The Best of Vermont,New Hampshire & Maine

One of the greatest challenges of planning a vacation in northern New England isnarrowing down the options. Where to start? Here’s an entirely biased list of destina-tions, the places I enjoy returning to time and again. Over years of traveling throughthe region, I’ve discovered these places to be worth more than just a quick stop; they’reworth a major detour.

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1 The Seven Wonders of Northern New England• The Appalachian Trail: This 2,100-

mile trail from Georgia to Maine hassome of the most spectacular sceneryin northern New England. The trailenters the region in southwest Ver-mont, winding through the southernGreen Mountains before anglingtoward the White Mountains of NewHampshire. From here, it passes byremote Maine lakes and through hillytimberlands before finishing up onthe summit of Mount Katahdin. Seechapters 5, 8, and 10.

• Lake Champlain (Vermont): “NewEngland’s West Coast” is lapped bythe waves of Lake Champlain, thatvast, shimmering sheet of waterbetween Vermont and New York. Youcan’t help but enjoy good views whenyou’re on this lake—to the west arethe stern Adirondacks; to the east arethe distant, rolling ridges of theGreen Mountains. Sign up for a lakecruise, or just hop the ferry fromBurlington for a low-budget excur-sion across the lake and back. Seechapter 6.

• Connecticut River (Vermont andNew Hampshire): The broad, lazy

Connecticut River forms the borderbetween New Hampshire and Ver-mont, and it’s a joy to travel along.You’ll find wonderful vistas, peacefulvillages, and evidence of the region’srich past when the river served as ahighway for northern New England.Today, it’s a hidden gem of a destina-tion. See chapters 5, 7, and 8.

• Franconia Notch (New Hampshire):This rocky pass through the craggiestpart of the White Mountains is spec-tacular to drive through, but it’s evenmore wondrous to stop and explore onfoot or bike. Hike the flanking ridges,bike the pathway along the valleyfloor, or just lounge in the sun at theedge of Echo Lake. See chapter 8.

• Tuckerman Ravine (New Hamp-shire): This glacial cirque high on theflanks of Mount Washington (NewEngland’s highest peak) seems partmedieval, part alpine, and entirelyotherworldly. Snows blown across theupper lip throughout the winteraccumulate to depths of 70 feet ormore. In spring, skiers from acrossthe U.S. come to challenge its sheer

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face, and hikers find snow in its vastbowl during summer. See chapter 8.

• Acadia National Park (Maine): NewEngland’s only national park is alsoone of the most popular in the U.S.The rocky, surf-pounded coastline isthe main attraction, but don’t over-look the quiet boreal forests and opensummits of low mountains with spec-tacular coastal views. See chapter 9.

• Mount Katahdin (Maine): Risingabruptly from a thick blanket ofNorth Woods forest, the nearly mile-high Mount Katahdin has an ineffa-ble spiritual quality. It’s the centerpieceof equally inspiring Baxter State Park,one of the last, best wilderness areasof the eastern states. See chapter 10.

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2 The Best Small Towns• Grafton (Vermont): Just a few

decades ago, Grafton was a down-at-the-heels mountain town slowlybeing reclaimed by termites and theelements. A wealthy family took onthe town as a pet project, lovinglyrestoring it to the way it once was—even burying electric lines to reclaimthe landscape. It doesn’t feel like a liv-ing history museum; it just feels right.See “Brattleboro & the SouthernGreen Mountains” in chapter 5.

• Woodstock (Vermont): Woodstockhas a stunning village green, a wholerange of 19th-century homes, wood-land walks just outside town, and asettled, old-money air. This is a goodplace to explore by foot or bike, or tojust sit on a porch and watch summerunfold. See “Woodstock & Environs”in chapter 5.

• Montpelier (Vermont): This is theway all state capitals should be—slow-paced, small enough that youcan walk everywhere, and home tolots of shops selling wrenches andstrapping tape. Montpelier alsoshows a more sophisticated edge,with its culinary institute, a theatershowing art-house films, and several

fine bookshops. However, at heart,it’s a small town where you could runinto the governor buying duct tape ata corner store. See “Montpelier, Barre& Waterbury” in chapter 6.

