Spring Home

• Building • Remodeling • Gardening • Landscaping

Supplement to the Wadena Pioneer Journal/Intercom April 14, 2012

Page 2 | April 14, 2012 Spring Home Supplement to the Wadena Pioneer Journal

Home improvement projects have become de rigueur for today’s homeowners. Be it a kitchen remodel or the ever popular man cave project, home improvement projects re-main a goal for many homeowners.

As enticing as a home improvement project might be, no project can be successful until a budget has been established. The right budget will keep homeowners from going deep into debt when improving their homes, ensuring that, upon the project’s completion, they can fully enjoy their revamped castles without the specter of significant debt hanging omi-nously over their heads.

Before beginning a home improvement project, home-owners can take the following things into consideration.

• Personal finances: It sounds simple, but homeowners must examine their finances before starting a home improve-ment project. Just because a bank will loan out money for a project doesn’t mean the project is affordable. Homeowners should compare their monthly expenses with their incomes, and then determine what’s left that might be able to go to-ward a project. Monthly expenses include everything from groceries to mortgage payments. When the comparison between monthly expenses and monthly income has been made, homeowners can get a grasp of just what they can and cannot afford.

• Credit score: Many homeowners finance home im-provement projects with loans from the bank. Particularly in

the current economy when banks are being forced to tighten lending requirements, securing such loans isn’t easy. Home-owners with significant credit card debt should eliminate such debt before beginning a project. Doing so serves mul-tiple purposes. First and foremost, eliminating outstanding debt will free up more money to allocate toward the project. Eliminating debt will also make loan applicants more at-tractive to prospective creditors, increasing their chances of securing a loan and a lower interest rate.

• The project’s priority: Budgeting a home improve-ment project also involves being honest as to just how nec-essary the project is. For example, a man cave might be a dream project, but should it be a priority over other things around the house? If wear and tear is taking its toll on the roof, for instance, the money going toward the man cave should probably be allocated to replacing the roof instead. If a project is low on the priority list but high on the want list, re-examine those projects higher up on the priority list to determine if they are more deserving of immediate attention and funds than vanity projects.

• Overrun costs: Not every home improvement proj-ect will come in at or under budget. Many, in fact, go over budget due to a host of factors. Homeowners should not be caught off guard when a project goes over budget. In-stead, plan for the project to go over budget and expect such frustration. Allocate extra money in the original budget for

overrun costs. This will reduce stress and frustration, and if the project comes in under budget, then there’s extra money when the project is completed.

Things to consider when budgeting home improvement projects

Before beginning a home improvement projects, homeowners should construct a budget to ensure the project is a success.

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Spring HOME April 14, 2012 | Page 3

Replacing a roof is a costly venture few homeowners look forward to. According to Remodeling magazine’s 2010-11 “Cost vs. Value” report, the national average cost of a roof replacement is nearly $22,000, a costly endeavor considering the tenuous nature of the economy. What’s more, homeowners who choose more upscale roofing materials can expect to spend almost $40,000 on their roofs.

Such costs make it no small wonder that many homeowners fear the dreaded diagno-sis that their home needs a new roof. While there’s little homeowners can do to reduce the cost of a roof replacement, there are warning signs homeowners can look for that might indicate a roof replacement is on the horizon. Recognition of these signs can help homeowners be more financially prepared should the day come when the roof needs to be replaced.

1. The presence of algaeIf the roof has lots of dark streaks and

stains clinging to it, that is likely algae, which can grow on the roof for quite awhile. Algae does not necessarily do any damage to a roof, but it does do some damage to a home’s physical appearance, as algae on the roof is not very pleasing to the eye. Algae is most often found on the roofs of homes located in climates that have warm, humid summers. If algae is a problem on your roof, spray washing with a mixture of water and bleach can effectively remove it.

2. Buckling shinglesLike algae, buckling shingles are another

unsightly problem on a roof. But buckling shingles are more than just an eyesore, they actually might indicate significant prob-lems. When shingles buckle, that’s typically because hot air from the attic is forcing the shingles away from the home. Buckling shingles also indicate that the roof is poorly ventilated, which can take years off the roof’s life expectancy while driving up home cooling costs along the way.

3. Granule lossGranule loss is typically a byproduct of

normal shingle wear and tear that results from inclement weather, such as hail. Older roofs might experience granule loss, but granule loss can also occur on a new roof if a defective roofing product was used. Any granule loss, even if slight, should be addressed, as the side effects of granule loss include a weakened roof and leaking. If granule loss is not addressed, the con-sequences could be severe the next time a storm occurs.

