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12 2 4 3 5 6 7 TEXTURE PERSONAL CONNECTION: IMPROVE YOURSELF See the wide range of hair texture options and the methods for how each of them can be achieved INDUSTRY CONNECTION: BECOME A PROFESSIONAL Expand your professional skills to create popular and original texture designs CLIENT CONNECTION: SERVE THE GUEST Transform your clients’ hair texture to give them the volume, design options and long-lasting results they want CONNECTING THEORY TO REAL-WORLD PRACTICE UNDERSTANDING THE THEORY, TECHNIQUES AND PROCEDURES OF CHEMICAL TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION WILL HELP YOU: 1 12.1 PERMING THEORY HISTORY OF PERMING PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING PERM ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY PERM SERVICE ESSENTIALS PERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEW PERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS 12.2 RELAXING THEORY HISTORY OF RELAXING BASIC RELAXING THEORY ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY RELAXER ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS PRODUCT OVERVIEW RELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEW RELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS 317 COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

TE TEXTURE - Thrust-jet Graphic Design and Multimedia · smartNOTES. TE. fi ˚ ˝ ˛ ˙ ˆ ˇ. 12.1 PERMING. THEORY. PAGES 413-415. 2. 3. Adds volume, texture and movement to hair

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1 2 43 5 6 7

TEXTURE

PERSONAL CONNECTION:IMPROVE YOURSELF

See the wide range of hair texture options and the methods for how each of them can be achieved

INDUSTRY CONNECTION:BECOME A PROFESSIONAL

Expand your professional skills to create popular and original texture designs

CLIENT CONNECTION:SERVE THE GUEST

Transform your clients’ hair texture to give them the volume, design options and long-lasting results they want

CONNECTING THEORY TO REAL-WORLD PRACTICEUNDERSTANDING THE THEORY, TECHNIQUES AND PROCEDURES OF CHEMICAL TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION WILL HELP YOU:

11

12.1 PERMING THEORYHISTORY OF PERMINGPHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMINGCHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMINGPERM ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETYPERM SERVICE ESSENTIALSPERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEWPERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

12.2 RELAXING THEORYHISTORY OF RELAXINGBASIC RELAXING THEORYADVANCED RELAXING THEORYRELAXER ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETYRELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALSPRODUCT OVERVIEWRELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEWRELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

317COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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TEXTURE SERVICES THAT GIVE CLIENTS A VARIETY OF

LONG-LASTING STRAIGHT, WAVY AND CURLY LOOKS ARE

IN DEMAND IN THE SALON

WHATYOUNEEDTOKNOW: The theory, techniques and procedures for perming

The theory, techniques and procedures for relaxing

TEXTURE318

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORYPAGES 413-415

3322

Adds volume, texture and movement to hair

Highly valued service; significant revenue generator

PERMING EFFECTS

PEOPLE TO KNOW

CHARLES NESSLER

EVANS & MCDONOUGH

ARNOLD WILLATT

HISTORY OF PERMING POPULAR TECHNIQUE SPECIALIZED TREATMENT

TodayConstantly Evolving

1970Heat waves: Acid/Endothermic and Exothermic Cold waves; no heat

1938Cold waves; no heat

1931Overnight wave; no electricity; chemical reaction

1926Croquignole; preheat method; ends to scalp

1905Spiral method; heat machine; scalp to ends

Ancient EgyptWrapped hair on sticks, applied mud, baked in sun

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID ALKALINE

COLD WAVES

ACID/ENDOTHERMIC EXOTHERMIC

HEAT WAVES

319COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

3322

PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING

DISTRIBUTE AND SECTION

WRAP

TWO TYPES OF SPIRAL

PERM TOOLS

PAGES 415-417

Come in various lengths, diameters and shapes

Most common perm tool is a rod

Distribute:

Section:

OVERLAP (CROQUIGNOLE) SPIRAL

ENDS-TO-BASE BASE-TO-ENDS

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

Large Diameter:

