Page 1 of 13

Tablesaw Seven Pack

DP-00283 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003

Tablesaw Hold-Down System

Precision Miter Stop

Make Terrific Tablesaw Inserts

Seal Up Your Tablesaw

Stand-Tall Tablesaw Fence

Zero-Clearance Crosscut Sled

Rip-Fence Saddle

TM

Page 2 of 13

Tablesaw Hold-Down System

Birds of feather work wonders together. In this case, we’re talking about afeather board system, including a fence anti-lift mechanism that gives you

additional stock control and safety.

Fence anti-lift turn handle

Fully adjustable feather boards

Page 3 of 13TM

When working with your tablesaw,you’ll appreciate the additional stockcontrol and safety provided by thissimple feather board system.

Build a pair of feather boardassemblies using the drawing, above,as a guide, and attach the mini-channel to the mounting rail (whichyou may need to modify slightly to suityour fence).

Align the mounting rail flush withyour fence’s face. Then, drill pilotholes in the rail where shown, andmark their locations on the top of thefence. Drill and tap a hole to accept a#10-32 machine screw at each mark,then attach the rail assembly to thefence.

If your fence locks down at the backof the table, you won’t need to addthe anti-lift assembly shown in thedrawings. However, a fence that locks

only at the front will raise at the rearwithout this mechanism. To cut the20° rabbet, rip the dowel 2" down itscenter. Lay the dowel on your drill-press table, oriented as shown in theRabbet detail drawing, and bore the›" hole to accept the threaded rod.

Buying GuideHardware. Knobs, square-headchannel-bolts, and mini-channel for apair of feather boards. Kit no. TS-FB,$16.95 ppd. in U.S. Schlabaugh andSons Woodworking, 720 14th St.,Kalona, IA 52247. Call 800/346-9663to order.¿

Project Design: James R. Downing; Charles I. HedlundIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoinePhotograph: Steve Uzzell©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

20°

DOWEL END VIEW

RABBET DETAIL

‡ x 2 x 5" hardwood

FEATHER BOARD HOLDER DETAIL›", 3-wingplastic knobs

2‰" dado cut at 30° › x 2¤ x 8fi" hardwood

2‡"›" carriage bolt

2fi" long

 x 1‡" slot

2fi" 1fi x 1fi x 36"hardwood

MOUNTING RAIL

¸" hole tappedfor #10-32 screw

fi" rabbetfi" deep

3"6"1fi"

11"

¤" saw kerfsspaced ¤" apart

#10-32 x 2"F.H. machine screw

›" holeŒ" from end

1" dowel 5" long(¤" chamfer on ends)

›" hole

fi"

Mini-channel36" long

#6 x ‡" F.H.wood screw

›" square-headbolt 1fi" long

›" dowel‡" long

ANTI-LIFT ASSEMBLY

fi" rabbet 2" deep

›" hole Œ" from end(drill at a 20°angle to rabbet)

1" dowel 3fi" long(¤" chamfer on ends)

›" holefi" deepon bottom

2‰ x ›" dado cut at30°, centered on block

2fi"

fi"

›"

›" holesfi"

25⁄32"

›" holedrilled20° fromrabbet

3/8" stopnuts

3/8" threaded rod81/2" long

ANTI-LIFT MOUNTING DETAIL

5/16" flat washers

7/8"

Fence

3/8" stop nuts

3/8" stop nut

Sawtable

EXPLODED VIEW

TM

Page 4 of 13

Precision Miter StopMake it in minutes, use it as a lifetime addition to your shop.

2"

‹" all-thread rod2" long epoxiedonto knob

3"

‡" counterbore „" deep with aˇ" hole centered inside

2fi" rabbet‰" deep

1" rabbet‰" deep

‹" hole

fi"‹" T-nut

4fi"

‡" counterbore ‹" deep with aˇ" hole centered inside

‹" T-nut

1fi"fi"

Plasticknob

#14 panhead machine screw1‡" long

2"

‡"

¤" chamfer

R=fl"

1Å"

2fi"

‡"

1Å"

EXPLODED VIEW

Note: If you use this on amiter-gauge extension, ripthe extension to 2fl'' wide.

Use this handy stop on yourown 2fl"-wide miter-gaugeextension, or add it to yourradial-arm saw fence. It fits onthe fence, and allows you to cutpiece after piece to the samelength.¿

Project Design: James R. DowningPhotographs: HetheringtonPhotographyIllustration: Roxanne LeMoine©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

TM

Page 5 of 13

Make TerrificTablesaw Inserts

Table inserts are a snap to make with a trimming bit.

Photo shows the insert blank after being bandsawn to rough shape, but priorto being routed to exact shape.

No matter how finelysharpened a sawblade, dadoset, or molding knives may be,grain tearout can occur whenthe workpiece is notcompletely supported by thetable insert. To alleviate thatproblem, we followed theadvice of WOOD® magazinereader Michael Cosgrove, ofGoose Creek, South Carolina,and created zero-clearanceinserts for all our differentblades using a router andplywood scraps.

