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How To sew a Scarf, cHoker and apron paTTern: Free Collection of Designs for Sewing Accessories

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Waterfall Scarf

raw edge Flower Choker

Mosaic Silk Scarf

Zigzag Apron

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sewing made modern.

photoS by joe hAnCoCk

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How To sew a Scarf, cHoker, and apron paTTern: Free Collection of Designs for Sewing Accessories

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Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document

1 Waterfall Scarf ...........................................32 Raw Edge Flower Choker .....................53 Mosaic Silk Scarf .......................................74 Zigzag Apron .............................................9

com

Photo by Larry Stein

edItor Amber EdendesIgners Charlene Tiedemann and Jocelin Damien

ILLustratIon Ann Sabin SwansonPhotograPhy Joe Hancock (unless otherwise noted)

ProjeCt desIgners

Tricia Waddell, Erin Snethen, and Melanie Testa

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Sew Daily and Stitch magazine are not responsible for any liability arising from errors, omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed cau-tiously, especially with respect to technical information. Interweave grants per-mission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.

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Accessories are some of the best projects to make. Consider the pluses:1. Accessories are QUICK TO MAKE!2. Great way to update and refresh the wardrobe!3. Little or NO FITTING required!

So really, what’s not to love about making accessories?

We’ve found sewing accessories to be so popular that we are bringing back the Sewing Accessories e-book with some new additions.

We have included two new projects: the Raw Edge Flower Choker and the Zigzag Apron. In addition, you will also be getting the gorgeous Waterfall and Mosaic Silk Scarves. Any one of these projects is absolutely ador-able and just perfect to sew for summer. You will find the complete instructions in the e-book, so I hope that you will enjoy this free download and share with your friends.

Happy stitching,

amber edenEditor, Stitch magazine and SewDaily.

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For explanations oF terms + techniques used

click here For our sewing Basics online

Other SupplieS— Matching high-quality polyester or

silk thread — Fabric pencil or tailor’s chalk— Silk needle for sewing machine

(consult your manual)— Handsewing needle

FiniShed SizeAbout 66" (168 cm) long x 17" (43 cm) wide (at center)

nOteS— A subtly contrasting color of thread

can be used instead of a matching

by tricia waddell

Douppioni silk gets a creative texture treatment in this simple scarf featuring shirred and ruffled edges. The shirring is made by gathering the scarf both vertically and horizontally, allowing you to sculpt the ends in unique ways.

Fabric— 1 yd (91.5 cm) douppioni silk

thread to accentuate the shirring on the ends of the scarf.

cut Fabric + FiniSh SeamS1 Cut two pieces of douppioni silk, each 36" (91.5 cm) long x 18" (45.5 cm) wide.2 Attach the two fabric pieces along the short ends with a slight variation on a traditional lapped seam, according

Waterfall Scarf

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pAge 4 oF 32visit sewdaily.com

to the following instructions. Fold over the short edge of one piece ¾" (2 cm) toward the wrong side; fold over the short edge of the second piece ¾" (2 cm) toward the right side. Overlap the folded edges as shown in figure 1, so that the right sides of both pieces are facing up (the raw edges will be hidden); pin the pieces together. On each side of the scarf, edgestitch along the clean folded edge to attach the pieces together (figure 2). Press flat.3 Now that you have the finished scarf length, it’s time to finish the outside border of the scarf. Fold over ¼" (6 mm) on one long side and press, then fold over another ¼" (6 mm) and press. Edgestitch the hem. Repeat the entire step on the remaining long edge and on both short ends of the scarf. Press all hems.

create Shirred edgeS4 Using a fabric pencil or tailor’s chalk and a straightedge, mark a line across the width of the scarf, 12" (30.5 cm) from one short end. Starting at that line, measure and mark a parallel line every 1" (2.5 cm) toward the short end until you have 2" (5 cm) left at that end of the scarf. Along the line farthest from the end, mark off every 4" (10 cm), and then mark vertical stitch lines to the end of the scarf at each of these marks. You will have marked a checkerboard of 10 horizontal lines and 3 vertical lines (figure 3). Repeat the entire step at the other short end of the scarf. 5 Using basting stitches (3.0 to 4.0 mm), stitch along each marked horizontal stitch line, leaving long thread tails on each end; do not backtack and be careful to avoid stitching over the thread tails! Repeat to stitch the 3 vertical stitch lines. 6 To create the horizontal shirring, grasp the bobbin thread only on the first line of stitching and gently slide the fabric along the thread, toward the center, to gather loosely. Repeat to gather from the opposite end of the same stitch line. When you are happy with the gathers, use a handsewing needle to bring the top threads through to the back and knot securely (use

