The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Though the Heart of the Grand Canyon: THE EMERALD MILE by Kevin Fedarko

7/28/2019 The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Though the Heart of the Grand Canyon: THE EMERALD MILE by Kevin

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scribner

A Dv sm & shut, i.1230 Avu th Ama

nw Yk, nY 10020

cpyght 2013 y Kv Fdak

All ght vd, ludg th ght t pdu th k ptth ay m whatv. F mat add s suday

rght Dpatmt, 1230 Avu th Ama, nw Yk, nY 10020.

Ft s hadv dt May 2013

scribnerad dg a gtd tadmak T Gal Gup, i.,ud ud l y sm & shut, i., th pulh th wk.

F mat aut pal dut ulk puha, pla tat sm &

shut spal sal at 1-866-506-1949 [email protected].

T sm & shut spak buau a g auth t yu lv vt. F mmat t k a vt tat th sm & shut spak buau at

1-866-248-3049 vt u wt at www.mpak.m.

Mauatud th Utd stat Ama

Book design by Ellen R. Sasahara

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

isbn 978-1-4391-5985-9isbn 978-1-4767-3529-0 (k)


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ix

cONTENTS

Lauh 1

Lvatha 7

PART I

The World Beneath the Rims 17

1. Ft ctat 192. T Gad old Ma 293. it th Gat Ukw 40

PART II

Americas Pyramids 51

4. T Kgdm Wat 535. Fldg th cathdal 69

PART III

The Sweet Lines of Desire 89

6. D 917. T Gld Ag Gudg 1028. cytal G 1139. T Dath thEmerald Mile 124

PART IV

The Master of the Emerald Mile 139

10. T Fat 14111. spd 15512. Tud th Wat 171


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x Contents

PART V

The Gathering Storm 179

13. Dlug 181

14. it th bdk 19015. T Muth th Dag 20216. rag th catl Wall 214

PART VI

The Maelstrom 229

17. T Gad cu 231

18. T Wht Dm 24219. Ght bat 25120. T Dg th Tg 268

PART VII

The Speed Run 279

21. T old Ma Hml 281

22. Pt a Wav 29323. T rkg 30624. bath th rv shtg sta 31825. al Wav 32726. T al 335

eplgu: T Lgd thEmerald Mile 342

Akwldgmt 355

nt su 360

nt 364

slt blgaphy 388

idx 401


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Flagsta

Las Vegas

Page

Grand Canyon Village

Needles

Desert View

Lees Ferry

e Confluence

GRAND CANYON

NATIONAL PARK

Lake Powell

GLEN CANYON DAM

Col

oradoR

iver

Lake Mead

U T A H

A R I Z O N A

Gr

eenR

iver

N E V A D A

Sea of Corts

Li

tt

leC

oloradoR

iver

MEXICO

UNITED STATES

Co

lorad

oRiv

er

C

A

L

IFOR

NI

A

0 Kilometers

0 Miles

50

50

N

2013 Jerey L. Ward

U T A H

C OL ORADO

W YOM I NG

NEWM E XI C OA R I Z O N A

NEVADA

CALIFORNIA

M E X I C OSea of Corts

Color

adoRi

ver

Gre

en

Riv

er

P

aci

ficO

c

ean

Area of detail

T HE COL ORADO R I VER AND T HE GRAND CANYON


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1

LAuNcH

Jne 25, 1983

O n ay gv vg umm, ut mt taly lat Ju,th m a mmt jut at th u ha dappad hdth mk, ad jut th dak ha tumld dw thwall, wh th ttm th Gad cay gv tl v t a mmt

mutd ga that l mthg lk a at atmt th th

wld. T th tg tgum tw th lat-ua hat th

day ad th ta-dapd mmty th ght, ad wh t av, th d-k ath a pal kd lght, th pk-ad-ag luh a hly

pd ta. T al th ay lvlt hu, wh th thg

wt, thg m almg t th ul, tha tadg alg th hallw at

th dg th clad rv ad athg th wd th pla. T

ampat g akdly m tha a vtal ml av. T lmtv-

z la that hav pld away m th tad l ad hattd t p

a lw. Ad mt wthg all, th muula, lug, glmm-gldd

ua th gat v tl.but Ju 25, 1983, wa t ay gv vg. nt y a lg ht. Ad wth

twlght w adg, th a th wat tud mag ad ukwal a

th ggt d a gat thttld dwtam t th ght.


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2 Launch

A hu lat, th m appad, adg wth tatly dlat

utl t wa updd all t ull d th th ky tw

th m. T t hug, at ad havy, atg th upp a th l a

lv ad atly malgat glaz.

Dp wth th ay d, th dl tw th apmt wat aw t apt mt th llumat, ad th ttmmt ad

k, th at tata Zat gat ad Vhu ht that ld

th dg th v, w lt hadw. but a uptam at a pla alld

L Fy, wh a ah th l mak th pt wh all v juy

thugh th ay g, th wall wdd ad th v wa al t p

tl t th ky. H, th mam tamd dw th huhd huld

shaump hal ad plld a th wat, thg ah wav, vy ppl

ad ddy, a ptal ada.

out th th mlla, th uh wat wa ad ad pwul, ad

a th ut puhd pat, t dd wth a l. but yu kd

yu dy at jut th ght agl, yu uld dtt a at thum, a kd aal

tm. T quy that vat wa mpl th a t pk up,

ut t gtd umtakaly th ha th am, th wall th ht,

ad dp th lly. T wa th mud a a uaway v, th

u-audl ll-t wat ugg wth ugval t th that th ay.

Jut yd th vak, a ad ld away m th wat, akg

th dta twad Hghway 89, th ly thuway th mt utpt

that Aza. T ua that ad wa tw wth l gavl,

ad aut a hu mdght, t uhd tly wth th appah a

vhl wh dv wa pdg guaddly.

bhd th hadlght lmd th xy lhutt a mall dlvy tuk,

a tapt wh appaa, th pla ad at th hu, wa pplx-g au t md t hald th t u that v uld at th

ya at-hu Fdex pkup, phap, th aval a tak tm-

w wpap. T myty wa lvd ly at th dv whld a

th pakg lt at th dg th wat ad t am la that th tuk wa

twg a mtal tal. cadld th d that tal wa a mall wd

dy.