• Hancock (New Hampshire): Thisquiet hamlet—a satellite of the com-mercial center of Peterborough—hasa historic and settled, white-clap-board grace and has been utterlyunperturbed since it was founded inthe 18th century. See “The Monad-nock Region & the ConnecticutRiver Valley” in chapter 7.

• Camden (Maine): This seaside townhas everything—a beautiful harbor,great old architecture, and even itsown tiny mountain range affordinggreat hikes and sweeping ocean views.With lots of elegant bed-and-break-fasts, it’s a perfect base for explo-rations farther afield. See “PenobscotBay” in chapter 9.

• Castine (Maine): Soaring elm trees, apeaceful harborside setting, grandhistoric homes, and a selection ofgood inns make this a great spot tosoak up Maine’s coastal ambience offthe beaten path. See “The Blue HillPeninsula” in chapter 9.

3 The Best Places to See Fall Foliage• Route 100 (Vermont): Winding the

length of Vermont from Readsboroto Newport, Route 100 is the major

north-south route through the centerof the Green Mountains, yet it’s sur-prisingly undeveloped for the most

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part. It can be crowded along thesouthern stretches on autumn week-ends, but head farther north andyou’ll leave the crowds behind. Seechapters 5 and 6.

• I-91 (Vermont): An interstate? Don’tscoff. If you like your foliage viewingbig and fast, cruise I-91 from WhiteRiver Junction to Newport. You’ll beoverwhelmed with gorgeous terrain,from the Connecticut River Valley to

the rolling hills of the NortheastKingdom. The traffic isn’t as bad ason state roads, either. See chapters 5and 6.

• Aboard the MS Mount Washington(New Hampshire): One of the moremajestic views of the White Moun-tains is from Lake Winnipesaukee tothe south. It’s especially appealingfrom the deck of the Mount Washing-ton, a handsome 230-foot vessel that

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takes tours on the lake through mid-October. The fringe of fall colors onthe shoreline is a bonus. See “TheLake Winnipesaukee Region” inchapter 7.

• Crawford Notch (New Hampshire):Route 302 passes through this scenicvalley, where you can see the brilliantred maples and yellow birches highon the hillsides. Mount Washingtonstands guard in the background and,in fall, is likely to be dusted with an

early snow. See “Crawford Notch” inchapter 8.

• Blueberry barrens of DowneastMaine: Maine’s wild blueberry bar-rens turn a brilliant cranberry-red infall, setting the fields ablaze withcolor. Wander the dirt roads north-east of Cherryfield through theupland barrens, or drive Route 1between Harrington and Machiaspast the experimental farm atop, ofcourse, Blueberry Hill. See chapter 9.

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4 The Best Coastal Views• Bicycle Route 1A, Hampton Beach

to Portsmouth (New Hampshire):For a broad sampling of scenery onNew Hampshire’s minuscule coast-line, you begin with sandy beaches,then pass rocky headlands and hand-some mansions before coasting intoPortsmouth, the region’s most scenicseaside city. See “The Seacoast” inchapter 7.

• Drive the Park Loop Road at Aca-dia National Park (Maine): Theregion’s premier ocean drive startsalong a ridge with views of French-man Bay and the Porcupine Islands,then dips down along the rockyshores where surf crashes against thedark rocks. Plan to do this 20-mileloop at least twice to get the most outof it. See “Mount Desert Island &Acadia National Park” in chapter 9.

• Merchant’s Row by sea kayak(Maine): The islands between Ston-ington and Isle au Haut, rimmedwith pink granite and capped withthe stark spires of spruce trees, areamong the most spectacular any-where. A wonderful way to explorethem is by sea kayak, which will getyou to islands inaccessible by motor-boat. Outfitters take overnight camp-ing trips on the islands. See “TheBlue Hill Peninsula” in chapter 9.

• Hike Monhegan Island (Maine):The village of Monhegan is clusteredaround the harbor of this island faroff the Maine coast. The rest of this700-acre island is comprised of pic-turesque wildlands, with miles oftrails crossing open meadows andtracing rocky bluffs. See “The Mid-Coast” in chapter 9.

• Cruising Maine on a windjammer:See Maine as seafarers saw it for cen-turies—from the ocean, lookinginland. Sailing ships depart from var-ious harbors along the coast, particu-larly Rockland and Camden. Spend anight or a week exploring the dra-matic shoreline. See “Penobscot Bay”in chapter 9.

