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CONTENTS EDITORS NOTE

FEATURED JEWELRY MAKING TUTORIALS

Felt Parrot Earrings by Jocelina

Sunshine Hoop Earrings by Sky Aldovino

Baby Blue Eyes Flower Dangle Earrings

by Sky Aldovino

JEWELRY BIZ

How to Price Your Handmade Jewelry for Profit


Owls Earrings and Pendants by Honey Moser

Rebecca Earrings by Deborah Hodoyer

Quilling Necklace by Giulia Talmacel

Mosaic Pendant Rainbow Fish by Irene

FEATURED ARTICLE:

Enchanting Jewelry

RECOMMENDED JEWELRY MAKING SUPPLIES Bead, amethyst (natural), dark

Bead, carnelian (dyed / heated)

Bead, smoky quartz (heated / irradiated)

Bead, sky blue topaz (irradiated)

BLOG: DIY BEADING MAGAZINE ISSUE 31 BLOG: WWW.HANDMADE-JEWELRY-CLUB.COM MEMBERSHIP: WWW.DIYBEADINGCLUB.COM

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CONTENTS


Droplet Pendant by Lynde VonHatten

RECOMMENDED READINGS

Bead Quilled Jewelry: New Beadwork Designs

with Square Stitch

Creative Beaded Jewelry: 33 Exquisite Designs

Inspired by the Arts of China, Japan, India

and Tibet

Creative Beading Vol. 6

Creative Designs Using Shaped Beads


The OhNecklace by Sky Aldovino



Blog: www.handmade-jewelry-club.com

Membership: www.diybeadingclub.com

Join The Fun!

Want a hand with something different? We

have this month tutorials of creative shapes!

These tutorials are bound to tickle your creative

side and get you pumped up to take on any

challenge! We bring to you this month's issue

creative shapes for jewelry making and also

tips on how to price your handmade jewelry

pieces for profit! Have fun with jewelry making

so that you can have many interesting designs to share with the world. Let us continue to

make wonderful and amazing jewelry pieces

together!

Editors Note

Welcome to DIY Beading Magazine

Jane Chew


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Felt Parrot Earrings

Materials: - Cabochon (approimately 18 x 24 inches) - Lacy's Stiff Stuff Beading Foundation - E600 glue



Step 1 Step 2

Step 3 Step 4

Step 5 Step 6

Step 7 Step 8




Step 9 Step 10

Step 11 Step 12

Step 13

Done!




About the Author

Jocelina

My name is Jocelina and I love to create! I hope to inspire you in many ways!

My sewing tutorials are easy and dummy proof because I'm not an expert myself but I'm in love with the craft. So instead of going for the conventional, complicated way I DIY'ed my

sewing method to fit my needs: It needs to be quick to make, easy, very stylish & colorful :D I love color so if you every see me you will be able to spot me from miles away as I'm a

colorful unicorn that stands out with her red natural hair and bright colors I love to mix & rock every day!

I'm based mainly in Rotterdam - Holland but love to travel all around the world. So if you want to team up and create magic together, email me and who knows where we will meet:

New York, Tokyo, Mexico, Jamaica, or Cuba? Yes please!

Follow me: http://www.instagram.com/pinkchocolatebreak For business inquiries please contact me at :[email protected]

Visit me:

https://www.youtube.com/user/pinkchocolatebreak https://www.facebook.com/pinkchocolatebreak


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I am sure that these pair of earrings will make you smile. They're like sunshine;

bright, sunny and will make you feel happy. The earrings when finished is

approximately 32mm in diameter, just perfect as hoop earrings. You can also

apply the techniques you will learn with different size of closed rings, in case

you want your hoop earrings bigger.

The tutorial is catered for beginners or anyone who loves to learn Circular

Brickstitch Around a Ring or bead. It has in-depth instructions and ultra-clear,

close-up photos at each step. Additionally, you can ask me question you have on

the tutorial. No more getting stuck and frustrated on a confusing or just plain

inaccurate pattern.

If you followed this tutorial and then sell the accessory or jewelry, please give

credit to the author or DIY Beading Club.com

Copyright 2015

www.diybeadingclub.com

www.handmade-jewelry-club.com

Sunshine Hoop Earrings



Materials Needed:

(A) 11/0 Permanent Finish Galvanized Saffron Toho seedbeads

(B) 15/0 Permanent Finish Galvanized Saffron Toho seedbeads

(C) 3mm Yellow pearls

(D) 4mm Yellow pearls

(E) 8mm Yellow pearls

16mm closed rings

0.006" Crystal Fireline beading thread

ear wires

21ga jump rings

Tools Needed:

Beading Needle size 11 or 12

Scissors

Flat nose pliers

Beading Techniques:

Circular Brickstitch Around a Ring or bead

Skill Level:

Beginners


Step 1:

Cut an arm span of thread. Bring up the

closed ring and tie knot, leaving at least 6 -

7 inches tail. Then continue to string D, B

& D. Now bring your thread under and

around the ring and then pass back thru

the last pearl strung. Pull the thread.




Step 2:

You have your thread coming out the last

pearl. String B & D. Bring your thread

under and around the ring again and pass

back thru the pearl you just strung. Pull

the thread.

Repeat previous step until you reach the end

of the round with (15) 4mm pearls sewn

onto the ring. When you reach the last pearl,

string B and pass thru the very 1st pearl,

going under and around the ring and come

out the 1st pearl.

Step 3:

Now let's weave the sun rays. Coming out of D, string C and A. Use A as your

anchor bead so you need to pass back thru C. Same thing, go under and around

the ring and then pass back thru D.

Then you continue to pass the next B and D but you need to come out D in

vertical position. So position your thread by going under and around the ring

and then pass back thru D.

Repeat the step until you reach the end of the round.

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Step 2:

Now we have reached the end of the round and on

the very 1st pearl again. Create your bail using right

angle weave.

After you have created the bail, pass back thru the

pearls again and string A, E & A.

Use A as your anchor bead. Pass back thru E and

A. Go under the ring and pass back thru D.

From here you can secure your thread by passing

thru several pearls and beads and making knots. Cut

off any excess thread.

Step 5:

Repeat from Step and create a pair.

