36

The Tailors Guide Containing Systems of Draughting … . E . C O L E ’S IMP R OV ED SYSTEMOF DRAUGH TNG COATS, BY AC TUAL M E ASUREM EN T. This system was first published by the

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

I H

T H E

TAILORS ’

GUIDEC O NTA I N I NG

SY STEM S O F DRAUGHTIN GFROCKANDSACK COATS, PANTS,

.V E S T S A N D SHIR T S,

WITHVAL UABL E IM PROV EM E N TS , WARRAN TE D SUPE R IORTO AN Y THIN G E VE R OF F E RE D TO THE TRAD E .

BY

L . E . Q O L E ,

P ractica l C utter ("

or the pa st 30 y ea rs .J

y/I’g} C opv R‘ght S ‘

em‘

o d

Jan . 1 8 . 18 69 .

MQ

MIL W A U K E E

STA R R ft S O N , BO O K A N D JO B P RIN TE R S , 4 1 2 A N D 4 1 4. E A ST WATE R S TR EET .

L . E . C O L E’S

IM P R OVED

SYSTEMOF DRAUGHT NG COATS,BY A C TUAL M EASUREM E N T .

Thi s sys tem was fi rs t pub l i shed by the p ropr ie to r i n N ew Y o rki n 1 835, and now republ ished wi th val uab l e imp rovemen ts , su chas have sugges ted themsel ve s t o h im du ri ng a p ract ical exp er i encein u s i ng the s ame du ri ng the pas t th i r ty years

,al l o f wh ich i s

warran ted to fi t al l s hapes and s izes of men,wi thou t any vari at i o n s

i n draught i ng,i t b ei ng s impl y a trans fer o f i n ches taken o n the

man and app l i ed o n the c loth i n draugh t i ng , p rec i s el y as takenthereby

,p roduc i ng a perfec t fi t t i ng garmen t for al l s hapes a nd

s i zes o f m en,making i t i n al l respec ts a perfec t se l f vary i ng ru l e

o r sys tem of draught ing coats; t herefo re I n ow o ff er th i s to thetrade ; and al l I cl a im fo r i t i s : t hat you wi l l give i t you r mos tc r i t i cal and carefu l s c ru t i ny as to i ts mer i t s and p ract i cal u t i l i ty ;and bel i ev i ng that th i s sys tem i s what has l ong been wan ted

,by

the t rade,and that i f on ce adop ted -wi l l n ever. be abandoned , I

mos t cheerfu l ly subm i t the s ame to you r i n spec t i o n and u se .L . E . COLE .

M ILWAU K E E,May

, 1 8 6 8 .

4 L . E . c ow’s TA I LOR S’ GU I DE .

O N M E A S U RIN G .

P la te 1 and 2.

I t i s of the greates t importance i n cu tt i ng, to measu re wi th theu tmos t care and exact ness ; fo r i f th i s be done i n a l oo se andcarel es s manner

,exactnes s i n del i neat i ng wi l l ava i l bu t l i t tl e . The

fi rs t p roces s towards taki ng a measu re i n th i s sys tem i s a s fol l owsLe t you r cus tomer s tand i n hi s natu ral pos i t i o n

,wi th hi s hands on

h i s h ip s,and h i s coat bu ttoned ; then p ro c eed : Fi rs t make a

mark at O,o r where you wi sh th e co l l ar seam al so m ark ou t 235

i nches o n co l laroseam,as at K

,Fig . 1 next

,mark at L

,on F ig. 2,

where you wi sh the cen te r of back cye ; next , p l ace you r tape o rs qua re at L and M

,and mark o n top edge of same on back seam

as at B next,p l ace you r square i n fron t of a rm—the sho rt arm

i n fron t and po i n t i ng upward—crowd the same up i n fro n t of arm—al so the l ong arm up

,as s nug u nder the arm as the cus tomer

wi shes the coat ; wh i l e i n th i s pos i t i o n , mark i n fro n t of squareas a t H

,oppos i te the top edge of square ; al so mark at I , on F ig .

2 ; then p l ace the squ are acros s the back , ranging wi th I , and markat C o n back seam ; next mark at D ,

the natu ral wai s t,and at E

fu l l l ength ; next mark ou t on h ip , near where s ide p iece i s cu t o ff ,say 7 i nches from D to I next

,mark at P 2 i nches from fron t of

co at at wai s t ; next , extend the l i ne from H to G and to fron t ofb reas t ; at 8 next mark ou t h i s l i n e

“from H to G 4 i n ches nextmark at P

,Fig. 1 , and at 8 On br eas t

,and at N o r the th roa t .

