Tip: Talgo Night Train with Variable Brightness LED lightingmembers.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/public_html/rms/pdf... · 2019. 4. 9. · Talgo train. To control the brightness of the

Tip: Talgo Night Train with Variable Brightness LED lighting Date: 19-03-2019, 27-03-2021

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 1

First a little history. Märklin produced the Intercity Night Train set 41771 and 41772 extension set shown

below on pages 174-175 from the 1998-1999 English catalogue. I would say that this train was produced by

the Spanish manufacturer Electrotren which is now owned by Hornby International. A good friend gave me

the Electrotren set 3021 (six cars), 3212 (x3) and 3213 which will make a ten car set.

I have always liked this train for its single axle arrangement on each car. EuroLokshop has a selection of

these Electrotren models.

Zoom in if you want to read the text.

Caution these coaches were not designed to be taken apart to allow you to add passengers and/or LED

lighting. Copying my method to add passengers and LED lighting is done entirely at your own risk as you

will break plastic clips in every coach. Fine motor skills and patience are required to complete this project.

Planning and Feasibility Study

Before committing to the project I had to get the front and rear car plus an intermediate car apart to see if I

could fit front and rear LED lights which would change over with a direction change as well as coach

lighting for the entire train.

All cars would require a plug/socket arrangement so all cars could be separated for storage.

The project would require two decoders, one at each end of the train which would limit the number of wires

between cars to four wires. Two wires would conduct the track power and the other two wires would be used

for the variable car lighting.

The decoder at the front of the train would control the F0 function for front/rear light function. The motor

output would be used for the car lighting throughout the train set and be able to have variable brightness

control.

The decoder at the rear of the train would control the F0 function for rear/front light functions.

Power to the decoders would be supplied by the locomotive pulling/pushing the train from either end of the

train set.

http://www.tee-usa.com/store/electrotren-catalog-new-ss2.html



Planning and Feasibility Study continued

As I was going to use old 6080 type decoders the address must be changeable on the underside of the front

and rear cars. The addresses could be set the same or independent of each other for different control features,

more on this later.

The front and rear LED lights with variable brightness of the train car set must be controllable with

TrainController.

The warm white LED lights must be even throughout the cars.

The DC wheel sets on the cars must be modified to AC wheel sets to allow track occupancy with

TrainController.

A suitable locomotive must be modified to supply power to the Talgo Night train.

Passengers would have to be painted and fitted before final assembly.

Experimenting on the Workbench

With all the past coach lighting projects I have done using 6080/6090 type decoders I have always removed

the motor wires but this time I wanted to see if I could make use of the motor control section of the decoder

to have variable brightness car lighting as a second function to the F0 front and rear lights or the F0 car

lights.

I wired a few LEDs first using a 6080 (AC) motor control decoder then a 6090 (DC) motor control decoder.

With both decoders I could vary the brightness of the LEDs but the (AC) decoder required a small circuit

change.

See variable_LED_lighting_decoders article.

I had to use small (DC) type decoders removed from my Michelin buses to suit the space requirements of the

Talgo train.

To control the brightness of the lights using TrainController I needed to design an extended accessory where

I could specify the locomotive speed steps for the brightness required for the LEDs.

See loco_speed_steps_extended_accessory article.

Finally I had to find suitable sitting passengers that would fit into the seats and complete painting them

before I could assemble the coaches.

See painting_preiser_figures article.

With the variable brightness LED lighting tested and the control of the decoder using an extended accessory

in TrainController designed and tested it was time to open the Talgo front and rear cars and also an

intermediate car to find what would be possible.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/variable_LED_lighting_decoders.pdf

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/loco_speed_steps_extended_accessory.pdf

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/painting_preiser_figures.pdf



Opening the Cars

Rear Car

The rear car of the Talgo train is the first car I started with and I must say I was apprehensive getting the car

apart without creating too much damage. I’m sorry I forgot to take photos for this car disassembly so I’ll try

and explain the steps.

First I removed the coupler then the buffers by pulling them straight out. I used my thumbnail to work along

the seam of the base and body shell in the direction of the red arrow only on this side of the car. Once two

tabs were visible and the body shell key that fits into the base key slot were apart (green arrow location) I

was able to flex the base along the Z axis (out of the screen) to release the pressure on the first and second

tabs on the other side of the car. I continued along the seam until the tab at the blue arrow was released then

did the same process for the tab on the other side of the car.

