Silo Lona

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In the heart of the remote NusaTenggara islands, Patty Seeery is aremarkable American woman ready towelcome you on board her magnificentboat : the Silolona...

Silolona: sailing in IndonesiaPhotos Stphane Frances/Lightmediation Text: Isabelle Fougre

Contact - Thierry Tinacci Lightmediation agency +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 [email protected]

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635-02: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, with 15 crew members

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-01: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with his big black sails / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-02: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, with 15 crew members / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-03: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, excursionon the lagoon of Komodo island / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-04: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Champagne on board / INDONESIA /

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635-34: Bali island, Legong woman dancer

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-06: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, Patty Seery the owner's, leave on board / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-07: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, with 15 crew members. The captain cabin / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-08: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Breakast on board / INDONESIA /

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635-45: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with 5 luxous cabins on board (Java cabin)

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-09: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, with 15 crew members / INDONESIA /


SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-11: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with 5 luxous cabins on board (Bali cabin) / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-12: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with 5 luxous cabins on board (Java cabin) / INDONESIA /

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635-59: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with his big black sails

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-14: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Saloon at sunset / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-15: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, excursionon the lagoon of Komodo island / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-16: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, excursionon Komodo island / INDONESIA /

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635-43: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, Patty Seery the owner's with his crew

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-17: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Stop on wild and lovely beaches / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-18: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Captain welcome's song... / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-19: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Komodo island / INDONESIA / SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-20: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, with 15 crew members / INDONESIA /

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635-20: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, with15 crew members

635-29: Bali island, Bangli region, Undisan temple

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-21: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Stop on wild and lovely beaches / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-22: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, Patty Seery the owner's, leave on board / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-23: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, Visit onthe island of Komodo dragons / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-24: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Flores island / INDONESIA /

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635-28: Bali island, rice fields on Ubud region

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-25: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Flores island, 3 colors lake ofKelimutu volcano / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-26: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Flores island, Bima village / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-27: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Komodo island / INDONESIA / SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-28: Bali island, rice fields on Ubud region / INDONESIA /

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635-48: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Diner preparation

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-29: Bali island, Bangli region, Undisan temple / INDONESIA / SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-30: Bali island, rice fields / Indonesia /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-31: Bali island, rice fieds / INDONESIA / SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-32: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with his big black sails / INDONESIA /

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635-08: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Breakast on board

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-33: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with 5 luxous cabins on board (statues on Bali bathroom cabin) /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-34: Bali island, Legong woman dancer / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-35: Bali island, Legong woman dancer / INDONESIA / SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-36: Bali island, Nusa Dua, Temple / INDONESIA /

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635-21: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Stop on wild and lovely beaches

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-37: Bali island, Bangli region, Undisan procession temple / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-38: Bali island, Bangli region, Undisan procession temple / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-39: Bali island, Bangli region, Manik Bingin temple in Undisanvillage / INDONESIA /


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635-19: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Komodo island

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-41: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Relaxing time / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-42: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with 5 luxous cabins on board (Sumba cabin) / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-43: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat, Patty Seery the owner's with his crew / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-44: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Breakfast time / INDONESIA /

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635-49: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, a wonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with his big black sails

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SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-45: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat with 5 luxous cabins on board (Java cabin) / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-46: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, Flores island, fishermen family atLabuanbajo village / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-47: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat 45 meters long / INDONESIA /

SILOLONA, sailing in Indonesia / 635-48: Nusa Tenggara archipelago, cruise on Silolona boat, awonderful traditional Phinisis sailboat. Diner preparation / INDONESIA /

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635-50: Bali island, Ulun Danu temple on Bratan lake (near Bedugul village)

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Silolona: sailingin IndonesiaIn the heart of the remote Nusa Tenggaraislands, Patty Seeery is a remarkableAmerican woman ready to welcome youon board her magnificent boat : theSilolona...

The brown of the Silolona forms a strikingcontrast with the sparkling turquoisewater: warm timber on a picture postcardsea. Six passengers have stepped onboard and are there, barefoot, standingstock still on a deck as big as the decks ofthe pirate ships at the movies in theirchildhood. Sofas and cushions are readyfor guests to curl up beside baskets filledwith seashells; but it is already time toraise anchor. The masts crack with thewarmth of the sun. A drink is served anda few words of welcome are spoken byPatti Seery, the owner of the boat. Thenwe set sail, moving across smooth waters.

The port of Labuan Bajo, at theeasternmost point of the island of Flores,slowly disappears over the horizon and aman in a sarong, holding a conch shell,comes up and perches on the starboardrailing. Patti introduces the captain who isabout to sing the song to mark thedeparture - the Silolona song, named after

the famous woman who once lived on theisland.

"Silolona, Silolona, where are you?" Theshell in the captain's hands becomes afoghorn, uttering a plaintive cry. Could theboat have a soul of its own?