• Sit in a rocking chair (Maine):Views are often better when you’recaught unaware—such as looking upfrom an engrossing book on the frontporch of an oceanside inn. Chapters9 and 10 mention many hotels andinns on the water. Some of the betterones: Beachmere Inn (Ogunquit),Black Point Inn (Scarborough), GreyHavens (Georgetown Island), EastWind Inn (Tenant’s Harbor),Samoset Resort (Rockport), Inn onthe Harbor (Stonington), Tides Inn(Bar Harbor), and the Claremont(Southwest Harbor).

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5 The Best Active Vacations• Biking from inn to inn (Vermont):

Vermont is a biker’s paradise. Serpen-tine roads wind through verdant hillsand along tumbling streams. Severalorganizations will ferry your baggagefrom inn to inn; you provide thepedal power to get from one point tothe next. See “Enjoying the GreatOutdoors” in chapter 5.

• Skiing in the Green Mountains: Ver-mont has nearly two dozen ski areas,with everything from the cozy friend-liness of Bolton Valley to the high-impact skiing of sprawling Killington.Vermont has long been New Eng-land’s ski capital, and the resorts havelearned how to do it right. Myfavorite? The village of Stowe, wheregreat skiing is combined with finelodging and dining. See chapter 5.

• Hiking the White Mountains (NewHampshire): These rugged peaksdraw hikers from all over the globe,attracted by the history, exceptionallandscapes, and beautiful views fromthe craggy ridgelines. You can under-take day hikes and retreat to comfort-able inns at night, or stay in the hillsat the Appalachian Mountain Club’shistoric high huts. See chapter 8.

• Mountain biking at Acadia(Maine): John D. Rockefeller, Jr.,built the carriage roads of MountDesert Island so the gentry couldenjoy rambles in the woods with theirhorses—away from pesky cars. Today,this extensive network allows forsome of the most enjoyable, aestheti-cally pleasing mountain biking any-where. See “Mount Desert Island &Acadia National Park” in chapter 9.

• Kayaking the Maine coast: With itsmassive, serpentine coastline andthousands of islands, mostly uninhab-ited, Maine is a world-class destinationfor those who like to snoop around bykayak. The Stonington area is consid-ered the best spot for kayaking inMaine, but it’s hard to go wrong any-where north and east of Portland.Beware of dangers in the form of tidesand weather—kayak with a guide ifyou’re a novice. See chapter 9.

• Canoeing the North Woods(Maine): Maine has thousands ofmiles of flowing rivers and streams,and hundreds of miles of shorelinealong remote ponds and lakes. Bringyour tent, sleeping bag, and cookinggear, and come prepared to spend anight under the stars listening to thesounds of loons. See chapter 10.

6 The Best Destinations for Families• Montshire Museum of Science

(Norwich, Vermont): This children’smuseum, on the border of Vermontand New Hampshire, has wonderfulinteractive exhibits on the inside andnature trails along the ConnecticutRiver on the outside. See p. 126.

• Weirs Beach (New Hampshire): Didsomebody say cheesy? You bet. This isthe trip your kids would plan if youweren’t so meddlesome. Weirs Beachon Lake Winnipesaukee offers passive

amusements, such as train and boatrides that appeal to younger kids, andplenty of active adventures for youngteens, such as go-kart racing, waterslides, and video arcades. Parents canrecuperate on the lakeside beach. See“The Lake Winnipesaukee Region”in chapter 7.

• Cog Railway (Crawford Notch, NewHampshire): It’s fun. It’s terrifying.It’s a great glimpse into history. Kidslove this ratchety climb to the top of

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New England’s highest peak (MountWashington) aboard trains speciallydesigned in 1869 to scale the moun-tain. As a technological marvel, therailway attracted tourists by the thou-sands a century ago. They still cometo marvel at its sheer audacity. See“Crawford Notch” in chapter 8.

• Monhegan Island (Maine): Kidsfrom 8 to 12 years old especially enjoyovernight excursions to MonheganIsland. The mail boat from Port Clydeis rustic and intriguing, the hotels arean adventure, and the 700-acre islandis perfect for kids to explore. See “TheMid-Coast” in chapter 9.

