeter.Pastorelli,A.C,London.Peppin,Rev.S.H.,Branscombe,Devon.

Rolle,RightHonourableLord,Bicton,Devon,(fourcopies).Rolle,RightHonourableLady,Bicton,Devon,(fourcopies).Rabone,Edward,Birmingham,(eightcopies).Rabone,Mrs.,Birmingham.Rathbone,William,Greenbank,Liverpool,(fourcopies).Rathbone,Richard,Woodcroft,Liverpool,(fourcopies).Ross,F.W.L.,Broadway-house,Topsham.Radford,Benjamin,Montpelier,Devon.Radford,W.T.A.,do.do.Rawling,William,Exeter.Roberts,Miss,Falmouth.Rossiter,Edward,Exeter.Read,Mr.,Helston.Roberts,C.R.,Fort-hill,Barum.Ridge,William,Exeter.RoyalBankofAustralia,London.Rew,W.P.,London.Robinson,E.B.,London.

Stevens,Rev.ArchdeaconJohnMoore,Otterton,Devon.

Strangways,Rev.H.,Rewe,Devon.Sillifant,John,jun.,Coombe,Crediton.Smythe,Capt.R.E.,Pennsylvania,Exeter.Splat,HenryCollins,Exeter.Snow,Thomas,Franklyn,St.Thomas.Short,Capt.W.P.,Heavitree,Devon.Scot,CharlesDavison,EustonPlace,EustonSquare,London.Scot,Miss,do.do.do.Salter,Rev.W.,MountRadford,Exeter.Salter,ThomasU.,Heavitree,Devon.Salter,Charles,Clysthydon,Devon.Salter,Benjamin,MountRadford,Devon.Stogdon,John,Exeter.

Saunders,Richard,Exeter.Smith,Abraham,Jun.,HonitonClyst,Devon.Savery,Richard,BoveyTracey,Devon.Skinner,John,Exeter.

Sercombe,JohnClampit,Exeter.Southcot,Edward,Topshom.Symes,William,TavistockSquare,London.Scadding,Edwin,GordonStreet,London.Scadding,Mrs.,do.do.Saunders,Christopher,Heavitree,Devon.Scanes,John,St.Thomas',Exeter.Sharland,George,Exeter.

Scarse,Mr.,Helston.Symonds,SamuelF.,Liverpool.Sawer,Thomas,Exeter.Sutton,Robert,Flushing.Shirreff,C,BeaconHouse,Devon.Snook,J.S.,Colyton,Devon.Symes,Miss,Colyton,Devon.SymondsandSon,London.Swayne,G.,London.Sampson,L.,London.



Seymour,T.,London.Selson,G.,London.Smith,James,CamdenTown.

Thomas,Lieut.General,StreteRaleigh,Devon.Tyrrell,John,St.Leonard's,Devon,(fourcopies).Terrell,James,Exeter,(sixcopies).Tregellis,Edwin0.,Cottage,Falmouth,(sixcopies).Turner,William,WalcotBuildings,Bath,(twocopies).Tremlet,RichardH.,Exeter.Troode,Edward,Exminster,Devon.Tanner,Frederick,Exeter.Turner,George,Alphington,Devon.Trewman,R.J.,Exeter.Tanner,W.H.,Exeter,(twocopies).Towsey,W.H.,Lympstone.Trix,John,Exeter.Tucker,William,Exeter.Templeton,James,A.M.,Exeter.Tucker,Rev.H.T.,Upottery.Thornton,Henry,HamptonCourt.Tothill,T.C,Topsham.Townend,William,BreadStreet,London.Thomas,J.L.,St.Thomas',Exeter.

Tombs,T.,Exeter.Toll,Capt.H.T.,Perridge,Devon.Tripp,Rev.R.H.,St.Sidwell's,Exeter.Thornley,Joseph,London.

Veitch,James,andSon,Nurserymen,Exeter,(fourcopies).Veitch,Thomas,Broadclist,Devon.

Vyse,Thomas,CripplegateBuildings,London.Vignrs,John,Falmouth.Vigurs,Richard,M.B.,Falmouth.

Williams,Capt.,R.N.,SowdonLympstone.

Wade,Colonel,PoorLawCommissioner,Devon,(fourcopies).Walkey,Rev.CharlesE.,ClystSt.Lawrence,Devon.Worthy,Rev.Charles,Exeter.Wilkinson,W.J.P.,Exeter.Wilcocks,J.P.,Plymouth,(twocopies).Wilcocks,J.M.,Spurbarne,Devon,(twocopies).White,Edward,St.Thomas',Exeter.Ward,JoelH.,do.do.Wake,James,Heavitree,Devon.Ward,William,Broadclist,Devon.Wescot,Miss,MountRadford,Exeter.Woodman,Thomas,Cross,Alphington.Woodman,William,Exeter.

Wickham,Mrs.,Birmingham.Woolcombe,Mrs.Capt.Edward,R.N.,Exeter.Ware,John,Exeter.Westmot,J.L.,St.John's,NewBrunswick.Walker,D.R.G.,BudleighSalterton,Devon.Williams,Charles,Torquay,Devon.Walsh,Captain,Colyford,Devon.Walton,Charles,London.WardropandEwart,London.Whyte,J.B.,London.



Woodley,W.andJ.,London.Wood,M.andCo.,London.

Yzarn,J.B.,London.Yarde,Edward,Crediton.York,Mr.,Helston.Yglesias,M.,London.Yglesias,J.R.,London.

THEEND.

LONDON:BRADBURYANDEVANS,PRINTERS,WHITEFRIARS.

Documents

Rambles in New Zealand