8
HIGHLIGHTS HOHENSTEIN IMPULSE THE LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE HOHENSTEIN INSTITUTE www.hohenstein.com Textile research and services 2 st edition 2013 Willy Bogner honoured for his lifetime achievement The renowned ski-racer, film producer and fashion entrepreneur has been awarded the Otto Mecheels Medal There were two reasons to celebrate on 28 October 2013 at the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim, Germany. In addition to the inauguration of the new, 2,580 m² Otto Mecheels building (also see page 7), Willy Bogner, owner of the sportswear company Willy Bogner GmbH & Co. KGaA, was awarded the Otto Mecheels Medal for his contributions and innovations in the textile industry. Dr. Stefan Mecheels, head of the Hohenstein Institute, welcomed about 160 guests to the ceremonial act at the Hohenstein castle. The new building was inaugurated in the first part of the event, with welcoming speeches by Dr. Rainer Haas, district administrator of Ludwigsburg, and Kornelius Bamberger, mayor of the city of Bönnigheim. Then Helmfried Meinel, head of the Ministry of the Environment, Climate Protection and the Energy Sector for the Land of Baden Württemberg, gave a presentation on sustainable textile production within the government's eco-political canon of values. The naming and inauguration ceremony of the new building was handled by Dr. Stefan Mecheels and Dr. Hendrik Brumme, President of Reutlingen University. Carsten Körner, architect of the new construction, handed the symbolic key for the new building Willy Bogner was honoured for his lifetime achievement with the Otto Mecheels Medal for special contributions to science, industry and society. Bogner with the Otto Mecheels Medal. In an entertaining dialogue Markus Wasmeier, two-time Olympic gold medalist in alpine skiing, and Bogner Sport's chief designer Gotthardin Thylmann, as well as Willy Bogner himself, laid out the history of functional sportswear from the first Winter Olympics 1936 to today. Willy Bogner's work as a film-maker and his activity as a camera man including for various James Bond films and his own productions were also presented. Desirée Ditrich [email protected] www.hohenstein.de/pr-522-EN over to Dr. Stefan Mecheels. The special shape of the key was based on the architectural plan of the new building. The visit to Bönnigheim was a return to 71-year old Willy Bogner's professional origins. As a student at the then Hohenstein school in the 1960s, Willy Bogner successfully prepared for his entry into the company founded by his father in 1932 in Munich. In his honorific speech, Dr. Jürgen Weber, former chief executive and chairman at Lufthansa AG, praised Willy Bogner's work and its advancement of sport. Dr. Stefan Mecheels then presented Willy VEHICLE SEATS AND INTERIORS TESTED page 2 page 3 NEW PRODUCT LABEL: TESTED QUALITY "SKIN FLORA NEUTRAL" page 7 CUSTOM-TAILORED FROM A SINGLE SOURCE page 6 NEUROPHYSIOLOGICAL PERCEPTION OF TEXTILES The evolution of functional sportswear from the first Winter Olympics in 1936 until today was well presented. The Otto Mecheels building houses office space, storage areas, a central in-box, and a block- heating station. Multi-talented Willy Bogner was thrilled to receive the award from Dr. Stefan Mecheels.

st edition 2013 Textile research and services …€¦ ·  · 2018-02-20tolerance. The realistic effectiveness tests ... The second step involved fixation using a polymer binding

  • Upload
    letuyen

  • View
    218

  • Download
    6

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

HIGHLIGHTS

HOHENSTEIN IMPULSETHE LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE HOHENSTEIN INSTITUTE

www.hohenstein.comTextile research and services2st edition 2013

Willy Bogner honoured for his lifetime achievementThe renowned ski-racer, film producer and fashion entrepreneur has been awarded the Otto Mecheels Medal

There were two reasons to celebrate on 28 October 2013 at the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim, Germany. In addition to the inauguration of the new, 2,580 m² Otto Mecheels building (also see page 7), Willy Bogner, owner of the sportswear company Willy Bogner GmbH & Co. KGaA, was awarded the Otto Mecheels Medal for his contributions and innovations in the textile industry.

Dr. Stefan Mecheels, head of the Hohenstein Institute, welcomed about 160 guests to the ceremonial act at the Hohenstein castle. The new building was inaugurated in the first part of the event, with welcoming speeches by Dr. Rainer Haas, district administrator of Ludwigsburg, and Kornelius Bamberger, mayor of the city of Bönnigheim. Then Helmfried Meinel, head of the Ministry of the Environment, Climate Protection and the Energy Sector for the Land of Baden Württemberg, gave a presentation on sustainable textile production within the government's eco-political canon of values. The naming and inauguration ceremony of the new building was handled by Dr. Stefan Mecheels and Dr. Hendrik Brumme, President of Reutlingen University. Carsten Körner, architect of the new construction, handed the symbolic key for the new building

Willy Bogner was honoured for his lifetime achievement with the Otto Mecheels Medal for special contributions to science, industry and society.

Bogner with the Otto Mecheels Medal.In an entertaining dialogue Markus Wasmeier, two-time Olympic gold medalist in alpine skiing, and Bogner Sport's chief designer Gotthardin Thylmann, as well as Willy Bogner himself, laid out the history of functional sportswear from the first Winter Olympics 1936 to today. Willy Bogner's work as a film-maker and his activity as a camera man – including for various James Bond films and his own productions – were also presented.

Desirée Ditrich

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-522-EN

over to Dr. Stefan Mecheels. The special shape of the key was based on the architectural plan of the new building.