Attach your ear wires using 21ga

jump rings and voila! Your Sunshine

Hoop Earring will surely make you

smile.

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About the Author

Sky Aldovino

I consider myself a late bloomer when it comes to crafting. Im a self-taught jewelry maker. Jewelry making wasnt really a hobby of mine, but unforeseen events lead me to learn jewellery making. My family put up a craft store where we sell cross stitch, beads and all sorts of crafting materials. I fell in love with the beads and tried to create accessories only for myself. Clients liked the pieces and I started customizing handmade jewelleries. The craft store was a success for 6 years, but like any other small businesses we had to close it down and I was confined to staying at home. While at home I had all the time using the internet and now working as a home-based jewelry designer.

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BLOG: WWW.HANDMADE-JEWELRY-CLUB.COM MEMBERSHIP: WWW.DIYBEADINGCLUB.COM

Combine wirework and beadweaving and you can create awesome jewelry pieces like the Baby Blue Eyes flowers. Yes, they're color blue

flowers, just like the pearls and seedbeads used to create the earrings.

The tutorial is suited for intermediate level. One must have knowledge in wirework and circular brickstitch around a ring or bead.

It has in-depth instructions and ultra-clear, close-up photos at each step. Additionally, you can ask me question you have on the tutorial.

No more getting stuck and frustrated on a confusing or just plain inaccurate pattern.

If you followed this tutorial and then sell the accessory or jewelry,

please give credit to the author or DIY Beading Club.com

Copyright 2015 www.diybeadingclub.com

www.handmade-jewelry-club.com


BLOG: DIY BEADING MAGAZINE ISSUE 31



Materials Needed: 20ga Craft Wire 12mm diameter closed jump rings 4mm Blue Turquoise pearls 11/0 Metallic Cosmos Toho seedbeads 15/0 Metallic Cosmos Toho seedbeads Ear wires 0.006" Crystal Fireline beading thread Tools Needed: Wigjig Centaur 1.5mm diameter pegs Wire cutter Flat nose pliers Round nose pliers Jewelry Making Techniques: Beadweaving - Circular Brickstitch Around a Ring Wirework Skill Level: Intermediate

Step 1: Prepare your wigjig tool. I am using a Centaur and this is what the template

look like.





Arrange your pegs like so. You see there are red dots and that is where you place

your 1.5mm diameter pegs.

Step 2. Let's create 10 loops. Cut 24 inches of

20ga wire. Leaving at least 2 inches tail, loop the wire onto the pegs. Follow the

arrow.

Here is what it looks like on my wigjig. It is difficult to see because of the

transparent material of the tool but you'll see I have a tape on there to help

me hold the wire in place.





Take note that this will only make half of the circle so when you reach the last loop you need to pull out the wire from

the tool and place again to continue making loops.

...and this is what it looks like when you're done. You have 10 loops and the

end of the wires are going upwards.

Step 3: Measure 1-inch from the bottom of the

loop up to the extended wire.

With your round nose pliers take 1 wire and make a loop.





Using your flat nose pliers bring the wires together and wrap the wire with

the loop.

Cut off any excess wires.

Repeat from Step 1. Create a pair and then set aside.

Step 4: Let's do beadweaving this time. Cut an

arm spam of thread. Bring up your 12mm closed ring and tie a knot, leaving at least 6 - 7 inches tail. String 4mm pearl, 15/0

seedbead and 4mm pearl. Bring the thread under and then over and around the ring to pass back thru the pearl last

strung. Pull the thread.





Step 5: Continue to string 15/0 seedbead and

4mm pearl. Bring the thread under and then over and around the ring to pass

back thru the pearl just strung. Pull the thread.

Step 6: Repeat Step 5 until you reach the end of the

round and has 12 pearls on the ring. When you reach the 12th pearl, string 15/0 seedbead and then pass the thread thru the very 1st pearl of the round. Go under then over and around the

ring to pass back thru the 1st pearl.

Step 7: Take a look at the finished piece. You'll

notice that the each pearl is in-line with the each of the bottom curves. Now we need to attach the brickstitch piece onto

the curves.

Come out a pearl. String 11/0 seedbead. Hook your thread onto the 1st bottom curve then pass back thru the 11/0 seedbead and pearl. Continue to go under and over then around the ring to pass back thru the pearl

again.






Step 8: Pass the thread into the next 15/0 and

pearl. Go under and over then around the ring to pass back thru the pearl again.

String 11/0 seedbead and Repeat Step 7 then Step 8 until you finish all bottom

curves.

Step 9: When you reach the last pearl, try and

come out the next pearl. String 4mm and 11/0 seedbead. Make the seedbead as your anchor bead so you need to pass back thru

the pearl you just strung. From here you can now secure your thread. Pass thru

several pearls and beads, make knots and cut off any excess thread.

Step 10: Repeat Step 4 to 9 and create a pair.

Attach your ear wires and voila! You're done!



About the Author

Sky Aldovino

I consider myself a late bloomer when it comes to crafting. Im a self-taught jewelry maker. Jewelry making wasnt really a hobby of mine, but unforeseen events lead me to learn jewellery making. My family put up a craft store where we sell cross stitch, beads and all sorts of crafting materials. I fell in love with the beads and tried to create accessories only for myself. Clients liked the pieces and I started customizing handmade jewelleries. The craft store was a success for 6 years, but like any other small businesses we had to close it down and I was confined to staying at home. While at home I had all the time using the internet and now working as a home-based jewelry designer.


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How to Price Your Handmade Jewelry

for Profit



Do you have a structured way to calculate how much you should sell for your handmade jewelries? When I first started out, I did not have a consistent approach for

pricing my jewelries. Most of the pricing I came up with were based on my gut-feeling. I simply marked up from the cost of materials used for the creations and

priced it accordingly. After awhile, I found that I have under estimated my cost and I have been running my business at a loss!. I have practically omitted some of the

essential costs into my pricing!

Pricing your work is probably one of the most difficult decisions to make in running your business. Price your work too high and you limit sales, possibly pricing yourself

right out of business. Price your work to low and youll give your labor away, as well as your profit.