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a double knot), then trim the ends. Repeat the entire step for all 10 horizontal stitching lines on each scarf end. Note: If the thread breaks, remove the stitches and rebaste along the marked line.7 Now gently gather the 3 vertical lines of stitching on each end, as before, to create interesting sculptural fabric. Adjust the vertical and horizontal shirring, if necessary, until you are pleased with the look. To finish off the thread tails from the vertical stitching, knot and trim the threads along the bottom edge of the scarf. For the thread tails at the top end of the vertical

figure 3

stitching, use a handsewing needle to bring the top thread through to the back, and then securely knot and trim the threads as before.

Optional: For added security, set your machine back to the default length for a straight stitch and stitch directly over each previous stitch line. This will set the shirring in place so that the gathers will not shift.

Tricia Waddell is the former editor in chief of Stitch.When she’s not working she’s sewing.

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Raw Edge Flower Choker

by erin snethen

An elegant accent to any outfit, this choker features silk and sheer scraps in slightly varied hues. Add crystals, buttons, or beads for sparkling flower centers, then attach the flow-ers to a satin ribbon and let the ends drape elegantly down your back.

Fabric— 1⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) silk douppioni— 1⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) silk shantung— 1⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) organza— 1⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) taffeta

Other SupplieS— Matching thread— Five 3⁄8” to ½” (1 to 1.3 cm) beads,

buttons, sew-on crystals, and/or sew-on rhinestones

— 1 yd (91.5 cm) of ½ to 1” (1.3 to 2.5 cm) wide satin ribbon

— Flower templates— Handsewing needle— Water-soluble fabric pen or tailor’s

chalk

FiniShed Size Choker is made to fit the wearer and is adjust-able.

nOteS— Substitute any medium-weight sheers

for the fabrics above.— Get creative! You are welcome to

use the flower templates given, but it’s easy to create your own flower shapes. Change up the sizes and shapes. Whether you like delicate and rounded or oversized and spiky flowers, let your imagination be your guide.

— This choker was created using five layers in varying sizes for each flower.

Feel free to use more or fewer layers to change the overall look. Just be careful about using too many layers because you don’t want to weigh the flowers down too much.

— Try to choose relatively lightweight beads, rhinestones, or crystals for the flower centers so that they don’t cause the flowers to droop and pull away from your neck due to the weight.

cut Out and layer FlOwerS1Use the Small, Medium, and Large Flower templates to cut out twenty-five flowers on the fold, in varying sizes, from the fabrics (alternate fabrics and sizes as desired). You will be layering the pieces to create five layered



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flowers, so keep this in mind when deciding how many of each size flower to cut. The choker shown uses small and medium flowers at the outer edges and all three sizes toward the center for a graduated effect.2Layer the flowers with larger pieces on the bottom, ending with the smaller pieces on top, creating five flowers and grouping the three different sizes as desired (see Step 1). 3Handstitch the layers of one flower together in place, through the center of all layers. Repeat for each of the remaining flowers.4From the underside of one flower, pinch about ¼” (6 mm) of the fabric at the center and twist to create a more three-dimensional shape and create volume in the petals. While holding this fold in place firmly with your fingers, handstitch the fold, taking stitches as necessary to secure the shape. 5To add a little interest and contrast, sew a button, bead, rhinestone, or crystal to the center of each flower.

attach FlOwerS 6Take the satin ribbon and wrap it around your neck, holding the ends together in the back (or have a friend hold it for you). With a water-soluble fabric pen or tailor’s chalk, make a small mark at each end of the area where you would like your flowers to appear. Place the ribbon in front of you, right side up, and handstitch each flower to the satin ribbon as desired, keeping all of the flowers within the marked space. To ensure the flowers are lying flat, tack the flower in multiple sections, attaching them first at the center (where the pinched and twisted fabric is) and then tacking farther out on the petals, if necessary. Keep your stitches hidden by making sure that any tacking does not go all the way through the petal layers. The choker shown has the flowers attached right next to each other, with no space in between; the smaller flowers are placed near the back markings and the larger flowers are placed toward the center.