The visit to Bönnigheim was a return to 71-year old Willy Bogner's

professional origins. As a student at the then Hohenstein school in the 1960s, Willy Bogner successfully prepared for his entry into the company founded by his father in 1932 in Munich.

In his honorific speech, Dr. Jürgen Weber, former chief executive and chairman at Lufthansa AG, praised Willy Bogner's work and its advancement of sport. Dr. Stefan Mecheels then presented Willy

VEHICLE SEATS AND INTERIORS TESTED

page 2 page 3

NEW PRODUCT LABEL:TESTED QUALITY "SKIN FLORA NEUTRAL"

page 7

CUSTOM-TAILORED FROM A SINGLE SOURCE

page 6

NEUROPHYSIOLOGICAL PERCEPTION OF TEXTILES

The evolution of functional sportswear from the first Winter Olympics in 1936 until today was well presented.

The Otto Mecheels building houses office space, storage areas, a central in-box, and a block-heating station.

Multi-talented Willy Bogner was thrilled to receive the award from Dr. Stefan Mecheels.

Page 2 | Impulse | 2/2013

ATTENTION!Neuro-physiological perception of textiles on the skin

Ideally, textiles should not be con-sciously perceived when they are worn, so that we are left unaffect-ed by our clothing. Yet clothing de-sign, the quality of materials and the seams of textiles can demand more attention from the brain than we might like during the working day. People who often wear corpo-rate identity (CI) clothing can tell a pretty tale of labels that rub or scratch and blouses that are too tight.

"The significant influence that the textile layer closest to our skin

has on our faculty of thought has, for the first time, been shown by the

SOFIA study".

In this pilot study, unique in all the world, 24 subjects underwent an EEG brain scan while wearing business clothing. Three different materials were compared to each other: linen as control, a premium double rib made of cotton, and a newly developed business undershirt. All test materials were first subjected to a friction test, because the rubbing of the specimens on human skin provides important clues on textile

perception. The materials were then moved on the hand and underarm of the test subjects using the special SOFIA textile applicator, without the test subjects seeing the sample (blind study). The pressure and speed were selected to reflect how underwear typically moves on the skin. The scientists simultaneously recorded the electrical activity of the brain using a 64 channel EEG. Sounds were played in parallel to the

Textile finishing with antiviral, as well as antibacterial, functions has been developed for the first time within the context of an AiF research project. This technology can be put to use in products found, for example, in kindergartens, day-care centres and hospitals to aid in breaking chains of infection.

The hygiene of hands, textiles and surfaces is paramount to preventing airborne and smear infections.

Hohenstein scientists are looking into surface cleaning in their current research project.

A matter of cleanlinessScientists demonstrate use of textiles with antiviral and antibacterial effect

protect the copper particles from mechanical abrasion. These copper finishings also display good level dying, although there was a light green hue compared to the original light fabric colour. All samples stood up to laboratory tests for skin tolerance.

The realistic effectiveness tests were conducted on different surfaces such as glass, stainless steel and wood, which had been contaminated with viruses and wiped with the readied cleaning towels. The MS2 bacteria virus, an apathogenic surrogate virus, was used as test virus. Its structure and environmental stability is comparable to clinically relevant viruses such as norovirus, poliovirus, hepatitis A and enteroviruses. The readied microfibre towels picked up 91% of the applied viruses, while the concentration of viruses in the towel was reduced by about 90%. Additional tests for effectiveness against bacteria and mildew were carried out in accordance with DIN EN ISO 20743 and EN 14119 standards. The finishes were specifically optimised

effectiveness was combined into one functional textile finishing.

To reach this goal, various organic and anorganic copper compounds in colloidal and nanoparticulate form, as well as copper complexes, were applied in a sol-gel process. The effectiveness of the textile microfibre substrate was optimised using various application techniques such as Foulard and spray methods. The incapacity to activate the test virus was significant, holding up over 15

wash cycles and at the same time abrasion resistant.

A second alternative antiviral finishing of microfibre cloths was achieved by enhancement with copper pigments in a high-temperature exhaustion process. Similar to using disperse dyes, the dispersed copper pigments were applied to the fibre in a weakly acidic medium. The second step involved fixation using a polymer binding agent in a cold padding process to

with the aid of this test set-up. This new functionalisation could also be of interest in household environments, hospitals, nursing and special-care homes, in common

NANO FORUMOn 12/12/2013 the fourth Nano Forum was held at the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim in coop-eration with the ITV in Denkend-orf and the Forschungskuratorium Textil. The wide use of nano par-ticles is a source of public contro-versy. For this reason the results of the research projects "UMSI-CHT" and "Technotox" were the focus of the forum. They are con-cerned with the environmental and health aspects of textiles that have been furnished with nano technology. Experts from various fields gave presentations on the effects of nano technology on human and ecotoxicology. The Nano Forum furthermore provided an ideal platform for exchanging experi-ences and for participants to con-verse with the speakers.

Desirée Ditrich

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/ Nanoforum-2013

measurements. The brain's reaction to the sounds in turn makes it possible to determine the degree to which contact with the material distracted the participants in the study.

The EEG brain scans showed that the test subjects apparently had far lower mental reserves available when rubbed with linen and the double rib product. Yet the reaction of the brain was significantly stronger for the business undershirt. Clearly the

business undershirt distracted those wearing it considerably less than the cotton premium brand and created room in the brain for other thought processes and attention.

Measurements were neutral, meaning that all the test samples were out of test subjects' sight. At the same time, the brain's response to the textile and acoustic stimuli was measured immediately and with no possible interference after a few hundred milliseconds.