4. MoldUnlike the warning signs already dis-

cussed, mold is not visible on the outside of the home. Instead, homeowners should look in the attic of a home to see if there is any mold growth. If there is, the roof is likely leaking, and the health risks of mold growth in a home are substantial. Mold is not nec-essarily easy to detect, so a professional in-spection might be in order if mold growth is suspected. If a professional determines mold is, in fact, present, then the mold will need to be removed and all options, including a roof replacement, must be considered to keep mold from coming back.

5. Roof rotPerhaps the most discouraging sign a

homeowner can see on his or her roof is roof rot. Roof rot appears when a roof is in considerable decay and, if not addressed, its consequences can stretch far beyond the roof, damaging other parts of the home thanks in large part to water getting through the roof. If roof rot is either not noticed or just ignored, it won’t take long for water to get through the roof and blaze a destructive path through the rest of the home.

Homeowners might fear a full roof re-placement because of the cost associated with such a project. But if ignored, problems with a roof could eventually prove far more costly than the price of replacing the roof.

Five signs your roof might be wearing down

Should a roof exhibit any signs of decay, homeowners should address those issues immediately to avoid further damage.

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A roof is the primary de-fense a home has against the elements. It provides protec-tion against wind, rain and snow, as well as shields the interior from the blazing heat. A compromised roof cannot do its job properly. There are many different roofing mate-rials available these days -- each of which carries with it a certain length of usefulness.

Most roofs can last any-where from 25 to 40 years, depending on the material composition. Homeowners may know it’s time to replace a roof without even ventur-ing out on the roof. Ceiling leaks or discoloration can indicate it’s time to replace a roof. Check for sagging ceil-ing material on the top floors of the home if there is no at-tic. Wet or darkened wood or rusty nails in the attic could be signs. Rafters may channel leaks away from their original source, so it’s best to do a thorough check anytime wet-ness or discoloration is evi-dent anywhere in the home.

Once the decision to install a new roof is made, home-owners must decide between the different roofing materials. Research is necessary to find a roof that will be the right price and meet the homeowner’s needs. Here are common roofing materials.

• Asphalt shingles: This is the type of roof most homeowners first think of when envisioning a roofing project. The three-tab asphalt shingle is the most commonly used roofing material. The economic value

it offers is why this roof is one of the most popular. However, even though shingles are available in many different colors, home-owners seeking something unique may want to select a different roofing option.

• Architectural shingle: Similar to an asphalt shingle, the architectural shingle is made to be thicker and the layers are stag-gered to give the roof a more architectural

look. These shingles are only slightly more expensive than asphalt shingles, which still makes them a good value.

• Wood shakes and shingles: Instead of asphalt, wood makes an ideal roofing material that’s also pleasing to the eye. Over time wood will weather to different shades, which can help the home blend in with the environment. Wood shakes can be expensive to install, and will require periodic cleaning to remove mildew or moss, and may need reoiling for preservation. There are also “fake” wood shingles that are made of com-posite materials that may offer the look of wood without the maintenance.

• Slate: This hard, stone material is very strong and sheds snow and ice very well, which is why it was often used on homes in the Northeast. However, the weight of slate, which requires a more substantial roof structure, and the cost make it less popular among today’s homeowners.

• Metal: This material is an ideal choice for industrial applications or on agricultural or country homes where snow is frequent. A metal roof can range from relatively in-

expensive galvanized steel to lofty copper that is pricey. A properly installed metal roof could last 50 years, which makes it a good value.

• Ceramic: Ceramic tile roofs may be among the most expensive due to the crafts-manship and the installation required for these heavy tiles, but their life expectancy is 60 to 80 years. Chances are you’ll only have to do this type of installation once in a lifetime. Many people are drawn to ceramic roofs because of their beauty. They are com-monly found on Mediterranean-style homes in warm climates. Most tiles are water-proofed and hard-fired so they won’t absorb moisture, also making them safe to use in northern climates.

In general, a roofing job is not a do-it-yourself undertaking. It will require an ex-perienced and licensed contractor. A trusted roofing contractor can be found by exploring listings on the National Roofing Contrac-tor Association Web site at www.nrca.net. Verify contractors prior to hire through or-ganizations like the Better Business Bureau or on Angie’s List.

Research necessary to find the right roof for a home

Shingles are just one of many types of roofing materials.

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Supplement to the Wadena Pioneer Journal Spring HOME April 14, 2012 | Page 5Lawn care tips for first-time homeowner

Few things are as enjoyable for parents and grandparents as watching their children and grandchildren play. As cherished as such playtime can be, it can quickly turn into a memory adults and children alike would pre-fer to forget if an injury occurs.