T at pl wa dttva uptud pw that tmatd a

hap pt, ad a hull wh ttm wa uvd lk th lad a mta.Lahd t h dk w tw t t-t a hw m taght-gad

og ah, ad tukd t th twll at th t th at lay a al

tg a a atty t a pa pwul ahlamp, th kd dv

that jaklght u wh hutg d th dak. T wa jut ugh lght


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Launch 3

t mak ut h la yl-g hull ad ght d guwal. Ad

yu lkd lly, yu uld d th lak-ad-gld lttg mlazd

alg th ght d h w that plld h am:Emerald Mile.

A th tuk mpltd th a t tu, th gu lapd ut ad gaag twad th v whl th dv, wh had w at all g hta-

t, akd th tal matly algd a l u at that w md

at th h.

o th dk th at lay a quad hal a dz lumg v

gud, wh had avd at th y at amp val hu al, ly t

tld y th natal Pak sv ag that th clad wa ld du t

th d. A th gud awk t th ut atvty, thy athd th had

u. T, tutg what wa aut t uld, thy ud thmlv

m th lpg ag ad hutld v t ld a had y lg th tap

that ahd th dy t th tal ad havg h t th wat.

sh ht wth a hap lap ad ht almt a quat th way a th

ddy mg t a tp, g gtly lk a hampag k. Ma-

whl, th mytu t plahd thugh th hallw ad hauld thmlv

ad.T t th gu ptd a mag that md t ut tw d-

t at . i m way, h appaa ptly mdd th dma

th uud v. H ha wa wld ad ut tl, whl h lm

mvd wth a ud ga a h amld a th dkg ad ptd

hml at th a tat th t th at. but th pt, h

appad t hav t at all wth th wat h wa aut t d. H

athg wa v ad maud, ad th xp h a wa mpd

a h thadd th a t th lk, uld h g aud th hadl,ad watd almly h tw mpa t tw th ptlght ad th at-

ty, th ttl thmlv t th at th w ad th t.

Wh vythg wa ady, all th m tud twad th h, wh

th dv wa w tag at h wtwath whl mpltg a lt ut-

dw.

Wh th d had h wath ahd xatly 11:00 p.m., th dv

d,Go!ad wth a hap tak ath, th wld-had atma thut

h t wad wth h am uttthd, a mv that t th hat ha plag twad. At th tp th tk, h appd th wt at th

am tm, a mauv that quad up th a lad jut a thy td th

wat. T h pulld ak wth h t dy whl dvg th all h

t dtly t th t d th twll.


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4 Launch

H t tk t thm kmmg a th ddy, ad th d pad

thm t th ma ut. T, th atma paud a hal d t p-

mt th t t wg dwtam. A th dy mpltd th lkw tu,

th v zd th hull ad huld thm twad th wtly g wall k

that makd th gatway t th Gad cay.Ad jut lk that, thy w g.

Wll, almt g.i th al mmt th at vahd, ath vhl pulld t

th pakg lt at th y ad a d t hadlght wpt th dg

th v. id that vhl at a amly that had dv all th way m nw

Mx th hp makg a atg vaat, ly t la m th

ag that all lauh w dddapptg w, gv th hal

thy had g thugh t u a hghly vtd mmal pmt t

u th ay. At mtg ak t Hghway 89 a lat upp at a ad-

d d, thy w w tug t th tt ad avd jut tm t

ath ght th mytu at a h at ad dappada dt

that thy plad ptg t th ag t thg th mg. i th

matm, thy w lt t pd what had jut tak pla.What th wld w th lw up t, thy wdd, lauhg t

th tth a d th a d mdght wth th ata a gaggl

gud wh kw ptly wll that th clad wa ld? W thy ut

th md?

i a way, y, thy tuly walthugh th m aad that at w al

gagd a ugt m. A gtu pty ad da qut ulk

aythg th ay had v . A qut that wa pd ad dv y th

th aatal atma wh wa w gug h dy twad thmaltm that awatd thm dwtam.

Kt Gua wa a vta th v wld a wll a t mt vvd

ad t haat, a dam wh pa th ay a dp

tha almt ay l, ad wh pw a a dy apta wa umathd

y all ut a hadul atm. T vyag up whh h ad h mpa

had jut makd, hwv, wuld all up all h kll ad m.

btw L Fy ad th Gad Wah cl, th adt ptal at

th dg th Mjav Dt that makd th wt tmu th ay,lay almt th hudd ml v, th wt whh w tuddd wth

th mt td wht wat all nth Ama. Tadg that gautlt

a wat wa a dyy that typally latd at lat tw wk ad uld


10/33

Launch 5

tak a lg a twty-th day. Yt Gua llgal p-mdght lauh th

t th d td wa dgd t mah that tmtal t p.

i h ad h ampl uld t thugh th dak ad kp th

w qua t th ggt wav; thy uld mhw avd apzg

dwg g k apat th k; thy uld tay awak admata th pa y pllg ah th at th a whl ddgg th gad

at ag wh wuld altd t th uauthzd p

th v thy uld ay ut all th tak wthut a gl hth, t wa

pl that th wll clad mght v a a kd hydaul lght

that wuld pth thm all th way m th y t th l wtly that th

duat th tp wuld alatd t wk, v day, ut hours.

At whh pt, vythg uldd adg t pla, th lttl g

dy wth th ght d guwal wuld atapultd t lgd a th at-

t at v pplldy a, y mt, y th ga Gdthugh th

hat th Gad cay.


11/33


12/33

7

LEVIATHAN

Ro U G H L Y thty thuad yad uptam m th Emerald Milept lauh th vg Ju 25, a dta m tml, a ampat add t th ght that mla tth ay ad wh ua wa uhd y a ada that had -

t t th m. itad ug atually alg th dg th clad,

th wall td dtly athwat th v ut, thutg m tha v

hudd t t th a m t udat th dk dp ath thua. T hap that wall wa a mplx paal ah wh am ad

uv had ga aalgu, ad t txtu wa qually ytht. Ulk

th d th ay, wh aad a k y th dlly tatg

ak ad lmh lvg k, th a th aad wa mth ad

awl.

smthg lut ad la ad udaly mpv dd th alaa-

t pt all that t. naly t mll t th tu had

lug a th adth th v y a amy g ad la whhad tatd amlg t am 1960, pug ad hapg wth uh a

ad p that, th ya lat, wh thy w ally thugh, t lkd

a a hghly klld maht had tld th dg a gat lamhll ad

dppd t atly tw th mau t. Atht ad, hwv,


13/33

8 Leviathan

th vwhlmg mp that th mlth lt th md, th lmt

that vwhlmd th ad lkd ut vythg l, wa t h z.