With the base separated from the body shell (see dotted green line) the car weight must be removed using

tweezers in the direction of the violet arrow.

Finally the base can be removed from the body shell by first pushing the base in the direction of the grey

arrow (1) then pulling down in the direction of the light blue arrow (2) on both sides

followed by removing the base in the direction of the light brown arrow (3).

Care should be taken when removing the base as some tabs will be broken and you don’t

want to lose any. I found that the side I first tried to separate the base and body shell was

usually the side where tabs were broken. Using super glue I glued along the stress break

(orange arrow) then held the tab in the correct position until the tab had set.

I assessed that it would be possible to fit LED lights (white and red) for the end of the car and it would be

possible to feed track power from a coupled locomotive. How the car interconnections would be done

required that I disassemble another car.

It was also obvious that all electronics and passengers would have to be tested and fitted before final

assembly as I didn’t want to risk further damage to the tabs that hold the car together.

1

2

3



Opening the Cars continued

Front Car

For the front car I first removed the single axle wheel assembly (orange arrow) followed by the coupler and

buffers. I then used the same method as the rear car to remove the body shell.

For the front car I experimented with a two LED light unit

PCB and people positioned in the seats. More details to follow.

The front and rear cars only have 3 tabs along each side as the

buffers sockets help hold the car(s) together.

Intermediate Car (typical)

For the intermediate car I first removed the single axle wheel assembly.

Again I used my thumbnail to move along the seam between the base and the body shell (red arrow)

Once all the tabs (4 per side) are free on one side it’s easy to remove the base from the body.

As each car is opened I repaired any broken tabs before starting the next car to avoid losing any bits.



Interconnection between Cars

With the front and rear cars plus an intermediate car open it was time to experiment how to have connecters

between each car that would allow reliable electrical connections but also allow

storing the cars in the original boxes. The solution proved to be straight forward

but required a lot of steps. The photo right shows the arrangement.

The 4 pole plug made of rolled IC pins is on the left and is marked with white

paint to indicate polarity. The 4 pole socket made of rolled IC pins is mounted on

the single axle assembly which is the centre point of rotation between the cars.

Wiring must be consistent between cars to avoid short circuits.

Plug and Socket Feasibility

I built a test plug and socket as shown above and made sure the connections matched. Next the socket was

mounted into the axle assembly held in position with hot melt glue with the front of the socket flush with the

axle assembly.

*You will note that the heat shrink is not

a rigid part of the socket or plug at this

time as shown in the top photo.

The next step was to determine the location and drill size to allow the wires to enter the car at the centre line

shown in the middle photo above.

For the first try I didn’t drill the holes

as shown at the socket end and only

used the existing slots for the wires.

At the plug end I only drilled a 2.0mm

hole shown by the red/blue circle.

With the wires threaded through the

respective ends and the cars joined I

found the turning moment of the cars

too stiff and noted the wires bent too much on each movement of the cars, a recipe for wire breakages.

For the socket end I drilled a 2.0mm hole at the top of the existing slots and on the plug end I drilled two

extra 2.0mm holes on either side of the red/blue hole which were then filed to form one slot as shown, this

allowed the wires better movement as well as the cars. For the plug end I increased the length of the heat

shrink on the plug to provide protection to prevent the wires rubbing in the slot.

Socket End Plug End

6.0mm



Plug and Socket Construction

I drew the connection points in the diagrams below to get consistent wiring. The green and grey pins are for

the car LED lighting circuit. The red and brown pins are for track power only to the decoders.

For the socket construction there are a number of steps to be completed.

1.) I cut Vero board to size to fit centrally in the rectangle on the axle assembly.

2.) The copper foil was cut (red line) to isolate each connection from the other.

3.) On the component side I counter sunk the holes with a 2.0mm drill.

4.) The counter sunk holes must allow the IC pins to fit flush with the PCB.

5.) Before soldering the pins to the PCB I super glued the two groups of two pins together to

maintain the correct distance between socket pins.

6.) With the socket mounted in a vice I soldered 80mm length ESU wires

using the colours as shown. A small length of heat shrink was added to

help maintain a low profile to the PCB for stress relief see note 8.

7.) Once the socket assembly was mounted into the axle assembly with the

correct orientation it is held in position with hot melt glue with the front of

the socket flush with the axle assembly.

