Renewable Sustainable WOOL

100 % NaturalRenewableSustainable

WOOLChaNge tO a heaLthieR aNd SafeR eNviRONmeNt

IWTO - International Wool

Textile Organisation

Rue de l’Industrie 4

1000 Brussels - Belgium

Phone: +32 2 505 40 10

Fax: +32 2 503 47 85

E mail: [email protected]

Web site: www.iwto.org

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ChaNge tO a heaLthieR aNd SafeR eNviRONmeNt

missionIWTO mission is to help our Wool Industry Members to understand the textile demands of the consumers, and to enhance the responce to them with products and promotional activities especially developed to meet their needs, with a fibre that is highly desirable for its social, technical, comfort and sustainable values. The expected outcome should be a better positioning of the Wool fibre on top of consumers’ choices and preferences, and to bring a steady increase of wool sales and higher market share, and the maintenance of commercial advantages along the entire wool demand chain, from retailers to woolgrowers, all around the world.

the 4 Pillars of iWtO

trading instruments

• Test Methods

• Regulations

• Arbitration

• Market

Information / Statistics

• Licensing

Test

• Laboratories

facilitating industry Strategy

• Forum to

discuss the strategies of

the wool industry in respect to Marketing, R&D and

other areas of the wool

textile pipeline

• Act as the catalyst for the

implemen-tation of

Marketing strategies

market access

development

• Advocating

political and economical

interests of the wool

sector towards governments

and organisations

Networking

•

Building world wide

industry relationships

through Congresses and events

• Membership communica-tion via IWTO

website

about us

vision

IWTO is the international body rep-resenting the interests of the world’s wool-textile trade and industry. As such, its membership covers the woolgrowers, traders, primary pro-cessors, spinners and fabric mak-ers of wool and allied fibres in its member-countries, as well as all kind of organisations related to wool products and the wool business in general. It provides for them a forum for discussion of problems of joint concern and acts as their spokesman with all those bodies and authorities towards whom a common approach is deemed necessary.

To position and to value wool clearly in the consumer mind as a material which is desirable for its technical, ethical and comfort values.

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The Wool IndusTry…

O produces around 2.1 million tons of greasy wool per year.O takes care of more than 1 billion sheep around the

world maintaining high standards of animal welfare.O produces wool on several million small-hold and

commercial farms worldwideO sells US $80billion of wool products annually at retailO in the EU alone, is made up of thousands of industrial

manufacturing companies working with wool as a raw material

O employs millions of people in wool production, harvesting and throughout its many processing stages

general Overview

facts

history

Wool

Wool is NaturalO RenewableO SustainableO BiodegradableO Low carbon impactO Energy efficient

Wool is SafeO Flame resistantO UV protectionO Static electricity reductionO High thermal resistance

Wool is healthyO BreathableO Humidity controlO Low allergyO Toxic chemical absorptionO Sound reduction

Wool is a natural fibre for the world we live in today. It is a fibre with a true ‘green’ lineage that is both sus-tainable and biodegradable - which are now highly valuable assets to the textile industry. This environmental advantage is increasingly a sought after requirement of fibre but wool has many other inherent benefits that have historically earned it a quality reputation from global manu-facturers and consumers.

Performance is critical in textiles and wool’s multi-capable reputation in the finished product is built on a legacy that goes back over 10,000 years. Transcending generations of change shows the vast potential of wool to meet, adapt and fulfil complex product scenarios.

Wool offers practical attributes that far exceed man-made fibres and as it is grown, not made, its physical cell structure is complex allowing

wool the natural ability to breathe. Uniquely it absorbs and releases humidity and provides a climate that is capable of adjusting to individual situations which ensures you are warm but never hot.

In addition it is the safe fibre - a high water and nitrogen content make it naturally flame retardant and it meets many international regula-tions without the need for chemical treatments. It absorbs unhealthy carbons in the atmosphere providing a better environment.

Wool is a globally traded commodity and its market diversity is vast and ever expanding. It is found in many sectors; apparel and fashion, active-wear, flooring and interiors, aviation, architecture, manufacturing, medical use and protective apparel. These all use wool and with this dynamic versatility, it has proved itself to be the original ‘Smart’ fibre.

Research and development with wool continually pushes this po-tential further, opening doors to a future that will safeguard an in-dustry, which is a major worldwide employer and bringing multiple benefits to people, products and the planet.