To make inserts, use double-faced tape to adhere your metaltablesaw insert to a plywoodblank the same exact thicknessas the metal insert. Then, cutthe plywood blank slightlyover-sized with a bandsaw,being extremely careful not tocut into the metal insert. Next,fit your router with a laminateflush-trimming bit. Adjust thesetting so the bit’s bearing ridesalong the edge of the metalinsert and the cutter contactsonly the wood. Rout theplywood to the exact shape asthe metal insert. Keep severalblanks on hand for a variety oftasks and blades.

Note: If you can't make ablank that is the samethickness as the tablesaw'soriginal insert, make one thatis slightly too thin. Then applydabs of hot-melt glue to thetablesaw's insert-supportsurfaces before putting theblank in place and setting itflush with the tabletop. ¿

©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

TM

Page 6 of 13

Seal Up Your Tablesaw

Contractor’s saws cost less than the cabinet style, but they spewall of the sawdust right into your workshop. Here’s a simple

way to set up a line of defense.

Shape the cover to fit tightly around theparts of your tablesaw. You’ll still kickup sawdust above the saw, but a lot ofthe dust will fall right in the bag.

All you need is a straightedge and a utility knife to makecardboard mock-ups for shop fixtures. Assemble thepieces with masking tape for a trial fitting.

A

B

TM

Page 7 of 13

Most contractor models areenclosed on three sides, but openon the back, where the motorhangs, and underneath. We used ¤"Baltic birch plywood to make a two-piece cover for the back.

Measure the outside dimensionsof the opening, then measure tofind where you need to leave gapsfor the belt and the motor mount.Again, use cardboard to arrive at theright shapes. Cut rectangular piecesto cover the various areas, as shownin Photo A, previous page, thentape those pieces together until youhave the final shape. Use that as apattern to cut the actual cover fromplywood.

As shown in Photo B, previouspage, one piece fits around the drivebelt and another slides over to meetit. The kerf above the belt openingallows you to flex the thin plywood

for installation. The lip glued ontothe mating piece covers any gap.

Self-adhesive Velcro strips,available at most fabric stores, serveto hold the dust cover to the saw.Cut them to size, and apply themwhere shown.

You’ll have to remove the coverto swing the saw blade to any angleother than 90°. The alternativewould be to cut a pathway for themotor mount to follow, whichwould open up an escape route forthe sawdust.

With all four sides sealed, you’reready to put a bag on the bottom.Check plan DP-00055 for acontractor’s saw base cabinet,complete with a trash bag holder.Or, you can buy a bag that snapsonto most contractor’s saws, asshown in Photo B, after you’vedrilled the necessary holes. Order

part number 140298, by callingWoodcraft at 800/225-1153 or logon to www.woodcraft.com.¿

Written by Jim Pollock with James R.DowningPhotographs: Marty BaldwinIllustrations: Kim Downing; LornaJohnson

Saw kerf allowspanel to slipover belt.

¤ x 1" flap overlaps mating panel(glued to right dust panel)

‡" self-adhesive Velcro appliedto saw and dust panel

Belt opening

Right dust cover (¤" plywood)

Left dust cover(¤" plywood)

‡" self-adhesiveVelcro applied tosaw and dust panel

Opening for motormount bars

Opening forsplitter guard

¤" plywood hingeddust cover closesexcess opening

in dust panel

Splitter guard mount

Motor mount bars

#8 x fi" P.H. screw

ASSEMBLYTABLESAW DUST COVER

TM

Page 8 of 13

Stand-Tall Tablesaw Fence

Here’s a simple fixture that makes workpieces stand upright and ready for cutting.

TM

Page 9 of 13

#8 x 1‹" F.H.wood screws

2"

8‹"

1‡"‡" continuoushinge 9" long

4fi"

‡ x 16‡ x 31"plywood Hook-and-loop fastener

(hook side)

Cross member‡ x 1‡ x 28" stock

1fi"

‡ x 1‡ x 8‹"stock

1" hole(for hanging)

‹" T-nut

‡" counterbore¤" deep on frontface with a ˇ" holecentered inside

1‹"

1›"6"

Length of screw=widthof tablesaw fence + fi"

13‡"

5‹"

3‡"

15‡"

‡" groove‹" deep, centered

2fi"

2fi"

‹" washer

1‡"

‹" wingnut

‹-20 R.H.machine screw

RemoveableSpreader‹ x ‡ x 26fi" stock

Hook-and-loopfastener (loop side)‡" hole ¤" deep

with a ˇ" hole1" deep centered inside

‹" leveling glide

‹" T-nut

2fi"

GLIDE MOUNTING DETAIL

Front orrear web

Leveling glide

‹" T-nut

ˇ" hole1" deep

EXPLODED VIEW

Now you can stand workpieces,such as raised panels, upright andcut their edges on your tablesaw.Just use this auxiliary tablesawfence designed by WOOD®magazine reader Joe Xaver ofAuburn, Illinois. The jig boltstemporarily to your saw’s existingfence to let you make these cutssafely and accurately, and foldingsupports make for flat storage.