Y ou are now ready t o take you r measu re .Commence at O A

,Fig. 2

,and measu re down to B and to

C 8 33 , and to D 1 7 , and E 1 9 , and fu l l l ength ski r t 36 i nches ;next

,pl ace you r tape measu re a t H and measu re acros s u nder

arm by I,Fig . 2

,to C on back seam

_

1 2 i nches,and up to O 1 6

i nches ; next , from H up to K ,o n Fig .I, o r to where 232; i nches

i s marked ; on F ig . 2, 9 9: i nches , and to O ,on Fig. 2, 1 2 i nches ;

and from same poi n t,over shou lder, to B

,o n Fig. 2

, 1 42,and to C o n 2

,1 6 % i nches , from same po i n t to J 9 i nches ,

and from same po i n t to P,1 1 % i nches ; next commence at G

and measu re up to N'

7 i nches , and to K and over shou lde rto B and to L

,o n F ig. 2

,1 1 , and to I 1 5 i nches , and next

S Y STEM O F DRAUGHT I NG C OAT S . 5

down to P 1 05- i nches ; next , from D to J 7 i nches ; next ra i s ethe arm up o n a l eve l wi th B on back

,and bend the el bow' at r igh t

angl es wi th back,and measu re from B to M 7% i n ches , and to

e l bow 20 , and to hand 32; next measu re ac ross b reas t from arm toarm

, o r 8 to8 , 1 6 i nches , and round neck_

1 0 i n ches,over ves t

co l l ar ; next , round b reas t 36 i nches , and wai s t 32 i n ches . Breas tand wai s t measu re ove r ves t .To draugh t back

,draw l i n e o n edge of then commence

at O,and draw l i n e down to E

,abou t two i n fro m edge o f

c l o th,o r fi rs t l i n e at . E ,

and square top of om O to do t o ntop o f back

,then measu re down from O and to C

and to D 1 7 , and E 1 9 i nches , and fu l l le of back 36 i nches ;then measu re from O to do t 2A, and m B to back cyc o nl i n e B 75; i nches , and from E width ba at wai s t 2 i nches

,o r

as you wi s h ; next , fo rm the shou lder , to f back,and s ide seam

as rep resen ted .

To draught forepart,l ay the back on th oth where i t wi l l come

ou t bes t,then extend l i n e C acro s s by H G to fro n t o f b reas t

,

o r as far as neces sary ; then measu re toH1 2 i n ches,and

to G 1 6 or 4 i n ches from H,and to b reas t 20 i n ches

, o r

8 i n ches from H nder arm and up to O,

1 6 i nches,as taken o n the man

,measu re m H to cyc , the width

of square as app l i ed i n measu ri ng,and are u p i n fro n t o f eye

as rep resen ted then fo rm back par t o f e and bot ton,and up t o

l i n e 4 ; next measu re from H up to 9% i n ches , and up toA 12 i n ches ; mark i n the s ame rang 1 47i and 1 6 11 as takenover to B and to C , then sweep from by K and by 1 2,1 45: and 1 62 ; next mark from H J 9 i nche s , and to P1 1 % i nch es ; next , commence a t G measu re up to N 7

i n ches,and to K and over shou to B 15% i n ches , and

to cen te r o f back eye o r L ,an 5 i n ches

,and from same

po i n t to J 1 1 i nches , and to P 1 0 3 ; next , sweep from Hby J 9 i n ches , and from G by J 1 1 next

,from where sweep

c ro s se s at J , measu re back to D 7 n ext,carry the back i n

at wai s t l e t t i ng i t tu rn o n the d shou l der b l ade,u n t i l the

outs ide o f back at D res t s o n sw nches from J ; th i s givesthe coat the exac t sp r i ng at wai s t ; h i l e the back i s i n th i spo s i t i o n

,mark s ide seam from sho ade t o bo ttom o f wai s t

,

as per do tted l i n es , hol l owing i t a then draw l i n e from cye

down to wai s t a t J and form s ide p iece to J ; next ,

E . cow’

s TA I LO R S ’ GU I DE .

sweep fromHtoand measu re fromrep resen ted ; next ,i nches

,then p l ace t

the po i n t where thep o i n t at B o n bacc ro ss from H to Bi s i n th i s pos i t i o neye, and gorge frof or making up ; thentaken o n the man a l

P,and al l ow 2 i nches

TO DRA UGHT F RO C K C OAT SKIRT .