Playground accidents vary in severity. Some produce just a scrape or a scratch, while more drastic accidents can lead to bro-ken bones or even death. And where those accidents occur might come as a surprise to parents. Ten years ago, a study conducted by the Consumer Product Safety Commis-sion discovered more deaths occurred on backyard playground equipment than on public playgrounds. A 2009 study from the CPSC found that 40 deaths were associated with playground equipment between 2001 to 2008, the majority of which were the result of hangings or asphyxiations.

Naturally, parents aware of such statistics are concerned, particularly those who want to erect a playground for their children on their own property. When building a home playground for children, parents should con-sider the following factors.

Location, location, location!A home playground’s location is very

important. When deciding where to put a playground, consider its accessibility. Is the playground easily reached should an ac-cident occur? Can children be seen playing from a nearby window? Should an accident occur, is the playground within earshot of the home? Kids often play on a home play-ground while their parents are inside, so be sure to locate the playground close enough to the home where you can see and hear your kids from the house, and in a spot that’s easy to get to should an accident occur.Equipment

Though most parents would love to build their children a home playground that rivals the nearby amusement park, some equip-ment has historically proven to be more dangerous than others. A 2009 report from the CPSC indicated that climbers were as-sociated with 23 percent of all playground injuries while swings were associated with 22 percent. When installing equipment, be sure everything is installed in strict adher-ence to the manufacturer’s instructions.

SurfacesAccording to the CPSC, 67 percent of

playground accidents between 2001 and 2008 involved falls or equipment failure. Most kids are going to fall once or twice when playing on the playground. Parents can plan for such falls and minimize their child’s injury risk by installing impact-absorbing surfaces beneath the playground. Such surfaces are the standard at many public playgrounds and can make the difference be-tween a simple fall or one that results in bro-ken bones or a trip to the emergency room.Inspection

Kids often like to play rough, and as a result playgrounds commonly take quite a beating. Even if equipment was sturdy at in-stallation and was installed to the letter of the manufacturer’s instructions, parents should routinely inspect equipment to ensure it’s holding up to the wear and tear of children. Ask kids to let you know immediately if any-thing feels loose or isn’t working properly.

For more information, visit the Consumer Product Safety Commission at www.cpsc.gov.

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Horticulture enthusiasts and bird watch-ers around the region will have an opportu-nity for education and experiencing nature at the Sky Dance Plant Swap and Sky Dance Cafe to be held Saturday, April 28 at Green Island in Wadena.

Sculptor Kent Scheer said he hopes peo-ple around the region – not only the Wadena area – will be drawn to the event, which is organized with the help of the Sustainable Farming Association of Central Minnesota and the Wadena Garden Club.

“The plant swap is going to be an oppor-tunity for people from the general region to bring in plants and plant materials to trade with other avid gardeners and sustainable farmers,” Scheer said.

Cuttings, seedlings, seeds, plant divi-sions, potted plants, houseplants, books, tools and fertilizers are among the items which can be traded.

He said it would be the first event of its scale in this area.

Scheer said the idea for the plant swap came from Barter Fest in Hewitt, and the up-coming event at Green Island has a similar concept.

The event will happen rain or shine. Scheer said it if it is rainy or drizzly, it will be good for the plants, so they “can’t com-plain.”

There will be spaces for people to bring their own tables, buckets, chairs and items for the swap.

The whole plant swap goes from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

At 11 a.m., there will be an apples and northern fruits roundtable discussion.

The Sky Dance Plant Swap is part of the Sustainable Farming Association’s 100 Or-chards Project, and at 1 p.m., there will be a half-hour introduction workshop on this project.

At 1:30 p.m., author Paula Westmore-land will read and sign copies of her book “This Perennial Land.” The book concerns agriculture in the Blue Earth watershed of southern Minnesota.

At 2:30 p.m., Linda Meschke will run a workshop on productive conservation, third crops, multi-functional landscapes and Rural Advantage.

Scheer said people interested in par-ticipating in the plant swap should contact Green Island so they can make a master list of all the items people intend to have avail-able, and to reserve a space for trading.

The daytime event is free partly through

the support of the Sustainable Farming As-sociation.

Evening will bring an opportunity for up to see the American woodcock perform its aerial courtship dance on the Green Island grounds.

“They’re both happening on the same day, but that’s a little bit more of a birder’s event,” Scheer said.

At 7:15 p.m., the Sky Dance Cafe pre-sentation will start with a presentation by M State instructor Christian Breczinski on this bird’s natural history, environmental needs

and population status. Wine, cheese and des-serts will be served.

A little before 8 p.m., the group will move to where the birds are expected to do their sky dance.

“We have several different woodcocks, and they routinely do their display, or their sky dance, about ten minutes before dark,” Scheer said.