8.) *The hot melt glue must hold the heat shrink as a rigid stress relief for the soldered wires.

6.9

5.9

Rear View Socket

Top

Rear View

Plug

Top

Bottom Bottom



Plug and Socket Construction continued

The green and grey pins are for the car LED lighting circuit. The red and brown pins are for track power

only to the decoders.

For the plug construction there are a number of steps to be completed.

1.) I super glued the two groups of two pins together to maintain the correct distance between plug

pins.

2.) With some sockets held in a vice I plugged in the glued pin pairs.

3.) 80mm length ESU wires using the colours as shown were soldered to the plug pins. A small length

of heat shrink was added to help maintain a low profile to the PCB for stress relief.

4.) Heat shrink was applied to the plug as shown and white paint added to the side of the plug for correct

polarity.

5.) Finally hot melt glue was applied to help stress relief the soldered wires as shown below.

With plug and socket interconnections between cars possible it is time to look at the coach interior lighting

as well as the front and rear lights at each end of the train.

Rear View Socket

Top

Rear View

Plug

Top

Bottom Bottom

The area should be free of hot

melt glue and be able to fit into

the car plug end slot.



Front and Rear Lights at Both Ends of the Train

The above photos show the Generator Car TG6-612052 usually at the rear of the train with lights off, front

lights on and rear lights on.

Overview

This proved to be a challenge to mount the LEDs at the correct location and provide wiring to the LEDs

because the clearance to do this was less than 1.5mm behind the window/light glass insert.

The glass insert shows the lights are solid at the front but are moulded as

individual cylinders at the back where the outside lights are painted silver and

the inside lights are painted red.

To mount the LEDs I used thin plastic from decoder packaging and cut the

shape shown to mount on the interior insert. The adhesive copper tape from

Jaycar Electronics is a first for this lighting project to help maintain a very

low profile. Please refer to the circuit diagram on page 11.

I cut the copper tape to a 50mm length with the

paper backing in place. This was then held on a

cutting matt with mild adhesive masking tape.

The tape was cut into thinner strips using a ruler

and sharp blade. The copper circuit PCB was

constructed as shown. All overlapping joints

were soldered to form a complete circuit.

To locate the position of the LEDs I removed the

glass insert and used a 0.3mm pencil to mark the interior insert through the

light recess. With the clear plastic I could see the pencil marks behind and

this helped to position the LEDs.

The photo shows the LEDs at the correct position behind the light recess.



Adhesive Copper PCB Details Front Car

After the copper tape is cut to size the backing

paper is peeled off and the copper tape is stuck to

the clear plastic.

All overlapping joints were soldered to form a

complete circuit.

The orientation of the LEDs is shown with the

orange wire connecting to the anode side of the two

LEDs on the left.

The yellow wire is connected to the cathode of the

red LED and the grey wire is connected to the

cathode side of the white LED.

The copper tape tracks complete the serial connections between the white and red LEDs respectively.

Adhesive Copper PCB Details Rear Car

The PCB for the rear car is electrically identical but the

height has been reduced to match the interior details in

the Generator Car.

Once the LEDs have been assembled it’s a good time to test the LEDs by connecting temporary current

limiting resistors of 1k value to ensure all LEDs function.

Please refer to the wiring diagram on page 11.

Once the lights were tested I glued the assemblies in place on the interior insert.



Window Insert Modification and Masking

For ease of assembly I had to file down the individual light cylinders on the rear of the window/light insert

by at least 0.5mm.

As the window/light insert is moulded in one piece the LED light bleeds

into the window area. To reduce this I painted black acrylic paint around

the edges of the windows and lights. To further reduce the light bleed I

also created a light mask by punching small holes to allow insertion over

the light cylinders at the back of the insert.

Refer to page 8 and you will see the light bleed still exists but is at an

acceptable level for this project.

Car LED Lighting PCB Strips

Front Car

For the front car the PCB only required two LEDs and is shorter in length than the rest of the cars.

The foil strip under the LEDs is cut and the LEDs are in series with a 1k current limiting resistor at each end.

Please refer to wiring diagram on page 11 for details.

On the underside of the PCB two adhesive copper strips are positioned as shown to conduct the track power

through the entire train to the decoders at each end.

All Other Cars

A total of eight PCBs with three LEDs where required for the rest of the cars.