Just like me, most beginning artists and jewelry designers will price their work too low, hoping that they can sell off their creations easier and faster. Well, that is not a wrong

approach if you intend to build up reputation at selling marketplaces such as Etsy, Arffre, eBay etc. Also, there will be an inevitable learning curve for new artists, where they will take time in perfecting their techniques. Due to this learning curve, even if the design is the same, the quality of early pieces will be dramatically different from those of later pieces. Were all constantly improving and perfecting our techniques.

Just think of yourself as a jewelry making apprentice. As your skill improves so should your hourly rate.

This allows for small price increases over time that can easily be explained as

inflationary; however, if you start out giving your work away you will not only give the illusion that your work isnt worthy of a decent price but any customer base you build

will suddenly turn up their noses when you see the light and raise your prices to fit what they are truly worth. Does that mean you should start charging premium prices

right out of the gate?




The key is to be sure that any jewelry pricing formula you use compensates you for: Cost of Goods

Your overhead expenses Your time/ Labor Cost

Calculating Cost of Goods Sold

Cost of Goods Sold (COGS) are technically direct expenses incurred in producing your jewelry or other craft creations. The main component for this usually comes from raw materials or supplies used to make your creations. Example of raw materials include

beads, findings, ribbon, paper etc.

There are also other expenses such as packaging cost such as stamps, label, envelope, courier charges to deliver your package to your customers. For example, if you make a necklace and you spend $5 on supplies and $2 for delivery charges, your cost of goods

would be $7.

Of course, to be competitive with others, your cost of goods should be as low as possible. So its important to purchase your supplies at the lowest possible price at wholesale or at bulk discounts as much as possible. Naturally, if you purchased your supplies at higher price than others, your final pricing will need to go higher as well.

This might put off some customers for you.




Calculating Overhead Expenses

Operational Cost are all cost incurred just to maintain existence. Operational cost would include, rent on office space, electricity , insurance, tools, advertising, and wages of persons not directly attributed to production of the product. Once you have your annual operational cost you can

distribute this cost to an individual product. There are a few ways where you can distribute your operational cost. The easiest way is you can estimate number of creation you can make in a year and use total operational cost to divide with total number of products you can create. For example, say your operational cost for the year is $6000 and the total number

of creation you expect to produce is 1200.

$6000/600 = $5 is your overhead per item made.

So you would add $5 to the cost of your earrings as overhead.

Calculating Your Labor Cost

If you have employees, labor costs have to be factored in as well. I find this easier to do than raw materials, as youll probably pay most craft help by the

piece rather than by the hour. So, if you pay a crafter $10 to make one piece of necklace, that amount is also added to the necklaces cost.

Dont forget your own labor. Just because youre the owner doesnt mean that

your labor is any less a COGS than the crafters you hire to help. Many craft business owners either have the tendency to undervalue the worth of their own time or havent adequately figured out how much time it takes them to

get their craft item to market. Dont fall into this trap your time is important! Make sure you figure it into the final cost of your product.

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To determine your own personal time cost, simply follow these steps: Estimate how long it takes to make one item. Decide how much money you wish to earn per

hour of creating crafts. Multiply total hours with your hourly cost to get

the final time cost. For example, if you wish to earn $15 per hour and

you use 2 hours to make an item, your total labor cost for this item is $30.

Calculating Your Total Cost

Lets use our previous example and add to it. Lets say our COGS for the necklace are $7, and we expect to pay someone $8.00 an hour to produce

them and overhead is $5. So our earrings so far are costing us:

COGS $ 7.00 Plus Overhead $ 5

Wages $8.00

- Total Cost $20.00

__________________________________

The total cost is $20 which is your break even point. What is a break even point? Just what it sounds like, this is the point where youve made neither a loss nor a gain. If you sell your earrings for $15 youve sold it at a loss. If you are selling at $20, youve broken even. Of course no one wants to just break even but if you

dont know what that point is youll never know if you are losing money or making a profit.

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Determining Your Profit

This is where you would decide what you want to be able to make off a piece. A lot of factors go into this decision including your customer base, quality of

materials, market venue, and your competition. This is where a little trial and error is necessary. First, determine who your customer is. You probably should

have done this before you even started thinking about selling your first piece of jewelry but if you havent done so already do it now. Sit down with a piece of

paper and write down some descriptive characteristics about your target customer.

A standard markup is cost x 2. However, jewelry is usually priced higher than most goods so cost times 3, 4, 5, 6 even 10 is not unreasonable. So you can

decide this mark up rate based on the factors mentioned above for your business. Generally, you can price your items higher if you are selling directly to your

customers. We call this price as retail price. Usually, most jewelry makers would apply a retail mark-up of 400% (4x) from your total cost. If you sell your pieces at

wholesale or on consignment to a shop, you would generally sell it at a lower mark up rate. Wholesale and consignment prices are typically 50% to 60% of your retail price. The shop owner who buys it from you at wholesale would then turn

around and retail-price and sell it to a customer who comes into the shop.

Your wholesale price gives you a much smaller profit margin on your creation. So wholesale pricing usually requires the shop owner to purchase a minimum

quantity of 6, 10, 12 items at a time. When you make and sell multiples of an item, your manufacturing and selling costs are lower, and you make up for the

smaller per-item profit by selling more items at a time.




Calculating the Selling Price

To sum it up, the formula to compute the selling pricing would be: (Cost of Goods Sold + Pro-rated Labor Cost + Overhead Cost) X Markup %

It is that easy! You can purchase our Jewelry Pricing and Materials Inventory

spreadsheets!

You can choose from these options:

Besides pricing, you can use this software for material inventory and product creation management.

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We have the Excel/Desktop Application and the Cloud Hosted Google Spreadsheet version. Both version has the following features:

Key Features Calculating pricing for your creations Keeping track of type of materials used and purchased for your business. Keeping track of available quantity for raw materials. Creating your product listing in a central database.

There are additional benefits if you opt to use the version based on Google Spreadsheet which are listed below: You can key in and access your program or database from any device such as

desktop based PC, Android, iPhone or iPad as long as there is a internet connection.

You and your team can work on the file together at the same time across teams, companies and locations. You can share the spreadsheet with others and assign appropriate roles to allow them to edit or view the file.

Your data is always backed up, and you dont have to worry about losing it if something happens to your computer.

