South Africa - Adventure, Education, Wildlife Tracking May 31 – June 16, 2021

Trip #2125

Kruger Lion in beautiful light*

Summary

Much more than an African safari, this trip with internationally recognized educators and guides encompasses wildlife tracking, animal behavior, cultural anthropology, field ecology, and bushcraft (wilderness survival skills)! And, of course we will enjoy numerous walking and vehicle safaris. Explore the varying landscapes, witness the extraordinary light, and immerse yourself in the culture of the South African Bush. We will sleep in comfortable tents, within remote bush camps, potentially surrounded by over 50 large mammals and hundreds of bird species. Close to camp, we will hear cackling hyenas, leopard coughs and hippopotamus laughter, and look outside at creatures great and small. We’ll see animals such as lions and elephants virtually every day. In fact, they are very often right outside our tents! Most of our time in South Africa will be spent in the Kruger Park Ecosystem. *All Photos courtesy of Lee Gutteridge and Kersey Lawrence unless otherwise noted.

Our trip starts with a visit to the Cradle of Humankind, just west of Johannesburg, to see archaeological sites and digs – and explore the proto-hominid history of this area. Next, we will hike in the Drakensberg Mountains to stretch our legs and appreciate the incredible scenery. We could see dozens of interesting and colorful bird species. We may see dwarf antelope and blue monkeys. For the next week we will be at the Ngala Training Camp on the banks of the Olifants River.

The following days include walking and vehicle safaris, tracking lessons, a river cruise, and discussions on wildlife and African hominid history. We will learn about local tree types, medicinal plants and other organisms. This is where we could see wildebeest, rhinoceros, elephants, impalas, leopards, zebras, lions and more. One night we have the option of a bush sleep-out (no tent) with endless coffee around the fire, and the gentle chatter

of the guard shift to lull us to sleep. We will visit a nearby village to mingle with the locals and hopefully lend a hand with one of their many projects. We will spend a day in an open game viewer within the famous Kruger National Park. Ending on a high note, we will spend our final days in a luxurious camp where the grasses are sweeter and the animals are even more abundant and relaxed. The photographic opportunities are endless!

Our Guides

Lee Gutteridge, Kersey Lawrence, F.W. De Klerk and Bradley Nurden among others will accompany us during this incredible adventure. Lee is the author of eight southern African natural history books and is one of only 10 FGASA Scout Guides (the highest qualification that can be earned). Kersey, a PhD candidate at UCONN and an award-winning teacher, is the only female Senior Tracker in the world.

Video of Guide Training Workshop Nature Guide Training and Original Wisdom instruct aspiring African Guides. This 9-minute video shows Ngala Training Camp, where we will stay for the majority of our time in Africa. It shows the animals and includes testimonials of past students. Since we are not studying to become guides, we will not necessarily do everything described in the video – but it has a great overview of where we will be and some of our activities. Video

Trip Difficulty This trip can be enjoyed by almost anyone with a reasonable level of fitness and day hiking experience – and a sense of adventure! Trail conditions range from gentle walks to a 10-mile steep mountain hike. Solid hiking shoes or light boots with ankle support will be sufficient for the several hikes and safari walks. Hiking is not the primary focus on this trip, but participants must be sufficiently fit to enjoy the mountain hikes and many safari walks. This trip is rated #3/#4 (easy to moderate) and geared towards those with some hiking experience and the fitness to hike 4-6 hours/day. The longest hike is 10 miles. We will walk/hike at a modest pace, which will permit time for photos, and discussions of what we see. To see more about the rating system go to: Rating System

Accommodations and Meals Our accommodations range from rustic and simple to luxurious, but it is always clean and comfortable, and more importantly it is in VERY close contact with nature in a vast and open ecosystem. At our home base, Ngala Camp, we literally have lions and elephants patrol past tents, just outside the unobtrusive electric fence! Most of our nights are spent at Camps or Lodges, two people per tent. Outdoor bathrooms have toilets and showers with hot water. Potable drinking water is available. Electricity is by solar. We are literally inside one of the largest open ecosystems in the world for much of our experience, with the possibility of seeing nomadic lion prides, large herds of elephants or buffalo, and even wild dog or cheetah on any given day. On-the other-hand, because the animals roam at will, the possibility of a quiet day also exists, and then we will focus on all of the little-things that form the foundation of this vast landscape; over a dozen antelope species, mongooses, birds, invertebrates, reptiles and amphibians, trees and other plants, human history, geology… and, of course, tracking!