He said it is a rare opportunity because it is easy and handicap accessible to get to the display grounds – typically one would have to wade through shrubs and brush and get

one’s feet wet to see something like this.Space for the birding event is limited to

20 people, and some spots have already been taken, so people interested should make res-ervations. Suggested donation to defray food and costs for this evening event is $10.

To sign up for a free space at the daytime Plant Swap and/or a spot at the evening Sky Dance Cafe, contact Scheer or Vicki Chepulis at (218) 631-3084 or [email protected].

Sky Dance Plant Swap set April 28 at Green Island

Photo by Rachelle KlemmeKent Scheer stands by a sign announcing the plant swap at Green Island April 28.

Rachelle Klemme [email protected]

Supplement to the Wadena Pioneer Journal Spring HOME April 14, 2012 | Page 7

Few harbingers of spring are more spec-tacular to look at than the variety of butterflies that take to the skies after they emerge from chrysalis.

Although it is widely known that butter-flies and moths go through a metamorphosis to turn into their finished forms, many are unaware just how many steps it takes for a butterfly to be ready to fly.

1. A butterfly begins its life as an egg, which a female butterfly lays on a particular plant that the species of butterfly prefers to eat. This is called a host plant. Butterflies are very particular about the type of plant that they eat. Certain species will only eat one type of plant or closely related varieties.

2. When a butterfly hatches from the egg, it is called a larva, or a first instar caterpillar. The insect is very small and does nothing but eat from the host plant.

3. Caterpillars are voracious eaters, and they grow very quickly. The trouble is that their skin cannot grow. A new, larger skin must be formed. To do this the caterpillar must molt its old skin so that the new, larger skin can emerge. As it eats, a caterpillar will go through a few stages depending on the spe-cies. It may become a second, third, fourth, and fifth instar caterpillar.

4. A caterpillar that has molted several times may look very different from its initial larval form. It will be much larger and may have different colors and features.

5. During the final molt, the discarded skin will become part of the chrysalis that will house the caterpillar as it pupates. The cater-pillar spins a silk girdle that attaches it to a particular location, either on a tree branch or a plant stem.

6. Contrary to popular belief, butterflies are not formed in cocoons. Their pupa is called a chrysalis. Only some varieties of moths trans-form inside of a cocoon. In the chrysalis, the caterpillar is undergoing a rapid transforma-

tion. The chewing mouthparts are turning into the sucking mouthparts of a butterfly. Wings and antennae are also forming. The pupa stage is not merely a hibernation for the caterpillar. It is a time of very active growth.

7. About 10 to 14 days later the butterfly will emerge from the chrysalis. Upon doing so the wings will be wet and small. The butterfly then pumps fluids through the wings to ex-pand them. It also needs to get used to flying. A recently hatched butterfly is very vulnerable until its wings are ready and dry.

8. An adult butterfly eats nectar and repro-duces to begin the life cycle anew. Relatively speaking, a butterfly has a short life span. Some species live only a few days. Others may live up to a year. This can make view-ing a spectacularly hued butterfly in a spring garden even more poignant for the observer.

More than 700 species of butterflies are found in North America. In order to attract them to the backyard, homeowners can plant wildlife that nurtures all stages of the meta-morphosis.

Adult butterflies looking for nectar will seek out plants in the sunlight; rarely do they feed in the shade. Plants should have red, yellow, orange, pink, or purple blossoms. Flat-topped or clustered flowers are preferred, as are short flower tubes that enable the but-terfly’s proboscis to fit in easily.

Butterflies are a spring spectacle

Butterflies undergo an amazing transforma-tion into the delicate, winged creature that graces spring days.

This year we have expe-rienced an unusual March spring. We have been out in our gardens wanting to do our spring maintenance, but won-dering if it is too early. And yes, in central Minnesota it is best to wait into April to start our garden clean-up. With the cooler temperatures this past week, we realize that there will be several nights that are going to be cold and we don’t want our plants exposed to the harsh temperatures. Some April things to do:

• Garden clean-up: First get rid of any remains of annual plants or flowers that are littering your garden. If you didn’t prune back your perennials last fall, now is the time to do this. (I like to leave the clean-up until spring because the old foliage dies down and covers the crown of the plant and helps to protect it from the freezing tem-peratures of winter.) It is fine to leave this old foliage in place until you see the new growth starting. It serves as protection on those cold nights. However, when the new growth be-gins it usually becomes entangled with last year’s foliage if it is not removed.

• Evergreen and semi-evergreen pe-rennials: These are plants like coral bells, bearded iris, wintergreen, bergenia and boxwoods. They are plants that never really go dormant, and stay green. However in the spring they need some trimming up from the wear and tear of winter, and also to encour-age new growth to begin.

