sushi tray - Choly Knight | Sew Desu Ne? · PDF filesushi tray & maki roll ... knit fabrics in plushes. ... a cloth. Not as precise as a pencil. PENCILS Usually washes out or brushes

sushi tray& maki roll

p l u s h s e w i n g p a t t e r n s

www.cholyknight.com

sew desu ne? || www.cholyknight.com

2 // ©2016 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated. You may not reproduce, share, freely

distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form.sushi tray & maki roll || introduction

difficulty:

These plushies are made up of very basic shapes. The maki are simple cylinders. The tray is basically a rectangular prism with small rounded rectangles for legs. It’s constructed with Y-seams, but if you’ve never done them before this is a good way to learn.

makes:maki: 2” wide, 2” tall, and 2” longone tray: 10” wide, 7” long, and 2½” tall

skills needed:• Fusible web applique• Ladder stitch• Curved sewing• Sewing small pieces• Sewing Velcro• Y-seams

sushi tray & maki rollplush pattern collection

If you snagged a copy of this pattern, then congrats on getting the free sample of my mini sushi collection! This sample includes the pattern for a tiny maki roll as well as a plush sushi tray to set it upon. The sushi tray can hold as many as 8 of the tiny maki.If you wish to have the whole collection, which includes 4 different nigiri sushi, wasabi, ginger, and a bento box, check out my shop at cholyknight.etsy.com

www.cholyknight.com || sew desu ne?

3// ©2016 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated. You may not reproduce, share, freely

distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form.

materials: maki roll:• 8”x3”pieceofblackfabric• 6”x3”pieceofwhitefabric• 2”x2”pieceofappliquefabricforfilling(suchasfelt,cotton,etc.)

• 2”x2”scrapoflightorheavyweightfusibleweb

sushi tray:• ¼yardoflightbrownfabric• 10”x7”pieceof2”widedecoratorfoam• 6”ofwhiteVelcro

notions:• matchingsewingthread• basicsewingtools(sewingmachine,scissors,iron,ironingboard,needles,pins,fabricmarker,seamripper,pointturnerorchopstick)*seenextpageformoreinfo

• batting

materials & tools || sushi tray & maki roll

so what is...?fusible web:

A sheet of adhesive that is ironed onto fabric, so that fabric can then be applied (i.e.

appliqued) to a new fabric like an iron-on patch. It comes in pre-packaged sheets and by the yard. Brands include Wonder Under and

Heat n’ Bond

suggested fabricsminky, fleece, or feltThick,plushfabricslikeminky,fleece,orfeltworknicelywiththispattern.Stretchyfabricslikeminkyorfleeceareevenbettersincetheycreateasmooth,roundedfinishandwillbendandstretchtofitthefoamfilling.Feltforthemakimightnotcreatetheroundedlookshownintheexampleplushies,butifyoustuffthemreallyfullyoucanachievesomethingsimilar.Feltforthetraymightbetrickertostuffsinceitdoesn’tstretch.Butifyouhavepatienceandarewillingtotakeyourtimeitshouldstillwork.

materials & tools



distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form.sushi tray & maki roll || starter tools

good better best

fabric scissorsCost $5-15 at most sewing stores. Much

sharper and should only be used for fabric. Spring-loaded varieties are easy on your hands.

craft scissorsAnything that will cut paper and fabric

works fine. Might cause some frustration, but it’ll get you started.sc

isso

rs embroidery scissorsTiny and accurate, these are ideal for

precise cutting work and getting where larger scissors can’t reach.

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

heavy duty threadNice for hand sewn parts that need extra

strength, like attaching heads, eyes & noses, etc.

all-purpose threadMost basic polyester threads are

perfect for plush sewing. Nothing fancy required.th

read

thread condi-tionerPrevents tangles in your thread for machine and

hand-sewing.


metal pinsPins with a metal head; safe to iron. Small head is less likely to

catch thread while hand-sewing

plastic head pinsAll-purpose pin in a relatively long length. Big

plastic head is easy to see, but melts when ironed.

pins

ball-point pinsIdeal when using knit fabrics in plushes.

Ball-point pin tip passes through knit fabrics easily.


starter machineFound at department stores for

$50-150. All you need is a straight and zigzag stitch, and preferably variable stitch length.

your hands!Takes a bit longer than using a machine, but you have

more control over where you stitch. Great for when you’re starting out or fine detail work!se

win

g m

achi

ne mid-range machineUsually found at sewing machine dealers for

$150-400. Will have fewer issues than a cheaper machine. Best if you’re serious about sewing.

starter tools If you’re new to sewing and a little baffled by all the sewing tools needed to get started, check out the list here. It describes all the absolute basics for tackling a project in a format that lets you choose how much you want to spend. Some of these items you might already have around the house! As you collect tools for your arsenal over time, consider adding tools that are more job-specific -- these items come with the note suggesting buying all 3. Just buy these in the order shown as your funds allow. This will build your collection for more generic tools to more specific, and you’ll be able to tackle more techniques and projects in the future!