Ob tai n the p i tch of ski r t i n fron t by l ay i ng the fo repar t on i na

'

j o ining pos i t i o n at wais t , and drawi ng a l i ne ru nn i ng i n rangeof fro n t of b reas t to abou t !» i nches i n from the bo ttom -o f skirti n fron t ; al so p l ace the s ide p iece i n a j o i n i ng pos i t i o n at wai s t ,and mark the fol d i n ran

ge of s ide seam to bottom of ski r t

,then

round the fol d as per diagram .

To draught s l eeve,draw a l i ne o n the edge of cl o th

,o r where

you wi s h t o take ou t the s l eeve , and square cros s top from R toA i s on e i nch

,and to S 4 i nches o r width of eye, then square from

S to T,measu re from S to T 8 and from D to i nches o r half

the s i ze of cye, drawu

l ine from 1 1 by 8, 8 i nches from and paral l el

wi th fro n t l i n e,o r hal f the s iz e, then fo rm from S the top o f

s l eeve head to 1 1 , then take o ff width of back and measu re toe lbow 1 9 and to hand 32, l ength of s l eeve ; add on 2

“ i n ches ate lb ow from 8 to 1 0 , and form s leeve as rep resen ted

,any width at

hand you choose ; form unfl'

er s ide as represen ted .

i nches,and from G by P 1 0% i nches ,

to P 0 i nches , and form wais t seam aseep from G by K and ' by Bback

,the d o t

,o r 25‘ i nches from A ,

onsweep s

,cro s s at K

,

from H and G,and the

am ; o n the po i n t where the two sweeps ,and G to B and wh i l e the backthe shou lder seam and the remai nder of

N 1 6 i nches,and al l ow one i n ch

rm breas t from N to P,the l ength as

app ly wai s t measu re from D to J and tor making up fo r fi sh .

wenOIam an 0 1 9

"19 9 8 141mm 55

'

)l0 3 N punog 2

3

d at s wou

1 0 1 9 wasI3'

1»0 1 9 w0uI

a 0 1 9 wou 3

'

)l 0 1 9 l °°'

N on) tum;new samseaw

f l ol fl wo-l dIceC l

v-i

Ofl

'

d 0 1 "

T ol l-I“10h! l °°'

G °J. [ 3<5

woeq dO‘I—v 0 1 7

5

0 1 l o:'

0 0 1 dn

0 0 1H"10 1 1uam samseam

010 29 “MM

4

1

2

a

)

‘ISIBM ImmenuuvJapun |aAa1

3A3noes o; umoa

d o;32 MOB8 “M M 0 0 2

1

2

6

1

7

1

3

40

8

1

9

1

333

1

71

2

8

1

9

y a

0 !

1

4

9%

8

43

9514

1

91

2

9

44

2

1

934

0

45

mm

S

N@

2

2

Na

2

Nfi

NS

a

Nw

Nw

Nfl

No

N2

S

N:

mm

s

Na

NS

mm

Nm

N2

N2

NS

N2

Nw

Nm

2

a

QNS

NE

NZ

mm

8

NS

NS

a

Na“.

Nfi

NS

Nfi

w

Nw

Nfl

Na

NS

NS

S

N!

3

NS

Nw

NS

NE

N;

Nfl

2

S

N.

N2.

w

Nfi

Na

NE

NS

NQW:

:

N2

N_

2

NS

NS

_

N\.

w

Ni

Nm

NM:

E

N2

5

m

S

fi

Nn

2

Nfi

No—No

Na

Na.

NS

NQ

QNE

NQNO

mm

NS

w

2

.

E

N_

N:

as

z

NS

Na

a

;

Na

fi

Nm

NE

NS

mfi

No

NS

NS

m

E

NS

mm

8

NS

NS

a

N:

Na.

E

NC

Np

Nb

2

wNS

NE

2

No

NE

Nfi

Nb

Ewa

n

8

Ni.

NE

NS

NO

N:

S

NE

NO

N.