On the one hand, the results are relevant to the development and optimisation of specialist clothing that does not needlessly distract wearers, but rather actively supports them in their task, for example in CI wear, military clothing, clothing for air traffic controllers or stock brokers and so on. On the other, researchers working with this method are in position, for the first time, to directly gauge the brain for the potential impact of textiles on concentration and thus reliably predict the acceptability of textiles.

Prof. Dr. Dirk Höfer

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-514-EN

In a research project at the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim, scientists have, for the first time, developed a textile finishing with an antiviral as well as antibacterial function.

The SOFIA study examined the question of how clothing influences our intellectual power and the perceptions of wearers.

"In the long run we are interested in whether

the risk of infection, that is to say the transmission of germs from person to person, can be reduced

through the use of biofunctional textiles".

The test design involved cleaning cloths in which, for the first time, antiviral and antibacterial

"The research project shows that antiviral

cleaning cloths have an effective, hygienic effect and can contribute to

lower germ transfer, for example in pathogens at kindergartens and day-

care centres".

areas (e.g. cafeterias), as well as for protective clothing used in fire brigades, emergency management and the military.

Mihaela Szegedi

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-528-EN

Impulse | 2/2013 | Page 3

Vehicle seats and interiors put to testIndependent laboratories help with optimisation

We spend about 3% of our lives in-side automobiles. Vehicle designers and engineers thus attach special

importance to the design of inte-riors and in particular to seat-

ing. Hohenstein Institute sci-entists, among others, pro-

vide them with support.

Comfortable seats – relaxed drivers

Well-designed vehicle seats con-tribute significantly to road safe-ty. Along with ergonomics, climat-ic comfort is an important factor.

The physiological comfort of vehicle seats can be determined in a laboratory on the basis of four parameters.

Initial heat flow designates the driver's heat perception directly upon first contact with the seat. Breathability indicates how quickly moisture is wicked away from seating material. Heat insulation is the measure of how well a seat warms the vehicle driver at low temperatures and how well it protects against heat accumulation at high temperatures. Moisture buffering shows how much water vapour the seat can absorb without feeling subjectively damp.

Hygiene is fundamentalThe combination of high temperature and moisture make vehicle interiors potential breeding grounds for bac-teria and mould, especially during summer.

Sensory laboratories allow for reproducible quantification of potential odours.

In order to counter bacteria and fungi colonisation and to disrupt potential chains of infection, public transport in particular is increasingly furnished with antimicrobial and antiviral materials.

Hands-on research of the effectiveness of antimicrobial and antiviral fiinishes is taking place in the laboratory. It is equally important to ensure that they pose no threat to passengers.

The experts at Hohenstein Institute also provide a series of standardised and internationally acknowledged testing methods. They have complemented these with a transmission model for pathogens. This model allows for simulation of potential chains of infection and strategic planning for placing functionalised products in vehicles in order to break chains of infection.

Cosy climate The increasing number of allergy suf-ferers and sensitive persons pose new challenges for car manufacturers.It is thus important to eliminate haz-

ardous substances and allergenic po-tentials from the materials employed.

Based on substance-related harm-ful substance tests in accordance with OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, the Hohenstein Institute also offers ef-fect-related tests on the biological safety of products. These tests are especially helpful for textile materi-als that come into direct contact with the body.

such as foils, can optimise their products with the aid of the so-called g-value by specifically targeting energy transmission.

Get the wax out!Acoustic testing determines how well a material can muffle and ab-sorb sound.

Aero-acoustic testing, on the contrary, researches the spectrum

tral photometer to determine spectral reflection of test samples.

The process thus examines which portions of white light are reflected by a material sample, thereby establishing colour perception in the human eye.

In visual colour analysis, research samples are evaluated and compared under standardised light requirements by specially trained employees.

Hohenstein Institute experts regularly share their know-how and experience in this area by giving workshops to employees in the area of quality control. With the aid of a visual test (Farnsworth-Munsell 100-Hue Test) weaknesses in colour perception are eliminated.

Sustainability for people and the environment

In addition to considerations of sus-tainability and its associated bent towards renewable resources, us-ing alternative materials and mate-rial combinations should especially reduce weight.

Another positive effect of using renewable resources is the option of discarding them via environmentally-friendly natural decay. This can be documented with the test on biodegradation. The combination of biologically less degradable materials based on oil, but also the quite sensible, from a hygiene perspective, antimicrobial finishes, can become problematic after vehicles have been withdrawn from service. They often stand in the way of speedy

subsequently analysed for negative changes.

With the production facility certification STeP by OEKO-TEX®, the Hohenstein Institute also offers vehicle manufacturers an instrument for taking sustainability criteria into account when acquiring textile materials and products. This is ensured in the context of on-site audits by our independent auditors.

Keeping a cool headIn order to achieve a cool interior in the summer yet have it cosy warm in the winter, not only climate control but also effective insulation of win-dow surfaces is especially important.

Manufacturers of textiles, windows and laminated glass, including other translucent materials

of frequencies in which materials themselves create noise when they are exposed to an airflow.

As well as capturing the aero-acoustic properties of textile fabrics, locally-triggered causes of air-flow noise can also be detected this way. This knowledge can then be used to further optimise textiles and

components.

Colour classes for advanced learners

The majority of complaints due to colour deviations could be avoided. The use of instrumental and visual colour analysis can ensure that col-our effects will correspond to target values, even on different materials and surfaces. Instrumental colour measurement uses a so-called spec-

and residue-free decay of interior equipment and engine parts.