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The Excel/Desktop Application does not allow cloud hosting; however, the loading time for the desktop based application is much faster than Google

Spreadsheet.

Interested on the Jewelry Pricing and Materials Inventory spreadsheets! Choose from these options:

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Owls Earrings and Pendants


This tutorial includes instructions for: Basic Quilling Instructions

Simple Owl small & medium Oval Owl small, medium & large Feathery Owl small & medium Double Owl medium & large

Each design can be used as a pendant, earrings, or other decoration

Insert end of quilling paper into slot of slotted quilling tool. Turn the tool (in either

direction) while gently but firmly holding the paper between your thumb and forefinger. This helps make sure that the paper stays straight while you are rolling. When you get to the end pull the scroll carefully from the tool. The best way to do this is to make sure your thumbnail is touching the tool, right below the scroll. This

is to make sure that the scroll comes off all at once. If the scroll is a bit tight and you dont do this, then the whole scroll can unravel

when you pull it off of the tool. Once the scroll is off of the tool you can immediately glue it closed if you want a

tight roll.

For a loose roll, set it down to expand to the size you want, or place it into a circle sizing template/board. Then glue it closed. Pinch it to make the shape you want!




Loose Roll Shapes: Here are the basic loose roll shapes that are featured in the designs in this tutorial. If

you are unsure about how to make any of the shapes in the designs, come back to this section to check!

Teardrop: Start with a closed loose roll. Pinch one end to make the teardrop shape.

Marquis: Pinch both ends of a closed loose roll evenly to make a marquis/eye shape.

Leaf: Start with a marquis. With fingers pinching both ends, bend one up and one down to make the leaf shape.

Curved Teardrop: Start with a teardrop. Support the rounded end with two fingers. Use the other hand to firmly flatten and shape into a curve.

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Triangle: Start with a teardrop. Support the pointed end in one hand while flattening the curved end into a general triangle shape. Pinch the corners to make them sharp.

Tight roll: When you use a slotted tool to make a tight roll, you will notice you are left with a little line

inside of your tight roll. If you like the look of this, by all means leave it that way. If you prefer to have a little round hole in the middle of your tight rolls there are two things you

can do. Firstly, you can choose to use a needle tool to make your tight rolls. This takes a little more practice than using a slotted tool, but once you get the hang of it you can do it quickly. If you roll your paper near the top of your needle tool you can get the inside to be very tiny

indeed! The other option is to use a slotted tool, glue your tight roll closed, and then use the needle tool to move the little straight piece to the side to make it a round middle. This is shown in

these photos:

For this tutorial you will not need to worry about the center for the body parts. But when making the owl eyes, it will look much better if the centers are round holes.

Tiny Tight Roll: These tiny tight rolls are used to make the foot claws in some of the designs. I use a 1 or

length of paper to make a tiny tight roll. Then just pinch it flat!

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Large Tight Roll: The base of all of these owls are made with large tight rolls, made of several pieces of quilling paper glued together in a long line. Start just as you would a regular tight roll. When it starts getting bigger, make sure to support it well with your fingers as in the

fourth photo here:

There are several ways to make the top of the owls so that you can put jump rings to make them into jewelry. One of my favorite ways (as it doesnt interfere with the design and it is

very sturdy) is to insert a tiny tight roll into the large roll. To do this, stop rolling approximately 6-12 from the end (leave the longer length for larger rolls). Put a dab of glue

on the roll as seen in the first photo below to glue the roll in place. Take it carefully off of the tool. Then place another dab of glue and place the tiny roll onto it. Wrap the rest of the

paper length around the shape (it should go around 2-3 times)

Now you have a round large solid base! But for these owl designs I like to have more of an oval. You certainly could keep the circle if youd like! If you want an oval, pinch the circle sideways. When using a narrow paper this can be a bit tricky. I like to support the shape

with my fingers and thumb of one hand as much as possible while firmly squeezing the sides of the circle. Since it is a tight roll you have to be quite firm about it!

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Combining colors and/or strips For all of these owl patterns you will need to glue strips of paper together. Sometimes it is

the same color, sometimes they are different colors. When you glue two strips together it is easiest to make sure that at least one of the ends has been torn instead of cut. This allows them to stick more easily. Put a tiny dab of glue on the end of one piece, then lay the other piece on top. Line it up just right and press firmly together. Allow the strips to dry before

rolling them or else they may come apart as you try to roll.

Tips, Tricks, and Hints 1. If you want the ends of your strips to glue more easily and blend in better with your shape, rip

your paper strips instead of cutting them.

2. Quilling paper comes in different weights, some thicker and some thinner. This doesnt affect shapes if you are using loose rolls and a circle sizing guide, but if you are making tight rolls this can make a difference to the size of your roll. If you find that your roll is too small/big, just adjust the length of the paper accordingly. For most designs it is fine if the roll is not exactly the same size.

3. The size of your tight rolls can also vary depending on the quilling tool you use. If you use a needle tool your hole will be smaller and therefore your roll will be smaller. Some slotted tools

have larger diameters than others, so you can get varying sizes there as well. I have several tools so that I can use whichever one I want depending on the look Im going for. Sometimes I like the

look of a small hole, sometimes a larger hole.

4. I use 1/8 (3mm) width paper for most of my jewelry. I find that it is the perfect width to be sturdy, but still look delicate. It is also the right width to be able to fit on a medium size jumpring.

Feel free to use any width of paper you choose, realizing that for wider papers you will need wider jumprings. For these particular owl designs, I have used 1/16 (narrow) width for most of the

bases and some other pieces. Since these are double layer designs I found it to my liking to use some narrow papers and some 1/8 width papers. You can use any width that youd like.

5. I mention specific colors in each tutorial to make it easier for you to recognize which pieces I am talking about. However, feel free to change to any color(s) you wish for all of the designs. I also

mention which widths I use in each tutorial. Again, feel free to change that to any width that you prefer.

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Tutorial for Simple Owl For all of the simple owl designs I used all 1/8 (3mm) width paper.

