The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of hair colour and lightener Chapter 16, Colouring

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ , 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ , 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013

Types of hair colour and lightener

Chapter 16, Colouring hair

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ , 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013

During the session you will:

• Identify how natural and artificial colour pigments can be altered.

• Explore the different types of artificial hair colour.• Explain where the colours work on the hair and

investigate the features & benefits of each artificial hair colour.

• Identify the terms ‘tone’ and ’depth’. • Explore the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide.• Investigate how a lightening products works on the

hair. Complete Word search


Types of artificial hair colour

• Hair colour can be changed by the addition of artificial pigments: colouring

• Hair colour can be changed by the removal of natural pigments: lightening/bleaching


Types of artificial hair colour (cont.)

Type EffectTemporary Adds pigment on a temporary

basisSemi-permanent Adds pigment that lasts several

washesQuasi-permanent Adds pigment that fades over

timePermanent Adds pigment that is permanentBleach /high-lift colour

Removes natural pigments permanently

Colour stripper Removes artificial pigments

Refer to textbook, Chapter 16, pages 11–12


Temporary colours

Have large molecules that sit on the outside of the hair between the scales of the cuticle Positives

available in different forms, e.g. mousse, gel good for first time colouring easily removed can be used to produce subtle effects will not damage the hair last only one wash

Refer to textbook, Chapter 13, pages 12–13


Temporary colours (cont.)

NegativesX Only last for one washX Cannot lighten the hair X May not give an even coverage XCan be difficult to remove on porous/damaged hair X Cannot achieve a specific target shade


Features and benefits

All products we use will have features and benefits

Features are things about the product:•the types it is available in – mousse, gel, box, etc.•the range (colours, shades, etc.)•what it can be used for

Benefits are things about what it will do for the client (why they should have the product or service):•Why this colour will fulfil the client’s needs•Improve his/her appearance•Easy to apply and remove, etc.

Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 10– 11


Temporary colours

Research the features and benefits of temporary colours and fill in the boxes

Features Benefits

Complete Activity 2 Temporary colours


Semi-permanent colours

Have smaller molecules that lodge between the scales of the cuticle and on the outer cortex.Positives available in different forms, e.g. mousse, gel good for first time colouring give better results than temporary colours will enhance the client’s natural will not damage the hair last for up to six or eight one washes

Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 11–13


Semi-permanent colours (cont.)

NegativesXCannot lighten the hair X May not give an even coverage X Can be difficult to remove on porous/damaged hair X Cannot achieve a specific target shadeXWill not cover white/grey hair


Semi-permanent colours (cont.)

Research the features and benefits of temporary colours and fill in the boxes.

Features Benefits

Complete Activity 3 Semi-permanent colours


Quasi-permanent colours

Quasi-permanent colours have smaller colour molecules and are mixed with lower strength hydrogen peroxide. They enter the cortex of the hair and are oxidised during the processing. This makes them swell and then they are trapped inside the cortex.



Quasi-permanent colours (cont.)

• Quasi-permanent colours are popular in the buy to use at home market.

• They require a skin test before each application.

• Colour will fade over time.• Will produce a regrowth.• They are very useful in refreshing

worn tired hair.



Positives last for between12 and 24 weeks will cover up to 80% white/grey hair Good range of colours Can be used for fashion effects Can be used to achieve target shade Can be used for colour correction work Can be used to refresh




Negatives

X Do not cover 100% white/grey hairX Will fade over timeX Can only be removed by colour strippersXCan give patchy results on hair in poor condition




Features Benefits

Complete Activity 4 Quasi-permanent colours


Permanent colours

Permanent colours have small colour molecules that are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. They enter the cortex of the hair, and are oxidised during the processing. This makes them swell and then they are trapped inside the cortex.



Permanent colours (cont.)

• Contain a chemical compound called PPD • (para-phenylenediamine). This can cause an

allergic reaction. • Hydrogen peroxide oxidises the natural

pigments of the hair and this enables the artificial pigments to bond with them, creating a permanent change within the hair’s cortex.

• Contain ammonia/resorcinol • Contain conditioning agents Refer to textbook

Chapter 16, pages 15–16



Positives Have the largest choice of colours Are resistant to fading Will cover 100% white/grey hair Can be used for natural, fashion and

fantasy effects Can be used to achieve target shade Results can be lighter than the client’s natural colour



Negatives

X Some people can be allergic to PPDX Always require a skin test (if in contact with the skin)X Have to grow outX Can only be removed by colour strippersX Can give patchy results on hair in poor condition




Features Benefits

Complete Activity 5 Permanent colours


Other colours

Vegetable-based colour

•Made from plant extracts•Henna used for dying hair and skin•Compatible with most hairdressing products•Compound henna – a mixture of henna and metallic salts. •Incompatible with hairdressing productsMetallic salt-based dyes

•Surface coating•Sometimes called progressive dyes.•Incompatible with hairdressing products



Depth and tone

Depth = how light or dark it is. Tone = the colour or hue

Gold Red Violet

Very light

Light

Medium

Dark

Very dark

Tones

Dep

th



The International Colour Chart System (ICC)

• Used by all manufacturers to show the colours in the range.