To do justice to this balancing act, material properties must be precisely analysed and optimised. Here, too, laboratory research at the Hohenstein Institute provides valuable support. Microbiologists use realistic models, for example infest ing test samples with voracious mildews. The material is

Lab research on vehicle seating and interior equipment

Harmful substance testing & research on biological safety • OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 harmful substance tests • Effect-related tests

Hygiene inspections • Odour development • Effectiveness of antimicrobial finishes • Non-hazardous to health• Effectiveness of antiviral finishes

Research on sustainability• Natural decay • STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification

Energy transmission of materials• Determination of g-value

Spectroscopic tests• Instrumental colour measurement • Visual colour analysis • Visual acuity test (Farnsworth-Munsell 100-Hue Test)

Material testing • Fitness for use according to customer specifications• Cleanability • Wear resistance

Acoustic measurements• Acoustic tests• Aero-acoustic tests

Comfort tests• Initial heat flow• Breathability • Moisture buffering• Heat insulation

For long vehicle life Last but not least, requirements for general suitability for use according to customer specifications for interior materials in vehicle construction are very high.

When testing cleanability, various staining substances are rubbed into or pressed onto the test materials in a defined way. Depending on where the materials are installed in the vehicle, cleaning is then performed with a standardised spray or wiping process. In addition to surface materials, the same test procedures can evaluate and optimise agents for cleaning and maintaining vehicles. The standard tests that seat upholstery and trim parts must undergo thus include determining abrasion resistance, tensile and crack resistance and UV resistance, as well as responding to customer requirements.

It is important that not only measuring takes place under new conditions, but that artificially aged test samples also meet requirements.

Hans-Peter Fleischmann

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-531-EN

Visual colour analysis

Page 4 | Impulse | 2/2013

We are family!Neck-and-neck at the naming contest

It is up to the participants to choose from the three proposed names in the "We are family" competition, with Sherlock (38%), Carl (35%) and Isaac (27%) tightly contested.

The vote for the name of the new thermal manikin runs until 31 December 2013 at the Hohenstein Institute. The doll can determine the thermal insulation of textile products, as well as their water vapour resistance as a measure of breathability, in just one measuring cycle. Until now, measurements using the "Charlie" and "Charlene" thermal manikins had to be supplemented with results from the "Hohenstein skin model". The new family member now allows Hohenstein scientists to evaluate the wear comfort of ready-made clothing, bedding items and sleeping bags faster and more efficiently for research purposes or customer projects.

ISAAC – Its manufacturer has given the testing device the type desig-

nation "Newton". The manikins are usually rebaptised by the testing institutes. Could the first name of the great scientist Isaac Newton be

more appropriate?

CARL – Possibly named after Carl Lewis, one of the most successful ath-

letes in the history of sport. Speed and versatility were his trademark.

The same is true of our new test device. Don't you think that's a good

reason to name him after the "Sportsman of the Century"?

SHERLOCK – The legendary Sherlock Holmes and the equally famous

Dr. Watson complemented each other superbly in getting to the bottom

of tricky mysteries. The new thermal manikin and the thermal trans-

mission tester Watson, which was recently put into operation, team up

just as well. Can you even imagine Watson without Sherlock? Then vote

for this name!

Danger in the form of dropsTest of PPE against molten metal splashes

Manufacturers of protective tex-tiles; i.e. personal protective equip-ment (PPE) can now have their products tested at the Hohenstein Institute within 10 to 15 working days*, and for protection against molten metal splashes as well.

Test ing i s conducted in accordance with DIN EN ISO 9185. Testing materials are conditioned for 24 hours in a conditioning room at a specified and standardised temperature and humidity so that the results can be reproduced at any time. Specimens in the test control unit are subsequently clamped into a mounting frame over a special PVC foil. Any damage to the PVC foil in this test set-up represents possible injuries to human skin. According to the prescriptions of the standard, the PVC foil is considered damaged if there is a change of at least 5 mm in width to its character or to perforated holes in the PVC foil. It is also considered damaged if slight staining totalling more than 5 mm in width appears on the foil.

The amount of molten metal required to damage the PVC foil is measured. If no damage to the PVC foil is detected in the first test run, the test is performed again with an increase of 50g to the amount of molten metal. Testing is carried out with increasing amounts of metal until the PVC foil has been damaged. When this point has been reached, the amount of molten metal is reduced in increments of 10 grams

The experts at the Hohenstein Institute have recently started providing testing in accordance with DIN EN ISO 9185 for "resistance of materials to molten metal splash". Another important standard for textile PPE manufacturers is thus available in addition to existing testing.

until no more damage has been detected. In this way the minimum amount of molten metal required to cause damage is determined. The highest value of metal mass that causes no damage, and the lowest value of the molten metal mass that causes damage are recorded, with the average value yielding the "Molten-metal splash index" down to the

gram. This figure is used to create different classes.

*provided that test capacities are avail-

able.

Heiderose Kübler

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-455-EN

Rose-Marie Riedl

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/namingcompetition

e-LearningUpdated webinars in English –

free!

OEKO-TEX®

SUSTAINABLE TEX-TILE PRODUCTION STANDARD (STeP)

Compression test

COMPRESSION MEASUREMENTS & SHAPE EFFECTS

Comparative product testing

DETERGENTS & LAUNDERING

Functionalised textiles

SOUND SCIENCE

Desirée Ditrich [email protected] www.hohenstein.com/e-learning

Charlie I – 1968 Charlene – 2008

Charlie IV – 1994 Isaac? / Carl? / Sherlock? – 2013

Personal protective clothing

BETTER FIT & MORE WEAR COMFORT

FOR HELMETS

The "Education" page of our website provides an overview of the steadily

growing range of webinars.

