T PPRESIDENTRESIDENT MM...Waterfall Design Types..... pond looks at its best, start taking pictures so that you can have your pictures ready and 6 Members us Tour ..... 7 Seaming &

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Water Garden Society of Oklahoma Newsletter: Pond Life June 2014 Volume 28 Issue 6

TTHEHE PPRESIDENTRESIDENT ’’SS MMESSAGEESSAGE

President’s Message .............. 1 Meeting Information ................ 1 Club News ................................. 2 New Members / Renewals ....... 2 Board Meeting Info ................... 2 Ad Rates .................................... 2 Event Calendar ......................... 3 WGSO Board Contact List ......... 3 Gardening for Pollinators ......... 4 How to Attract Butterflies ........ 5 Waterfall Design Types ............. 6 Members Bus Tour ................... 7 Seaming & Patching A Liner ...... 7 WGSO Fun Facts Trivia .............. 7 Raised Ponds............................. 8 Upcoming Events Details .......... 9 Fun Facts Trivia ....................... 10 Birthdays ................................. 10 Club Contact Info .................... 10

INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

Well, the year is nearly half over and what a busy year it has been. Finally the weather is warmer with no tornado's and getting the much needed rain we have been waiting for. It is such a relief with what so many of our members endured last year with mother na-tures fury. Our members who are on the public tour are now getting ready for our 28thannual pub-lic pond tour. We have several new ponds on tour this year and that always increases the interest for our club. For those who are not on tour this year, when your lilies and your pond looks at its best, start taking pictures so that you can have your pictures ready and put your pond on tour next year. We had a very successful member’s only plant sale in May, bringing in $1,539.00! The plant sale is our clubs only fundraiser during the year. A really big thank you goes to The Real McKoi and to TLC. They both unexpectedly donated so many plants for our silent auction. When you go to either business, please let them know how we appreciate them. They both helped out our club tremendously. Also, for our member’s who took time out to dig, separate and bring plants or bring items to donate to our plant sale, THANK YOU. Without your hard work we would not have done so well. Now finally, Gary Guild as always does such a great job of organizing the plant sale with his special team of helpers. We also want to acknowledge our cashiers, Donna Tinsley, Tasha McBrayer, and David Foreacker, who gave shopping rights to their spouses. He even had Pat Bour-geois, who came on crutches, now that is dedication. He knows how to pick them! Thanks goes to all who helped working the sale. WGSO will be at the Will Rogers Park May 31 for the Annual Affair in the Park. We will be there to share information with the public about our club and to get the word out about our upcoming pond tour. There will be different venders there selling plants, yard art and different items. Come join us. There will be another meet and great at Pond Pro on Saturday, June 7th. They will be showing how to build a new pond. If you are thinking about building your first pond or even another one it would be well worth your time to attend. You will be surprised at how much you can learn. Don’t forget to get your seat on the bus for our member’s tour in July. The bus is already half sold out. We have some new ponds on tour that you will not want to miss. We will be going to 13-15 homes. There are already 10 homes signed up for the tour. Our mem-ber’s tour will be on Saturday, July 12th. Diane Clark, WGSO President

N E X T M E E T I N G 2nd Wednesday of the Month

June 11, 2014 Doors Open at 6:30 pm

Will Rogers Exhibition Center 3400 N.W. 36th Street

Oklahoma City, OK

PROGRAM:

Skin Cancer Signs & Preventions

SPEAKER:

Lauren Anderson

J u n e 2 1J u n e 2 1 -- 2 22 2 Details on Page 9Details on Page 9

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WGSO AD RATES If you would like to place an ad in the Pond Life, the rates are as follows:

Business Card $10.00 1/4 Page $25.00 1/2 Page $75.00 Full Page $100.00

Ads are to be CAMERA READY PREPAID in advance. Send payment to the WGSO Treasurer, Jim Maida, 10612 Turnberry Ln, OKC, OK 73170.

Send ad to the newsletter editor, Paullei Mumme at [email protected].

Ad must be in editor’s possession no later than the 20th of the month preceding publication.