The foil strip under the LEDs is cut and the LEDs are in series with a 1k current limiting resistor at each end.

Please refer to wiring diagram on page 11 for details.

122mm

94mm



Wiring Diagram Typical Car LED Lighting

Wiring Diagram Front Car LED Lighting

Wiring Diagram Rear Car LED Lighting

Please note for the rear car F0f is wired to the red LEDs and F0r is wired to the white LEDs.

+Plus

-Neg

1k 1k

+Orange

Mot1

6090

~ ~

1k

1k

Mot2

F0r

F0f

Type

Decoder

1k

1k

+Orange

Type

Decoder

6090

F0r

F0f

Optional External

Track Power

External Track Power

+Plus

-Neg

1k 1k



Decoder Fitting and Address Switches for Front and Rear Cars

The photos show the mounting arrangement for the front car, for the rear car the only difference is the diode

bridge isn’t required.

A rectangular hole is cut into the plastic chassis to allow a press fit of the 8 way low profile dip switch. The

dip switch pins are cut off and the remaining flat part of the pins are bent down to maintain a very low

profile. The wires are soldered to the bent pins as shown and must be kept low to allow the interior detail

insert to sit flat on the chassis. All wirings details can be found here variable_LED_lighting_decoders .

The small DC decoder from the Michelin Bus is a tight fit with the small diode bridge on flying leads with

all solder joints protected with heat shrink. To prevent short circuits between the track power copper foils on

the lighting PCB and components on the decoder a thin black card is placed behind the decoder and bent

over at the top as shown. Finally the decoder is held in place with hot melt glue.

To get front and rear LED lights to switch over with a direction change the two small transistors shown with

grey and yellow arrows are required. Don’t use the large transistor on the other side of the decoder PCB.

I cut two lengths of evergreen styrene angle item No. 295 5/32” (4.0mm) and glued them in place as they are

required to stop the car weight moving about in the chassis to prevent the steel plate coming in contact with

the dip switch pins. A single 2.5mm hole is drilled in the interior detail to allow all the wires through into the

car interior. Some hot melt glue was also used at both ends of the dip switch.

In the right photo the red and brown wires go to the decoder and are soldered to a connector on the bottom of

the chassis. The LED light assembly is glued in place and the wires go through a small piece of heat shrink

which is mounted in a slot to keep it flush with the front of the interior detail edge.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/variable_LED_lighting_decoders.pdf



Decoder Fitting and Address Switches for Front and Rear Cars continued

The steel weight was cut to length to be a neat fit between the styrene angles and the tab (red arrow) on the

interior detail to prevent any sliding movement. The steel plate was cleaned of all surface rust and painted

with cold-gal paint not shown in this photo.

The underside view of the front car chassis shows the connector arrangement with the next car followed by

the coding dip switches for a possible 80 Motorola addresses and the track power socket connector.

The underside view of the rear car chassis shows the track power socket connector and the coding dip

switches for a possible 80 Motorola addresses.

As this train was designed for use on a 2-rail system I painted the axle and wheels with silver conductive

paint on the front and rear cars for 3-rail track occupancy use in TrainController.



Track Power Connection

There is no track power collection on the ‘Talgo Train’ as all wheels are insulated (2-rail) and there is no

suitable place for a collector shoe to be fitted.

I opted to supply the power from the attached locomotive via a male to male cable which is slightly longer

than the coupled distance of the ‘Talgo Train’ and the locomotive as this provides compression on the

sockets to stop coming apart. The cable used has stiffer insulation and doesn’t sag to interfere with the centre

rail studs. It is important that the connections of the locomotive being used and the ‘Talgo Train’ match so

the cable isn’t twisted.

Front Light Current Limiting Resistors

Two 1k resistors were mounted on a small Vero board as shown. The extra foil is

for the +Plus wire connection.

For the front car the resistor assembly is glued at the location of the yellow arrow.

For the rear car the resistor assembly is glued on the sided wall as the trough is narrower (no photo taken)

Please refer to the wiring diagram on page 11.



Front Car Interior Lights

As the decoder and front lights are at opposite ends of the car I ran the grey, yellow and orange wires along

the top of the lighting PCB using small lengths of heat shrink tube glued to the PCB to keep the wiring tidy.

Two clear plastic strips are glued across the car at each end (red arrows) which supports the lighting PCB

and is glued in place with hot melt glue. As the project advanced I tested the lights to make sure all functions

worked.

