IN THE ARCTICChanges and challenges

Page :"You will meet a wonderful, but at the same time vulnerable place"

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LIVING IN THE ARCTIC

TOPOF THE WORLD

PHOTO: OLE MAGNUS RAPP

TOP 5 THINGS TO DOOn a budget without a gun

COAL COLLAPSEEnd of an era in Svalbard The disaster that altered Longyearbyen

DEADLY AVALANCHE

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LNSS operate from “Pole to Pole – around the world!"LNS Spitsbergen AS is a part of the LNS Group and is based in Spitsbergen. Besides operating in Spitsbergen the company also has many projects in other Arctic and Antarctic areas.

LNS Spitsbergen offers various services for companies operating in Spitsbergen. The list of services includes road construction, logistics, construction, transportation, drilling, repair shops and warehouses.

The company owns and operates the tank farms in Longyearbyen which provide gas and fuel, as well as bunkering of domestic and foreign vessels.

LNS Spitsbergen ASVei 605

9170 Longyearbyen

Telephone +47 79 02 49 50

e-mail: lnss-logistikk@lns.nowww.lns.no

Logistics support in the Arctic?

At our main location in Longyearbyen we in addition can help with:

· Terminal services · Warehousing · Cold storage · Container rental · Bunkering · Machine shop · Garage · Welding shop · Gas station · Car rental . Accomodation · Storage for food and vegetables · Outdoor storage of containers or other goods · Workshop for contracting equipment · Distribution of all kinds of equipment

For all this you need only one contact:

We want to be the preferred partner for logistics support in the Arctic

We can help you with shipping, transport, handling and distribution.

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The world’s northernmost car dealer is a Toyota dealer

Svalbard Auto

Toyota Hilux – The pickup for the Arctic

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�� This past year has been special in many regards for the people living in Longyearbyen. A largeavalanche hit on Dec. 19. This obviously affectedpeople here in many ways. One of them was thecatastrophe showed people have a great com-mitment, willingness to help and ability to standtogether. Unity and dedication describes well thepeople who live here.

The town you have come to is changing. The cornerstone company, Store Norske, has reduced operations sharply and made significant cutbacks in staff. This is a challenge that will require growth in other industries. Tourism, education, research and a greater variety of business are areas needing further development.

Innovation Norway has established a new office in town, and will help facilitate and stimulate innovation and growth. There is a need for en-trepreneurship, capital and government support for implementing new ventures to truly speed up new initiatives.

At The University Centre in Svalbard extensive and important international research is taking place, especially in the areas of the melting ice and climate change. This activity will further stimulate growth.

The number of tourists visiting Svalbard is increas-ing year by year. From 2014 to 2015, the number of commercial overnight stays rose by 11 percent. Efforts to facilitate more year-round tourism here, such as highlighting the best months to see the Northern Lights, is a draw for tourists from Norway and abroad that is already underway and will be intensified.

Development of the industry and tourism activi-ties in Svalbard's vulnerable nature requires good cooperation between authorities and operators. It is crucial those visiting Svalbard show respect for nature, and respect for those who live and reside here. 

We hope you get days of rich experiences in the High Arctic with everything the place has to offer in terms of exciting opportunities. You will meet a wonderful, but at the same time vulnerable place with people who care about the city, nature and society.

We wish you all a good time here!

Fantastic, but vulnerable

TOP OF THE WORLD is a magazine produced by Svalbard-posten, the world's northernmost newspaper.

The magazine is produced ac-cording to the Ethical Code of Practice for the Norwegian Press,

and the Rights and Duties of the Editor. Top of the World is free – for you as a visitor to Svalbard or inquirer about the Arctic.

The staff: Geir Barstein, Christopher Engås, Line Nagell Ylvisåker, Ole Magnus Rapp, Svein

Berg, Wenche Sørensen and Mark Sabbatini (language consultant).