EX: August issue must be received by July 20th.

Thursday, June 5 @ 6:30 pm

RSVP Required to Diane Clark [email protected] 947-6999

Diane Clark’s House 4900 NW 35th

Oklahoma City, OK

NEW MEMBERS:NEW MEMBERS: Ronald & Maxine Adams Darrin & Whitney Beller

Lisa Pembrook & Rob Dunn Rose Gideon

Janet Kyle Mary Merrill Elise Moran

Terry & Karen Moss Vergil & Sonya Roper

Steve Spitz Jeff & Donner Strother Leo & Mary Trujillo

Sandy Weber

RENEWALS:RENEWALS: Carl & Ellen Bean

William & Nancy Burns Bill James

Coy & Tasha McBrayer

As of the 20th of the month:

WW ELCOMEELCOME WGSO MWGSO M EMBERSEMBERS

Open to all WGSO members - RSVP Required - Bring a Dish.

If you paid your 2014 Membership Dues last month and DON’T see your name, contact Patty Smith at

[email protected]

Tickets are $1 @ Meetings & Club Events.

$ 2 1 6 . 0 0

As of 5/14/14

World’s Most Beautiful Raccoon Proofing OR

A Dreamcatcher Type Cover to Ward Off Herons Skin cancer is by far the most common type of cancer. If you have skin cancer, it is important to know which type you have because it affects your treatment options and your outlook (prognosis). If you aren’t sure which type of skin cancer you have, ask your doctor so you can get the right information. www.cancer.org

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Board Meeting June 5 General Meeting June 11 WGSO Public Pond Tour June 21-22 Board Meeting July 1 General Meeting July 9 Members Bus Tour July 12 Board Meeting August 5

General Meeting August 13 Summer Social August 16 Board Meeting September 4 General Meeting September 10 Board Meeting October 2 General Meeting October 8 Members Cookout & Night Tour TBD

2 0 1 4 W G S O B O A R D 2 0 1 4 W G S O B O A R D EXECUTIVE OFFICER*/ COMMITTEE CHAIRS NAME CELL OTHER E-MAIL

*President Diane Clark 802-6200 947-6999 [email protected]

*Vice-President Tonah Tharp 973-4209 340-6495 [email protected]

*Secretary Teresa Asbury 659-2595 755-8090 [email protected]

*Treasurer Jim Maida 691-7630 [email protected]

*Historian Dennis Wagner 550-8923 265-3996 [email protected]

*Past President Jim Conner 317-6016 801-2891 [email protected]

Newsletter / Activities Paullei Mumme 642-4767 418-8708 [email protected]

Membership Patty Smith 717-9995 694-0886 [email protected]

Plant Sales/Tour Guide Sales Gary Guild 397-5758 390-8112 [email protected]

Programs Connie Fisher 350-3378 [email protected]

Refreshments Claribel Collier 396-8074 N/A

Refreshments Phil & Sarah Grissam 454-3571 [email protected]

Tour Guide Publication Tom Thompson 693-5098 [email protected]

Website Alex Philbrick 812-5876 [email protected]

Tour Guide Ad Sales/Members Tours Open

Entertainment (Summer Social & Christmas Party) Open

Librarian Alex Philbrick 812-5876 [email protected]

mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]

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GARDENING FOR POLLINATORS

Follow these simple steps to create a pollinator-friendly

landscape around your home or workplace.

Use a wide variety of plants that bloom from early spring into late fall. Help pollinators find and use them

by planting in clumps, rather than single plants. Include plants native to your region. Natives are adapted

to your local climate, soil and native pollinators. Do not forget that night-blooming flowers will support

moths and bats.

Avoid modern hybrid flowers, especially those with "doubled" flowers. Often plant breeders have unwittingly left the pollen, nectar, and fra-

grance out of these blossoms while creating the "perfect" blooms for us.

Eliminate pesticides whenever possible. If you must use a pesticide, use the least-toxic material possible.