OEKO-TEX®

BUYING GUIDE

Impulse | 2/2013 | Page 5

NEW INSTITUTE BUILDING

Otto-Mecheels-Bau

Area

•7,200 m² building area = 1 football pitch

•17,500 m3 excavated material = 2,.667 truck loads

•17,000 m3 construction volume = 17 one-family homes

•2,580 m² offices & storage space = space needs for 160 employees

•600 m² window area = 6 four-room homes

•600 m² tiles & stoneware = 10 single-family homes

Block heating station

Block heating station with 200

kW electrical and thermal out-

put (CHPC)

•4 km plumbing = distance from Kirchheim to Bönnigheim

•52,100 l water for indoor temperature = 435 full bathtubs

•300 t reduction of CO2emis-sions = emission reduction of 150 mid-size cars/year

Electrotechnology

•1000 kVA transformer station = connected load for 12 single-family homes

•640 m main cable length = 13 swimming pool lengths

•45 km power lines = distance from Bönnigheim to Stuttgart

•14 km data lines = distance from Bönnigheim to Bietigheim

•700 m fibre optics = 30 tennis court lengths

•520 LED light fixtures = 4,000 100-watt light bulbs

STeP by STePThe first enterprises to obtain certification for sustainable products

After Mattes & Ammann GmbH in July 2013 became the first Ger-man textile

company to be awarded the

new OEKO-TEX® STeP certifi cation for its

environmentally and socially re-sponsible production conditions, two more notable companies have successfully passed the required as-sessment and operational audit by the Hohenstein Institute.

Known for its innovative yarn production, the Gebrüder Otto GmbH & Co. KG in Dietenheim be-came STeP certified in mid-Novem-

ber. A few days later, the two sites of the shirt and blouse makers eterna Mode GmbH in Passau (headquarters and distribution) and Banovce/Slo-vakia (ready-made clothes) received the STeP certificate for sustainable production.

There are now six enterprises worldwide that are certified in ac-cordance with the requirements of the OEKO-TEX® STeP Standard. About 20 more companies have shown specific interest in certifica-tion or are presently in the opera-tional assessment phase.

Roland Schamberger

[email protected]

www.oeko-tex.com/step

Who supplies what? Buying Guide assists in the search for certified products

Around 10,000 companies from over 90 countries and at all lev-els of the value-creation chain cur-rently participate in OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 product certifi cation. When searching for suitable suppli-ers, the production facilities, pur-chasing organisations and retail-ers have at their disposal an ex-tensive network of manufacturers from around the world who can offer a range of textiles in every conceivable quality for the most diverse fiields of application - with the added benefiit that these tex-tiles are proven to be harmless.

By using the "OEKO-TEX® Buying Guide" at www.oeko-tex.com/products, interested companies

With the STeP by OEKO-TEX® production facility certification, environmentally-friendly and socially-responsible upstream providers can be identified worldwide.

can access this international company network, which is in the form of an interactive database with different search filters, directly and without charge.

The available selection options include, for example, the type of OEKO-TEX® certification, the OEKO-TEX® product class, as well as a search by world regions. In addition, you can search specifically for individual product levels and required product materials. Based on these primary search criteria, the selection can be refined using additional filters. For example, with world regions, specific countries can be selected. The product level (e.g. "Fabrics" or "Ready-made goods") can be further refined by the type of product searched for (e.g. "Knitted fabrics", "Woven fabrics" or "Non-wovens") and usage ("e.g. "Outer wear" or "Furnishings"). A free text search also enables you to search for additional product specifications or well-known company names. As the companies can also store additional product information and a company profile in any language in their Buying Guide entry, for example, to address specific target markets, the selection of displayed language version for the OEKO-TEX® website can also be used as an additional search filter.

The search results are displayed in a list arranged alphabetically by company name. By clicking on the displayed companies, you access an information page which lists all data required to make direct contact, for example, the telephone number,

How your new customers can more easily find you

Three easy steps to get a free list-ing in the Buying Guide.

With a bit of preparation it takes just a couple of minutes to list companies in the OEKO-TEX® Buying Guide. Get a free listing in the Buyers Guide in three easy steps.

1

2

3

REQUEST PERSONAL ACCESS DATA to the Self-Service Por-tal at OEKO-TEX®: Email with com-pany name and certificate number to [email protected]

WATCH WEBINAR: The webinar gives a step-by-step guide on how to best present your company and win over customers.www.oeko-tex.com/webinar-buying-guide

PREPARE CONTENT AND ENTER DATA: An ideal basis for your Buying Guide listing is information on your enterprise and product line that you also use to sign up for trade fairs or provide cus-tomers with on your website. This is complemented in the OEKO-TEX® Self-Service Portal with appealing imagery and the company logo.

You have finished your free listing in the textile "WHO PROVIDES WHAT".

email address, contact and the web address. The information on the OEKO-TEX® certified articles is clearly shown according to the respective product level, their usage and also the material from which they are made. If the companies have stored additional information in the detail view such as a company profile, product images or photos from production, their OEKO-TEX® certified brands, specifications of the articles on offer or web links to individual products and/or sales outlets etc., this provides additional transparency for the user of the Buying Guide and illustrates their global network.

Companies that especially stand out are also much more visible in the Online Buying Guide, for example, with the award of "OEKO-TEX® Company of the Month", featuring a promotional logo, or by also displaying successful STeP certification indicating the companies' proven focus on greater sustainability in production. It's worth having a look!