Despite all these positive attributes, consumers, industry and govern-ments continue to be oblivious of the Health and Safety benefits wool can bring. As a result of subsequent low wool prices, less and less farm-ers are likely to grow wool in the future. With this in mind, the wool industry needs support to redress this threat to its existence.

Wool… the new fibre just 10,000 years old. All through biblical times… in the long chronicles of Roman and Grecian history… through the Dark Ages… into the Renaissance to the era of discovery, exploration and settlement, sheep have performed their marvellous double duty of feeding and clothing mankind. Throughout history, the complexity and versatility of the unique woollen fibre has led to its amazingly broad range and multi-purpose usage in woollens. Woollen fibres accept and hold dyes of any spectrum, weave, knit, felt, etc. into an unlimited number of fabrics and offers warmth, cooling and tactile qualities unmatched in any other fibre. Wool stands today, as it did ten thousand years ago, as the premier clothing and interior textile fibre.

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Clothe our children in wool and…allow their skin to breathe more easily, keeping them warm in winter and cool in summer whilst protect-ing them from harmful UV rays and the risk of fire. Use wool in active-wear, sports-wear and work-wear and…discover superior comfort and a healthy wearer-sensitive climate, which provides perspiration manage-ment and essential odour control. Wool’s natural elasticity - up to 30% flexible extension without damage - coupled with its resilience, moisture absorption and unique flame retar-dant attributes make it a healthy, safe fibre for sport and work wear. Fit more wool-rich carpets in our houses and public buildings and…limit airborne dust, stimulate inter-nal humidity control, reduce heat loss and cushion noise. In the home,

approximately 10-20% of heat is lost through the floor; wool carpets insulate the home and can save an average of 11.3% on domestic energy consumption. Equip buildings with wool interiors and…bring improved fire safety and air quality to the interior. Wool is natu-rally flame resistant, does not melt or drip and emits less smoke and toxic gases than any other commonly used fibre. Additionally, wool’s complex cell structure provides a natural chemistry that will clean the air and keep it purified for up to 30 years. Following the installation of wool in five buildings that had formaldehyde concentrations above the World Health Organisation’s recommended level of 0.05ppm; German research-ers recorded that the level in all five buildings had dropped below that level within 24 hours.

Use more wool in bedding and…enjoy 25% more deep regenera-tive sleep and improved fire safety properties. Recent studies show that when sleeping under a wool quilt, the heart rate will be statistically lower for the whole sleep period providing a more rested condition. Ensure wool is used in curtains and upholstery and…reduce excessive sound transfer, which causes noise pollution, provide additional protection against the hazard of fire posed by man-made fabrics in soft furnishings and further improve internal humidity control. Support the wool industry in protecting the word ‘wool’ from being abused and…ensure that the rights of every con-sumer that chooses to buy wool are protected because only real wool must be allowed to be marketed with this valuable description.

Wool - Change to a Safer and Healthier Environment

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Renewable… Sustainable… Natural

The wool industry is committed to the highest standards of sheep care and well-being and supports scientific research in this area. Wool farmers are dedicated to the job of looking after their animals and keeping them healthy, to ensure the wool maintains the right qualities for the textile industry. Farmers are always looking towards the best available animal husbandry practices to ensure good economic management of their business and optimum results in their produce. The routine care of sheep will include shearing, foot pairing and feet care, drenching for worms, dipping for lice, crutching, vaccinations, nutrition (pasture manage-ment and supplements) and birthing assistance. This proactive approach provides uncompromising welfare standards for sheep across the world.

“Wool runs on grass!”

Animal Welfare & Environment

Wool is an annually renewable natural resource grown on sheep. It is a planet friendly fibre as it has the abil-ity to biodegrade without harm to the environment and can be recycled.

These inherent advantages continue to underpin wool’s heritage as today’s best natural eco-fibre, just as they have done for many previous generations.

Lower embodied energy

A fundamental requirement in sus-tainable products is the capacity to limit energy use in production. Wool products use a fraction of the energy of a comparable manmade material.

Security of supply

Wool is one of the earth’s most sus-tainable resources; it is an annually shorn and replenished resource. The amount of wool available to supply the global textile industry is only limited by the number of sheep farmed across the world.

Lower transportation footprint

Wool is sourced at home or abroad, when imported it can be shipped eas-ily in a high-density form, which gen-erates a lower carbon footprint.

