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8/7/2019 Recipes from The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz
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8/7/2019 Recipes from The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz
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http://www.randomhouse.com/crownhttp://www.indiebound.org/book/9780767928892http://itunes.apple.com/us/book/the-sweet-life-in-paris/id419974908?mt=11http://books.google.com/ebooks?as_brr=5&q=9780767928892http://www.borders.com/online/store/TitleDetail?defaultSearchView=List&LogData=[search:+17,parse:+69]&cm_mmc=CJ-_-2193956-_-2665379-_-88x31+logo&type=1&searchData={productId:null,sku:null,type:1,sort:null,currPage:1,resultsPerPage:25,simpleSearch:false,navigation:5185,moreValue:null,coverView:false,url:rpp%3D25%26view%3D2%26type%3D1%26page%3D1%26kids%3Dfalse%26nav%3D5185%26simple%3Dfalse%26sku%3D9780767928892,terms:{sku%3D9780767928892}}&storeId=13551&catalogId=10001&sku=076792889X&ddkey=http:SearchResults&cmpid=pub-rh-1117http://search.barnesandnoble.com/books/product.aspx?r=1&afsrc=1&ISBSRC=Y&ISBN=9780767928892http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/076792889X?ie=UTF8&tag=randohouseinc2-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=076792889X8/7/2019 Recipes from The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz
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Copyrigh 2009 by David Lboviz
All Righs Rsrvd
Publishd in h Unid Sas by Broadway Paprbacks,
an imprin of h Crown Publishing Group,
a division of Random Hous, Inc., Nw York.
www.crownpublishing.com
BROADWAY PAPERBACKS and is logo, a ltr B biscd on h diagonal,
ar radmarks of Random Hous, Inc.
Originally publishd in hardcovr in h Unid Sas by Broadway Books,
an imprin of h Crown Publishing Group, a division of
Random Hous, Inc., Nw York, in 2009.
Library of Congrss Caaloging-in-Publicaion Daa
Lboviz, David.
T swe lif in Paris: dlicious advnurs in h worlds mos
gloriousand prplxingci / David Lboviz. 1s d.
p. cm.
1. Gasronomy. 2. Cookry, Frnch. 3. Paris (Franc)Social lif and cusoms.
4. AmricansFrancAncdos. I. il.
X637.L42 2009
641'.013dc22
2008025955
ISBN 978-0-7679-2889-2
PRINED IN HE UNIED SAES OF AMERICA
Desgn by Elzabeth Rendeich
Cover desgn by Jennfer OConnor
Cover photograph by Fuse/Jupter Images
1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2
8/7/2019 Recipes from The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz
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I
ASK HIM FOR A CAFE AU LAITONLY IF YOU WOKE UP WITH HIM
Its almost impossible to nd a drinkable cup of coffee in
Paris: the coffee here is among the worst Ive ever had.
Before Francophiles race to chime in about how bad
American coffee is, yes, I agree with you. Theres a lot of bad
coffee in America. The difference is theres thepossibilityof
nding a good cup in the States.
Plus North Americans have an excuse: we dont share a
border with Italy, that magical kingdom of coffee, where
8/7/2019 Recipes from The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz
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unil I polish off h las o h syrupy sprsso ha ricls ou o h iny
cup, my mind can concnra on anyhing bu ha inns dos o mas-rully xracd coffe. Ahl espresso perfeto.
In a counry whr hrs such an mphasis on fin dining, whos good
ood is clbrad no jus hr, bu around h world, is suping why
Parisian coffe is so vil ha d-up Frnch ood wrir Sophi Brissard d-
scribd i as dony piss. T only good coffe Iv ound in Paris has
ben in placs run by Ialians. o hm, srving bad coffe would b an in-
sul o hir nir culur. Whn I asd h woman a h Ialian ourismoffic how sh was abl o liv in Paris and subsis on h coffe srvd
hr, sh lood as i Id mad hr quasy jus by mnioning i. I will no
drin coffe in Franc, sh rspondd. I only drin a.
Grasping or som xplanaion, I did som rsarch. I larnd ha manyo h cas ar orcd o buy hir bans fom h sam supplir, d-
scribd as an Auvrgna Mafia. I has h cas, I suggs h Ialian
Mafia a ovr. Im sur hyd lan on h cas o improv h quali
o h coffe.
Spaing o bans, I don bliv or a minu ha much o h coffe
labldpur Arabca, considrd h bs, acually is.
Tn hrs h rm Frnch roas, which mans h coffe isroasd unil is burn byond rcogniion. Is a procss dsignd o
covr up h awul flavors o bad bans. I avoid anyhing labld Frnch
roas.