Helmut Müller

[email protected]

www.oeko-tex.com

Buying Guide: http://www.oeko-tex.com/ products

Self-Service Portal: www.oeko-tex.com/customers

00000000 Hohenstein

Page 6 | Impulse | 2/2013

Everything you need - quicker than you think! The experts at the Ho-henstein Institute heed this slogan in providing you with support in testing and certifi cation on all types of textile personal protective equip-ment (PPE).

Speed is the keyWe have optimised our process-es and perform standardised tex-tile-technological testing within 10 working days*. You benefit from the many testing services on offer,

and the speed with which they are carried out, especially when PPE must meet different requirements. Thus warning effects, for exam-ple, are generally tested within 10 working days* and in accordance with EN ISO 20471 (formerly DIN EN 471) in combination with cut resistance under EN 381. The same is true for complex requirements, such as those existing for "pro-tective clothing against heat and flame" in accordance with DIN EN ISO 11612.

Flexible and fastIn all cases we set up a customised testing and certification programme for you. Cost-intensive development times are shortened so that your product comes to market quickly and competitively.

Costs vary when awarding EG type certificates. Here too, our experts also work closely with you in order to provide fast turnaround time.As an accredited testing and certifi-cation site with decades of experi-ence and a worldwide network, we

provide you with comprehensive ad-vice on all process steps, from mate-rial selection, wear comfort and de-ciding on clothing design, to care di-rectives and elaboration of profiles of requirements.

* provided that test capacities & facilities are available

Custom-tailored from a single sourceTesting and certification of personal protective clothing

Other protective clothing•Chemical protective clothing with limited

protection against liquid chemicals (DIN EN 13 034 - finish Type 6 & Type PB [6])

•Protective clothing for users of hand-held chainsaws (DIN EN 381)

•Protective clothing against risk of entanglement with moving parts (DIN EN 510)

•Knee protection for work in kneeling position (DIN EN 14404)

•Protective gloves against mechanical risks (DIN EN 388)

•Protective gloves against chemicals and micro- organisms (DIN EN 374)

3 QUESTIONS FOR

DR. MARINA HANDELWorking area

Hygiene, Environment and Medicine

You were conferred your doctor-ate in July 2013 for cell and mo-lecular biology. Please explain to us laypersons what is behind the title "Engineering autologous adipose tissue substitutes with angiogenic properties based on adipogenic alginate scaffolds in combination with human mes-enchymal stem cells"."The objective of the success-ful conversion of the body's own stem cells into adipocytes (fat cells) and their colonisation on 3D im-plants is to allow treatment of in-jured soft tissue in the future".

When should the fat implants be used?"Filling larger injuries, e.g. burns, pressure ulcers or large scars, are a special challenge in reconstruc-tive surgery. Most surgeons cur-rently choose flap surgery for tis-sue reconstruction. This technique puts great strain on the surround-ing healthy tissue and therefore on the entire patient. Fat implants provide a gentle alternative that also make do without removal of areas of skin from healthy regions of the body".

Your work has given rise to much international interest in profes-sional circles. The renowned Journal "Biomedical Materials", among others, devoted two front pages to this new development. What are you working on at the moment?"I am currently focused on the in-teraction of allergens with textiles and skin, on allergy prevention with textiles, and on the neuro-physiological perception of cloth-ing by people".

www.hohenstein.de/ppe

High-visibility warning clothing •Testing method & requirements

(DIN EN ISO 20471)

•For non-professional use (DIN EN 1150)

Clothing protective against weather and cold climate•Protective clothing against cold

(DIN EN 342)

•Protective clothing against cool environments (DIN EN 14058)

•Protective clothing against rain (DIN EN 343)

Assessment and optimisation of · wear comfort · fit · workmanship · UV protection

Colour measurement and whiteness assessment

Technical performance description

Leasing

Hygiene, environment, medicine · Hygiene inspections · Antibacterial, fungicide & antiviral effectiveness · Interaction textile/person · Skin irritation · Neuromarketing

Harmful substance testing & sustainability · in accordance with OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 · STeP certification by OEKO-TEX® (Sustainable Textile Production)

Chemical and textile technology testing · Fitness for use according to customer specifications · Material composition · Care performance · Down and feather research

Contract research and publicly financed research projects

and much more ...

We offer yet more services from a single source:

You will find videos of selected tests on the YouTube channel of the Hohenstein Institute. Just scan in the QR codes on this page or visit us at:

www.youtube.com/ HohensteinInstitute

Protective clothing Electrostatic and welding•Electrostatic characteristics

(DIN EN 1149-5)

•Welding and related procedures (DIN EN ISO 11611)

•Protection against the thermal hazards of an electric fault arc (IEC 61482-2 Ed.1)

•Protective gloves for welders (DIN EN 12477)

Protective clothing for fire fighters and heat protection clothing•Protection for fire fighting (DIN EN 469)

•Fire fighting on open ground (DIN EN 15614)

•Fire hoods for Fire brigades (DIN EN 13911)

•Production/testing description for universal fire-resistant clothing / protective clothing for fire fighters (HuPF parts 1 - 4)

•Clothing for protection from heat and flames (DIN EN ISO 11612 /14116)

•Protective gloves for fire fighters (DIN EN 659)

•Protective gloves against thermal risks (DIN EN 407) Barbara Schrobsdorff

Head of PPE certification [email protected]+49 (0) 7143 271-337

Heiderose KüblerHead of PPE testing site

[email protected]+49 (0) 7143 271-338

Mariana SchubertHead of Service [email protected]+49 (0) 7143 271-353

Dr. Marina Handel

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-490-EN

Impulse | 2/2013 | Page 7

Small g-value = high energy savingsMeasuring energy transmission helps boost product optimisation

Pleasantly cool in summer, cosy warm in winter, all with mini-mum energy input. Hohenstein In-stitute in Bönnigheim has expand-ed its test spectrum so that mod-ern working and living rooms, ve-hicle interiors, tents and even gar-ments can live up to this demand. Derived from DIN EN 410 "Glass in building", the experts at the in-ternational research and testing in-stitute define the so-called g-value as a measurement of energy trans-mission of materials.