Lee and Kersey

Our meals are excellent quality.

We don’t just keep you alive, we ensure that you have well catered

meals. We try to accommodate dietary requirements such as for

vegetarians and folks with allergies, as best as possible in the wilds of Africa. Please notify us in

advance.

Daily Itinerary May 30 or Earlier - Travel from the US to Johannesburg, South Africa Johannesburg informally known as “Jozi”, “Joburg”, or “Egoli” (the place of ), is the largest city in South Africa (SA) and one of the 50 largest urban areas in the world. It is a powerhouse for finance and business as well as the provincial capital and largest city in the Gauteng Province, the wealthiest province in SA. With over 10 million trees, Johannesburg is also touted as having the largest man-made forest in the world! Flights from the US typically take 20 to 24 hours.

On foot with spotted hyenas

Ngala camp students watch

elephants from their tent

May 31, Day 1 Land in Johannesburg, SA Arrive at the airport and transfer to the lodge to settle into our rooms. Spend the remainder of the day acclimatizing to the time zone and high altitude (just under 6000 feet) of the South African interior plateau.

June 1, Day 2 Meet Lee and Kersey, our guides and educators for the next two weeks. Take private transportation to the “Cradle of Humankind”, a paleoanthropological site about 31 miles northwest of this gold mining city. The famous gold rush of the late 1880’s is still evident in old infrastructure and bright yellow mine dumps of the city scenery. We will visit some archaeological sites, and, if we are fortunate, one of the digs run by the University of the Witwatersrand where an archaeologist-in-residence will guide us. This privilege is a fascinating way to explore the proto-hominid history of the area, which is one of the oldest and most productive sites on the continent. We will spend time walking the sites, very cautiously investigating the past of our ancient relatives, and may even go underground into a famous cave! Our evening will be in a comfortable lodge, with a sumptuous dinner, in the traditional South African “braai” style barbeque. June 2, Day 3 Eat an early breakfast and depart for the northern Drakensberg within the Limpopo and Mpumalanga Provinces. The Drakensberg is part of the Great Escarpment, which encloses the central Southern African plateau. Our drive to a comfortable guest lodge will take about 4 hours. We will stop on the way for lunch at a popular restaurant.

In the afternoon, we will venture into the Afro-montane forest that surrounds the lodge for some birding and a mountain trail hike. See rare and special birds, such as the black-fronted bush-shrike, orange ground-thrush and the gaudily feathered Knysna turaco. These creatures fly amongst giant forest trees, covered in vines and creepers. Small red duikers (a dwarf forest antelope) lurk in the shadows. Blue monkeys (known locally as the Samango) feed in the treetops around the lodge. There are various hike options to select from depending on the desires of the group. At night, the eerie call of the thick-tailed bushbaby often resounds through the forest, along with the whoop of the African wood owl.

Colorful Bird - photo by Drew Grove

Male Greater double collared sunbird

June 3, Day 4

Take a wonderful walk in the cool of the mountains. Spend the day on the trail, hiking in the northeast Drakensberg’s undulating terrain, which will stretch our limbs and invigorate us. The altitude of approximately 6000 feet may be challenging for some, but the walks will be at a gentle pace to accommodate all. The many trails around the lodge will keep us busy. There are at least a half dozen options that pass by beautiful waterfalls, old caves and gold mine shafts, lush Afro-montane forest, and many other wonderful and unusual habitats.

June 4, Day 5

Depart the forests to visit the amazing “Three Rondawels” in the Blyde River Canyon region. Also known as the Three Sisters, these ancient geological wonders are a trio of portly peaks shaped like native beehive huts called rondawels. Situated along the famous panorama route in Mpumalanga, the view from the Three Rondawels lookout may be the finest in South Africa! Look out over the Lowveld Region, toward the eastern coastal plain, and Kruger National Park region where we will spend the remainder of our adventure. The view over the Blyde Canyon is amazing, and this is reputed to be the second largest canyon on earth (after the Grand).