Np

NS

NQ

N2

mfi

NB

No

Nf

NS

Nw

E

Nw

am

8

Nb

2

2

No

2

N2

o

h

b

N:

2

NE

N2

o

S

mfl

NN.

wfi

Nw

a

8

Nb

NE

NS

NQ

N2

Nz

Nfi

Nm

Ne

NG

Nz

Nw

NS

NE

NS

NQ

Nfi

N

sNS

NA

L . E . C O L E’

S

D R A U GHTIN G S

P A N T S

O N N EW PR IN C IPL E S .

C opv R'

grht S .

Gul‘

O d

Ja n. 18 . 1 8 39 .

0 0 —

Thi s sys tem i s en t i re ly new wi th the p rop r ie to r, and fi rs t pub -

l ished i n 1 858 and now repub l i shed wi th valuab l e imp rovemen ts , andwarran ted to fi t al l shapes

,e i ther co rpu l en t o r regu l ar fo rm , wi th—

ou t any variat ion s I n d raught i ng ; al l p an t s be i ng draughted byth i s sy s tem p rec i sel y the same

,and no th i ng woul d i nduce h im to

repub l i s h th i s sy s tem at th i s t ime bu t a fi rm bel i ef that i t i s no to n l y the bes t

,bu t the on l y sys tem ever pub l i shed fou nded upo n

tru e sc i en t ific p r i nc ip l es of act ual measu remen t , every par t bei ngdraughted by i t s own measure the reby giv i ng to each part the exac tqu an t i ty of cl o th requ i red and i n the r igh t p l ace, and no more .The importan t featu reso f th i s sys tem d i ff er i ng from al l o thers arethe es tab l i shmen t of a bas e o r wo rki ng l i n e ru nn i ng from the wai s tto the i ns tep th rough the cen tre of the l eg

,and by worki ng each

way from th i s l i n e at wa i s t,th igh

,knee and bot tom , giv i ng to each

part the number o f i nches cal l ed fo r and n o more . Pan ts draughtedby th i s sys tem never twi s t

,bu t alway s hang perfect l y square and

can be cu t any shap e e i ther hal f and hal f on each s i de o f base l i n eo r top s ide narrow at any par t , as what comes o ff from top s ide i sadded to u nde r s ide

,a lway s a l l owing o ne- hal f the s i z e of l eg a t

any par t o n each s ide of bas e l i n e,as that i s the cen te r of bo th

top and u nder s ides, c en te r of i n s tep and cen te r of heel , cen te r of

knee,th igh and wai s t . I th i nk a gl ance a t the p r i nc ip l es of th i s

sy s tem and i t s work i ng,i s su ffic ien t to conv i nce any p rac t ica l cu t -

IO L . E . C O LE S TA I LOR S GU I DE .

ter o f i ts superio rity over any and ,

al l o ther sys tems n ow i n u se .Hundreds of tes t imon ial s of i ts super io ri ty cou ld begiven fromthose now us i ng i t

,bu t i t i s deemed u nneces sary as the p ri nc ip l e

ful l y shows fo r i ts el f,and fee l i ng the fu l l es t co nfidence that th i s

sys tem,i f o nce adop ted

,wi l l n ever be abandoned

,I cheerfu l ly

subm i t i t to you r i nspec t i o n a nd u se .

L . E . COLE .

M ILWA U K EE,May

,1 8 6 8 .

T O MEASURE F O R P AN TS .

P la l a 2Commence at top of h ip bone and measu re down to knee

,22

i nches,and to bo ttom 42; next i n s ide l eg measu re t o s o l e of boot

next to boo t heel 32 i nches,next rou nd wai s t

,h ips

,s eat

,th igh

,

knee,bo ttom ;

T o draught upper s ide or diagram A by th i s sys tem,fi rs t

d raw l i ne o n edge o f c l o th from O to C at bo ttom,next meas—

u re down from O to B 2 and to C 42,next up to A 32

,next

draw l i ne from A to D 25 i nches i n from C ,next measu re

i n from D to K 1 7 , s cal e A bo ttom measu re next sweep fromK by P to N at knee and from A to H at th igh

,and from O -to I

at wai s t,next measu re i n from A to E 21

,sca le A

,th igh measure;

next draw base l i n e o r Work i ng l i ne from K.

by E to J at wai s t andfrom th i s l i ne you work each way by p l aci ng the cen te r o f draught i ngs c al e o n th i s l i n e