Read labels carefully before purchasing, as many pesticides are especially dangerous for bees. Use the prod-

uct properly. Spray at night when bees and other pollinators are not active.

Spare that limb! By leaving dead trees, or at least an occasional dead limb, you provide essential nesting

sites for native bees. Make sure these are not a safety hazard for people walking below. You can also build a

bee condo by drilling holes of varying diameter about 3 to 5 inches deep in a piece of scrap lumber mounted

to a post or under eaves.

Include larval host plants in your landscape. If you want colorful

butterflies, grow plants for their caterpillars. They WILL eat them,

so place them where unsightly leaf damage can be tolerated. Accept that some host plants are less

than ornamental if not outright weeds. A butterfly guide will help you determine the plants you need

to include. Plant a butterfly garden!

Create a damp salt lick for butterflies and bees. Use a dripping hose, drip irrigation line, or place your

bird bath on bare soil to create a damp area. Mix a small bit of table salt (sea salt is better!) or wood

ashes into the mud.

You can add to nectar resources by providing a hummingbird feeder. To make artificial nectar, use

four parts water to one part table sugar. Never use artificial sweeteners, honey, or fruit juices.

Place something red on the feeder. Clean your feeder

with hot soapy water at least twice a week to keep it

free of mold.

Butterflies need resources other than nectar. They are

attracted to unsavory foodstuffs, such as moist animal

droppings, urine and rotting fruits. Try putting out slices

of overripe bananas, oranges and other fruits, or a

sponge in a dish of lightly salted water to see which butterflies come to investigate. Sea salt provides

a broader range of micronutrients than regular table salt.

Learn more about pollinators Get some guidebooks and learn to recognize the pollinators in your neighborhood. Experiment with a pair of close-

focusing binoculars for butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/gardening.shtml

For more information on butterflies, visit the North American Butterfly Association at www.nababutterfly.com

Attract butterflies and Oriels with fresh orange slices hung from a wire.

Monarchs are probably the most well known butterflies in North America. Sadly, the num-ber of Monarchs seen in our gardens has been

decreasing over the last decade.

One of the factors that is causing this decrease is the loss of the Monarch caterpillars’ food plant, namely, milk-weeds. Each person can help Monarchs by planting milkweeds.

http://nababutterfly.com/monarchs-and-milkweeds/

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HOW TO ATTRACT BUTTERFLIES TO YOUR GARDEN Brightly colored butterflies can be a welcome addition to your wildlife garden, not only because of their beauty, but also because of their usefulness in pollinating flowers.

Attracting butterflies involves incorporating plants that serve the needs of all life stages of the butterfly. The in-sects need places to lay eggs, food plants for their larvae (caterpillars), places to form chrysalides and nectar sources for adults.

BUTTERFLY GARDEN NECESSITIES Plant native flowering plants - Because many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved over time and depend on each other for survival and reproduction, it is particularly important to install native flowering plants local to your geographic area. Native plants provide butterflies with the nectar or foliage they need as adults and caterpillars. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has lists of recommended native plants by region and state.

Plant type and color is important - Adult butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink and purple blossoms that are flat-topped or clustered and have short flower tubes.

Plant good nectar sources in the sun - Your key butterfly nectar source plants should receive full sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Butterfly adults generally feed only in the sun. If sun is limited in your landscape, try adding butterfly nectar sources to the vegetable garden.

Plant for continuous bloom - Butterflies need nectar throughout the adult phase of their life span. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins.

Say no to insecticides - Insecticides such as malathion, Sevin, and diazinon are marketed to kill insects. Don't use these materials in or near the butterfly garden or better, anywhere on your property. Even "benign" insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, are lethal to butterflies (while caterpillars).

Feed butterfly caterpillars - If you don't "grow" caterpillars, there will be no adults. Bringing caterpillar foods into your garden can greatly increase your chances of attracting unusual and uncommon butterflies, while giving you yet another reason to plant an increasing variety of native plants. In many cases, caterpillars of a species feed on only a very limited variety of plants. Most butterfly caterpillars never cause the leaf damage we associate with some moth caterpillars such as bagworms, tent caterpillars, or gypsy moths.