"Manufacturers of textiles, windows

and laminated glass, including other

translucent materials such as foils, can

optimise their products by specifically targeting low energy transmission

based on research results".

The energy savings associated with a low g-value, as well as aspects of comfort and consumer safety, are increasingly important marketing instruments.

The g-value consists of directly transmitted solar radiation and the secondary heat dissipation emitted on the inside of the material from radiation and convection.

On the safe sideNew product label – Tested quality ‘Skin flora neutral’

In recent years, antimicrobial func-tionalised textiles have often been the target of critical reports in the media, creating unease among cus-tomers. A test of cycling trousers carried out by the German con-sumer advice magazine Öko-Test (4/2013) also gave lower ratings to textiles containing silver. Al-though researchers from the Ho-henstein Institute already refuted fears about commercial-quality an-tibacterial products in an extensive scientifi c fi eld study several years ago (AiF no. 15537 N), they also ad-vocated general research in favour of consumer protection on the ef-fects of such functionalised textiles on skin flora.

"A new rapid testing system allows textile

manufacturers to already determine the effects of antibacterial finishes on skin flora during product

development".

The feasibility and reliability of the results produced by the test system have already been proven by examin-ing and comparing functional textiles with antibacterial finishes.

The practically oriented test is based on a standardised model of the human skin flora which simulates germ population, topography and environmental properties of healthy skin. To achieve this, several germ types were selected from the micro flora of a human epidermis and applied to a specially developed artificial skin replacement material (HUMskin). The effect of the test material on these germs is quantified during a wearing simulation over a period of 18 hours and then evaluated against a control material

without antimicrobial finish. This process examines changes in the total number of germs as well as the number of individual germs. If no significant reduction in the number of germs occurs within the exposure time, the textile is considered to be ‘safe’ with regard to the body's own skin flora.

"The test results can be advertised using the

Hohenstein Quality Label 'Antibacterial & Skin flora neutral'."

Successful testing for antibacterial effectiveness according to DIN EN ISO 20743 is a prerequisite for obtaining the label. To ensure realistic testing, the test system was correlated with textiles from an earlier field study on the influence of antibacterial clothing.

The aim of the Hohenstein Quality Label ‘Skin flora neutral’ is to allow customers to see which antibacterial textiles have been proven to have no influence on the skin flora.

Prof. Dr. Dirk Höfer

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-482-EN

The new Hohenstein Quality Label indicates that an antibacterial product is safe for human skin flora.

"A g-value of 1 equates to an

energy transmission (heat gain) of 100%."

Conventional glass without coating has a g-value of about 0.85, meaning that 85% of the radiant energy in a room can reach behind

ww

w.h

ohen

stei

n.co

m

ANTIBACTERIALSKINFLORA NEUTRALTE

ST N

O: H

L 00

.0.0

.000

0

the glass panel. The rest is reflected and absorbed by the glass. The value for modern triple glazing lies at around 0.55.

When measuring with modern spectral photometers, experts at the Hohenstein Institute cover a

Operation of sunscreen textiles and glass

STAIN-TEST MONITORS

for laundryStain-test monitors have been used for many years to determine how well detergents and washing processes remove stains from do-mestic laundry. These testing fab-rics, onto which different staining substances are applied in a stand-ardised way, are now available to commercial laundries in an im-proved form. Stain-test monitors, therefore, allow for neutral assess-ment of washing processes and de-tergents. The focus here is on stain removal, which is one of the most important performance factors for laundries, along with the avoid-ance of greying and the retention of the colour in the textiles. The set of stain-test monitors includes three swatches for assessing pri-mary washing effects, and can be ordered from:

Alexandra Kurz

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-487-EN

RESEARCH ALLIANCE FOUNDED

The four partners BRAIN, the Ho-henstein Institute, Kelheim Fibres and rökona, in collaboration with BioPro Baden-Württemberg, have announced the formation of a new research cooperation for biotech-nological production and modifi-cation of special alginates. Goal of the research cooperation is to es-tablish production of special algi-nate components through the es-tablishment of a sustainable mi-crobial bio process. The biopolymers are to be put to use firstly as a high quality medi-cal product matrix, and secondly in the innovative textile industry.

Prof. Dr. Dirk Höfer

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-529-EN

wavelength range of 250 to 2500 newton metres, which includes both UV radiation and visible light as well as infrared thermal radiation. In addition to g-value, conclusions can be made as to direct radiation transmission coefficient, radiation reflection coefficient and radiation absorption coefficient; as to light transmission coefficient and light reflection coefficient, as well as on UVA and UVB transmission.

Sabrina Köhler

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/pr-513-EN

Page 8 | Impulse | 2/2013

w

Since last year the Texolotl has acted as OEKO-TEX® mascot to provide information on harmful substance testing for textiles and their sustainable production. What kind of animal is the cuddly little monster?

a) Middle European olm

b) Mexican salamander

c) Asian short-armed lizard

Put your answers here and participate in the drawing.

