The A To Z Of Skincare Ingredients · Diet is important. 3000 mg omega 3 is a great recommendation to ensure a healthy cellular membrane. Both the keratinocyte and melanocyte need

The A To Z Of

Skincare Ingredients

And How They Work On The

Skin With A Focus On Melanogenesis

Candace Noonan, LE November 2015

Disclosure

Candace Noonan is a Licensed Esthetician, True U Certified Educator and Master Trainer for Dermaconcepts, distributor of Environ Skin Care.

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The Evolution Of Skin

333

The Process Of Melanogenesis

Pituitary gland

UVUV

• POMC • Melanin

Stimulating Hormone

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The Melanocyte

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The Melanocyte

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The Keratinocyte

The Keratinocyte

What Goes Wrong?

• The Melanocyte is damaged

• Dendrites shorten • DNA damage

• pigment dumping • uncontrolled pigment

production

The Keratinocyte is damaged

• pigment is inadvertently placed in stem cell

• cell to cell communication

• keratinocyte saturation

• stem cells bear imprinted pigment

• keratinocyte cannot stop the process

• pigment is trapped in Dermal-Epidermal Junction

Vitamin A

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Vitamin A

Retinoids

Alcohol

Retinol

Ester (fat)

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Acetate

Carotenoids

Beta-CaroteneAcid

Retinoic Acid

Vitamin A

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Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A)Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A)

Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A)

Vitamin B

B5 Panthenol

B12 Cyanocobalamin

B7Biotin

B3 Niacinimide

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Vitamin B3

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Niacinamide (Vit. B3)

Vitamin C

Magnesium Ascorbyl

Phosphate

Sodium Ascorbyl

Phosphate

Ascorbyl Tetraiso-palmitate

Ascorbic Acid

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Vitamin C

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Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP)

Hydroquinone

Lactic Acid

Kojic Acid

Scientific research has shown the benefits of

using vitamin E are:

• Tocopherol and Tocopheryl Acetate • This is a lipid soluble antioxidant which assists in protecting

cell membranes. • Tocopherol protects the lipid phase in the products.

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Vitamin E

AntioxidantsWhy are they so important?

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• Protect from free radical damage • unstable molecule with an unpaired electron

• caused by external factors i.e. pollution, cigarette smoke, UV light and environmental stress

• naturally caused during energy production

• immune system produces free radicals to fight off infections, but they can also damage healthy cells

• in excess, Free Radicals can create cellular destruction

• their effect can be minimized by supplementation of antioxidants

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Lycopene Lutein

Carotenoids

Coenzyme Q10,

Ubiquinone

Resveratrol

Ferulic Acid CurcuminEGCG(Epigallocatechin)

Selenium

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Glutathione

Witch Hazel

Green Rooibos Tea

Extract

Antioxidants

Sun Protection Actives & Actions

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Physical

Titanium dioxide Zinc Oxide

Sun Protection

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Chemical

Salicylates Cinnamates BenzophenonesPara amino benzoates

Sun Protection

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Acids and Enzymes

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Alpha Hydroxy Acids: • Glycolic Acid

• Lactic Acid

• Mandelic Acid

Fruit Acids: • Citric Acid

• Malic Acid

• Tantaric Acid

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alpha hydroxy acids

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Hydroquinone

Lactic Acid

Kojic Acid

Beta Hydroxy Acids :• Salicylic Acid.

Other Desquamating Acids :• Trichloracetic Acid (TCA)

• Resorcinol

• Phenol Peels

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beta hydroxy acids

• Kojic Acid• Hydroquinone

• Sepiwhite MSH• Azelaic Acid

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Other Actives

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Hydroquinone

Lactic Acid

Kojic Acid

ggSepiwhite MSHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee P

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Laser & Light Technologies

Cosmetic Lasers

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x-rays cosmic rays

Microwaves TV and

radio waves

Excimer Argon

KTP

Dye

Ruby

AlexandriteNd:YAG

Er:YAG

CO2

308

488

532 585

755

694

1064

2940

1060

0

UVVISIBLE

INFRARED400 nm 700 nm

Holmium

2100

Visible Light And Near-Infrared Lasers

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• Argon: blue-green (488nm); melanin, blood • KTP: green (532nm); melanin, blood

• Pulsed Dye: yellow (585nm); blood • Ruby: deep red (694nm); melanin

Visible Light Lasers

Near-infrared Lasers

• Alexandrite: near infrared (755nm); melanin, blood

• Diode: near infrared (810nm); melanin, blood • Nd:YAG: near infrared (1064nm); melanin, blood, water