Provide a place for butterflies to rest - Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat stones in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and bask in the sun. Butterflies will benefit from having a windbreak nearby for those days with gusty winds. The same windbreak can provide shade on those very hot summer days. If the windbreak includes shrubs, the butterflies will also use the plants as a roosting area at night.

Give them a place for puddling - Butterflies often congregate on wet sand and mud to partake in "puddling," drinking water and extracting minerals from damp puddles. Place coarse sand in a shallow pan and then insert the pan in the soil of your habitat. Make sure to keep the sand moist..

COMMON BUTTERFLIES AND THE PLANTS THEIR CATERPILLARS EAT

Acmon Blue - buckwheat, lupines, milkvetch American Painted Lady - cudweed, everlast Baird's Swallowtail - dragon sagebrush Black Swallowtail - parsley, dill, fennel, common rue Coral Hairstreak - wild black cherry, American and chickasaw plum, black chokeberry Dun Skipper - sedges, grasses including purpletop Eastern Tiger Swallowtail - wild black cherry, ash, tulip tree, willow, sweetbay, basswood Giant Swallowtail - prickly ash, citrus, common rue, hoptree, gas plant, torchwood Gray Comma - gooseberry, azalea, elm Great Purple Hairstreak - mistletoe Gulf Fritillary - maypops, other passion vines Henry's Elfin - redbud, dahoon and yaupon hollies, maple-leaved viburnum, blueberries Monarch - milkweeds Painted Lady (Cosmopolite) - thistles, mallows, nievitas, yellow fiddleneck Pygmy Blue - saltbush, lamb's quarters, pigweed Red Admiral/White Admiral - wild cherries, black oaks, aspens, yellow and black birch Silver-Spotted Skipper - locusts, wisteria, other legumes Spicebush Swallowtail - sassafras, spicebush Sulphurs - clover, peas, vetch, alfalfa, asters Variegated Fritillary - passion flower, maypop, violets, stonecrop, purslane Viceroy - willows, cottonwood, aspen Western Tailed Blue - vetches, milkvetches Western Tiger Swallowtail - willow, plum, alder, sycamore, hoptree, ash Woodland Skipper - grasses Zebra Swallowtail - pawpaw Source: www.nwf.org/How-to-Help/Garden-for-Wildlife/Gardening-Tips

If your garden is too windy butter-flies will not come, so take the time to build a wind block with shrubs such as noninvasive bamboo or a yew hedge.

Climate change may disrupt the chemistry of milkweeds; gardeners can help monarchs by planting more of these critical host plants

http://www.nwf.org/How-to-Help/Garden-for-Wildlife/Gardening-Tips/Using-Native-Plants.aspxhttp://www.wildflower.org/collectionshttp://www.wildflower.org/collectionshttp://www.nwf.org/News-and-Magazines/National-Wildlife/Gardening/Archives/2010/Cater-to-Caterpillars-to-Help-Butterflies.aspx

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WATERFALL DESIGN TYPES TO PONDER

To the average person, a waterfall is a waterfall. There's rocks and water. The water flows over the rocks, and it makes a soothing sound. That sums it up, right? You can really play with the way a waterfall sounds, and you can play with the way it looks. The two main types of waterfalls have enough variations to keep someone like me well equipped when designing a natural looking waterfall. Talk to me about it and you will see a whole new waterfall world. There are two main types of waterfalls that we build, with a third being a hybrid of the two.

There is the "boulder waterfall" and the "waterfall drop". Each has its positives, and our goal in creating a waterfall is to mix these waterfall types in the most natural way. You have to consider what is more appropriate for your situation, and in our case what the client wants verses what we want. One major example is that a boulder waterfall requires double to triple the water flow to give off a waterfall that is similar to a waterfall drop. So if your waterfall is going to be in the distance let's say, then waterfall drops are easier to see from a distance. Or if you want a 50' stream that never gets above 2' in total elevation, then multiple boulder waterfalls is the way to go. Each of the two main types of waterfalls can vary greatly in width and height. With that, the possibilities are endless.