CREDITSPublisher: Hohenstein Laboratories GmbH & Co. KG Hohenstein Institut für Textilinnovation GmbH Hohenstein Academy e.V. Hohenstein Textile Testing Institute GmbH & Co. KG

Schloss Hohenstein Schlosssteige 1 74357 Bönnigheim GERMANY

ISSN 2191-6764

Editorial: Rose-Marie Riedl Helmut Müller Department for Corporate Communications & Research Marketing Phone +49 7143 271-723 Fax +49 7143 271-721 Email [email protected] Internet www.hohenstein.de

Design: Prepress Processing · Manuela Kurz · Gemmrigheim

Printing: ProWachter GmbH · Bönnigheim, Germany

Images ©: Bogner; Fotolia: Oksana Kuzmina; Hohenstein Institute; OEKO-TEX®; Rudi Göttlicher; VDKL; Shutterstock.com: ArtisticPhoto; branislavpudar; Andrea Danti; Corepics VOF; Fedorov Oleksiy; Gergely Attila; gillmar; Jag_cz; Kzenon; LiliGraphie; Maridav; Master3D; Mircea BEZERGHEANU; Oleksiy; Olivier Le Moal; ollyy; Panosgeorgiou; romrf; Sergey Nivens; Sergiy Zavarodny; tonci; vasabii, vinzstudio; VladimirE.

We thank the following institutions for providing financial support for research work:

· Baden-Württemberg Ministry of Economics and Technology

· Forschungskuratorium Textil e.V.

· Arbeitsgemeinschaft industrieller Forschungsvereinigungen ‘Otto von Guericke’ e.V. (AiF)

· AiF Projekt GmbH

· German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology (BMWi)

· German Federal Ministry for Education and Research (BMBF) with affiliated project sponsors

· Deutsche Bundesstiftung Umwelt (DBU)

· and other providers of funds

The stated AiF/IGF projects by the research association Forschungskuratorium Textil e.V., Reinhardtstraße 12 - 14, 10117 Berlin/Germany, were financed through the AiF within the framework of the programme for promotion of cooperative industrial research (IGF) by the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology based on a resolution by the German Bundestag.

Research projects presented in this edition 2/2013:

Uses of textiles with antiviral and antibacterial effect AiF-no. 17407 N page 2

New product label 'Skin flora neutral' AiF no. 15537 N page 7

PROJECT FINANCING

HOHENSTEIN ADVENT QUIZ Test your textile knowledge

This year on our Christmas cam-paign we would like to take you on an expedition to the wonder-ful world of textiles. We have been working with this versatile and chameleonic material for over 60 years, yet we still discover new and interesting facets, facts and func-tions every day.

The work areas at the Hohen-stein Institute have put together an amazing and interesting quiz for you in our Advent calendar. Prove your knowledge of textiles daily until Christmas, guess along with us.

Each correct answer will provide you with the chance to partici-pate in a drawing and win valua-ble prizes. You will also be direct-ly supporting the work of the "KI-SEL" project, because we will do-nate 10 cents to an outreach pro-gramme for children of addicted parents.

Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels

[email protected]

www.hohenstein.de/ christmas_2013

The work of Prof. Dr.-Ing. Otto Mecheels was honoured at the end of october with the naming of a street and a new Institute building. In this context Prof. Dr. Josef Kurz – just like when he was conducting research for his book "Textile World – the Hohenstein Institute's Story of Success", found a bit of "treasure" in the archives. We would like to share some of this in the next issues of the Ho-henstein Impulse by introducing esteemed colleagues to you and telling their "Hohenstein stories".

It was 12 September 1950 when little Rudi Göttlicher's life was given a tremendous boost. The Hohenstein mayor's office proposed the 10-year old as beneficiary of the Lisel Mecheels Foundation. The Foundation had been set up about two months prior by Prof. Dr.-Ing. Mecheels, founder and head of the Hohenstein Institute, on the occasion of the death of his

wife. In a letter to the Hohenstein local council he thanked the public for their participation, who "in spite of urgent harvesting operations" had almost all attended the burial. From then on a "gifted child was to attend the secondary school in Bönnigheim every year, for which I will take on tuition and the costs of the teaching material".

The Lisel Mecheels Foundation was to honour his wife by "helping the youth of Hohenstein to access good professions".

Rudi Göttlicher, son of a German exiled from the Sudetenland, was the first child to benefit from this grant. In addition to a free education at the secondary school in neighbouring Bönnigheim, his benefactor gave him a pair of winter shoes for each of the next two Christmases.

The childhood relationship with the Mecheels family came full circle in 1955, when the then 15-year old was taken on in trial cleaning

at the Hohenstein Institute (at the time called Research Institute Hohenstein). In the ensuing years his field of activity expanded into commercial laundry. He was a tester at the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services from the late 1960s until his retirement in 2006. He maintains a tight bond with the company to this day. If there is a need, he takes on training and continuing education tasks for laundry employees.

In any case, he has a view of Schloss Hohenstein from his house and with it the stories of many colleagues who have a similarly close relationship with the Hohenstein Institute. There is, for instance, Hartmut Girmond, who trained Rudi Göttlicher in the 1950s and whose son Florian Girmond is now head of the Consumer Tests division. We will tell you this family story in the next edition of the Hohenstein Impulse.

DECEMBER

Rudi Göttlicher · born 1940 Erstwhile tester for the German Certification Association for Professional Textile Services

your

HoHen-

stein

storyColleagues

&

Work area: Corporate communications

2013

Example

ki_01_0002_EN_Impulse_2-2013

Rudi Göttlicher - Hohenstein primary school 1947/48