Class Lectures (Chapters 1 – 50)Guiding Eyes for the Blind

Chapter 1: RULES AND REGULATIONS

Non Discrimination Policy: Guiding Eyes for the Blind does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, marital status, national origin, or any other basis prohibited by law in the administration of its admissions, education and other programs.

Drugs: Prescription drugs are allowed. Anyone in possession of illegal non-prescription drugs will have training terminated, be reported to the police, and will be sent home immediately.

Alcohol: Those of legal age, which is 21 for NY State, may drink wine, wine coolers and beer in moderation. Hard alcoholic beverages are not permitted on grounds. Possession of hard alcohol, excessive drinking and sharing alcohol with minors are all grounds for dismissal and termination of training. Consumption of wine and beer is allowed only in the evening after all of the day's work (including lecture) is completed. All alcoholic beverages should be stored in student rooms, please do not store alcohol in common areas.

Smoking: New York State law states that smoking is not allowed inside of public buildings. The legal smoking age is 18 years. Therefore in compliance with this, Guiding Eyes regulation does not allow smoking in the buildings, including the dormitory rooms. Smoking is also not allowed in the class vans or while working a dog. There are two smoking areas outside the dormitory buildings. One is out the glass door at the end of Country hall, past the laundry room. The second area is at the other end of Country hall by the lobby, outside the door & to the right. Smoking is not permitted in the park areas outside the dormitory rooms, as smoke can filter in to the bedrooms via the climate control units & windows. In White Plains, smoking is permitted outside in the back. There are benches in this area. You may also smoke on the balcony upstairs at the lounge. All of these locations have ashtrays provided; please use them. Please be careful when smoking if your dog is present as you could accidently spill hot ash on the dog.

Walking in the building: We ask that you always stay to the right and trail the wall when walking in the building. You may know where you are without trailing the wall, but someone coming towards you may not. This is especially important on the stairs. When you go up or down the stairs, make sure there is no one in front of you - only one person on the stairs at a time. When you get to the top or the bottom of the stairs, please let the person behind you know, so they can continue. It is very important that you always use the right side of the stairs.

If you enter a room, you should announce your presence so anyone else in the room will know you're there. If someone else enters a room where you are, please let them know

you are there. If you are in the lobby or Alumni Hall and someone else enters, please let them know if there is an empty seat next to you by tapping the seat.

Feel free to use your canes if it will help you learn the building layout at the school and also at the White Plains lounge. If you are carrying a hot drink in the building, please put a lid on it to avoid spilling it on your dog or on another person.

Dorm Rooms: Each room has two doors: one hall door and one park door. You have keys to your doors, and should keep them locked. When going out of a room, please get in the habit of shutting the door completely, especially the park doors.

Emergency Buzzer: You will be shown the location of the emergency buzzers in your room. There is one in the bedroom & one in the bathroom. If an emergency occurs, pull the switch down and leave it in that position. This is to be used only in the event of a real emergency, i.e. you or your dog is sick. Do not pull the buzzer as a joke.There are emergency buzzers in the other student use areas as well. When doing orientation to these areas, be certain that you know the location of the emergency buzzers.

Phones: You may dial long distance (including Canada) from your rooms. You just have to dial 7 then 1 and the area code and the 10 digit number. The phones will accept all incoming calls. Please be considerate when using cell phones. If you are in a room with other people, please go elsewhere to have your conversation. This includes the White Plains facility.

Daily Schedule: This can vary from time to time, but is fairly standard.6:00 am: Wake-up, park-feed-water-park. 7:15 am: Breakfast8:00 – 8:15 am: Depart for daily training12:00 pm: Lunch3:30 - 4 pm: Return from daily training4:00 pm: Feed-water-park5:00 pm: Dinner6:00 pm: Lecture (the first week)7:30 pm: Water-park9:30 pm: Final Park for the first two nights; after that it can be later, but no earlier than 9 p.m.

If you are awake before 6 a.m. please do not interact with your dog, they should remain in their crate until the 6:00 a.m. feed, water park time. We ask this in order to establish a schedule, avoid accidents and respect the needs of the other dormitory occupants both dog and human. If the dogs in the other rooms hear noises such as food scooping, bowls clanging, crates opening, etc… they may be more likely to become active or vocal and wake their partners.

Lights Out at 10 p.m. At this time, the outside doors are locked for the night and lights in the common areas may be turned off. If you plan to be outside past 10 p.m., you must carry your park door key with you. You do not have to go to bed at 10, but we do ask that you do not use your room stereos unless you use the headphones, and that you keep the radio, TV, and any conversations in your rooms, the coffee room or lobby at a low volume. Please be considerate with such things as playing music loudly. If you wish to socialize, we suggest you use the coffee room, lobby or upstairs student common areas.Remember that it is in your best interest to get plenty of rest while you are in class. Mail: Mail is delivered to GEB 5 days a week. Maintenance staff picks it up from our PO Box at the Post Office Mon – Fri. Instructor staff will bring you your mail if you get any. If you have mail you would like to send out, leave it on the credenza and it will be picked up. Stamps can be purchased at the front receptionist's desk.

Nursing: Staff nurses are available from 6:00 a.m. to 8:30 a.m. and from 3:30 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily, seven days per week. Please do not hesitate to go to them if you have any medical concerns. Nurses are on call at all times.

Shopping: We have volunteers that will shop for students and pick up toiletries, food items, etc. Usually the first volunteer will come on Wednesday or Thursday. Class instructors will let you know when a volunteer is scheduled to come. A representative from the Student Services Department will be taking shopping lists during class. Some volunteers will take students shopping. Please let the instructors know that you are leaving and approximately how long you will be gone. Your dog is to be left in your room on tie down. Please make sure you are back for park times.

Church: Volunteers are also available to take you to church. The Volunteer Coordinator will be taking a Church list on the first Monday of class.

Visiting Hours: The visiting hours are as follows: on the Sunday that ends the first week hours are from 1 to 4 p.m., the Saturday at the end of the second week hours are from 4 p.m. on, on the Sunday following week two visiting hours are from 12 noon on, as long as you have completed the day's work. If you plan to leave campus during visiting hours, your dog should stay on campus, please plan to be back for park times and notify the instructor where you are going and what time you expect to be back. The dorm locks automatically after 10pm so bring your room key if your plans involve a late return time. There may be other times you can have visitors or leave for special appointments; please discuss these with the Class Supervisor. The kitchen staff should be notified if you plan on skipping a meal.

Fire Drills: We are required to hold two fire drills, one announced and one unannounced. The first one will be the first or second night after building orientations are completed. Instructors will make an announcement. When you hear the fire alarm go off, the fire doors will shut. You should exit your room through the park door. You may use your canes. You should stay outside until the alarm has been silenced. The second fire drill may be at any time, but will NOT be in the White Plains lounge. If the alarm goes off in

White Plains, it should be treated as a real emergency. If your dog is in your room while you are in another part of the building; continue to exit the building and inform a staff member of the location of your dog.

Student Resource Guide: We have a resource guide covering different departments such as housekeeping, nursing, volunteer services, local restaurants, and more. These are in large print and Braille and are both in the coffee room and the White Plains Lounge.

Chapter 2: EQUIPMENT

It is very important that you always keep your leash and harness on the hook either in your closet or on the back of your park door. Dogs love to chew on leather, especially when it is new. If your dog chews your harness or leash, you will have to replace it, and equipment is expensive.

The harnesses and leashes are very stiff because they are new. The more use they get, the softer they will become. Between now and the time you get your dog, you should try to spend some time bending, folding, and twisting your leash so that it will become more flexible. Leashes and harnesses also darken as they age.

We use various pieces of equipment now. Much more than the original slip, collar, harness, and leash. These are the three that will be discussed this evening however throughout the course of class you will be introduced to many more pieces of equipment as they are issued to you.

Slip or Training Collar: Slip collars are often referred to as "choke chains", but we call them "slip collars" because the collar, if used properly, should never choke the dog. We also call them “training collars”.

The slip collar is one of the most difficult pieces of equipment to grasp. It is a length of chain with an "O" ring at each end. To put the slip collar on, take one ring in each hand. Then hold one ring towards the ceiling and the other ring towards the floor. Turn the bottom ring so it is flat, like a quarter lying on a table. This ring is called the dead ring.

Now, allow the length of chain between the two rings to feed through the dead ring. At this point you should have made a loop out of the chain. The top ring following the length of chain going through the dead ring is called the live ring, and this is the ring that you will attach your leash to.

For this exercise, your left hand will simulate the dog's head, and your wrist will simulate the dog's neck. Stick your left hand, with palm facing down, straight out and parallel to the floor, and put the collar over your wrist. Both rings should be aligned with your thumb, so that you can grasp the live ring and snap it to the right. Try snapping the live ring several times to the right. If the collar snaps easily, and you can feel most of the

pressure across the top of your wrist, it is on correctly. If the collar is difficult to snap or does not release once it has been snapped, or if you feel the majority of the pressure on the underside of your wrist, it is on backwards. When on correctly, the pressure should release easily when you let go of the live ring.

Another useful way of describing whether or not the collar is on correctly is by following the chain attached to the dead ring. If the collar is on correctly then when you follow the chain away from the dead ring it should trail down towards the ground and under the dog’s head. The chain attached to the live ring should go through the dead ring and then up and over the dog’s neck.

Another way to think of this is to sit facing the dog; pull the chain through the O ring and hold it in the shape of the capital letter P. The long side of the P will be in your left hand, and you can slip the loop over the dog’s head and it will be in the right position.

You should never practice with the slip collar on a live dog. If you would like more practice with the slip collar before you get your dog, you may practice on one of the large stuffed toy dogs we have at Guiding Eyes. When you are putting the collar either on a real dog, the rings should be lined up with the dog's right ear. If the rings slide out of position, it is hard to tell whether the collar is on correctly or not.

Half Check Collar:You will each be issued a half check collar. The half check collar is constructed mostly of nylon; however it has a small portion which is metal. The collar will be adjusted so that even when the collar is pulled taught it can only get so tight and can not choke your dog.

From now on immediately following the afternoon feed, water and park time you will remove your dog's slip collar and put on the half check collar. You will switch back to your training collar again after the morning 6 o'clock feed, water, and park.

When you attach your dog to the tie down snap you will use the half check collar and attach the snap to both the ring and the loose chain. This will create a flat collar. This is the safest method when on a tie down.

This will also give you ample opportunity to practice putting the different training collars correctly.

Leash : The leash is a five-foot long piece of leather with a snap at each end. There is a small snap and a big snap. The large snap is the one that will attach to the live ring of your dog's collar. If you feel directly beneath the big snap, you will feel what we call a triple thickness of leather, where the leather has been folded over three times. This is a good way for you to remember which snap goes on the collar - the one above the triple thickness.

The small snap is located at the other end of the leash.. The small snap is never attached to the collar. This snap must be attached to one or the other of the 2 O-rings located on the leash at all times.

As you slide your hand down the leash from the large snap, next to the triple thickness you will find an O-ring. When the small snap is attached to this O-ring, the leash is in the shape of a large loop. This is called the working leash. This is the position the leash should be in when you are working your dog. When heeling your dog you will hold the leash slightly above the O-ring at the triple thickness. You should hold the leash in this manner when heeling your dog around the building to maintain control of the dog. The leash should be loose, not tight.

A few inches down the leash from the small snap, you will find another O-ring. When the leash is attached to this O-ring, the leash will have a small loop that will fit in your hand. This is called the long leash or obedience leash. This leash is used when parking your dog and for daily obedience.

Practice making the different leashes several times until you are comfortable with them.

Harness: We have various types of harnesses we use. Throughout the course of class if needed we may switch out pieces of your harness) ie: different length handle, different shape handle, different attachments to the harness body) If changes are made they will be expained to you at that time.

Place the harnesses on your left knee. For the purposes of this exercise, your thigh will simulate the dog's back, your knee will simulate the dog's neck, and your shin will simulate the dog's chest.

The body of the harness is made up of the back strap, the chest strap, and the belly strap. The back strap is that part of the harness that is resting on your thigh. It has the words "Guiding Eyes for the Blind" embossed on it.

The chest strap is that part of the harness that passes in front of your shin. The dog leans into the chest strap in order to pull and provide pressure in the handle.

The belly strap is that part of the harness that is dangling to the left of your leg. It has a buckle on the left side so it can be adjusted to fit each individual dog; however, once it is adjusted for your particular dog, you should not need to touch the buckle again. Pass the belly strap under your thigh and feel to the end of it. You will find a snap. All you have to do it push it against the D-ring located on the right side of the harness, and it will fasten. This is how the harness is held in place on the dog's body. When you are putting the harness on or taking it off of your dog, fold the belly strap over the back strap and hold them together as the harness passes over the dog's head, to prevent the loose belly strap from hitting the dog in the face.

Just above where the chest strap meets the back strap, on both the left and right of the harness, you will find two leather loops about three inches high, called the rabbit ears. The harness handle passes through the rabbit ears. The rabbit ears have two functions: one is to prevent the handle from going forward over the dog's head, and the other is to prevent the handle from sliding to the side when it is laid on the dog's back.

The handle is a rigid U-shaped steel rod that has been covered with leather. You hold the handle in your left hand when working the dog. You will feel tension in the handle when the dog is guiding; this is what allows you to follow the dog. The handle connects to the chest strap of the harness with two metal devices, one on the right and one on the left. Harness handles are designed to be able to be removed from the harness body. How it is removed will depend on what style of harness you are issued. Your instructor will go over it with you.

Strips of blue and silver reflective tape have been added to the harness for additional safety. This tape is sewn into the leather and is very durable. There are two pieces on the chest strap and two pieces on either side of the handle.

You should practice putting the harness on and taking it off of one of our large toy dogs as many times as necessary until you feel comfortable doing it.

Treat Pouch:You will each be issued a treat pouch. This is a nylon bag that is able to be clipped to your pants. You will use it to carry training treats or food kibbles. Food reward will be covered in Chapter 10.

12/20/13

Chapter 3: Review of Juno work

Wake-up call will be at 6:00 am. We will do Juno obedience in Alumni Hall before breakfast. Juno obedience is a way for you to learn the commands you will be using with your dog. The instructor will be holding the leash and playing the part of the dog ("Juno"). The commands we will be practicing are:

· Sit· Stay· Down· Heel

We will be explaining these commands in greater detail tomorrow when you do your individual Juno obedience. We use the term Juno because Juno was the patron Roman Goddess protecting travelers. When the guide dog movement in the US started, Latin terminology was much more widely used than it is today and the term Juno has become tradition.

After breakfast we will load in the vans and go to White Plains for the day. The Class Instructor Assistant will give you an orientation to the lounge. The Class Instructors will take you on a Juno walk, with the instructors playing the part of your guide dog. We will take you out 2 at a time. On the return you will be working with a live dog. The class supervisor will be observing all Juno walks.

During the Juno and live dog walks, the things we will be looking at are the pace or speed you are comfortable walking at, the amount of pull you are comfortable with, your voice intonations, and various other factors that come into play when we are making matches. We will also ask you questions about your living environment and intended use of the dog. If you have a strong preference for breed or type of dog, please let the instructors know during your Juno walks. We ask that you keep an open mind about what type of dog you get, and allow the instructors to choose the dog best suited to you regardless of color or sex. However, if you have a strong preference, we will make an effort to accommodate you if it comes down to a choice between two dogs.

Keep in mind that the speed you walk is the speed of the dog we will match you with. We have dogs that walk at various speeds from slow to fast, and we want you to have something you will be comfortable with for the next 8 years or so. Do not try to walk faster than you will feel comfortable walking when you are with a dog.

You will also be getting an introduction to the verbal commands and hand signals used in guide work on your Juno walk. Briefly, the commands used when working your dog are:

· Forward· Right· Left· Wait· To the Door· To the Curb· To the Stairs

Some of these commands will be explained in greater depth during your Juno walk. The rest will be introduced later.

For those of you who would like an orientation to our IT equipment or who need assistance getting your computers set up, a staff member from the IT department will be available to assist you either at White Plains or when we return to Yorktown. The computers at White Plains are connected to the master server here at Yorktown.

At some point during the day, the Kitchen Manager will speak with everyone about the kitchen and housekeeping.

Tomorrow evening after lecture, Becky Barnes will be hosting a Transitions Support Group. This is available for anyone who is here for a replacement dog and wants to discuss their feelings about a previous dog that has passed or had to retire.

Chapter 4: The Vocabulary of a Guide Dog

Guide dogs understand both verbal and physical signals that we often refer to as commands, cues or markers. They are broken down into two categories; the first being harness cues and the second being obedience cues. Harness cues only occur when the actual harness handle is being held by the handler. Obedience and other cues can occur both when the harness is off the dog and while the dog is wearing the harness but not while the handle is still in the handler’s hand.

Obedience and other non harness cues

· Back· Break· Come· Close· Down· Free· Get Busy· Harness up· Heel· Kennel· Leave it· Let’s Go· Off· Out· Place· Side· Sit· Stand· Stay· Touch· Yes

Harness Commands/cues

· Forward· Hup up· Left· Over· Right· Steady

· Targeting cues; To the curb, To the steps, To the chair· Wait

Brief descriptions of the above cues are listed below. They will have V, H, or VH after the command. These letters indicate V for verbal signals, H for hand signals, VH for both verbal and hand signals.

Obedience and other non harness cues

· Back- V: prompts dog to step backwards when required to do so; backing into a restaurant booth, train or plane seating.

· Break-V: releases the dog to a known action, usually to eat or play.

· Come- VH: dog comes to handler on verbal. No specific position. With more advanced work the come will be merged with a hand signal of two closed fists meeting in front of the handler.

· Close- VH: prompts the dog to do a semi circle turn into the handler as the handler is sitting. Generally with a hand signal to the left in the motion of a semi circle. Dog will either come between the handler’s legs or by their side.

· Down-VH: dog is lying down with its entire body making contact with the floor. Down can be utilized in many positions related to the handler. Dog responds to verbal and or hand held out in front of handler with palm of hand facing floor.

· Free- V: prompts the dog to be free from interaction with its handler.

· Get Busy- V: prompts the dog to begin the relieving process. Handler motions dog away from them with the leash towards the desired relieving location.

· Harness up- V: prompts dog that harness will be placed over their head and that they should be looking in direction of the harness.

· Heel- VH: dog comes into heel by making a semi circle turn or backing up. Heel is utilized to have a dog get into position to either work or walk loosely on leash. The hand signal is with the left hand making a large C motion at the handlers left side.

· Kennel- V: prompts dog to enter a crate.

· Leave it- V: to prompt the dog not to pick up food off the floor when on leash or in harness.

· Let’s Go- V: to initiate motion in the dog, generally to prepare for the next task.

· Off- V: to prompt the dog to stay off of surfaces intended for human use.

· Out- V: to release a toy when play retrieving

· Place- VH: prompts dog to go to a specific place, carpet, dog bed etc. Hand signal is a motion towards that location.

· Side- V: dog moves behind handler and to handler’s right side to prepare to exit a standard or revolving door.

· Sit- VH: dog is generally sitting by the handler’s left side. Not forging ahead or lagging behind. Sit can be used in other positions at times such as waiting at a counter in front of the handler. Dog responds to verbal and or a combination of light tapping of the handler’s left thigh.

· Stand: To initiate the dog into a standing position with all four paws on the ground. The hand gesture is given by having the flat palm of the hand both facing the dog and near its nose followed by a brisk hand movement away from the dog. The handler’s fingers should not be pointed up or down; instead they should be perpendicular to the floor.

· Stay –VH: dog is prompted to stay in any position or location from the handler that the handler asks. A verbal stay with no name is used as well as a flat palm facing the dog.

· Touch- VH: prompts dog to make contact with the handler’s closed fist. This can be a single fist used for targeting or a double fist for come.

· Yes- Unlike a command or cue this is a marker word, used to mark precisely the moment of the dog’s correct behavior or choice. Said in a crisp, quick, enthusiastic tone. YES is not a reward. YES simply says “that’s right!” and that a food reward is coming. Another common marker used in animal training is the clicker.

Harness Commands/Cues

· Forward- VH: initiates motion in the dog to lead out in front of handler. Hand signal is given as if handler is tossing a soft ball away from them.

· Hup up- V: prompts the dog to pull into the harness harder while moving to give the handler a quicker pace and more definitive pull.

· Left- VH: prompts the dog to back up and turn left while giving the handler clearance of obstacles on the dog’s side. Hand signal is given with the right hand across the handler’s body to the left.

· Over- VH: prompts the dog to move closer to the shoreline generally along a country road. Handler motions the dog towards the shoreline as the cue is given.

· Right- VH: prompts the dog to turn to the right while giving clearance around obstacles on the handler’s side. Hand signal is given with the right hand across the handler’s body to the right

· Steady- VH: prompts the dog to reduce its speed. Handler will let up on holding back in the handle as cue is given.

· Targeting Cues- VH: To the curb, steps or chair. The dog is prompted to work to the specific location with a verbal. In the teaching of a target the process begins with a fist target at the specific target. Gradually back chaining.

· Wait- V: prompts the dog to stop and wait for the next command/cue.

Chapter 5: Dog Day

Handling Social Media during the first week of class

We ask you, your family and friends to wait until Friday to make any mass public announcements, post on blogs, graduate lists, and social media regarding the dog you’ve been paired with. This will give time for Guiding Eyes to communicate with all departments including those who handle puppy raisers, special name patrons and the rest of the training staff.

On Dog Day morning before breakfast we will practice more Juno obedience and heeling. 9:15 AM: We will meet in Alumni Hall. Tom Panek, president of Guiding Eyes, will join us for a meet and greet. We will review how to respond when you get your dogs, what to expect for the first several hours & taking a leadership role. The class supervisor will then tell you your dog’s name, breed, color and sex. Everyone will then adjourn back to their rooms. If you need to have a smoke or get a soda, this will be the time to do it. We will bring your dog to your room. We will allow the dog to greet you, & you will give the dog 5 high value treats, 1 right after the other. We will give you your treats prior to your returning to your room. You may then clip your leash to the dog’s collar. You can pet your dog and get to know it. You should keep it on leash next to you at all times. Do not try to get it to play or allow it to jump on the bed - we want the dogs to remain

quiet and calm. If your dog does try to jump on the bed, tell it "Off” firmly and give it a leash cue towards the floor.

11:40: We will come & escort you up to the dining room, practicing heeling exercises along the way.

1:00pm: We will begin close contact recalls exercises. This will likely take place in the Grooming Room. If needed, we may have you park your dog. You will then go out to the lobby where we will fit your dog’s harness & then you & your dog will do your first walk out on Colonial Street, a quiet country road next to the school grounds.

3:45: The instructors will come to your rooms & go over the instructions for Feed-Water-Park. You will feed and water the dog and then take it outside to park. On the first few days, park times will be long because we are trying to get the dogs on a schedule, and we want them to have a long time to be able to relieve them selves. Initially you will not say anything to the dogs in the park area, because they may not go the first couple times, and they will quickly learn to tune you out if you say "Get Busy Get Busy Get Busy" over and over again. If your dog starts to relieve itself, we will let you know, and you can then say "Good Dog, Get Busy" a few times so the dog can begin to associate those words with its actions. For the first week, instructors will be picking up after your dog; after that you will be taught how to pick up.After Feed-Water-Park, we will escort you up to dinner & practice some heeling exercises along the way. After dinner, lecture will be at 6 as usual. At 7:30, there is another water & park time, which will be announced over the intercom. The final park time is at 9:30, and it will be announced Tuesday and Wednesday nights. After that, there will be no announced final park time, and you will be responsible for parking the dog yourself before you go to bed.The instructors will be staying in their rooms for most of Dog Day evening so that the dogs are able to relax with you rather than being constantly distracted by their instructors. We ask that you leave at least one room light on during the evening, even if you do not need it, because the dogs are used to a sighted world in which lights are on except for when everyone is sleeping. You can turn the lights off when you go to bed.

Chapter 6: Receiving your assigned dog

From this point on your will have to accommodate for both the dog and yourself as you negotiate doorways, stairs, chairs and elevation changes. It is important for you to think of how to protect the dog as you go through these normal daily routines.

For those of you that have worked with dogs in the past, remember that this is a new young dog who has not fully adapted to you yet. All students will get an understanding of how to communicate with a dog in order to achieve positive results.

Your journey as a new handler has begun. In order to be an effective dog handler you must first become a good leader. There are several elements that help to make a person a good leader.

As a handler you must be Fair, Clear and Responsible. Being fair means you behave the same way all the time in the presence of the dog. If you behave inconsistently the dog may respond inconsistently as well.

The handler must be clear and use the language that the dog understands. Instructors will work closely with you explaining how to speak calmly and remain emotionally neutral in the presence of the dog. We will review the specific commands that the dog knows and will teach you how to introduce a new command. Remember while it is possible to teach a new command, introducing too many new words or body language may in fact confuse the dog and cause a poor response. It is extremely important that the new handler be responsible. Having a dog is a lot like having a small child in your home. The dog will be providing mobility and companionship for you but it will also need constant care. Your dog will need to be fed and allowed to relieve itself on a regular basis. Your dog will thrive on having a routine. The dog will need daily exercise through working and playing. Your dog will need to visit a veterinarian at least once a year.

