1940’s SilhouetteReflected the austerity of WW11

Typical “New Look”Silhouette

The 1950’s 1947-1960

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Influential People England •  George VI •  Elizabeth II (became queen 1952) America •  Harry S Truman •  Dwight D. Eisenhower •  John F Kennedy •  Dr Martin Luther King, Jr. Other •  Khrushchev •  Charles de Gaulle •  Fidel Castro

Ofelia Fox, in an white lace halter dress by Pierre Balmain. To her right is Liberace, who was

giving a dinner at Tropicana for the Cuban press corps.

photos provided by Rosa Lowinger (website).

Cuban actress Lillian Laso, Mexican film star Maria Felix, Cuban torch singer Olga Guillot, and Carmen Miranda relaxing at Havana's fabled

Tropicana Cabaret. Behind Miranda in pale tie is Tropicana's owner Martin Fox.

Events •  KOREAN “POLICE ACTION” •  MCCARTHY “WITCH-HUNTS” •  THE COLD WAR •  SUBURBIA •  CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT •  EMERGENCE OF THE TEENAGER •  1948—Gandhi assassinated •  1949—Mao-Tse-Tung takes over rule of China •  1949—Apartheid is established in South Africa •  1951—2-term limit for presidents established •  1952—Elizabeth II ascends the throne of England •  1952—Immigration and Naturalization Act •  1953—First issue of “Playboy” •  1954—Nasser seizes power in Egypt •  1954--Supreme Court rules segregation in public schools by race un-

Constitutional •  1955—Bus boycott by blacks in Alabama--Rosa Parks •  1956—Pakistan becomes Islamic republic •  1956—Prince Rainier of Monaco marries the actress Grace Kelly •  1957—USSR launches Sputnik—first earth satellites •  The “Beatnik” movement begins in California & sweeps US

Brown vs. The Board of Education 1954 Time Inc

Rosa Parks

Grace Kelly and Prince Ranier of Monaco

First issue of “Playboy”

Discoveries and Inventions•  1949—Cortisone identified

•  1950—1.5 million TV sets in use in the US•  1951—15 million TV sets in use in the US•  1951—Color television introduced•  1954—29 million TV sets in use in the US

•  1952—First hydrogen bomb

•  1953—Lung cancer attributed to cigarette smoking

•  1953—First climb to top of Mt Everest

•  1954—School children are inoculated against polio (US)

•  1954—The US contains 6% of the world’s population, but it has 60% of all cars, 58% of all telephones, 45% of all radio sets, and 34% of all railroads

UNIVAC Computer1954Time, INC

Literature•  James Michener •  Norman Mailer •  Aldous Huxley •  Graham Greene •  George Orwell •  T S Eliot •  Carson McCullers •  Ray Bradbury •  Gore Vidal •  Ayn Rand

•  J D Salinger •  Truman Capote •  Edna Ferber •  Dylan Thomas •  Jack Kerouac •  Langston Hughes •  Lawrence Ferlinghetti •  William S Burroughs•  1954--J R R Tolkien—“Lord of the

Rings” •  1957—Dr Seuss—“The Cat in the

Hat”

Theatre

•  John Osborne •  Bertolt Brecht •  Eugene O Neill •  Arthur Miller •  Rodgers &

Hammerstein •  Anouilh

•  William Inge •  Terence Rattigan •  Samuel Beckett •  Ionesco •  Lillian Hellman •  Tennessee Williams

Music •  Bartok •  Leonard Bernstein •  “Cool Jazz” •  Maria Callas •  Elvis Presley

“Mona Lisa” “The Tennessee Waltz” “Mack the Knife” “Mr. Sandman” “Your Cheatin’ Heart” “Unforgettable” “That’s Amore” “Sincerely” “Stranger in Paradise” “Don’t Be Cruel” “April Love” “Tammy” “Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend”

Dance

•  The Samba •  The Cha-cha-cha •  The Jitterbug •  The Bossa Nova •  The Stroll •  The Hand Jive