Fitting Passengers

The seating arrangement in the second class car is

very narrow and a lot of the figures had to be filed

down to get them to sit on the seats. Once fitting

was complete I painted them.

All figures are held in place with hot melt glue.



Light Diffusers and Masking

In the photo below you can see the LEDs are directed up away from the interior and passengers. The LEDs

have a wide view angle but would still create hot spots and be visible if they were mounted in a downward

direction.

The Bar car is ready for assembly and you will note that I have added white paper into the three sections of

the roof, more detail to follow. The LED lighting is diffused into a soft light and provides even lighting to

the entire car. The photo below shows the car without window inserts.

The photo above shows the light level has been reduced by fitting the window inserts.

The first problem I noticed was the light bled from the roof part line (yellow dashed line) this was fixed by

masking the roof.



Light Diffusers and Masking continued

There are two different roof recess sizes which require three different mask sizes.

The thin black card is cut to the shown sizes and the folding tabs are 5mm extra. Once the masks are glued in

place the excess tabs were trimmed to the edge of the recess as shown.

You will notice that the paper forms a curve by gluing in the middle of the paper and along the edges.

The white paper used as light diffusers is cut to the following sizes

A=30x27, B= 37x27 and C= 33x27.

A B

A A A

31 38

17

34

21 C

B B C

A A A



Planning Passenger Locations

The interior is placed in front of the body shell to plan passenger locations. I wanted to avoid blind locations

where you couldn’t see the passenger at all. Where the window pillars are I have placed the passenger on the

aisle with two seats to increase the viewing angle to the passenger, as well it provides depth to make the car

look full with passengers.

Any seat location that is behind a pillar see red arrows I haven’t placed a figure.

For the blue 1st class interiors you

will notice that there are only three

rows of seats with 5.4mm distance

between armrests. Total = 26 seats.

For the green 2nd

class interiors you

will notice that there are four rows

of seats with 4.2mm distance

between armrests. Total = 36 seats.

The smaller seat size governs the

type of figure pose you can use.

I found for the 2nd

class seats I had to file on both sides of the figure to allow fitting the figure between the

armrests to get it seated correctly.



Final Passenger Locations

Please refer to final coach photos pages 26-30

Fig.1

Fig.2

Fig.3

Fig.4



Final Passenger Locations continued

Fig.5

Fig.6

Fig.7

This is a sneak preview of the finished project.



Using the Same Figures

Variation of colour on figures with the same pose as well as changing seat locations will help improve the

view of the passengers in the train to avoid repartition and monotony.

See painting_preiser_figures article.

See Seating Animation on my Tips page.

Car Steel Weights

When I opened the cars for this

project I found all the weights

had mild surface rust.

The rust was removed by

sanding the steel then painted

with a protection of cold-gal

paint.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/painting_preiser_figures.pdf

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/tips.html



Bar Car Painting and Light Assembly Support

I have already shown the lighting effects of the Bar car on page 16.

The Bar car is the only car where I painted the bar and table surfaces with a light brown colour and for the

seats the tops were painted dark blue.

I used a left over clear plastic building window and cut a mounting support for the PCB at the left end of the

car. At the red arrow location the interior detail was cut to provide back light for the standing couple. The

last cut was to allow the PCB mounting at the green arrows locations.

This was the first car where I was testing the PCB location and I made the PCB mounting too low, you can

see the heads of the passengers are too close to the lighting PCB.

I placed some packing pieces 1.6mm at the orange arrow locations of the PCB to raise the PCB to the correct

height held in place with hot melt glue before finally putting the body shell on.



Car Assembly Typical

The body shell for all cars is keyed so that it will only fit the base one way. The fan detail on the base must

be orientated towards the socket end of the body.

The interior detail is keyed at the socket of the body shell see red arrow above.

Clip on the wheel assembly with socket at the socket end of the body shell and

thread two wires into each slot with the hole.

Thread the plug wires through the slot on the plug end of the body shell

Orient the body shell close to the interior

details with the light assembly PCB. Make

sure the interior and body shell match.

Shorten the wires as required so you don’t

have excess wires to hide.

Caution this photo is orientated plug end

to the left.

Solder the wires to the light assembly PCB making sure the LED cathodes (black arrows) are orientated as

shown.