It will take a few hours before your new dog will settle into its surroundings and feel totally at home. This will be the initial adjustment period and your instructors will work closely with you to have the transition go as smoothly as possible. Your new dog has spent several months working closely with its instructor. During this process your dog has formed a very strong relationship with the instructor. This is a natural and important part of the process of guide dog training.

One of the reasons dogs have the ability to work for us is that they have a strong desire to be with humans. We can go back very far in time and see how dogs and humans have made a connection together. There is the theory that dogs and men hunted together and the dogs associated a positive experience of receiving food through their masters.

The dog’s general nature to please and be part of a pack is very crucial to how it perceives training. Dogs need to have a leader and cannot function without one. In wolf packs there is a scale of dominant to submissive wolves. There is always one very strong dominant wolf known as the Alpha.

It will be very important as we mentioned before that you take a strong leadership role. As humans we do not have to be as strict as Alpha perhaps but we do need to set clear limits with our dogs and communicate fairly. With guide dogs it is important that they receive that structure from you so that they can respond consistently in your presence.

You will observe that your new dog is still very interested in its instructor. As we mentioned above this is very natural. The dog has that strong connection with its

instructor and will need time to transfer over to its new leader. Be patient and understand that over time your dog will develop that same rapport with you. Once that is established the relationship between handler and dog can be very strong. There is no specific time limit on when this may take place. For most teams this turning over is a gradual experience and becomes stronger once you and your dog have returned home.

You will observe your dog wanting to go over to the instructors, whining or wagging their tail when the instructors approach. Again this is very natural and expected during the training process. This behavior does not mean that the dog does not want to be with you. At this point the dog does not understand that a new connection will be built with its new handler, so they will gravitate to what they know.

Your instructor will work closely with you to help you communicate effectively and build a relationship with your new dog while working, playing and during down time.

5/18/2023 Chapter 7: The Life of a Guide Dog - Transitions

Most of you have been waiting for many months to get your dogs, and are very eager to meet and get to know them. Your dogs, on the other hand, have been in training for several months, and have bonded very strongly to their instructors. Therefore they will not understand the change that has happened and will look to get to their instructors on the first day, and maybe even after that.

They will eventually come to realize that they belong with you, since they are spending all their time with you and you are feeding them. In order to facilitate the bonding process, you must have the dog with you at all times, except for the bathroom and the shower. Think of the leash as an umbilical cord binding the two of you together. It is very important that the dog initially not be allowed to be loose in your room. These dogs are used to living in a kennel and until they get on a schedule, they must be on leash or at night, in their crate. Once their park schedule becomes regular, then you may begin to transition them to freedom in your rooms.

You have to be patient with the dog. If the dog is attached to its instructor, you just have to remember that it will become that attached to you, in time.

Your dogs have had to make many adjustments in their short lives. They were all born at the Canine Development Center (CDC) in Patterson, New York. They were removed from their mothers at 4-5 weeks of age. At around 8 weeks of age, they were separated from their littermates and sent to live with foster families, who raised them until they were between 18 and 24 months of age. Their foster families taught them basic obedience, house manners, and how to be well behaved in public places. When they were returned to GEB for training, they had to adjust to living in a kennel environment instead of in a home with constant companionship. This was stressful to them - they prefer being with people, because that is how they were raised. Now they are being asked to adjust

once again, and to start considering you as their "people" rather than the instructor. Hopefully this will be the last adjustment they will have to make. It will be stressful to them, and it is your job to make this transition as easy as possible.

Your dogs have had to pass a variety of tests before they got to where they are today. When they were very young puppies, they were given puppy tests. Any puppy that did not show potential as a guide dog was released from the program and placed as a pet. The puppies that were deemed potential guide dogs were placed in foster homes and were evaluated frequently by GEB staff members. They could be released from the program at any time for temperament issues or lack of confidence. Those that made it through the puppy raising program were then returned to GEB for an In-For-Training test, which was designed to test the dogs' confidence and see how quickly they can recover from unexpected occurrences. Dogs that passed this test were put into training with instructors. They were evaluated with instructors working under blindfold by training supervisors a minimum of two times on routes similar to the ones you will be working with your dogs at home, and had to perform well on the final blindfold test to be considered candidates for class.

Chapter 8: Establishing a Feed, Water and ParkSchedule

It is very important that dog guides establish and maintain a consistent feed, water and park schedule. In this way the dog can be monitored as to when it needs to relieve itself. It is generally recommended that a dog receives between four and five scheduled park times a day. In most cases dry kibble is given twice a day and water is offered between three and four times a day. By regulating the food and water the handler will better be able to monitor the dog’s weight and general well being. The advantages of a routine are listed below.

· The food can be measured and fed in equal parts within a 24 hour period· The dog’s weight can be closely monitored· Accidental elimination in the home will be less likely to occur· By parking on leash the handler will be able to determine the status of the dog’s

stools, firm, loose, watery etc.· The dog will remain healthy by allowing it to have consistent park times and

avoid urinary tract infections

The instructors will outline the class feed, water and park schedule which will help to establish a consistent parking routine for the dogs.

Instructors will monitor each individual dog’s parking habits and adjust them as necessary. Some dogs may need to be parked before workouts, have additional park times added or stopped to park after several blocks and or be allowed to park on grass if need be. The main goal is that the handlers get the dogs to be as consistent as possible with their parking routines. By doing this it prevents accidental elimination during

workouts or when working indoors. The students will quickly learn their dog’s habits and be able to monitor and manage their park routines independently of the instructors.

Once home some handlers may opt to feed the dog once a day instead of twice. Most dogs can adjust to this but there are many benefits to the twice a day feeding schedule. By feeding twice a day the dog’s stomach has fewer hours in a day where it will be empty. Certain dogs may begin to throw up bile, a yellow liquid substance that the stomach emits. If this begins to occur go back to the twice a day schedule. Most dogs seem to enjoy and look forward to the two meals a day. A Labrador is always thrilled to start of their day with a meal.

In addition once in the home some handlers will opt. to feed their dog in the morning and immediately take the dog out to park. This can be particularly helpful to those handlers living in apartments where they have to take an elevator down to the outside. Handlers will soon learn their dogs and be able to tell if this system will work for them. It tends to work well if the handler is an early riser, needing to get ready for work. These handlers are generally feeding very early around 5 or 6 and then the dog is immediately taken out to park. In this case the dog has only been holding it for 7-8 hours.

For handlers that do not rise out of bed this early and may be taking their dogs out closer to 7 Am., they should opt. for taking the dog out first and then feeding. It is all about timing and learning your own dog. Keeping in mind that more park times is better then less. If you think about your own needs and if you were restricted as to when you could go to the bathroom, it will help you be empathetic to your dog’s needs.

If you end up cutting back on park times you again could be risking the health of your dog and the possibility of having accidents on route, indoors or inside the home. Chapter 9: Initial workouts with your dog

The initial workouts with your new dog guide are designed to help you become accustomed to working with your dog gradually and to provide instruction on the basics of guide work. The initial routes have several goals:

• Learning to follow the dog and move laterally• Establishing a consistent pace and pull between the dog and handler• Managing proper foot work and body alignment• Developing appropriate voice inflection for commands/cues and praise• Managing the leash while working• Crossing short intersections

It is very common for new handlers to be excited and anxious about working with their dog guide. During the initial workouts the instructor will both coach and maintain the confidence of both the dog and handler.

Initially the instructor will have a support leash attached to the dog’s collar. During the first workout the instructor will be on the dog’s left side and remain very close to the

dog’s head. This provides confidence to the dog and allows the instructor to monitor both the dog and the handler closely. By the second workout the instructor may switch to the right side and behind which is in fact the normal following or coaching position. The instructor gives feed back to the handler from the right side by verbally alerting the handler to changes in the environment. Occasionally the instructor may have to touch the handler’s right shoulder but otherwise has no physical contact with the handler.

Having the dog attached to the instructor with the leash during these initial workouts is a normal part of the transitioning process and the new handler should not feel concerned by this. As the training progresses the dog will begin to transfer its loyalty to the new handler and the trainer will give the new team greater distance and freedom.

The initial workouts are a time for the handler to become familiar with his or her new dog and begin to develop positive working habits.

Chapter 10: Food Reward and Guide work: relationship building, targeting, back chaining & counter conditioning

Before we go into an explanation of how the food reward system works it will be important and useful to address the time when food reward was not utilized. Retrains and trainers can clearly remember the old adage that dogs should never work for food. This was a very ingrained philosophy in the early period of dog guide training and maintained a strong hold for many years to follow. Guide dog handlers and trainers were under the common belief of:

· Dogs should not work for food· Using food reward will teach the dogs to scavenge

In recent years guide dog schools have learned that this in fact is not the case and that food reward can hold a lot of merit. Many schools entered into the use of food reward gradually, initially using it to counter fear based issues. It was used in areas such as escalator work, riding buses and subways or walking over various surface changes.

In the past most all of the distraction work, whether it be ignoring loose dogs or not picking up items off the street, was handled with traditional or corrective techniques. However as the food training progressed, it was found that using food reward as a counter conditioning technique proved to be extremely effective with distraction work.

In addition it was discovered that food could be useful with patterning and maintaining working drive through the methods of back chaining and variable food reward. Ultimately we found that balancing traditional methods with the food reward system enabled the handler to get more out of their dog.

In summary these are the main areas that food reward is utilized in dog guide training.

· Counter conditioning, both for animal and food distraction· Relationship Building· Variable food reward, to build and maintain drive· Patterning, land marking and back chaining techniques· Fear based exposure issues

Now that we have a basic history of food reward we can address each of the areas where it is commonly used and address how it applies to working with a dog guide handler.

Relationship Building: The food is viewed as a primary rein forcer that has great value to the dog and helps to accelerate the process of connecting with the new handler. Food reward helps the dog to not only understand but accept both the verbal and physical praise that it is receiving from its new handler. It is the anticipation of receiving food in the dog’s mind that helps to motivate it.

Variable Food Reward: By alternating or varying when the food reward is given will help to keep your dog motivated, fresh and alert. A variable reward is similar to the slot machine concept at a casino. The player is never sure when he will receive a payout or better yet the jackpot. This keeps his interest and makes him keep trying. A variable food reward works similarly with dogs. In the hope of being rewarded, they will work harder. Variable food reward can be used at curbs, stairs, doors etc. to build and keep drive.

Targeting or back chaining: Food reward is used with hand targeting a desired location, for example door handle, signal button, elevator etc. Through this repetitive exercise the dog by being rewarded at a fixed target will approach the location more quickly and precisely each time. The handler brings the dog to the desired location first and food rewards. In small increments the handler backs up and works to the target location. The food is given each time and the distance is increased until the handler is back at the starting point. Event Markers are used to teach the dog the target. In dog training we use a clicker or a verbal yes as a marker. The clicker is a small box that makes a popping sound. A verbal yes is a consistent word that marks a given behavior. If the dog responds on the first cue, then the marker is given followed by a food reward. When either marker is used, the clicker or verbal yes, food must be given to the dog. Only verbal and or physical praise is given if the handler has to be prompt more then one time. It is important to deliver the food first and then pair the verbal praise with physical touch. This helps the dog associate verbal praise with touching and not with food. It also helps prevent the dog from fixating on the handler’s face and putting on the brakes every

time it hears verbal praise. During class we will be teaching you how to use event markers, including the clicker, and when it is appropriate to use them. They will be important when teaching the dog a new route or target. Whether it is the clicker or the verbal “yes” the marker should be continued until the dog is performing the behavior 100% of the time. Then the marker can be phased out but 100% food reward continued for at least one to three weeks. At that point the handler can begin to incorporate a variable reward system, alternating food reward and praise. Instructors will work with their individual teams to help them understand when and how to implement this system with their new dog. We will be going over this in Chapters 23 and 24.

Counter conditioning in the presence of food and animal distractions: We will go over this in more detail in another lecture and how to use it properly. In summary: in the past negative reinforcement and or punishment was often used as the only means to redirect a dog away from a food or animal distraction. We have since realized that positive reinforcement can be used together with traditional techniques and achieve more lasting results. This is an area where timing and reading of your dog is necessary. It is important to understand how food reward works. In either case of food or animal distraction we still need the dog to show a high level of compliance. Our ideal response is to have the dog ignore and move away from either type of distraction.

Scavenging has long been an issue in guide work. Food reward which is controlled from the handler can be used along with normal correction. This can be a difficult area for a handler to work through independently so initially they will need to work closely with their instructor in order to get the feel and timing correct. Most handlers after time can detect the difference between a deviation from the work by an animal distraction versus food items being picked up off the ground.

In all cases the handler must understand that there is no one method that is full proof and each dog and situation must be handled individually. As mentioned earlier, balancing traditional methods with the food reward system enables the handler to get more out of their dog.

We often discuss rewarding active behaviors but a handler needs to stay aware and take the opportunity to reward passive behaviors as well. For example my dog is lying down and a person comes by with another dog. The dog remains in the down as the passing dog goes by. This can be rewarded. Being quiet in a crate can be rewarded. Ignoring people can be rewarded.

Treat pouches will be issued and filled with Charlee Bears. We will start with the Charlee Bears during the first week. Gradually you will switch to using the dogs kibble and deduct the amount you use from your dog’s daily portion of food. Secure the treat pouch on the right side of your pants and slightly back behind you. Then we will practice reaching for a treat, placing the treat between the index and middle finger and gently depress the thumb over it. The treat will be delivered across and in front of your body and your treat filled hand placed just under the dog’s chin. At that point you may allow the dog to take the treat.

When rewarding a behavior be aware not to pre load your feeding hand. This can cause the dog to look for the treat before the behavior is done. The treat should only be reached for after the behavior has been completed. We will use both low and high value food reward. Charlie Bears are low value food reward. High value food rewards are things like dried salmon or liver, things with a high scent or taste. High value treats can have high calorie content so we will save them for things like distraction. Your instructors will let you know when using high value food is appropriate. We will also review the use of markers and how important it is when teaching the dog a new route or target. Whether it is the clicker or the verbal yes the marker should be continued until the dog is performing the behavior 100% of the time. Then the marker can be phased out but 100% food reward continued for at least one to three weeks. At that point the handler can begin to incorporate a variable reward system, alternating food reward and praise. Instructors will work with their individual teams to help them understand when and how to implement this system with their new dog.

Chapter 11: Counter Conditioning

It is important to realize that distractions are an everyday part of a working dog guide’s life. All dogs will show a level of distractions; the degree of the distraction depends on the individual dog. Each dog’s level of animal or food distraction is best quantified as a range rather than using the terms ‘always’ and ‘never’. Every dog has its range and our goal is to work with each team to provide individualized instruction in the best way to handle these situations.

In the case of an animal distraction where the dog is unable to work past a cat, dog, bird, squirrel etc. the handler will call and or correct the dog back into the heel position. Once the dog is sitting and under control with a relaxed posture the handler can food reward. In other words, it is important that the dog not be fixated or pulling towards the distraction when food is rewarded, otherwise you have rewarded the dog for being distracted. Once the handler is able to food reward a few times the dog should begin to show more interest in the handler rather then the distraction. Collar correction is still used but the food helps to create a more relaxed response with the dog and less frustration and physical activity from the handler. In advanced work the dog can be rewarded for successfully working by a strange dog or other animal.

Another easy way to remember when to food reward after working through a distraction is. Reward correct behaviors not corrected behaviors. If you have to correct for chasing a squirrel then delay the food by working the dog several paces past the distraction. Either reward then or at the closest down curb. In early situations the handler may be instructed to run through an obedience routine and reward the dog for duration of a requested behavior such as sit or down. This way the dog is rewarded for performing a known behavior rather then just receiving a correction for being distracted.

Counter Conditioning is a technique that allows the new handler to take an active role in establishing and maintaining positive control over their dog in the presence of distractions. By practicing this technique in the presence of distractions the handler will be better able to deal with future distractions when they occur. By the time handlers have advanced into the second and third week of training they have a good idea of how their dog reacts and responds in the presence of distractions. Since food reward is incorporated at the beginning of class, handlers will have this resource available and can begin using counter conditioning very early in their training. It will help them get off to a positive start and develop good handling habits that will have a lasting effect. There are several methods that can be effective when using counter conditioning. Keep in mind what our goal is and what we want the dog to ultimately do. Move forward in small steps and throughout the process it is important that handlers are observant of how their dogs are responding.

GOAL: To have the dog guide ignore the animal or food distraction and remain in contact with the handler rather then engage with the distraction. Animal Distraction:

1. Initially gain control by having the dog sit, and use the dog’s name to achieve focus. Reward with food when the dog is checking back in with you. Physical correction can be used along with food to establish control and will be needed initially when the distraction first appears. Pay attention to your positioning when delivering the food. Be sure that the dog is waiting for the food and not curling in front of you.

2. Once you have learned the technique and gained control you will need to get the dogs up and moving by heeling them around. This helps to keep the dog concentrating and working harder to pay attention to the handler. The handler can stop and reward the dog once it passes by the other animal with no interest. The dog can be food rewarded while sitting or while still in motion.

3. To help achieve a stronger response and less looking away the handler can withhold the food for a few seconds. The handler does this by having the food in a closed hand. The dog will be shown that there is food but will not be allowed to instantly take it. The handler should let the dog lick at their hand for a few seconds and keep as much contact as possible. This usually can be achieved for no more then a few seconds. Release the food before the dog looks away again. The idea is that the dog will maintain longer contact with its handler and therefore achieve a stronger overall response. By withholding the food for a few seconds this will also help to create a more lasting response with each repetition.

4. The next step is to reward the dog for ignoring a distraction when it is working in harness. All of the above techniques can be used in the same way. In training you will have ample opportunities to practice this when loading to/from vans and working to/from meals and of course at all other times when working

your dogs. The ultimate goal is to have the dog work by an animal distraction without breaking their normal working gait or focus. The food reward can be offered after the dog has successfully passed the distraction by 6-10 paces. The dog can be rewarded while moving or while sitting.

Food Refusal

In recent years we have incorporated counter conditioning methods for food refusal and have had improved success. In this instance the dog is channeled to refocus on the handler and achieve a food reward for the refocusing and avoiding the item on the ground. The dogs showed less of a diversion response and more of an understanding.Through the use of the marker word “Yes” we can continue and expand on this theory. We will incorporate the same method of having the dog refocus on the handler initially with the sit. The cue “Leave it” will be added after the dog has developed the behavior of focusing on the handler and not the food. Once the behavior is established the cue “Leave it” can be paired with the new behavior of avoiding contact with the item on the ground.

It is important for a dog functioning as a guide to avoid picking up objects in its mouth.Dogs that develop scavenging behavior become very problematic for the user and often can end their career as a guide if not rectified. Knowing the fact that the Labrador retriever is the predominant dog in guide work comes with the inherent problem of being orally fixated and food oriented. Labradors working as guides can become quite proficient and successful at picking up items on the ground and ingesting them. This is not only annoying but it poses a health risk to the dog.

This behavior can be both a bad habit as well as a stress reliever for many dogs. It takes an adept handler to read when their dog is scavenging versus safe guiding. The use of the Halti has helped to some degree but it is not a cure for this issue. Certain individual dogs have a greater desire to scavenge then others. In any event we want to try to consistently address this area while we are training our dogs to guide. In the past negative reinforcement was always used with varying results. More often then not it did not carry over to new handlers on a consistent basis. Many dogs became crafty at developing lightening speed to locate, pick up and ingest an item before a correction could be implemented.

Similar to the animal distraction work we will extend the food refusal to working past and successfully avoiding the items on the ground. Initially the handler should do it in steps, reworking back to step one if needed and ultimately working to a desired destination. Listed below is a basic step by step process.

1. Use what the dog already knows. Use “Yes” and reward once the dog is sitting and refocusing back on the handler. Only use the cue “Sit” at this point until the behavior is established.

2. Continue with the “Sit” and refocusing, now adding in the cue “Leave it” when the dog begins to offer the behavior. Use “Yes” and reward for any looking away from the item as you cue “Leave it”

3. Try to slowly heel past the item on the ground, cueing the dog to “Leave it”. Just as with the dog distraction reward the dog for avoiding once you heel several paces past the distraction. If the dog is showing a positive response you don’t need to have them sit. If the dog attempts to pick up the item then back track to step one or two.

4. Once the dog offers the correct behavior, use the harness to begin to work and then add in a destination to work towards, such as a door, stairs, curb, etc.

The main focus will be to add in the cue “Leave it” as the dog develops the behavior. We don’t want to give the dog a negative reinforcement for avoiding a cue or command that it may not understand. Stay aware that this is a constant process and not fixed in one or two sessions. These mini sessions will occur over and over again during the dog’s training.

The hope is that the dog will continue to offer this type of behavior and avoid the items on the ground by making the choice to avoid them rather then waiting for a strong negative reinforcement to occur.If the handler has their dog check in with them more often through the use of variable food reward the ground work will stay intact more easily.

The important thing to remember, when using counter conditioning, is that you must carry food with you at all times and use it as a normal part of your every day training. If the food is used sporadically (not to be confused with variably) in the beginning it will not be as effective. In other words just like praise and correction if the dog does not experience it consistently it will hold little to no meaning. Stay aware of this and make sure that the emphasis on the food remains important and not a secondary thought. Rewarding mediocre responses will only achieve you mediocre responses. Rewarding strong responses will help you achieve strong responses.

Chapter 12: Handling the Guide Dog Around the Building

Your new dog needs help readjusting to living in a home environment, it has been months since they have been able to roam free in a house. They will need to explore your room and dormitory on leash and under control as you reintroduce to them the various rules for canines living indoors with humans. Because you are living with a service dog that has high expectations placed on how they need to behave in public, the rules are essential for you and your dogs to master.

Until your dog demonstrates an understanding of appropriate indoor behavior it is important that they are kept on leash, tie down or crated. This time period will vary from dog to dog. Your instructor will work with you to let you know when it is

appropriate to allow your dogs freedom in your rooms while here on campus and in your homes following graduation.

When moving about the dormatory keep your dogs on leash and under control, this is an opportunity for you and your dog to practice good behavior in public and indoor spaces. Dogs explore their environment with their mouths and noses so pay attention to where their heads are when you have them on leash.

Heeling your dog while moving through public spaces at Guiding Eyes

When you first arrived for training certain rules concerning the manner of moving about the building were explained. Now that you have dogs, the dormitory is more crowded, and observing these rules helps to assure that neither students nor dogs will be hurt by being bumped into or stepped on.

To review, here are the rules for moving about the building:

· Stay to the right side of hallways and stairways.

· Announce your presence entering a room or hallway.

· Keep your dog close and out of the way of others.

· Do not work your dogs in harness indoors or without an instructor present until Instructors communicate to you that it is time to do so.

· Anytime you are stationary have your dog sit or lie down, a standing dog will be more likely to wander and get into mischief.

· When seated dogs should be kept lying down and out of the way of other students. When there is sufficient space, the dog should be under the chair, otherwise, the dog should be lying in close proximity to you.

· Dogs in class should only be allowed to play with one another if there is an instructor present.

· Focus on your own dogs and do not make attempts to interact with your classmates’ dogs.

· Use the “side” or pivot method when going through any closed door with the hinges on the dog side of the team.

· Until you begin working your dogs in the building, when you arrive at a change in elevation while heeling you should ask them to sit and then reward before they step up or down to reinforce their guide work training. This includes stairs, curbs and stepping up into vehicles.

From the beginning of your relationship with your new guide dog it is essential for you to maintain a certain level of control over them. They should be walking nicely beside you with slack leashes. If they are pulling on leash it should be addressed immediately otherwise you may create a habit of sniffing, scavenging or distraction.

We will have you start giving leash cues to get back into the heel position and leash corrections if they fail to respond to the "Heel" command. Remember that a leash correction is a snap in the direction you want the dog's head to go: if the dog is pulling ahead of you, the snap should be straight back; if the dog is pulling to one side, the snap should be towards your body, etc. A leash correction consists of a snap followed by an immediate release of tension on the leash once the dog has responded. It is important to remember to praise the dog after a correction.

When you are heeling the dog, it is your responsibility to know where you are going. The dog should not be corrected for failing to stop for a step; you must know the step is coming up and be prepared to have the dog stop and sit. To do this, you can switch the leash to your right hand before you give the "Sit" command so your left hand can reach down and feel whether the dog has responded to the command or not.

If necessary you may use your cane while heeling your dog; however you should get to know the building by moving to trailing the wall as soon as possible. If you choose to use your cane in conjuction with heeling your dog, be aware of times when you might be aproaching another dog and avoid using in areas of the building where you might touch and startle another dog with the cane. This can be accomplished by communicating with classmates as you aproach seating or common areas and inquiring where they and their dogs are located.

Navigating doors with your dog

Doorways: You must use caution when navigating doors with your dogs. Doors of all types will be utilized by the dog guide team during the course of their normal day. Doors can be set up in a variety of ways. In training and throughout the dog's working life the dog begins to recognize the shape and configuration of doors. Glass doors allow the dog to see to the outside and are useful to them in identifying exits. There are several methods in which a team can handle doors. They involve working or passing through on leash. Doors may be hinged on the right or left side. The handler should always position themselves between the door and the dog thus allowing the dog to pass through on the open or free side of the door, away from the hinges. This allows the dog to have the most room for negotiating. The handler should never attempt to pass the dog between themselves and the hinged side. This is dangerous to the dog and could result in an injury, particularly getting the tail caught. Dogs that get pinched in doors can easily develop a fear of working through doors and it will be some time before it will willingly approach any door again.