Film

“From Here to Eternity” “Ben Hur” “Lady and the Tramp” “Quo Vadis” “Rear Window” “The Robe” “On the Waterfront” “High Noon” “The Seven Year Itch” “Giant” “Rock Around the Clock” “Roman Holiday”

“The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit”

Television I Love Lucy The Jack Benny Show Burns and Allen The Adventures of Ozzie and Harriet The Lone Ranger Amos ‘n’ Andy The Red Skelton Show Sea Hunt American Bandstand The Honeymooners Dragnet Gunsmoke

Perry Mason

Sal Mineo, Pat Boone, Dick Clark, Frankie Avalon, Bobby Darren,

Leisure Time / Sports

The Hula Hoop1958—100 million sold world-wide

Jackie Robinson & Willie Mays

�Philosophy�

Norman Vincent Peale

positive thinking, The Art of Living

1954 Time cover

The Reverend Billy Graham

Dr Martin Luther King, Jr.Non-violent Civil Disobedience “Dr Spock”

The Best-selling book of the20th century in America, Besides the Bible.

A Woman’s Place…

The “HOSTESS” Apron

Selling “The American Dream…”Se

These cards, which take vintage graphicsand add contemporary commentary, are popular today.

“Betty Draper” from“Mad Men”

For ALL?

Visual Style�

Architecture •  Frank Lloyd Wright (still)•  1956—The Sydney Opera House•  “Ranch Style”General Style

Two-tonedArtists•  Jackson Pollock * Picasso•  Chagall * Dali

The Sydney Opera House, designed in the 1950’s but not completed until the 1960’s

Recalling the exuberance of architects Eero Saarinen & Edward Durell Stone Fifties Style, Horn

1950’s “Ranch style” home

George Nelson Ball Clock

Mechanized House in the French 1958 film “Mon Oncle”Directed by Jaques Tati

Number 31�Jackson Pollock�

1950�MMA

1955 Chevy 210

The original Streetcarran from 1949-1974. The restored cars are from the 1950s, 60s,70s.

�Cone chair designed by Verner Panton, 1959. �

Living room with abstract décor, c. 1950 (France).�de Noblet, Jocelyn. Industrial Design. P.216�

125cc Vespa Scooter. C. 1951.�de Noblet, Jocelyn. Industrial Design. �

Vernonware Jug“Tam-o-Shanter”)

Left Upper: Michael Zapetto �Beige Gallery�Left Below: Herman Miller, Inc.���Right: Designed between 1955-1959 Beige Gallery�Fifties Style, Horn � �

1950’s Radio w/ Interlocking boomerang shapes. Fifties Style, Horn

Boomerang-shaped ashtrays

1940’s radio to use as a point of comparison

A time of Contrasts…….�

And multiple choices…..

Fashion / Costume Designers�

Elsa Schiaperelli-- Russian-born French designer known for the whimsy in her style…combined the work of Cocteau, Dali, and Giacometti, etc in her designs.

•  Claire McCardelle - originated the “American Look”. Her clothes were clean-lined, functional, comfortable, and appropriate to the occasion. She popularized “spaghetti straps”.

•  Coco Chanel (continues) •  Hubert de Givenchy principal designer for Audrey Hepburn •  Christian Dior - died in 1957—(Yves St Laurent takes over House) •  Jaques Fath –utilized hemp sacking and sequins made of walnut shells •  Balenciaga - The “Sacque” or sheath dress •  Pierre Balmain- known for slender, elegant lines •  1946 – The “Bikini” (introduced by French engineer Louis Reard and fashion designer Jacques Heim,

named after a Micronesian island where atomic bombs were tested (Bikini Atoll)

•  1952—Ferragamo introduces the “Stiletto Heel” (means “little dagger”)--(heel could be 4-5” tall!)

Brigitte Bardot posing in a bikini at the Cannes Film

Festival in 1953

Micheline Bernardini modeling one of the first modern bikinis,

1946

1951, the first and the last Miss World to be crowned in a Bikini

An indication of the dichotomy of styles—Doris Day(R) was the “girl next door”and Marilyn Monroe (L) was the“Sex Symbol”. Both were very popular ideals of 1950s femininity with both men and women.

