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TEXTURE
PERSONAL CONNECTION:IMPROVE YOURSELF
See the wide range of hair texture options and the methods for how each of them can be achieved
INDUSTRY CONNECTION:BECOME A PROFESSIONAL
Expand your professional skills to create popular and original texture designs
CLIENT CONNECTION:SERVE THE GUEST
Transform your clients’ hair texture to give them the volume, design options and long-lasting results they want
CONNECTING THEORY TO REAL-WORLD PRACTICEUNDERSTANDING THE THEORY, TECHNIQUES AND PROCEDURES OF CHEMICAL TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION WILL HELP YOU:
11
12.1 PERMING THEORYHISTORY OF PERMINGPHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMINGCHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMINGPERM ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETYPERM SERVICE ESSENTIALSPERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEWPERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
12.2 RELAXING THEORYHISTORY OF RELAXINGBASIC RELAXING THEORYADVANCED RELAXING THEORYRELAXER ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETYRELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALSPRODUCT OVERVIEWRELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEWRELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
317COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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TEXTURE SERVICES THAT GIVE CLIENTS A VARIETY OF
LONG-LASTING STRAIGHT, WAVY AND CURLY LOOKS ARE
IN DEMAND IN THE SALON
WHATYOUNEEDTOKNOW: The theory, techniques and procedures for perming
The theory, techniques and procedures for relaxing
TEXTURE318
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORYPAGES 413-415
3322
Adds volume, texture and movement to hair
Highly valued service; significant revenue generator
PERMING EFFECTS
PEOPLE TO KNOW
CHARLES NESSLER
EVANS & MCDONOUGH
ARNOLD WILLATT
HISTORY OF PERMING POPULAR TECHNIQUE SPECIALIZED TREATMENT
TodayConstantly Evolving
1970Heat waves: Acid/Endothermic and Exothermic Cold waves; no heat
1938Cold waves; no heat
1931Overnight wave; no electricity; chemical reaction
1926Croquignole; preheat method; ends to scalp
1905Spiral method; heat machine; scalp to ends
Ancient EgyptWrapped hair on sticks, applied mud, baked in sun
THIOGLYCOLIC ACID ALKALINE
COLD WAVES
•
•
•
•
ACID/ENDOTHERMIC EXOTHERMIC
HEAT WAVES
•
•
•
•
319COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
3322
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
DISTRIBUTE AND SECTION
WRAP
TWO TYPES OF SPIRAL
PERM TOOLS
PAGES 415-417
Come in various lengths, diameters and shapes
Most common perm tool is a rod
Distribute:
Section:
OVERLAP (CROQUIGNOLE) SPIRAL
ENDS-TO-BASE BASE-TO-ENDS
•
•
•
•
•
•
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
Large Diameter:
Medium Diameter:
Small Diameter:
As perm texture is added, resulting hair length will have the
of reduced length
3322
PERM TOOLS (CONT’D)
PERM TOOL SIZES
LENGTH REDUCTION
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
PAGES 417-420
BOOKEND DOUBLE-PAPER (DOUBLE-FLAT) SINGLE-PAPER CUSHION
STRAIGHT PERM RODS:
CONCAVE PERM RODS:
SOFT RODS:
321COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORYPAGES 420-422
3322
Combination of two related aspects of perming
1. Size of base in relation to of tool
2. Position of tool in relation to the
Refers to:
Also called:
1. 2. 3.
Determined by:
Tool position refers to placement of a wrapped perm tool in relation
to its
BASE CONTROL
BASE
3 BASE SHAPES
BASE SIZE
TOOL POSITION
FOUR BASIC TOOL POSITIONS
ALERT!When using multiple end papers, be sure to and
the hair thoroughly since the end papers hold more moisture than a single end paper.
ON-BASE1
HALF-OFF BASE2
IMPORTANTToo much hair on the perm tool will prevent the solution from penetrating properly or cause the tool bands to cut into or crease the hair
1X BASE 1½X BASE 2X BASE
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
3322
FOUR BASIC TOOL POSITIONS (CONT’D)
PERM PATTERNS Refer to the way perm tools are arranged around the client’s head
PAGES 422-423
3
4
UNDERDIRECTED
OFF BASE
PERM PATTERNSRECTANGLE OR 9-BLOCK
CONTOUR
ONE-TWOBRICKLAY
SPIRALBRICKLAY
ALTERNATING OBLONG
323COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
Used to achieve a variety of customized texture results
Base Perming: Adds texture only at the of the hair strand;
adds and support but not end curl
Away From the Base Perming: Adds anywhere along the
strand except at the base
Piggyback Perming: Combines base perming and
from the perming
PAGES 424-425
3322
ADVANCED PERM
TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
STRAND VARIATIONS
TYPES OF BASE VARIATIONS
ALERT!Always read and follow manufacturer’s before you
begin wrapping. A special shampoo or a pre-wrap solution designed to be applied
you wrap the hair may be included in the perm you
have selected. Some manufacturers may recommend applying the perm solution
to prior to wrapping.