T wall wa m tha tw th hght th statu Lty ad t

lgth xdd that th Seawise Giant, th lgt uptak v ult.

T dm w mplaul that, up g th lu th ttm, wa tmptd t lud that t uld hav vd ly ud

dt wh th mal law gavty ad phy dd t apply. Ad th

t, that phap th tutu dd t lg ully t th wld, wa ut-

td y a dd vt w uldg a t a.

At 11:00 p.m. th httt ght th ya, th t wall appad

t hav vtak y a wtm. oly wh th y had adjutd t th

al dd th agtatd lud val tl a a at dtd mth, t

thuad thm uttg lk tt aud a l dum-vap d-

lght, ah whh wa dg a plat lu-ttd lght upwad, lk th

lum a Gk tmpl, twad th paapt th Gl cay Dam.

Th a lght w mutd alg th at a wdwl tututhat wa ahd at th vy ttm th dam, a uldg wh pl

atd th ga ad ymmty th gat wht wall hd t. nt hgh ad hapd lk a mu h x kkd t t d, Gl

hydlt pw plat wa dvd a gl uv d that mght hav

ald t t hamz wth th a th dam.

Latd th a wt d th plat, ght t av th ua

th v, wa a ham ughly thty t wd ad ty t dp kw a

th ctl rm. stad y a tam t tha wh wkd th

ght-hu ht that tatd at 8:00 a.m., 4:00 p.m., ad mdght, th m

hud a may a v mply dug th day. At ght, hwv, th wuually m tha tw: a atat wh vd aud t pt th may

gaug ad valv wth th pw plat a wll a th xtv twk

tul that a thugh th t th dam tl; ad a pat qud

t tay put hd a lag tl dk quppd wth th tlph ad a tw-

way ad.

T Us buau rlamat, th am th dal gvmt that had

ult th dam ad wa pl t pat, ha lg patula

aut dlg th am t ctl rm pl, a uty pau-t that appl t all natal ctal iatutu alt dmd vul-

al t attak. Adgly, th uau ha datd m t lgk th

mply wh wa duty th ght Ju 25, ad w d t kw

h am. but th maag hag th ctl rm dug th pd


14/33

Leviathan 9

wa Dk Wht. Ad adg t Wht, th mal patt hav-

wa g vd th gavyad ht, h pat wa ttg a

gvmt-ud ha dgd a-taf tll, wth h akl

d ad h t pppd th ua th tl dk.

Fm th vatag, Wht ma wa ptd at Gl v t advg a th al tx th t alty. Aagd hm wa

a ak pal tuddd wth may lght ad wth ad dal that t

lkd a h w mtg th pul tat ytm a lag ty. Tak

t that tumtat, h had h g th pul t jut th dam tl

ut al th pw plat ad th tam l akg ut th ay.

evy apt th ham whh h att l l, t at l, th

uwkg vgla th lght ad th pttv ymmty th lg

walluphld th ppl tl: th afmat that h th pla,

at th hu, huma g w dputaly hag a gad v that

had th ug th suthwt.

F ah mm th ctl rm tam, th gadgty th pal

wa a amla a th k h t at hm. but adg t Wht,

vy tm yu at dw at that dk, t wa mpl t t l a tt

xhlaat ad ua that wd m th awa g th dv

at th lagt mah ath. A p thlgy -mu that t mad th thg that a t vkd a pt

jum-z dutal dgth dg a aat a, th kpt

a c-130 ag jt, th mmad mdul a Apll ktm puy y

mpa.

but ath at wa at wk th t. bau, addt t th dam

z, yu al udtd that ut th th dak th ppt d

that wall lmd th lgt v th plat, a dy wat

that xtdd 186 ml up th at d th clad ad tuhd 1,960ml hlg tha th Pa atl m sattl t sa Dg

ad wh pdu vlum, mwh x ll gall, wa

atly pg agat th uptam ak th dam.

Tat wa a awul lt wat t hldg ak. Wat wh t

mvg dwhll had m pw tha uld mag. A Wht

wll kw, th uy that wat wa apal ulahg uld pudly

uttlg, pally yu dwlld th da t dply.

but th wa al what mad th dam tuly awm.

Th wa uh thg a twlght d th ctl rm th Glcay Dam vlvt hu wh th ad th wall w athd a


15/33

10 Leviathan

pah-ld glw ad th pat wa al t hav a gh taqullty.

but ay gv vg, whth t wa th hght th umm lt

th dad wt, th wa mthg almt a gatyg, phap v

m . bau whv wa ttg at th dk t th tl pal

at that mmt gt t play Gd.T tual uually kkd jut 6:00 p.m., wh a all avd m

th Wt Aa Pw Admtat dpath, a ma ttg 350 ml

t th that Mt, clad. T gald th tat th v-

g ug, th mmt wh mt th twty mll ppl a aa

tthg m at nw Mx t suth cala w ppag

t tu hm m wk, tu th lght, phat th v, ad t

dw t wath th vg w. T dpath Mt wa pl

ug that th lad th pw gd wuld mt th pkg dmad,

ad h atpatd th vg uh y dg Wht ma t tat allg up

ltty.

T pat pdd y puhg a lak utt that atvatd a hgh-

pu lu pump that ht hgh-vty l t th thut ag d

th dam ght gat. i yu w tadg th th pw

plat, th wuld gt a a lw wh. Fv d lat, th gat wuld

p th a Gl ptkgat tl tu that a thughth wall th dam ad wh tak w ptd m tha v hudd

t av th pw plat th v d th wall. At th pt, th

ud th pump mt wuld gv way t a a wat.

T dp wa mu, ad at th a th dam, th lum

wat d wa t t a hztal tam, hald t th pw

plat, ad latd agat a t wkt gat attahd t th plat

155,500-hpw tu. T uh ath th a th wkt gat

thw tqu t th attl-tak-z tu, whh pu at ad atutl t wa whlg at tw ad a hal vlut p d.

extdg vtally m th tp th tu wa a hat td t a

gat that hud a x-hudd-t t wh pmt wa ld wth

ty-ght tl pl that utd a ltmagt. Wh th t wa

ully gagd, th pg tl t atd a magt ux uft t

gat 125,000 klwatt, ugh ltty t pw ughly hudd

thuad hm ad u.