From here, we shall descend off the high, cool Drakensberg escarpment to the private bush camp that will be our home for the next seven nights. The Ngala Training Camp (NT camp) is situated on the banks of the Olifants River at 900 to 1,200 feet, inside the Kruger Park Ecosystem. NT camp is rustic, beautiful and wild. After we will settle in, we will head out for an afternoon safari in open game viewing vehicles stopping to take in the view and sample a traditional “sundowner”, an iced Amarula liquor.

June 5 - June 9, Days 6 - 10 While at NT camp, we will wake early each day for a hike or a morning safari to view wildlife. The safaris will either be walks or drives in open game-viewing vehicles. Over 50 large mammals have been recorded in the area around NT camp - wildebeest, rhinoceros, impala and other grazers, or even the rarely glimpsed African wild cat! Leopard, African buffalo, nyala antelope, plains zebra and many, many other species live at NT camp, and we hardly need to leave the camp to see game. African elephants and

Three Rondawels – photo by Drew Grove

tawny-yellow lions are seen regularly, as are tiny steenboks, and on rare occasions a painted wolf. The animals are out there waiting for us to track and find them amongst the rugged bush and scrub. In addition, the calls and bright plumages of the hundreds of local birds will be heard and seen at every turn!

During our time at NT camp, we will try to arrange excursions to visit a rhino apu (anti-poaching unit) and visit a local reptile park. Or we may be able to have a representative visit us at NT Camp. If not on an all-day hike in the Balule hills or Drakensberg Mountains, most days we will eat brunch after returning from the morning safari. Mid-day activities include; a discussion of African Hominid history at an amazing historic field site, a short walk to look at animal tracks and signs, a siesta in one of the camp hammocks, or a little time sitting alone to reflect on your increased awareness of animal behavior and interactions.

Activities later in the afternoons or evenings consist of additional walking safaris or game drives in search of more wild animals, a cruise on the Olifants River where we may encounter hippo, crocodile and interesting bird species such as purple and goliath herons, and the large-footed African jacana. If you feel really intrepid, after dinner on Day 9, drive out of NT camp to spend a night in lion country sleeping under the stars on a foam pad. Experience being part of a rotating night shift of guards. Hang out with the guards drinking coffee around the campfire. Awaken to find the tracks of lions or leopard

nearby! The camp is a naturally noisy place at night. We will hear nearby hyena calls, the gentle cough of a prowling leopard or the sounds of hippopotamus, reminiscent of a person laughing at a joke. Let these noises and calls of the bush lull you to sleep.

Ngala Training Camp

Lee’s silhouette – Photo by Drew Grove

June 10, Day 11 Start the morning with a walk along the Olifants River to examine local trees and plants. As we walk, learn about the medicinal and traditionally important values of these ancient organisms. We will learn some tree identification techniques and how trees and geology link together to build the basis of an ecosystem. Brunch will be in the camp, followed by an early afternoon trip to a small mountain, and then down to an Iron Age site in the same region. There is a long history of iron smelting in southern Africa dating back at least 2000 years. Therefore, metalworking is synonymous with the African people in this region. We will explore nearby hills on foot, and see relics of the past, which will bring this site to life. In the afternoon, we will meander back to camp in our game viewing vehicles for our delicious evening meal and our last night at Ngala Training Camp.

June 11, Day 12 Today, we take our final early morning game walk in the Ngala Training Camp area. After brunch, we pack and prepare to depart camp for a visit to a local community. We will meet people from a local village and if time allows, help with one of their many projects. We will stay at a different lodge this evening, situated close to our next day’s activities. The “vibe” will be very different from the peace and

rustic quietness of Ngala. We will encounter other intrepid travelers and swap tales of adventure around the fire.

Birds in flight – photo by Drew Grove

Zebra mother and baby – photo by Drew Grove

June 12, Day 13 We will wake up VERY early and venture out in the open game viewer vehicles for a full day in world-renowned Kruger National Park (KNP) – one of the oldest, largest, and most diverse parks in Africa. KNP was established in 1898 to protect the wildlife of the South African Lowveld and is a world leader in advanced environmental management techniques and policies. With nearly 7,580 square miles of unrivalled diversity of life forms, it is home to an impressive number of species: 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammals across 16 distinct habitats offering a wildlife experience that ranks with the best in Africa! KNP is viewed by tourists as the epitome of the public safari experience. We will experience KNP in the same way as many other visitors, traveling the byways of this famous park. We might see lions and elephants, or various other unusual and wonderful creatures like ground hornbills. We will stop at various points to stretch our legs and do a little souvenir shopping at the large rest camps. Dinner will be back at the lodge, around a communal table, sharing stories of the day’s game viewing.