I pulld up an onlin inrviw wih a ca wair, who said i your no
looing, hyll on rus coffe grounds. I anyon in Ialy did ha,
hyd b ossd o h ral Mafia. Is no bcaus Im chap ha I sand
a h bar or my coffe (whr is inded chapr); is bcaus Im dis-rusul. I wach h barmn li a haw, and alhough Iv nvr sen any-
16 6 D AV I D L E B O V I T Z
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ar ach and vry cup. From h as o hings, I doub hy vn do i
ar ach and vry monh.And Parisian barmn mus hin h ampr is hr or dcoraion, sinc
hy rarly us i. Evry im hy dump som coffe ino h filr holdr and
is i closd undr h opning o h machin, I wan o lap ovr h
counr, waving my arms, Sop! Sop! Prss ha coffe down firs! Tir-
en ilos worh o prssur! Tas wha ha litl round mal hing is or!
Bu I ep qui, drop a sugar cub in h murk blac sludg, and sip
i whil grimacing, wondring i mayb dony piss migh b an improv-mn. I youv vr wondrd wha all hos pnsiv hinrs ar pondr-
ing in h cas, ha migh b i, oo.
Frusrad, I go mysl a bulk Ialian-mad sprsso machin and nrolld
in h Univrsi dl Caff sprsso-maing school a Illy Caff in Ialy.Tr I larnd all h componns or pulling a prc sprsso: how o
grind h bans o a fin powdr, fill h filr holdr wih jus h righ
amoun o ground coffe, hn amp i down wih propr prssur. Each x-
racion ha cam dribbling ou o h machin was chocola-brown
manna fom havn. I was so xciing I couldn slep a nigh hining
abou all Id larnd. (Or, mor lily, i was h nin or n shos o sprsso
I downd ach day.) I cam hom wih a suicas pacd wih coffe, andvry im I go o Ialy, I bring an mp on o rsoc my lardr.
Howvr, I was finding i difficul o susain my coffe-running opraion
across h bordr. Fd up, and armd wih my nwly acquird nowldg
and a prossional sprsso mar a homI hadd up o h nih
arrondissmn, o h highly rgardd Brlri Jordain. (I nedd litl n-
couragmn o go hr, sinc is convninly locad jus nx door o
Boulangri 140, whos bric ovn urns ou som o h bs brad in Paris.)I old h ownr, who was also h coffe roasr, my pligh. Im loo-
T H E S WE ET L I F E I N PA R I S 16 7
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ass jus li Ialian coffe. T ownr o h shop, considrd on o h
bs placs in Paris o buy coffe, wrinld up his nos and rplidWarn-ing: I your Ialian, plas don rad h nx snncWhy would
you wan your coffe o as li Ialancoffe?
Good Lord. Im no vn a singl bi Ialian, and Im offndd. Imag-
in i an xpr on chocola sniffd a you, Why would you wan choco-
las ha as li Parianchocolas?
So I sic wih coffe impord fom Ialy as much as possibl and ry
o drin my brw a hom, sinc I don hin many Parisian wairs wouldloo vry indly upon m i I plund a hrmos down on h abl and
sard pouring. Bu mayb I should: hy migh g h mssag.
Bu ls say you don hav a coffe machin, or don wan o ris h
wrah o an unsympahic wair: how do you ordr coffe in Paris? I you
jus say, Ill hav a coffe, h wairs going o bring you a small cup o
express. And don corrc m. In Franc, is splld wih an x. I now, I
now. Ty can vn g h splling righ.Is usually h momn h wair ss down ha iny cup o brown
sludg and dashs away ha mos visiors rcoil in surpris. Tn hy
spnd h nx n minus rying o flag h wair down or mil. I can
se no undrsanding ha hy don auomaically bring mil h firs
w ims, bu ar a whil, youd hin ouriss would g wih h pro-
gram. I man, dosn i sin in ha mil isn brough wih coffe and you
hav o as whn you ordr i in Franc ar i happns h nh im? Noons eping a masr lis around hr o how ach visior as his coffe.
Sharp minds figur i ou vnually, hough, and mos popl who
wan o down a hy mug o milk coffe will ordr a ca au lai, which
lirally ranslas as coffe wih mil. Jus so you now, ca au lai is
srvd only a braasa homsippd wih popl youv spn h
nigh wih. Cas don srv ca au lai, xcp rndy Frnch-sl cas
in Nw Yor and Brly.An hons-o-goodnss ca au lai is a larg, saming-ho coffe wih
16 8 D AV I D L E B O V I T Z
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so your no lily o g any raisd ybrows h way you onc migh hav.
Bu wha you rally wan o as your wair or is a caf crme. Unlss yourwaing up nx o him, which is nirly possibl givn hir rpuaion.
I ha happns, I can giv you much guidanchas ou o my
rang o xpris, bu unli maing coffe, i is on sill ha h Frnch
do xcl a.
CAFE FRANAIS
Should you plan on drining your coff in cas, no in srangrs
homs, Im happy o hlp you ou.