Medium Diameter:

Small Diameter:

As perm texture is added, resulting hair length will have the

of reduced length

3322

PERM TOOLS (CONT’D)

PERM TOOL SIZES

LENGTH REDUCTION

END PAPER TECHNIQUES

PAGES 417-420

BOOKEND DOUBLE-PAPER (DOUBLE-FLAT) SINGLE-PAPER CUSHION

STRAIGHT PERM RODS:

CONCAVE PERM RODS:

SOFT RODS:

321COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORYPAGES 420-422

3322

Combination of two related aspects of perming

1. Size of base in relation to of tool

2. Position of tool in relation to the

Refers to:

Also called:

1. 2. 3.

Determined by:

Tool position refers to placement of a wrapped perm tool in relation

to its

BASE CONTROL

BASE

3 BASE SHAPES

BASE SIZE

TOOL POSITION

FOUR BASIC TOOL POSITIONS

ALERT!When using multiple end papers, be sure to and

the hair thoroughly since the end papers hold more moisture than a single end paper.

ON-BASE1

HALF-OFF BASE2

IMPORTANTToo much hair on the perm tool will prevent the solution from penetrating properly or cause the tool bands to cut into or crease the hair

1X BASE 1½X BASE 2X BASE

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

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FOUR BASIC TOOL POSITIONS (CONT’D)

PERM PATTERNS Refer to the way perm tools are arranged around the client’s head

PAGES 422-423

3

4

UNDERDIRECTED

OFF BASE

PERM PATTERNSRECTANGLE OR 9-BLOCK

CONTOUR

ONE-TWOBRICKLAY

SPIRALBRICKLAY

ALTERNATING OBLONG

323COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

Used to achieve a variety of customized texture results

Base Perming: Adds texture only at the of the hair strand;

adds and support but not end curl

Away From the Base Perming: Adds anywhere along the

strand except at the base

Piggyback Perming: Combines base perming and

from the perming

PAGES 424-425

3322

ADVANCED PERM

TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS

STRAND VARIATIONS

TYPES OF BASE VARIATIONS

ALERT!Always read and follow manufacturer’s before you

begin wrapping. A special shampoo or a pre-wrap solution designed to be applied

you wrap the hair may be included in the perm you

have selected. Some manufacturers may recommend applying the perm solution

to prior to wrapping.

Which diameter of perm tool (small, medium or large) do you think is more

popular in today’s market and why? Discuss your answer with a friend.

COMPRESSION BASES WOVEN BASES (ZIGZAG BASES)

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

Chemical process that transforms the hair into lasting perm texture

Fill in the basic steps of the chemical phase

Processing

3322

TYPES OF ADVANCED PERM PATTERNS

CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING

BASIC STEPS OF

THE CHEMICAL PHASE

PROCESSING

PAGES 426-427

Neutralizing

To permanently change the hair from to

, strong disulfide bonds found in the cortex of the protein

chains are and

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

ZONAL PATTERNS (PARTIAL PERMS)

FREEFORM PATTERNS

ERGONOMIC TIPS FOR PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING

• When wrapping the hair, stand directly behind the section to be wrapped, not to one side or the other.

• Be sure the perm tools, end papers and spray bottle are within easy reach of your free hand. You will find it difficult to perform a smooth and even wrap if you need to shift when reaching for supplies.

• Do not bend over, stoop or raise your shoulders uncomfortably while wrapping.

325COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORYPAGES 427-428

3322

Alkaline (cold) perms: The perm solution chemically breaks (or reduces) the

strong while the hair is wrapped

on the perm tools

Acid (heat) waves: , and

break the disulfide bonds

With both types of perm solutions the processing action softens the

structure and allows the disulfide bonds to shift,

assuming the of the tool

Self-Timing:

Positive Test Curl:

Getting the desired texture results depends on leaving the

on the hair for the correct amount of time

Stops the processing action and removes all

before neutralizing

Use gentle to avoid disturbing the

hair on the perm tools

Removes before neutralizing

DISULFIDE BOND (S-S BOND)

ALKALINE WAVES

ACID WAVES

APPLYING PERM SOLUTION

TIMING AND TESTING

RINSING

BLOTTING

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

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Final chemical step in the perm process

Reforms the

Reduces the

Rehardens the

Main ingredient in most neutralizers:

pH range:

1st method for rinsing the neutralizer:

2nd method for rinsing neutralizer:

Two main categories of perms used in salons are alkaline (cold) perms and acid

(heat) perms

DIFFERENCES

NEUTRALIZING

RINSING AND REMOVING

PERM TOOLS

CATEGORIES OF

PERM SOLUTIONS

PAGES 428-430

ALERT!Always read manufacturers’ directions to achieve the best results from their

perm products.

ALKALINE PERMS ACID PERMS

327COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

3322

Analyzing the porosity, elasticity, texture and hair density will help you:

• Choose the right base size and

• Select proper

• Manage processing

Tenacity refers to the or with which

a product can penetrate the hair cuticle

DRAPING PROCEDURE FOR CHEMICAL SERVICESNumber in correct order:

Place towel around client’s neck; fasten shampoo cape over towel

Turn client’s collar under

Check that cape has not fallen inside back of chair

Ask client to remove neck jewelry, earrings and eyeglasses

Fold edge of towel down over cape; drape second towel over shampoo

cape and fasten

Look for abnormalities on the scalp, such as:

• •

• •

Never apply chemicals over any abnormal scalp condition

HAIR ANALYSIS

TENACITY

DRAPING FOR

CHEMICAL SERVICES

SCALP ANALYSIS

PAGES 431-435

POROSITY ELASTICITY TEXTURE DENSITY

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12.1 PERMINGTHEORY

3322

Help determine how a client’s hair will react to a perm; take time to test on

, , or hair

colored with

PRELIMINARY TEST CURL PROCEDURENumber in correct order:

Set timer and process according to manufacturer’s directions

Shampoo hair once and gently towel-dry

Apply protective cream to surrounding area and cover with plastic

Wrap one perm tool in concealed area that represents overall condition

of hair

Wrap coil of cotton around perm tool to protect surrounding hair

from chemicals

Apply perm solution to wrapped hair; keep chemicals away from

unwrapped hair

Check the test curl at least every five minutes

Hair is ready when

automatically forms a strong, well-defined “S” shape or pattern

If metallic salts are suspected: perform a prior to

perm service

Remove 20 strands of hair, immerse in 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of

ammonia in glass bowl for minutes

PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS

TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS

PAGE 436

ALERT!Do not perm until the metallic product has been cut out of hair.

HAIR REACTION TYPE OF SALT RESPONSE

Lightens slightly

Lightens quickly

No reaction in 30 min

Solution boils/odor/ hair pulls apart

329COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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12.2 RELAXINGTHEORY

3322

To change the hair from to

Loosening or of the hair’s existing texture

BASIC RELAXING THEORY

FOUR BASIC RELAXER SERVICES

TWO MAJOR CATEGORIESTYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS

SODIUM HYDROXIDE (SODIUM)

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE (THIO)

• Also known as:

• Gentler than base relaxers;

pH of 11.5 to 14

• Used on:

• Also known as:

• Strengths of mild, regular and

super; pH of 8.5 to 9.5

• Used on:

CURL DIFFUSION (CHEMICAL BLOW-OUT)1

VIRGIN RELAXER2

3 RETOUCH RELAXER

4 ZONAL RELAXER

ALERT!Do not apply sodium hydroxide relaxer to extremely hair that

has been colored with permanent hair color or lightened hair (decolorized, bleached); do

not apply sodium hydroxide to hair that has been permed or is going to be permed with

. Multiple services performed over the

hair reduce the number of bonds in the hair, which can cause severe breakage.