Which diameter of perm tool (small, medium or large) do you think is more
popular in today’s market and why? Discuss your answer with a friend.
COMPRESSION BASES WOVEN BASES (ZIGZAG BASES)
•
•
•
•
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
Chemical process that transforms the hair into lasting perm texture
Fill in the basic steps of the chemical phase
Processing
3322
TYPES OF ADVANCED PERM PATTERNS
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
BASIC STEPS OF
THE CHEMICAL PHASE
PROCESSING
PAGES 426-427
Neutralizing
To permanently change the hair from to
, strong disulfide bonds found in the cortex of the protein
chains are and
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
ZONAL PATTERNS (PARTIAL PERMS)
FREEFORM PATTERNS
•
•
•
•
ERGONOMIC TIPS FOR PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
• When wrapping the hair, stand directly behind the section to be wrapped, not to one side or the other.
• Be sure the perm tools, end papers and spray bottle are within easy reach of your free hand. You will find it difficult to perform a smooth and even wrap if you need to shift when reaching for supplies.
• Do not bend over, stoop or raise your shoulders uncomfortably while wrapping.
325COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORYPAGES 427-428
3322
Alkaline (cold) perms: The perm solution chemically breaks (or reduces) the
strong while the hair is wrapped
on the perm tools
Acid (heat) waves: , and
break the disulfide bonds
With both types of perm solutions the processing action softens the
structure and allows the disulfide bonds to shift,
assuming the of the tool
Self-Timing:
Positive Test Curl:
Getting the desired texture results depends on leaving the
on the hair for the correct amount of time
Stops the processing action and removes all
before neutralizing
Use gentle to avoid disturbing the
hair on the perm tools
Removes before neutralizing
DISULFIDE BOND (S-S BOND)
ALKALINE WAVES
ACID WAVES
APPLYING PERM SOLUTION
TIMING AND TESTING
RINSING
BLOTTING
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
3322
Final chemical step in the perm process
Reforms the
Reduces the
Rehardens the
Main ingredient in most neutralizers:
pH range:
1st method for rinsing the neutralizer:
2nd method for rinsing neutralizer:
Two main categories of perms used in salons are alkaline (cold) perms and acid
(heat) perms
DIFFERENCES
NEUTRALIZING
RINSING AND REMOVING
PERM TOOLS
CATEGORIES OF
PERM SOLUTIONS
PAGES 428-430
ALERT!Always read manufacturers’ directions to achieve the best results from their
perm products.
ALKALINE PERMS ACID PERMS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
327COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
3322
Analyzing the porosity, elasticity, texture and hair density will help you:
• Choose the right base size and
• Select proper
• Manage processing
Tenacity refers to the or with which
a product can penetrate the hair cuticle
DRAPING PROCEDURE FOR CHEMICAL SERVICESNumber in correct order:
Place towel around client’s neck; fasten shampoo cape over towel
Turn client’s collar under
Check that cape has not fallen inside back of chair
Ask client to remove neck jewelry, earrings and eyeglasses
Fold edge of towel down over cape; drape second towel over shampoo
cape and fasten
Look for abnormalities on the scalp, such as:
• •
• •
Never apply chemicals over any abnormal scalp condition
HAIR ANALYSIS
TENACITY
DRAPING FOR
CHEMICAL SERVICES
SCALP ANALYSIS
PAGES 431-435
POROSITY ELASTICITY TEXTURE DENSITY
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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY
3322
Help determine how a client’s hair will react to a perm; take time to test on
, , or hair
colored with
PRELIMINARY TEST CURL PROCEDURENumber in correct order:
Set timer and process according to manufacturer’s directions
Shampoo hair once and gently towel-dry
Apply protective cream to surrounding area and cover with plastic
Wrap one perm tool in concealed area that represents overall condition
of hair
Wrap coil of cotton around perm tool to protect surrounding hair
from chemicals
Apply perm solution to wrapped hair; keep chemicals away from
unwrapped hair
Check the test curl at least every five minutes
Hair is ready when
automatically forms a strong, well-defined “S” shape or pattern
If metallic salts are suspected: perform a prior to
perm service
Remove 20 strands of hair, immerse in 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of
ammonia in glass bowl for minutes
PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS
TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS
PAGE 436
ALERT!Do not perm until the metallic product has been cut out of hair.