,the p ro trac tor po i n t i ng down and mark o ut each

way from wais t,th igh

,knee and bottom accord i ng to the measures

taken,as each part i s draughted by i ts own measu re , no o ne meas—

u re havi ng any th i ng to do wi th the o ther ; p l ace the scal e o n bas el i n e at “wai s t and mark each way 1 4, s cal e A wai s t measu re , nextmark ou t from E to A 21 , s cal e A th igh measu re , and to F 21 ,s cal e B

,and to G 21

,s cal e A th igh measure , and add the dres s to

H,then pl ace cen ter of scal e at M and mark each way to P and

N,scal e A knee measu re

,next from K to L 1 7 , s cale B bo ttom

measu re,then draw l i ne from F to I and from G to N and- L at

S Y STEM O F D RAUGHT I NG P ANT S . IIbo t tom

,then F ORM from I to G and from I to H fo r dres s

,and

from A to R and from H to N and bottom as rep resen ted .

T o draught u nder s ide o r diagram B,l ay the upper s ide o n the

c l o th where i t wi l l come ou t bes t ; then extend the bas e l i n e fromJ to U ,

nex t extend the sweep s from G to S and from J to T atwai s t

,from J to T i s o ne - fou rth the s ize o f wai s t , and V taken

o ut,from G to S i s 21

,s ca l e C thigh measu re

,add to u nder s ide

a t N t i l l they wi l l make up the requ i red s ize,1 7 i nches , al s o add

from 1 7 upper s i de a t bo t tom to 1 7 under s i de t i l l they make up1 7 i nches , the requ i red s ize as p er measu re ; from J to U i s 1 4,s cal e A wai s t measure

, an sweep f rom F by R ; s ee d iagram A ;draw l i ne from U to T

,and take ou t V

,and fo rm top as repres

-

ented ; draw l i ne f rom‘

U to C at fo rk,next app l y h ip measu re 34,

and from 3 to 4, s eat measu re, 36 i nches , then fo rm from U to Cand S

,and from T to knee and to bo t tom as rep resen ted , dropp i ng

the p o i n t at SS,abou t o ne i nch

,and s t retch i ng the s ame up as

marked o n d iagram B ; al s o s t re tch ing i n the cu rve a t- G,C o n

u nder s ide has a very beau t ifu l e ffec t i n th e fi t o f pan ts .D iagram C i s draughted the same as d i agram B in al l respec ts

,

giv i ng to each par t the requ i red number o f i nches cal l ed fo r astaken on the man—i t s hows the difi'

erencel

between the regu l ar formand the co rpu l en t one . Th is bei ng the form o f the co rpu l e n tm an

,and the d i s tance each way fr

om J to K and J to I be i ng 21each way

,i n s tead of 1 4 o n the regu l ar fo rm at wai s t , and from 3 to

4, s eat measu re , 44 i n s tead o f , 36 on d iagram B .

I th i nk th i s i l l u s t rat i o n of the d i ff eren t forms,and the d i ff eren t:

s hapes p roduced,wi l l conv i nce any p ract i ca l cu t te r o f the t rue s e l f

vary i ng p ri n c ip l es o f th i s sys tem over any o ther sys tem .

D iagrams D and E are o n the s ame p ri nc ip l e o f draugh ti ng,

o n ly showi ng the manner of draught i ng s ide band goods,a s you

can no t ho l l ow the top s ide a t knee,i t requ i res a l l the ho l l owi ng o n

the u nders ide at the knee,as rep resen ted o n d iagram D .

D iagram E shows the manner o f tak i ng the measu re as app l i edo n d iagram A and B .

L . E . C O L E’S

IM P R OVED

BY A C TUAL M EASUREM E N T .

TO DRAUGHT SAC K C OAT A N D SHORTBUSIN ESS F RO C K .

P la te 3 .

Thi s p l ate con ta i n s the d raugh t of Sack Coat i n fu l l,al so Sho r t

Bu s i ne s s Frock .