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7 The Most Intriguing Historic Homes• Hildene (Manchester, Vermont):

This lavish summer home was builtby Abraham and Mary Todd Lin-coln’s son, Robert. A prosperous busi-nessman, the younger Lincoln builtthis summer retreat complete with a1,000-pipe organ and extensive for-mal gardens. If you’re curious abouthow the other half lived late in Amer-ica’s Gilded Age, this is your destina-tion. See p. 91.

• Canterbury Shaker Village (Canter-bury, New Hampshire): This historicvillage outside Concord captures theShaker way of life, which stressed sim-plicity and industry. See the massivelaundry room, or enjoy a Shaker-inspired meal at the restaurant, fol-lowed by a candlelight tour of thevillage at its most peaceful. See “Man-chester & Concord” in chapter 7.

• Drisco House (Portsmouth, NewHampshire): The Drisco House is themost fascinating of any at StrawberyBanke, the region’s premier historicattraction. Half of this house wasrestored to its 1790s grandeur, andhalf was left as it appeared in the1950s. You’ll learn plenty about howa house adapts to the technology andculture of each era. See “The Sea-coast” in chapter 7.

• Saint-Gaudens National HistoricSite (Cornish, New Hampshire):Sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens hasbeen overshadowed somewhat by hiscontemporary, Daniel Chester French,

but his work was extraordinary andprolific. Learn about the man, andartistic culture of the late–19th andearly–20th centuries, while touring hisstudio and house. See “The Monad-nock Region & the Connecticut RiverValley” in chapter 7.

• Zimmerman House (Manchester,New Hampshire): Designed in 1950by Frank Lloyd Wright, the Zimmer-man house is so, well, 20th century(mid-century modern, to be specific).A great example of a Wright Usonianhome, it offers lessons in how to liveright in any age. See p. 202.

• Victoria Mansion (Portland, Maine):Donald Trump has nothing on theVictorians when it comes to materialexcess. You’ll see Victorian decorativearts at their zenith in this elaborateItalianate mansion, built during theCivil War. It’s open for tours through-out the summer. See p. 288.

• Parson Fisher House (Blue Hill,Maine): Parson Jonathan Fisher, whoserved as minister to the quiet townof Blue Hill in the late–18th century,was a man of extraordinary talents,from designing his own house andbuilding his own clocks to preachingsermons in five languages (includingAramaic). As if that weren’t enough,his primitive landscapes of the regionare widely regarded as among the bestfrom the area. See “The Blue HillPeninsula” in chapter 9.

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8 The Best Places to Rediscover America’s Past• Plymouth (Vermont): President

Calvin Coolidge was born in thishigh, upland valley and the state hasdone a superb job preserving hishometown village. You not only get agood sense of the president’s roots,but also gain a greater understandingof how a New England village onceworked. Don’t miss the excellentcheese shop, owned until recently bythe Coolidge family. See “Killington& Rutland” in chapter 5.

• Shelburne Museum (Shelburne,Vermont): Think of this sprawlingmuseum as New England’s attic.Located on 45 acres on the shores ofLake Champlain, the ShelburneMuseum not only has the usualexhibits of quilts and early glass, butalso whole buildings preserved likespecimens in formaldehyde. Be sureto take in the lighthouse, railroad sta-tion, and stagecoach inn. This is oneof northern New England’s “don’tmiss” destinations. See p. 168.

• Portsmouth (New Hampshire):Portsmouth is a salty coastal city thathas some of the most impressive his-toric homes in New England. Start atStrawbery Banke, a 10-acre com-pound of 42 historic buildings. Then,visit many other grand homes in

nearby neighborhoods, including thehouse where John Paul Jones livedwhile building his warship during theRevolution. See “The Seacoast” inchapter 7.

• Sabbathday Lake Shaker Commu-nity (New Gloucester, Maine): Thisis the last of the active Shaker com-munities in the nation and the onlyone that voted to accept new convertsrather than die out. The 1,900-acrefarm about 45 minutes outside ofPortland has a number of exceptionalbuildings, some dating back to the18th century. Visitors can view exam-ples of Shaker craftsmanship and buylocally grown Shaker herbs to bringhome. See “Portland” in chapter 9.