7Shorten the ribbon to the desired length, making sure you leave enough

place on fold

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extra ribbon for tying the choker. Try it on and make sure the flowers are lying flat along your neck. If not, you may need to take some additional tacking stitches.

erin snethen’s love for designing started as a young child with her grandmother leading the way. It began with handwoven Christmas ornaments and later turned into a fashion design degree from Kansas State. Erin is a technical illustrator for The Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection by day, and she creates simple accessories and gifts by night.

SMALL FLoWer

MeDIUM FLoWer

LArge FLoWer

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Mosaic Silk Scarfby tricia waddell

Create a stunning evening scarf by combining two colors of silk douppioni into a clever mosaic. Sew the mosaic squares to water-soluble stabilizer using metallic thread and you have a unique accessory.

Fabric— 1⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) each of two

complementary colors of 44" (112 cm) wide silk duoppioni

Other SupplieS— Sulky Solvy lightweight, translucent

water-soluble stabilizer (77⁄8" [20 cm] wide, 9 yd [ 8.2 m] roll)

— Glamour Madeira Metallic overlock thread in contrasting or matching color

— Matching Metallic Madeira machine embroidery thread

— Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting mat— Quilt ruler

FiniShed Size8" (20.5 cm) wide x 56" (142 cm) long

nOteS— All seam allowances are ½" (1.3 cm)

unless otherwise noted.






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cut Out + mark Fabric1Cut a handful of 1" (2.5 cm) squares out of one color of silk duoppioni. Cut handfuls of 1" x 2" (2.5 x 5 cm) rectangles, 1" x 3" (2.5 x 7.5 cm) rectangles, and 1" x 4" (2.5 x 10 cm) rectangles out of the second color of silk duoppioni.

2Cut a length of Solvy to the desired length of your finished scarf (the sample shown is 8" [20.5 cm] wide x 56" [142 cm] long). Begin pinning squares and rectangles to the length of Solvy as desired, randomly mixing colors and sizes. Make sure all the fabric pieces are close together (no more than about 1⁄8" [3 mm] apart). To create the angled edge of the scarf, pin the fabric pieces at the same (not opposite) angle on each end so that the scarf will have a triangular shape when the two ends hang together around your neck (figure 1). Once you have all the fabric pieces pinned to the Solvy, you are ready to sew.

Sew Fabric tO Stabilizer3This scarf uses two different threads simultaneously. Thread the heavier overlock thread through the sewing machine needle. Use the lighter weight embroidery thread in the bobbin. This will give you a different textured effect on each side of the scarf.

4Think of the scarf as a giant grid of 1" (2.5 cm) squares. Machine stitch along the entire length of the center of each line of mosaic fabric pieces, removing pins as you go, to secure the fabric to the Solvy. Don’t worry about making your stitch lines perfectly straight—the irregularities are what make this scarf interesting! Backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitch line. If you want fringe, leave long thread tails at the beginning and end of each stitch line.

mosaic silk scarf

8" (20.5 cm)

56 " (142 cm)figure 1

5Machine stitch along the width of each line of mosaic fabric pieces at 1" (2.5 cm) intervals in the center of the mosaic pieces. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitch line.

6Replace the overlock thread in the machine with the machine embroidery thread. Now you have the same thread in the needle as you have in the bobbin. Stitch along the length of each line of mosaic fabric pieces a bit to the left of your original line of stitching. This will help secure the fabric squares together even more. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitch line. If you want fringe, leave long thread tails at either end as you did in Step 4.

waSh Out Stabilizer7Following the manufacturer’s instructions, gently submerge the scarf in water for 30 seconds to 2 minutes. The stabilizer will melt away. Drain your sink and repeat submerging the scarf in clean water. This will ensure that

all of the stabilizer washes out of the fabric, otherwise your scarf will be stiff. Squeeze the water out of the scarf and hang on a drying rack to dry overnight. Untangle any fringe.

FiniShing8Now, don’t be afraid when you return to your scarf in the morning and it’s crinkled and frayed! All it needs is a little steam ironing. Set your iron on the lowest setting for silk fabric and steam iron each mosaic fabric piece flat. Duoppioni silk naturally frays at the edges, so let it do what it wants to do. This will show the contrasting fabric threads. Pull any loose threads along the edges of the fabric mosaic pieces throughout the scarf.