When the door handle is located on the dog’s side of the team and the hinges are located on the handler’s side, the handler can simply open the door and walk through with the dog. These doors are also called right hinged doors because the hinges are on the right side of the door.

When the door handle is located on the handler side and the hinges are located on the dog’s side; dogs should be moved to the opposite side of the handler. Opening the door without moving the dog to the other side can cause foot injuries and fear of passing through doors. These doors are also called left hinged doors because the hinges are on the left side of the door.In either case, the handler needs to make sure the dog is clear of the swinging door at all times.

Left Hinged DoorsThere are two methods for navigating (left hinged) doors where the handles are located on the handler side:

Method #1- SideTo use the side method, approach the door and praise your dog. Next pass the leash from left hand to right hand behind your back, the dog is given the cue "Side,” at the same time light collar pulses can be given to communicate to the dog that you would like for them to move behind and to the other side of your body. Next say “lets go” and open and step through the door with your dog on the right side, once clear of the door allow the dog out in front of you and give the “heel” command. The sequence is as follows. "Side", "Let's Go", "Heel". "Side" positions the dog, "Let’s Go" gets the dog moving through the door and "Heel" returns the dog to the working position. For dogs that are not fluidly initiating movement behind the handler, It can be helpful if upon arrival at the left hinged door if you step in front of the dog, open the door slightly and hold the open door in place with your left foot. This does two things it blocks the dog from forward movement on the left side and gives them an environmental cue or pathway to travel, around your back and through the open door. Your body remains between the dog and the door at all times.

Method #2- PivotingPivoting is a technique similar to the recall exercise in obedience. Once the left hinged door is located and the dog is praised for finding the door, command “stay” then simply turn and face the dog as you open the door simultaniously protecting your dog by keeping your body between the dog and the moving door. Your right shoulder and back will be against the door as it swings open. The dog will pass through the door on leash, in front of you into the open and safe area on the other side of the door. Once through reposition the dog using the “heel” comand and continue with work. This pivoting or rolling method works well when the handler is carrying something in the right hand.

Both methods have value and the dogs understand each one. This is a clear example where the dog is reading the handlers body language. Simply by moving the leash to the

right hand tells the dog that the "Side" method is occurring. By facing the dog and turning your right shoulder towards the door the dog will interpret a pivot. These simple methods are designed to keep both dog and handler safe. Students in class training will be shown both methods

Right hinged doorsIf the door is hinged on the right you may work the dog through. It is important to be sure the door is open as wide as possible to allow both members of the team to pass through. Be sure to hold the door open long enough for the dog to completely pass through including the tail to avoid any accident or injury. When locating doors with the dog the handler will have to be understanding of what the dog perceives as the actual door. It is unrealistic to think that the dog will target the handle or knob of each door accurately every time. Banks of doors, especially glass doors are framed out in metal. The dog will bring you up to what they perceive the door to be. With a bank of doors the dog will gravitate towards the metal framing. It is your responsibility to help the dog by searching for the actual handle or knob. Using food rewards at the handles and practicing targeting the handles can help improve your dog’s accuracy with locating the handles as they approach doors. Through repetition and reward your dog will learn to recognize specific locations at the door and become more accurate with locating the handle. Tonight

• You can use the bed provided so that your dog has something comfortable to sleep on. You should check the bed occasionally to make sure it is not being chewed. If your dog chews the bed, you will have to take it away. You may try the bed again in a few days when the dog has adjusted to life with you in the dorm room.

• Dogs dream when they're sleeping. They may whimper, twitch their paws, or even growl in their sleep.

• Most dogs sleep fairly well through the night. However if your dog starts whining during the night, you can tell it "Quiet" in a low, firm voice. If the whining is persistent, the dog may have to park. You can take the dog outside and give it a few minutes to relieve itself. If it doesn't go, then take it back inside, put it back in the crate, and tell it "Down" and "Quiet".

• When we wake you up in the morning at 6:00 a.m., your dogs will wake up too. It is important that you get them outside quickly to give them a chance to park. You will park the dog, then feed and water it, then park it again.

• Please keep your dog in the crate until the 6 AM park time. If you wake up prior to 6 AM please be aware that noises carry easily through the dormitory, close doors gently and keep voices and other noises to a low volume.

Nylabones You will all receive a nylabone for your dog to have and this is yours to keep. Your dog

may have the bone whenever you choose. We recommend picking the bone up at night as it can be noisy when dogs chew and can become a crutch if always given when your dog is on tie down or crated.

Chairs: There are two types of chairs in the building; stationary and moving. Stationary chairs are chairs positioned against walls. When we refer to moving chairs we refer to chairs at places like the dining table where you have to move them out from under the table in order to sit down and then move or slide them back under in order to eat.

With stationary chairs, dogs can be placed under them using the “close” command. You sit down in the chair first, tap your inner thigh saying “close” and the dog should come in between your legs, turning so they face outward and then go into a sit. After the dog is in sitting position, ask them to go into a down. Then you place your hands in front of their chest and slide them back under the chair. If the dog’s chest is out of reach reposition the dog so that it can be reached. If they are wearing a harness, check to make certain the handle does not get caught as they slide back under the chair. Be careful not to grab the groinal area to slide them back. This can be uncomfortable for the dog,Being under the chair places them out of harm’s way, and decreases the chances of them getting stepped on by others. Booths should be handled in the same way if possible. When you go to exit a stationary chair, the dog should always exit first; using a “let’s go” with the leash cuing them out from under the chair. After they are safely out and away from the chair, then you may rise. Your weight holds the chair in position. Do not rise out of the chair if your dog is under it. A dog can easily lift a chair up on their backs and this could cause injury or frightnen the dog, making it difficult for you to ever get them back under a chair.

Dogs should not be positioned under moving chairs. For these chairs, they will be placed on the side of the chair in a down position. First position yourself behind the chair and then give the command “side”. Once the dog is positioned on your right side, move the chair out from under the table and sit down moving in from the right side of the chair. Slide the chair back under and then bring the dog around the front of your knees so the dog is once more on your left side but facing out away from the table. Put the dog into a sit and then into a down. Facing outwards allows the dog to see wait staff coming towards the table and protects their tails. If there is a wall behind you, the dog will want to turn around and face the other way. This is fine as the wall protects the dog.

Once again, when you get ready to sit on or vacate a chair, regardless of whether it is stationary or moving, always be certain you sit down first and get up last. Your weight keeps the chair from moving and potentially harming the dog. Use a “let’s go” command to get the dog out and away from either type of chair. Only then should you get up. Please remember at tables to push in your chair when leaving.

StairsWhen working a dog guide up and down stairs it can feel quite different then when working on level ground. Dog guides are conditioned in training to target nearby staircases. After locating a staircase either up or down the handler should check by

probing with the left foot. A step up for upstairs, a step down for downstairs. The handler can locate the handrail in conjunction with locating the step edge. In navigating stairs you have the choice of holding the harness handle and asking the dog to work up or down the stairs with a “forward” command, or holding the leash and asking your dog to heel on the stairs. In either case, it is acceptable to hold the railing if you so desire.

When working upstairs extending your left arm in front of you can create a problem if the dog gets too far ahead and crests the top of the stairs too early. It is important for you to work the dog at a comfortable pace and to let up on the pressure in the chest strap. Holding back with pressure in the chest strap on the stairs can cause the dog to pull more firmly causing them to move out of position in front.

When working the downstairs it is not uncommon for the handler to feel like the dog is pulling more then usual and in a downward motion. The sensation of downward pull can feel quite different then the dog’s forward movement when on level ground. Some handlers become nervous, fearing that they will fall. The handler may put too much backwards pressure into the harness, contributing to the problem. Let up on the pressure in the harness as they descend the downstairs, this will allow the dog to remain relaxed and exit the staircase without a jarring increase in pull and pace as the dog comes to the bottom of the staircase.

Chapter 13: Leaving Your Dog Alone

Instructors will instruct you when to begin practicing leaving your dogs alone in your rooms for short periods of time. Initially you can put them on tie down and step just outside your door into the hall, so you can hear if they make any noise. If they do, return to them and tell them "Quiet" firmly. Do not make a big scene out of leaving - you do not even need to say anything to the dog. Be matter-of-fact about it, and the dog will not see any need for concern. Over the next couple of days, repeat these exercises. Up until now, the dog has been with you all the time, but it is now comfortable enough with you that it can begin having some time alone. The working guide dog should be left alone from time to time so that they do not become reliant on constant human companionship to maintain emotional stability . You will be asked to leave your dogs in your rooms for some meal times. This is done so that your dogs learn that it is normal and acceptable to be left alone. If any behavioral issues develop once you start praciting leaving your dog alone such as barking, whining or destruction of the dog bed seek instructor assistance immediately.

When you need to confine them away from you either in the crate or on tie down make sure all non dog friendly items are out of reach, this includes leather articles such as your leash, harness and shoes; all favorite things to chew on for a young active dog. Chewing can occur out of boredom or anxiety and often a dog will attempt to chew on items when you are out of the room. When placing your dog on tie down only use heavy furnature such as bed legs, sofa legs or by having the tie down connected directly to a wall through an eye bolt. Connecting a tie down to chairs, tables, drawers could be hazardous to your dog, as an excited dog can move these types of furniture very easily,

and often with disastrous results. Don’t ever use a leash to tie down your dog unattended as they can easily free themselves by chewing through the leather.

Chapter 14: Initial Harness Work

When working in harness, guide dogs have been trained to stop or "check" both potential hazards and orientation points for the handler. In order to maintain and reinforce the dog's training you should initially stop and have the dog "Sit', at these points while you are helling your dog. You should also indicate to the dog that these are important points where stopping is essential. This is best done done by tapping the appropriate spot with either hand or foot, and reinforcing the dog frequently at these points. Some common places where this should occur are:

• At the top of stairs going down, tap the edge of the top step with your foot and tap the right hand railing with your hand.

• At the bottom of stairs going up, tap the edge of the bottom step with your foot and tap the right hand railing with your hand.

• Before going over any curb, either up or down, tap the edge with the foot this is important for both raised or high curbs as well as blended curbs or ramps.

• Before going through any open door, tap the sill or tread with your foot;

• Before opening any closed door, tap the door knob or push bar with your right hand;

• Always follow these indications with lavish rienforcement including both food reward and praise!

Harnessing the Guide Dog

Harnessing incorrectly may result in your dog becoming fearful or avoiding being harnessed. It will take some time to get to the point where your dog is comfortable being harnessed by you and for you to become comfortable with the technique. When you are first learning to harness your guide please do so in the presence of an instructor who can individually instruct you in the proper method. Your instructor will let you know when you may begin harnessing your dogs in your room without supervision. The proper technique for harnessing the dog is as follows:

• The dog is given the "Sit" command, after which you free up both of your hands by either placing the leash on the floor and standing on it with one foot, or passing the loop of the leash over your left arm.

• Next, fold the belly strap over the back strap and hold both straps together in your right hand.

• Gently locates underside of your dog's muzzle with your left hand.• Tip the harness downward so that the handle is pointing up towards the ceiling and

gently guide the opening of the harness over the dogs muzzel and head. During this step it will be necessary to remove your left hand from the dogs muzzel as you move the harness in place.

• Lay the harness gently on the dog's back and encourage your dog to stand with gentle pressure under their belly with your left hand.

• Buckle the bellystrap by passing the belly strap under the dog from your right hand to your left hand. Dropping the belly strap at this point can cause the heavy metal buckle to swing and hit your dogs leg and should be avoided.

• Once buckled, draw the leash out from the harness under the dog's neck so the leash and collar are free of the harness.

PLEASE DO NOT PICK UP THE HARNESS HANDLE UNLESS YOUR INSTRUCTOR HAS SPECIFICALLY STATED THAT IT IS TIME TO DO SO. INITIALLY YOU WILL NOT USE YOUR DOG TO GUIDE UNLESS UNDER DIRECT INSTRUCTOR SUPERVISSION.

Chapter 15: Feeding, Watering, Parking

*Put your dog on tie down, making sure that the tie down is attached to the dead ring of the collar. Also, remember to put your leash away on the hook in your closet.

*We will give you two bowls. The large bowl is for food, the small bowl is for water. We will also give you a one cup measuring cup.

*Everyone will start by feeding two level cups of food and two level cups of water. We will adjust amounts later if necessary. The instructors will bring to each room a food bin filled with food which you can keep in your closet.

*Tell your dog sit and stay. Do not bend down over your dog. An excited dog can jump up & hit the bowl or your chin. Set the bowl on the floor in FRONT of your dog; you can then slide the bowl closer to them as you tell them break.

*While your dog is eating take the small bowl and get water. Fill the bowl up with two cups of water. Let the dog drink, don't worry if they do not drink, they will drink what they need.

*If your dog leaves food uneaten, do not throw it away in your room trash. There is a trash can for uneaten food in the grooming room. The instructors will show you where it is.

*We will knock on your park door to get you for park time. Please do not come out until we come for you.

*When you have time you may rinse the bowls and clean them with the towel and sponge provided under your night stand.

Chapter 16: INSTRUCTORS' COMMANDS

Just as the dog must learn commands in order to know what is expected, you must learn a few simple commands so that the Instructor can give urgent messages in as few words as possible while working on the street.

Guidework commands The Instructor will frequently give commands that are the same as those given to the dog. When the you hear the Instructor giving a guidework command, it means that you should immediately give the dog the same command. You should mimic the Instructor's voice tone and inflection while giving the command. Tone and inflection are important as they convey meaning to the dog.

"Follow Your Dog" When the Instructor gives this command it means several things; The dog is attempting to proceed in the proper direction, to give proper clearance, and you may be showing doubt and hesitating to maintain proper position next to your dog. You should attempt to correct your position by walking willingly with the dog while paying close attention to the harness handle to feel for latteral or left and right movement and changes in speed.

"Wait" When an Instructor gives the "Wait" command you should give the "Wait" command to your dog and stop walking. It usually means that the Instructor needs to give some further explanation or instruction, to wait for a class mate to catch up, or some other practical reason. Compared to;

"STOP!" When the Instructor gives the "STOP!" command it means that a potentially dangerous error or situation is about to occur. The only correct response to this command is for you to stop whatever you are doing and await further explanation or instruction. If you first asks why, prior to stopping it may be to late!

Praise The Instructor may praise your dog out loud. When you hear the Instructor praise your dog, "Good girl, Juno", you should immediately join in and praise your dog in the same

manner. If the stops to ask, "What did my dog just do?", it is already too late for your praise to be meaningful to your dog. Explanations will follow after praise has been given to your dog.

HOW TO TALK TO YOUR DOG

When working with your dog, it is a good idea to periodically praise the dog, particularly when you feel it make a movement to clear you around an obstacle and when it stops at a curb, step, or barrier. Praise given at such times should be given in a warm, friendly voice: "What a good boy." The praise does not need to be constant. If you chatter endlessly to your dog while working, even if it is all praise, your praise will come to be meaningless. If the dog gets praised no matter what it is doing, it will not have to work for it. Wait for specific actions that the dog does, then praise those. When the dog is lying quietly at your feet, it is fine to reach down every once in a while to pet the dog and tell it that it is being good. Remember that the tone of your voice will affect the way your dog behaves. If your praise is bubbly, the dog will get excited. If your praise is calm, the dog will remain calm too.

When giving a command, your voice should be pleasant but firm. Shouting commands at your dog doesn't make them hear you any better. They can hear you when you speak in a normal conversational volume.

A command should never be given in a tone of voice that makes you sound like you are asking the dog. If you say, "Juno, Forward?" in a tentative voice, your dog may look up at you and not do anything. In the dog's mind, you are saying, "Juno, is it OK to go forward?" and the dog is thinking, "I don't know, is it?" Be confident and let that confidence show in your voice “Juno Forward.”

Remember that while voice inflection is important in conveying a message to your dog, dogs are also vissual and physical in their communication. Hand signals & body language also communicate things. If you are giving the command “right”, but your hand & body language say “left”, the dog will go left. Keep this in mind as you go through the process of learning to communicate with your dog.

Chapter 17: Moving Laterally with your Dog Maintaining Proper Following Position

One of the first skills that a new dog guide handler will learn is how to move laterally with their dog while maintaining a proper following position. This is one of the most important skills and is essential for keeping the team working smoothly together through all working situations. Poor following position and awkward lateral movements can create a wide range of problems when working with a dog guide.

The handler should be prepared to move with the dog as it makes its way down the sidewalk. As the dog works he will maintain what is called a straight line. However, the straight line may involve lateral movements around stationary and moving obstacles. In this manner the handler will need to side step as the dog moves back and forth around them. Side stepping may be a foreign concept for those used to traveling with a cane. To accomplish side stepping, the upper body should remain stationary and follow the movement of the dog’s head and chest. The handler’s legs and feet will move sideways with the dog as the dog moves around obstacles. This technique is the basis for maintaining alignment when working a dog guide. However, for handlers who have never experienced this, it can initially be awkward. For those who have ever waltzed, the concept is a similar one of gliding with your partner while both facing the same direction.

Many retrains will notice immediately that each dog has its own work style and walks with a slightly different gait however, it may not be apparent to first time handlers. As a result retrains will need to become accustomed to the way their new dog makes lateral moves to negotiate obstacles.

For Instructors: In the instructor’s portion of this section, possible scenarios and solutions are reviewed.

Chapter 18: Left and Right Stationary Turns

The ability to make both left and right stationary turns is extremely important when working with your dog guide. When the turns are handled properly the dog is able to give the handler sufficient clearance on either side. Stationary turns involve changing direction with your dog and picking up a new line of travel. It allows the handler to change cardinal directions in a smooth efficient manner while avoiding obstacles.

There are a number of cues which the dog will rely on to execute a successful turn. The handler must initiate all of the cues together in order to make the turn. After repetition the cues will flow more naturally but in the early stages the handler will have to stay aware of the following.

• Foot work• Body alignment• Hand signal• Voice signal (command/cue)• Handle position

There are some differences between right and left turns. With right turns the handler is asking the dog to turn in front of their body and picking up a new line of travel. With left turns the handler is asking the dog to back up and slightly behind the handler before picking up the new line of travel. With both turns, it is important that the handler bring the left foot away from the curb before moving.

For right turns• Bring the left foot away from the curb• Keep the handle free of tension as you execute the turn• Signal the dog with a right hand cue across the handler’s body away from the dog• Signal the dog with a verbal cue/command to move right• Begin to align your body to the right• Allow the dog to cross in front of the handler’s body• Put pressure back in the handle only after the dog resumes the new line of travel

For left turns:• Bring the left foot away from the curb• Apply slight tension or harness check to signal the dog to back up• Signal the dog with a left hand cue across the handler’s body and towards the dog• Signal the dog with a verbal cue/command to move left• Be prepared to back up to allow room to negotiate obstacles • After backing up be prepared to pick up the new line of travel • Apply normal tension in the handle once the new line of travel has begun

For Instructors: In the instructor’s portion of this section, possible scenarios and solutions are reviewed

Chapter 19: Curb approaches

Every village, town or city has varied configurations at intersections or corners. Although there are many common types of intersections the corners may or may not be consistent. This is why it is extremely important for dog guide handlers to orient themselves to a given route. When in a new location you should seek assistance as to what the configuration is as well as what the traffic flows are. Some key points to determine in a new area are:

· Whether there are definite curbs or ramps · How large is the corner · Does it severely round in one direction or the other· What obstacles are present at the corner· Whether there is a crossing signal and its location· Whether the crossing is offset

When this information is not available to you it can make travel judgments more challenging and offer many choices to the dog on the approach. Most seasoned dogs will begin to seek out the straightest line possible in order to take the least line of resistance. However newer dog guide teams may struggle initially and could easily lose their orientation on the approach. Let’s go over some curb approaches scenarios and solutions:

Scenarios:

Rounding a cornerIt is common in the early stages of working as a new team to round a corner on the approach to the down curb. There are a number of variables that can contribute to this problem and listed below are three typical scenarios. Handlers should be aware of the following reasons why rounding a corner may occur.

1. You may be changing your direction on the approach2. The corner may be severely rounded to the left or right causing you to drift or follow what appears to be the straight line.3. The dog may have needed more signaling from you on the approach4. The traffic flow may be limited or difficult to locate due to rain or wind causing you to misalign on the approach5. The dog may have begun to lose focus on the approach and wander off the straight line

Instruction/Solutions

1. Check your alignment with your parallel traffic flow as you make your down curb approach.2. Signal the dog with “To the Curb” which will help both the dog and you to get back on track and resume the approach to the down curb.3. In the event that the approach is lost and you have completely changed direction and are already working the new line of travel; stop, recheck your alignment and direction and work back to the original intended curb. Have the dog sit and give verbal praise. Then heel back 10 paces and re-work the approach. If a second re-work is desired back up an additional 10 paces.4. In the early stages of class training the instructor remains in close contact with you as you approach the down curb. In later stages after your team has demonstrated that you can approach down curbs successfully the instructor will walk much further behind. If at any point your team loses orientation with the approach the instructor will engage in contact again.5. Use food reward in situations where it may be useful, see below.

Up curb approaches

Although many of the same elements apply when executing approaches to the up curbs there are some key differences. Up curb approaches incorporate entering and maintaining a straight line in the street crossing. The dog needs to have a good sight line to what they perceive as the up curb. If your team wanders off the straight line while making the crossing you could miss the approach to the up curb. So essentially we have two important components. As a team, you and the dog must maintain a straight line in the crossing and target the nearest up curb. Most veered street crossing occur within the first three steps of entering the street. If the crossing is salvable and the dog has positive initiative to target the up curb then often it can be successful. However if you’ve wandered too far off of the straight line then making a recovery will be difficult.

Instruction/Solutions

1. Be observant in your alignment at the corner and at the time of entering into the street. Where is the parallel and perpendicular traffic flow? Where is the direction of your up curb?2. If you begin to go off course side step no more than two to three paces with your dog, in case the dog is moving around an obstacle such as a pedestrian, stroller or a car, and then verbally signal the dog “To the Curb”3. If you are moving towards parallel traffic on your left, then repeat #2 above and if necessary, a right hand leash cue may also be appropriate. Be careful not to keep the leash tight. A cue is a slight reflex with the leash followed by it returning to a relaxed position. Keeping the leash in your hand will cause you to “steer” the dog and you will end up going off course.4. Use food reward in situations where it may be useful, see below.

Since food reward is a part of our training method it can easily be used to help create more drive and reinforcement at both down and up curbs. However keep in mind that we don’t want to reward mediocre responses so the handler will have to be observant as to what should be rewarded. For example if the poor approach appears to be stemming from loss of drive then the food can help to increase it. If the poor approach was due to the dog being distracted you may want to wait and reward at a different curb where you can receive a greater response from the dog. Think of it in this way, use food to increase drive or motivation. Use food to reinforce strong responses. If you reward a lot of weak responses then you will get more weak responses.

Chapter 20: Street Crossings and Traffic Safety

Understanding your street crossing is a very important component of a successful crossing: Parallel traffic is traffic that flows parallel to your left or right shoulder. Perpendicular traffic is traffic that flows on your facing street; the street you are about to cross. A “Plus” intersection is an intersection shaped like a cross or a plus sign. Traffic on both intersecting streets can flow through the intersection. A “T” intersection is an intersection shaped like a “T”. Traffic at the top of the “T” can flow through. Traffic coming from the bottom of the “T” must choose to turn right or left. It cannot flow through.

When your dog takes you to a curb and stops, you will find the curb with your left foot and then remain in position with your left foot slightly forward. Then you will listen to the traffic, to get a sense of the way it flows. It is especially important to listen to your traffic when you are at one of the many rounded corners in White Plains, so you can determine your position relative to the street you want to cross. You do not want to move around while standing at the corner; if you do that, you risk losing your direction.

Once you have judged your position, you will then wait for a lull in traffic for a stop sign controlled intersection or for a new cycle if it is a light- controlled intersection. To do this for a light-controlled intersection, you will wait for the perpendicular traffic to cross in front of you, which will be followed by a stream of parallel traffic to your left or right. When the parallel starts, it is usually safe to cross. If you arrive at the down curb and the parallel traffic is already flowing, it is best to wait for a fresh cycle, rather than risk getting caught in the middle of the crossing when the light changes. It is your job to read the traffic accurately.

When a fresh cycle starts, you will tell the dog "Juno, forward," and step into the street with your dog. Turn your shoulders just slightly away from the parallel traffic, to lessen the risk of veering into the intersection.

When you step off the down curb you want to step off with your right foot. Your first step is usually the heaviest and if you step off with your left you could push your dog to the left in the crossing and possibly even step on the dog. After you step into the street, praise your dog then tell them “to the curb”. To the curb is the only command given in the street, and it is used in every crossing.

When crossing a street, you do not want to push the handle forward, rush the dog, or get ahead of it because you are anxious to get out of the street. Getting ahead of the dog in the street will prevent the dog from safely getting you to an up curb or safely protect you from trafic. The dog will get you across the street at a safe speed.