Supplies for 2 SMALL simple owls for a pair of earrings For body: 2 strips of spring green 24 long 2 strips of aqua 24 long For eyes: 4 strips of black 1 long 4 strips of ivory 3 long 4 strips of deep aqua 3 long For nose: 2 strips of deep aqua 1 long

slotted quilling tool glue needle tool (optional) tweezers (optional)

1. For each body, glue together one spring green and one aqua strip. Rip off 1 length from the end of the aqua color. Roll this into a tight roll with an empty middle. Roll the strip starting with the spring green end. When you have about 6 of the aqua end left, glue the tight roll on and continue wrapping the last 5 of length around

your body shape. Glue into place. Pinch the two sides carefully so that your finished tight circle body is more of an oval shape, with the added tight roll at the top to put

in the jump ring to make it into earrings.

2. For the eyes, glue together a black, ivory, and deep aqua strip. Allow it to dry. Start rolling from the black end, and glue into a tight roll. Repeat for the other eye. For the

nose, roll the 1 deep aqua piece. Let it expand into a loose roll. Glue it closed to the size that you want, and pinch into a triangle shape.

3. To assemble, pour a little glue onto a surface and dip your eyes and nose pieces into

the glue. I like to use tweezers for this as the pieces are quite small. Place the eyes and nose onto the base, and adjust as necessary. Repeat for the second owl.




Supplies for 2 MEDIUM simple owls for a pair of earrings For body: 6 strips of spring green 24 long 2 strips of aqua 24 long For eyes: 4 strips of black 3 long 4 strips of ivory 6 long 4 strips of deep aqua 6 long For nose: 2 strips of deep aqua 2-3 long (depending on how big you want your beak to be)


1. Follow the same instructions as for the small simple owl. Each body will have 3 strips of

green and one strip of aqua. For the medium size you can stop wrapping the body piece when you have about 9 length left. Then glue on your 1 tight roll and continue

wrapping around it and the body roll. Glue closed. Here are photos of the pieces after they are made, and then both of the medium size owls after assembling.

NOTES: If you wish to make an earring and pendant set, make two of the small owls for the earrings and one of the

medium size for the pendant. Or make three of the medium size if you wish the earrings to be the same size as the pendant. Use longer strips to make even larger owls!

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Tutorial for Oval Owl For all of the oval owl designs I used narrow (1/16 or 1.5mm) width paper for the oval base

and claws, and 1/8 (3mm) width paper for the rest (eyes, beak, wings, horns). Supplies for one LARGE oval owl for a pendant (double if you want two large earrings) This owl measures approximately 1 (3.2cm) wide and 1 (3.7cm) tall For body: 9 strips of grey 24 long For eyes: 2 strips of black 6 long 2 strips of yellow 12 long 2 strips of black 12 long For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 6 long For wings: 2 strips of black 9 long

1. For each body, glue together the 9 strips of 24 length paper. Rip of a 1 length from the end. Roll this into a tight roll with an empty middle. Roll the long strip into a large flat

tight roll. When you have about 12 left, glue on the small tight roll that you made with the 1 piece. Continue winding the leftover 12 around and over the small tight roll (this is

where you will put the jump ring in). Glue the end down when you come to it and allow it to dry. Now you need to squish your circle into an oval shape. Make sure when you squeeze it into an oval that the hole for your jump ring is at a narrow end of your oval. See beginning

instructions for how to carefully make your oval shape. 2. To make the eyes, glue together the three eye strips. Start with the shorter black strip and roll a tight roll. Glue the end in place. For the wings, roll a loose coil, glue into place. Pinch one end into a teardrop shape and then curve it into the wing shape. For the beak, roll the strip into a loose coil and glue. Pinch both ends. For the claws, roll the 1 strips

into tight rolls and glue closed. Pinch them flat. 3. Assemble your owl by dipping your pieces into glue and then placing onto your oval. I

find it easier to use tweezers for this step! Adjust as necessary. I place the beak so that it covers up the center hole of the body.

Claws: 6 strips of bright yellow 1 long Horn Feathers (optional!): 2 strips of 6-12 grey paper (the longer the strip, the bigger the horn feathers!)


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4. Optional: to add horn feathers, roll the strips into loose coils and glue closed. Pinch both ends so you have a leaf shape and then bend each end so you have an S shape. Glue the

horn feathers right on top of the eyes. I did not add feather horns to my grey owl, but here are two other color combinations to which I added horn feathers. For these horn feathers I

used 6 length paper.

Supplies for one MEDIUM oval owl for a pendant (double if you want two earrings) This owl measures approximately (2cm) wide and 1 (2.5cm) tall. For body: 4 strips of grey 24 long For eyes: 2 strips of black 3 long 2 strips of yellow 6 long 2 strips of black 6 long For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 3 long For wings: 2 strips of black 3 long

1. Follow the instructions for the large oval owl, but with the length of pieces indicated above. For the body you can glue in the 1 tight roll when you have approximately 9 of paper strip left of the body roll. For the claws I put the flattened rolls on their side instead

of on edge.

Claws: 2 strips of bright yellow 1 long Horn Feathers (optional!): 2 strips of 3-6 grey paper (the longer the strip, the bigger the horn feathers!) slotted quilling tool glue needle tool (optional) tweezers (optional)

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2. Optional: to add horn feathers, roll the strips into loose coils and glue closed. Pinch both ends so you have a leaf shape and then bend each end so you have an S shape. Glue the

horn feathers right on top of the eyes. I did not add feather horns to my grey owl, but here are two other color combinations to which I added horn feathers. For the larger feather

horns on the brown earrings I used 6 strips. For the smaller feather horns on the pink owl I used 3 strips.

Supplies for one SMALL oval owl for a pendant (double if you want two earrings) This owl measures approximately 9/16 (1.5cm) wide and (2cm) tall. For body: 2 strips of grey 24 long For eyes: 2 strips of black 1 long 2 strips of yellow 3 long 2 strips of black 3 long For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 1 long For wings: 2 strips of black 1 long

Claws: 2 strips of bright yellow long Horn Feathers (optional!): 2 strips of 1 - 3 grey paper (the longer the strip, the bigger the horn feathers!) slotted quilling tool glue needle tool (optional) tweezers (optional)

1. Follow the instructions for the large oval owl, but with the length of pieces indicated above. For the body you can glue in the 1 tight roll when you have approximately 6 of

paper strip left of the body roll. I put the flattened claws on edge for this design. The wings are shaped like crescents instead of curved teardrops, as they are so small.