T ut ud m th tp th gat t a ak tam,whh puhd th ltty t a t tam al that a up

t th wthg yad th m. Fm th, th l mahd a th

dt twad th t th suthwtt Phx ad u ad dz

mall tw attd aud th Fu c g, wh, hudd


16/33

Leviathan 11

ml away, th gy that had lkd d th v wa w lad t

vlzat: zappg z mwav d, adatg Pt Jg

mag th tlv, lghtg up th ty-t-tall wy g

Fmt stt La Vga.

nthg aut ay th wa t uuual. idd, th p wa ut that mt ppl had lttl appat that, phap m tha ay-

thg l, th wa th gatv pak that paatd th md wld m

th Dak Ag. but th ma at th tl dk, th wa thg aual aut

akg that dyam t mt, hag th a, ad wathg th gaug

ad dal gtg th ampag a th ut ht m th ttm th

gg ad pd t th dtat t ad tw. id Gl ptk

ad tu ad gat, th v wa ltally g a mthg

lwat qukg t ltty. T pma had a kd mag,

ad vy mm th ctl rm tam, th hag wa t avd.

expt that, th patula ght, th hag had plad y m-

thg la h th am ha that wa aut t dd Kt

Gua ad h w dp d th Gad cay. bau Ju 25, Wht

ad h llagu w twty-th day t a that had pdt

th hty hydlt dam. Ad y w, vy gl th m

had gtt what mal wa.

Th mgy thy w tg had t mt almt a yaal ad m ght thuad ml t th wt th Aza dt, th

a dg th Pa oa. T, ot th pvu ya, a mav

el n vt had tggd a amt amal that had gv

th t th lagt pg u wth th clad rv a twty-

v ya. T lat tm ay had wtd a u mpaal z, thdam had t v ult ytwhh hlpd t xpla why th twk

ag pl tllg th lagt v th suthwt had

aught at-td.

T dtal hw thg had g th al w tll u, ad th

ull ptu what had tak pla wuld t mg mth. but th

upht wa that y aly Ju, Gl wa alady hldg ak th u m

108,000 qua ml, a g th z Plad, ad vy addtal a-

t dwat that pud t th upp d Lak Pwll, th vhd th dam, wa avg at tha t uld dad thugh th dam.

Ftuatly, Gl wa quppd wth a mgy ypa dgd jut

uh a vt. o ah d th dam, a mav pllway tul had

d thugh 675 t navaj adt ad ld wth thty-x h


17/33

12 Leviathan

t. i thy, th tw mt w apal halg a md

w m tha 200,000 ,* atly halg that wat aud th dam

dumpg t ak t th v. T huld hav ugh t a

whatv th clad mght a t thw at Gl. T wa jut hth.

T tul had v put thugh a ull- tt dv, ad aly Ju,mthg had g tly wg.

Dp d th pllway, a vu hk wav had ud away

th t lg ad xpd th t adt wall t th ull th

v. A a ult, wat ag ut th muth th tul wa lad wth

d that ludd huk t, p a, ad uld th z

gat. i t, th clad had gu t dmatl th pllway y

tag th gut t p.

Tughut th mth Ju, th gal vy p wh wkd at th

dam wa t ul a muh th wat th v a pl dwtam

t th ay. that d, thy had ug th pw plat tp

wk, maxg ut th tu ad th gat ad dumpg th xta

ltty t th gd at aga at. Ty w al dlg v ut-

lt, a t u tl tu ug thugh th at pt th dam,

whh ypad th pw plat ad latd wat dtly t th clad

at 120 ml p hu. Ty w v hag th tk pllway, d-g a muh wat a thy dad thugh th tul ad kpg th g

d. T wa ptaula ad hllg. Yu uld ha th thud

th dhag m th paapt, ad yu walkd ut twad th hllw-jt

valv th at d th pw plat, yu uld atually l th vat

thugh th l yu h.

Ad yt, that wa ugh.

A th u tud ag dw m th tp th uth rk-

, a th clad pdmt, thugh th adlad Utah ad t thupp ttal Lak Pwll vat uh, th ua th v

hd upwad wth ah pag hu. Ft t ht th paapt, th

wat wuld vwhlm th tl gat that guadd th pllway, th plum-

mt ak t th ppld tul ad um t xavat th adt.

At th vy lat, th wuld t dadul damag th gat ad th tu-

l whl g th g ay alty t tl th wat thy w

lag dwtam. i t, thy wuld l dm v th v. Yt

that wa ly th third-wt-a a.

* Fld a maud u t p d, al kw a , a dyam alat thvlum ad that tad y multplyg th avag pd th ut y th v t.


18/33

Leviathan 13

i luk wa ug agat thm, th hydaul lat that had alady av-

agd th tul t mght ut latally thugh th adt wall ad

at a ah jut dwtam m th t th dam. ev th, th dam-

ag uld paly tad, alt at tmdu t t th rlama-

t ad putat. T lat plty, hwv, wa thg ht apalypt.

i thg tuly wt t hll, th v uld, thy, talh a -

t tw th damagd pllway ad th ttm th v hd

th dam, tggg a utlld la. T wuld d th tt

Lak Pwll dw th lgth th Gad cay, a Lak Mad, ad

v th lp Hv Dam. Fm th, th ug wuld ulldz a wt-

Aza, wh t wuld udat th tw Laughl, ndl, Pak,

ad Yuma, alg wth almt vy dam ad v dv tutu alg th

lw clad. A a al ga t, muh that wat wuld paly wd

up takg ut th atutu t cala impal Vally, th h-

t agultual adakt th uty, dpg t th sa

ct.

Dug th t wk Ju, th g had dmd th tmal -

a a aud. but y th d th mth, at rlamat uld

ay wth taty what th v wuld wuld t d. H, th ctlrm tam pmay th ght Ju 25 w th u ad

a-ahg qu what wa happg at th dam tl. Althugh

thy w awa that th tt thy w dg dwtam had jakd

th clad t a lvl that hadt a quat tuy, thy had

klg th mmt th wa aug dp d th Gad cay.