Caf expressSomims calld caf nor, caf naure, or caf normal.
his is a small, sprsso-syl coff. (Calling i an sprsso would
rais h ir o Ialians vrywhr.) I you simply say you wan a
ca, his is wha your going o g. Evry im.
Caf serr A igh caf express, mor concnrad sinc is mad
wih lss war han a caf express.
Caf allong A caf express mad wih xra war during h x-
racion. I your in a ca and you wan o lingr longr, ordr on
o hs.
Caf lgerA caf expresswih ho war addd ar is xracd.
No rcommndd. A all.
Caf noisette Caf express wih a hazlnu-sizd dollop o
samd mil floaing on op. Rcommndd i you find h as o
Parisian coff off-puing. D riguur o ordr on lauoroueor on
rains, whr h ood, li coff, will challng anyons prcp-
ion ha vryhing in Franc is dlicious.
Caf dcafin Onc upon a im ordring anyhing dcaffinad
T H E S WE ET L I F E I N PA R I S 16 9
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a lam Amrican. Now hy all ordr i, oo, and simply say undca.
All coffs can b ordrd dcaffinad by simply saying
dca a h nd o your ordr. Bu i your oldr wair gruns whn
you do, you migh b up lar han youd li.
Caf amricain Amrican-syl coff is somims calld caf filre,
which is brwd or filrd. Cauion: Somims youll b givn
ward-down caf express. Commonly srvd a hol braass
or a hom.
Caf soluble or caf instantan Insan coff. Avoid a all coss.
Caf au lait Caf express or srong brwd coff lighnd wih
warm mil, srvd in a bowl, only a hom, or braas. Or in
rndy bisros in Amrica or $6.50.
Caf crme A caf express srvd in a cup wih warm (gnrally sr-
ilizd) mil addd. Availabl in normalorpe, in which cas you
as or un pe crme.
Cappuccino A caf express srvd in a cup wih los o rohy,
samd mil. Som cas will pu i in a ooy glass mug, add a ligh
dusing o brown powdr, and charg a whol lo mor han hy
should or i. I you rally wan a cappuccino, go o Ialy.
Caf viennoisCoff wih whippd cram, a drin youll usually
find in an ic cram shop or a salon, alhough som cas will
whip on up. (Alhough is unlily hyll whip up ral cram or
i.) I you g on in h righ plac, as h whippd cram bor
adding i o your coff; Frnch whippd cram is so good, you may
wan o sip h coff undrnah, which will ruin i.
Caf frapp or caf glac Procd wih cauion sinc is no rally
17 0 D AV I D L E B O V I T Z
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and is gnrally ooh-achingly sw and srvd in a chinzy por-ion, wih on hal-assd ic cub bobbling on op. I will invariably
b oo xpnsiv or wha you g, so don g your hops up. You
do g a cool sirrr, hough.
A w mor cavas: Ar a mal, hin o coffe as a d puncua-
ion mar ha signals h clos o a mal, no an opn-ndd inviaion osay wih rfill ar rfill. A caf crmeis nvr srvd ar lunch or dinnr,
alhough is bcoming mor commonplac as an arnoon drin, sinc
is lingr-findly. Coffe is srvd only ar a mal, nvr during, and
only ar dssr. Youll nvr g i a h sam im sinc is no con-
sidrd correc. And you always wan o b corrc, non?
Las, in cas your a coffe lovr and com o Paris, hrs always
a, which was somhing I nvr rally undrsood h appal o unil Imovd hr. Now Im drining i mor han vr. Who would hav hough
ha living in Paris would acually ma m mor Ialian?
S H A K E R A T O
BLENDED ICED COFFEE
M A K E S 2 S E R V I N G S
Youd hin popl who word around coffe all day long would b ird o h
suff. Bu h mploye coffe bar a Illy in ris was h busis plac in own.
T woman bhind h bar didn hav any nos rings or aoos. In ac, shlood as i sh could b somons Ialian grandmohr. Bu boy, could sh
T H E S WE ET L I F E I N PA R I S 17 1
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caugh my y. I was mosly an wih h nam, which I lovd, and h ida o
a wll-mad fost coffe drin was hard o rsis.
Hr Iv addd liquur o giv h sharao a bi o a ic, which I saw
bing don in a w caffsin ris. Frnch popl lov Bailys, which hy pro-
nounc Bay-layz, bu your wlcom o play around wih ohr liquurs. I you
wan o sip h liquur aloghr, rplac i wih a w gnrous squirs o
chocola syrup.
2 medium scoops vanilla or coffee ice cream, softened slightly
2 or 3 shots strong espresso, cooled
1/2 cup (125 ml) Baileys Irish Cream
A few ice cubes
Unsweetened cocoa powder or grated chocolate
1. In a cocail shar or blndr, combin h ic cram, sprsso,
Bailys, and ic.2. Sha or blnd vigorously, unil h ic cram has mld and is
smooh.