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Here is a photo showing the size comparison between the large, medium, and small oval owls. I like using the small ones as earrings with the medium as a penda

Tutorial for Feather Owl For all of the feather owl designs I used narrow (1/16 or 1.5mm) width paper for the oval

base, feathers, wings, and tail. I used 1/8 (3mm) width paper for the eyes and beak so they stand out a bit from the feathers. You can choose to use the same or use any width(s) that

you prefer. Supplies for one MEDIUM feather owl for a pendant (double if you want two earrings) This owl measures approximately 1 (2.5cm) wide and 1 (3.2cm) tall For body: 4 strips of grey 24 long For eyes: 2 strips of black 3 long 2 strips of yellow 6 long 2 strips of black 6 long For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 3 long For wings: 2 strips of grey 3 long 2 strips of black 3 long

Feathers: 12 strips of grey 1 long (you may need a couple more or less) Tail: 3 strips of 1 black paper slotted quilling tool, glue, needle tool (optional), tweezers (optional)

1. For each body, glue together the 4 strips of 24 length paper. Rip of a 1 length from the end. Roll this into a tight roll with an empty middle. Roll the loooong strip into a large flat tight roll. When you have about 9 left, glue on the small tight roll that you made with the 1 piece. Continue winding the leftover 12 around the whole roll and over the small tight roll (this is where you will put the jump ring in). Glue the end down when you come to

it and allow it to dry. Now you need to squish your circle into an oval shape. Make sure when you squeeze it into an oval that the hole for your jump ring is at a narrow end of your

oval. See beginning instructions for how to carefully make your oval shape.

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2. To make the eyes, glue together the three eye strips. Start with the shorter black strip and roll a tight roll. Glue the end in place. For the wings, glue together the grey and black pieces. Start rolling from the grey side. Allow your roll to expand into a loose coil and glue

it closed. Pinch into a leaf shape. For the beak, roll the strip into a loose coil and glue. Pinch into a leaf shape. For the feathers, roll each strip, allow to expand, and glue closed.

Pinch into little leaf shapes. 3. For the tail, fold each strip in half, but dont pinch the middle where you folded it. Allow it to be open and curved. Glue the ends together. When you have the three curved folded

pieces, glue them together with the middle one sticking down further than the sides. When this has dried, trim the long end.

4. Assemble your owl by dipping your pieces into glue and then placing onto your oval. I find it easier to use tweezers for this step! Adjust as necessary. I place the beak so that the

end of it covers up the hole in the middle of the body. Then I place the eyes, the wing feathers, then the body feathers and tail.

Supplies for one SMALL feather owl for a pendant (double if you want two earrings) This owl measures approximately 7/8 (2.3cm) wide including wings and 7/8 (2.3cm) tall

For body: 2 strips of grey 24 long For eyes: 2 strips of black 1 long 2 strips of yellow 3 long 2 strips of black 3 long For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 1 long

For wings: 2 strips of grey 1 long 2 strips of black 1 long Feathers: 12 strips of grey long (you may need a couple more or less) Tail: 3 strips of black paper slotted quilling tool, glue,(optional) needle tool, tweezers

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1. Follow the instructions for the large oval owl, but with the length of pieces indicated above. For the body you can glue in the 1 tight roll when you have approximately 6 of

paper strip left of the body roll.

Here is a photo comparison of the side medium and size small. You could also make a large size one using the same body, eye, and beak paper measurements as for the large oval owl.

Tutorial for Double Owl For all of the double owl designs I used narrow (1/16 or 1.5mm) width paper for the body, head, and feathers. I used 1/8 (3mm) width paper for the eyes and beak so they stand out a bit from the feathers. You can choose to use the same or use any width(s) that you prefer.

Supplies for one LARGE double owl for a pendant (double if you want two earrings) This owl measures approximately 1 (2.5cm) wide and 1 (4.4cm) tall For body: 6 strips of grey 24 long For head: 3-4 strips of grey 24 long (if your paper is thicker you may want to use 3 strips instead of 4 for the head. I used 4 strips for this particular one. For eyes: 2 strips of black 3 long 2 strips of yellow 6 long 2 strips of black 6 long

For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 1 - 3 long (here I used 1 ) For feathers: 21 strips of grey 1 long (you may need a couple more or less) slotted quilling tool, glue (optional)needle tool, tweezers

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1. For each head, glue together the 3-4 strips of 24 length paper. Rip of a 1 length from the end. Roll this into a tight roll with an empty middle. Roll the loooong strip into a large flat tight roll. When you have about 9 left, glue on the small tight roll that you made with the 1 piece. Continue winding the leftover 12 around the whole roll and over the small tight roll (this is where you will put the jump ring in). Glue the end down when you come to it and allow it to dry. Leave this as a circle, do not squish into an oval!! For the body, glue together the 6 strips and roll them into a large tight roll. Squeeze it into an oval shape. The

body does NOT have the 1 tight roll glued into it as the head does. See beginning instructions for how to carefully make your oval shape.

2. To make the eyes, glue together the three eye strips. Start with the shorter black strip and roll a tight roll. Glue the end in place. For the beak, roll the strip into a loose coil and

glue. Pinch into a leaf shape. For the feathers, roll each strip into a small tight roll. Squish them flat.

3. See all of your pieces below. To start assembling, glue the head onto the body. It is up to you how far down the body you want to glue the head. I leave it so that you can still see the

center hole of the body and a little space above it, as you can see in the second photo:

4. To assemble, I use a tweezers to dip each piece into glue before putting it on. I put on the nose so that the top of the nose is covering the hole in the center of the head. I put the eyes a bit further apart and further down on this design since there is more space with it having a

separate head and body. To put on the feathers, I first put a middle one in the top row, covering that hole in the middle of the body oval. Then I put three feathers evenly on each

side, making 7 feathers in the top row. I try to stagger them; putting 6 in the next row between each of the top ones, then five, and lastly I can usually fit in 3 in the last row. You can put them closer together and use more, or put them further apart and use fewer. It is

really up to you what look you are going for.