A long life material

Wool can last for many hundreds of years without losing its resilience or structure. This is historically ex-emplified in carpet, which can resist footfall in high traffic areas without losing either its appearance or its robust ability to function.

100% biodegradable

Wool is a long-life fibre, maintaining its moisture retention properties and flexibility for many years. It will then biodegrade in soil without harm to the planet and the environment, fulfilling optimum life-cycle benefits.

Low carbon impact

Significantly less energy is required in the production of wool products compared to manmade fibre products and this ensures carbon dioxide emis-sions are kept very low. Therefore the increased usage of wool can positively reduce the level of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere.

Natural & Biodegradable

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Technical Textiles: Aircraft interiors, thermal insulation, sound insulation, sound vibration control, roof insulation, filtration, fire proof wear, police uniforms, military uniforms, air conditioning, bandages, second skin injury prevention, piano felts, wool filters for dust chemical odours, billiard cloths, automotive composites, tennis balls

Applications

Wool is a multifunctional fibre in a range of different fibre diameters for apparel, interior and technical textiles.

Interior Textiles: Carpets, duvets, mattresses, pillows, blankets, upholstery, tapestries, lamps, chairs, rugs, futons, bedspreads, tablecloths, wall coverings, sofas, felts

Apparel: Suits, jackets, pullovers, coats, sportswear, skiwear, scarves, gloves, socks, hats, underwear, active wear, childrens wear, thermal underwear, waterproof fabrics, casual wear, shoes, formal wear, hand knitting wool, uniforms, kilts

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TechnicalFi l ters a i r , dust , chemicals , gas &

odours I Elast ic i t y I C

on

trolle

d fe

lting

I Hold

s colour I Sweat transfer I Comfort, softness, handle & drape I B

reathable I

Sound & V

ibra

tion

I H

ea

t &

Co

ld I

ns

ula

t io

n I

Fi r

e R

esis

tanc

e I Ant is

tat ic

I Moisture Absorpt ion I

Interior trimmings

Flight Attendant apparel Air

conditioning

Sound & vibration control

Toxic chemical

filter

Heat exchangers Wool filters

for dust /chemical odours

PulloversHatsUniforms

Vital signs vest

Ski Wear

Piano Felts

Wool filters for dust /chemical odours

Air/dust Filters

Gaskets & Washers

Second Skin Injury Prevention

Wound Dressings

Police uniforms

Military uniforms

Socks & gloves

Children's nightwear

Infant Apparel

Firefighters uniformsUpholstery

Drapes

Roof Insulation

Quilts

Blankets

Wall Coverings

Carpets

Pressure Bandages

Medical SheepskinsBandages

Buffering Pads

Absorbs Toxic Metals

Baby Blankets

Sheepskin seat covers

Thermal underwear

Baseball Filling

Olympic Uniform

Waterproof Fabrics

SportwoolClothing

Billiard Cloths

MolecularTemplating

Intelligent Kneesleeve

Inherently conductivepolymers

Sheepskin boots & garments

Fashion garments

Waterproof garments

Machine washable suits

Electrostatic filters

Aircraft interiors

Interior soundproofing

Non-WovenGarments

Accessories

Flannels

Thermal underwear

Milinery

Woven garments

AV I AT I O NP R OT E CT I V E

A P PA R E L

P R OT E CT I O N I N I N D U S T R YA R C H I T E CT U R E

A P PA R E L

M E D I C A L

S P O R T S

S M A R TT E X T I L E S

M A N U FA C T U R I NG

matrix

cortex

fibre diameter

intermediate filament

(microfibril)

left handed coiled-coil

rope

right handed - helix

macrofibril

cellmembrane

complex

F-layer: fatty acid layerepicuticle

exocuticleendocuticle

cuticle

AIr fIlTers

ConTrolled felTIng

superb hAndle And drApe

renowned sofTness And

ComforT

sweAT removAl

InsulATIng

breAThAblesound

proofIng

holds Colour

fIre resIsTAnT

Absorbs wATer

elAsTIC

wrInkle reCovery

AnTI-sTATIC

permAnenT press

resIsTs sTAInIng

wATer repellenT

durAble

Wool offers a very broad range of uses

Wool has unique attributes

Source: CSIR

OSource: C

SIRO

Wool means: Non-flammable

Wool is non-flammable unlike almost all alternatives. It simply requires more oxygen than is avail-able in the air to become flammable and this makes it a superior fibre for fire safety. Furthermore, it does not melt, drip or stick to the skin when it burns.