When a guide dog is approached by a moving vehicle so closely that he must take evasive action, it is referred to as a traffic check. The dog may react in a number of ways.

He may:

Come to a complete stop and wait for the vehicle to passCome to a complete stop and back up quicklyTurn slightly in front of the handlerSpeed up in pace if the vehicle comes from behind

In review traffic checks can occur while waiting at the down curb and while stopped at the up curb, as well as during a crossing.When a traffic check occurs, be prepared to stop with the dog and back up quickly if necessary. You must stay behind your dog at all times to keep within the buffer zone. If you step out of the buffer zone the likely hood of making contact with the vehicle is greater.

Guide dog handlers must be mindful not to put the dog in dangerous situations. For example: the handler consistently misreads the cycle and thus forces the dog out into heavy traffic. The dog will soon become traffic shy and refuse to cross the street all together. When traffic checks do occur the handler should allow the dog to exit the street as quickly as possible. This means don’t be overly concerned if your dog runs the up curb. Avoid rushing when entering the street as well since the dog may be assessing the close moving vehicles. Know and understand the intersections that you use frequently; traffic controlled or not, length of light cycle, number of lanes and so on.

Should a traffic check occur, you must try to remain calm, be supportive to the dog, and give a quick word of praise followed by the “to the curb” command.A traffic check is as unsettling to the dog as to the handler, and the dog should be forgiven minor guide work errors immediately after the traffic check, such as hurrying over an upcurb. Once out of the street, give the dog praise.

Chapter 21: Suggested or Moving Turns

By using suggested turns the dog guide handler will be able to make changes in their cardinal direction without stopping in place. Suggested turns are very useful in traveling down hallways and picking up intersecting pathways. There are several elements that come into play with suggested turns in order for them to be successful. Listed below is what needs to occur.

· The handler must have an adequate sense of time and distance in a given space· The handler will need to command/cue the dog in advance to the turn, at least

several paces before the actual turning location· If commanding/cueing a right suggested turn the handler must slow down with the

dog and allow the dog to cross in front of the handler.· The dog will be given one pre command/cue before it is expected to make the

turn, on the second command the dog should be changing its direction· The handler must be willing to follow the dog into the turn· With left suggested turns the handler must follow the dog as it changes direction

to the left· In areas where the turns are not ninety degrees the handler may need to keep and

extended hand signal out for the dog to see. This will help the dog pick up the new intended line of travel. This may be helpful in situations where the turns are more on a diagonal.

Once the dog guide is patterned to a given route which involves suggested turns the dog will quickly identify and execute the turns. The handler should remain aware of this and still be willing to command/cue the dog appropriately. This will help to keep the dog’s work consistent and avoid the dog taking over.

It is also important for the handler to be patient with the dog. When in new areas the dog will need very clear instruction from the handler. The handler cannot expect the dog to

execute suggested turns accurately or swiftly if the dog is not prepared. If the dog is commanded/cued abruptly the dog will begin to make arching turns which have both poor form and function.

It is very important when working suggested turns that the handler praise as the dog is changing direction and picking up the new line of travel. The verbal and physical cues should be presented to the dog methodically like the turn signal of a car; Left... Left…. Left; and not be stacked or repeated too quickly. In the dog’s mind we want him to have the message to take the first available opening on the left or right side.

Suggested turns do not always lead to hallways and can be utilized on the side walk in known areas. For example; if a situation requires that a dog guide handler needs to cross mid block such as at the top of a “T” intersection. Initially the dog can be shown the change or direction by executing the turn from a standstill. As the dog patterns to the location it can be asked to make the turn without stopping. Remember that the dog should still be commanded/cued on the approach.

Chapter 22: Grooming Your Dog

Grooming your dog guide is a way to keep your dog healthy and in good physical appearance. Grooming is also important because it helps to maintain the rapport between the handler and dog. Furthermore it will help the handler recognize what their dog feels like in its entirety. Having physical contact with your dog will also is important since the handler will be able to detect any change such as identifying a lump or scab. By including grooming in the dog’s regime the dog will remain presentable to accompany the handler in any public situation without fear that the dog will be observed by the public as being dirty, smelly and unkempt.

The predominant breed in all of guide work is the Labrador retriever. Guiding Eyes also has a limited number of German shepherd dogs. All of these breeds are considered to have a double coat. This means that the coat is made up of two types of hair. The first is the guard hairs or outer protecting hairs. These hairs are generally longer and coarser and help to protect the dog against the elements. The layer of hair below the guard hairs is the soft undercoat. This insulates the dog and provides protection both from the cold and heat.

Double coated dogs such as labs generally shed their undercoats twice a year and the guard hairs once a year. Shedding can occur from several weeks and up to two months. Shedding is regulated by hormonal changes in the dog’s body that are linked to day length. Other factors can contribute to shedding and increase or cause the dog to shed at odd or different times then expected. These factors can be the nutrition that the dog is receiving, surgery, and whelping and or temperature fluctuations in the home environment. Double coated dogs will shed a large amount of hair twice a year. When a dog sheds its undercoat it starts at the haunches and works its way forward. You will

notice tufts of hair protruding out. It may look and feel like cotton that needs harvesting. By grooming frequently during these periods you will help to accelerate the growth of the new hairs.

Although most Labs do not need to be groomed every day it will be important to make it part of your normal routine. Otherwise weeks may go by before you remember the last time you took out the brush or comb. Most dogs will maintain a healthy appearance if they are brushed three times a week. If the coat is groomed frequently the likelihood of needing a bath will be less. By bathing frequently you run the risk of drying out the coat. A bath given each season should be more then enough for a working dog. However if the dog has made contact with something foul the dog can be simply washed off in the tub with warm water. Dogs have natural oils in their skin and coat which are dictated by the level of nutrition and grooming they receive. Over bathing will interrupt these oils. If you believe that your dog is shedding more often then it should consult your Veterinarian for advice.

The students will be issued a soft slicker brush and toothed comb for grooming their dogs. It is important that the student be shown how to use both the brush and comb properly. Putting too much downward pressure on the slicker brush can cause skin burns on the dog’s skin. The slicker brush should be angled near the skin but not against it. The brush works well for loosening up the coat and helps to decipher whether or not the dog is shedding. If the brush keeps coming up very full every time chances are that the dog is shedding. The wide part of the comb can be used to pull the hair out of the brush. The comb can be very useful in getting the dense undercoat up. However the handler will have to be careful that they are not pulling or tearing at the coat. The comb can be especially helpful with thick coated dogs such as the German Shepherd. Occasionally we will have a dog in training that is averse to having either tool used on them. In these cases we will issue a zoom groom to help the dog acclimate to grooming. The zoom groom is a soft rubber brush that feels more like a massage to the dog. Many dogs that are fine with grooming may be sensitive about having their tails groomed. Be patient with your dog and don’t force the issue. Go slowly and groom a small part of the tail initially. The handler can incorporate food reward to help keep the dog relaxed and positive about the experience.

Rakes and other stripping tools are not suggested to use. Although they can be useful in getting large amounts of undercoats up if used improperly they can strip or rip the guard hairs as well. There is always the danger that one of these tools will make contact with a sensitive area of the dog, genitals, flank or the eyes and nose. It will be important that the new handlers are observed while grooming to be sure that they are being gentle with the dogs and staying away from the sensitive areas. Several students can be observed at once in the grooming room. The students will need to be shown how to empty the brush with the comb. The hair should be disposed of in a plastic bag or garbage can. Otherwise the hair tends to blow around and make a mess.

Guiding Eyes does sell replacement brushes and combs at cost. You can bathe your dog yourself or bring it to a professional groomer. If you opt to use a groomer be sure that

they return the correct leash and collar to you. This is important because it has the Guiding Eyes and AVID contact information. The leash that you have been issued cannot be found in pet stores. Double check to see that the slip collar is put on properly. Although groomers have experience with dogs they may not be an actual dog trainer. It is not unusual for them to put the slip collar on backwards. Take off the collar and put it back on yourself the way you were shown at Guiding Eyes.

(Some or part of the above information that were made reference to are from) www.canismajor.com and www.petgroomer.com

Chapter 23: Clicker use in guide work

We introduced the clicker in Chapter 10: Food Reward and Guide Work.

To review: In dog training we use a clicker or a verbal yes as a marker. The clicker is a small box that makes a popping sound. A verbal yes is a consistent word that marks a given behavior. If the dog responds on the first cue, then the marker is given followed by a food reward. When either marker is used, the clicker or verbal yes, food must be given to the dog. Only verbal and or physical praise is given if the handler has to prompt more than one time. It is important to deliver the food first and then pair the verbal praise with physical touch. This helps the dog associate verbal praise with touching and not with food. It also helps prevent the dog from fixating on the handler’s face and putting on the brakes every time it hears verbal praise.

During class we will be teaching you how to use event markers, including the clicker, and when it is appropriate to use them. They will be important when teaching the dog a new route or target. Whether it is the clicker or the verbal “yes” the marker should be continued until the dog is performing the behavior 100% of the time. Then the marker can be phased out but 100% food reward continued for at least one to three weeks. At that point the handler can begin to incorporate a variable reward system, alternating food reward and praise. Instructors will work with their individual teams to help them understand when and how to implement this system with their new dog.

Clicker training can be very helpful in guide work, particularly with targeting and animal distraction. As there is no negativity associated with the clicker it is very useful for our target training. Not only will the dogs begin to locate these areas faster they will be very happy about it. In training, the clicker is used to teach stopping at stairs and curbs. You can get a nice relaxed approach and a positive stop. With the softer dogs you can avoid any type of negative reaction from the handler or environment.

The clicker can be used to help dissipate negative behaviors and cement positive behaviors both in guide work and with general control, manners etc.

Such behaviors, like keep away when off leash, scavenging and jumping can be alleviated through the use of the clicker. Often we have a softer dog that does show dog distraction. Instead of getting a fear reaction or negative handler reaction from being corrected firmly the clicker can helpful. Conditioning a dog to walk or work by a dog distraction and then click and reward can achieve a very nice relaxed response.

When rewarding a behavior be aware not to pre load your feeding hand. This can cause the dog to look for the treat before the behavior is done. The treat should only be reached for after the behavior has been completed. We will use both low and high value food reward. Charlie Bears are low value food reward. High value food rewards are things like dried salmon or liver, things with a high scent or taste. High value treats can have high calorie content so we will save them for things like distraction. Your instructors will let you know when using high value food is appropriate.

The next chapter will go over how to clicker train in detail.

Chapter 24: How to use the clicker with a Hand Target and Touch Cue

Steps #1-3 are designed to make sure that your dog understands touch.If you know your dog already understands touch being at step #4.

Step #1Present the closed fist of your right hand to the dog. When the dog reaches out and makes contact with your fist, click and then food reward. Do this 3-4 times.

Step #2Next present the closed fist. As the dog makes contact with your fist say TOUCH, click and then food reward. Do this 3-4 times.

Step #3Present the closed fist to the dog but this time say TOUCH as if you were asking or commanding the dog. Once the dog makes contact, click and food reward. Do this 3-4 times.

Step #4Present the closed fist in various locations near your body, to the right, to the left, down near the floor, up near your waist. We want the dog to generalize the TOUCH cue.

Step #5Now take your target hand and place the closed fist on the object that you want to target, chair, door, counter, railing, mailbox etc. Ask for TOUCH at the location. Do this 3-4 times, click and then food reward. Keep in mind your fist should be placed where your dog can touch it without jumping.

Step #6Adding in the new cue: We now overlap the new cue to the old one by saying the new cue just before the old one. For example Chair, touch, chair, touch, chair, touch, chair, chair, chair. So you eventually just end up saying the new cue. Click and then food reward each time.

Step #7Once the dog is responding to the new cue it is time to move the dog away slightly from the target by creating some pressure in the leash. The dog will then move towards the target location. Once at the target location be sure to get the nose bop confirmation before you click and food reward the dog. Be consistent and don’t click until you get the nose bop.

Step #8Begin to back up only a few paces at a time and work the dog in harness to the target location. Add in the target phrasing of “To the” So for the chair it would be “To the Chair” This method of backing up in small increments is referred to as back chaining since you are working at the point of origin first and then increasing the distance. Once the dog stops at the target location place your fist on the exact location, wait for the nose bop and then click and food reward. Realize that some dogs may try various behaviors as they figure out exactly what it is you are targeting. You may observe dogs sitting, going into a down, backing up, touching you with their paw, putting their paws up on a chair or in some cases actually getting up on the chair. Don’t be concerned as this is normal behavior. More importantly avoid clicking for those behaviors and only click the nose bop. The other behaviors will gradually extinguish if you remain consistent.

Things to remember:

· If you hit the clicker even by mistake you must food reward your dog, they trust that the paycheck is coming

· Sometimes a higher value reward such as freeze dried liver will help to accelerate the process

· Avoid having the dog sit or stay as this will diminish drive, you can however use the command of WAIT

· Avoid at all cost leash correcting the dog. This again will diminish drive and confuse the dog some, causing the dog to go into a default behavior such as sit or down

· Once the new cue is very strong, where the dog responds 100% of the time and with drive and consistency wean off the clicker. Do continue to food reward 100% of the time for best results.

· Always hold the clicker in your leash hand, and click with that hand· The target cue of the closed fist will be with the right hand· If the dog seems to be struggling then go back a few steps and work closer to the

object

· Good places to practice for starters are chairs, door handles and stair railings. However you can target almost anything that you want or need the dog to show you

· Target from different directions and angles. If you are targeting a chair practice having the dog get to the chair from in front or behind the chair.

Chapter 25 : Reinforcers, Corrections & Reworking Errors

Before we go into corrections let’s look at reinforcers in general.

Positive reinforcers try to set the dog up for success by rewarding increments of behavior, therefore gradually forming a sequence chain or pattern.  The trick of course in guide work is where the balance lies. Food is considered a primary reinforcer to a dog, so it's very high on its list. Primary reinforcers when coupled with secondary reinforcers like verbal and physical praise can help build a strong response.  These secondary reinforcers can then become primary ones as well.  This is of great help to the dog and handler during the transition period of one to six months.  It helps the dog accept your praise and understand it as being sincere.  The food is consistent and clear to the dog and does not change from person to person.  Initially when new behaviors are shaped the food is used 100 percent.  Once behaviors are reliable then a variable schedule can begin, mixing up physical, verbal and food reward. Some handlers drop food reward when they leave the school which creates confusion and discomfort for their dog.  Remember it is not bribing or taking the place of your physical touch or praise, it actually helps to accelerate and bring it to a maximum level.  Once you have been working with a dog for awhile and you as a team are very comfortable, praise and correction is understood from the dog.  At that point you may not need food as frequently but it still can help keep your dog fresh.  Dogs that are trained through operant conditioning are not afraid to problem solve.  If a dog only gets negative reinforcers his repertoire will be somewhat limited.  This doesn’t mean to use only positive reinforcers. Use the two together to strike a fair and reasonable balance.  The most important thing to ask is “Am I being fair and consistent?”

Remember that event markers let the dog know it did well whether you use your voice or the clicker.  The sound of the click or a verbal “yes” paired with food and then followed by supportive praise strengthens the behavior.  Food reward is used for hand targeting, helping with fear based issues and sometimes with high levels of distraction. We use food in obedience to strengthen the right behaviors.When they respond to the first command they receive food. After the food reward is given physical praise may then be given simultaneously with the word “good boy or good girl.” The word “Good” is linked with petting and verbal praise; not with food. This is done so as to prevent the fixation on the handler's face with an expectation of receiving food every time they hear the word “good”.  Having to give the command more than once only gets praise. 

Non event markers, like not now, not today, are just neutral phrases to let the dog know to make another choice; they are not a correction or praise.  It can be quite effective when searching for a certain door, or just letting the dog know you don't need that particular escalator. 

Negative reinforcers are ones that stop when a desired behavior is achieved.  If pressure is applied in the collar for the dog to go forward and once he starts moving it’s released, then that would be considered a negative reinforcer. It goes away when the response occurs, and praise is added in the form of verbal or physical or a combination of both.Generally one should use less negative reinforcement for actual guide work errors.  Correcting too firmly for guide work errors will diminish the dog's drive and you will have to spend some time building the dog back up again.  Physical collar correction should be saved for non negotiable areas.  For example; eating pizza off the floor or chasing after an animal is a non negotiable and unwanted behavior. 

Corrections should change the dog's behavior not their demeanor.  It should give the dog the answer, not that, but this, so you get a dog that is trying versus a dog that shuts down or gives up.  Balance is so important!  Employees that get even small amounts of praise from their boss will perform at a much higher rate and furthermore will want to continue to perform well.  Corrections for actual guide work errors should remain at the level that reaches the dog. Some dogs require only a light correction in order to be reached; for some a verbal no is enough. Discourage what you don't want, reinforce heavily for what you do want. Correct when needed, not out of frustration and don't correct more then once for a given infraction. Why; because multiple corrections create reactivity in the dog as well as confusion. Avoid raising your voice with commands as it weakens them and you want your dog to be responsive, not reactive. Use food and praise to create, build, and strengthen behaviors.  You want the dogs to try harder, to work harder but know that a reward is coming. If you reward good performance, you will get good work. If you reward mediocre performance, you will get mediocre work. In the end, being fair and consistent will not only strengthen the bond between you and your dog, but create a good working team.

Corrections in depth:If you have given a command to your dog and your dog hasn't responded to the command a correction will follow. A correction is language that the dog has been conditioned to and understands and handlers need to use this language when working with a dog. This will insure that your dogs response remains consistent. Remember that corrections may be used in areas that are considered non negotiable. For example chasing after animals and eating food off the floor. In these cases a correction is necessary because we will never ask the dog to chase after animals or eat food off of the floor. However the handler will always need the dog to get them to a curb, stair or door. Handlers should avoid firmer corrections for stepping slightly over a down curb or

lightly brushing an obstacle. Correcting too firmly in these areas will diminish drive in the dog.

A good leash correction has several essential characteristics. It must be given with some slack in the leash initially, so you are able to snap and release. The snap is what makes up a correction; pulling on the leash will accomplish nothing except to make the dog pull harder against you. A correction given properly does not harm the dog in any way, nor does it cause pain to the dog. The amount of force given varies from dog to dog, and even from situation to situation with a single dog. A good rule of thumb is that the correction should be strong enough to create the desired effect the first time it is given, but not so strong that it harms or intimidates the dog. A correction should not be considered a punishment, but an action to turn an incorrect response into a correct one. We will instruct you on the particular type of correction that will be most effective for your particular dog.

Specific corrections for the various non-harness commands are listed below:• Heel: correction is a snap on the leash toward your left side• Down: correction is a snap straight down toward the ground• Sit: correction is a snap straight up from the top of the dog's neck• Stay: this correction is more complex. If the dog sits up, stands up, or lies down

after being told to stay in one position, but does not move from the spot he was told to stay, you should return to the dog and return it to its original position using a verbal command and a leash correction. If the dog breaks position and starts to move away from the spot it was told to stay, you will have to return it to the original place and position

There are also leash corrections for harness commands. They are as follows:• Forward: correction is a short, light tug forward, given with the right hand.

You should not give this correction unless advised to by your instructor, and should be very careful about giving it at home, because the dog may be refusing Forward for a good reason.

• Right: correction is a snap to the right, given with the right hand• Hup-up: correction is a snap in the direction appropriate for the

situation, given with the right hand

If, while a dog is working, it becomes so distracted that it fails to respond to one or two right-handed corrections and stops working to try to get to the distraction, you should drop the handle and administer a left-handed leash correction. We will demonstrate other corrections to you on an individual basis.A harness check is a mild correction given with the harness handle. The correction is given by using your left hand to check or snap back with the handle.

There are several important things to remember when you give a correction:

*Never give a leash correction out of anger or frustration. A leash correction is just a way to show the dog that what it did was incorrect, and to remind it what the correct thing to do is. *Never shout or raise your voice when giving a correction. Shouting a command at your dog will not make it obey any faster. *Never use any form of correction other than those taught here at GEB. It is NEVER acceptable to hit, kick, or scream at your dog. *Always remember to praise when the dog resumes appropriate behavior after receiving a correction. *Always remember that people are watching you when you work with your dog. They get very upset when they see you doing what they may perceive as abuse. If they see you follow a correction with praise, they are less inclined to think that you were being abusive to your dog (and less inclined to call GEB and complain). *Concentrate on using more wrist action rather than swinging your arm. This keeps the correction quick and low to the body.

Guide work errors are a normal part of the guide work process. It is important to understand that errors can occur for a variety of reasons and that many of them tend to be minor in nature. Generally a newer team will experience more errors then an established team, particularly during the acclimation period of six months to a year. Guide work errors are usually a combination of both dog and handler errors as well as environmental influences.

Environments that are complex and have a considerable amount of traffic, pedestrians and loose animals can create problematic areas for guide dog handlers. Errors are more likely to occur in new areas where neither the dog nor person is familiar or patterned to. Furthermore both members of the team are living, breathing, thinking individuals which can contribute to the success of a given workout or progression of workouts.When guide work errors occur it is important for the handler to recognize them, quickly identify what has obstructed their travel and work to remedy it. Generally errors such as running curbs are errors that should be reworked.

Chapter 26: Guests

For those of you who are having guests visit, your guests will most likely want to meet your dog. This is fine; however, there are a few guidelines to follow. You should have your dog sitting to greet your guest; this will help keep it under control. Your guest may say hello to the dog and pet it briefly (if that's OK with you), but should not play with the dog, use the dog's name, or get overly demonstrative. You will not have your dog in harness; if your guest asks why, explain that the dog is off duty.

Cha pter 27: Long Line Play

Long line play is a great way to give your dog an energy and stress outlet. It is also another way to help build and solidify your relationship with your dog. It should always be done in an enclosed area or on a long line. This is to ensure that your dog is kept safe and that they will return with their toy and not play keep away.

Every dog has a different level of retrieving drive. In playing with your dog you will have to find out what level of play drive they have. Some dogs will be very happy to continually retrieve a toy that is tossed for them while other dogs might be happier just chewing on their bone. Please remember that this playtime is for your dog so it is important to figure out what they like to do. If you do have a dog that enjoys retrieving it is important to remember that this is a solo sport between you and your dog. There should be no group play with other dogs and toys, as this can create competitive and possessive behavior.

Before we start with we will have you park your dog. Then we will want you to practice the “come” command. We will give you a 30 foot long line that is made out of nylon. One end will have a loop handle, and the other end will have a metal clip. Once you get the long line you will first clip it onto the dead ring of your dog’s collar while the leash is still attached. Once the long line is connected you can then take your leash off and put it somewhere safe such as behind you on the seat. We will then have you tell your dog “break” and give them a chance to move around and explore the room. After a few seconds you will call your dog back saying their name followed by “come” in a nice happy voice. If your dog responds right away and comes back to you then you can say “yes” and give a food reward. If your dog does not respond, you will use the long line and reel them back in like a fish on a line. Once you get your dog back to you, you will give them plenty of praise.After completing a few repetitions of “come”, we will give you a box with several toys in it- a Kong, a Nylabone, and a few other toys. You can then reach in and pick one out to see if your dog likes it. You can roll the toy across the floor to your dog, making sure to keep it low to the ground. The dogs do not know a specific command for getting a toy, but most have learned something along the lines of “get it” in their puppy homes. Most of the dogs will go for the toy without you saying anything. When they get the toy it is a good idea to give them 30 seconds or so to run around with it and be silly before asking them to return. When they have had the chance to run around with the toy for a little bit you will then call them back to you using their name followed by “come” in a nice happy voice. When your dog returns to you, you can tell them “out’ to get them to release the toy. If they have returned nicely and dropped the toy for you, you can say “yes” and give a food reward. It is okay to throw the toys across the room, but please keep in mind to keep them low so they do not hit the ceiling. The room is a very large open space and toys are bound to be lost in the room. If this happens and you are unable to find them please don’t worry. Just let your instructors know and we will come and find them. After your dog is finished playing, you should go outside and give them a chance to park, even if it is not a scheduled park time. Many of the dogs will have been stimulated by all

the running around and will need to eliminate afterwards. If your dog does have an accident while playing, please stop playing and immediately find an instructor who will come and clean the area.From this point forward, you may use the toy box and long line to give your dog a chance to play after the day’s work is done. Please let the instructor’s know so they can set up Alumni Hall for you. If multiple people would like to play a sign-up sheet can be used. The grooming room can also be used as a backup area if needed. There is a smaller toy box on the shelf and a gate that can close off the room as well.

Chapter 28: How to Recognize When Your Dog GuideIs Relieving (Parking)

There are several reason why it is important for you to know when your dog is relieving, to pick up after them, and to have them relieving on leash. Picking up after your dog is necessary because it shows the public that you are a good responsible guide dog user and that will not let your dog relieve wherever and whenever. Remember you represent the guide dog movement so having good public perception is important. This is what helps you to have and maintain the rights and access that you do. Lets face it everyone does #2. There may be times when you are not near your usual park area and your dog needs to relieve or its just time to do the deed. If you are seen picking up after your dog the general public or property owner may be less likely to hassle you. In those regards we do encourage you to relieve your dog in an area that is convenient for you but respectful of others. For example don’t put your dog off the curb right in front of the valet at a restaurant or business establishment. It can be done several yards down the black or maybe even around the corner. Same thing at your place of employment or other areas you frequent often. You will probably select an area that is out of the way were you are physically safe from cars and such but also not in anyone’s way. Maybe out a side or rear door that places you close to a trash can or dumpster but not in front of the main entrance were people, patrons, or customers are constantly walking by.