• Fertilizing and spreading compost: This is a good time to spread a little 10-10-10 fertilizer in a circle 6 to 10 inches around the crown of each perennial plant. Never put fertilizer directly on the crown of the plant as it may burn it. When it rains the fertilizer will slowly work its way down into the roots of the plant. Also you can take compost and spread around the base of each plant and gently work it into the top couple inches of soil. Compost is like gardeners’ gold!

• Ornamental grasses: Ornamental grasses have real value for winter interest, but it is important to get them cut down as soon as the season warms up so that the new growth can begin. Since we live in Zone 3, many of the ornamental grasses do not sur-vive our winter (however this winter may be an exception it was not a regular zone 3 winter).

• Weeding and compost: Early spring and after rain is the best time to pull weeds.

The damp soil makes it much easier to pull weed seedling. Do not compost weeds; they will come back to haunt you because you will be giving them the best growing medium ever. Unless the old foliage you removed shows signs of disease or seed heads it can go into the compost pile. There should always be two compost piles. Start a new compost pile for this season. Last year’s compost pile should be turned and most of it should be ready for you

to use in your garden this year.• Dividing and transplanting: Spring is

the ideal time to transplant. You can dig that perennial up to transplant as soon as you be-gin to see the crown sprouting. If you check your perennials this should be happening about now. In the cool soil temperatures, the plants do not grow quickly, however when you divide a plant, the roots especially like these cool temperatures and can get a good start. This is the time of the year when peren-nials really want to grow.

• Mulching and edging: Mulch does wonderful things for your garden: it con-serves water, keeps the soil cool for the roots of the plant, decomposes so it continually feeds the soil, and smothers weeds. Mulch-ing is one of the last things you do for spring clean-up, so wait until the end of April. The soil should warm up before you start to re-plenish the old mulch. As the plants begin to grow pull back the mulch about 4 inches from around the base of each plant so the plant has room to expand and grow. Keep the mulch close so if you need to; the plant can be covered if the temperature drops. This is the time you can edge around beds to re-define the garden from the lawn and in the process get rid of grasses and weeds that are trying to invade your garden. This defining line and mulch really serves to set off your garden and make each individual plant stand out.

• Dream: Think about what you want your garden to look like, what needs to change, or be removed and if there is some-thing new you want to try. Often when you get out there you get many new ideas. Enjoy!

Kyle Schulz is a Wadena County Master Gardener from Sebeka, and the regular gar-dening columnist for the Wadena Pioneer Journal.

April tasks for your garden

Kyle SchulzMaster Gardener

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Roof can determine proper colors for home(MS) — Show me the color! That’s become one of the

most common requests for homeowners in today’s market-place as people look to add more colorful features to their homes as part of remodeling and new construction projects.

“A well-chosen color scheme for a home’s exterior can bring out architectural details, downplay flaws and enhance the overall look of the home,” says Kate Smith, president of Sensational Color. “I always recommend starting from the top down when considering the colors for a home. Start with the roof, work down to the siding, then consider the windows, entry door and trim.”

When offering color consultations on home exteriors, Smith begins with the roof. “Depending on the style of a home, as much as 40 percent or more of the visual you get when looking at a house is the roof,” says Smith, a color consultant for DaVinci Roofscapes. “The more roof that is shown, the more important it is to allow the roof color to help define the home’s style.

“I’m a great fan of color blends for roofs, which you can easily find in polymer roofing products. When you select blends with different shades of a color or two in it, the entire roof seems to merge and unify the home exterior. This soft-ens the roof visually and provides you with more long-term options for accent colors to ‘pull out’ from the roofing blend color.”

After determining a roof color, Smith will then look at the siding of the home to determine how the texture plays into the overall home’s appeal. Fixed features like stone, brick and stucco need to be considered, along with paint colors for some exteriors.

Moving to the windows, Smith believes a growing trend for homeowners is to select energy-efficient vinyl framed windows with color exteriors to complement the overall look of a home’s exterior.

“There are product lines from Simonton Windows for both replacement and new construction windows and patio doors that offer unique color options such as Brick, Pine,

Chocolate, Bronze, Cream and Driftwood,” says Smith. “These frame colors, when matched with trim pieces such as crossheads, shutters and mouldings, create stunning ac-cents. I’ve seen that urethane pieces from Fypon accept paint colors extremely well and can help to make the win-dows and doors more focal features of the home.”

Both garage and entry doors are also primary products that beg for color on a home’s exterior. According to Smith, having a door that is painted in a bright, warm color can focus attention on the welcoming aspect of a home.

“Generally, if a garage door is clearly visible from the street, it’s best to blend its color to the siding and trim,” says Smith. “When the garage is in line with the front door or behind the home, you can potentially add more color. But, keep in mind that you want the main entry door to ‘pop’ more than the garage, so reserve your key color push for that area of the home.”