Safe & Healthy

Wool can also absorb a number of VOCs from surrounding materials and lock this within the fibre core permanently.

Wool means: A better material for sensitive locations

The safety profile of wool makes it an ideal product for every location but particularly for those where health and safety is paramount. Hospitals, churches, schools, nursing homes and public transport can all benefit from its long lasting natural abilities and high performance ensuring sustained risk prevention.

Wool means: Less static electricity

Due to its moisture absorption ca-pabilities, wool is far less likely to cling to the body when worn.

Wool means: Low allergy

Wool does not harbour dangerous chemicals, dust or mould that can lead to allergic or other reactions.

Wool means: Less Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)

VOCs are organic chemicals which vaporize and enter the atmosphere as an air pollutant. Wool is a natu-ral product and emits no VOCs.

Wool means: A long safety record in insulation

The unbeatable safety profile of wool has been well proven. Insula-tion made from manmade fibres is more recent and is made from extremely fine, brittle strands, which on handling can become air-borne. These strands can damage the respiratory tract when inhaled and cause severe irritation to the skin. This necessitates safety clothing and masks during installation; these precautions are not necessary with wool insulation.

Wool means: More sound absorption

Wool is a perfect sound insulating material having the capacity to dampen or absorb both high and low frequency sound.

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Flammability Index of Carpets

fibre Ignition index (0,40)

flame spread

index (0,20)

heat evolved

index (0,20)

smoke evolved

index (0,20)

flamm-ability

index (0,40)

Wool 26 0 0 10 36Polypropylene 28 12 14 14 68Nylon 30 14 16 16 76Acrylic 28 16 20 14 78

Wool means: UV protection

Wool helps protect against the serious risk to skin and associated long-term health issues caused by the potentially damaging rays of the sun. Testing of various textiles in clothing show that wool has a natural UV protec-tion factor of 30+ in more than 70% of cases - this is much higher than most synthetics and cotton.

Static charge leakage from various fabrics, measured after 15 minutes at 15% humidity

0

20

40

60

80

100

Wool

Res

idua

l Vol

tage

Nylon Acrylic Polyester

Starting Voltage

Typical airborne sound absorption values

0

20

40

60

80

100

Concrete

Soun

d Ab

sorp

tion

(rel

ativ

e un

its)

Brick PVC Acoustic Tiles

Nylon Carpet

Wool Carpet

n Low Frequencyn High Frequency

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Wool means: Active perspiration control. Wool is more effective than synthetics at absorbing perspiration caused by exertion. The natural absorption of wool moves moisture away from the skin so that it can evaporate, ensuring coolness and dryness.

easy careWool has had a hand wash reputation in the past but wool has a natural resilience and modern wool fabrics are truly easy care.

Wool means: Durable. Wool fibres can be bent 20,000 times without breaking which explains why wool garments are so long-lasting.

Wool means: Odour reduction. Wool will absorb moisture, reducing sweat on the body, this in turn reduces the amount of resulting body odour, caused by sweat and its contact with any bacteria on the skin.

Wool means: Quick drying. It was formerly thought that synthetics dry at a faster rate than wool, however the latest technology enables wool to be as quick-drying.

Wool means: Stain resistant. Wool fibre has a protective layer that pre-vents stains from being absorbed. As it is also anti-static, it picks up less dust and lint from the air.

Branding & Consumer Friendliness

branding and Consumer friendlinessThe wool industry supports accu-rate and safe consumer rights to ensure protection against false and misleading statements and brand-ing. A detailed, consumer friendly system of identification and trace-ability of wool products, enables the consumer to have confidence in its quality attributes. However, support from governments and the respec-tive regulatory bodies is needed to protect this important benefit.

Comfort & safetyWool has numerous natural attributes that make it one of the most comfort-able and safest fibres to wear.

Wool means: Clothes that Breathe. Wool has the natural ability to breathe and can absorb up to 35% of its own weight in moisture due to its hydro-philic core. This is then naturally released as vapour in to the air and provides comfort from perspiration throughout the day. No other fabric offers this amazing wearer-sensitive comfort.

Wool means: Multi-climate. Wool is active and synthetics are passive. The active response of wool to fluctuations in body temperature offers warmth when it is cold but will self-adjust when temperatures increase by re-leasing heat and moisture to keep a comfortable clothing climate.