June 13, Day 14

We will have a leisurely start to the day with breakfast followed by a pleasant walk around the lodge grounds. Then we will travel to the next game reserve, a luxury tented camp in the Kruger Eco System, famous for wonderful game viewing and excellent safari experiences. Shortly after arrival at camp, we will head out on an afternoon game drive. We will sleep here for the remainder of the trip.

June 14, Day 15

Wake early for a morning safari, followed by brunch, and then an optional mid-day siesta or guided walk to examine the small details of nature. The afternoon game drive will extend into the early evening. Our final celebratory dinner will be in camp and we will share a few good-bye drinks around the campfire to round off the evening.

Cape Buffalo at watering hole - Drew Grove

June 15, Day 16

On our final morning in South Africa, we will again wake up early and head out on a final game drive (time allowing). After breakfast, we will say goodbye to Lee and Kersey, pack our luggage, and depart for a six-hour journey back to Johannesburg to catch our flights back to the US.

June 16, Travel Day 17

Arrive in US Your arrival date in the US will depend on the flight you booked (how many connections and your final destination).

Weather

South Africa is in the southern hemisphere. June is the beginning of their winter and is the dry season. We will be at elevations from 1000 feet to over 6000 feet. Temperatures during the day can reach 90 degrees and the nights can be in the 40s. We must be prepared for all situations.

Possible Itinerary Changes While the itinerary in this prospectus is what the leaders have planned at the time of writing, various factors may require changes for reasons of safety, transportation or lodging availability, and unforeseeable circumstances (such as weather, natural disasters in areas to be visited, governmental or ranger recommendations, or availability of permits). The leaders reserve the right to make such changes as necessary, both before and during the trip.

Participant Profile You should enjoy traveling and be comfortable traveling in areas which are unfamiliar to you. You should recognize that you may find yourself in closer quarters or be less comfortable than you are used to at home. You should make it a priority to help others on the trip and contribute to their having a great time. If you do that, we guarantee you will have a great time!

Experience When you participate in this activity, you should be prepared both physically and mentally, and equipped with the appropriate gear. You should always be aware of the risks involved and conduct yourself accordingly. We are not responsible for your safety—you are. Nonetheless, it may happen on any trip that a trip member is or becomes unable to participate in one or more of the planned activities. Leaders in their sole judgment have the right and obligation to refuse participation in any activity to any group member for reasons of group or individual safety. Illness, injury or lack of proper gear or fitness for a particular activity are examples of some conditions that might result in a participant’s being unable to perform one or more activity. Leaders may try to find a substitute activity for the trip member, but this may not always be possible. Prior to your being accepted as a participant in this trip, you will be asked to discuss your capabilities and experience with us. We will also request references to confirm your fitness level and suitability for participating in trip activities. Please do not be offended by our questions.

Safety As participant-safety is a high priority for all AMC-sponsored events, procedures and policies have been developed to attempt to limit participant risk. Participants are expected to work with volunteer leaders to reduce risks and make the experience successful for all. Participants should be aware that there are risks associated with outdoor adventure activities, including but not limited to adverse weather and environmental conditions, remote locations of our trips and camps, and transportation in vehicles, on foot, by train, by boat, or on a bike. When you apply for acceptance onto a trip, please carefully read and sign the Adventure Travel Acknowledgement and Assumption of Risks and Release and Indemnity Agreement and call if you have any questions.