Many long years ago, on the Tanimbararchipelago, a beautiful young womannamed Silolona was married to ahandsome young man named Atuf. Inthose days, the blazing sun burnt withsuch heat that it killed any form of humanlife; and Silolona could not escape thatfate. Her husband, in desperation, set offon a journey to attack the murderousplanet in the skies, and the spirit of thebeautiful Silolona traveled with him. After

criss-crossing the islands of Indonesia(peregrinations reminiscent of theOdyssey of Ulysses), the husbandmanaged to stab the sun and, in doing so,created the stars and saved the humanrace.

While Patti recounts the legend (includingthe reference to the friendly spirit ofSilolona living on in her boat), she alsokeeps an eye on the sailing and thecourse being steered. Clutching theshrouds, she is part of her boat - the boatof her dreams which she designed andbuilt, teaming up with the last families ofwoodworkers from the Konjo communityon the island of Sulawesi. For more thantwo years now she has been taking gueststo some of the most beautiful parts ofIndonesia. Her love for these islands isthe love of a lifetime, and her life is anadventure in itself.

When Patti was a child and first read"Moby Dick", she dreamt of being captainof a whaling ship. She ended up being anarchitect, teacher and adventurer, and has

followed life wherever it has taken her,including France, Sicily, Australia andIndia. Wherever she has been, she hasfound subjects to fascinate her: she hasstudied cooking and the history of textiles,and now has a range of degrees anddiplomas.

In 1981, Patti discovered Indonesia. Sheexplored the most remote islands, meetingisolated communities, studying theirtraditions and animistic beliefs, andorganizing exhibitions of traditional andfolk art. And she has also been a guide,helping visitors discover wonderful divingspots, secluded beaches and magnificentvolcanoes.

The adventure of building the Silolona

shows just how dynamic this woman fromthe USA is. She had to find investors toback the project, have tons of woodtransported to an isolated island, adapttraditional shapes and designs to suit thelatest techniques and run a team of morethan one hundred workers.

The Silolona is 47 meters long and cancarry up to ten passengers; it is solid andseaworthy, and also spacious andcomfortable, with berths for up to tenpassengers. Like all the "phinisis", thetraditional sailing boats in these islands, itis rigged with seven large black sails, andit can reach up to 12 k nots.

When the ship was launched in Bali, Pattiwas determined to observe all the properrituals. "The launching of a boat here islike a wedding; a permanent bond isforged. Each part of the boat correspondsto a part of the body: gold must be placedhere, and diamonds there. And appealsmust be made beseeching protectionbefore taking to sea."

So here we are, cruising through apeaceful seascape in the Lesser SundaIslands (Nusa Tenggara). The land viewsoffer contrasts with tropical growth, baldhilltops and small coves of golden sand.There is Sumba the island of spirits andmegaliths, Komodo the dragon island,Rinca the wild island, Sangeang the

volcanic island, and many others.

On board, we can visit the suites beforelunch: they are enormous! Patti Seeryhas created attractive environmentsfeaturing articles and fabrics picked upfrom various points in Indonesia. Eachcabin is decorated in the style of one ofthe islands, e.g. Bali, Asmat or Borneo. Inthe Bali suite, a white orchid stands infront of the porthole, shimmering in the

orange gold rays of the sun alreadymoving on a downward path, while up ondeck, the chef, William Collier, hasprepared a meal for the passengers - aperfect balance between the flavors of theorient and the Mediterranean.

The Silolona sails from island to island fornearly a week; the pace is relaxed.Afternoons are spent lazing in the shelterof unspoiled coves and inlets, diving andcollecting shells. Patti sits cross-leggedon the beach and tells her stories; thereare legends, the history of each reef, herlife story, animistic rites, and so it goes on.Back on board, guests are refreshed with

cool towels tinged with citronella. Thenwe are off for the next visit? and the next.On the island of Komodo, the famousmonitor lizards or "dragons" seem to beposing as dinosaurs, and they arecertainly impressive, measuring up tothree meters. Later, when visiting a tinyfishing village, the chief's son extends aspecial welcome by getting coconuts forus. Patti is treated to a VIP receptionwherever she goes.

A cruise on the Silolona is more than justa magnificent trip. Patti's guests enjoy themagic of discovery, plus physical delightsand comfort, and, of course, stimulationfor the mind, with her brilliant story-tellingand enthusiasm for history, plus her

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unique ability to share. Surely the Silolona has a soul! Every evening,passengers return to their cabins to find a small gift recalling the experienceof the day: a miniature silver dragon, a carved wooden votive statue, or asilk sarong.

At dusk, after a cool shower and a cool drink, the crewmembers (who are alltrue professionals and always there when needed) swap their sailing andwork gear and turn into musicians, playing the guitar and serenading thestars. Night owls then listen to the indefatigable Patti, still telling tales bymoonlight, talking of her plans for a new boat, and her traditional home inToraja.

Before long it is time to sail back to Labuan Bajo. The fifteen sailors arebusy with the rigging, and the black sails flap in the breeze. There in thedistance is the volcano on Sangeang. Gently rocked by the waves, weappreciate that rare feeling of having experienced another world, anothercivilization, another culture.

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Silo Lona