HAIR REACTION TYPE OF SALT RESPONSE
Lightens slightly
Lightens quickly
No reaction in 30 min
Solution boils/odor/ hair pulls apart
329COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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12.2 RELAXINGTHEORY
3322
To change the hair from to
Loosening or of the hair’s existing texture
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
FOUR BASIC RELAXER SERVICES
TWO MAJOR CATEGORIESTYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS
SODIUM HYDROXIDE (SODIUM)
AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE (THIO)
• Also known as:
• Gentler than base relaxers;
pH of 11.5 to 14
• Used on:
• Also known as:
• Strengths of mild, regular and
super; pH of 8.5 to 9.5
• Used on:
CURL DIFFUSION (CHEMICAL BLOW-OUT)1
VIRGIN RELAXER2
3 RETOUCH RELAXER
4 ZONAL RELAXER
ALERT!Do not apply sodium hydroxide relaxer to extremely hair that
has been colored with permanent hair color or lightened hair (decolorized, bleached); do
not apply sodium hydroxide to hair that has been permed or is going to be permed with
. Multiple services performed over the
hair reduce the number of bonds in the hair, which can cause severe breakage.
PAGES 441-444
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PAGES 447-454
Relaxing the hair involves both and
steps
Sectioning of hair (for organization and )
Applying product (with brush)
Before applying relaxer product, protect hairline and ears with base cream (basing)
Smoothing or
Timing and
Rinsing and
Neutralizing (Use acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo or to
reharden (lock) hair into new, straighter shape)
Steps in creating new relaxed curl pattern:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Two advanced services: thermal reconditioning and curl reformation
Also known as:
Main Steps for Thermal Reconditioning are:
1. Relax the hair with an
-based product
2. Straighten the hair using a
3. the hair with a designated product
THE PHASES OF
A RELAXER SERVICE
CHEMICAL PHASE
PHYSICAL PHASE
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
3322
12.2 RELAXINGTHEORY
How is the relaxer process different from the perm process? Why? Discuss your
answer with a classmate.
Thermal reconditioning presents a higher level of difficulty than other relaxer services.
331COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
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PAGES 454-461
Designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair; hair is relaxed and
then permed to create new curl pattern
Curl reformation is also known as:
Draping protects the client’s clothing and helps prevent skin irritations or burns
possibly caused by the relaxer chemicals.
CURL REFORMATION
DRAPING FOR
CHEMICAL SERVICES
PRELIMINARY STRAND TESTING
TESTING FOR METALLIC SALTS
12.2 RELAXINGTHEORY
REDUCE: reduce existing by applying
REFORM: produce new curl pattern around
REBOND: neutralize (fix) the chemical bonds and lock in new
ALERT!Avoid leaving a client unattended while the hair is processing.
STRAND TEST PROCEDURE SODIUM HYDROXIDE RELAXER SERVICE STRAND TEST PROCEDURE CURL REFORMATION
• Partoffsmallsectioninmostresistantarea
• Applychemicalrelaxer
• Followmanufacturer’stimingguide
• Smooththehair
• Rinse,useneutralizingshampooand -dry
• Testanotherareausing relaxer if strands did not relax enough
• Shampooandtowel-dryhair
• Applybasecreamonscalpandhairline
• Follow directions
• Wrapcottonaroundthestrandto
• Applychemicalrearranger,smooth,rinse and
• Applycurlboosterandwrapstrandonpermtool
• Checkhair
• Unfastenpermtool1½to2turnsofrodtocheck test
• Process,rinseand
• Evaluateanddocument
MAIN STEPS FOR
CURL REFORMATION
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SKILLS BOOSTERSoon you will be putting the fundamentals just learned into action by practicing the related procedures located in the
Designer’s Approach program. As you review the ideas presented in this chapter consider the following points as a
way of boosting your skills.
TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed
next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.
Locate three magazine
photos, one with small, one
with medium and one with
large curl sizes. Compare with
a partner the form, length,
color and texture of the curls.