One of the easiest ways to add color to the front door is to select an entryway especially designed for painting. The Classic-Craft Canvas Collection from Therma-Tru features smooth, paintable surfaces on fiberglass doors with emboss-ment details so that homeowners can select the paint color they wish to accent their energy-efficient entryway.

“Color fascinates all of us, but some people are afraid to make a mistake by using the wrong colors,” says Smith. “If you have a Colonial-style home with a blend of grays on a roof and white or cream siding, you can easily make the house details pop out with red window frames and a red front door. Or, you can have an Arts-and-Crafts style house with an Aberdeen blend of five neutral colors on the roof that flows down to a rustic wood siding. Deep green accents around the windows, trim and entry door would perfectly accent that type of home.”

Visit www.sensationalcolor.com for more insights into exterior colors for the home and to download the free “How to Pick the Perfect Colors for Your Home’s Exterior” guide.

The bronze exterior frame on this Simonton window, high-lighted by white Fypon millwork, provides the perfect accent for this home’s exterior paint color.

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Most homeowners can identify with the dilemma of a cracked sidewalk. In addition to being a safety hazard, a cracked sidewalk can also be an eyesore. Whether strolling to the backyard garden or walking to your home’s en-tryway, a cracked sidewalk can catch your eyes for all the wrong reasons. Fortunately, repairing a cracked sidewalk isn’t very difficult.

• Enlarge the crack. The first thing to do when repairing cracks that are bigger than a hairline crack is to enlarge the crack. Use a chisel and hammer to enlarge the crack along its entire length.

• Undercut the crack. When repairing a crack, you want to undercut the crack. Under-cutting means you will be making the crack wider at the bottom than at the top. When it’s time to lay new concrete, undercutting will help create a stronger bond between the new con-crete and the old.

• Remove loose material. Once the crack has been undercut, remove any loose material, then brush the cleaned area with a wire brush to be sure no residual materials are still there.

• Apply a concrete adhesive. A concrete adhesive isn’t a necessity, but it will help the new concrete hold when the time comes to lay it down. Once the adhesive has been brushed into the undercut area, allow it to dry until it has a

slightly sticky feel.Homeowners who prefer not to use a con-

crete adhesive should moisten the area that needs repairing with water. Just moisten the area, as you don’t want any standing water on the area that needs to be repaired with new con-crete.

• Apply the concrete as directed. When using a pre-mixed concrete patch, all you will likely need to add is water. For larger cracks, some homeowners prefer to mix their own patch. When mixing your own patch, you will likely need to add sand and/or gravel. Follow the cement manufacturer’s instructions if mix-ing your own patch.

• Tightly tamp the patch into the under-cut area. All areas should be completely filled.

• Smooth the repaired area down. As the mixture starts to set, use a trowel or wooden float to smooth down the repaired area.

• Allow the repaired area to dry. Give the repaired area a couple of hours to dry. After roughly two hours, cover the repaired area with boards or plastic sheeting.

• Keep the area covered. The repaired area should be kept covered for roughly five days. During this period, wet the repaired area once a day. This allows the concrete to cure.

Conquering those sidewalk cracksGarden compost can be

a garden’s best friend. Com-post promotes soil health and enables plants grow to their best ability.

Many home gardeners prefer to make their own compost. It is easily achieved with items that normally would be discarded, includ-ing many items that ardent gardeners may be unaware of.

Common Compost Ma-terials

Items like eggshells, banana peels, apple cores, paper, leaves, and coffee grounds are often included in a home compost pile. These items break down by natural bacteria and produce a rich fertilizer for plants.

Lesser-Known Com-post Materials

There are many things that can be turned into com-post. Here’s a list of com-

mon items that can be turned into compost and avoid the landfill.

1. pet hair2. paper napkins3. lint4. pine needles5. matches6. chicken manure7. old herbs8. sawdust9. weeds10. hair clippings11. tea bags12. paper towels13. bird cage cleanings14. stale bread15. leather16. old pasta17. pea vines18. grapefruit rinds19. newspaper20. tissues21. cotton swabs with

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47 things you can compost

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Few things are anticipated more in spring than the arrival of new leaves on the trees and budding flowers in the garden. A landscape awash with fresh colors can brighten the spirit and make anyone want to head outdoors.

There are many different plants that begin to show their colors in the spring. A number of perennials, annuals and trees begin to flower or show new sprouts come the spring-time. Here are some plants that can be planted for springtime enjoyment.Annuals

Looking for first signs of color? Look no further than these wonderful annuals.