3. Pour ino shor umblrs and sprinl h ops wih cocoa powdr. I
you us a blndr, hr may b ragmns o ic, which I don mind. I you
do, srain hm ou.
TARTE TAT I N , PO U R L E REG I ME
CARAMELIZED APPLE TART (LOW-FAT)
M A K E S 8 S E R V I N G S
Many Frnch womnand mnar obsssd wih le rgime, or hir di.
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avrag Frnchman gaind 11.8 pounds. (Forunaly hr wr no publishd
saisics abou h wigh gain o Amrican mn whov movd o Franc.) And
vn hough Frnch popl don obsss as much as w do abou wha hy a,
hr ar plnt o Parisians who will radily admi ha hyd li o los a w
ilos.
Tis is my di vrsion o h classic ar ain, an opn-acd ar o
caramlizd appls on a vry hin she o ak pasry. Sinc I us appls
ha hav los o avor, all has nedd is a pa o bur o add a bi o rich-
nss.I may b hoplssly Amrican whn I say his, bu a good accompanimn o
ar ain is a saming cup o sprsso, and Ill njoy hm oghr a hom.
Bu i you com o Paris, si in a ca, and ordr boh a h sam im, and you
g a unny loo, don say I didn warn you.
For the dough
3
/4 cup (110 g) flour1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch (2-cm) cubes
and chilled
3 tablespoons (45 ml) ice-cold water
For the apples
8 firm, tart baking apples
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted or salted butter
1/2 cup (120 g) packed dark brown sugar
1. o ma h dough, combin h flour, sal, and sugar in a ood
procssor, sanding mixr, or pasry blndr. Add h bur and mix unilh bur is in pa-sizd chuns. Sir in h war and mix jus unil h
T H E S WE ET L I F E I N PA R I S 17 3
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2. o ma h ar, quarr, pl, and cor h appls. oss h pics
wih h lmon juic in a big bowl and s asid.3. Ml h bur in a 10-inch (25-cm) cas-iron sill. Sir in h
brown sugar and rmov rom ha.
4. Arrang h appl quarrs in h pan roundd sid down, wih hir
cord sids acing upwards. ighly pac h appls in ovrlapping con-
cnric circls. Rally cram hm in. I may sm li a lo, bu hyll coo
down, so don worry.
5.
Coo ovr mdium ha or 20 o 25 minus. Do no sir or movh appls whil cooing, bu gnly prss hm down slighly wih a spa-
ula as hy son.
6. Whil h appls ar cooing, prha h ovn o 400F (200C).
Posiion a rac in h uppr hird o h ovn.
7. Roll h dough on a lighly flourd surac ino a 12-inch (30-cm)
circl. (I will b hin, bu don worry.) Drap h dough ovr h appls,
ucing in h dgs, and ba h ar on an uppr rac o h ovn or 35o 40 minus, unil h dough is goldn brown.
8. Rmov rom h ovn and invr a baing sh ovr h ar. Hold
h sill in plac waring an ovn mi and flip boh h sill and h
baing sh simulanously, bing carul o any ho pan juics. Li off
h sill, loosn any appls ha may hav suc, and runi hm wih
h ar.
SERVING: Srv ar ain warm, wih a scoop o vanilla ic cram or
crm rach (pag 193). A Brhillon in Paris, h amd ic cram shop,
hy srv a picur-prc vrsion in hir a salon wih a scoop o
caraml ic cram, which is ovr-h-op good.
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http://www.randomhouse.com/crownhttp://www.indiebound.org/book/9780767928892http://itunes.apple.com/us/book/the-sweet-life-in-paris/id419974908?mt=11http://books.google.com/ebooks?as_brr=5&q=9780767928892http://www.borders.com/online/store/TitleDetail?defaultSearchView=List&LogData=[search:+17,parse:+69]&cm_mmc=CJ-_-2193956-_-2665379-_-88x31+logo&type=1&searchData={productId:null,sku:null,type:1,sort:null,currPage:1,resultsPerPage:25,simpleSearch:false,navigation:5185,moreValue:null,coverView:false,url:rpp%3D25%26view%3D2%26type%3D1%26page%3D1%26kids%3Dfalse%26nav%3D5185%26simple%3Dfalse%26sku%3D9780767928892,terms:{sku%3D9780767928892}}&storeId=13551&catalogId=10001&sku=076792889X&ddkey=http:SearchResults&cmpid=pub-rh-1117http://search.barnesandnoble.com/books/product.aspx?r=1&afsrc=1&ISBSRC=Y&ISBN=9780767928892http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/076792889X?ie=UTF8&tag=randohouseinc2-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=076792889X