• Mount Desert Island & Bar Har-bor (Maine): In the mid-1800s,America launched a love affair withnature and never looked back. Seewhere it started, in a setting of surf-wracked rocks, where some of thenation’s most affluent families ven-tured to erect vacation “cottages”with bedrooms by the dozen. Thearea still imparts lessons on how todesign with nature as an accomplicerather than adversary. See “MountDesert Island & Acadia NationalPark,” in chapter 9.

9 The Best Resorts• Woodstock Inn & Resort (Wood-

stock, Vermont; & 800/448-7900 or802/457-1100): The 140-room innwas built in the 1960s with a strongColonial Revival accent. Right on thegreen in picturesque Woodstock, theinn allows easy access to the village,along with plenty of activities,including golf on a course designedby Robert Trent Jones, indoor andoutdoor pools, hiking, and skiing

(downhill and cross-country) in win-ter. See p. 123.

• Basin Harbor Club (Vergennes, Ver-mont; & 800/622-4000 or 802/475-2311): This classic lakesideresort on 700 acres was founded in1886 and is run by descendants ofthe original family owners. Fittingly,the resort’s icon is an Adirondackchair, dozens of which are arrayed forenjoying views across the lake to NewYork. Most guests occupy cottages,

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which are simple rather than swank.See p. 170.

• Balsams Grand Resort Hotel (Dix-ville Notch, New Hampshire; & 800/255-0600 or 800/255-0800 in NewHampshire, or 603/255-3400): Thisplace is like your own castle in asmall country. Set on 15,000 acres infar northern New Hampshire, theBalsams has provided superb hospi-tality and gracious comfort since1866. It has two golf courses, milesof hiking trails, and, in winter, itsown downhill and cross-country skiareas. See p. 258.

• The Mount Washington Resort atBretton Woods (Bretton Woods,New Hampshire; & 800/314-1752or 603/278-1000): The last of thegrand Edwardian resorts, the MountWashington has come back from thebrink of bankruptcy with its famedflair intact. This is the place to golf,climb Mount Washington, or just sit

on the broad porch and feel impor-tant. See p. 245.

• The Colony Hotel (Kennebunkport,Maine; & 800/552-2363 or 207/967-3331): This rambling andgleaming white resort dates back to1914 and has been upgraded over theyears without losing any of its charm.You can play shuffleboard, putt onthe greens, or lounge in the ocean-view pool. More vigorous souls crossthe street to brave the cold Atlanticwaters. See p. 281.

• Quisisana (Center Lovell, Maine; & 207/925-3500, or 914/833-0293in winter): It’s a rustic Maine vaca-tion with a musical twist. The wait-ers, chambermaids, and other staffare recruited from conservatoriesaround the nation, and they performeverything from light opera to cham-ber music for guests at this pine-filledlakeside resort. Between perform-ances, there’s ample opportunity forcanoeing and hiking. See p. 371.

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10 The Best Country Inns• Blueberry Hill Inn (Goshen, Ver-

mont; & 800/448-0707 or 802/247-6735): This remote, casual inn ona quiet byway surrounded by nationalforest is a great retreat. You can enjoyhiking and swimming in summer, ski-ing in the winter. See p. 132.

• Jackson House Inn (Woodstock,Vermont; & 800/448-1890 or 802/457-2065): Constant improvementsand meticulous attention to servicemake this longtime favorite a solidaddition to any “best of” list. Themeals are delectable, and the guestrooms are the picture of antique ele-gance. The only downside? It fronts asometimes noisy road. See p. 122.

• Twin Farms (Woodstock, Vermont;& 800/894-6327 or 802/234-9999):

Just north of Woodstock is the mostelegant inn in New England. Theprices will appall many readers(rooms start at $800 for two, includ-ing all meals and liquor), but you’llcertainly be pampered. Novelist Sin-clair Lewis once lived on this 300-acre farm; today, it’s an aestheticretreat with serenity and exceptionalfood. See p. 123.

• Windham Hill Inn (West Town-shend, Vermont; & 800/944-4080or 802/874-4080): New innkeepershave skillfully upgraded this historicinn, adding amenities such as soakingtubs, while still preserving theantique charm of this 1823 farm-house. It’s at the end of a remote dirtroad in a high upland valley, and

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guests are welcome to explore 160private acres on a network of walkingtrails. See p. 112.