• Alyssum: Starting in April, this cascading bounty of tiny flowers offers a sweet aroma that attracts butterflies.

• Dianthus: These vivid flowers also attract butterflies and are often a cottage garden staple.

• Gypsophila: Also known as baby’s breath, these deli-cate flowers can serve as filler in any landscape. Pink and white varieties are available.

• Impatiens: One of the best-known plants for the gar-den, these annuals come in scores of colors and can gener-ally tolerate full sun to full shade.

• Larkspur: Belonging to the buttercup family, these flowers bloom in shades of white to violet.

• Pansy: These flowers are some of the earliest spring bloomers, arriving alongside spring bulbs like tulips.

• Petunias: Petunias put on a show of color through the entire season, making them a popular bedding flower.Perennials

These plants will come back year after year and offer spring shows.

• Cherry blossom: The flowers that sprout on cherry trees are some of the first signs of spring. Their pink or white buds are often a spectacle, so much so that towns and cities hold cherry blossom festivals.

• Columbine: These beautiful blooms attract butterflies and can be a nice part of a garden bed.

• Jacob’s ladder: Variegated foliage that is dappled with violet-colored flowers can add a sweet smell and visual in-terest to the garden.

• Primrose: These flowers come in a variety of shades, making them versatile in any garden. They also tend to at-tract butterflies and hummingbirds.

• Sweet violet: These fragrant flowers are edible as well as attractive. These plants can self-plant, so unless a gar-dener wants them to spread, they should be kept contained.

Annuals can provide fresh colors for spring landscape

Cherry blossoms are one of the earlier signs spring has arrived.

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A lush lawn and garden is a part of many homeowners’ dream home. A lawn that emanates green and a garden that’s home to succulent vegetables is desirable to home-owners across the country.

Of course, such lawns and gardens take time and effort, and a host of factors will determine if a lawn and garden is something homeowners should be proud or ashamed of. One such factor is soil health. Healthy soil helps deliver food and water to plants, allowing them to thrive and add aesthetic appeal to homes. To maintain healthy soil, homeowners should consider the following tips.

• Get the soil tested. When address-ing soil health, it’s best to first get the soil tested. A soil test will show which type of soil you have as well as its makeup and structure, and just how good or bad it cur-rently is. Such tests can also reveal if the soil is missing any essential nutrients. Some soil tests can be conducted by novice green-thumbers, while others are best left to the local agricultural bureau. These tests are a good investment, as they will remove the guesswork from fertilizing. Without a soil test, many homeowners end up overdoing it when fertilizing, which can prove a costly mistake. Take a soil sample a few months before you plan to plant or landscape to give yourself enough time to apply the test’s rec-ommendations to your lawn and garden.

• Avoid wet soil. When soil is wet, don’t walk or drive over it and keep the kids out of the yard. When wet soil is walked on or driven over, the soil gets packed down, pushing out air and making it more difficult and sometimes impossible for water to pass through the soil. That makes it hard for roots to grow. Gardeners who plan to plant this gardening season should wait for the soil to dry before planting.

• Use well-drained soil. Well-drained soil will dry fast and enable oxygen to reach

the root zone, helping build stronger roots as a result. Plants with strong roots are more likely to survive severe weather.

• Use compost. Compost can prove very beneficial to soil health. Organic compost is typically loaded with nutrients that, upon maturity, feed the soil and promote soil health. Biodegradable items like grass clip-pings, leaves and even excess food like ap-ple cores can strengthen the compost. Even worms, which break down compost quickly and add nutrients, can be a valuable addition to organic compost.

• Don’t bash bacteria. Bacteria is often seen as a formidable foe, but some bacteria can actually promote healthy soil. Bacteria decompose plant matter, releasing the nutri-tive value into the soil, and can also break down chemical pesticides. So while bacteria is bad more often than it’s beneficial, some bacteria are quite useful, particularly when it comes to healthy soil.

• Don’t be scared off by slime. Like bacteria, slime has a bad reputation. How-

Ways of maintaining healthy lawn, garden soil abound

Gardeners can take several steps to main-tain soil health.

The 7 easiest vegetables to grow at homeRising costs at the supermarket and wor-

ries about unhealthy pesticides or preserva-tives on foods has led many people to start a vegetable garden at home.

Growing vegetables is easier than one would think. Plus, you don’t need an ex-pansive plot of land to grow a garden. Many popular varieties can be grown right in con-tainers or in compact spaces.

Perhaps you’re wondering what veg-etables are the easiest to grow if this is your first attempt at a food-based garden. There are several to try.