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Supplies for one MEDIUM double owl for a pendant (double if you want two earrings) This owl measures approximately (1.9cm) wide and 1 (3cm) tall

For body: 4 strips of grey 24 long For head: 2 strips of grey 24 long For eyes: 2 strips of black 1 long 2 strips of yellow 3 long 2 strips of black 3 long

For beak: 1 strips of bright yellow 1 long For feathers: 14 strips of grey 1 long (you may need a couple more or less) slotted quilling tool, glue (optional) needle tool , tweezers

1. Follow the instructions for the large double owl, but with the length of pieces indicated above. I put the feathers closer together for this size, and started the top row with 5

feathers. You can use as many or as few feathers as youd like.

Here is a photo showing a size comparison between the large and medium size double owls. The medium would work well for earrings and the large as a matching pendant.

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Here are a couple of ideas for changing this design. To add ears, roll a loose circle with a 1 length piece of paper. Use the same width as you did for your background here I used narrow. Pinch the circles into triangle shapes and glue to the head. You may need to use

pins to position the ears so they are against the head as you want them to be while they dry. In the second photo below you see a white snowy owl! For this one the body feathers are different. I made closed loose circles instead of the solid ones. Then I pinched each one

into a tight crescent shape for the feathers. Its easiest to use something like the tip of your slotted tool to curve the shape around, as it is quite tiny.

Tutorial for Sealing Your Paper Quilled Jewelry

Supplies:

Small paintbrush Tweezers

Tissue A paper sealant/top coat/varnish

A plastic surface for drying

1. First of all, you do not have to put any sort of sealant or waterproof coating on your paper quilled jewelry. If you prefer to have yours as environmentally friendly as possible and you dont mind being very careful with them, go ahead and wear them as is. If, however, you

want them to last as long as possible (as long as any jewelry if you handle them as carefully as fine jewelry) then I suggest putting a sealant on them.

2. You may use almost any sealant/top coat that you can find at the craft store. Some will even say that they are specifically made for paper. Some will be liquid, and others will be

thicker. Ive used several types and havent had any problems with any of them. One of my current favorites is PPA (perfect paper adhesive) since it can be used as both a glue AND a sealant. Its my favorite glue for paper quilling! I also use crystal coat glaze (from Quilled

Creations) when I want a nice shiny finish. Another favorite is a liquid matte sealer, which I will show more details about here.

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3. Ive tried many methods of applying sealant and the easiest Ive found is to use a small short paintbrush to apply the sealant. Paint a thin layer on one side and let it dry. Turn it

over and paint the second side and let it dry again. Lastly paint the edges and dab the paintbrush into all the crevices to make sure the whole thing is coated.

The reason you need to wait until its dry between layers is so that the sealant doesnt cause

the coils in the shapes to come open. Not all sealants will have that effect, but most will since they are water based. .In the second photo youll notice the whiteness of the sealant (it is PPA). As its drying it is soaked into the paper and it dries to a totally clear and matte

finish. PPA also comes in a shiny version, but I usually use the matte.

These are the basic directions for most quilled jewelry. However, with the jewelry in this particular tutorial there are no open coils. Therefore it is not necessary to wait until one

side is dry to do the other side. However, you dont want it to stick to another surface, so its still best to wait. Or you can hang it on the earwire right away and do all sides and hang

it to dry.

4. Once the paper has been completely sealed I usually go ahead and put on the earring hooks and/or jumprings and hang them up. I then put on one more coat of sealant/top

coat. I usually use a shiny one for this last layer such as Crystal Coat Glaze, but if I want a matte look Ill just use another layer of the PPA or liquid matte sealant. The reason I hang

them on their hooks before this last layer is so that I can do all sides at once and dont have to do only one side at a time.

5. If you are using a sealant that is liquid, it is very easy to use with these solid designs. Youll need a small container to pour in some of the sealant, a tissue to dab the pieces, tweezers to pick the pieces out of the sealant, and a plastic surface to lay the pieces on to dry. First

place the pieces into the sealant as shown in the photo on the right:

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6. Use the tweezers to either flip the pieces over in the sealant or push them down so the sealant covers them. They will float back up, but as long as both sides have been in contact with the sealant it is fine. You may see air bubbles like in the second photo below. That is okay. Let the pieces stay in the sealant for a couple seconds, but not long enough for the

colors to start to run (this only happens with some colors).

7. Pick the pieces out of the sealant with the tweezers and lay them on the tissue. Let them sit for a few seconds. Then fold the tissue (or use another tissue) to place on top of the pieces as seen in the last photo here and press gently. This will get rid of excess sealant.

8. Once the pieces have been dabbed off you may pick them up and place them onto your plastic surface to dry. Once they have completely dried it is time to do the next layer. For

this layer you may use the same liquid sealant or you can use another sealant or topcoat of your choice. When I want a nice shiny finish I will use Crystal Coat Glaze or PPA glossy for this last coat. When I want just a slightly shiny, but still matte surface I will use the liquid

matte sealant. If I want a truly matte look I will use the PPA matte for the last coat. Whichever one you decide to use, apply it with a small brush to one side. Let it completely

dry so it will have a nice smooth surface. Flip it over and do the same to the other side. You may also attach them to earwires, paint both sides with sealant, and let them hang to dry.

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Here I am painting on a coat of liquid matte sealant to the large oval owl. Even though the wings and beak are open coils, they are glued down solidly to the base, so you dont have to

be careful about applying the sealant to them. They will not uncoil.

9. You can use these owls for hairclips, too! You do not have to insert the tiny roll into the outer edge of the base for these. You will need some blank hairclips. The kind I find work

best are the metal ones as shown, with a plastic pad that you can glue the quilling piece to. Do NOT use sealant on the quilled piece before adhering to the clip or it will tend to fall off. Use a hot glue gun to attach the paper circle to the plastic pad. Then turn it over and dip into your liquid sealant (or paint a thicker sealant on it). When one layer has dried, do a

second layer and youre finished! Here is a photo of the hairclips with some quilled circles on them.