Before you begin, take a fewmeasurements from your saw toensure proper fit. First, examineyour saw’s existing fence to see ifdrilling it for the machine screws,where shown in the drawing above

will interfere with the fence’soperation, and adjust the locations ifnecessary. For webbed extensionwings, measure between thecenters of the webs at the front andrear of the extensions. Make theremovable spreader this length, andadd 1fi" to find the length of thecrossmember. (The dimensionsshown are for a table that is 26fi"between the centers of the frontand rear webs.) For saws with solidextension wings, shorten thedimensions shown for those piecesby 4".

Armed with that information,build the auxiliary fence as shownin the drawing. Drill ˇ" holes in

your fence to match the location ofthe t-nuts, and bolt the tall fence toyour saw’s fence as shown in thephoto, previous page.

Before using the jig for the firsttime, adjust the nylon glides so thetall fence is perpendicular to yoursaw’s table top. When you’re done,unbolt the unit from your fence,pop out the removable spreader(attach it to the top edge of thecrossmember for storage), fold upthe legs, and hang the unit on awall.¿

Illustration: Roxanne LeMoinePhotograph: Hetherington Photography©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

TM

Page 10 of 13

Zero-ClearanceCrosscut Sled

Ditch the miter gauge to increase the accuracy of your benchtop tablesaw.

TM

Page 11 of 13

If you have zero tolerance for tear-out and inaccurate cuts, you’ll enjoythe results you get with this zero-clearance crosscut sled designed byWOOD® magazine reader DanPacht. He uses the sled to increasethe precision of his benchtoptablesaw. It replaces the wobblymiter gauge, and reduces tear-out byclosing the gap in the saw’s wide-open throat plate. You also couldmodify the sled for use with astationary tablesaw.

Start by cutting a ‹" hardboardbase to size. Now square the edgesof a pine 2×4, ripping it to 3" wide.From it, cut two 24"-long pieces,and glue and screw them togetherto form an L-shaped fence assembly.Then glue it to the hardboard base.Next, make a pair of hardwoodrunners to fit your miter-gauge slots.

The runners should fit snugly butstill be able to slide.

Place the runners into their slotsand run a small bead of glue alongeach one where the sled’s base willcover them. Center the base/fenceassembly side-to-side on your saw’stable. Square the sled’s fence to thesaw blade by placing a framingsquare against the fence face andalong the face of the blade. Allowthe glue to dry.

Drill countersunk pilot holes inthe base, and drive screws throughit into the runners. Turn the sledover, and screw each runner intothe base/fence assembly. Add ascrew eye at one end of the fence sothe sled can hang when not in use.

Note: This sled is designed for ‡"-thick stock. To safely cut thicker

stock, add a 1fi×3×4" block behindthe fence, aligned with the sawkerf, to encase the blade.

Finally, make the optionalstopblock if you wish, and you’reready to go. Simply place therunners into the slots, and raise yourblade 1‹" above the saw table.Glide the sled forward until the topof the blade cuts into the fence,then back out of the cut. Nowcrosscut your workpiece. ¿

Written by Robert SettichProject design: Dan PachtIllustration: Roxanne LeMoine; LornaJohnsonPhotograph: Marty Baldwin©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

Screw eye for hanging

STOPBLOCK

#4 x 3/8" F.H. wood screwin a 1/16" countersunk hole

#8 x 11/4" F.H. wood screw in a 3/32" countersunk hole

10"

Sized to fitmiter slot 18" long

24"

3" 3"

6"

11/2"

ZERO-CLEARANCE CROSSCUT SLED

#8 x 21/2" F.H. wood screw35/8"

3"

3/4 x 11/4 x 3" stock

1/4" hardboard

11/2"

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screw

5/32" shank hole, countersunk

5/32" shank hole, countersunk

TM

Page 12 of 13

Rip-fence SaddleAn inexpensive, shop-built jig for top-notch machining and joinery

Positioned to center the workpiece over the dado blade, the jig is the perfect setup for machining bridlejoints or open mortises and the mating tenons.

TM

Page 13 of 13

2"

8"

8"

1"

fi x 1 x 8" stock(vertical support)

‡ x 2 x 8" stock

‡ x 8 x 8" plywood

‡ x 1‹ x 8" stock 1‹"

‡ x 4" auxiliarywood fence

secured to rip fence

4"

Workpiece

‡"

Tablesaw rip fence

Tablesaw

Saddle

Auxiliary rip fence

RIP-FENCE SADDLE

Build this auxiliary wood fence and mating saddle to bevel-cutthe post caps for the pergola on page 61, of the April 2002issue of WOOD magazine, or build it for supporting stiles andother workpieces as shown in the photo on the previous page.Use one hand to push the saddle and workpiece across theblade, and your other hand to keep the saddle riding firmly onthe auxiliary fence. Wax the mating pieces if necessary for easysliding.

Note: Our auxiliary fence is screwed securely to our metaltablesaw rip fence, with the top edge of the fence sitting 1"above the top edge of the metal fence. The auxiliary fencemust be 90° to the saw table. Size your wood fence so thesaddle rides smoothly, without free play, along the top edgeof the auxiliary fence. ¿

Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine; Tim CahillPhotograph: Marty Baldwin©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002