A tale of 2 silhouettes

Both of these are designs by Christian Dior. The one on the left is a “Couture” gown that required 3 personal fittings, would have been made at the “House of Dior” in Paris and would have been very expensive. The one on the right is also a design by Dior, but was produced in conjunction with the Marshall Fields Department store in Chicago in a revolutionary attempt to bring the spirit of Couture-wear on the mass-production scale to the American shopper at an affordable price.

On a side-note: The Chicago History Museum owned one of the gowns already, and had gone to the home of a donor to pick up a donation. They were given the intended items and as they were leaving saw a corner of the fabric sticking out of a garbage bag (that the donor had slated to dispose of) which they recognized from the gown in the collection. Upon pulling it out, they discovered that it was the companion piece, therefore giving them an incredible example of an innovative step in the history of fashion!

Affordable & Accessible “Couture”

Suzy Parker

Suzy Parker….first model to make 100,000 dollars

MEN

So much variety existed… with the conservative grey suit at one end, and the bad boy motorcycle “hood” at the other. Your clothing could identify you with certain societal groups. FIRST MEN’s COLOGNE……… “Canoe”

Elvis Presley and Sal Mineo

Prince Philip 1952

The MAN in the GREY FLANNEL SUIT

•  Written by Sloan Wilson and Jonathan Franzen. •  Role played by Gregory Peck. (1956) •  Conservative (colors and fabrics) •  Modest width lapels and tie.

Sterling Hayden

SWANK

•  Martinis •  Pre / Early “Rat-Pack” •  Humphrey Bogart, confident cool

“SQUEAKY CLEAN”

•  Pat Boone •  Khakis and Chinos •  White Bucks •  Cardigan sweaters •  Penny loafers

NMSU Campus

The TEENAGE Boy

•  Blue Jeans with wide turned-back cuffs •  Madras Plaid Shirts •  Letterman’s Jackets •  Cowboy or western look •  Classic iconic American hero

Ricky Nelson

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THE MOTORCYCLE BAD BOY

•  James Dean •  Marlon Brando (in “The Wild Ones”) •  Elvis Presley (“Elvis the Pelvis”…couldn’t be

filmed from the waist down…) •  Tight blue jeans •  Leather jackets •  Duck tails

Marlon Brando in “The Wild Ones”James Dean

Elvis Presley

Mickey Spillane

British “Teddy Boys”and the female counterpart—The “Judies”

WOMEN

•  We get the most variety in female silhouette so far. Everything from youthful teenage fads to chic sophistication. From very casual sportswear to cocktail and evening wear.

•  Certain de rigeur standards were expected such as hose, gloves, and hats, etc.

•  Everything was lined, and understructure construction was very intense with tabs, bones, and pads.

•  Proper FOUNDATION garments were integral to achieving many of the silhouettes. –  The Brassiere and “Merry Widow” foundations had extremely

pointed breasts. (“Bullet Bras”) –  The girdle allowed a tight fit with no “jiggling”

•  Red lips and fingernails became popular.

•  Hairspray was an essential supply for most hairstyles at this time.

•  Hat styles included the “Whimsy” a net hat, and at the end of the period--the “Pillbox hat” (Ultimately popularized by Jackie Kennedy.)

Notable in silhouette

•  Shaped Waist Darts & Pleats

•  Forced or “Stand” pockets

Marilyn Monroe

Elizabeth Taylor

Elizabeth Taylor, famousFor wearing slips in both“Butterfield 8”(L, 1960) and “CatOn a Hot Tin Roof”(Below, 1958)

Taylor & Montgomery Clift

Grace Kelly

Audrey Hepburn

Maria Felix

Sophia Loren

Brigitte Bardot

��

Foundation……. ��

Foundation……… �

Foundation……… �

(Above)�1950’s advertisement�

Warners Merry Widows

Ascot 1953

Stiletto-”Little Dagger”

The BOUFFANT Hairstyle

The BOUFFANT Silhouette•  Puffy silhouette achieved through use of stiffening (usually multiple layers of crinoline, net or tulle). The Dirndl style puffed skirt could stand out at varying lengths, or could gather back in to a fitted band.•  Very small waists.•  Often very pointed breasts.•  Often Had “SWEETHEART Neckline”. •  (Often had small sheer jackets) •  Hair tended to echo the silhouette.•  Many “Prom Dresses” were indicative of this style.