9Cut any fringe to desired length.

Tricia Waddell is the former editor in chief of Stitch.When she’s not working she’s sewing.

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Zigzag Apronby melanie testa

Mix zigzag piecing, hand embroidery, and appliqué for an apron that is fun and functional. The wrap-around ties create flattering shaping for this one-size-fits-all apron to make you the cutest cook in the kitchen.

Fabric— 11⁄3 yd (1.2 m) of main cotton print fabric

(at least 42” [106.5 cm] wide) — ¾ yd (68.5 cm) of complementary

cotton print fabric (at least 42” [106.5 cm] wide)

— 8 × 11” (20.5 × 28 cm) piece of second complementary cotton print fabric for circle appliqué

— 8 × 11” (20.5 × 28 cm) piece of tulle to match circle appliqué fabric

Other SupplieS—Pattern and Circles template—Lightweight fusible interfacing—Matching sewing thread —2 contrasting hanks of embroidery floss—Fabric-marking pen—Handsewing needle—Serger or pinking shears (optional)—Buttonhole foot for sewing machine—Embroidery needle

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FiniShed Size: Waist seam adjustable. 28¾” (73 cm), not including ties; Length 27” (68.5 cm), not including neck strap.

nOteS— All seam allowances are ½” (1.3 cm)

unless otherwise noted.— The Right and Left Back Skirt are the

same piece, so cut the Right Back Skirt, then flip the pattern piece to cut the Left Back Skirt.

cut Out Fabric 1 Using the pattern, mark and cut out all pattern pieces as follows. Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric and mark or snip all notches.Cut from the main cotton print fabric:—1 Bib—1 Front Skirt —1 Right Back Skirt—1 Neck Strap—1 Bib Facing—1 Back Skirt Facing

Cut from the complementary cotton print fabric:—1 Left Back Skirt—1 Left Skirt Appliqué—1 Left Bib Appliqué—1 Neck Strap—1 Back Skirt Facing

Cut from the interfacing:—1 Bib Facing — 2 Neck Strap, trim ½” (1.3 cm) from

all sides— 2 Back Skirt Facing, trim ½” (1.3 cm)

from all sides

2 Cut two rectangles on the bias, one from the main cotton print and one from the complementary cotton print, each measuring 51” (129.5 cm) long × 2” (5 cm) wide. These will create the binding used for the ties and waist finishing. If necessary, cut several strips and stitch them together end to end to get the 51” (129.5 cm) length (see the beginning of Step 3 for instructions on how to seam together).

3 Place the two 51 × 2” (129.5 × 5 cm) rectangles with right sides together, matching up the (short) ends, and stitch together diagonally to create one long strip (see figure A in Binding sidebar in Sewing Basics); trim the seam allowance to ¼” (6 mm) following the stitch line, then press open. Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, then open and fold each raw edge in ½” (1.3 cm) so that the raw edges meet at the fold; press the folds. You now have a long strip of bias binding; set aside.

create aprOn bOdy4 Staystitch (see Stitch Glossary, in Sewing Basics) ¼” (6 mm) from the “zigzag” edge of both the Bib and the Skirt Appliqués. This will create a firm edge. Turn the edge under along the stitch line.5 Place the Left Bib Appliqué right side up on the left side of the Bib, lining up the raw edges and notches, and pin in place. Handsew to the Bib along the

“zigzag” edge of the appliqué using a blindstitch. Repeat the entire step to attach the Left Skirt Appliqué to the left side of the Skirt Front.6 Lay the Neck Strap pieces with right sides together, matching up the edges. Sew together at one short edge with a diagonal seam (see Step 3 for assistance) to create one long Neck Strap. Press the seam allowance open.7 Center the Facing (for the Bib and the Back Skirt) and the Neck Strap fusible interfacing pieces on the wrong sides of the Facings and Neck Strap (place the two Neck Strap interfacing pieces side by side at the center so that there is no break in the interfacing); apply according to the manufacturer’s instructions.8 Fold the Neck Strap in half lengthwise with right sides together. Sew along the long edge, then turn right side out. Press flat so that the seam runs down the middle (this will become the inside of the strap); set aside. 9 Turn the outer edges (edges that will not be seamed) of each of the Facings under by ¼” (6 mm) and topstitch 1⁄8” (3 mm) from the edge to finish.0 With right sides together, pin the Bib Facing and Bib pieces together, being sure to line up all notches. Place the Neck Strap between the Bib Facing and Bib, placing the ends of the strap between the notches (on Bib piece) a little more than ½” (1.3 cm) from the edge with the right (non-seam) side of the strap facing the Bib. Trim the neck strap to shorten before placement if necessary to fit, but be sure to leave enough room to slip apron over your head. Sew all layers together, then clip the corners for a clean turn. (To clip the corners, cut triangles at the corners with the point of the triangles facing the corner. Cut close to the seam but be careful not to cut through it or cut so closely that the fabric will fray through the seam.) Turn right side out and press. Topstitch around the seamed edges, 1⁄8” (3 mm) from the edge.- With right sides together, pin and then sew the Skirt Facings to the Back Skirt pieces. Turn the pieces right side