Boulder Waterfalls: Some rocks are similar looking, but for the most part they are usually unique in color and shape. So when creating boul-der waterfalls we are on the hunt for very uniquely shaped rock. A really good rock is all you need for a beautiful boulder waterfall. The only skill is in knowing how to judge the rock's quality and being able to set the rock in a way that you accomplish the correct look. It's funny, but thinking about how to describe my natural instinct, is like writing a book about how to swim. The uniqueness you are looking for is a rock with character. Does that help? You need a stone that is jagged, or has holes in it, or is different than all of the others.

Before we ever get to a client's house, we know exactly what rocks are going where, and we can visualize the entire project by hand selecting the stone we will be using. Sometimes it takes a little looking around the stone yard, but when you feel comfortable with the selection, and are excited, then run with it. I have a mental inventory of available stone in Jacksonville by consistently walking around several different stone yards. With that being said, I definitely hand select all of our project's stone. I recommend if doing it yourself, put some thought into which rocks will be the "key" waterfall rocks. Maybe select several for several waterfalls, or just in case one fits better.

Waterfall Drops: Waterfall drops I feel are easier to create. All it is a flat rock that the water flows over. We will normally pick out a stone that is 2-3" thick, with a jagged side where the waterfall will drop from. Sometimes we will take more than one flat one and piece them togeth-er. Other times we will tilt one of them forward to create sort of a split look, or both tilting to the center. The theory is to keep the drop under 3' in height. Really it should be a little less than 3', but 3' is the maximum.

We will try to case out the waterfall by adding big boulders on both sides of the waterfall. These should be as big as possible, and should have some character. This is also the "Aquascape way", I tend to agree with them. Once our two big rocks are in place, we build up to just below our waterfall's top height, and keep adding stone and testing our flat rock until it fits.e also will try to add at least one big rock between the two on the sides to keep it from looking like all little rocks.

A tip for building a base for the flat rock is to make sure the rocks are solid. We will opt for stones that are slightly square and not just round for this part. They should be able to be stacked without mortar or glue holding them in place.

Waterfall Hybrid: Well, how would I define a waterfall hybrid? HMM...It's a "hybrid" of a boulder waterfall and a waterfall drop. This one comes around via the water volume issue. If you are creating a waterfall drop, and don't have enough water volume, then you might end up with a hybrid and/or a boulder waterfall. Likewise, if you have a lot of water volume on a boulder fall you might end up with a hybrid and/or a waterfall drop.

Conclusion: Become open minded about waterfall design. You have so many options to work with, why not get creative with it?

TIP: About 1500 gallons per hour per linear foot of waterfall drop are needed to make it "drop" right. And about 3000 gallons per hour per line-ar foot of boulder waterfall are needed to make it look right. Source: http://berkshirewatergardens.com/DesignIdeas/WaterfallDesign.aspx

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SEAMING AND PATCHING PONDGARD RUBBER POND LINERS

Patching Small Holes or Tears: Use the 6" single sided tape. Ensure the liner is clean and dry and that any wrinkles are stretched out. Ap-ply QuickPrime to the area being patched with an abrasive pad. Allow to dry briefly. Test readiness of the Quickprime by putting your finger to the applied Quickprime and pushing forward slightly with your finger. The primer should not string as your finger moves up and away. Remove the paper backing and apply the tape being careful to provide a smooth cover. Roll to provide pressure to all areas of the tape. Apply Lap Seal-ant to the tape edges for the final step and allow to dry for several hours before contact with water.

Joining Two Liners: Ensure the liner is clean and dry and that any wrinkles are stretched out. Overlap the top liner over the bottom liner by at least 4”. Fold back the upper liner. Apply QuickPrime with an abrasive pad to the bottom of the upper liner and the top of the bottom liner. Allow to dry briefly. Test readiness of the Quickprime by putting your finger to the applied Quickprime and pushing forward slightly with your finger. The primer should not string as your finger moves up and away. Slowly peel back paper backing and apply the 3" double sided tape to the top edge of the bottom liner then lay the bottom edge of the second liner directly on top. Roll to provide pressure. Apply the 6" single sided tape over the exposed edge of the splice with three inches on each side. Roll to provide pressure to all areas of the tape. Apply lap sealant to both edges of the 6" tape for the final step and allow to dry for several hours before contact with water.