Trip Price The trip price for AMC members is $6600. The non-member price is $6700. To join the AMC (2020 pricing $50 individual, $75 family) click here.” The price for this trip is based on quotes or estimates obtained at the time the trip was planned. The final price of the trip will be adjusted in accordance with the best final arrangements we can make. Any savings we achieve, or any cost increases we incur will be shared by trip participants. Our cost estimates are conservative, and so a refund is more likely than a price increase. All Adventure Travel trips are run on a non-profit basis and refunds are issued after the trip’s financial accounting is complete. In accordance with AMC policy, you are subsidizing the leaders' costs. The trip price includes an AMC overhead fee to cover the administrative expenses of offering Adventure Travel programs. The trip fee also includes emergency medical and evacuation insurance coverage, which is required by the AMC. It does not include insurance for travel delay, interruption, or cancellation, or for baggage loss. If these possibilities concern you, individual travel insurance is recommended. More information about included emergency medical and evacuation insurance, as well as about optional and recommended travel insurance, will be provided to participants in their formal acceptance letters, which will be sent out when the trip has the required number of accepted applicants. Deposit of $2,000 is due with the application. A second deposit of $2,000 is due on September 1, 2020. The balance of $2,600 is due January 15, 2021.

Price Includes ● Safari experiences both on foot and by vehicle

● Professional guiding services of the Nature Guide Training Team

● Accommodations and activity fees on game reserves (Ngala Camp, KNP, Manyeleti camp*) ● All meals beginning with lunch on Day 3, with some exceptions (see below) ● Ground transportation on game reserves (Ngala Camp, KNP, Manyeleti camp*) ● Gate fees (Ngala Camp, KNP, Manyeleti camp*)

● Community levies

● Wholesome meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Ngala Camp and Manyeleti camp*; dinners only in KNP, including bottled water.

● Basic beverages in Ngala Camp and Manyeleti* (water and flavored drink mix, coffee, tea, and even hot chocolate at some camps)

● Use of camera traps, plaster, and other equipment as needed per program

● Lessons and lectures on natural history, animal behavior, astronomy, ecology

● Guest speakers as prearranged for your program

● Tips for local guides, trackers, drivers and Camp staff ● All accommodations beginning on May 31. ● Evacuation Insurance and minimal amounts of health and accident insurance

Price does not include ● Round trip airfare to Johannesburg. At the time of this writing (2019), roundtrip airfare from

Boston or New York was between $900 and $1200. Leaders may assist participants in making reservations.

● Visas, passports, and other travel documents

● Travel insurance

● Beverages such as beer, wine, sodas, fruit juices, etc. ● Souvenirs

● Personal effects such as snacks, batteries, toiletries, camera chargers, electrical adapters, and other supplies

● Meals prior to Day 2, and after breakfast on Day 16

Registration We anticipate a group size of 18 people, including the 2 leaders. This trip is likely to fill quickly. If you are interested, you should apply as soon as possible. When registration is complete, we will send all participants the names, addresses, and phone numbers of all those going on the trip. A waiting list will be established if the trip is full.

To apply: Complete, and submit the application: Application Download, complete, and submit (by post or email) the following documents:

● Confidential medical form (required) ● Acknowledgement and Assumption of Risk and Release form

(required) ● Supplemental Medical Questionnaire (optional) Forms for Applicants

Mail your $2000 deposit check (payable to Appalachian Mountain Club) to:

Ron Janowitz 88 West Haven Road Manchester, NH 03104

You will not be accepted, and your check will not be deposited until all documents / deposits have been received; references have been checked; and leaders have determined by telephone conversation with you that you and the trip are a good match.

Cancellation Policy

The AMC Adventure Travel cancellation policy is based on the fact that your cancellation may not raise the cost to the other participants or to the leaders. Once you are notified the trip is declared to run as scheduled, the minimum cancellation fee is $200. If actual costs (expenses already incurred on your behalf and any unavoidable future expenses that will be incurred as a result of your registration and cancellation) are higher, they will be assessed instead, unless they can be applied toward another acceptable participant. Should the leaders be able to replace you, you may be charged a reduced penalty. This will generally not be determined until after the trip. Failure to make trip payment(s) in a timely manner will be considered a cancellation.

Red-billed ox-pecker

On rare occasions AMC Adventure Travel may need to cancel all or a portion of a trip due to force majeure [e.g. terrorism, local health conditions, natural disaster, changes in local regulatory environment, etc]. In the event of such a cancellation, your trip fee will be refunded less any trip expenses already incurred plus any non-cancellable future trip expenditures. AMC Adventure Travel is not responsible for additional expenses incurred by you in preparing for the trip (including non-refundable air tickets, visa fees, gear or medical expenses, etc.

AMC Mission AMC Adventure Travel trips are run in a manner supportive of and consistent with the conservation, recreational and educational principles and mission of the Club. Trip leaders encourage participant conduct consistent with Leave No Trace environmental and conservation principles and local regulations.