At that vy mmt, m tha tw hudd at ad aly tht

hudd ppl wh had lt m L Fy p t th v lu w

attd up ad dw th 277-ml d wth th ay. T ghad da that val th at had dtyd, that dz

ppl had dumpd t th ut, that hlpt had t

t u th uvv, m whm had wahd a a a t ml

dwtam ty-dg wat. Ad, udtadaly, th maag th

dam ddt hav th att lu that a hu mdght, a t at-

m had tagd a llgal lauh a lttl wd dy ut L Fy ad

w w ag taght twad th wt th aag.

Althugh th dam pat mypa wa th malu wllul, thga udd th tagt ad mt ug apt th

dama aut t uld. F althugh th v ad th ay w ud


19/33

14 Leviathan

tgth y glgy, y gvmt vght, ad mt mptat y th

thad th clad tl, thy w atually tw paat wld. idd,

Gl hulkg d ptd th takt dv th Am-

a ladap, a dl that md t dlat th t tw tw

dt pul. Ad t ay that th tz th val dma dd talway y t y wa a t a udtatmt, au ah ptd

th atth th th dpt valu.

th g ad th tha wh lgd t th wld th dam,

Gl wa dad mlth ut, ath, a lvg ad athg thg, a a-

tu that puld wth gy ad dyamm. Phap v m mptat, th

dam wa al a tumphat apt huma guty, th ulmat

a vl-gg lag that had t t th gat

aal at Mptama ad cha, th ht lk a ld aw thugh

th Mddl Ag, th raa, ad th idutal rvlut t ah t

zth h th u-hd watlad th Ama suthwt. Gl

mdd th glttg pat ad th tau dv th Ama

tuya pt that th txt had pl hag th

atm ad puttg m th m. A mpv a th th amplh-

mt may hav , thg xlld th lty tamg th

haht dt ath t a vat gad. i th md t gad t maag, Gl afmd vythg that wa ght aut Ama.

Kt Gua ad th v lk wh hatd th wld th ay,

hwv, th dam wa a agat atu. Tak t Gl ad a ht

mla rlamat pjt alg th clad, th gatt v

th Wt, had dud t lttl m tha a gat plumg ytm,

a twk pp ad aut ad athmt tu wh h pup lay

th duu gal gg gl u t Phx, wmmg pl t

u, ad a-dtd hppg mall t Vga. A magt watwayhad ad th alta a thlgy that ald ppl t pp

wthut lmt, wthut ala, wthut ay t t th vmt

whh thy lvdad th p, td th dlu that th dt had

qud. but th y th v lk, v that wat th al t.

th atm ad th gud, th utamd clad mdd a ut

valu that a a dp tha th lat m pg. ch

amg thm g th da that thg a m mpllg dtllat

atu auty tha a -wg v. i th y, Gl wa a ttamtt t vythg that wa ght wth Ama ut vythg that wa wg

wth t. Ad t wa h that th llt advtu up whh thEmerald Mile

had jut makd ad th plty mthg m pvatv tha

mply ttg a pd d.


20/33

Leviathan 15

o t ua, tagg a ladt a thugh th Gad cay wa

lttl m tha a ld at mh. but t dut uh a a atp a u-

away d td, ad t d at a mmt wh a hatd hydlt dam wa

plth thg lvatd th dav, at lat Gua md, t m-

thg m tha jut a tut. hm, t d a --a-ltm ha tpatpat, th mt val way magal, wth th atal majty

th clad. A at that wa a ad kl, t u, ut that al td

a a xp da agat t ly th dal whh th dam td

ut th aga havg ult th thg th t pla.

Had Gl g ad tha kw th pd u, thy wuld

hav uly lt thmlv jutd dmg th t a dt, thy

g th xtt t whh th tw dm, th wld th v ad

th wld th dam, w udamtally ppd. i at, t wa paly

a t ay that th d th dvd had aythg at all m-

m. but th vg Ju 25, mm th amp w xtaly

utd y at lat tuth.

i t w way, ah gup wa tg th uttlg at that th

ght, at th hu, dpt all th gg ad th thlgy, dpt

th lu th dam tl, th clad ad th ay that tad t

w a wld, a ugval, ad a mytu a th day thy w tdvd.


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By far the most sublime

of all earthly spectacles . . .

the sublimest thing on Earth.

ClarenCe Dutton


22/33

PART I

The World Beneath the Rims

T Gad cay at th wap ovlk, y Wllam Hy Hlm, 1882.


23/33


24/33

19

1

First Contact

It is a lovely and terrible wilderness, such a wilderness as Christ and

the prophets went out into; harshly and beautifully colored, broken

and worn until its bones are exposed . . . and in hidden corners and

pockets under its cliffs the sudden poetry of springs.

WallaCe Stegner

I n th wt 1540, jut t ya at H ct hadmahd t th hat Mx ad ltd th h th Azt,a yug spah lma amd Fa Vquz d cad wagv upm mmad th lagt xpdt qut th utmagtly ptal hty th nw Wld. Wh cad m-

pay mutd th tal qua th tw cmptla a suday

mg lat Fuay, th lum hd hm ludd 230 hm

utd m th lty nw spa, xty-tw havly amd t ld,

ad v a. Althugh th lad th glttg amly w all spa-

ad, th ak w al lvd y a mattg th ataltv

Ptugu, tw itala, a Fhma, a st, ad a ugl m Gmay,

plu m tha a thuad laxala ida, wh pmay dut vlvdtdg t th t hudd h, mul, ad attl that hud d th

vat lud dut that th wak. o wt cmptla dd

thm a th mt llat mpay v lltd th id t g ah

w lad.


25/33

20 T H E E M E R A L D M I L E

cad mltay t wa ld y Mlh Daz, a tpd hma

ad ut wh wa dtd wth a w mth t m th t eupa

t th muth th clad rv wh t td th Gul cal-

aad wh wa atd, jut a ht tm that, t u a ul ad ak-

h dath. (Whl attmptg hak t u h la thugh a dg thatwa attakg h hp, h kwd h g ad ladd th ak h

w wap.)