Compare directions from
two different perm or relaxer
manufacturers and list similar
and different instructions.
Create a promotion
spotlighting perms or
relaxers as a service in
the salon.
1. Practice popular procedures first: Which perm pattern do you think you will perform most often in the salon?
2. Recognize where you need practice: Which step of the perm procedure do you feel will require more of your practice time?
3. Visualize success: Describe a client you know that might request a relaxer service.
4. Practice dealing with clients personally: Which part of the relaxer service do you think might cause clients to be concerned or hesitant?
5. Set a goal for excellence: How many perms do you think you will need to perform in order to achieve salon-ready timing and quality results? How many relaxers?
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THE CHALLENGENow it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box
that follows to check yourself.
1. Perming adds which three elements to the hair? ,
and .
2. The two major phases of perming are the physical phase and the phase.
3. The phase of perming that involves wrapping the hair around the desired tool is the phase.
4. Perm tools come in various lengths, diameters and .
5. TRUE FALSE The chemical phase of perming involves applying the perm solution, rinsing it from the hair, then applying
the neutralizer and rinsing it from the hair.
6. The most common ingredient found in products that completely straighten the
hair is .
7. Prior to a chemical service, it is important to analyze the client’s hair to determine the porosity, elasticity
and .
8. TRUE FALSE Never apply a thio relaxer over hair that has been relaxed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer or vice versa,
since these two chemicals are not compatible and severe damage or breakage can occur.
9. A chemical service designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair is known as
curl .
10. In a curl reformation procedure, the natural curl is reduced by applying a product known as a rearranger. The main
ingredient found in a rearranger is .
TEXTURE334
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MEMORYBOXLook up each answer on the corresponding page in the Cosmetology Fundamentals coursebook. Check “GOT IT” for all correct answers and “NOT YET” for all incorrect responses. Record all of your correct responses in the “I KNOW” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I NEED TO STUDY” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this study guide.
NOT YET I NEED TO STUDYI KNOWGOT IT
KNOW CHART
PAGE 413
PAGE 415
PAGE 415
PAGE 417
PAGE 426
PAGE 443
PAGE 445
PAGE 459, 463
PAGE 454
PAGE 455
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
SHOW YOU KNOW Identify which type of tool and wrapping pattern was used for the following images.
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KNOW What are the two basic
techniques for wrapping hair
around a perm tool?
COMPREHENDExplain the purpose of an end
paper in the perming process.
APPLY Fill in the basic steps
involved in the chemical
process of perming.
The basic steps involved in the chemical phase of perming are:
1. Applying perm solution
2.
3.
4.
5. Applying neutralizer
6.
7. Removing perm tools
ANALYZE Compare the pH of an alkaline
perm to the pH of an acid perm.
SYNTHESIZE Summarize why it is important
to analyze the porosity,
elasticity, texture and density
of the client’s hair prior to
performing a perm service.
EVALUATE In your own words please state
the cause for extreme breakage
that may occur shortly after
relaxer services. How would you
avoid this problem?
KNOWLEDGE GRIDStart at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your
understanding of Chapter 12, Texture. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build
self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.
TEXTURE336
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All designs will be judged for:
PLAN/SKETCH
DEMONSTRATION
EXPLANATION TOTAL POINTS
A CLASS ACTNow that you have completed your work in the study of Texture, it’s time to demonstrate your creative talents.
Each member of the class will plan, sketch, demonstrate and explain a wrap pattern. You may create a new
directional pattern or use one from the chapter.
Remember: Before starting the wrap on a mannequin you need to sketch the wrapping pattern, list key features to
be explained and name your creation!
KEY FEATURES
DESIGN NAME
POINTS
SKETCH
1 2 4 6 93 5 87 10
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BRAIN CONDITIONERMultiple choice. Circle the correct answer.