Dogs can not tell us when they are sick. They also do not tend to display symptoms the same way as people do. When dogs have dietary indiscretion (big words for diarrhea) they sometimes don’t have any other symptoms. Being visually impaired it is important that we pick up as this is a way to assist us in monitoring our dogs health. If they have loose, watery, or excessive diarrhea we can fast them, change to a bland diet, or if need be make a vet appointment. Another reason to relieve on leash is that your dogs have been conditioned to relieve on leash since they were puppies. If it is allowed to always relieve OFF leash you will condition the dog away from leash relieving which may be problematic when needing to park your dog somewhere besides your home. This could pose a significant issue for when you travel and are needing to leash park; possibly even leading to accidents. If the handler has a fenced in back yard they should continue to leash relieve their dog. Once the dog has parked then they can let the dog off leash. If the dog is allowed to relieve off leash the handler will have a difficult time knowing if

and when the dog has eliminated. Also your dog and you may be playing in an area that is now littered with #2’s. It’s unsanitary for the dog and it never fails that either you or the dog will step in it and track it inside. Nobody wants this kind of surprise after a fun play session.

After picking up after your dog you should be sure to dispose of the plastic bag properly. Do not leave the bag on the side of the street or yard. Locate the nearest garbage can or dumpster. In the home area the handler can use a small plastic or metal garbage can to dispose of the bags until they can dump all the contents on garbage day. However it is best that the can be outdoors, on a back porch, in a garage or the driveway. If the handler lives in an apt. then they will have to dispose of the bag each time they take the dog out. Most urban environments have garbage cans placed sporadically along the sidewalk. The handler should learn where the closest available can is. This is also a great target to teach your dog as the bins are sometimes far away. The dog may need to work you over to the receptacle or can. Making it a good opportunity for some clicker and targeting work.

Substrates for parking or in laymen’s terms; pavement, grass, gravel, mulchy areas. Etc, etc. If a handler will utilize grass for parking once home they can begin to condition their dog to parking on grass only. Most dogs would prefer to relieve on grass so it is generally not a problem switching from pavement to grass. However if the handler needs to use cement or pavement full time they should continue to use it. It can be very difficult to switch back to pavement or cement once the dog has been allowed to relieve on grass. Sometimes a gravel or sandy area can be used as a transitional park area for the dog.

Most often relieving issues are not hard to prevent but once they are established they can be difficult to rectify. It is the handler’s responsibility to make sure that their dog is on a relief schedule and is ACTUALLY relieving on that schedule in an established park area. Having a schedule and relieving on that schedule are two very different things.

Some common reason for elimination issues are:*not giving the dog enough opportunities through out the day to relieve* rushing and not giving the dog enough time during relief time to actually relieve *constantly changing the dogs relief area so that there is no consistency*moving or returning home from class and not establishing a new area. Just assuming that the dog will go because they were on a schedule previously.

If your dog is having significant defecating issues on route you should evaluate your part and see if you may be contributing to the problem in any way and then if necessary call the instructors line for further assistance. If your dog is urinating on route again evaluate your role in the situation as well as their water schedule, any possibilities for free water in the home or at work. Toilets are always the first question an instructor will ask you about. Sometimes guest baths are left open or are forgotten about when your dog earns freedom

in the house. If this does not solve the problem then a trip to the vet to run a urine sample to rule out any medical issues is the next step before contacting an instructor.

OK now on to the business of picking up the business!!!

As the handler and dog become more comfortable with each other the handler will begin to be able to recognize when their dog is relieving. There are several ways in which this can occur.

· Listening to the dog· Recognizing body language· Touching the dog’s back

You will begin to observe that your dog behaves in a specific way or have a special “dance” just before or during relieving. Most importantly everyone’s dance is different. No matter what their dance is like let’s all be happy that how ever minor or exuberant the dance is your dog is doing something to indicate that they are relieving. There are a variety of ways that the handler will become aware of relieving. For urination or what is commonly referred to as #1 the male dogs tend to urinate standing more erect or by lifting a leg so it is possible that the handler may be able to hear the urine hitting the ground. In female dogs this is not usually possible and the handler will need to use touch to determine what their dog is doing. Not to worry we will describe this in much more fun detail later on in the lecture.

In class training the instructors know your dog’s habits very well and will help you learn them as well. Every dog is different and some tolerate being touched earlier then others. In cases where the dog is still establishing a consistent park schedule the handler will wait to begin touching. NO ONE likes being rushed in the bathroom not you nor I; dogs can be the same way. Retrains it is important to remember that even though you are expert poop picker uppers this is a new relationship and the intimate act of stepping onto your dog’s relief space takes trust. SO be mindful to give your dog adequate time to be comfortable getting all up in their business while they do their business. Students will begin to touch their dogs while parking during the second week of training. The instructors will alert each student as to when it is the best time to start this. The first and foremost issue is that the dog is consistently leash relieving for the student first and has been doing so for a full week.

Many dogs will exhibit very specific behaviors prior to relieving since they have come accustomed to relieving on leash since puppy program. The most common ones are sniffing, turning about in a circle at the end of the leash, gently pacing back and forth, or making large circles around. Some dogs may even strain at the end of the leash in order to locate what they perceive is the best location to relieve themselves. You should try to remain in one area. With the long leash the dogs have plenty of room to roam a bit and

find the best area. If you allow them to walk around too much out side of that leashed area it can actually be counter productive as the dog can often get distracted by sights and smells. But they also tend to want to just keep moving in search of the perfect spot. This can create a finicky parker.

Dogs will have a tendency to check out items on the ground as they are preparing to relieve themselves. It can be difficult to determine if the dog is naturally sniffing or attempting to pick items up. Handlers will begin to recognize the difference. If you notice the dog crunching on an item then command leave it and give a light leash cue to redirect the dog. Administering harsh corrections in the park area can be counter productive. If you cam into my bathroom and yelled at me it is almost a certain guarantee that I will not be able to go any time soon or at all. The park area is a place were they truly get to be a dog. They are permitted to sniff freely and do their business. If your dog is distracted or picking things up a leash cue is usually more then sufficient to get them back on the task at hand.

When urinating or eliminating (#1) male dogs will extend their bodies and stand very stiff with a straight back. Female dogs will drop down and their backs will feel like a slide or a ski slop, higher at the top and lower towards the hind quarters or tail.

When defecating or eliminating (#2) both male and female dogs tend to do their specific dance. When the dance has ended and you think your dog may be defecating. You can approach. You can feel the dogs back by gradually following or trailing the leash back towards the dog. BE very mindful that most dogs like to defecate facing away from the handler leaning into the leash so the first end that you come into contact with is usually the end providing the long awaited present. It may be wise to trail your leash but side step slightly so as not to step into your dog or more importantly get a squishy surprise underfoot. Upon locating your dog their back will be arched and feel like a hump when the dog is defecating. It will be important that you not be abrupt with the touching or the dog may stop relieving. Once you feel the hump or arch of the back you want to trail your hand down the dogs back just to above the base of the tail. From there you want to move your foot to just under your elbow of the hand you are using. If your hand is above the base of the tail and under the tail is your dogs bum and your foot is under your elbow. Then in theory you can point a foot in the direction of the dog’s hind quarters and your #2 will be about a foot in front of your foot. Once you have located the dog and you know that it is defecating you can stand up and stop touching your dog but remember to not move your pointed foot or you may be searching for your #2 for a very long time. When a dog is finished relieving it will move away from the location. Some dogs rush away quickly so it is important that you have steady footing and a good hold on the leash. The handler will then need to search and locate the #2. Some find it easier to call their dog to a heel and place them in a sit so that they have control as they bend over and search for the #2. Noting like having your dog pull you on leash while you’re bent over and inadvertently kneeling or falling in the dreaded #2.

OK now on to the search and retrieve part of picking up. A plastic pick up bag will be placed over you hand like a mitten. The handler will do a side to side motion to locate

the stool. It is important to always start from your foot and search out ward in a back and forth or arc like motion. If you can not locate the #2 then come back and start again making your search a bit wider. Always search out and not in when you search in you can tend to pull the back off of your hand and it never fails that when the bag finally comes off you then find the poop with your bare hand. If you are positive that the #2 may be farther away and you have cleared the area with some initial searches then you may take a small half step forward. This is very much like traversing a mine field make sure you have cleared the area before moving. Most dogs will defecate in one pile however there may be dogs that will do more then one pile or occasionally you have the rogue nugget that rolls slightly away from the main pile. This is why it is important for the handler to use a sweeping motion. Or once the main pile has been located do a circular motion around the main area to search for any that may have gotten away. Once the stool is located the handler will pick up the #2 with the bagged hand. Let me say it one more time you are to pick up the #2 with the bagged hand. Some people scoop others locate nuggets and smoosh them together into one pile in their hand. It is important that once you have all the pieces that you turn your hand over so it is facing the sky before you stand up. If you stand up and the #2 is in your hand but still facing the ground you run the possibility of it falling out and then you may not find it again or it lands on your shoe. One you are standing you are going to invert the back. Essentially turning the bag inside out trapping the #2 inside to be thrown away. I recommend that when doing this you pull the bag inside out from the top of the wrist or for arm as the palm side of the bag was closest to the ground while searching and may have fecal matter on it and no one wants to have the dreaded #2 hand. You can then knot the bag and dispose bag and dispose of it.

Now you are all experts in #1 & #2 good luck and remember; never leave home without your pick up bags!

Chapter 29: Working in Tandem with a Second Dog Guide Team(Doubles)

During class training there will be times when one team is working in tandem with another team. This is often referred to as working in doubles. There are several reasons why this occurs.

· Students can give each other feedback and work through situations together· When incorporating destination work the teams can stay out and work for a longer

duration of time· It is useful for teams that will be working with other dog guide teams at home

such as spouses or friends

It is important to understand that working in doubles will occur sporadically. Teams will work both alone and with other classmates. There may be individual teams that perform better while working alone and therefore may not work in a double. There are a few simple rules that the teams must adhere to facilitate the tandem experience to work

smoothly. By following these guide lines the students can work independently of the instructors in many cases.

· The team which arrives at the down curb second will lead in the crossing first· The lead person should announce when they have arrived at the down curb and

once out of the street on the other side· After the first team enters the street the second team should count one one

thousand, two one thousand and then command their dog. This will space the teams out in the crossing and prevent them from walking side by side

· Both teams should listen and assess their traffic, if the second team is not comfortable with entering the street they can wait until the next cycle and alert their partner that they are doing so

· The teams should communicate every so often on the side walk by calling out to the other teammate.

· Teams should be consistent and respectful of not passing the other team therefore giving equal time in the lead and rear.

· If a team has stopped to re-work an error or is working through an animal distraction the other team member should stop and wait for them to resume working.

· If you hear your instructor shout stop assume that it was directed at you and wait for further instruction or direction

Students who utilize tandem travel in their home area should adhere to these same rules. This will help to keep their dog consistent and safe in its work.

Chapter 30: Praise & Reaction Time

When you are correcting your dog for something, you must be ready to react quickly. In order for a correction to be effective to the dog, it must be given within no more than a couple seconds. You will not always react quickly enough for the correction to be effective in the dog's mind; therefore, sometimes the dog is not going to understand why it is being corrected. Sometimes you will correct the dog because you think it is doing something wrong. If you were uncertain about giving a correction, build the dog back up with the same level or higher amount of praise. If the handler is consistent, the dog will be accepting of an occasional correction that was not needed. This is another reason why praise is so important.

Think about the way in which praise is being delivered to the dog. If you use the same exact phrasing all the time for praise this can create a problem. One of two things will most likely occur. The dog will develop a slow or low level response to praise or in the case of food reward link the exact phrasing to receiving a food reward every time. We want the praise and food reward to hold value. By varying your praise wording it will help with keeping the dog working and responding properly. For example, Good Boy, That’s it, who’s my buddy, Way to go etc.

Think about how you use inflection with your voice. By changing the wording you have to concentrate more on what you are saying to the dog and how it is being delivered.

Reward good response! If you reward weak or mediocre responses expect weak or mediocre work. If you reward good responses expect good work.

Chapter 31: STRESS IN THE GUIDE DOG

Working dogs are always under some level of stress. They may show this stress in a variety of behaviors that are not normal for the dog, including growling at other dogs that it perceives as being in its space; chewing, biting, and scratching at itself, sniffing, and barking at things that it perceives as being strange. If your dog is chewing itself or licking its paws, you can say, "Leave it". Sometimes if you reach down and physically remove the dog's head from the spot it is licking, that will be enough to make the dog stop licking. Do not give leash corrections for these types of things, because they will add to the dog's stress and make the behaviors more likely to be repeated, not less. Verbal commands in a firm, matter-of-fact voice are most effective in these situations. Consistent handling, clear expectations, praise and play time are important factors in alleviating stress and maintaining a happy healthy dog.

Chapter 32: STORE WORK

Undoubtedly, you will visit various stores in your daily travels. Whether it be your local grocery store, a Walmart type store or small mom and pop store, all stores present very similar issues that must be dealt with; location, entrance/exit, aisles, obstacles, check-out lanes, shopping carts, crowds, distractions etc. The decision to take your dog to any particular store depends on your knowledge of the store’s environment and whether or not your dog will be useful to you there. Many guide dog users often do their shopping with a sighted family member, friend or someone from the store’s staff. Depending on the area and the amount of items needed, some people find that using a taxi service and their cane in the store is more practical (keep up your cane skills!) It’s a very individual decision. Some stores are simply too small and tight inside for a dog to work. Like any other destination, the more knowledge you have of the location means you can more confidently work your dog and get the best from him. Obviously, stores you visit frequently are probably well known to you but when visiting a new location, you will need to know where it’s located, the route you plan to use and how you will access the entrance. The targeting techniques you learn here at Guiding Eyes will be most useful as you teach your dog how to approach the entrance. Remember to break it down into small segments with clear targets your dog can find if it’s not a simple approach.

Once inside, move away from the door and have your dog sit for a few moments so he can take in the new environment before you begin working. Many people find that going right to the customer service counter (if there is one) and getting the assistance they need

for shopping is easier than trying to do it on their own. In this case, you may choose to use a cart. Have your helper pull the cart while you hold on to the handle while heeling your dog. Give the dog some leash so he can maneuver away from the cart as you make left turns (don’t run over his paws!). In a narrow passage, whether you are heeling or working your dog, you may need to position the leash behind your left hip to encourage the dog to tuck in behind you as you enter the passage. If you are working the dog, obviously, you’ll need to drop the harness in order to do this. If it’s simply not passable, your dog may attempt to turn around in order to find another way.

For small trips, a backpack is very useful so that you can have your hands free as you work your dog back home. Keeping your hands as free as possible is always a good idea when using a dog. Dogs are smart and will wait until you have your hands full to do something naughty! In grocery stores, dogs may react to a moving cart as they would a vehicle so be alert for sudden stops as your dog attempts to keep you safe.

Once you have your items, it’s time to check out. If you’re working your dog alone, you’ll need to give directions so he can help get you to the check-out lanes. If you’re using assistance, your helper will get you there. Whichever, once you locate the check-out counter, you may need to drop your harness and heel your dog as the lanes are often too narrow to work side by side. Put your dog in a “sit” while you take care of paying for you items. Once you are ready to leave, step out from the check-out lane and face the direction you need travel to begin working toward the exit. If you’re not sure where the exit is, ask the cashier or other handy person. Go slow and continue to direct your dog as needed until you locate your exit. Use a “Yes” and food reward and proceed out. Once outside, you’ll need to begin thinking about how to get established on your route home. If you need to cross a parking lot to get to/from your store, be very careful and have clear landmarks you can ask the dog to target in order to get you established on your route. Remember that the most direct way may not be the best way when using a dog. If there are no real landmarks to target, it will be difficult to remain oriented. Sometimes, the longer way may be the easier and less stressful way for both you and your dog. One last note: Remember that your dog needs to be well groomed and under control or you can be asked to leave any store, restaurant etc.

Revised 3/2015

Chapter 33:Working Your Dog Guide: Buses, Escalators, Elevators, Opaque and

Glass Doors

As a team both handler and dog guide will access and utilize common modes of entry and exiting of buildings and floor levels as well as public transportation. Every dog guide handler is different and will have their own preference of which mode they choose to get around. It will be important for all dog guide handlers to learn and understand how to handle them.

A dog guide handler that will be traveling frequently throughout the country or abroad may be confronted with anyone of these. In known areas dog guide handlers will be patterned to specific modes and know them well. They will have already made choices of which modes to utilize. Over the next several days you will be learning how to use them.

EscalatorsEscalators have become more and more common in many locations. Escalators are common place in all malls and are often utilized to accelerate access to public transportation, airports, trains and subway platforms etc. The escalator can in fact be utilized by the dog guide handler. However there are some key points that the handler will need to stay aware of when using this mode of access. Escalators generally are positioned side by side, one going up and the other going down. Escalators have a moving handrail that can easily be detected. It will be extremely important that the handler is able to recognize the sensation of the railing moving away from them rather then towards them. A railing that is moving towards the handler lets the handler know that this is not the correct escalator to board. The handlers hand will quickly pop off the railing if they have identified an escalator that is moving in the wrong direction. Handrails that move away from the handler will always feel as if the railing is taking their hand with it.

Dogs are conditioned to board and exit the escalator in training. They have had many exposures with the escalator before being paired with their new handlers. A dog guide will work up to the metal plate. It will then be the handler’s responsibility to locate the railing and toothed groove. It is important that the dog guide remain behind the handler before boarding. This allows the handler to control the situation and step onto the escalator when they are ready. The handler should only be holding the leash in their hand and the handle should be placed gently down on the dog’s back. By taking the dog onto the escalator on leash the handler is providing safety to the dog. A dog that is worked on and off an escalator has more of a chance of getting injured. This is due to the fact that the dog will be putting forward pressure into the harness and having to grip with their front paws to maintain balance. A tense or gripped paw is more likely to get caught in a broken tooth. Learning escalators is optional. If you decide you are never going to use them, talk with your instructor.

When boarding the escalator the handler should:

· Work the dog onto the metal plate and gently place the handle on the dog’s back· Wait five seconds to allow the flow of people to move ahead and create a buffer

zone for you and your dog· The handler will then locate the handrail and feel for the toothed groove with the

left foot· The handler will keep the dog slightly behind them as they board· The handler can cue the dog with a Lets Go and step on· Once on the escalator the handler should continue to keep the dog slightly behind

· Stay aware not to tighten up on the leash· Lightly check the dog back if needed and use a verbal stay· Do not pull or tug on the back strap as this will throw the dog off balance

When exiting the escalator:

· If the escalator is going down the handler will have their right arm and hand extended forward

· When exiting from a down escalator the handler will wait until they feel the handrail begin to flatten out. At that point they will start walking off, using a verbal Lets Go to the signal the dog to move

· When exiting the up escalator the handler will wait for the handrail to begin to round. They should then start walking off while signaling the dog with a Lets Go.

· The handler should walk several paces away from the escalator to avoid being bumped from behind by other people exiting

· Once off the team can resume harness work

We do not advise students in training to use moving sidewalks. These are common in large airports and can extend for a considerable distance. They are generally flat and often have people in both a moving and a standstill mode. Because people are often stopped and others are in motion there is little to no area for a dog to pass. The dog may also be looking for the end as it would with an escalator. However the moving sidewalk can continue for very long distances before ending. Furthermore travelers are moving about with their luggage which clogs up the available openings.

In class training students will have the opportunity to work on an escalator. However this is optional. If they do not use this mode of access and do not wish to practice on one, then they will not be required to have this experience. However it will be noted in the final report that the student was not shown this technique nor did they experience it with the dog. In these cases we will instruct the student not to use the escalators at home.

Some students may need to experience the escalator first by going through the motions with JUNO. This will allow them to process and work through the information before having to think about the safety of their dog. The class IA will hold onto their dog at the base of the escalator until the JUNO experience is completed.

Handlers and their dogs can utilize escalators very smoothly as long as they are confident, comfortable and acquire good technique. Otherwise they should avoid using them with their dogs.

Elevators:Elevators are a frequent mode of access utilized by dog guide handlers. Elevators can be easily targeted in the same manner that any solid door is targeted. The dog is worked up to the elevator with the target cue/command of To the Door. Once the handler has

located the door and praised the dog they should step to the side. Elevator buttons are located on the right or left side of the opening doors. The handler should remain back and to the left or right side. If they are blocking the opening they will be confronted with people exiting and quite often encounter moms with strollers. People exiting have the right of way. Once the wave of people has subsided the handler will be prepared to motion their dog to enter the opening. They should remember that their dog will need to clear to the right or left before entering due to the handler’s positioning while waiting.

Always command the dog with a Forward first and never step a head of your dog for any reason. In the event that the door opens and the dog is confronted with an open shaft the dog will demonstrate intelligent disobedience by refusing to enter or doing a complete about turn to avoid the dangerous situation. Once on the elevator complete a suggested turn by commanding the dog Right, Right. The handler and dog will now be facing the doors and ready to exit when the doors open. The dog can remain standing and in working position at the handler’s left side. When the door opens the handler should immediately exit on a Forward command and move away from the elevator to prevent getting bumped from behind.

When riding the elevator stay aware at all times where the dog’s head is. Elevators can get quite crowded and you will need to keep your dog both safe and its head away from visiting other people or their belongings. However try to stay in front so that you are the first to exit. Most elevators open on one side but there are elevators that open at both the back and the front. If this is a known elevator then face the door you plan to exit. If this is an unknown elevator to you then be prepared to move and turn with the dog when it locates the door as it opens. You may be able to feel air, hear noise or detect light from the opening.

Many high end hotels or upscale malls will have glass elevators. These can be unsettling to the dog since they can see out on all sides. The dog may need a few exposures to acclimate and accept this type of elevator. It is not uncommon for the dog to move around and try to get its balance or natural equilibrium. Counter conditioning can be used in these situations to help the dog become more comfortable.

Opaque and Glass doors, Single, Double and Banks of Doors:

Doors of all types will be utilized by the dog guide team very often during the course of their normal day. Doors can be set up in a variety of ways as listed in the heading above. In training and throughout the dog’s working life it begins to recognize the shape and configuration of doors. Glass doors allow the dog to see to the outside and are useful to them in identifying exits. There are several methods in which a team can handle doors. They involve working or passing through on leash. Doors can be hinged on the right or left side. The handler should always position the dog to pass through the door on the open or free side of the door. This allows the dog to have the most room for negotiating. The handler should never attempt to pass the dog between themselves and the hinged side. This is dangerous to the dog and could result in an injury, particularly getting the

tail caught. Once a dog has gotten pinched in a door it will be some time before it will willingly approach any door again.

Handlers will need to stay aware of keeping the leash loose at all times and not restricting the dog’s movement.

The side command students have practiced throughout the course of class. The second method of going through a left hinged door is called a pivot.

PivotingPivoting is a term used in guide work to describe how a handler and dog can pass through a door by turning towards and out from the door itself. With this technique the dog remains on the handler’s left side. The handler will then turn their right shoulder against the door. As they open the door they will then back out. The dog will be passed on leash on the handler’s left side. The dog will be moving through the free space that is not hinged. Once clear of the door the handler can resume their positioning at heel. This pivoting or rolling method works well when the handler is carrying something in the right hand.

Both methods have value and the dogs understand each one. This is a clear example where the dog is reading the handlers body language. Simply by moving the leash to the right hand tells the dog that the Side method is occurring. By turning the right shoulder towards the door the dog will interpret a pivot. These simple methods are designed to keep both dog and handler safe. Students in class training will be shown both methods.

When locating doors with the dog the handler will have to be understanding of what the dog perceives as the actual door. It is unrealistic to think that the dog will target the handle or knob of each door accurately every time. Banks of doors especially glass doors are framed out in metal. The dog will bring the handler up to what they perceive the door to be. With a bank of doors the dog will gravitate towards the metal framing. It is the handler’s responsibility to help the dog by searching for the actual handle or knob. If a handler uses the same door or doors frequently the dog will begin to recognize specific locations at the door and become more accurate with locating the handle etc. Again if the handler is too demanding or corrects they may run the risk of the dog being confused or diminishing its drive in getting to the door.

Buses:Buses are considered one of the most utilized modes of public transportation. Many small towns have a bus line even though they don’t run as frequently as bus lines in large cities. Dog guide travelers ride buses on a frequent basis and access this mode of travel most consistently. There are some basic rules about working and riding buses with dog guides. Listed below are the most common rules:

· The dog guide handler will need to learn the bus lines for their neighborhood, this prevents standing and waiting for long periods for buses which may never come

· Learn what type of doors the bus has. Is the railing on the right or is there a railing that runs in the center of the stairs.

· Does the bus have the ability to lower its stairs· Locate the seats closest to the driver and front exit door· Keep your dog sitting along side you· Protect your dog’s tail by tucking it in between your foot and the dog· Be aware of what the dog’s head is doing, do not allow it to scavenge, visit with

other people or their belongings.