T v that had daw th m ut Mx wa cla, a mplx

v t that wa umd t l a t th th ad wh tau w

ad t dy l. i th t that had pddld t cad w tu,

th wall cla pala w utd wth mald, th d w tud-

dd wth apph, ad th hadl th d w wught m th pu-

t tuqu. T ul cla w ad t up gld plat ad quh

th tht m gld glt, ad wam ght thy lay ath t

wh ah w td wth ty ll hammd lv. but mt

tatalzg all w th pala tm. rh tha th vault th ia

th Azt, thy w umd t tud wth gld ad lv, mald

ad pal, ad tt hawl t a dpth t.

Ad m th h, th mt valual at cad mpay

w th am, whh w ulk aythg that pat thwld. i addt t th uual atmt wd ad ma ad pk ad

hald, th wapy ludd t w, vt haquu,

ad a hadul mall a a whl. Alg wth th mplmt

waa, vy ld cad lum ad a mtal mag hml

zg m pt cla ald tau h w. ev a ty p

that had wuld th makg a ma tu, th thg that wuld hag

th dt h l l damatally tha th acequiasth gat

aal that had ught m Aaa t spa y th Ma altth hap ad w a v y pug t t a ma ld.

Tat ppt wa uft t pull cad m thugh th ad pla

sa ad a th d t what w Aza, pat th lv-

tuddd hll uudg th utu tw mt, th up t th

hghlad th Mgll rm, thugh what wuld lat m th Apah

natal Ft. by th mddl that t umm, hwv, th atay that

pud thm had gu t ak apat th hadd ua th akd

dt that l th wt dg nw Mx. it wa th, l tha tyml uthwt th pt-day ty Gallup, that th xpl tumld

up Hwkuh, a pul th Zu, wh ad autmt cad

mmdatly ppad t tm th l that h wa aut t pllag th t

cla gat t.


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First Contact 21

Dpt dg thmlv hplly utmathd y th spaad

h ad gu, th Zu lauhd a u utattak wth lu

ad aw that ught thm almt t th hv th spah mut,

wh thy w al t kk th upm mmad l wth a wll-

amd k. Wh h gad u, cad wa gv th wthat Gd had gatd thm a glu vty th attl, th t mal

mltay ut tw eupa ad atv wth th utu t-

ty th Utd stat. H wa al md that th Zu thu

hld pu mtal gmt. Hwkuh tkpl walth, mt

whh wa kpt mpl lay pt, td pmaly dd ad

pt a.

T mmt makd th tat a uplaat awakg whh c-

ad wa d t gappl wth th dhatg plty that cla mght

thg m tha a autul llu, a hma th dt. b u-

umg t th tuth, hwv, h ptd watg th adg w

hp y dg val mall aa pat t ak m th

ma lum ad dut xplaty ay th ha that thm

mght tuml up mthg valu.

o th tam, a quad twlv m ld y a tpd yug ap-

ta amd D Gaa Lpz d cda, wa dpathd m Hwkuhad dd t d dp t what a w th navaj ad Hp vat

t ha dw um a gat v that wa ad t l mwh t

th thwt ad whh mght t wth th am v wh muth th

lukl Mlh Daz had al d.

A sptm plld t ot, cda ad h mpa mad

th way t th Hp vllag uaya, th hadd thugh a t p

ad jup t utl, t th up, th gud auptly gav way, ad thy

ud thmlv gazg a what appad t a lad a a.H thy td a v that utu vt t th makal

th wld wuld day dm m wdu tha th mythal h

cla.

Phap t wth paug a mmt t akwldg, m th tadpt eup xplat ad qut th nw Wld, jut hw aly th

mg t tll wa. i th autum 1540, th wa t a gl eupattlmtt alg ay atl aywh wth th t

what wuld vtually m th Utd stat. it wuld xty-v ya

th t gup eglh ttl ga attlg tavat at Jam-

tw, ad ath tht ya at that th Plgm ghtd th l


27/33


cap cd m th dk thMayfower. Gg Wahgt wuld t

almt tw m tu, ad th tt pat a thd wuld

lp pat Lw ad clak v tatd th gat juy up th M-

u rv ytm. Yt th td cda ad h m, th k a

pdgu ham that wa dtd t mg a phap th mt lad-ap atu a at that dd t yt xt. o all th atual wd

Amath watall Ymt, th gy Yllwt, th gat t

nth calath wa th vy t t dvd, althugh dis-

coverywa hadly th ght wd.

by th tm cda avd, muh th ta d that ay had t

ly tavd ad xpld ut al hatd, t y th uv

wav Aaaz, th at th md Hp, th lat y th Hualapa,

th Paut, th Havaupa, ad hal a dz th t. T u t

vllag w dw th, wh th gaa had tkd wth ad

aal had hald wat a ld hudd ya utl, mtm

dug th twlth tuy, th ttm th ay wa mytuly aa-

dd. T w t ad lgd tpla wh hama had w-

hppd, wh yug m had dutd v qut, ad wh th pt

th dad w ad t v t th atl. nvthl, cda

aval makd a ual pt th hty th ladap.At that mmt, th tt m whh th xpl hald wa at

a pula ad, wth t ttg th wat th raa ad

th th tll mly platd th Mddl Ag. T ptg p,

val thlg that wuld d th mt t hap ad tam th utu,

had aly gu huldg ad th mply lau u py-

g llutatd maupt y had. Jha Kpl, s Fa ba, ad

Gall had t yt . Mat pjt map had t yt

vtd; mplx um w tll awatg dvy. T wdgeographyadgeologyhad t v addd t th eglh laguag. Ad yt, th t

tm th m ht that wuld k th a th wld w alady

g lt.

Fm a th-ty tw wth th wall th ty Fauug, th

gat Plh atm nlau cpu wa ppag t pulh On the

Revolutions o the Celestial Spheres, h tat ptg th adal t that

eath wa t th t th uv, whh wuld hald th aval

th t vlut. i rm, blga, ad V, th itala plymathLad da V had tad ut th ptual ppl hd gl-

pa dg, mpaatv aatmy, plat tt, aaut, ad th -

ud mha. Ad ddly, althugh spa wa tll a tghld

lgu thdxyad thu ly tat t th w dath


28/33

First Contact 23

uty that had gv th t cad ad cda td at th -

t th dvlpmt ual pt, au uty had a

gat mmad wat. it wa th ia Pula that th rma

had d m th mt mpv wk ahd dam. H wa wh

th Mulm had lad dw th udat v-dv gat, adwh chta g w w g th pt hydaul pw.

i ht, spa wa th dd th thlg that wuld vtually -

vg t ha th mt udld ut pttally uul all

atu, a wld v.