Difference between Lasers & IPL

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LASER IPL

Broad Spectrum

Non-coherent

Non-collimated (divergent)

Monochromatic

Coherent

Collimated (non-divergent)

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Laser & Light Technologies

A comparison of Q-switched alexandrite laser and intense pulsed light for the treatment of freckles and lentigines in Asian persons: A randomized, physician-blinded, split-face comparative trial Chia-Chen Wang, MDa, b, , , Yuh-Mou Sue, MDc, Chih-Hsiung Yang, MDa, Chih-Kang Chen, MDa

•Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology Volume 54, Issue 5, May 2006, Pages 804–810

All patients experienced improvement (P < .0001). Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation developed in one patient with freckles and 8 patients with lentigines after QSAL. No postinflammatory hyperpigmentation occurred after IPL. Freckles achieved greater improvement after QSAL than IPL (P = .04). In lentigines, the results after IPL were better than QSAL among those with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation after QSAL.

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is much less frequent with fractional laser skin resurfacing than with other ablative procedures but is observed in 1% to 32% of patients, depending on the system used, parameters applied, and skin phototypes treated.7,11,19,24,26–29 Patients with darker skin phototypes (Fitzpatrick III-VI) have a higher likelihood of developing PIH. In general, fractional resurfacing of darker skin should use higher fluencies, lower density settings, and longer treatment intervals.26,30 To further minimize the risk of PIH, patients should avoid sun exposure at least 2 weeks before and after fractional skin resurfacing.26,31 In contrast to traditional nonfractionated laser resurfacing, PIH is typically less intense and of shorter duration. Although it often resolves without treatment, application of topical bleaching and mild peeling agents (e.g., retinoic, azelaic, ascorbic, glycolic acid) and judicious use of sunblock can hasten its resolution.2

•Fractionated Laser Skin Resurfacing Treatment Complications: A Review ANDREI I. METELITSA MD1 andTINA S. ALSTER MD2 Article first published online: 19 JAN 2010 DOI: 10.1111/j.1524-4725.2009.01434.x

© 2010 by the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Inc.

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Client Responsibility

Client ResponsibilityPigmentation is a very frustrating and difficult condition to deal with.

A treatment program must take many different aspects into consideration, that may not work at all if a few rules are not adhered to, or if certain changes are not made in the client's skin care regimen and/or diet.

•SUN EXPOSURE Sun AVOIDANCE is a must. Every treatment protocol will fail if this is not the case! And not even "protected skin under the umbrella with a hat and sunscreen, at the beach" is acceptable! A daily SPF is a must, and one CANNOT rely on the SPF provided by makeup - it rubs off.

• INTERNAL Diet is important. 3000 mg omega 3 is a great recommendation to ensure a healthy cellular membrane. Both the keratinocyte and melanocyte need those healthy membranes to function efficiently. Supplementation with antioxidants would also be a great recommendation

•MEDICATIONS Photo sensitizing medications may contribute to pigmentation problems and include any progesterone based ones. Cortisone/steroid meds, oral and topical chemotherapy, antibiotics/anti fungal, certain essential oils, fragrances, pain medication, anti depressants

Client Responsibility(*always consult your physician prior to adding or discontinuing

the use of medications, prescriptions and supplements)

•INGREDIENTS Vitamin A to normalize the keratinocytes and melanocytes. The higher the dose the better. Consistent application over a period of time is a must. Vitamin B3 (niacinimide) and Sepiwhite MSH to control formation of melanin and transfer from melanocyte to keratinocytes. Higher doses of C recommended as the tyrosinase inhibitor. Antioxidants to help keep oxidative stress down as this whole process is stressful to all cells involved

• CELLULAR AGE After 35 we lose 10-20% functioning melanocytes every 10 years. So remaining cells are under even more stress. This may lead to cellular DNA damage or cellular senescence, and make the condition almost impossible to correct.

CONCLUSION

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Treatment progress and success takes time. It may take months to start seeing a slight change and ANY sun exposure will set the progress back. You should only expect* to see results after 6 months of diligently;

• removing offending causes and contributors to pigmentation • avoiding the sun and using a SPF daily • adjusting the diet to include omega 3 and high dose antioxidants • use of the correct home care regimen • preferable weekly professional treatments • light therapies according to risk factors and Fitzpatrick Type

www.Dermaconcepts.comToll Free Customer Care Line:

1-877-DERMACARE (337-6227)

Thank you!Candace Noonan, LE

October 2015

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Documents

The A To Z Of Skincare Ingredients · Diet is important. 3000 mg omega 3 is a great recommendation to ensure a healthy cellular membrane. Both the keratinocyte and melanocyte need