1. Which of the following wrapping techniques requires the hair to revolve around the perm tool at least 2½ times to create a complete curl pattern? a. overlap b. spiral c. cushion d. bookend
2. Perm rods that produce curls or waves that are uniform throughout the hair strands are: a. concave b. straight c. spiral d. smaller in the center
3. With concave rods the hair on both ends travels farther than the hair in the center to make one complete turn around the rod, creating a: a. larger, looser curl in the center b. narrow curl throughout the strands c. consistent curl throughout the strands d. wider and more spiraling pattern on the ends
4. Which type of perm tools produce small firm curls? a. small diameter b. large diameter c. long with large diameters d. short with large diameters
5. When a smaller perm tool is used, the length reduction is: a. less b. greater c. none d. smaller
6. The most common end paper technique used to avoid bunching at the ends is the: a. spiral b. cushion c. bookend d. double-paper (double-flat)
7. Perming a one-diameter base size is: a. equal to the diameter of the perm tool b. 2 times the size of the perm tool c. 3 times the size of the perm tool d. 4 times the size of the perm tool
8. A larger base size will produce what type of curl? a. longer b. tighter c. looser d. shorter
9. Too much hair on a perm tool can cause: a. frizziness b. dryness c. breakage d. an uneven curl result
10. To achieve maximum volume, which tool position should be used? a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base d. underdirected
11. The most common base control for perming is: a. half-off base b. on-base c. off-base d. underdirected
12. Which of the following tool positions results in no curl at the scalp? a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base d. underdirected
13. What structure must be permanently broken to change the hair from a straight to curly state? a. carbon b. eumelanin c. melanocytes d. disulfide bonds
14. Which procedure is used to remove all of the perm solution? a. rinsing b. reducing c. processing d. shampooing
15. Which important step ensures that excess water is not left in the strands before neutralizing? a. sectioning b. reducing c. blotting d. shampooing
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16. Which procedure reduces the swelling of the hair and rehardens the bonds into the new shifted position during a perm process? a. rinsing with cold water b. rinsing with hot water c. applying a neutralizer d. applying a processing agent
17. Alkaline perms carry a pH of: a. 4.5 - 5.5 b. 6.0 - 7.5 c. 8.0 - 9.5 d. 10 - 14
18. Which waving solution is not recommended for highly porous hair? a. acid b. heat c. alkaline d. endothermic
19. Hair should be wrapped without tension when using: a. alkaline perms b. exothermic acid waves c. acid waves without heat d. endothermic acid waves
20. Which of the following waving solutions has the shortest processing time? a. warm b. alkaline c. endothermic acid d. exothermic acid
21. Acid perms have a pH of: a. 4.9 - 5.2 b. 5.9 - 6.2 c. 6.9 - 7.2 d. 7.9 - 8.2
22. Which element do most acid perms use along with tension and waving solution to process hair? a. heat b. cold c. alkalinity d. drying
23. Wrapping with firm, even tension when using an acid perm produces which of the following effects? a. boosts penetration of waving solution b. decreases penetration of waving solution c. increases processing time d. creates uneven wave pattern
24. It is essential to completely rinse the acid perm solution before applying the: a. conditioner b. shampoo c. neutralizer d. relaxer
25. Which of the following statements is true about alkaline perms? a. need heat b. better for fragile or tinted hair c. strong curl pattern d. slower processing time
26. Which of the following benefits is associated with acid perms? a. strong curl pattern b. better for resistant hair c. faster processing time d. better for fragile or tinted hair
27. Which term refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals? a. elasticity b. porosity c. texture d. density
28. The hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original condition is called: a. elasticity b. porosity c. texture d. density
29. Smaller base sizes are required for hair with: a. thin density b. thick density c. good elasticity d. average porosity
30. Which of the following descriptions does NOT identify a category of texture? a. fine b. coarse c. porous d. medium
31. A salon professional should never use an ammonium thioglycolate product on a client’s hair if it has been previously treated with: a. conditioner b. neutralizer c. shampoo d. sodium hydroxide
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32. Which of the following statements about perming hair is true? a. do not perm hair that has been colored b. do not perm hair that is limp c. do not perm hair if there are scalp abrasions present d. do not perm short hair near hairline
33. Which of the following statements is TRUE about a preliminary test curl? a. avoid shampooing prior to testing b. helps determine how a client’s hair will react to a perm c. barrier cream is not necessary d. avoid testing hair that has been bleached
34. A technique used to loosen or relax tightly curled hair patterns by approximately 50% of their natural shape is called: a. virgin relaxer b. relaxer retouch c. zonal relaxer d. curl diffusion
35. Which of the following relaxer services is performed on selected zones of the head? a. virgin relaxer b. relaxer retouch c. zonal relaxer d. curl diffusion
36. Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally used on which type of hair? a. wavy b. straight c. nonresistant d. tightly curled
37. Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of: a. 5 to 6.5 b. 6.5 to 8 c. 8.5 to10 d. 11.5 to 14
38. Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to: a. soften b. shrink c. harden d. grow
39. Relaxer strengths for ammonium thioglycolate are categorized as all of the following EXCEPT: a. mild b. regular c. super d. heavy
40. A pull test is performed to check for which of the following conditions? a. porosity b. melanin c. elasticity d. texture
41. What is the optimum percent of natural curl pattern to remove when relaxing tightly curled hair? a. 50% b. 70% c. 85% d. 100%
42. Which of the following products protects the skin around the hairline and ears when applying a chemical relaxer product? a. protective cream b. neutralizer c. conditioner d. booster
43. The action of spreading the chemical relaxer through the hair with the spine or back of a comb is known as combing or: a. smoothing b. sectioning c. diffusion d. blotting
44. An advanced relaxer service that results in straight hair by using heat and a flat iron to restructure the bonds of the hair is known as: a. thermal reconditioning b. curl diffusion c. curl reformation d. virgin relaxer
45. The technique that sets thermal reconditioning apart from other relaxer services is the use of a: a. brush b. blow dryer c. flat iron d. curling iron
46. The three main steps performed for thermal reconditioning are relaxing, straightening and which of the following? a. neutralizing b. timing c. reforming d. conditioning
47. Ammonium thioglycolate is the main ingredient found in: a. rearrangers b. conditioners c. shampoos d. styling gels
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48. The three main steps of the curl reformation process are reduce, reform and which of the following? a. timing b. rebond c. retouch d. condition
49. When performing a curl reformation procedure, the perm tool diameter should be at least how many times larger than the diameter of the natural curl pattern? a. two b. three c. four d. five
50. Which of the following steps is NOT performed when offering a sodium hydroxide relaxer service? a. strand test b. periodic comb tests c. pre-shampoo client’s hair d. follow with neutralizing shampoo
FINAL REVIEW Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer.
On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.
1. PAGE 416
2. PAGE 417
3. PAGE 417
4. PAGE 418
5. PAGE 418
6. PAGE 419
7. PAGE 421
8. PAGE 421
9. PAGE 421
10. PAGE 422
11. PAGE 422
12. PAGE 422
13. PAGE 427
14. PAGE 428
15. PAGE 428
16. PAGE 428
17. PAGE 429
18. PAGE 429
19. PAGE 430
20. PAGE 430
21. PAGE 430
22. PAGE 430
23. PAGE 430
24. PAGE 430
25. PAGE 430
26. PAGE 430
27. PAGE 431
28. PAGE 431
29. PAGE 432
30. PAGE 432
31. PAGE 443
32. PAGE 434
33. PAGE 436
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Notes to Myself Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note
especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from
friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.
MY REFLECTIONS ABOUT TEXTURE
34. PAGE 442
35. PAGE 443
36. PAGE 442
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Things to Do
TEXTUREREVIEWHISTORY OF PERMING
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
PERM ESSENTIALS
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
PERM SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEW
PERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
• From sticks to machines to chemicals• Straight to curly is now safe, easy and effective
• First phase• Wrapping + Selected Tool + Desired Pattern and
Direction = Shape and Size of Curl
• Second phase• Processing + Neutralizing = Permanent Desired Curl
• Beyond the physical and chemical phase, a successful perm service depends on: • Organizing and selecting appropriate products, tools and equipment • Practicing infection control and safety precautions • Ensuring an exceptional guest experience:
Connect, Consult, Create and Complete
• Link to the voice of experience
PERMINGTHEORY
66343COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS
1 2 43 5 6 7
GROW WHAT YOU KNOWDiscuss what you learned about each of these topics.
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RELAXINGTHEORY
TEXTUREREVIEW(CONT’D)HISTORY OF RELAXING
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
RELAXER ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
RELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEW
RELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
• From lye to household ingredients to pressing • Curly to straight is now predictable and accessible
• Curl diffusion loosens tightly curled hair• Virgin relaxer straightens up to 85%• Retouch matches new growth to previously
relaxed hair
• Zonal used in nape and perimeter • To create new texture patterns: • Identify existing texture pattern • Determine desired texture pattern • Analyze hair competency • Select appropriate relaxer service • Choose the proper relaxer product and formula
• Thermal reconditioning straightens wavy to curly hair up to 100%
• Curl reformation relaxes tightly curled hair, to curly or wavy hair, by reducing the curl pattern and then perming to create a new curl pattern
• A successful relaxer service depends on: • Understanding the theory of basic and advanced relaxing • Organizing the proper tools, supplies and equipment • Practicing infection control and safety precautions • Ensuring an exceptional guest experience: Connect, Consult, Create and Complete
• Link to the voice of experience
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