I n measu ri ng fo r Sack Coat you p roceed the same as fo r FrockCoats

,o n p l ate 1 , figs . 1 and 2, excep t you wi l l n o t measu re to o r

mark a t J a t h ip , o r at P at fro n t of wai s t . Afte r mark i ng al l theneces sary p o i n ts

, you wi l l take you r measu res as fo l l ows from Oto B 5, and to C 8 and to D natu ral wai s t 1 6 , and to bo ttom 30i n ches ; next p l ace you r tap e at H ,

and measu re ac ro s s u nder armto

'

C 1 2 i nches,and up to O A 1 6 i n ches

,nex t from H to K

and to O 1 2 i n ches,and ove r to B l 4a} , and to C 1 6 a} i nches , nex t

commence a t G and measu re to N 7 and to K DE and to B 1 5%i nches from G to cen te r of back cyc , to cen ter of back cye 1 1 %

and to I 1 5 i nches , next p l ace the arm at r igh t angl es and measu refrom B to M and to el bow 20 and to hand 32 i nches

,next

ac ro ss b reas t and arou nd neck 1 6 and 1 6 i nches, next aroundb reas t 36 i nches .To draft back

,c ommence at O and measu re down to B 5

,and to

C 8 , and to wai s t 1 6 , and ful l l ength 30 i nches ; width of back a ttop 2% inches ; s quare ac ro s s a t B and C and D and at bo t tom ;

next measu re ou t o n l i n e B and o n l i n e C 6 i nches ; draw l i n efrom 6 t o bo ttom o f back paral l e l wi th back seam

,and from the

back as you p l ease .

I4 L . E . C O L E’

s TA I LOR S ’ GU I D E .

To draft forepart,p lace the back on the c l o th , and extend l i n e

acro s s to fro n t o f b reas t,then measu re from C to H 1 2 i nches

,

and to G 1 6 o r 4 from H and to fro n t o f breas t,and al l ow 2

i nches from 8 to fro n t ; measu re back from H to eye 1 i n c h o rw idth o f square

,as u se i n measu ring

,then square up i n fro nt of

eye as per d iagram next p l ace tape at H and measu re up to Kand to 0

,top back

, 1 2 i nches ; measu re i n s ame range 1 42-and 1 6 13 i n ches ; then sweep from H by K 1 2

, 1 4% and 1 6 %i nches ; next commence a t G and measure up to N 7 , and to K O z} ,and to B 1 551L i n ches ; next from G to L and to I 1 5 i nchesn ext p l ace th e back o n po i n t 2% i nches , touch i ng po i n t Wheresweep from H and G crosses at K

,and po i n t B Where sweep from

H and G c rosses a t B on back,then fo rm the shou lde r seam

,and

fo rm go rge from K to N next from eye and b reas t add o n abou ttwo i nches a t bo t tom of fo repart a t . back , and d raw l i nefrom l i neD to bo ttom

,and shap e s ide seamas per d i agram .

To draugh t s leeve,

'

f rom O to 1 i s 1 i nch , and to 4 i s 4 i nches ,or Wi d th of cye ; from 4 to 1 5 i s 1 5 i nches o r s ize of eye ; drawl i n e 1 5 to bo ttom of s l eeve paral l e l wi th fron t l i ne ; al l ow abou t2 i nches at 1 9 p lace the back a t top of s l eeve

,and measu re from

ou ts ide of back t o el bow at 1 9 , and to 3 1 l ength of s l eeve 3 1i nches

,and form sl eeve as rep resen ted .

D iagram A,B

,C,D

,are draughted the same i n al l respec ts as

frock coat o n P late 1 .

S Y STEM O F DRAUGHT I NG C OAT S . 1 5

TO DRAUGHT O VER C OAT A N D C A P E .

P la te 4 .

To draught th i s over—coat and cape, you w il l p roceed i n al l

respect s the same as i n d raught i ng sack u nde r coat,o n p l ate 3 ,

excep t you wi l l add to a l l - the measu re taken from O ,E and F , as

fo l l ows : f rom O to B 1 i n ch,and from E to B 1 i nch , and from

E to O at top of back,and to H

,A

,B,each 1 i nch , as you wil l

s ee the al l owance i s made al ready i n the draught , and marked i nfigures on the l i nes

,as from E to B 1 3% i n s tead o f 1 25 as taken

o n the man ; al so from E to H ,A and B 1 35, and 1 8 , in—

s tead o f 1 4A, and 1 7 , as taken o n the man ; al so al l ow 2i nches ac ros s b reas t in fo rm i ng al l p arts . See diagram s A ,

B and C .

Th i s d i agram shows a - very good way o f cu t t i ng a fi rs t ratefi t t i ng cape by th e go rge of co at w i th the back i n a j o i n i ngpo sItio n.

TO M EASURE F O R VEST .

With D elinea tor .