1. Tomatoes: While commonly consid-ered vegetables, tomatoes are actually fruits. But tomatoes can be an integral part of a veg-etable garden. Tomatoes are high in lycopene and other antioxidants. There are also myriad varieties to tempt your palate. Tomatoes can be planted after the soil has thawed and there is no other chance for frost. They’ll require plenty of sunlight. Fruit will be available to harvest toward the latter part of the summer.

2. Zucchini: Zucchini are an Italian squash variety that appear similar to a cu-cumber. They can be green or yellow in coloring. This vegetable is full of potassium, folate and manganese, making it a great ad-dition to your menu. Zucchini take about a month to mature and be ready to harvest. They grow on vines and produce large flow-

ers before bearing fruit.3. Beets: Root vegetables like beets and

radishes work well in the garden as well. The bright purple color of beets indicates they are full of many essential vitamins and minerals. Toss beets in salads or use them in the tradi-tional soup, borscht.

4. Carrots: Another subterranean-grow-ing veggie, carrots require moist soil as they germinate, but as the plants mature need less water. Carrots can be enjoyed in a number of ways and are a staple of cooking year-round.

5. Peas: Peas grow inside the pods of legumes. These plants like moist soil that drains well. Water frequently but make sure the soil doesn’t become flooded if you want peas to flourish.

6. Peppers: Peppers come in so many varieties it’s easy to find ones that appeal to your taste in cooking. Generally peppers thrive in soil high in magnesium. Using compost and Epsom salt in the soil can help achieve the environment peppers desire.

7. Lettuce: Lettuce is another staple and the basis for many salad dishes. Lettuce also tops sandwiches and can be filled and wrapped for other recipe ideas. Seeds should be planted between 8 and 16 inches apart. Water in the morning instead of at night to prevent disease from developing.

ever, veteran gardeners understand that rep-utation isn’t warranted. Slime mold is ugly, and many new gardeners see it and instantly assume it’s bad for their garden. However, slime molds are good for the soil, helping break down dead wood and leaves. They might not add aesthetic appeal, but slime molds do serve a practical and important purpose in maintaining healthy soil.

• Pests can be an ally to healthy soil.

Some garden pests like mites, millipedes and centipedes are incorrectly assumed to be enemies of healthy soil. In fact, such pests can vastly improve soil health. Mites consume dead leaves and additional plant matter, enabling bacteria to more effectively release nutrients into the soil. Millipedes and centipedes are also beneficial to soil, as their droppings improve both the soil’s texture and fertility.

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Gardeners rely on a number of factors when decid-ing on what to plant in their gardens and around their property. One of the most important things to take into consideration is the climate.

Since 1960, the go-to source for climate and relation to agriculture has been the U.S. Department of Agricul-ture’s (USDA) Plant Hardiness Zone map. In 1967, Ag-riculture Canada developed their own map that took into consideration Canadian plant survival data and a wider range of climatic variables. The maps remained constant until now.

In January 2012, the USDA released an updated zone map. The map is now more precise and reflects microcli-mates, heat islands, prevailing wind, elevation, and gener-ally better data. It breaks down the country into 13 unique zones from the previous 11. Individuals who once resided in a particular zone may find that they are now moved into another zone. This updated map has taken into consider-ation climate changes that have occurred between 1976 and 2005. You now may be able to try plants that you may have been skeptical about in the past.

The new map now offers a Geographic Information System, orGIS, -based, interactive format and is specifi-cally designed to be Internet-friendly. The map website also incorporates a “find your zone by ZIP code” function. Static images of national, regional and state maps have also been

included to ensure the map is readily accessible to those who lack broadband Internet access.

The new version of the map includes 13 zones, with the addition for the first time of zones 12 (50-60 degrees F) and

13 (60-70 degrees F). Each zone is a 10-degree Fahrenheit band, further divided into A and B 5-degree Fahrenheit zones.

A hardiness zone describes a geographically defined area in which a specific category of plant life is capable of growing, as defined by climatic conditions, including its ability to withstand the minimum temperatures of the zone. Summer temperatures are not factored into the mix. Therefore, areas with similar winter patterns and average lows may be in the same zone despite having drastically different highs. Hardiness zones may not take into con-sideration snow cover, either. Snow helps insulate the soil and hibernating plants. Therefore hardiness zones are more like guidelines instead of foolproof methods of determining viable plants.

Although a poster-sized version of this map will not be available for purchase from USDA, as in the past, anyone may download the map free of charge from the Internet onto their personal computer and print copies of the map as needed.

When shopping for plants, most will display a hardi-ness zone right on the container to help you determine whether this particular plant will be acceptable outdoors in

your zone. To learn more about hardiness zones, visit www.usda.gov or http://planthardiness.gc.ca.

Maps reveal new plant hardiness zones in United Sates

Hardiness zone maps courtesy of the USDA

Documents

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