• The Pitcher Inn (Warren, Vermont;& 888/867-8424 or 802/496-6350):Innkeepers who try to meld whimsywith class often end up with disaster,but that’s not the case here. With itsbrand-new building, this New Eng-land–village inn feels more historicthan many old places. The diningroom is top-notch. See p. 148.

• Adair (Bethlehem, New Hampshire;& 888/444-2600 or 603/444-2600):This is one of the newer country man-sions in the White Mountains (it datesfrom 1927), but innkeepers Judy andBill Whitman have done a stellar jobof infusing this Georgian Revival innwith time-honored elegance. Tuckedaway in a little-trekked corner of theWhite Mountains, it has a superb

dining room and easy access to moun-tain activities and golf. See p. 255.

• Claremont (Southwest Harbor,Maine; & 800/244-5036 or 207/244-5036): The 1884 Claremont is aMaine classic. This waterside lodgehas everything a Victorian resortshould, including sparely decoratedrooms, creaky floorboards in thehalls, great views of the water andmountains, and a croquet pitch. Thedining room is only so-so, but South-west Harbor has other diningoptions. See p. 361.

• White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport,Maine; & 207/967-2321): Much ofthe White Barn staff hails fromEurope, and they treat guests gra-ciously. The rooms are a delight, andthe meals (served in a gloriouslyrestored barn) may be the best inMaine. See p. 281.

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11 The Best Bed & Breakfasts• 1811 House (Manchester Village,

Vermont; & 800/432-1811 or 802/362-1811): The 1811 House is oneof the best historic inns around. Ifyou prefer your decor to match thearchitectural era, you’ll be contenthere. Everything is steeped in austere,Early American elegance, nicelyavoiding the kitschy look that oftenafflicts places less adept at re-creatinga historical sensibility. See p. 94.

• Inn at Round Barn Farm (Waits-field, Vermont; & 802/496-2276):The beautiful lap pool hiddenbeneath the monumental formerbarn is only one of the secrets of thischarming inn. The rooms are roman-tic, the surrounding hillsides frame apicture of pastoral Vermont, andsmall touches everywhere makeguests feel welcome. See p. 147.

• The Captain Lord Mansion (Ken-nebunkport, Maine; & 207/967-3141): You’ll transcend the “wannaB&Bs” at this genuine place, withgrandfather clocks, Chippendalehighboys, and other wonderfulantiques. This uncommonly hand-some mansion is right in the villageof Kennebunkport, perfectly situatedfor relaxing strolls. See p. 280.

• Pomegranate Inn (Portland, Maine;& 800/356-0408 or 207/772-1006):Whimsy and history combine withgood effect at this fine B&B in one ofPortland’s most stately neighbor-hoods. The Italianate mansion isstern on the outside, yet alive on theinside with creative paintings and aneclectic collection of unusualantiques. See p. 291.

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12 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Inn at the Mad River Barn (Waits-

field, Vermont; & 800/631-0466 or802/496-3310): It takes a few min-utes to adapt to the spartan roomsand no-frills accommodations, butyou’ll soon discover that the realaction takes place in the living roomand dining room, where skiers relaxand chat after a day on the slopes andshare heaping helpings at mealtime.Rooms with breakfast are $110. Seep. 147.

• Birchwood Inn (Temple, NewHampshire; & 603/878-3285): Sim-ple comfort is the watchword at thisquiet village inn, once visited byHenry David Thoreau. Rooms withbreakfast are under $90. See p. 210.

• Philbrook Farm Inn (Shelburne,New Hampshire; & 603/466-3831):Come here if you’re looking for acomplete getaway. The inn has beenhosting travelers since the 1850s andknows how to do it right. The farm-house sits on 1,000 acres between theMahoosuc Mountains and theAndroscoggin River, and guests cantake vigorous hikes or relax in leisure.Rooms for two are $150 and under,including breakfast and dinner. Askabout discounts for longer stays. Seep. 258.

• Thayers Inn (Littleton, New Hamp-shire; & 800/634-8179 or 603/444-6469): This old-fashioned downtowninn has 42 eclectic rooms and a lot ofrelaxed charm. Among others, Ulysses

S. Grant and Richard Nixon slepthere. Rooms start at $45 if you’re will-ing to share a bathroom, or at $65 fora private bathroom. See p. 256.