If the bus has a door that has a railing to the right then the dog can be worked on and off. If the railing is in the center the handler should work the dog up to the door and then heel the dog on or off. The space is very narrow and both the handler and dog will have trouble negotiating. Once off the bus immediately pick up the harness handle and work to the nearest curb. Bus drivers are known for not pulling up close to the curb line and often the handler has to work the dog in the street for some distance before reaching a curb. By working the dog it keeps the handler away from potentially dangerous situations, construction, and holes in the street and fast moving pedestrians.

Ideally the handler should sit as close to the driver as possible in order not to miss their stop. These seats nearest the driver generally face the aisle. The handler again will have to keep their dog protected and be aware of what the dog’s head is doing at all times.

The handler should stay aware of the weather conditions and temperatures. While waiting for the bus the handler should seek shelter in the bus vestibule, particularly in very hot or cold weather. If there is no bus shelter position the dog under a bench. The handler can also utilize the booties issued in class if they suspect that their dog’s feet are suffering. Waiting for a bus in December in Buffalo, NY can be brutal. In contrast waiting for a bus in Tucson, Arizona in summer can be down right relentless.

Try to go by the philosophy of if you as a handler are cold, hot or uncomfortable, chances are your dog will be feeling the same. Dogs like people can suffer from frost bite and or heat exhaustion. Do not put your dog in situations where it could progress to the above mentioned scenarios.

Chapter 34 - Traffic Exercises

Class traffic training will actually take place in 2 parts over 2 separate days. Tomorrow will be the first day, and we will be doing a practicum which will help you to understand what responses to expect from your dog and how to react to them.

1. Alumni Hall will be set up with a narrow chute with barriers along both sides in order to limit the dogs’ options. There will be 3 stages to this exercise:

A. During the first stage, each team will work through the chute, all the way to the double glass doors at the back of the room. Students should praise

and reward their dog at the door. Teams will then heel back around to the beginning of the chute and reset for the next stage.

B. During the second stage, teams will work through the chute, and the supervisor will come from the opposite direction with a rolling cart. Your dog will stop as the cart approaches, at which point the supervisor will back the cart out of the way. Once the cart has disappeared, teams should proceed down the chute and target the double glass doors. Praise and reward at the door, then reset for the next stage.

C. During the third stage, teams will work through the chute, and again the supervisor will approach with the cart. This time, when the dog stops the supervisor will continue to move toward the team, creating a situation in which the dog will start to back up. Once the appropriate response is achieved, the supervisor will then move the cart back and out of the way. Once it has disappeared, the team should continue down the chute to the double glass doors, praise and reward.

2. On-Route Traffic Checks: This is normally done the second Saturday of class in White Plains. The supervisor will bring an additional vehicle to White Plains and position themselves accordingly to create traffic checks during routes. Now that you have had some prior practice in recognizing your dog’s response to traffic, you will likely encounter at least two traffic checks during your route. You will be prompted about when to expect the first check, but subsequent checks may come unexpectedly.

Ideal Response to a Traffic Check

An ideal response is one in which both you and your dog maintain or create a safe distance (or zone) from a vehicle. This can be accomplished by either moving forward away from a vehicle which is behind the team; by stopping or refusing forward movement at a safe distance from a vehicle; or by backing up and away from the vehicle, thus creating a safe zone. A forward refusal at a down curb in the face of traffic is another ideal response in which the dog is demonstrating intelligent disobedience. Be sure to provide verbal praise and support for your dog during traffic checks, however, you should NOT offer any food reward. The dogs attention should remain focused on the task at hand, not on potential food. Once you are safely back on the sidewalk, or the danger has passed, you can offer additional physical and verbal praise. Traffic checks can be an intense experience for both handlers and dogs, and it is a good idea to take a few moments to regroup before continuing on your way.

During training, instructor staff may choose to create a “natural” check at a down curb. The purpose of this exercise is primarily to demonstrate the type of response your dog might have when a car cuts in front of you unexpectedly. It is NOT recommended that you ever attempt this type of set up without the direct supervision of an instructor. Always use you best judgment to determine when it is safe to cross a street.If your instructor chooses to do this during your training, he or she will explain their intent and then will likely use a tap on your shoulder to prompt you to give the forward

command. Your instructor will gauge the traffic and have you give the forward command at such a time as to create a situation in which your dog must respond to a moving vehicle. There are different responses that are appropriate depending upon how close the car is, how fast it is moving, the angle of the approach etc… Your dog may stand and hold position, confidently refusing the forward cue as the car passes in front of you, or may back up a few steps if your dog feels the car is too close. Make sure to move backwards with your dog if this occurs and praise for either response once the car has passed. In some instances the dog may enter the street slowly and then pick up its pace once the car passes.   This too can be an acceptable response for checks that occur further away from the curb. If during this exercise your dog gets too close to the car before responding, your instructor may prompt you to “check” your dog, indicating that you should correct your dog with a harness check for getting too close to a vehicle.

Chapter 35: Natural Occurring Barriers

Obstructing Dog Guide Travel

In training dogs are patterned to what is referred to as a straight line concept. This allows the dog to move laterally within its environment but still moving ahead on a straight line. Dogs are conditioned to clear both to the right and the left when able and to locate and follow the open pathway. However there will be times when the pathway is completely obstructed. In these cases the dog guide team will have to change direction before they can resume their original travel. There are three main types of barriers that dog guide teams will commonly come in contact with.

· Left and right barriers with an open pathway· Full blockade, total obstruction of the line of travel· Over head barriers, obstructions that are out of the view of the dog

The three barriers are handled slightly different but with the same goal in mind.

Common left and right barriers are garbage, flower pots, parking meters and signs. In these situations the handler merely has to follow their dog closely, not crowding or pulling right as the dog locates the most available pathway.

Full blockades are more difficult and can be very confusing to a handler that is traveling along a familiar route. The full obstruction disrupts the rhythm and causes the handler to change direction. Common full blockades are parked cars across the sidewalk, trucks unloading boxes, temporary construction fences or walls and taped off areas. In most cases the dog will slow down and hesitate. Seasoned or experience dogs may negotiate the barrier all in one motion. However if it is a true total blockade it is best if the handler can physically locate it. They will ask their dog to Hup up and then take their hand and with an upward and forward motion sweep down in front of them to try and locate what is blocking the path. If the handler is successful then they will praise their dog. The

handler will then step back with their left foot giving the dog plenty of room to locate a new pathway.

Ideally the handler should turn towards the street to avoid wandering into a small space or getting lost down an alley. After stepping back the handler will ask the dog to respond to “Forward”. Next the handler will locate the side curb. Then the handler will listen to the traffic and ask the dog to go “Forward” when it is all quiet. Upon entering the street the handler will tell the dog right or left so that they are facing in the original line of travel. The handler will need to realize that it may take the dog several paces before they can locate a suitable opening. This will take some time for the handler to learn and decipher when the dog needs to return back to the sidewalk. If they turn too early they may pull the dog into another barrier, too late and they may continue walking down the street. As teams gain more experience with full blockades they will improve. Once in the home area some teams will encounter these barriers frequently while other teams may not.

Over heads are the third most common barrier. Historically this has been the most difficult type to condition dogs to on a consistent basis. Dog guides do not naturally look up as they are working therefore they can easily miss objects that are not in their line of vision. Dogs do however have a large peripheral field of vision, approximately 240 degrees and can see a considerable amount on either side of them.

Overheads that are connected to objects several feet off the ground may help the dog detect that it is there. Particularly if there is a gradual protrusion of the object. Air conditioners, metal signs, café umbrellas and awnings pose the biggest concern. Dogs that work with handlers that are tall begin to take notice more of over heads since these handlers will make contact more often. There have been instances in the field where a dog had stopped for a tree limb for years. One day the town cuts the limb down. The dog still consistently stops in that location for its handler. Why? The dog had land marked the area so well; not necessarily the limb.

When the handler is able and working known routes they should land mark these over heads to the dog early on. The clicker is a valuable tool to teach the dog to stop & locate these obstacles. The handler can either carry a probing cane and pause when in the perceived vicinity or have a sighted friend help to point out potentially dangerous over heads. The clicker can be used with the back chaining method gradually increasing the distance.

After the dog understands and can locate the over head the handler should step back and give the dog enough room to negotiate a clear path around the overhead or duck underneath when safe to do so. Praise once you are past the overhead. Having the dog stop and locate it lets the handler know that the over head is approaching.

Chapter 36: Revolving doors

Revolving doors are designed to keep people in motion and moving rapidly between two spaces. The revolving door can be thought of as a pie shape or round circle. Within the pie there are slices cut. These slices or wedges make up the separate doors or compartments that the traveler will move through. Close to the center the compartment is the narrowest; the entrance to the compartment the widest. Revolving doors move counter clockwise and there is a horizontal handle bar on the door on the right side of the compartment. In the past dogs were conditioned to move through the space while working as well as switching to the handler’s right side. GEB has found over the years that it is safer for the dog to be on the handler’s right side when passing through a revolving door. Even a small female lab will still need sufficient room to enter and exit the compartment. When using a revolving door with a dog guide the handler should:

· Locate the rubber strip on the outer edge of one of the wedges· Command/cue the dog “Side” so that the dog moves behind and to the right side

of you· Move into the interior of the compartment so the dog has room to stand on your

right side and is fully inside the compartment· Put both hands on the handle bar with your right hand on the far right side of the

handle bar. The short leash should be fully relaxed and looped through your right hand. Do not loop it over your arm as the leash will slide up your arm & your dog may not follow you properly.

· Command/cue the dog with a “Lets Go”· Gently begin pushing the door· Push through the door at a consistent speed· Exit the compartment as you feel air or when the dog initiates movement

Other travelers may be in a rush and try to force the door to move quicker then you are comfortable with. By placing a foot behind the handler and making contact with the base of the rear panel the handler can slow down the speed of the door. You may also control the speed with both hands on the handle bar. You may encounter some revolving doors that are automatic. The automatic door can be similar to a standard revolving door or be a large open space with a moving wall. Handlers should avoid both types of these automatic doors. It is difficult to decipher when to enter these doors and the speed cannot be controlled. In the large revolving doors with a moving wall it is very easy for the handler and dog to become disoriented or for the dog to be injured.

Chapter 37:Working a Dog Guide in Side Walk Less Environments, Shore lining,

Indenting and Land Marking

There are many different environments that a dog guide handler can work their dog in. The most common environments are cities, towns and villages all which have access to side walks and utilize some sort of grid system. In addition most of these places have a consistent traffic flow, have lighted intersections and people out on the streets. However there are other types of environments that the dog guide handler will work their dog in. One such area is the side walk less environment. This is sometimes referred to as “country travel” meaning working in an area with no side walks.

We teach you how to travel in this kind of environment on a street called Colonial Street which is next to the school and can be accessed via a path outside the “country door” which is at the top of “country hall”. The road and substrate meet not unlike the way water and sand meet at the beach; hence we call it a shore line.

Side walk less environments can be suburban or rural and there are slight variations to each even though the general philosophy remains the same.Typically rural environments are more difficult because the road can meander in many directions and the difference between the substrates can be hard to detect. In suburban environments the roads and homes are more manicured and have more definition between the substrates. Many suburban areas will have a curb line that runs along the road or the grass will be well defined. In rural areas the distinction between the road and the natural area is not always easy to detect. There may be sand, gravel, leaves, soil or other types of substrate along the route and many roads have a crown in the middle and taper or drop off at the sides. This can be an indication of where the handler is in relation to the road itself but not every handler will be able to detect this variation. For this reason it will be extremely important that the dog guide handler utilize a shore lining method.

Shore liningA shore lining method allows the handler to check the shoreline and decipher where they are in relation to the remainder of the road itself. Most dogs will follow a shore line fairly well; however you will still need to periodically check so that you know where you are. The more often you check the shoreline the more aware you will be of your location as you travel down the road. The handler will travel down the road facing the oncoming traffic. This gives the motorist the opportunity to see the dog guide handler approaching. It also gives the dog the opportunity to see the vehicles instead of having the vehicles sneak up behind and startle them. This also puts the dog in between the handler and the substrate so the dog can safely clear around drains or debris.

Shore lining with a dog guide involves turning left with the dog to face where the road meets the natural substrate. Tell your dog to “wait”, then turn 90 degrees to your left & allow the dog to take you to the shore line with a “to the curb”. Once the handler turns left in place it will be their responsibility to probe for the edge. The left foot comes out to

identify the edge and maintain position. The handler then gently turns back to the right by releasing their left foot and resuming the original line of travel. If the turn is made too dramatically the team will enter the middle of the road. It is important for the handler to understand at least initially that although the dog is turning left it will not pick up a new line of travel from that turn. The turn is only used to help with identifying the shore line. It is not uncommon for individuals who are challenged with their orientation to attempt to cross over the grass.

With repetition these turns become easier and the handler will find that by simply turning towards the shore line the dog will also turn. If turns are performed too dramatically the team will lose their orientation frequently. We recommend that a dog guide handler check the shoreline every 30-40 paces as they travel. In newer environments, particularly when acclimating the dog the handler will have to remain mindful of this. With established routes the handler can shore line less frequently and concentrate on key areas that hold importance. In addition to checking frequently the handler will need to listen to vehicles that are passing by. Some areas have constant traffic while others have only sporadic. Anytime a handler can hear a vehicle they should as a rule of thumb turn to the shore line. In areas that have high volume traffic the handler will need to check frequently along the workout.

If your dog encounters a car parked along the shore line, the dog should show you the car so that you know it is there. When found, praise your dog, listen for traffic, then bring your foot back and tell your dog forward. Your dog will begin to clear you around the car and you can begin to use a suggested left command back to the shore line. This will safely prevent you from being out in the street between a parked car and a moving car.

Land markingHandlers will need to identify intersecting roads as well as cross over points. These are areas in which the handler will need to land mark. By land marking the handler patterns the dog to stop and identify a specific location. We use what is referred to as a back chaining method to help with this process. With back chaining the handler brings the dog to the desired destination or stopping location. The clicker is used to identify the land mark. The dog is given praise and food reward. Now the handler backs up only a few paces and re-approaches. When working with an instructor the instructor uses a cue word or places their hand on the students shoulder to let the student know where the exact stopping location is. The student clicks, praises and food rewards.

The process is continued and the handler and dog continue to back up in increments. For example, 6-8 paces, then 15-20 paces, then 20-35. This allows the dog to build drive to that location. The praise and food reward helps to solidify that stopping location. Many times there may not be a clear visual reference point to the dog and in fact the dog is learning an obscure location. The dog will gradually make the association. Intersections, driveways, mailboxes etc. can help the dog to identify. When working in side walk less areas the handler should:

· Work the dog with traffic coming towards them· Check the shore line frequently, every 30-40 paces on new routes· Use the back chaining method to teach land marking specific locations· Learn the configuration of the road, does it meander, is there a curb line, does the

substrate vary, does the road have a crown in it, is there a drop off on the sides, ditches or gullies

Handlers may find carrying a probing or ID cane beneficial. This is a short cane that can be used to locate changes in the shore line, trees, mailboxes etc. Some handlers find by using the probing cane they do not have to alter their orientation as much and interfere with the dog’s work therefore breaking the fluidity. Handlers that have some residual vision may not need to identify the shore line as frequently. They may be able to detect contrast between the grass and pavement.

The over command:In this case the handler can use an OVER command to remind the dog to walk close to the left side. Similar to suggested turns the handler will give the first command of OVER and then expect the dog to move over on the second command. Many handlers find this to be a proficient and useful technique.

Indenting:Handlers that work exclusively and extensively with this type of travel will also have to incorporate another element into their work and travel. This is referred to as INDENTING. Indenting is a way for the dog guide handler to locate and identify intersecting streets. By locating each intersecting street the handler can keep track of their own location by counting the number of streets. If the handler were to just work past the street they could easily lose the shoreline and lose track of time and distance. By indenting the handler maintains control of their environment and the workout. In addition it will help the dog remain consistent in its work and specifically it’s straight line.

The instructor will have the student follow the dog into the intersecting street for a number of paces, approximately 15-20. The handler should be well away from the mouth or opening of the street to avoid veering. This will also allow the handler to locate the straightest cross over point. After the handler has indented they will stop. Many handlers prefer to slide a foot backwards to feel the curb line. Before crossing the handler will listen to the traffic as they normally would. The handler commands the dog with a FORWARD and then will use TO THE CURB just as they would in any crossing. Using “Straight to the curb” will alert the dog that you wish to cross over to the other side rather than just making a turn and continuing on the original shore line. Once on the other side the handler will identify and be prepared to turn right and pick up the new shore line. Once the new shore line has been located the handler should initially check to be sure they are close.

As the team approaches Colonial Street they will need to stop and cross over. In these cases where the student is traveling the top of the T they will need to by pass the

intersecting road before crossing. By doing this it will keep dog and handler consistent with making 90% turns. The handler should pass the intersecting road a number of paces, 15-20. The next driveway is a good land mark. They can use the clicker to land mark this for practice. Then they will stop and turn back towards the road before crossing over. Once on the other side they will have the dog follow the new shoreline and locate Colonial Street. Once indented into Colonial Street the handler should stop briefly before commanding the dog to the left. This will keep up the consistency with indenting.

Dog guide handlers that travel frequently at night on side walk less roads should wear some sort of reflective jogging vest or jacket. The more visible the dog and handler can be the safer they will remain.

With indenting handlers should remember:

· Follow the dog a number of paces into the intersection, 15-20 paces· Slide a foot back to detect the straight edge of the shoreline· Work the crossing like any other crossing· Check your shore line after initially crossing· When needing to pick up an adjacent street, pass by the top of the intersection

first, 15-20 paces before crossing over· Carry a probe cane if beneficial to the handler· Be patient with the dog and provide sufficient number of workouts before dog

patterns· Reward the dog heavily at key destinations, home, bus stop or store

When students return home:

· If they have established routes they can acclimate the dog themselves· If the handler is acclimating to a new route they should seek out an O&M

instructor, dog guide instructor or at the very least a sighted friend that has worked with them before

Chapter 38: College and University campus travel with a guide dog

College and university campuses present unique orientation and mobility challenges. Campuses are generally sprawling with buildings interconnected by winding walkways which branch off and intersect with other walkways and roads. There are frequently areas of large, open plazas. This type of lay out is difficult to navigate as there are few tactile and audible cues. Often, there are no tactile cues to identify an intersection of paths to cue a choice in change of direction. Some campuses may have tactile strips. There may be subtle or no tactile cues to clearly identify an intersection of a path with a road. If you will be attending a college or university, you will need to plan carefully and leave plenty of time for training sessions before actually starting your classes and daily routine.

You must become well oriented to the campus, getting a general idea of the overall layout, identifying your housing, bus stops, classrooms, offices and other important places like the student union, dining areas, etc. Once you have your schedule, you will want to make a list of your routes. Remember to include relief areas for your dog and yourself. The better you know your campus routes before classes begin, the easier it will be on both you and your dog. Ideally, you will contact and get assistance from an Orientation and Mobility specialist. If you are unable to get assistance from an O&M professional, the students with disabilities office should have someone to assist you with orientation. You have likely already worked with them regarding accessible course materials, classes, etc. Their level of services and assistance regarding orientation will vary. Don’t be shy about advocating for your orientation needs. The college or university is required to provide you with reasonable accommodations. Ideally, you will first receive orientation to the campus and learn routes without your dog guide. While you are learning your routes, identify places you will be teaching your dog to target and landmark. Once you have a basic foundation of your routes and have prioritized your routes, you can begin patterning your dog guide. It is a good idea to do this over several days before classes begin, when the campus is less crowded. If you have several routes, you may not be able to tackle them all in one day. Keep training sessions relatively short and very positive. Take breaks and have some fun and games at your destinations before proceeding to either a re-work of the route or another route. Initially, heel your dog through the route, taking time to draw the dog’s attention to targets and landmarks by utilizing praise and food reward. Next, you will need to put into practice the targeting exercises taught at Guiding Eyes. Begin working your dog to targets and landmarks by back chaining. Remember to start very close to the target and not to increase distance from the target until you can bet someone one hundred dollars the dog will identify the target. Then, and only then, will you be able to raise your expectations and add a little distance. This will be an area where using your clicker with food reward will become extremely beneficial. Once your dog is consistently identifying targets, work routes with assistance following. Ask them to cue you if you are getting off track so you can quickly give your dog clear direction, avoiding confusion. Should you need to cue your dog, you will want to reward their getting back on track and then re-work that area by heeling them several feet before they veered from the intended line of travel. Repeat until the dog no longer needs a cue. It is a good idea to have sighted assistance shadow you when classes start. All the people now traveling on campus add new challenges as they may impede your line of travel and may unwittingly block your targets. For example, groups of students tend to congregate in large open areas. This group may be blocking your intended line of travel, giving the dog a challenge of figuring out the best way to get around the group and back to the intended line of travel. Another example, let’s suppose one of your targets is the intersection of campus tactile strips or a garbage can and a person is blocking those physical targets, your dog will need to figure out how to get you to the target without knocking the person over. Getting feedback from sighted assistance will allow you to support your dog with direction and praise as they figure out how to maintain the intended direction of travel or still indicate the blocked target. Each new semester will bring new classes and new routes. You will need to pattern your dog to the new routes using the same process as before. Since dogs pattern very strongly, your dog will want to indicate old target locations. It will take patience, direction and

praise to assure them you no longer wish to find the old targets. Should your dog be successful and indicate an old target, give little- no reinforcement, essentially ignoring the target. Next, provide clear direction back to the intended line of travel. New target locations will receive a lot of reinforcement. Your dog will eventually focus on the new, reinforced locations. All your planning and efforts will pay off as having a dog guide has a distinctive advantage over a cane in a non-grid environment. However, navigating any campus can be challenging and you may get discouraged from time to time. Take time to rehearse routes and establish strong targets. Seek assistance when you feel you need it. When attending classes it will be important to choose locations in the classroom that keep your dog from being stepped on, interacted with or offered food. When possible, choose a seat where the dog can see who is entering and exiting. The dog should be looking out rather than facing a wall. Avoid the center of the room and choose an aisle that is protected by a wall or desk etc. You and your dog will be faced with many distractions throughout your everyday campus life. It will be important for you to control your dog both when working in harness and when on leash. When you stop to chat, it is a good habit to have the dog immediately sit or down. This way the dog can wait for further information from you and will be deterred from visiting other people or searching for dropped food items on the floor. People may intentionally try to distract your dog. Keep in mind, you cannot control the actions of others, you can only control your dog and your response. If you consistently put into practice the counter conditioning exercises done at Guiding Eyes, people trying to distract your dog will be very disappointed when your dog looks lovingly to you and not them. You may try to educate the community by distributing or posting the Guiding Eyes To Whom It May Concern letters or bookmarks which explain important facts about dog guides, including how to behave around a dog guide and why. Stacks of bookmarks can be sent to you through Graduate Support Services and can be left in common areas. Finally, a “do not pet me” sign placed on the harness handle may help deter people from petting or talking to your dog. If you find yourself working primarily campus travel with your dog and rarely working in a grid type of environment, it is highly recommended you make time to do some regular street work to keep your dog guide’s skills sharp in a grid environment. You may become oriented with the school’s city or town, working there or you might find you can only do this when visiting home. Either way is fine and will ensure when you graduate, your dog’s guide skills in a grid environment will have been maintained. A few final considerations: You may want to carry a Nylabone, extra dog food, a collapsible bowl, pick up bags and a long line in your back pack. If you are running late and can’t get back to your housing, you are still ready to take care of your dog. The Nylabone can be used for down time away from other students. You may want to find out where you can do some long line play and/ or retrieve games with your dog on campus. It is a good idea to find an accessible room for this, especially during inclement weather or weather extremes. It will be important for you to know several relief areas for your dog. For traveling around a large campus, you may want to consider looking into a GPS, which can be helpful used in conjunction with your dog. You will want to become skilled using the GPS and skilled using your dog separately before using them at the same time.

Chapter 39: Working a Dog Guide at Night

For many dog guide handlers working their dog at night can be a different experience than working in day light. Dog guide handlers have a wide variation of vision loss from not being able to detect any shapes or light (total) to seeing through a small amount of central or peripheral field. Both street lights and lights reflecting off vehicles can disrupt the remaining vision that an individual is utilizing during the day light hours. This can greatly affect how the handler and dog communicate and work together.

In contrast dog’s night vision is very good. Dogs are considered to possess what is referred to as rod rich eyes. Rods are responsible for collecting light. Due to this reason dogs are able to see quite well in dim or dark conditions. Many of us have observed a dog’s eyes light up when the light from a vehicle reflects off of them. The reflective film helps to distribute all of the available light back through the retina. The eye is utilizing all the available light even in low light conditions.

For dog guide handlers that have remaining vision it becomes very important for them to learn night travel with their dogs. Some handlers may opt. not to work their dogs at night while others may want to or not have a choice due to work etc. Listed below are some of the commonly observed issues associated with adjusting to the change in light.