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The BALLERINA Look

•  Audrey Hepburn, “Laura Petrie”•  Hair pulled back from face.•  Trim athletic look.•  Flat street versions of Capezio ballet

slippers.•  Pedal pushers / Pants with stirrups.•  Turtle necks.

Hepburn withHubert de Givenchy

Ball Gown c. 1954 FrenchPink tulle embroidered with pink iridescent sequins and

paillettes rhinestones and crystal beadsWorn by Marlene Dietrich

Label: Christian Dior.Kent State

Infanta evening gown, 1952, United StatesGlass beads, silk net

Chic Chicago Exhibit

Butterfly Ballgown, 1954, United StatesSilk chiffon, taffeta, and net

Made in the U.S

This Charles James gown necessitated that the wearer be lifted up and then lowered into the dress, and was then

unable to sit at the evening’s event.

Both gowns from Chic Chicago Exhibit

The DRAPED Silhouette

•  Had a very form fitting silhouette.•  Often “emphasized” alluring body areas.•  Achieved the look with use of slinky

fabrics.•  Had a dressy, sophisticated look.

The SWEATER Girl

•  Sexy, but innocent (“Girl Next Door”).•  Sweater “Sets” in fresh feminine colors.•  Uplifted breasts.•  Shorts, Culottes, Bermudas, Pedal Pushers.•  Often had “Peter Pan” Collars or sheer

scarves tied around neck.

�

•  Poodle Skirts•  Bobby Socks and Saddle Oxfords•  The “Car Coat”.•  Jumpers•  Pony Tails

The TEENAGE Girl

NMSU Campus

“Pleasantville”

Beach Fashion �1950�

Nina Leen

Swimsuits �(not necessarily meant to ever be in water!)��

&

Playwear

MODEL CHIC

•  The “L” Silhouette.•  The dart configuration of this style caused a

mounding in the abdomen area.•  The models were often very slender and

long limbed.

The SACK / SAQUE Dress

•  Marilyn Monroe•  Very unstructured everywhere, except that it

hugs the hip and rear area very closely.•  Often made of “clingy” fabric.•  Worn with stilettos.

The BEATNIK

•  Continuing from the previous period--The “Beatnik moved more into the mainstream, at least in pop culture.

•  This group was represented in film and television as a “character type” such as “Maynard G. Krebbs” on “The Many Loves of Dobie Gillis”.

•  Berets, goatees, sunglasses, black clothes, etc.

2006�GAP ran a

promotion of their “Skinny” Black

Pants that features Audrey Hepburn

dancing (taken from a scene in Funny

Face) with AC/DC's Back in Black as the

soundtrack

Cry Baby

Pleasantville

Hairspray

Stand By Me

Far From Heaven

Brooklyn

Additional �1950’s �Images

Fifties Era Jewelry

Friedrich Becker gold and moonstone ring that can be worn in two directions, 1956.

Chadour, Anna Beatriz. Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Forty Centuries seen by Four Generations; Volume II

Painted glass brooches, c. 1950’s.

Möller, Renate and Christianne Weber. Mode und Modeschmuck: 1920-1970 in Deutschland

Rhinestone, glass and simulated pearl necklace from 1958.

Möller, Renate and Christianne Weber. Mode und Modeschmuck: 1920-1970 in Deutschland.

Soft plastic and glass ear clips, c. 1950’s.

Möller, Renate and Christianne Weber. Mode und Modeschmuck: 1920-1970 in Deutschland.