Tu th a cda aval at th dg th ay d th t

pm a wld that wa t ly uld ut al tlld y ma. Ad

w, h wh th p ad th jup gav way t th u-ld ap-

k, that v wa lldg agat th mt mplaal xp

atu d t gad hma ladap wh ug-

gtd that uh a t wa phap l agat, ad l wth th

pttal utdd qu, tha a hma thkg that t wa a

mpl matt t u h la thugh a dg that wa ptg h hp.

Ya lat wh Pd d catada, th hl th cadxpdt, t dw th ty th t ut, h d t a gldtal cda at a h ad h m pd t th ay th t

tm. but th m had aythg at all mm wth th t mll

vt wh wuld lat llw th ttp, t a aal gu that

t thm ad a wdthat thy mply td, td l, th

ath athd away y th v that had lad at th t.

Althugh w kw ply wh th dt tk pla, t

almt ta that t ud alg a t th suth rm that kwtday a Dt Vw. T pmty th mt damat all

vatag pt t th aya pla wh t mplt a gat a, d-

g m th at t th th a wp wh vw atg that th

natal Pak sv wuld lat t a tall t wathtw pul

jymt.

smwh l t th pt, cda ad h m ud thmlv

lkg ut at a mat alld th Palad th Dt, a damat t

add l a that m th ay uthat ampat. Fm tha th Palad, a h ad pp dd lk a udly

hw t ta twad a glttg lv ad g that wd

thugh th ttm a lw. o th ppt d that tam, a mathg

t l ad ldg ad t th nth rm. Ad yawg tw th


29/33


tw m tth a vd a wd ad dp a a ladlkd a, a mp

tgthd t ly y th hmmg lu th a tl ut al y

th amada lud that ud pat at y lvl, atg hadw ath th

ll that ppl ad da amd th hattd t that l hpwkd

lw.Gazg dw twad that th tkl wat wdg uuly tw

th utt ad ma g m th t th gg, cda d at

th lam h Hp gud, wh aud hm that th wa m tam,

ut a mghty dt v wh wdth maud hal a lagu aval

hudd yad. cta thy w xaggatg, th spah apta dmd

th pumt a aud, judgd t tu adth t m tha

ght t, ad dd h paty t g mvg wt alg th m ah

a pmg pla t dd t th k.

T day lat, thy avd at a ak th apmt wh cda

dtd capta Pal d Mlga ad tw th mlt t ld t

aml dw t hav a lk. May hu lat, thy tud wth w that

th gat ay wa a m tahu tha th vw m th tp had ld

thm t lv. i at, Mlga ptd, thy had ptatd ly a at

th way dw uth dt am mplalthugh thy had

g a ugh t m that th Hp had t vtatd th z thv. but what d th aa paty v m w th mtu

dm th ta ladap hug that v t m atu

had mad thm l hplly dmhd. llutat th pt, Mlga

ptd t a gl t lum. Fm th m, t appad t ughly th

hght a ma, dd t t? but . i at, t had pvd tall tha th gat

tw svll, th ly that 344 t m th catdal d sata Maa

d la sd, th lagt athdal th wld ad, tllgly, a wg pt

a spaad that a. Ty mut hav lt that thy had lt thag tly.

i th a ltal ad a yml , th wa tly tu. Wthut a -

gl amla jt t mpat m ala ma ttg ath th

had a t; a x pullg a plw thugh a ldt wa mpl th

spaad t gaug th mmty th dlvty. Ty had pt

that thy w tag t a ay wh vlum xdd a thuad u

ml, a dta ad dpth that dwad aythg thy ay th eupa

had v utd. Ty had t that, muh t lgth, th tpad th ttm th ay w paatd y m tha a vtal ml

k, whh mat that t had mhw pl t lt up vy pak

th Py ad dp thm atly t that xpa, ah muta wuld

aly t d th ttm ad t a gl ummt wuld p av th m.


30/33

First Contact 25

Ty al had way athmg that, m t at ah t t wt

tmu, th ay a 277 ml, agualy th lgt ay ath. n

dd thy mphd that th pa tw th suth rm ad th nth rm

avagd ughly t ml, that th ay x hudd ay ad tutay

ay uld puh that wdth ak t t, twty, v thty ml. Fally,thy w ual t gap appat that th v whh th Hp pk

vd a th pm daag hal th t suthwt, a watway

that gathd tgth all th u a g lag tha spa ad Ptugal

md.

T alty t am thmlv lat t th tupdu talau,

hwv, wa t mply patal ut al xtdd t a uth dm, th

alm tm. Ad h, thy w tuly ut th dpth. Ty had da,

xampl, that th vy k ath th t, a hy-ld lmt

kw a th Kaa, wa ld tha th ldt thg thy kw . old tha

th ala that wa ult up th lp Vata Hll rm th h

Jualm wh th Ppht Muhammad had tatd h at t hav.

old tha th tmpl at G th walld t suma

ld tha ay ty th wld, at, v th lad tl. s ld that th

Kaa atually pdatd t ly th tt whh thy td ut al

th a thy had pt aly th mth alg a t gt th, a wlla all th t th tt ad all th a tw thm. Ad a

athg a all that may hav md, what wuld hav ught thm t

th k aw wa that th tpmt lay k wat ally vy ld at all

mpa wth th ag what wa lt th tmulu hadw lw.

Ty uld that th wall th ay md a umlg taa,

ut thy had way kwg that ah th ta wa mpd

k that had dptd beoreth tp av ad aterth tp lwa

vtal atat tm that had lad dw hztal tata.*T mat, amg th thg, that cda ad h m had ltd at

that mmt t a dt, thy wuld hav td t ly a m-

dal phyal hallg ut al a pudly tmpal . i t, th a-

y vd a a kd l-pplld tm mah, a ttal hmt

whh ah tp thy tk wuld hav huld thm t a dp ad m

dtat pt th pat.

T pg t th wll tm wuld t hav um.