For optimum performance of the patches, drain the water from the damaged area, clean with mineral spirits and allow it to dry completely. Apply the QuickPrime onto the dam-aged area and the patch with the scrubber pad, being sure to wear the protective gloves. Wait until the QuickPrime becomes tacky, pull the backing from the patch, cover the dam-aged area, and use the wooden roller to flatten the patch while applying firm pressure. Ensure that the repaired area is completely dry before refilling your pond with water.

Source: www.pondliner.com/blog/firestone-epdm-accessory-instructions/

Firestone EPDM Repair Kit About $20

2014 WGSO MEMBERS BUS TOUR: SATURDAY JULY 12

If you haven’t purchased your seats for this year’s members pond tour be sure to get them soon. More than half of the

seats are sold. The members pond tour will be Saturday, July 12. We will be departing from the parking lot due south of where our meetings are at Will Rogers Park. We

will be leaving the park at 8:30am sharp. Then we will be return-ing somewhere about 6:00pm.

We have several new ponds on tour this year, so this will be one not to miss. We have a few spots available to put your pond on tour. If you would like to put your pond on tour please call Diane Clark at 947-6999. There several east so if you are near I-35 this would be a good year to put your pond on.

Tickets are $20.00 and it includes your bus seat, snacks on the bus and wa-ter. Don’t forget about the door prizes and we will be also be doing the 50/50. You will need to bring a sack lunch and a folding chair. If you want soda, or something other than water be sure to include it with your lunch. We will be having lunch at a member’s home during the tour. The seats will be sold at the July meeting and they are first come, first served. So don’t wait till the last minute and don’t miss the fun.

WGSO Members Bus Tour

Join the FunJoin the Fun

Seats are just Seats are just

$20 $20

Did you know we have had four organized night tours? After many years of members sug-gesting that we do a night tour we finally did. We started the night tours while Jim Conner was president in 2010. That first night tour we met the charter bus at Will Rogers Park like we do during our annual member’s tour.

The following year we decided we would make it more fun and include a cook out before the tour which was a huge success. Since then we have always started with a cookout. The next year it rained and we at the last minute moved the dinner location within one hour of when it was scheduled. We still had the tour even though it was misty throughout the evening.

In 2013, our club chose instead of a charter bus, that we would do a caravan and we had the largest group ever for a night tour. We not only had a cookout, but had activities scheduled at each members home to make it more exciting.

http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.903/.fhttp://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.1315/.f?sc=2&category=20http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.904/.fhttp://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.904/.fhttp://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.1315/.f?sc=2&category=20http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.902/.fhttp://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.903/.f

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RAISED PONDS IN THE BACKYARD WATER GARDEN

One pro for the raised pond in a backyard water garden is the fact that it can be a great focal point in a formal garden or on a paved area such as a patio. Low walls surrounding the raised pond can be used as seating to observe the pond in the backyard water garden.

A raised pond in the backyard water garden is best suited to a climate where the temperatures in the winter months stay above freezing. If you live in a climate where the winters are harsh, a raised pond may not be right for you. However, with proper size and construction techniques a raised pond can be installed in most climates.

A raised pond allows you to interact with your fish up close. Some fish will swim to the edge to be petted and feeding time is a lot more enjoyable due to the close proximity.

Another plus for a raised pond in a backyard water garden is the need for less excavation. Where a sunken pond needs to be dug, a raised pond can be built on the existing ground. If your yard has large trees you wish to preserve or if you are on bedrock, a raised pond may be the ideal choice.

Yards with retaining walls do well with a raised pond on both levels with a waterfall on the lower level. The two pond system allows for one pond to hold the fish while the other pond is being cleaned. This reduces stress on the fish.