5// ©2016 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated. You may not reproduce, share, freely

distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form.starter tools || sushi tray & maki roll

good better bestuniversal needlesCan handle a variety of basic plush fabrics on

a machine. Might be troublesome on specialty fabrics.

sharpsA basic hand-sewing needle; you’ll always need one

regardless of whether you have a machine.ne

edle

s fabric-specif-ic needlesIf using special fabric, pick up needles that

are specific to it, such as stretch needles for knits.


point turnerSpecifically designed to turn points, so it works very

intuitively. Hard to get very narrow areas though.

chopstickNarrow and precise, but just blunt enough to avoid poking

holes in your project.

poin

t tu

rnin

g hemostatsA medical tool that’s narrow and blunt but also grips. Turns

thin pieces and grabs stuffing. Incredibly useful.

ruler/yard stickMore accurate than a tape measure since it

won’t bend on you.

tape measureSuper cheap and great for measuring curves. Flexible

so it gets into hard-to-reach areas.

rule

r quilting rulerMeasures in two dimensions; great for checking

if things are parallel or perpendicular.


hot glueCreates a quick-drying, strong bond so it’s great for

plush pieces that are awkward to hold together before sewing.

glue stickWashable kinds are great for basting fabric pieces together

that are tricky to sew. Not the strongest bond, but it’ll do.gl

ue &

bas

ting fabric glue

Ideal glue for basting fabric together. Takes longer to dry

but is best suited to fabric. More accurate than a glue stick.


chalkGreat on dark fabrics. Brushes away easily; even better with

a cloth. Not as precise as a pencil.

pencilsUsually washes out or brushes away. Hard to mark some

slippery or fluffy fabrics.fabr

ic m

arki

ng fabric markerSpecially designed to mark fabrics and wash away with

water. Precise and clear.

seam ripperDon’t need anything fancy for this. Everyone makes mistakes and everyone needs a seam ripper.an

d... iron/ironing board

Unlike other types of sewing, plush projects don’t need much ironing. But they’re handy for fusible web applique or for pressing crisp fabrics.



distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form.sushi tray & maki roll || printing the .pdf

1. print the test square.At the print dialog box, check the box that says print at “Actual Size” or 100%. Any other selection (such as “Fit to page”) will distort the pattern so it’s slightly larger or smaller and we don’t want that. Set it to print the test square, found on page 16.

4. trim the marginsIt’s likely your printer will have a margin that ensures your image doesn’t print to the very edge. Assembly will be easier if you trim off this blank margin edge. This will give you pages that overlap slightly during assembly. If you trim across the gray outline boxes, this will give you pages that don’t overlap but rather butt against each other.

2. measure the text squareGet a ruler and measure the test square to be sure it matches the dimensions printed in the pattern. If it’s smaller than the printed size, increase your printer settings. If it’s larger, decrease the printer settings.

5. tape the pagesTo line up the pattern pages, match up the corresponding diamond shapes. Each diamond will have a letter, so it’s simply a matter of matching A1 to A2, B3 to B4 and so on. The faint gray lines indicate the border of every page, you should be able to line those up as well. When the diamond goes together, tape it in place.

3. collect the pagesWith the settings all right, print the rest of the pattern, pages 17-18. Be sure you have the full collection by noting the page numbers in the corner. Or refer to the next page to print only specific pages.

6. cut the piecesYou can trace the patterns onto a different paper, or you can also just cut them straight from the printer paper -- be sure that each piece is fully taped together along the joins so they don’t fall apart when you cut them.

printing the patternTo print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 16-18. If you’re unfamiliar with

printing and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.

sushi tray:

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p/p

ile

l e g sl e g s

l e g sl e g s

f r o n t / b a c k s i d e s

f r o n t / b a c k s i d e s

t o p / b o t t o m t o p / b o t t o m

l / r s i d e s

l / r s i d e s

brown fabric ¼ yd.; 9

” long

41” wide

s t r e t c h



distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form.sushi tray & maki roll || cutting the fabric

1. place the patternPlace pattern on the fabric, and make sure the stretch line matches the stretch of the fabric. The nap line should go in the direction of the fur.

2. pin the patternPin the pattern in place, use pattern weights, or trace the outline of the pattern with a washable marker.