PAGES 441-444

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PAGES 447-454

Relaxing the hair involves both and

steps

Sectioning of hair (for organization and )

Applying product (with brush)

Before applying relaxer product, protect hairline and ears with base cream (basing)

Smoothing or

Timing and

Rinsing and

Neutralizing (Use acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo or to

reharden (lock) hair into new, straighter shape)

Steps in creating new relaxed curl pattern:

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Two advanced services: thermal reconditioning and curl reformation

Also known as:

Main Steps for Thermal Reconditioning are:

1. Relax the hair with an

-based product

2. Straighten the hair using a

3. the hair with a designated product

THE PHASES OF

A RELAXER SERVICE

CHEMICAL PHASE

PHYSICAL PHASE

ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY

THERMAL RECONDITIONING

3322

12.2 RELAXINGTHEORY

How is the relaxer process different from the perm process? Why? Discuss your

answer with a classmate.

Thermal reconditioning presents a higher level of difficulty than other relaxer services.

331COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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PAGES 454-461

Designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair; hair is relaxed and

then permed to create new curl pattern

Curl reformation is also known as:

Draping protects the client’s clothing and helps prevent skin irritations or burns

possibly caused by the relaxer chemicals.

CURL REFORMATION

DRAPING FOR

CHEMICAL SERVICES

PRELIMINARY STRAND TESTING

TESTING FOR METALLIC SALTS

12.2 RELAXINGTHEORY

REDUCE: reduce existing by applying

REFORM: produce new curl pattern around

REBOND: neutralize (fix) the chemical bonds and lock in new

ALERT!Avoid leaving a client unattended while the hair is processing.

STRAND TEST PROCEDURE SODIUM HYDROXIDE RELAXER SERVICE STRAND TEST PROCEDURE CURL REFORMATION

• Partoffsmallsectioninmostresistantarea

• Applychemicalrelaxer

• Followmanufacturer’stimingguide

• Smooththehair

• Rinse,useneutralizingshampooand -dry

• Testanotherareausing relaxer if strands did not relax enough

• Shampooandtowel-dryhair

• Applybasecreamonscalpandhairline

• Follow directions

• Wrapcottonaroundthestrandto

• Applychemicalrearranger,smooth,rinse and

• Applycurlboosterandwrapstrandonpermtool

• Checkhair

• Unfastenpermtool1½to2turnsofrodtocheck test

• Process,rinseand

• Evaluateanddocument

MAIN STEPS FOR

CURL REFORMATION

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SKILLS BOOSTERSoon you will be putting the fundamentals just learned into action by practicing the related procedures located in the

Designer’s Approach program. As you review the ideas presented in this chapter consider the following points as a

way of boosting your skills.

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed

next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Locate three magazine

photos, one with small, one

with medium and one with

large curl sizes. Compare with

a partner the form, length,

color and texture of the curls.

Compare directions from

two different perm or relaxer

manufacturers and list similar

and different instructions.

Create a promotion

spotlighting perms or

relaxers as a service in

the salon.

1. Practice popular procedures first: Which perm pattern do you think you will perform most often in the salon?

2. Recognize where you need practice: Which step of the perm procedure do you feel will require more of your practice time?

3. Visualize success: Describe a client you know that might request a relaxer service.

4. Practice dealing with clients personally: Which part of the relaxer service do you think might cause clients to be concerned or hesitant?

5. Set a goal for excellence: How many perms do you think you will need to perform in order to achieve salon-ready timing and quality results? How many relaxers?

333COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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THE CHALLENGENow it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box

that follows to check yourself.

1. Perming adds which three elements to the hair? ,

and .

2. The two major phases of perming are the physical phase and the phase.

3. The phase of perming that involves wrapping the hair around the desired tool is the phase.

4. Perm tools come in various lengths, diameters and .

5. TRUE FALSE The chemical phase of perming involves applying the perm solution, rinsing it from the hair, then applying

the neutralizer and rinsing it from the hair.