• Franciscan Guest House (Kenne-bunkport, Maine; & 207/967-4865):No daily maid service, cheap panel-ing on the walls, and industrial car-peting. What’s to like? Plenty,including the location (on the lushriverside grounds of a monastery),price (doubles from $65), and a greatLithuanian-style breakfast spread inthe morning. You can walk to DockSquare at Kennebunkport or bike tothe beach. See p. 281.

• Driftwood Inn & Cottages (BaileyIsland, Maine; & 207/833-5461):Where else can you find rooms at theedge of the rocky Maine coast for $80and up? This classic shingled com-pound dates from 1910 and mostrooms have a shared bathroom, butthe views alone are worth that incon-venience. See p. 307.

• Maine Idyll Motor Court (Freeport,Maine; & 207/865-4201): The1932 Maine Idyll Motor Court is aclassic—a cluster of 20 cottages scat-tered about a grove of beech and oaktrees. Each cottage has a tiny porch,wood-burning fireplace (birch logsprovided), TV, modest kitchen facili-ties (no ovens), and timeworn furni-ture. The downside? Highway noise.Cottages are $46 to $90 for two. Seep. 303.

13 The Best Alternative Accommodations• Camping in the Green Mountains

(Vermont): Whether your preferredmode of travel is by foot, car, canoe, or bike, you’ll find plenty of goodcampsites in the verdant hills of Ver-mont. The state parks are wellregarded, with many dating from the

Civilian Conservation Corps days(1930s and early 1940s). The NationalForest Service, aided by the GreenMountain Club, maintains dozens ofbackcountry sites and lean-tos assecluded getaways far from the noiseof everyday life. See chapters 5 and 6.

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• Appalachian Mountain Club huts(New Hampshire): For more than acentury, the AMC has been puttingup weary hikers at its huts high in theWhite Mountains. Today, the clubstill manages eight of them (eachabout a day’s hike apart), providingfilling, family-style meals and sturdybunks stacked three high in rusticbunkrooms. See chapter 8.

• Windjammers (Maine): Maine hasthe East Coast’s largest fleet of wind-jammers, providing adventures onthe high seas throughout the sum-mer. You can explore offshore islands

and inland estuaries, and learn howsailors once made the best of thewind. Accommodations in privatecabins are typically spartan, but you’llspend most of your time on deck lux-uriating in the stunning views. See“Penobscot Bay” in chapter 9.

• Maine Island Trail: About 70remote islands along the Maine coastare open to camping, and from theseremote, salty wildernesses, you’ll seesome of the best sunsets imaginable.See “Enjoying the Great Outdoors”in chapter 9.

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14 The Best Restaurants• Chantecleer (Manchester Center,

Vermont; & 802/362-1616): Swisschef Michel Baumann has been turn-ing out dazzling dinners since 1981,and the kitchen hasn’t gotten stale inthe least. The dining room in an oldbarn is magical, and the waitstaff ishelpful and friendly. It’s a great spotfor those who want top-notch Conti-nental fare, but don’t like the fuss of afancy restaurant. See p. 96.

• Hemingway’s (Killington, Vermont;& 802/422-3886): Killington seemsan unlikely place for serious culinaryadventures, yet Hemingway’s meetsthe loftiest expectations. The menuchanges frequently to ensure thefreshest of ingredients. Be sure toorder the wild mushroom and trufflesoup, if it’s available. See p. 135.

• Jackson House Inn (Woodstock,Vermont; & 800/448-1890 or 802/457-2065): Set in the modern addi-tion to an upscale country inn, thiseatery has meals that are ingeniouslyconceived, deftly prepared, and art-fully arranged. The three-coursemeals cost around $55 per personand are an excellent value. See p. 124.

• Arrows (Ogunquit, Maine; & 207/361-1100): The emphasis at this

elegant spot is on local products—often many ingredients from nearbyorganic vegetable gardens. Prices arenot for the fainthearted (it’s expensiveby New York City standards), but theexperience is top-rate, from the cor-dial service to the silver and linens.Expect New American fare informedby an Asian sensibility. See p. 275.