Wool means: Health. Wool has a number of health benefits including improved sleep for the general popu-lation, reduced risk of SIDS (Sudden Infant Death Syndrome) for babies, and lower incidence of microbial infection for hospital patients.

Uruguayan Wool

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Statistics

The main use of wool - 66% is in the manufacturing of garments (apparel) followed by the use in interiors - 30%, which includes carpets, rugs and upholstery. Finally, the industrial use of wool accounts for 4%.

world sheep population by country

Comparison of fibre properties

energy used in the production of textiles

world wool production: Clean 2007 (% share)

Continental Europe 17,5 %

CIS 7,5 %

Argentina 4,0 %South Africa 2,3 %

Uruguay 2,9 %

Others 10,3 %

UK 2 %

Australia 25,0 %

China 14,8 %

New Zeeland 13,7 %

Total 1,202 mkg

world fibre production: 2007 (% share)

Silk 0,2 %

Cotton 37,3 %

Flax 1,4 %

Wool 1,7 %

Man Made Fibre 59,3 %

Total 69,149 mkg

2007

China 171,961,000Australia 85,711,000CIS 72,421,000India 64,269,000Iran 52,220,000Sudan 49,000,000New Zealand 39,122,000United Kingdom

33,946,000

Pakistan 26,500,000Turkey 25,400,000Nigeria 23,994,000Ethiopia 23,700,000Spain 21,847,000South Africa 21,275,000

Syria 21,000,000Algeria 19,500,000Morocco 17,250,000Argentina 15,880,000Brazil 15,600,000Peru 15,000,000Mongolia 14,815,000Somalia 13,100,000Uruguay 11,000,000Afghanistan 10,000,000Greece 8,803,000France 8,499,000Italy 8,227,000Romania 7,678,000Others 199,389,000TOTAL 1,097,108,000

wool polyester nylon Acrylic

AppearanceDrape 1 3 3 2Texture 1-2 3 3 2Colour 1-2 3 2 1Crease retention 2 1 2 3Wrinkle recovery 2 1-2 2 3ComfortMoisture absorption 1 5 4 5Elasticity 1-2 2 2 3Permeability 1-2 4 4 4Insulation 1 4 4 4PerformanceWater repellency 1-2 2 2 3Abrasion resistance 2-3 1 1-2 2-3Laundering 1 1 1 2Drycleaning 1 3 2 4UV stability 2 1 3 1SafetyFire resistance 1-2 3 3 5Anti-static 1 5 4 5Acid resistance 1-2 1 4 1

Includes woolled and non-woolled sheepSources: FAO of the United Nations/The Woolmark Company

* kg of oil used to produce 1 kg of final fabric

(Ratings: 1=excellent, 2=very good, 3=good, 4=moderate, 5=poor)

Sour

ce: T

he W

oolm

ark

Com

pany

virgin wool consumption at retail stage 2007

Far East 30,9 %

West Europe 25,0 %

North America 13,7 %

Other Europe/CIS 9,2 %

Others 21,2 %

Total 1,231 mkg clean

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Nylon

Oil

Usa

ge*

Acrylic Polyester Wool

about us

vision



2







general Overview

facts

history

Wool



















Phone: +32 2 505 40 10

Fax: +32 2 503 47 85



Pho

to c

redi

ts: A

ustr

alia

n W

ool I

nnov

atio

n, A

mie

desi

gngr

oup

2009

- D

esig

n: w

ww

.acg

-bxl

.be




trading instruments

• Test Methods

• Regulations

• Arbitration

• Market


• Licensing

Test

• Laboratories


• Forum to




textile pipeline


implemen-tation of


market access

development

• Advocating




and organisations

Networking

•

Building world wide




website

about us

vision



2







general Overview

facts

history

Wool



















Phone: +32 2 505 40 10

Fax: +32 2 503 47 85



Pho

to c

redi

ts: A

ustr

alia

n W

ool I

nnov

atio

n, A

mie

desi

gngr

oup

2009

- D

esig

n: w

ww

.acg

-bxl

.be




trading instruments

• Test Methods

• Regulations

• Arbitration

• Market


• Licensing

Test

• Laboratories


• Forum to




textile pipeline


implemen-tation of


market access

development

• Advocating




and organisations

Networking

•

Building world wide




website

Documents

Renewable Sustainable WOOL