Ensure the red and brown wires are not crossed at each end of the PCB assembly.

Using a test plug and socket test the LEDs work with power. Use a multimeter to bell out the red and brown

wires at each end to ensure you have not crossed the wires when soldering them to the PCB.

Using hot melt glue the PCB light assembly to the interior detail.

Socket End Plug End



Car Assembly Typical continued

On the previous page you will notice that the window inserts haven’t been clipped back into the body shell

as this allows a trial fit of the interior with all passengers and light assembly with wiring to see if there are

any problems. Having the windows out allows easy inspection of the interior to see any oversights that may

have occurred. Any problems should be fixed before taking the next step.

Once I could see there were no problems I removed the body shell and fitted the windows making sure they

were clean and dust free.

Reinsert the interior making sure no wires are pinched and the interior fits well into the body. Add the car

steel weight as shown.

Caution: - This is the point of no return by clipping on the base plate, note orientation the car will be sealed

making opening once again difficult with the risk of breaking the holding tabs.

Files for TrainAnimator

The bonus file talgo_pendular.zip (167Kb) contains the files above.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/files/talgo_pendular.zip



Using the Talgo Night Train with TrainController

After some experimentation of a combination of Motorola addresses on the Talgo train I settled on having

the rear Generator car set to the same address as the locomotive pulling the train, in this case the dip

switches are set to address 40 (2,4,6,8) shown left photo. At the head car of the Talgo train pulled by the

locomotive the dip switches are set to address 65 (3, 6) shown right photo.

On page 11 this statement was made

“Please note for the rear car F0f is wired to the red LEDs and F0r is wired to the white LEDs.”

In use it means that if the locomotive is pulling the train the Talgo Generator car at the rear has red lights and

if the locomotive is pushing the train the Generator car which is now leading changes to white lights.

For the leading car I can independently have the front lights off or can select red or white. For some reason I

like to see the red lights on.

Extended Accessory Control

In my loco_speed_steps_extended_accessory article I explain how the extended accessories were designed.

On page 21 in the above article you can download a TrainController file for the extended accessories and

engine profiles. The supplied file can be freely used for private use if you find them useful.

From pages 20...35 in the above article I explain different control aspects with the train used in schedules

supported by a YouTube video with the link below.

See the Loco Speed Steps Demonstration on YouTube.

Duration = 10:18 minutes

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/loco_speed_steps_extended_accessory.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryP8W7jMlLU



Photos

The following photos are with the lights on at full brightness showing the right hand side then the left hand

side of each coach. All exposures are the same.

TA6-601053 with interior Fig.7 on page 20

TB6-602051 with interior Fig.6 on page 20



Photos continued

TB6-602052.1 with interior Fig.1 on page 19




Photos continued





Photos continued


TC6-606013



Photos continued

TB6z-608051

There is a total of 114 passengers where the various colours of the people and placement make the train

come to life on the layout with the bonus of even variable brightness LED lighting.

Final result of the train running on the layout.



Talgo Power Measurements

Description Voltage mA

High brightness voltage for LED lights 13.1 dc

Medium brightness voltage for LED lights 7.6 dc

High brightness current per car 2.71

Medium brightness current per car 1.26

Two decoders no lights 11.52

Two decoders with front lights only 16.25

Two decoders with rear lights only 16.30

Two decoders with front and rear lights 20.21

High brightness light current entire train 30.25

Medium brightness light current entire train 25.33

The power requirements for the Talgo train lighting are very small as can be seen in the above table.

Talgo Train Assembly

The instructions for the Talgo train provide an order of car assembly as shown above.

The physical assembly of the cars is quite simple to do. I assembled the cars into two groups of five cars on a

flat surface, then carefully lifted each group of cars and placed them on a straight track. To make the

electrical join of the two groups of cars there is enough length of wire to allow plugging the plug into the

socket with just my fingers then by carefully joining the two groups of cars together making sure the wires

are pushed back into the car. The last operation is to place the locomotive on the track and couple the train

and locomotive. Using tweezers the remaining plug on the wires is inserted into the socket on the locomotive.

Weights and Measures

The ten car set is 810 gm

The ten car train length is 149 cm

As always enjoy your model trains

Documents

Tip: Talgo Night Train with Variable Brightness LED lightingmembers.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/public_html/rms/pdf... · 2019. 4. 9. · Talgo train. To control the brightness of the