Dpdg wh thy w, thy mght hav pad thugh t ml-

* T t a vlutay da t u, ut t wuld hav t cda ad h m. Ath129 ya wuld pa nhla st, th a cphag gldmth, amd tht th Ppl suppt, th dg pt th mgg glgy.


31/33


l ya a gl td, whl th xt dz pa may ly hav tak

thm thugh a w mlla. but gadl, vy tp th juy

wuld hav atapultd thm akwad thugh t ag ad ph a thy

dppd dp ad dp t a wld wh utt had lad dw

lg aythg huma had v tak pla. Ad a thy ptatd ahtatumthugh th hadd dlta dad v, th vahd

a, th ptd du atdluva dtthy uld hav alatd

th pg y tg ah uv hmak th l d that

thy pad.

Pat th , th ptl, ad th ampha. Pat th t d plat,

th t tl, th t hak. Pat th pd, th p, ad th t-

pd, th pat th t atu v t hav lt th a ad vtud th

up th lad. nt lg at that, thy wuld pa th pt wh th t

ttal platth m ad wt ad had gu t lz th

lad. by th pt, thyd d a alm that had amd wh th lad

wa mpty ad a that all t v a v a k, uadd y

muh a a gl g la.

Wh yu gt dw that dp, th k d ha g gap, wthut

v alzg t, th spaad wuld hav ud thmlv kppg v

m mptat pg mvmt th pagat lgy: th t am-platd h, th t vtat, th t al . At aud th pt, t,

thg wuld g t gw qut a d ad la ad, vtually, t

phyla th taxm gum l uvly wkd ut.

Ft t g wuld th gatpd, llwd wtly y th pg ad

th hdm. Ad y th tm cda ad h m had ahd th

lay mth, ta-ld adt w kw a th apat, th a

ll ad th ahpd wuld al g, llwd that y

tltth hh-a-hapd atu that had pd thugh thhallw lt Palz a wth y mad alt, th alt v

ytm ath ad a lyal mg lgy ad glgy, a lvg m

k.

smwh lw th lat th tlt, cda mpay wuld hav

tppd a a al thhld ad td t th tllt ad mt lt

ph allth tm vythg that pdd vl, multlld l. T

wa a wld that had ppulatd y whld ha th alt ya-

ata, aa atu wh hmty had ald htly at thut th plat had gu t l ad l tal mmt pat

uldd amd a atmph dvd a gl mlul xyg.

evtually, thy wuld hav al t g ath. by th pt, thyd

tadg at th dg th v tl, a kgdm walld y lgat la-


32/33

First Contact 27

t Vhu ht, k that had mpd ad dmd y hat

ad pu t that th mal d th t had ytallzd

ad mtamphd t mthg ual ad thwldly. T wa t

wh ldl xtdd uth ak tha th huma md uld ply

vvt mll tu t th pat, aly hal th l pa th plat ad -tth th ag th uv tl. A t d ad

lak that a ma lt, up g t th t tm, that t plhd ua

mut uly mak m kd ad. ctaly th k th ua

th ath md t gltt dakly wth th daw lght at.

Had cda ad h m udd mpltg th dyy, thy

wuld hav ud thmlv updd a dw d th plag -

tu dp tm that th t t vythg that wa amla

ad mtg wuld hav dppd away lk a vd umlal d. T

dma wa ld ad dp, y a, tha aythg thy uld v ptd t

maga dm tm ad pa wh Gd hml md t a

dludd ad laughal da ad, th am tat, l ad m gad

tha th tth d w had.

Eltg t g th dt, cda ad h m tud th jualg th suth rm, lwly makg th way wt. Dug th tt pat th llwg wk, thy w add ampl tm t a th

thm all t gly. T wa l vywh, ad a ah day uldd,

th lag lght lat autum wuld hav put th uta th ay

thugh a ag mplx ad allug hag.

T hw ga aly ah mg, a th mpay ppad t um

t juy. Jut daw, th platau tthg yd th m tk

a pal pk lut, whl th upp ad l appad t atg alak dak that lwly mpd a th lght pud v th dg ad

quzd ght ut th ay. Lat th at, a th lght tud at,

th ham wa ggd wth a hah gla that tad y ad mad tmpl

th. T, at ut, th upp tata w aga hammd t a ml-

t gld that gadually ld t lavd dug th twlt mut th

lg hadw tud, th mplt a magt ug that pad

th t vual ptum, all th amd ad uamd hu ad.

i thy w mvd y uh wd, th p wa v dd, ad ay a, atht w lvat t th jt th qut. F cda

wa hag at a had gad walth, ad th ay md t ta

t. T w pu mtal gm t plud th am h

kg, amlad tat t z, hatat t lav ad vt.


33/33


T mply dtat v d gat aty taptat, ad th

Hp w t lvd, th ly mal wth xavatg wa alt. A th

gldd t cla, thy w wh t .

Ad , at th d th wk, cda dd th ly thg that mad

m h pptv. H ptd h quad th dt m whh thyhad m ad ld thm ak twad th ma dy th xpdtwhh

wt t pd th xt tw ya a ah that tk thm a th xa

Pahadl, thugh oklahma, ad dp t th pla tal Kaa. it

wa th lgt ad mt aduu mah dutd y ay gup qu-

tad th xtth tuy, ad wh thy ally tud t Mx

dga th pg 1542, thy ught ak, th pag th ltt

ad pt, aut may gula ut, ludg th t pa

dg, th t jakat, th t mtg wth th t th Gat Pla,

ad th t ual. but thy had ald t d aythg that thy dmd t

valu.

T vllag that pv mad paul, th xpdt h-

l wt th uty uudg th gat ay, thy w v

vtd aga, ay attmpt mad t d th ppl that dt. it

wa a th dg lmt th t ttth gatt ttamt

ath t th paag tm ad t th pw wathad ddvl.

M tha th hudd ya wuld pa th mt mptat

cad u tud, l tha a ylk wh maud y th

al Gad cay tm. but v , th aval th t spaad

makd a udamtal tug pt, a tat th gat whl. bau t

wa th hld cda, t th natv Ama, wh wuld vtu-

ally m ak t dy th ay uda ad atalg t wd, t

map ut t gd l wth tat ad a uvy ha, ad t lay dw thudat that wuld vtually al thm t ha th pw th

v tl.

Documents

The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Though the Heart of the Grand Canyon: THE EMERALD MILE by Kevin Fedarko