Risks and Safety (from our Guiding Company) It is important to note that in almost 50 years of our teams combined experience in guiding and tracking potentially dangerous animals we have never had to use our rifles in self-defense. Encounters like this are rare but can happen. Our goal is to continue with this record! Whether you are at home, in your garden, or on an African journey, there is an element of risk. Below is some information which may be important to you:

● All of our guides are qualified first aiders. ● Good, private, local hospitals, ambulances, helicopter air lift facilities and excellent doctors are

accessible throughout the trip. ● Malaria does occur in our area, although in the winter (May to September) it is comparatively

rare, with no incidences thus far amongst our participants. But, please consult with your doctor and/or travel clinic for definitive advice. CDC website for South Africa: https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/south-africa

● We recommend getting an updated tetanus shot and that you consult with your doctor or travel clinic about other vaccinations. Rabies, hepatitis, typhoid, and yellow fever vaccinations are not required for our region of South Africa, but please check if you travel through other countries about their requirements.

● Drinking water is safe in South Africa in most instances, but there will always be the option to purchase drinking water if this is your preference. (AMC encourages participants to filter or sterilize drinking water, rather than to buy plastic bottles.)

● Always bring personal medicines; bring them on safaris or walks. ● In areas with dangerous game

safety, briefings and other discussions will be had to prevent unnecessary risk, and armed guides will accompany all such walks.

Trip Leadership

Ron Janowitz, Leader: Ron lives in New Hampshire and regularly hikes in the White Mountains. He has been leading AMC Adventure Travel trips for ten years. He has led multiple AMC trips to southern Utah, and trips to Olympic National Park, Sedona, the Cascade Mountains, Death Valley, Idaho, Slovakia, Patagonia, Peru, Scotland, India, Switzerland, Ireland, Italy, Albania and Slovenia. He looks forward to sharing this educational African wildlife experience with the participants on this trip. ron@ronjanowitz.com; 603-625-9848

Claudine Kos, CoLeader: Claudine grew up in Massachusetts and has been leading Boston Chapter trips since 2008. She became an Adventure Travel leader in 2019 after co-leading a trip to the Matterhorn region of Switzerland. She summited all of the Catskill 3500 peaks and most of the NH 4000 footers in winter. She has hiked in Australia, Austria, Bulgaria, Canada, Corsica, France, Ireland, Italy, Nepal, Patagonia, Peru, Poland, and Scotland. She is excited about helping to give participants the opportunity to experience the diversity of animal and plant life in the South African bush. claudinekAMC@gmail.com; 617-999-9759

Rhinos and giraffes

What to bring 1. Bush style neutral colored clothing, preferably not white or yellow…subdued blues, greens, browns

are best 2. Walking boots or hikers, and short gaiters 3. Binoculars (good ones will help for serious birders) 4. Camera (a simple point and shoot will suffice, but participants often regret not bringing a larger

DSLR when they spot spectacular or rare wildlife) 5. Pocket knife or multi-tool if you think it may be useful (not in your carry-on luggage) 6. Backpack (a small one for day walks to carry your food, water, etc.) 7. 2 one-liter water bottles and/or hydration system, as well as a water filter or sterilizer (although

everywhere we go we will have access to potable water) 8. Sleeping bag and Pillow for Ngala Camp (30 degree bag) 9. Laundry bag, clothes line and clips 10. Biodegradable soap and drain stopper for washing some items in the sink 11. Headlamp and extra batteries 12. Power bank / Solar power bank 13. Electrical adapter (Type M) some come with USB connector for charging your phone 14. Any books regarding the bush (although we have a comprehensive library at Ngala Camp) 15. Any reading books/novels for during your down time 16. Flip flops or other comfortable shoes 17. Toiletries, hand sanitizer and personal medicines 18. Personal first aid kit 19. Towel for showering and for the pool 20. Snacks and drinks (if you need them for between meals or on walks, items such as dry fruit,

chocolates, energy drinks etc. – these are for selected venues and can be obtained locally) 21. Warm layers for hikes in the mountains 22. Sun hats and sunscreen 23. Insect repellent 24. PASSPORT 25. Alarm 26. Swimsuit 27. Notebooks and pens