Take the l ength from socket bo ne at n eck ove r s hou lder anddown to h ip and i n fro n t

,the n round the b reas t , wai s t and neck ,

also the heighth o f r o l l . Th is ves t i s draughted by a del i neato rmade fo r the pu rpose

,and Warran ted good . I n d raught i ng ves t

,

p roceed as fo l l ows : Draw l i ne o n edge of c l o th , then draw 2d l i n e2 i nches i n s i de and paral l e l w i th the fi rs t and square the top

,the n

take the del i n eato r and p lace the edge of same on i ns ide l i n e and l etthe figu res 36 res t on the top l i n e ; then mark al ong I n thed i ff eren tspaces and al o ng the bo t tom of del i neato r

,and then mark a t 36 I n

each sp ace and on the fro n t and bo ttom,then fo rm the ves t from

po in t to po i n t marki ng from one po i n t to the o ther by the marksmade at the figu res 36

,o r any o the r

' s i ze you wi s h to draught asthe figures i n the space al l i nd icate the d i ff eren t b reas t meas u resand are al l app l i ed as above .The back 1 8 draughted the s ame wav by p l ac i ng the del i n eato r

-

o n l i n e 0 fig. 36 , a t top res t i ng o n top l i ne , then mark I n a l l thespaces as i n draught i ng fo rep art then fo rm ing from one po i n t t othe o ther.Thi s del i neato r cu ts a beau t i fu l fi t t i ng ves t and can no t be bea t .

I6 L . E . G O L E’

s T AIL O R s’ GU I DE .

TO DRAUGHT SHIRT .

P la te 4.

D iagrams A,B and C of sh i rt d raught

,shows a p l an of draught-

i ng a sh i rt ; and I guaran tee i t to be one of the bes t fi t t i ng sh i r t sever go t up i n th i s cou n try . I t i s al l r igh t .The measu res fo r sh i r t are taken as fo l l ows firs t measure from

0 l ength of sh i rt, next l ength of s l eeve from Socket bone at O,

l e tt i ng the arm hang down,measu re from O over the s hou lde r

down to hand,say 32

,and ful l l ength of wri s t b and 34 ; next

round neck 1 6 , and b reas t 38 fo r th i s draugh t. - Th is draugh t i s38 breas t.T o draugh t the back , commence at O ,

from 0 down to 1 i s 1i nch ; to 2 i s to 3 , 8A; to to 5

,2 to 6

,31 ; and

to A,35 i nches . Square ou t from

,

l i ne 0 at 2,3,4, 5, 6 and A ;

next mark ou t o n top from O to T 2% i nches ; next ou t o n l i n e2,

o n 3,

o n 4,1 2 ; on on 6

,form bo ttom

of back from A to 1 2% where sh i rt i s l eft Open at bo t tom,draw

l i ne from T to 9 % to 9% and to C ,and from 1 2 by 1 0 to l 29.t a s

rep resen ted .

To draught fron t of sh i r t,commence at O measu re down 2

,

7 17 , 30 and 34 i nches ; then squ are ou t from 1,2,3,4,5

and B ; next measu re i n from O at 2,

and on l i n e 2,A; l i n e 3 , 1 2 ; l i ne 4, l i n e 5

,1 2A; and fo rm l i ne B as you

see to draw l i ne from A to D,and form from D by 9% to

C, and from C by 1 25 to 1 2% at bo ttom as rep resen ted ; next cu ta p i ece the shape of a yoke

,and p l ace o n as you see, coveri n g

shou lder seam,to be be s t i tched on same as yoke .

D iagram C or s l eeve : commence at 0 ,m easu re down on 0

l i n e 2A, 1 1 % and 22 ; s qu are ou t 0 l i n e, and at 1 , 2, .

and at hand6 i nches ; then fo rm sl eeve as per d iagram . Make cu ff any widthor s i ze you wi sh .

C O NTA I N I NG

SY STEM S O F DRAUGHTIN GV E S T S A N D SHIR T S ,

WITHVAL UABL E IM PROVEME N TS , WARRAN TED SUPE R IORT o A N Y THIN G ‘

EVE R OF F E RE D T o THE TRAD E .

BY

L . E . C O L E ,

P ractica l C utter for the past 30 y ea rs .

C up“R ight SecuredJd u. 1 8 . 1869 .

hd llI. VV t\IJI(IZIZS TA R R Sc S O N , BO O K A N D JO B P RIN TE RS , 4 1 2 A N D 4 1 4. EA S T W ATER S TR EET .

1 8 6 8 .