• White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport,Maine; & 207/967-2321): The set-ting in an ancient, rustic barn is mag-ical. The tables are draped withfloor-length tablecloths, and thechairs have Italian upholstery. Thefood is to die for. Enjoy entrees suchas grilled duckling breast with gingerand sun-dried cherry sauce, or rack oflamb with pecans and homemadebarbecue sauce. See p. 281.

• Fore Street (Portland, Maine; & 207/775-2717): Fore Street is one of NewEngland’s most celebrated restau-rants—listed as one of Gourmet mag-azine’s 100 best restaurants in2001—and the chef has been gettinglots of press elsewhere. His secret?Simplicity, and lots of it. Some of themost memorable meals are preparedover an applewood grill. See p. 293.

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F V E R M O N T, N E W H A M P S H I R E & M A I N E14

15 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Blue Benn Diner (Bennington, Ver-

mont; & 802/442-5140): Thisfavorite, housed in a classic 1945 SilkCity diner, has a barrel ceiling, acresof stainless steel, and a vast menu.Make sure not to overlook the spe-cials scrawled on paper and taped allover the walls. Do leave room for aslice of delicious pie, including black-berry, pumpkin, and chocolatecream. See p. 89.

• Curtis Bar-B-Q (Putney, Vermont;& 802/387-5474): Who gave theSouth and Midwest permission toclaim the best barbecue? This classicroadside open-air joint is next to a gasstation and has a heap of rustic charmand great food. Place your order atthe blue school bus for a slab orsmaller serving, grab a seat, dig in,and enjoy. See p. 110.

• Bove’s (Burlington, Vermont; & 802/864-6651): A Burlington landmarksince 1941, Bove’s is a classic red-sauce-on-spaghetti joint that’s athrowback to a lost era. The red sauceis rich and tangy, and the garlic saucepacks enough garlic to knock youclear out of your booth. See p. 173.

• Lou’s (Hanover, New Hampshire; & 603/643-3321): Huge crowds

flock to Lou’s, just down the blockfrom the Dartmouth campus inHanover, for breakfast on weekends.Fortunately, breakfast is served allday. The sandwiches served on fresh-baked bread are huge and delicious.See p. 218.

• Becky’s (Portland, Maine; & 207/773-7070): Five different kinds ofhome fries on the menu? It’s breakfastnirvana at this local institution on theworking waterfront. It’s a favoredhangout of fishermen, high schoolkids, businessmen, and just abouteveryone else. See p. 296.

• Silly’s (Portland, Maine; & 207/772-0360): Hectic and fun, this tiny,informal, kitschy restaurant serves updelicious finger food, such as pitawraps, hamburgers, and pizza. Themilkshakes alone are worth thedetour. See p. 296.

• Dolphin Chowder House (Harsp-well, Maine; & 207/833-6000): Thefish chowder and lobster stew are rea-sonably priced and delicious at thishidden spot, part of a marina at theend of a dead-end road. Blueberrymuffins come with most meals. See“The Mid-Coast” in chapter 9.

16 The Best Destinations for Serious Shoppers• Manchester (Vermont): The dozens

of outlet stores clustered in this villageinclude the usual high-fashion sus-pects and some notable individualshops. Head to Orvis, the maker ofnoted fly-fishing equipment, for out-door gear and clothing. See “Ben-nington, Manchester & SouthwesternVermont” in chapter 5.

• Portsmouth (New Hampshire):Downtown Portsmouth has a grab bagof small, manageable, eclectic shops,

ranging from funky shoe stores toclassy art galleries. The downtown dis-trict is small enough to browseleisurely on foot, but you’ll find abroad assortment of stuff for sale thatwill appeal to almost any taste. See“The Seacoast” in chapter 7.

• North Conway (New Hampshire):Combine outdoor adventure withserious shopping on a 3-mile stretchof discount outlet stores that makesup most of North Conway. Look for

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Anne Klein, American Tourister,Izod, Polo/Ralph Lauren, DonnaKaran, Reebok/Rockport, and EddieBauer, along with dozens of others.See “North Conway & Environs” inchapter 8.

• Freeport (Maine): L.L.Bean is theanchor store for this thriving town of

outlets, but you’ll also find Patagonia,J. Crew, Dansk, Brooks Brothers,Levi’s, and about 100 others. This isthe most aesthetically pleasing of theseveral outlet centers in northernNew England. See “The Mid-Coast”in chapter 9.

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