6. The most common ingredient found in products that completely straighten the

hair is .

7. Prior to a chemical service, it is important to analyze the client’s hair to determine the porosity, elasticity

and .

8. TRUE FALSE Never apply a thio relaxer over hair that has been relaxed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer or vice versa,

since these two chemicals are not compatible and severe damage or breakage can occur.

9. A chemical service designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair is known as

curl .

10. In a curl reformation procedure, the natural curl is reduced by applying a product known as a rearranger. The main

ingredient found in a rearranger is .

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MEMORYBOXLook up each answer on the corresponding page in the Cosmetology Fundamentals coursebook. Check “GOT IT” for all correct answers and “NOT YET” for all incorrect responses. Record all of your correct responses in the “I KNOW” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I NEED TO STUDY” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this study guide.

NOT YET I NEED TO STUDYI KNOWGOT IT

KNOW CHART

PAGE 413

PAGE 415

PAGE 415

PAGE 417

PAGE 426

PAGE 443

PAGE 445

PAGE 459, 463

PAGE 454

PAGE 455

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

SHOW YOU KNOW Identify which type of tool and wrapping pattern was used for the following images.

335COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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KNOW What are the two basic

techniques for wrapping hair

around a perm tool?

COMPREHENDExplain the purpose of an end

paper in the perming process.

APPLY Fill in the basic steps

involved in the chemical

process of perming.

The basic steps involved in the chemical phase of perming are:

1. Applying perm solution

2.

3.

4.

5. Applying neutralizer

6.

7. Removing perm tools

ANALYZE Compare the pH of an alkaline

perm to the pH of an acid perm.

SYNTHESIZE Summarize why it is important

to analyze the porosity,

elasticity, texture and density

of the client’s hair prior to

performing a perm service.

EVALUATE In your own words please state

the cause for extreme breakage

that may occur shortly after

relaxer services. How would you

avoid this problem?

KNOWLEDGE GRIDStart at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your

understanding of Chapter 12, Texture. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build

self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

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All designs will be judged for:

PLAN/SKETCH

DEMONSTRATION

EXPLANATION TOTAL POINTS

A CLASS ACTNow that you have completed your work in the study of Texture, it’s time to demonstrate your creative talents.

Each member of the class will plan, sketch, demonstrate and explain a wrap pattern. You may create a new

directional pattern or use one from the chapter.

Remember: Before starting the wrap on a mannequin you need to sketch the wrapping pattern, list key features to

be explained and name your creation!

KEY FEATURES

DESIGN NAME

POINTS

SKETCH

1 2 4 6 93 5 87 10

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BRAIN CONDITIONERMultiple choice. Circle the correct answer.

1. Which of the following wrapping techniques requires the hair to revolve around the perm tool at least 2½ times to create a complete curl pattern? a. overlap b. spiral c. cushion d. bookend

2. Perm rods that produce curls or waves that are uniform throughout the hair strands are: a. concave b. straight c. spiral d. smaller in the center

3. With concave rods the hair on both ends travels farther than the hair in the center to make one complete turn around the rod, creating a: a. larger, looser curl in the center b. narrow curl throughout the strands c. consistent curl throughout the strands d. wider and more spiraling pattern on the ends

4. Which type of perm tools produce small firm curls? a. small diameter b. large diameter c. long with large diameters d. short with large diameters

5. When a smaller perm tool is used, the length reduction is: a. less b. greater c. none d. smaller

6. The most common end paper technique used to avoid bunching at the ends is the: a. spiral b. cushion c. bookend d. double-paper (double-flat)

7. Perming a one-diameter base size is: a. equal to the diameter of the perm tool b. 2 times the size of the perm tool c. 3 times the size of the perm tool d. 4 times the size of the perm tool