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out and press. Topstitch around the seamed edges, 1⁄8” (3 mm) from the edge.= With right sides together, pin the Skirt Backs to each side of the Skirt Front, matching up the notches. Press the seam allowances toward the back of the skirt. Serge or pink all exposed seam allowances or use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the edges.q With right sides together, match the center notch at the bottom of the Bib to the center notch on the waist edge of the Skirt. Pin the pieces together and machine baste (see Stitch Glossary, in Sewing Basics) 3⁄8” (1 cm) from the edge.

FiniSh tieS and hemSw The binding made in Step 3 serves to both finish the raw edges at the waist and create the ties. With the wrong side of the apron facing, find the center of the bias binding and starting at the center notches of the waist seam, enclose the raw edges of the waist seam allowances inside the folds of the bias tape, pinning as you go (snug the edges of the seam allowances up to the center fold of the binding). Topstitch the binding about 3⁄8” (1 cm) from the edge, continuing to topstitch past the waist seam, all the way to the end of the binding, then topstitch down the length of the binding on the opposite side of the apron. This will create the ties on either side of the apron. Make an overhand knot at each end of the binding and trim the edges at 45-degree angles. e Press the bound seam allowances toward the neck and then topstitch along the waist seam, ¼” (6 mm) above the waist seam, stitching through the bound seam allowances to secure in place. r Staystitch the hem ½” (1.3 cm) from the edge, then turn under the raw edge along the stitch line and press. Turn under another ½” (1.3 cm), concealing the raw edge and press. Topstitch the hem 1⁄8” (3mm) from the edge and iron along staystitched line, turn once more, concealing raw edge, and sew at 1⁄8”

(3 mm) from the top of the folded edge. t With the buttonhole foot on the sewing machine, sew 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) buttonholes at the buttonhole markings on either side of the Bib, through all layers. Clip the buttonholes open between the stitching.

create circle appliqué y Trace the circle templates provided onto the wrong side of the 8 × 11” (20.5 × 28 cm) piece of the second complementary print fabric (cut 2 of the large and medium, and 1 of the small circles). Pin the 8 × 11” (20.5 × 28 cm) piece of tulle securely to the right side of the fabric. From the wrong side, stitch around the traced lines, through all the layers. Trim each circle to within 1⁄8” (3 mm) of the stitch line.u Clip the seam allowances at intervals around each circle (cut small triangles with the point of the triangles facing the stitch line; these will prevent puckering) or trim around the circles with pinking shears. Cut a small opening in the tulle of each circle and carefully turn through this opening. The tulle will hold the raw edges to the back of the work. Press flat.i Scatter the circles pleasingly on the front of the skirt and bib as desired. Pin each circle in place, then appliqué each circle by handstitching around the edges with a slip stitch (see Stitch Glossary, in Sewing Basics). o Using three strands of embroidery floss and an embroidery needle, handstitch a running stitch around the finished edge of each circle. Using three strands of the second color of embroidery floss, handstitch a running stitch along the “zigzag” edge of the appliqués on the skirt and bib, continuing onto the edge of the neck strap, stopping in the middle of the neck strap. Each stitch should be measured and even.p Thread each tie through the buttonhole on the opposite side of the apron and start entertaining!

melanie testa is a rad chic living in Brooklyn, New York. When not printing, sewing, beading, knitting or spinning, she walks, watches birds, and has fun with her man. Check out her first book, Inspired to Quilt (Interweave) and visit her at melanietesta.com.

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