3. cut the fabricUsing the paper as a template, cut out the fabric. Cut the required amount according to the pattern.

cutting the fabricWith your supplies gathered and your pattern printed, you can finally move onto cutting

your fabric. If you’re unfamiliar with the procedure, see the steps here. Also check out the cutting layout for an at-a-glance view of how your pieces should look.

na

p/p

ile

na

p/p

ile

maki roll:

s i d e s t o p /b o t t o m

t o p /b o t t o m

s t r e t c h

black fabric white fabric3” long

3” long

8” wide 6” wide


sushi tray & maki roll || sewing the plush8 // ©2016 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated. You may not reproduce, share, freely


maki roll sushi:

before you begin:1. Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.2. If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait

until the applicable step before transferring.3. Note that the seam allowance used is ¼” throughout the project.

• Take your fusible web and trace the roll filling pieces onto the smooth (paper) side. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabric.

• Cut out the fillings and arrange one on one of the top/bottom pieces from your white fabric. You can do this by setting your paper pattern on top of the fabric piece (right sides up), align the marking piece on top where the placement markings are, then carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.

• Fuse the piece in place with your iron (use a press cloth -- such as a scrap piece of cotton -- if you’re using a polyester or fur fabric like minky).

• If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here. Refer to the next step for more applique options.

• If you’re attaching this to a sushi tray, take this time to sew the hook half of your Velcro tab to the center of one of the top/bottom pieces.

1. applique the fillings

2. sew the fillings

trace two filling shapes onto paper side

fuse onto filling applique fabric

hold onto applique pieces while

sliding paper away

fuse in place, then stitch as desired

to attach to sushi tray: stitch Velcro on

one side


sewing the plush || sushi tray & maki roll 9// ©2016 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated. You may not reproduce, share, freely


1

2

3

4

3. other applique options

• Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.

• You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique shape. This completes one stitch.

• For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape. Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.

straight stitch -- works

well for felt

applique whipstitch

• Fold the side piece in half widthwise with right sides facing.

• Sew along the one short side down the length to create a ring.

• Each open end of the ring will be attached to a circle to create the cylinder shape. If you’re using a non-stretchy fabric, it’s a big help to clip into the seam allowance of each open end. This will give the edge more stretch and allow it to flex around the curve of the top and bottom.

4. sew the sidesfold in half widthwise;

short ends together, right sides facing

stitch along short end

clip within seam allowance




• Line up one open end of the side piece with one of the top/bottom pieces. The side should curve all the way around the circle.

• Once everything is aligned, sew around the perimeter as shown.

5. attach the top

match up open end to circle

sew around circle

• If you haven’t already, find the opening for turning markings on the top/bottom piece and transfer them over to the wrong side of the remaining fabric piece.

• Repeat step 26 with the remaining circle piece to complete the bottom, but be sure not to sew between the opening for turning markings.

• Once both sides have been sewn, turn the roll right side out and stuff it semi-firmly with batting.

6. attach the bottom

side view

leave open for turning stuff semi-firmly




12

3seam allowance (folded inside)

4

TIP:a ladder stitch is also sometimes

called a slip stitch, hidden stitch, or invisible stitch.

• Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening and out of the plush near one edge of the opening. This will leave the knot inside the plush.

• Continue from here ladder stitching the topping to the rice. Take a 1/8” stitch into edge of the opening, then go across and take a stitch from the other edge. Keep going around like this until the end of the opening. Tie off the thread and bring the needle out about1-2” from the end of the opening. Hold the thread taut while you clip the thread.

7. stitch the roll closedinsert thread from

inside opening ladder stitch closed




sewing the tray:

• Cut your Velcro strip into 8 equal pieces, about ¾” each.

• Arrange them onto one of the tray Top/Bottom pieces according to the pattern guidelines. You can do this by placing the paper pattern on top of the fabric piece. Then align the Velcro square on top. Slide the paper pattern away while holding onto the Velcro. You can baste the Velcro in place with a bit of glue or pin them as you go.

• Sew the Velcro tabs in place. This will become the top of your tray and the remaining blank piece will be the bottom.

• The trick to sewing y-seams for things like cubes and rectangular prisms is to sew only along the seam lines so they can be matched up later. For steps 2-5 be sure to sew so a ¼” gap is left on each end of the seam -- or transfer over the circle markings on each piece and sew between those circles only.

• Align one of the front/back side pieces with your tray top piece, matching up the long edge as shown. This will now be the front of the tray. Sew along this long edge from circle to circle.