Raised ponds eliminate the worry about rain run-off contaminates from pesticides and fertilizers used on the lawn.

Windows can be built into the side of the raised pond to view prized fish. However, this feature is best left to the professional pond installer and will add to the cost of construction.

Maintenance of a raised pond in the backyard water garden is much easier than a sunken pond. This is especially true for disabled or elderly gardeners who find it hard to do a lot of bending over. The skimmer and bio-falls are generally placed at an easy to access elevation.

One drawback to the raised pond in the backyard water garden is that it takes longer to build than a sunken pond. A raised pond can also be more expensive to build than a sunken pond.

A raised pond in the backyard water garden can also provide more safety than a sunken pond. Surrounding walls will prevent children and pets from falling into the pond.

Raised ponds used to be considered formal, but today’s raised ponds fit well into any type of landscape design.

Mumme’s Yard 2011

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2 82 8 t ht h W G S O W G S O P U B L I C P O N D TO U RP U B L I C P O N D TO U R Saturday* June 21 - 9 am to 6 pm Sunday June 22 - 1 pm to 6 pm

*SPECIAL HOURS - Select Homes on Public Night Tour - SAT NIGHT ONLY 9 am to 3 pm for Day Viewing ● 9 pm to 11 pm for Night Viewing

TOUR GUIDES ON SALE THE FIRST WEEKEND IN JUNE AT THE FOLLOWING RETAILERSTOUR GUIDES ON SALE THE FIRST WEEKEND IN JUNE AT THE FOLLOWING RETAILERS Call for Store Hours & Directions Call for Store Hours & Directions $ Denotes Retailers who offer WGSO Members Discounts

Buckley’s Sticks & Stones$ 9600 N I-35 Service Rd OKC 478-3188 Crosstimber Koi 300 Wade Martin Drive Edmond 340-9130 Decorative Water Gardens 2001 E Britton Rd OKC 359-0140 Edmond Rock 6401 N I-35 Frontage Rd Edmond 359-7625 Minick Materials #1 326 N Council Rd W OKC 789-2068 Minick Materials #2 14141 N Santa Fe N OKC 755-2068 Minick Materials #3 2724 Melba Lane Norman 329-2458 Pond Pro Shop$ 7901 N Kickapoo Shawnee 273-8363 The Real McKoi 11500 N Bryant N OKC 475-5562 TLC Nursery & Greenhouse #1 105 W Memorial Rd N OKC 751-0630 TLC Nursery & Greenhouse #2 8208 NW Expressway NW OKC 720-0091 Tony’s Tree Plantation 3801 S Post Rd E OKC 455-7700

WGSO

Saturday August 16 - 4 pm - 7 pm Potluck - WGSO Supplies the Meat

More Details at the June WGSO General Meeting

WWGSOGSO MeetMeet -- NN -- Greets Greets June 7 @ 10 am - Pond Build CLASS

at Pond Pro in Shawnee Earn Pond Dollars.

BOWLING BALL WORKSHOPBOWLING BALL WORKSHOP

Saturday June 14 @ 1 pm

Cost $10 per person

Payment Due by June 9

Waiting List Will Be Started

When Spaces Are Filled

For Details, Call

Diane Clark at 947-6999

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WGSO POND LIFE Paullei Mumme 645 E Frolich Dr Midwest City, OK 73110

Mailing Label

The 20th of each month is the deadline for articles/advertisements for next month’s issue of Pond Life. E-mail articles and advertisements to Paullei Mumme at [email protected].


www.wgso.org [email protected]

Adriana Alvarez, L D Baird, Kris Bley,

Mary Carter, Steve Chapman,

Larry Collier, Brandy Hokit,

Sue Jones, Karen Moss,

Donna Tinsley, Leo Trujillo

June 21 June 21 -- 2222

Documents

T PPRESIDENTRESIDENT MM...Waterfall Design Types..... pond looks at its best, start taking pictures so that you can have your pictures ready and 6 Members us Tour ..... 7 Seaming &