• Shades of colour are numbered 1–10• Tones of other colours are shown as /1 or

1 3 • The system arranges the shades in a table. • The names of the bases 1 to 10 will be the

same for all manufacturers • The tones will have different names



The International Colour Chart System (ICC) (cont.)

Num Shade Ash

1

Violet

2

Gold

3

Copper

4

Red

6

Metallic

7

10 Extra light blonde

9 Very light blonde

8 Light blonde

7 Mid blonde

6 Dark blonde

5 Brown 5.4

4 Dark Brown

3 Darkest Brown

1 Black


The International Colour Chart System (ICC) (cont.)

On some charts the tone will be split into 2

Primary tone is shown as /1 or 1 3

Secondary tones indicate the addition of more pigment and are shown with an added number

Shade Depth Primary tone Secondary tone

6.64 6 6 4

6.66 6 6 6



Using the colour chart

• Look at the colour charts that are used in your salon.

• Compare each against the others.• Note the numbering system and the names

of the tones.• Using a chart, find out the base shades of

your colleagues.• Compare your results with others in the

group.• Discuss any differences

Complete Activity 6 Using the shade chart


Hydrogen peroxide

Used to develop permanent and quasi- permanent coloursContains hydrogen and oxygenMade up of 2 atoms of hydrogen and 2 of oxygen (H2O2)Oxygen is used to:•Oxidise some of the natural pigments in the hair•React with the artificial colour to make it swell•Is available in various strengths indicated by volume or %Strength is based on the amount of free oxygen in it



Hydrogen peroxide (cont.)

Hydrogen peroxide strength

Effect upon the hair

6 vol (1.9%) • Will deposit colour and tone into the hair, adding depth, making it darker when using quasi-permanent colours

• 15 vol will lighten 1 shades when using quasi-permanent colours

9 vol (2.7%)

15 vol (4.7%)

20 vol (or 6%) • Will deposit colour and tone into the hair, adding depth, making it darker when using permanent colours

• Will lighten 2 shades above base 6 (on fine hair)• Will lighten 1 shades below base 4

30 vol (or 9%) • Will lighten hair 3 shades above base 6• Will lighten hair 2 levels below base 4

40 vol (or 12%) • Will lighten hair 4 shades above base 6 (with high lift colour)

• Will lighten up to 7 shades of lift with bleach


Hydrogen peroxide (cont.)

Strength cannot be increased Adding 20ml of 40 vol H2O2 to 20ml of 40 vol will give you 40ml of 40 vol NOT 40 ml of 80 vol

Hydrogen peroxide can be diluted by adding distilled watere.g. Adding 20ml of distilled water to 20ml of 20 vol H2O2 will give you 40ml of 10 vol H2O2

Complete Activity 7 Diluting hydrogen peroxide


Lightening hair

Lighteners and bleaches dissolve the natural pigments in the hair.They use hydrogen peroxide to achieve the oxidising process.There are 3 main products for lightening effects: High lift colour Powder bleach Gel/oil bleach Refer to textbook

Chapter 16, pages 20–21


Lightening hair (cont.)

• During the lightening process melanin is oxidised by the action of oxygen.

• Eumelanin (black/brown) has small molecules and these are more easily removed.

• Pheomelanin (red/yellow) is larger than eumelanin and takes longer to remove.

• During processing the hair will change from brown to red to yellow.

• Yellow pigments are often difficult to remove.

Complete Activity 8 Lightening hair


High-lift colour

• Is a non-bleach option for lightening hair• Gentler then powder or gel bleach• Mixed with 6% or 9% H2O2

• Leave hair in better condition• Contains resorcinol which swells the hair shaft

giving better penetration into the cortex• Deposits tones such as ash, beige or warm tones

as the hair lightensRefer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 22–23


Powder bleach

• Used for achieving maximum lift• Mixed with 6%, 9% or 12% H2O2

• Best used with ‘off scalp’ techniques such as cap highlights and foils

• Are fast acting• Mixed to a consistency of thick porridge• Care when mixing to avoid inhaling the powder



Gel/oil bleach

• Known as emulsion bleach as it forms an emulsion when mixed

• Mixed with 6% H2O2

• Has activators that enhance the lightening process, also known as boosters or controllers

• Has ingredients to counter yellow tones • Is suitable for techniques that bring the bleach

into contact with the skin



Toning lightened hair

• Bleach toners are pastel shades that are used to neutralise unwanted tones on lightened hair

• Toning is the process of adding colour to previously bleached or lightened hair

• A variety of shades such as silver, ash and beige (cool tones) and rose (warm tone)



Revisit lesson aims:• Identify how natural and artificial colour pigments can be

altered.• Explore the different types of artificial hair colour.• Explain where the colours work on the hair and investigate

the features & benefits of each artificial hair colour.• Identify the terms ‘tone’ and ’depth’.• Explore the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide.• Investigate how a lightening products works on the hair.

Complete Test your knowledge

Documents

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of hair colour and lightener Chapter 16, Colouring