8. A larger base size will produce what type of curl? a. longer b. tighter c. looser d. shorter

9. Too much hair on a perm tool can cause: a. frizziness b. dryness c. breakage d. an uneven curl result

10. To achieve maximum volume, which tool position should be used? a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base d. underdirected

11. The most common base control for perming is: a. half-off base b. on-base c. off-base d. underdirected

12. Which of the following tool positions results in no curl at the scalp? a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base d. underdirected

13. What structure must be permanently broken to change the hair from a straight to curly state? a. carbon b. eumelanin c. melanocytes d. disulfide bonds

14. Which procedure is used to remove all of the perm solution? a. rinsing b. reducing c. processing d. shampooing

15. Which important step ensures that excess water is not left in the strands before neutralizing? a. sectioning b. reducing c. blotting d. shampooing

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16. Which procedure reduces the swelling of the hair and rehardens the bonds into the new shifted position during a perm process? a. rinsing with cold water b. rinsing with hot water c. applying a neutralizer d. applying a processing agent

17. Alkaline perms carry a pH of: a. 4.5 - 5.5 b. 6.0 - 7.5 c. 8.0 - 9.5 d. 10 - 14

18. Which waving solution is not recommended for highly porous hair? a. acid b. heat c. alkaline d. endothermic

19. Hair should be wrapped without tension when using: a. alkaline perms b. exothermic acid waves c. acid waves without heat d. endothermic acid waves

20. Which of the following waving solutions has the shortest processing time? a. warm b. alkaline c. endothermic acid d. exothermic acid

21. Acid perms have a pH of: a. 4.9 - 5.2 b. 5.9 - 6.2 c. 6.9 - 7.2 d. 7.9 - 8.2

22. Which element do most acid perms use along with tension and waving solution to process hair? a. heat b. cold c. alkalinity d. drying

23. Wrapping with firm, even tension when using an acid perm produces which of the following effects? a. boosts penetration of waving solution b. decreases penetration of waving solution c. increases processing time d. creates uneven wave pattern

24. It is essential to completely rinse the acid perm solution before applying the: a. conditioner b. shampoo c. neutralizer d. relaxer

25. Which of the following statements is true about alkaline perms? a. need heat b. better for fragile or tinted hair c. strong curl pattern d. slower processing time

26. Which of the following benefits is associated with acid perms? a. strong curl pattern b. better for resistant hair c. faster processing time d. better for fragile or tinted hair

27. Which term refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals? a. elasticity b. porosity c. texture d. density

28. The hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original condition is called: a. elasticity b. porosity c. texture d. density

29. Smaller base sizes are required for hair with: a. thin density b. thick density c. good elasticity d. average porosity

30. Which of the following descriptions does NOT identify a category of texture? a. fine b. coarse c. porous d. medium

31. A salon professional should never use an ammonium thioglycolate product on a client’s hair if it has been previously treated with: a. conditioner b. neutralizer c. shampoo d. sodium hydroxide

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32. Which of the following statements about perming hair is true? a. do not perm hair that has been colored b. do not perm hair that is limp c. do not perm hair if there are scalp abrasions present d. do not perm short hair near hairline

33. Which of the following statements is TRUE about a preliminary test curl? a. avoid shampooing prior to testing b. helps determine how a client’s hair will react to a perm c. barrier cream is not necessary d. avoid testing hair that has been bleached

34. A technique used to loosen or relax tightly curled hair patterns by approximately 50% of their natural shape is called: a. virgin relaxer b. relaxer retouch c. zonal relaxer d. curl diffusion

35. Which of the following relaxer services is performed on selected zones of the head? a. virgin relaxer b. relaxer retouch c. zonal relaxer d. curl diffusion

36. Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally used on which type of hair? a. wavy b. straight c. nonresistant d. tightly curled

37. Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of: a. 5 to 6.5 b. 6.5 to 8 c. 8.5 to10 d. 11.5 to 14

38. Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to: a. soften b. shrink c. harden d. grow