• Once complete, repeat this with the tray bottom piece on the other edge of the front side. Repeat again, adding the other back side piece to the remaining edge of the tray top. Once complete you should have a row of pieces joined; Back, Top, Front, Bottom (see the following photo to show this).

1. apply the velcro tabs

2. attach the front/back sides

hold velcro while sliding paper away stitch 8 Velcro

pieces

align long edges together

TOP

TOP

TOP

BOTTOM

FRONT SIDE FRONT SIDE

FRONT SIDEstop ¼” between beginning and end




• Flatten out the pieces you have joined so far. Align the L/R Side pieces along the short edge of the tray top as shown. They will overlap the front and back slightly, but as you remember we won’t be sewing into that area.

• Sew between the circle markings as shown. The finished tray configuration should look something like a ‘t’ with the L/R side pieces sticking out.

• Focus on one of the corners of the tray, where the Front and Side meet up. These short sides form the edges of the tray once they are sewn together. Match up these edges and sew them between the circle markings as before.

• Repeat this with the other 3 corners so it looks something like the photo.

3. attach the l/r sides

4. sew the corners

TOP TOP

LEFT SIDE

LEFT

SID

E

RIGHT SIDE

RIG

HT

SID

E

BOTTOM

BOTTOM

FRO

NT

SID

EFRONT SIDE

BA

CK

SID

EBACK SIDE

TIP:i specify which is right, left, front, and back to avoid

confusion of course. but it’s also so that the closing seam you sew by hand at the end winds up in the lower back of

the tray where it’s less noticeable.

match up short sides




• If you need it for extra guidance, find the opening for turning markings on the paper pattern for the tray bottom. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric piece.

• Fold the bottom piece over so it matches up with the side pieces as shown. As you can see it finishes off the box shape we’ve been building. Pin the edges in place.

• Sew these edges as before (just between the circle markings). Pivot at the corners, but be sure to leave the opening for turning as shown in the photo and in the paper pattern.

• Once complete, trim the excess seam allowance at the corner, and stuff the foam into your tray from the opening. You might want to trim the tray so it fits snugly. Be sure to move the fabric around so it’s a good fit.

• Once the tray is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening and out of the tray near one edge of the opening. This will leave the knot inside the tray.

• Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch into the fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another. Keep going down the opening until you reach the end.

5. attach the bottom

6. stitch the opening closed

12

3seam allowance (folded inside)

4

TIP:a ladder stitch is also sometimes

called a slip stitch, hidden stitch, or invisible stitch.

fold over bottom so it matches up

with sides

leave opening for turning

stuff foam into opening

insert needle in through

opening

ladder stitch opening closed




• If you haven’t already, find the opening for turning markings on the leg paper pattern. Transfer it over to the wrong side of two of your leg pieces.

• Take two of your leg pieces (one with and one without markings) and align them with right sides facing as shown.

• Sew around the perimeter of the leg, but be sure to leave a gap for turning as you marked earlier. Repeat this with the remaining two leg pieces for two legs total.

• Turn them both right side out and prepare for stuffing.

• Stuff the legs semi-firmly with batting.

• Tuck under the seam allowance and ladder stitch the openings closed as you did back in step 6.

• If you haven’t already, find the leg placement lines marked in the tray bottom paper pattern. Transfer them over to the bottom of the tray. Or just mark lines parallel to the sides, 2” in from each edge.

• Line up the legs with these lines, matching up the ladder stitching with the line. You might want to hold them in place with some hot glue if you have trouble. Or just pin them as you ladder stitch them to the tray bottom.

• Now add your sushi (or whatever you like) on top, because you’re all done!

7. sew the legs

8. attach the legs

match up two leg pieces; right sides facing

leave open for turningturn right side out

stuff semi-firmly

ladder stitch closed

align legs & stitch in place

A1 A2

PG. 1/3

NA

P

STRETCHTEST SQUARE

2”measure this square to

be sure you’ve printed at the proper proportions

sushi trayplush sewing pattern

TOP/BOTTOMCut 2 of light brown fabric

¼” seam allowance

NA

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STRETCH

opening for turning (bottom only)

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velcro placement

velcro placement

velcro placement

velcro placement

velcro placement

A1 A2

PG. 1/3 PG. 2/3

sushi trayFRONT/BACK SIDES

Cut 2 of light brown fabric¼” seam allowance

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PG. 2/3 PG. 3/3

MA

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trace/cut 2 of accent color

mini sushi

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Documents

sushi tray - Choly Knight | Sew Desu Ne? · PDF filesushi tray & maki roll ... knit fabrics in plushes. ... a cloth. Not as precise as a pencil. PENCILS Usually washes out or brushes