· The handler will hold back in the handle more then they normally would· The handler may pull the dog towards what they can see· The street and car lights may distort their light perception or visual field causing

the handler to lose orientation· The handler may not trust the dog fully during night conditions· The handler may walk slower then what is typical for them· The handler may show a lack of confidence where as during the day they are

confident, capable travelers

Some of the dogs may be stronger then usual at first. The night can have different sounds and smells. In addition if the student is having any of the above issues this may influence the dogs normal pace and pull. Many of the students find the experience of working at night to be very beneficial. For some it may have been the first time that they fully trusted the dog and followed it laterally unconditionally.

Another important aspect of working at night is to consider the effect low light has on a driver’s ability to see a guide dog team. The guide dog harness has reflective tape on the handle and body, however if you must work your dog after dark it is highly recommended that you use additional lighting and or reflective clothing to make yourself and your dog more as visible as possible to others. There are several things you can do to improve your visibility including wearing light and bright colored clothing. Use of battery operated bike flashers, bright and reflective exercise clothing, a hand held battery or commercially available illuminated dog collar or harness are all items that can improve your visibility as a team and increase your overall safety when traveling at night.

Part of the above information that was referenced came from:http://psychlops.psy.uconn.edu/eric/class/dogvisionhtml

Chapter 40: Photos

Photos are done by a professional photographer who has been working with GEB for many years. The photos are portrait-style and are suitable for framing. A small version of the portrait will be placed on the ID card that we give you when you leave. At graduation, your dog’s puppy raisers will also receive a copy of the portrait photo.

The first photo will be of the entire class, including the instructors. Then we will take individual photos of you and your dog. You will be seated on a low table with the dog in harness sitting next to you. The photographer will position you; the instructors will position your dog. Several shots will be taken so the photographer can pick the best one. He might whistle or make noises to get your dog's attention.

The photos GEB gives you free of charge are:• 1-8 X10 of you and your dog• 8 wallet-size pictures of you and your dog• the 2 class photos with the names of all students, dogs, and instructors on the

Back

If you would like a special photo (i.e. your dog alone, you and your roommate or friend, etc.), the cost will be $10-15 apiece, depending upon what size it is. If you do want a special photo, please let us know.If you plan to order extra photos, you will place your order with Betty Guadagno some time in the afternoon following photos. We will make an announcement after which it is your responsibility to come find her and tell her what you are ordering; she will be in the lobby.

What to wear: Bright colors such as red and blue look very nice. We do not recommend wearing only white, as it makes the picture look washed out. A white shirt with a print or with a jacket and solid colored tie is fine.

Chapter 41: Graduation

Graduation is the last Saturday of class. A 15-minute portion of the program is given to you to fill however you want. Classes often choose a graduate speaker. You can have more than one if you wish. For example, you could have someone represent the first time guide dog users and someone represent the returning graduates. You may also choose to add a poem or a song. The time is given over to you so you may make the ceremony your own. Nothing religious or political should be included in the ceremony. If you need any props for graduation, please let us know well before graduation and we will try to get them for you. If you need to use the piano, let us know soon so we can have it tuned. The

Class Supervisor will need to see the program by Monday morning before graduation and the speech by Thursday for approval. We will be showing the class slideshow right before graduation. Everyone will get a copy which will be sent to your home. Also included on the video are short segments of you introducing yourselves and your dogs. This filming is usually done one afternoon, often the same day as photos.

The afternoon before graduation, maintenance will set up Alumni Hall with chairs for the audience, so Alumni Hall will not be available for play sessions Friday evening. We will do a practice run through of graduation Saturday morning.

Graduation is open to the public, family, friends and puppy raisers, many of whom have been waiting anxiously for this day. We often don’t know which puppy raisers are coming until very close to graduation itself.

Approximately 100 – 150 people attend each graduation ceremony. Along with puppy raisers the audience is comprised of staff, volunteers, donors and potential new friends of Guiding Eyes. You’ll learn more about the different types of volunteers that day; these positions are quite diverse and include a range of time and energy commitments. Everyone at graduation is there to celebrate your success and your new partnership with your Guiding Eyes dog. There are volunteers and supporters who have been connected to Guiding Eyes for years – some of whom are attending their very first graduation. Most of these people have contributed to this day in some way and have looked forward to it for a long time. They are there because they want to make a difference – either with their time or their financial resources. For many people, graduation day serves as the culminating point of their efforts.

Keep these audiences in mind as you gather your thoughts; here are some suggestions for crafting an inspirational graduation speech:

· Relate an important life milestone that brought you to Guiding Eyes.· Share some previous life accomplishments and any hopes or dreams for your life

with your new guide dog.· Think about what you might be able to achieve now that you might not have been

before.  · How has Guiding Eyes changed your life?  

Guiding Eyes volunteers and donors make it possible for us to place 170 guide dogs each year. It is our hope that people leaving graduation are inspired by what they’ve heard - and motivated to continue to make a difference for our future students.

Keeping this in mind, our puppy raiser regions extend from Maine to North Carolina and west to Ohio. Many puppy raisers drive a long way just to meet you, see their puppy for what could be the last time and have closure. They also come to celebrate you as a team which in turn reinforces the sacrifices and love spent getting this puppy here to this one very important day. Though you may have friends and family coming, please spend

time with your puppy raisers. Many of them will have put together a gift or photo album for you. They may only be able to be here for a short time before turning around and heading home. They will all have stories for you of your dog when your dog was a puppy. Remember, these are “puppy” stories and may be no more relavent to the adult dog you have now than the stories your parents tell friends about you as a toddler.

(If your puppy raisers give you dog toys as a gift; even if you feel they may not be suitable for your guide dog; accept them graciously and then have an instructor go through them later. We will send any unwanted toys to the kennel or to a local shelter.)

Chapter 42: Obesity In Dogs

Obesity is defined as the excessive accumulation of body fat. Between 25 and 40% of dogs are considered obese or likely to become obese. It is the most common nutrition related health condition in dogs in our society. The primary causes of obesity are overeating and lack of exercise. As in people, dogs carrying extra pounds of weight place extra demands on virtually all the organs of their bodies. When we overload these organs, disease and sometimes death are the consequences. The health risk to overweight dogs is serious and every dog owner should be aware of it. According to food manufacturer Ralston Purina Company, the health factors associated with obesity include skeletal stress, complications to diabetes, difficulty in regulating body temperature, and potential inflammation of the pancreas. Surgery takes longer if the veterinarian has to work his way through layers of fat, and obesity complicates drug therapy, anthesthesia, and recovery from injury.The Veterinary Services Department of Drs. Fosters & Smith, Inc., a large pet service corporation, goes into even more detail. Approximately 25% of overweight dogs develop serious joint complications such as arthritis or torn ligaments.

As in people, overweight dogs tend to have increased blood pressure which can lead to congestive heart failure. In overweight animals, the lungs can not function properly. Dogs that are overweight have less endurance and stamina.Fat is an excellent insulator. The heat of summer can take its toll as an overweight dog is much less capable of regulating its body temperature.The liver stores fat and overweight dogs can develop decreased liver function.The effects of obesity on the heart and lungs have serious ramifications during anesthesia. Cardiac arrest and poor circulation of oxygenated blood to the tissues can occur. An overweight dog has an increased risk of developing constipation and may also have more problems with internal gas and flatulence.Obesity in the dog is associated with decreased resistance to viral and bacterial infections. It is also associated with an increased risk of skin and coat diseases.The exact link between obesity and developing certain cancers is unknown. However, there have been studies which suggest that obese dogs tend to have an increased risk of developing certain types of cancers.

The highest indicator of obesity being a health risk: Overweight dogs die at a younger age than those maintained at an optimum weight.Ideally, you should be able to feel your dog’s ribs and waist. These areas should be discernible without being prominent. The ribs should have a thin layer of fat over them. Overweight dogs have increasing amounts of fat over the ribs, along the spine, and around the tail. Obese dogs have heavy fat over the ribs, along the spine, and around the tail.It’s possible that a dog could slowly gain weight and before you know it, when you go in for your veterinary check up, Juno is several pounds overweight. What do you do? Talk to your veterinarian about an immediate weight loss program and contact the school. We will work with you and your veterinarian. Consider GEB a guide dog weight watcher support group. This is also a good reason to get those vet check ups. If you need to loosen your dog’s harness belly strap a notch or two that is a red flag your dog may be putting on some pounds. If you haven’t had a vet check up in awhile, schedule one. Remember that your dog is an athlete and like an athlete, needs to stay in top condition. Most veterinarians out there are used to seeing pet dogs, many of which are overweight. This is a good reason to schedule an appointment not long after you go home. Introduce your dog to the people at your vet office. Tell them what your dog’s ideal weight is; which is your dog’s going home or target weight. This target weight is written on the health certificate that you bring home with you and you can give your vet office a copy of it. Explain to your veterinarian that your dog needs to stay at this weight or very close to it. That way, if Juno does put on a few pounds, your veterinarian already knows what an athletic working guide dog looks like and is prepared to help you work back to that weight.

Also remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, or pound of fat in our case. Feed your dogs a good quality dog food and an appropriate amount. We will go over this with each of you before you go home. No snacks except that which is acceptable to the Guiding Eyes Veterinarian Office and your Instructors. Types of appropriate snacks are covered in the vet lecture you receive on the day of class physicals. If you are using training treats throughout the day, cut back on some of Juno’s evening meal so that what you take out & what Juno had during the day equal out. Sometimes your situation can change; surgery, illness or other circumstances may prevent you from doing the routes you normally do which gives your dog exercise. If this will be over a long period of time, contact GEB. We’ll help you figure out what to do.

Above all remember, Guiding Eyes is here to help your team succeed. Every year we ask you to send in your work & health report. If we see a problem or potential risk, we’ll contact you & together we’ll work on it. On occasion, we have an extreme case of a dog so overweight that immediate action must be taken. We have had dogs returned from the field because they were so overweight that their health was at risk. The weight loss program at that point must be handled by professionals. We of course hope that this does not happen at all, as many of these dogs develop medical problems that prevent their being able to work anymore. In fact they usually have stopped guiding effectively before

they return here. It can be so easily prevented! You must be your dog’s watchdog where their weight is concerned! A healthy dog will be in the field much longer than an overweight one.

Chapter 43: Going Home With Your Guide Dog

Very soon, you will be leaving to go home with your new dog guide. Although this will be the end of class, it is only the beginning of your life with your dog. You are at a point where you feel comfortable working with as a team. You are now taking this dog and transitioning it to a place that you know very well but that your dog does not know at all. In this situation, the dog will look to you for guidance and structure. It will be extremely important that you are consistent of what you ask of the dog and follow a routine very closely. Your expectations both as a handler and care taker must be fair and realistic.

Throughout your class, we have been coaching you into becoming a trainer by teaching you the appropriate ways to work with your dog. It is now time to take what you have learned and put it into practice. Remember that your dogs are first and foremost dogs. People who have had dog guides before can tell you that it can take anywhere from six months to a year to be a solid team. Have patience with your dog, work through the errors. If you are returning home with a successor dog, you must remember that you are starting over again, and the new dog will not be familiar to the routine at home. Allow yourself time to acclimate your new dog to the home area.

THE TRIP HOME

For those of you that are flying home or taking the train, you will give your dog only a small handful of food for the morning meal, and a sip of water. You do not want your dog to have to empty while on the plane or train. Upon returning home you can feed a normal meal as close to the usual 4:00 feeding time as possible. If you are flying, the airline may try to put you in a bulkhead seat where there is room for the dog. Even if there are no bulkhead seats available, it is the airline's job to accommodate you and your dog.

MEETING FAMILY MEMBERS

Initially family members should have little direct interaction with the dog. They may greet the dog and pet it gently on the head as long as you have the dog sitting and under control, but the petting should be brief. Eventually family members will be able to interact with the dog but the graduate will be the chief care giver. This is difficult for small children. If they must interact with the dog, it must be quiet and calm.

You must be the one to provide the care for your dog. You must feed, walk, and groom your dog. This will help to solidify the bond between you, and help it understand that you are the one it should look to for support and guidance. Gradually you can teach other family members to care for the dog (feed, park, etc.) in case you should become ill. However, you should always be the primary caregiver the rest of the time.

ARRIVING AT HOME

It is a good idea to allow the dog to relax on the day you get back home. Try to stick as closely as possible to the Feed-Water-Park schedule we used here at Guiding Eyes, at least for a few days. You can adjust it to fit your schedule as needed, but try to wait until you have given the dog at least some time to settle in. You will also need to spend some time introducing your dog to its new park area. Your dog may be hesitant to relieve itself on a new surface, just like it was in class, so you will have to be patient and allow it 10-15 minutes at each park time just like you did initially in class.

On your second day at home, you should begin working your dog. Start with simple routes that you know well and can succeed at. From this, you can build on positive experiences. This is just what we did here in class, except at home the dog's confidence will come from you rather than from familiar routes and from the instructors.

You must know your route if you expect to succeed. You must be able to tell whether you are drifting off course or running over a curb so you can redirect the dog. It is ideal if you can have someone take you sighted guide on a familiar route before you work it with the dog. Have the dog sit at all curbs, and praise it at each one. You can then work the dog with the sighted person following.

It is ideal for you to take a few days off work to let the dog settle in; however, we know this is not always possible. If you must return to work immediately after getting home, take it easy on the first day. Get a ride if possible, and give yourself plenty of extra time to get there. Ideally, you should work a practice run. You should have already established a place at work where your dog can sleep, drink, and park; show these areas to your dog on the first day. You may take the dog's harness off at work for those times when the dog is just resting.

If you have recently moved but are still tentative on some of your routes contact an O&M instructor or one of our dog guide instructors for assistance. It is important that you start off by being as successful as possible. It is very important that the new dog be patterned to the routes in a step by step process. If you work long, complicated routes be sure that you show the dog the route and work through a building process rather then assuming that the dog will learn it the first time out. It is also important that you teach the dog a few routes very well rather then jumping all over the place from the start. Generally handlers that have three consistent routes find it easier for the dog to acclimate and perform well.

The most common errors that a new handler may make when they return home are. 1. The handler does not know their routes well. 2. The handler is not giving the dog enough work.3. The handler has not kept up with the counter conditioning and continued exposure to normal distractions, both animals and food. 4. The handler is not being consistent with the dog in the household, therefore reinforcing poor behavior instead of positive ones.

You should not take the dog to a large, overwhelming, welcome home party or other gathering in the first few days. This can be very stressful to the dog. Initially you also should not leave the dog alone for long periods of time. When you do begin to leave the dog alone after a couple days, do so for only a few minutes at a time at first, just like we did in class, to ensure the dog is being quiet. This should not be done until the dog has had a chance to settle in and become comfortable in its new environment.

Ideally you should chose a vet before you arrive home with your dog. If not, you can ask your dog-owning friends for recommendations. Some vets offer discounts or even free vet care for working dog guides. It is a good idea to take your dog for a physical exam shortly after you get home, so you and the dog can get acquainted with your vet before you need him. You should also know the nearest 24-hour emergency vet and how you would get there in the event of an emergency, and keep that number handy.

FEED, WATER, AND PARK SCHEDULE

You can add an extra water to your dog's schedule if you would like. The extra amount should be given no later than 8:00 at night. Once your dog is on a consistent park schedule, you can decide to switch over to free water. Some dogs will drink and drink until the bowl is empty no matter how much water is offered. Those dogs should be kept on a watering schedule, otherwise they are very likely to have accidents. When it is hot in the summer time, you may offer water more frequently, but do not let the dog tank up. Ice cubes are a good treat to give your dog in the summer when it is hot - most dogs love them.

You may decide to change your dog's food when you get home. We will give you an 8 pound bag of the food your dog is eating now to take home with you. You do not have to feed your dog a premium dog food; there are many brands that are acceptable. The only ones that we caution you not to feed are the very cheap store brands such as Ol'Roy at Wal-Mart. A good quality dog food will help keep your dog’s coat and skin healthy. Cheaper foods have fillers and not as much nutrtion. Your dog will need to eat more in order to maintain a healthy weight and may empty more frequently. You should continue to feed your dog dry food rather than canned or semi-moist, as dry food helps to keep the teeth clean. If your dog is a picky eater, you can add a little warm water on top of the food to make it more appetizing.

Any diet changes should be made over a period of several days. On the first couple days, the meal should be ¾ the original food and ¼ the new food; then half and half for a couple days; then ¾ the new food and ¼ the old food, then finally feed only the new food. If you plan to change the times of the feedings, change the time by no more than 15 minute increments per day. Remember to allow for time zone differences when you get home.

Whether you want to feed once or twice a day is a personal decision. Often, feeding only one meal a day in the evening can help get a dog on a regular parking schedule if it is not already on one. This is also easier for some people. The disadvantage of feeding once a day is that the dog then has an empty stomach for most of the day. Some dogs may vomit

bile if their stomach is empty; others will be more inclined to scavenge for food. If you would like to feed one meal a day, you could also pre-measure each meal, then remove a handful of food from the evening's meal to feed in the morning. That way the dog would at least have something in its stomach. Remember, if you choose to change your dog's feeding schedule, this will also change the park schedule, sometimes in unpredictable ways, so be ready.

You should not feed commercial dog biscuits, as these are fattening and will cause your dog to gain weight. You also must never feed table scraps to your dog. If your dog is allowed to eat human food, it will be far more likely to beg at the table and scavenge off the floor. Allowing your dog to become obese is one of the most detrimental things you can do as a dog guide owner. We take this problem very seriously, as it is a form of abuse. Monitor the weight closely; all dogs are at their ideal weight right now.

You should stick as closely as possible to the park schedule we used here at Guiding Eyes. Your dog must be parked a minimum of 4 times per day, and 5 or 6 is preferable. One schedule that works for many people is to park the dog when they wake up, at noon, at 5:00 or so, and before they go to bed. If your dog is one of those who always parks before he eats, you should keep that in mind. It is unfair to ask a dog to hold it longer than 8 hours at any time. If you plan to change your park schedule, you should do so gradually.

Plan ahead and select a park area at home. Dogs park more readily on grass than on concrete. If you allow your dog to park on grass most of the time, it may then be reluctant to park on concrete when you need it to. It is easy to switch from concrete to grass, but it is more difficult to go the other way.

You must always pick up after your dog. If you dispose of waste promptly, your park area should not smell. Also, picking up after your dog lets you monitor the condition of its health. If you have a fenced in yard with a high enough fence that you plan to use for supervised play, you should park the dog on leash before playing with it in the yard. It is good for the image of guide dog users when you are seen picking up after your dog. You can get baggies at your local grocery store in the produce department or there are several companies online that sell baggies. You should get in the habit of stuffing your pockets, purse, etc. with baggies, as you never know when you might need them.

FREEDOM IN THE HOUSE

When you first bring your dog home, wait until it has adjusted to a regular park schedule before giving it freedomin the house. Your dog should be confined or attached to you until the dog’s park schedule becomes regular. You may use either a crate or a tiedown. It will be good for the dog if you pick a place for it that it knows it belongs, such as in a corner of your bedroom or in the living room. Dogs like to be where they can see what's going on, but it should also be out of the way enough that the dog can have some peace and quiet. You can let your dog have a towel or blanket to sleep on as long as it doesn't begin to chew it.

You can begin letting the dog loose in one room at a time, following a successful park time so that you know accidents are unlikely to happen. You should dog-proof your house before you let the dog loose - pick up food items on low shelves, cover or conceal garbage cans, etc. If you have appropriate chew toys for your dog, it will be less likely to chew something inappropriate. If your dog does pick up something it shouldn't, tell the dog to Leave It, then replace it with a chew toy and praise. Accidents may happen. If they do, put the dog back on tiedown for a while and clean the spot thoroughly with either club soda, vinegar, or a commercial cleaner. A thorough job is important; otherwise the dog will return to the same spot and go there again.

Gradually the dog can be free in the house. If there are other people living in the house, especially children, make sure they understand the importance of keeping the doors to the outside shut at all times. Once the dog is reliable in the house it is still a good idea to continue to have it with you in the same room that you are in. At this point it will be off leash but the dog should be easily located when needed and not wandering into other floors of the house or rooms unattended. This way you will be able to monitor your dog’s behavior and prevent it from doing behaviors that are not acceptable. It also teaches the dog that it can have freedom but that it still must check in with you. When the handler moves from room to room the dog will most likely follow unless they are in a deep sleep.

Your dog should never be off leash outside in an unfenced area. If you want your dog to be able to play ball or swim, you may use a long line. You can let your dog off leash in a fenced-in yard, as long as the fence is high enough and you stay out with the dog. Electric fences are not practical, because they do not prevent your dog from being stolen or getting attacked by another dog.

OTHER PETS AT HOME

If you have another dog, you should introduce the two dogs on leash in a neutral area (to prevent your other dog from becoming territorial or pocessive). If you are keeping your dog guide on a tie down, make sure it is in a place where the other dog in the house cannot entice it to play. Or if you use a crate you can alternate one dog in and one dog out until they can be free together.

Cats usually hide for a few days when a new dog comes home. They can take care of themselves and will come out in their own time. If you have a cat, you must remember to put the food up on a counter or in a room inaccessible to the dog. The same goes for the litterbox. Your litterbox should at the very least be covered and face the wall. Ideally, it should be located in a room blocked off with a cat door or a baby gate with a hole cut in the plastic mesh that is only big enough for the cat. If your dog gets overly pushy with the cat, the cat will probably tell it off by spitting and smacking the dog. They may scratch the dog a little but will not hurt it seriously.

Pets such as birds, rodents, ferrets, etc. are seen by the dog as prey, and should be kept out of reach and not introduced to the dog.

EXTREME TEMPERATURES

Use common sense when working in extreme heat or cold. Remember that Labs are much more sensitive to heat than to cold. Any time you are uncomfortably hot outside, your dog probably is too. In extreme heat (over 90 degrees), you should not work your dog more than 10 minutes without stopping to cool off. You may give a little water while working a very hot route, or step in an air-conditioned store for a few minutes. Working too long in extreme heat can cause heat stroke or heat exhaustion, and possibly even death. In the summer it is best to work in the cooler mornings and evenings.

In the winter, many areas put salt on the sidewalk to prevent ice from forming. This salt can be irritating to dogs' feet. After a walk in a salted area, wipe the dog's feet with a towel to remove the salt. If a dog is very sensitive to salt (hops, dances at corners, tries to run across it), or too hot pavement, you can utilize the booties that have been issued to you during your training.

In hot climates the corners at crossings can cause dogs to pad their feet. If your dog is not wearing booties, stop in the shade of the building line, wait and listen for traffic. When you know the signal will change in your favor, work to the down curb, praise and then cross.

CONTACT WITH GUIDING EYES

We will call you for an initial contact 3-4 weeks after you leave Guiding Eyes, to give you time to settle in and see how you are doing as a team. We will make a second contact 6-8 weeks after you go home.

You may call us at any time. The instructor's phone number is (914) 243-2201. If you call that number, you will get a call back from the instructor on phone call duty. Instructors rotate through phone call duty; we are each on for a week at a time, and whoever is on when you call is the one who will call you back. Usually, if you are having a problem, we will first give you some suggestions over the phone and ask you to implement them. If you try the suggestions and they do not work, we will then send someone out to work with you at home, either an instructor or one of our field reps.

We have given you the tools to solve all the common problems guide dog users experience. Please try to work through problems at home as much as you can. If you are truly at a loss, feel you have tried everything you can think of and your problem is only getting worse, call the instructor's phone.

ACCESS RIGHTS

The law guarantees you the right to have your guide dog with you everywhere you go that the general public is invited to go. There are, however, certain exceptions to this law. The law does not cover places that the general public is not invited to, such as hospital operating rooms. It also does not cover private homes (though it DOES cover rental properties). The law also says if your dog is dirty or very ill behaved, you can be asked to leave, and the property manager will be well within his rights to ask you that.

There are also some places that are not specifically covered by the law, but that common sense should tell you are not good places to bring a dog. These include very loud rock concerts, amusement parks (if you plan to ride any rides), fireworks displays, ski lifts, demolition derbies, and the like. Zoos are a gray area. Many zoo officials are concerned that the presence of a dog, which is a predator species, could cause a panic among the prey species in the zoos. As a result, some states have laws barring guide dogs from entry. Many zoos have kennels where you can leave your dog for the day; you should call before you go and know the laws of your state.

You should also know that you are legally responsible for any damages caused by your dog. If your dog has an accident, you have to clean it up (though the great majority of stores and restaurants will clean it up for you). If your dog chews something in a hotel room, you will have to pay for it. In some states, the law still gives the proprietor of a business establishment the right to ask you to muzzle your dog if it appears to be a threat to the public safety. If you refuse, you can be asked to leave. The Halti serves the same purpose as a muzzle; you should carry it with you at all times and know the laws of your state.

The most common places guide dog users are denied access are Chinese restaurants and taxis. If you are denied access anywhere, you should stay calm and confident. Let the staff person who challenges you know that this is a dog guide and dog guides legally have access rights. If the person still persists, remain calm, but you may raise your voice slightly so that other patrons (most of whom will know about dog guide laws) realize what is going on, and ask to speak to the manager. You should carry around your GEB ID card and access laws handbook at all times, so you can bring it out in the event of a confrontation.