39. Relaxer strengths for ammonium thioglycolate are categorized as all of the following EXCEPT: a. mild b. regular c. super d. heavy

40. A pull test is performed to check for which of the following conditions? a. porosity b. melanin c. elasticity d. texture

41. What is the optimum percent of natural curl pattern to remove when relaxing tightly curled hair? a. 50% b. 70% c. 85% d. 100%

42. Which of the following products protects the skin around the hairline and ears when applying a chemical relaxer product? a. protective cream b. neutralizer c. conditioner d. booster

43. The action of spreading the chemical relaxer through the hair with the spine or back of a comb is known as combing or: a. smoothing b. sectioning c. diffusion d. blotting

44. An advanced relaxer service that results in straight hair by using heat and a flat iron to restructure the bonds of the hair is known as: a. thermal reconditioning b. curl diffusion c. curl reformation d. virgin relaxer

45. The technique that sets thermal reconditioning apart from other relaxer services is the use of a: a. brush b. blow dryer c. flat iron d. curling iron

46. The three main steps performed for thermal reconditioning are relaxing, straightening and which of the following? a. neutralizing b. timing c. reforming d. conditioning

47. Ammonium thioglycolate is the main ingredient found in: a. rearrangers b. conditioners c. shampoos d. styling gels

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48. The three main steps of the curl reformation process are reduce, reform and which of the following? a. timing b. rebond c. retouch d. condition

49. When performing a curl reformation procedure, the perm tool diameter should be at least how many times larger than the diameter of the natural curl pattern? a. two b. three c. four d. five

50. Which of the following steps is NOT performed when offering a sodium hydroxide relaxer service? a. strand test b. periodic comb tests c. pre-shampoo client’s hair d. follow with neutralizing shampoo

FINAL REVIEW Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer.

On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.

1. PAGE 416

2. PAGE 417

3. PAGE 417

4. PAGE 418

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Notes to Myself Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note

especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from

friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

MY REFLECTIONS ABOUT TEXTURE

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Things to Do

TEXTUREREVIEWHISTORY OF PERMING

PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING

CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING

PERM ESSENTIALS

INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY

PERM SERVICE ESSENTIALS

PERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEW

PERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

• From sticks to machines to chemicals• Straight to curly is now safe, easy and effective

• First phase• Wrapping + Selected Tool + Desired Pattern and

Direction = Shape and Size of Curl

• Second phase• Processing + Neutralizing = Permanent Desired Curl

• Beyond the physical and chemical phase, a successful perm service depends on: • Organizing and selecting appropriate products, tools and equipment • Practicing infection control and safety precautions • Ensuring an exceptional guest experience:

Connect, Consult, Create and Complete

• Link to the voice of experience

PERMINGTHEORY

66343COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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GROW WHAT YOU KNOWDiscuss what you learned about each of these topics.

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RELAXINGTHEORY

TEXTUREREVIEW(CONT’D)HISTORY OF RELAXING

BASIC RELAXING THEORY

ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY

RELAXER ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY

RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

RELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEW

RELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

• From lye to household ingredients to pressing • Curly to straight is now predictable and accessible

• Curl diffusion loosens tightly curled hair• Virgin relaxer straightens up to 85%• Retouch matches new growth to previously

relaxed hair

• Zonal used in nape and perimeter • To create new texture patterns: • Identify existing texture pattern • Determine desired texture pattern • Analyze hair competency • Select appropriate relaxer service • Choose the proper relaxer product and formula

• Thermal reconditioning straightens wavy to curly hair up to 100%

• Curl reformation relaxes tightly curled hair, to curly or wavy hair, by reducing the curl pattern and then perming to create a new curl pattern

• A successful relaxer service depends on: • Understanding the theory of basic and advanced relaxing • Organizing the proper tools, supplies and equipment • Practicing infection control and safety precautions • Ensuring an exceptional guest experience: Connect, Consult, Create and Complete

• Link to the voice of experience

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