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Put your Quilled Pieces to Use! 1. Jewelry - If you would like to make a pendant, put on a large jumpring. If youd like to

make earrings youll need two earwires and four jumprings. I like to use two very small (3-4mm) and two larger (5-6mm). Use the larger jumpring to hook your quilled piece. Use the smaller jumpring to attach the larger ring to the earwire. And there you go! If you are using a piece for a pendant I would suggest adding an extra layer of sealant, as pendants get more

handling than earrings do.

2. Hairclips You can use any quilled pieces on hairclips as well as for earrings and pendants. The most secure way I have found to attach them to hairclips is to use the metal hairclips

that have plastic pads at the end for gluing. Use a hot glue gun to glue the quilled piece to the plastic pad. Do this BEFORE using sealant so that it sticks better to the hot glue. Once it

has dried, apply the sealant as usual. I usually add an extra layer of sealant just to make sure they are extra sturdy, as hairclips get more handling than earrings do.

3. Magnets - Any quilled pieces can also be used on magnets. Use a strong glue to adhere your finished pieces to magnets. If you are using a glue such as epoxy resin, make sure that

you fully seal your piece before gluing it. Epoxy resin easily soaks into the paper and will discolor is, making it quite dark. This also weakens the glue bond since most of the glue has

soaked into the paper. So use several layers of sealant on your pieces first, and then glue onto the magnets with epoxy resin. If you are using other glues then you can choose

whether to use sealant or not, and whether to put the sealant on before or after gluing the magnet onto the back.




About the Author

Honey Moser

My name is Honey (yep, its my real name!) and I am the creator and

designer behind Honeys Quilling.

I grew up in rural Wisconsin, the second eldest of 7 children. Living out in the

country, we had plenty of time on our hands, so we were always crafting!

When I was 10 years old I checked a book out of the library about paper

quilling, and Ive been hooked ever since! One of the first projects I made as

a child was a heart pendant. Little did I know that twenty years later Id

have my own online shop selling paper quilled jewelry.

I now live in tropical Malaysia with my husband & two young daughters. I

hope to pass along the love of crafting to them as they see me create almost

every day. I have a passion for making paper quilled jewelry; I think of new

designs each night while I fall asleep. I also love creating tutorials so others

can learn to make their own awesome and eco friendly jewelry.

You can find me at:

Etsy shop: http://HoneysHive.etsy.com

Zibbet shop: http://HoneysQuilling.zibbet.com

Crafting blog: http://HoneysQuilling.com

Facebook: http://facebook.com/HoneysQuilling

Twitter: http://twitter.com/HoneysQuilling


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Rebecca Earrings


Materials & Tools

Chaton Swarovski 8mm

Superduo beads in 2 different colors - SD(a) SD(b)

Bicone Swarovski 4mm - Bic4

Bicone Swarovski 3mm - Bic3

Fire polished beads 4mm - FP4

Seed beads 11/0 in 2 different colors - R11(a) R11(b)

Seed beads 15/0 - R15

Beading thread size D

Needle size 12

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Rebecca Earrings


Step 1 A) String 16 R15 and pass back through all beads again,

weaving in the opposite direction, to form a circle. At this

point proceed inside the circle until the thread is fixed,

then exit from 1 R15.

B) Work a round of R15 in circular peyote stitch. Pick up 1

R15, skip next R15 and pass through following R15 to add

a total of 8 R15. At the end, step up through 1st R15

placed.

C) Now work three rounds of R11(a) in circular peyote stitch. See

pictures below and on next page [Fig. A/B/C].

Fig. C - Third Round Fig. B - Second Round Fig. A - First Round

D) Keep on working in circular peyote stitch. Pick

up 1 Bic4 and go through next R11(a) in the circle.

E) Pick up 1R11(b) and stitch through next R11(a).

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Rebecca Earrings


E1) Repeat D and E to complete the round, adding

a total of 4 Bic4 and 4 R11(b), then exit from 1st

Bicone placed.

F1) Repeat F three more times to complete the

round, then exit from 1st R15 added.

G) Place the Chaton in the center of the bezel [Fig. D] and repeat the

thread path inside all beads of last round pulling the thread gradually until

the cabochon is fixed, exiting from a central R11(b) [Fig. E]. At this point go

backwards passing through next R11(a) set before the Bicone [Fig. F].

Fig. D Fig. E Fig. F

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Rebecca Earrings


Step 2

A) Pick up 1 SD(b) and pass through next

SD(a).

B) String one more SD(b) and stitch through

following SD(a).

C) Pick up 2 R11(a) and go

through next central R11(b). D) String 1 R11(a)/1 R15/1 R11(a) and

proceed through all following 3 R11(b) of

next Unit.

E) String 1 R11(a)/1 R15/1 R11(a)

and weave through next central

R11(b).

F) Pick up 2 R11(a) and stitch through

the top hole of following SD(a).

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Rebecca Earrings


G) Repeat A/B/C/D/E/F on the other side of

the earring, then exit from the top hole of 1st

SD(b) placed.

Step 4

A) String 1 R15/1 Bic3/1 R15 and pass

through the top hole of next SD(b).

B) Pick up 1 R15/1 Bic3/1 R15 and stitch

through following R11(a).

C) String 3 R11(b), skip next 1 R11(a)/1

R11(b) and pass directly through 9

beads.

D) Pick up 1 R15/1 Bic3, skip next

R11(a) and proceed directly through

next 2nd R11(a).

E) Pick up 3 R11(b) and pass through the top

hole of following SD(b).

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Rebecca Earrings


F) String 1 FP4 and go through next SD(b).

G) Complete the other side of the earrings

following the same steps in the reverse order,

then exit from 1st R15 added on A, before a

Bic3.

Step 5

A) String 3 R11(b) and pass through next R15.

B) Pick up 3 R15 and proceed through beads

until you reach following 3rd R11(b) set on the

other side of the earring. See picture with the

thread path on next page.

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Rebecca Earrings


Step 5 thread path I

C) String 3 R15 and stitch

through following FP4.

D) Pick up 3 more R15 and proceed through

beads until you reach the R15 set after a Bic3

on the upp

Documents

Tap & Hold the screen to show the top bar - Bracelet makingdiybeadingclub.com/wp-content/uploads/Tutorials/... · Step 5 Step 6 Step 7 Step 8 ... inaccurate pattern. ... Wigjig Centaur