If the person still insists on refusing you access, ask if you can use their phone to call the authorities so they can explain the access laws. If they refuse, ask for the nearest payphone and the street address of the establishment that is denying you access. Also, get the name of the employee who is responsible. You should contact either the manager or the owner of the store (whichever one you didn't talk to in person) and let them know what happened. You must remain calm. If you start yelling and making threats, you can be thrown out legitimately.

If a business persists in refusing access, you can contact Guiding Eyes and we will be happy to send them a letter on our letterhead explaining the dog guide access laws. Guiding Eyes does not become involved in lawsuits over access issues. You will have to

proceed on your own if you want to file a formal complaint. Call the police department or D.A.'s office and tell them what you want to do. They will send you the forms you need. If you need help filling them out, your local chapter of the ACLU or Legal Aid Society may be able to help you. In addition feel free to contact our Manager of Consumer Outreach and Support here at Guiding Eyes. Becky will be able to give you some good advice and some possible suggestions of what direction to head in. Denied access is a difficult issue and each individual dog guide handler will deal with it in their own way.

YOUR DOG GUIDE AND THE PUBLIC When working your dog, always be aware that people are watching, whether you know it or not. Try to be discreet and quiet when correcting your dog. People will notice especially if you raise your voice or appear frustrated with your dog. Keep your physical handling down to a minimum as this can draw attention. They are much more likely not to approach you if they see you praise your dog after it resumes responding appropriately. Attempt to incorporate food reward when you are able as the public shows a very positive response to this. Giving a dog food is something that all people can relate to, whether you are a dog person or non dog person.

Sometimes people call Guiding Eyes to report that someone is abusing their dog guide. In most cases, the person has simply misunderstood a correction. If someone calls to complain about you, we will notify you of the complaint and ask you to explain it. We give you the benefit of the doubt in most cases. If we receive numerous complaints, and they all say the same thing, we will most likely send someone out to investigate, with or without notifying you in advance. This is very rare.

If someone offers you help and you don't need any, tell them you don't need any help, and thank them politely. Try not to get offended; if you are disrespectful, people will be less likely to offer to help the next person, who may want it.

If people want to pet your dog, it is your choice whether or not you let them. We strongly recommend that you do not, and most dog guide handlers would prefer that no dog guide users ever allow the public to pet dog guides. It is very easy for dog guides to become people friendly, and start working from person to person hoping to get petted. If you do allow people to pet your dog, have it sit and set down the harness handle, and insist that it remain calm throughout. If you do not want your dog petted, just say no politely, and if you have time, explain why. It never hurts to educate.

A FEW MORE IMPORTANT THINGS

No one else, sighted or blind, should ever work your dog guide. You have worked very hard to get where you are with your dog guide, and you do not want to jeopardize that relationship by letting someone else confuse your dog.

You should never take anyone sighted guide while working your dog and expect the dog to clear both of you. You also cannot expect your dog to clear carts, wheeled luggage, strollers, etc. that you are pulling on your right side.

Everything we have done here is for a reason. Keep it up when you go home, and you will be successful. Do obedience daily to maintain control. Correct and rework errors. Work the dog daily to maintain and solidify its work pattern. Groom the dog daily to keep it clean and healthy. Monitor the dog’s weight.

GUIDING EYES-RECOMMENDED TOYS

Most commercial dog toys are not safe for dogs, particularly when used without supervision. The only toys Guiding Eyes recommends are sterilized or natural bones, Kongs, Nylabones, and large, hard rubber bails. All of these toys should be checked periodically to ensure that the dog is not tearing them to pieces and swallowing the pieces. Toys such as stuffed animals and tennis balls are acceptable only when play retreiving. Rawhide, pig's ears, cow hooves, and other such chew toys can be dangerous if the dog chews off small sharp pieces and swallows them.

We have various pet supply catalogs here at Guiding Eyes. They all have 1-800 numbers and websites.

Chapter 44: The Dog Guide Team Working on a Platform

Working a dog guide on a platform can be potentially dangerous if the handler is not aware of some key concepts. First and foremost the dog guide handler must be oriented and patterned to their particular platform. Although there are some universal concepts that pertain to all platforms, it remains extremely important that the handler learn their specific platform. Some important elements are:

• Is the platform single or double sided?• Is there a noticeable tactile strip on the platform edge; is the strip consistent throughout?• Are the entrances and exits easily located, do they remain open at all hours or only during key time periods?• Is there a ticket attendant in the station who could provide assistance if needed?• Are there stairs, escalators and or elevators in the given station?• Is there a consistent size gap between the platform edge and train itself?• How frequently do the trains arrive and how long do they remain stopped before leaving the station?• Does the station have turnstiles or other types of exits?

If the platform is one that is familiar to the handler they can pattern the dog easily to the key locations. When doing this, it is important that the handler do a dry run first by going to the station when it is quiet, without a lot of pedestrian flow.

• Show the dog the keys entry and exit points.• Work both to and from the station as if going to and coming from work.• Show the dog any stairs, escalators, etc. that are important and crucial to the route.• If needed take along a sighted friend to help with the first few trips.• Bring a folding cane to help with identifying key points.• Use clicker and food reward to help with land marking.

If the handler has moved and is learning a totally new platform:

• Contact an O&M instructor or dog guide instructor to help with orientation.• Orient and acclimate the dog during low traffic flow periods.• Utilize a back chaining method to build drive to the key target locations (go to the target location first and then work back to it in small increments).• Work the route both coming and going.

Since dogs are goal oriented it is important to help the dog understand where it needs to go when entering and exiting the station. This is valuable in preventing the handler from getting into unsafe situations due to meandering on the platform itself and losing their orientation. Most accidents occur when the handler has become disoriented. In these cases the handler generally has gotten ahead of the dog or turned abruptly and is now facing the wrong side of the platform.

• When entering onto a platform avoid unnecessary walking. Locate your destination as quickly as possible. It is usually safest to wait for the incoming train car near the entrance to the platform.• If the platform is double sided, the dog guide handler should always work with the dog on the edge side of the platform. This allows for the dog to maintain a solid buffer zone between the edge and its handler.• If the platform is single sided the handler should exit the train and make contact with the nearest wall. If the layout is such that the handler must be on the edge side, the team should shoreline as close to the wall as possible. An example of this would be if the exit is to the right after exiting the train.• Avoid walking when trains are entering and exiting the station as it can become very loud and disorienting to any traveler.• Wait a few moments for the crowd to thin before working down the platform. Pedestrian flow is heavy as people are entering and exiting train cars. By waiting, it helps by giving the dog more room to negotiate the platform.• The first car generally has the lightest volume of people but also is usually the farthest from the exit.

It is also very important that the handler enter and exit the train car swiftly. In most subways the handler can work the dog on and off. However, on commuter rails the gap is wide and if the dog is worked across it would have to jump. Many handlers would be thrown off balance by this and may risk slipping through the gap. In these situations the

handler is advised to work the dog up the opening, locate the side of the door and take a giant step in. Train cars can vary and the handler may either have to step up or down. Once inside the handler should make their way to a seat. The handler should not linger in between cars as this is unsafe. In addition the handler should not move between cars while the train is in motion. If it is a subway car the handler should attempt to locate a seat directly to the left or right of the door entrance. If on a commuter train car, then the handler should locate a seat as close to the exit door as possible. Many commuter cars have seats facing each other near the door. This will allow more room for the dog as well.

If on a subway car and no seats are available the handler may have to stand and hold onto a pole. The handler should face the door they plan to exit. This way the dog will not have to turn and locate the opening. The handler should have the dog sit between their legs to take up the least amount of room. Then the handler should gently wrap the dog’s tail around the dog’s body and keep it in place by holding a foot gently against it. This will help to keep the dog from being stepped on.

While riding the commuter train the dog should be backed into the seat opening first prior to the handler sitting down. This will allow the dog an easy exit when it is time to get off the train. The dog can be allowed to lie down but the handler will need to pay close attention to what the dog’s head and mouth are doing. If a given dog has the propensity to scavenge then having the dog sit is a better choice. The handler should always remain in contact with the dog via the leash and not allow the dog to wander over to other passengers.

Many big cities such as NYC have training courses for people utilizing the platform and train cars. Contact your local department of transportation for more specific details

Chapter 45: Working your dog guide in NYC. What to expect. How to get the most out of the experience.

First time students as well as returning retrains will have the opportunity to work their dog guide in the NYC environment. Many students have questions about what to expect during this experience. The NYC workout is designed to give dog guide teams the experience of working in a busy metropolitan environment. The workout is not meant as a sight seeing trip to visit all the desired land marks in NYC but rather an opportunity to receive first hand experience of working in a very congested environment.

Students in training will be working with a private instructor on this day. Generally the NYC or Manhattan trip as it is referred to occur on the Wednesday of the third week of class. By this point the teams have worked a number of workouts with their new dog guides. Both the regular class instructors and supervisor will work students as well as a few guest instructors. GEB prides itself in being able to offer this experience to all

students regardless of their home environment. However the experience is not mandatory and if a student will not utilize this type of travel or if they have a strong aversion they can opt. to do other types of workouts on this day.

The day is divided up into two groups. There is a morning session and an afternoon session. The student will have approximately two hours to accomplish their workout. The students in training are not expected to know the area but should follow the normal principles of safe travel. The instructors will speak with each student and design a workout that will meet their own needs as a team. One student may prefer to do a lot of walking while another may want to experience the bus and subway. Public transportation is readily available and will be incorporated on some level during the session. Instructors will have already spoken about safe bus and subway travel in previous lectures.

The workout can often be dictated by the weather. In cold weather the booties may be needed. In very hot weather the workouts will involve stopping off someplace to temporally cool off. Both the dog and student’s welfare will be the first priority. There will be distractions. Be prepared and have on hand; training treats, booties, halti, pick up bags and clicker.

The morning group’s destination will be a restaurant on the Upper East Side. The students will be able to choose from a variety of menu options; however no alcohol can be consumed. The afternoon group will be driven down in the GEB van. All of the students will have lunch together. The morning group will return in the van while the afternoon group prepares to work.

The morning group will have experienced the metro north commuter railroad on the way in. The afternoon group will experience it on the return trip. The train ride is approximately one hour long and this train line runs along the Hudson River. The train will enter and exit out of Grand Central Terminal which is located in mid town on the east side at 42nd street. On the train the dogs will be backed into the seats in order to make exiting easier. The train departs from and returns to the Croton Harmon train station which is located in Northern Westchester. GEB is approximately 15-20 minutes from this location.

NYC is broken up into neighborhoods. The students will be working primarily in mid town on the east side. This area of NYC has a solid grid system making it easy to read traffic flows. Avenues run North to South while streets run West to East. Lexington Avenue runs downtown while Third Avenue runs uptown. This helps immensely in reading your traffic back to front or front to back. The curbs are however not consistent and although most of them are ramps you may come upon actual curbs as well. Some avenues are narrower and more congested then others and some have a larger population of pet dogs then others.

The new handlers will gain more experience in moving laterally around people, objects and pet dogs. The experience is meant to be a positive one and show the new handlers their potential as a team. Try not to view this workout as a test or to put high

expectations on yourself and your dog. Look at it as another workout to help you as a team build confidence in each other. There are a variety of working environments and they all offer different challenges. Utilize the day as a learning experience and to have the opportunity to work through a variety of travel situations.

Chapter 46: Dog Massage

You will have an opportunity to meet with guest instructor Lynn Vaughan, LMT. She is a licensed massage therapist with a private practice in bodywork for animals, who will be showing you how to massage your dogs. This will also be an anatomy lesson.

Why is this important? Massage can help muscles that tighten from physical activity and stress. In guide dogs, this is especially helpful around the harness and collar.  Massage also provides stress reduction, which has shown to improve job performance. It’s a wonderful way to bond with your dog... and to learn how to tell if there are unusual lumps or other things amiss with your dog. In short, massage can benefit your dog's overall well-being...your relationship...and awareness of your dog's health.

This hands on session will be conducted upstairs in the front or old living room, which is to the right of the dining room. You will be on the floor and Lynn will come around to each dog to say hello before she begins the session. You can use pillows or cushions if you need to. 

The dogs enjoy this lecture most of all!

Lynn's instructional DVD, called Bodywork for Dogs, with an easy to follow audio track, is available through Guiding Eyes at a discounted price. For more information, go to www.animalshealing.com.

Chapter 47: Graduation Rehearsal

The graduation ceremony will take place in Alumni Hall which is the largest room on campus. Folding chairs will be set up in the room the afternoon before graduation. To the right is the piano as you enter the room; along the far left wall is where the graduates will be seated. Saturday morning, we will go over the program and will do several rounds of clapping. Many dogs are initially startled by the clapping, but will usually settle down. Following the graduation practice, we will review the contents of your going-home packet. Lunch will be at 11:30 and everyone will leave their dogs in their rooms. Many puppy raisers will arrive early, and it is best for all concerned if they do not see the dogs they raised until graduation. We advise you to stay in your room after lunch. Leave your dog in the room if you need to leave the room for anything. At 1:00, we will announce a park time. At 1:15, we will begin knocking on your doors and assembling you and your dogs (in harness) in the hall in the order that you will be seated at graduation. While we are

doing this we will be showing a slideshow to the audience comprised of the photos taken of you and your guide dogs during class. Remember everyone will get a copy of this sent to them after class.We will escort you sighted guide, one at a time into Alumni Hall, pausing at the entrance for photos. Once at your chair, you will remain standing in front of your chair with your dog sitting at your left side. When all the students are in, the supervisor will announce the class and read off your names one at a time. When your name is read, you can sit down and quietly position your dog under your chair. Please remember to remain standing until your name is called. We will be in the front row to help you if necessary.

We will have copies of Braille and large print graduation programs so you know the order of events. The ceremony includes the class speakers, a presentation by the Canine Development Center, and recognition of each puppy raiser. Class speakers will stand in front of their chairs. Later in the ceremony, the instructors will hand you your diplomas. You can remain seated for this. There may be graduates with dog guides in the audience, and there will also be puppies brought in by the CDC. These puppies will not be on the floor.

The graduation ceremony is streamed live on YouTube and will be archived on the Guiding Eyes web site for you to view and share later.

After the graduation is over, you should remain seated and take off your dog's harness. The puppy raisers will come over to you. Your dog will be very excited to see them. When the dog recognizes the raiser they will often become very excitable and behave quite differently then what you are used to. Try not to be alarmed, keep the leash as loose as possible and let the dog visit and interact. We only ask that you be mindful not to let the dog jump up. Try to stay relaxed and understand that the dog will begin to calm down after a few minutes. If you feel you are having trouble with your dog you can call out to an instructor who can act as a mediator between your dog and the raisers.

After graduation we will have a room set up for you and your puppy raisers to have photos taken together if you desire. We ask that you spend time visiting with your puppy raisers. They put a lot of time and work into this dog, and this may be their last chance to interact. If you have family or friends coming, please do not go off with them and exclude the puppy raisers. Many raisers have travelled long distances and bring the dog's puppy photos or favorite toys.

A kennel tour will begin after all photos are completed. You may go if you like, but your dog will remain in the room. The main reason is that your dog has been out of the kennel environemnt for some time and we don’t want to cross contaminate any viruses or bacterias back to your dog. If your puppy raiser does not want to go on the tour, please stay with them - we will take you on a private kennel tour later if you like. Most people have left the school by 4:00 pm. If your puppy raisers would like to take you out to dinner, let the instructors know and leave your dog in your room.

CHAPTER 48: PILLING & CLEANING EARS & TEETH

EAR CLEANING

Most Ear infections are caused by bacteria and yeast. Labrador’s ear flaps hang down and air does not circulate in them as well as pointed ear dogs like shepards. This creates a warm, moist environment where yeast and bacteria can thrive.

Signs of ear infections include scratching or pawing at the ears, head shaking, very hot ears, brown or black goop found on the gauze pads when cleaning, and a bad smell coming from the ears. If you notice any of these signs, check your dogs ears and see a veterinarian As Soon As Possible.

We use a gentle cleaning solution that is drying and non irritating to clean our dog’s ears. The cleaner can irritate the ear in a small number of dogs . Unless your dog has frequent ear infections, the ears should be cleaned no more than once a month but should be checked frequently. You can use prepared solution or make up your own.

When using the solution, squeeze a small amount of fluid onto a non sterile gauze pad. Wrap the pad around your finger and gently wipe the inside flap of the ear and down into the canal as far as your finger goes to remove dirt. Because of the bend in the ear canal, you cannot reach the eardrum. Usually, the dog will shake its head after you have finished massaging its ear. This is normal and actually helps move debris out of the ear.

Do not stick the tip of the solution nozzle in your dog’s ear. Your dog could shake its head suddenly and hurt its ear with the nozzle. Secondly, if your dog has an ear infection, the tip could get dirty and transfer the infection to the other ear. The only way to prevent that is to wipe the nozzle with an alcohol soaked gauze pad between ears.

PILLING YOUR DOG

On occasion, your dog may become ill and need to be treated with medication in the form of a pill. We will practice giving your dogs Brewers Yeast tablets, which taste good but have no nutritional value. To pill your dog, it is best to have the dog sitting next to you or between your knees. Every dog is different. You can try different methods and learn what works best for you both.

Take the pill in your right hand, and put your left hand over the dog's muzzle with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other. Some people can squeeze just behind the back teeth on the upper jaw, and the dog's mouth will pop open. Some prefer to use the thumb or pinky of the right hand and gently press down on the front of bottom jaw to open. When it does, stick the pill in as far as it will go on the back of the dog's tongue,

then quickly clamp the dog's mouth closed with your left hand so the dog can't spit the pill back out.

You can blow gently on the dog's nose or massage its throat to encourage it to swallow. You may feel your dog swallow or you can keep one finger gently in front of the dog’s mouth. His tongue may come out from between its teeth a couple of times. That means it has swallowed the pill.

It is best to pill your dog on a hard surface, so you can hear if the pill falls out and hits the floor.

TEETH CLEANING

Brushing your dogs teeth will help keep their teeth and gums healthy, and is important to your dog’s overall health. You should only use toothpaste made for dogs.

Your dogs are not used to having their teeth cleaned and may resist at first. You can start by getting your dog comfortable with having you handle their muzzle and gently slide your fingers into their mouth. Do this for a few days and then try a gauze pad.

We will practice using a gauze pad. Take a gauze pad and wrap it around your finger. Hold the dog's mouth open with your right hand and slide the gauze pad in with your left hand. Wipe the teeth gently, praise the dog in a calm voice, then withdraw the pad.

Right now you are just trying to get the dog used to having something in its mouth. You can then progress to using a soft finger brush or toothbrush.

Chapter 49: Booties

Seasons can bring with them intense cold or heat which can affect the environment guide dogs work in. We will be going over how to handle these environments in the going home lecture. Extreme temperatures can cause discomfort to the dog such as salt laid down for ice in the winter or hot metal under footings on sidewalks in the summer. Curbs especially are uncomfortable since the dogs may have to stand there for lengths of time. Dogs can actually begin shorting curbs if they have caused discomfort in the past.

We will be having everyone practice fitting a set of booties on your dogs. They have all worn them in training. The booties fit snuggly and if put on correctly have minimal risk of actually falling off the dogs and getting lost. The dog can walk normally and securely from the onset. However in addition to the fit there is extra rubber grip on the bottom of the booties which provides improved traction. With the addition of the traction many dogs may feel the urge to run, gallop or even leap up in these booties. The booties we will be practicing with are gently worn sets. If your instructor & you mutually decide that this is a piece of equipment your team should have, you will be issued a set to take home with you. However, if issued, the expectation is that you will be

practicing having your dog wear them in class. We will start with short routes such as to the dining room or vans & then move up to wearing them out on route. In the event of inclement weather, such as extreme heat or cold, all students may be using the booties.

For these reasons it will be important that the dogs occasionally receive exposure in order to continue feeling comfortable wearing and working with them on. Most dogs acclimate to them fairly well.

1. It is easiest to lay the dog down on its side and fit all the booties at the same time. By fitting all at the same time the dog is able to balance its weight and help itself create a more even walking rhythm from the start

2. Be sure that the booties are secured snuggly & that the dew claw is not exposed3. Once fitted allow the dog to stand up. Have your food reward ready 4. Now have the dog begin to walk. Be sure to keep their head up which prevents

them from grabbing at the booties. Signal with a “lets Go”5. When you walk with the dog and observe a relaxed gait, reward6. Repeat reward for any walking with a relaxed gait.7. Start in Alumni Hall and then go out and work in the hallway8. Allow the dog plenty of room to walk out9. Again, reward any relaxed gait.10. Use plenty of verbal praise as well11. At then end of the session, remove the bootie while the dog is standing

Instructors: Students should have their clickers with them. If needed, students can use them.

Chapter 50: The Halti

The Halti is a head collar that fits around the dog’s neck and muzzle. You may or may not receive this collar, depending on the needs of your team. Your instructor will work with you. The Halti provides safe and humane control, and enables you to more easily feel the movements of the dog’s head. We NOT do use a snap and release correction when using the halti, just a gentle pull and release.

We will discuss 1. Orienting yourself to the Halti, 2. Getting your dog used to the Halti, and3. Working your dog with the Halti.

1. Orienting yourself to the Halti: · The Halti has many straps, and can be confusing.

Start with small metal thumb clip. This clip is attached to the safety strap, and affixes to your dog’s working collar.

· Follow the safety strap up to a metal ring. The safety strap affixes to the ring with a slip knot.

· The other strap in this ring is the nose loop. The nose loop feeds up through a second metal ring, and then opens up to slide onto the dog’s muzzle.

· With one hand on each side of the nose loop, slide your hands back along the cheek straps, to find the neck loop. The neck loop is short on the one side and long on the other, each ending with a plastic buckle. It is adjustable, and fits snugly high on the dog’s neck, just behind the ears, as tight as a belt or watch. The neck loop buckle will not fasten if inside out or twisted.

· Take some time to become familiar with the parts of the head collar. Have fun and test yourself – jumble it all up and try again!

2. Getting your dog used to the Halti: All dogs have worked with the Halti, but if it’s been a while, start slowly to get it used to it again. Do positive repetitions with food reward to build a happy experience, making the dog look forward to wearing it. Repeat these happy exposures to keep your dog used to the Halti.

· If you have our stuffed dogs, practice with them first. · Place the nose loop over the dog’s nose, praise, give a treat, and take it off. Repeat a

few times. When you take the Halti off, do not praise the dog. We want the dog to be happy with the Halti going on, not coming off. Dogs will easily build a positive emotional response to wearing the Halti. Halti on is fun. Halti off is boring!

· Now add the neck loop. Place the nose loop over the muzzle, treat again, and then slide your hands back on the cheek straps to find the neck loop, and buckle it high on the neck behind the ears. Treat, praise, and remove. Repeat, with much positive praise and food reward with each step.

· Now put it on, buckle the neck strap, clip the safety clip to the dog’s working collar, and clip the leash to the lowest ring, the one that the safety strap connects to. Give a treat. The weight of the leash pulls down on the dog’s muzzle a little, so your dog may need to get used to this again.

· Now heel the dog a bit, keeping the leash slack. If you feel tension, that means the Halti is squeezing the dog’s muzzle. If the dog is pulling, have the dog sit, loosen up.

· If take off the halti without unclipping the leash, the dog will be free! First reclip leash to working collar, then unsnap safety snap and unsnap neck loop to take off halti.

3. Working your dog with the Halti. · When the leash is clipped to the Halti, it clips under the dog’s chin, forward from the

neck, and you’ve lost some of that length. You’ll need to hold the leash under the harness with a smaller loop.

· Be sure there is plenty of slack in the leash. If you feel tension, the Halti is moving your dog’s head.

· When heeling your dog in the Halti, keep the leash loose. If the dog pulls or paws at the Halti, redirect with a sit, then praise.

· If your dog is sitting and pawing, redirect with a let’s go, and change location. If your dog is fussing a lot, back up a step and repeat the positive exposure with food reward.

· Reward your dog whenever your dog is calm with the halti. Use praise, food reward, and physical praise, whatever works best for your dog.

· When removing the Halti remember to reconnect the leash to the live ring on the working collar first.

· A correction with the Halti is simply gently pulling the leash to move the dog’s head, then release, and redirect the dog with a command for a different behavior.

· Very important – we do not use the traditional snap and release correction when clipped to the Halti. This can cause injury.

· Avoid using the Halti during extreme heat or for long periods of time. Dogs cannot effectively pant to fully cool themselves down with the Halti on.

· Do not use the Halti while your dog is eating, drinking, parking. · Do use the Halti when you need some extra control or to prevent sniffing in places

with food distractions.

A Halti may look like a muzzle to some people – it is not. A side note about muzzles and the public: While the law does not address muzzles specifically, a well behaved & groomed guide dogs are allowed public access by law. Poorly-behaved & unkempt dogs may be asked to leave the premises. According to the Department of Justice, asking someone to muzzle a well-behaved guide dog is in essence denying someone free access as defined by the ADA. Fear of said dog is not justification for requiring a muzzle for right of access. That being said, a Halti may look like a muzzle, and if you need to momentarily concede the point for access, a Halti can be used.

Summary: Keep yourself and your dog acclimated to the Halti. Go slowly and happily if you need to reacquaint your dog. Leave plenty of slack, don’t use for prolonged periods or in extreme heat, and never snap and release for correction. This sums up the Halti lecture.