Editor: Hilde Kristin Røsvik

Printer: Lundblad Media AS.– LIVING IN THE ARCTIC –

Next stop: The North Pole Page 32-33 Surfi n' Svalbard Page 36

Treasure hunt on 'Corpse Point' Page 40

Table of contents

No guns? No problem Page 10-11

The end of an eraPage 14

First Doomsday Vault withdrawal Page 12-13

Polar bear visits townPage 16-17

Disaster strikesPage 7-9

Taking out the trash Page 18Poles and polar bears Page 20Arctic dog is now Aussie cat Page 22-23Descent into darkness Page 24-25

Children of the ice Page 36

Booming BarentsburgPage 28-30

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OktoberfestThe world 's northernmost beer festival, with beers from around the world, lectures, entertainment and good cheer. Especially during the evening when the festival tent is filled with oompah music, singing and raised tankards.

When: Sept. 22-24

Svalbard SpacerunA tough uphill run from Long-yearbyen to Svalbard Satellite Station on top of the mountain Platåfjellet. With an eight-kilo-meter-long track and 400 meters elevation gain, you're guaranteed to break a sweat and feel the taste of blood in your mouth.

When: Aug. 27

Dark Season BluesThe dark nights are increasingly long and the landscape is cloaked in a distinctive blue color. This long weekend Longyearbyen is filled with music. Blues musici-ans from around the world have found their way to the festival, considered the biggest music event of the year. The concert

The days pass quickly in Svalbard. The same applies to the year, which is full of activities. Here are some

for the upcoming months:

scene is spread throughout the city, with the finale – a marathon concert on two stages featuring most of the artists – on Saturday. A jam session is also a regular part of the festival's program.

When: Oct. 27-30

KunstpauseArts and literature festival with exhibitions, concerts and lectures.

When: November

Christmas festivitiesFew places get into such a festive Christmas spirit as Svalbard. December is characterized by various Christmas activities and up in the former coal mine 2B

(his "real" workshop) Santa Claus is making his final preparations.

When: All of December

Svalbard seminarsSvalbard's researchers possess considerable knowledge about Svalbard. Weekly presentations focus on various themes from popular science to history – all Svalbard-related. Several of the presentations will be in English.

When: January 2017

PolarjazzThe jazz festival has established itself as a major musical event in the High North with an annual lineup of international musicians on stage. Jazz is the starting point, but many concerts encom-pass other genres. The festival starts with the "vorspiel," where musicians from Longyearbyen's rich music scene perform. The following days are the "profes-sional" concerts.

When: Feb. 2-5, 2017

SolfestukaThe polar night ends in February, but the sun doesn't shine in

Longyearbyen until March 8. This is celebrated with a week of events such as exhibitions, concerts, and various activi-ties for children and adults. It concludes on "sun day" with everyone gathering around the old hospital, where the very first sunbeam hits.

When: March 2017

Svalbard SkimaratonThe Svalbard Skimaraton is becoming increasingly popular, with almost 900 participants in 2016. The mood is euphoric and among the participants are champion cross-country skiers. The event ends with a banquet at Svalbardhallen.

When: April 29, 2017

Spitsbergen MarathonParticipation is growing

in the world's northernmost marathon. The course starts

in the center of Longyearbyen before proceeding out into

Adventdalen and Adventfjor-den. When: June 2017

Don't miss out on

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First there were fishermen, hunters, scientists and mining pioneers who saw opportunities in the Arctic. They traveled north to this stunningly beautiful land and established their activities. Activities that formed the basis for this exciting community and the fantastic platform Longyearbyen is today.

The active family community Here we find an international airport, international port, fiber-op-tic and broadband services, power plant, hospital, fire depart-ment, rescue services, research, education, good hotel capacity, public administration, logistical services, mining, building and construction, satellite station, tourism, school, kindergartens, restaurants, and culture and leisure.

Longyearbyen has also a number of volunteer groups and organi-zations. They organize events and festivals such as Dark Season Blues, Polarjazz, Spitsbergen Up and Down, Spitsbergen Marathon, and – not least – Svalbard Ski Marathon!

In other words, here you'll find just about everything. And EVERYTHING is world-class, on top of the world and within walk-ing distance.

As if that was not enough, Longyearbyen is strongly characterized

by a particularly pleasant, competent and international population that's highly engaged.

Business, research and higher educationLongyearbyen has a vibrant, exciting and diverse economy. Our unique position in the world gives us challenges, but also great opportunities. This has resulted in a business community in Longyearbyen that has a special competence in the Arctic. Road construction on glaciers, building foundations on permafrost, Arctic research and retrieval of data from polar-orbiting satellites are some of the examples our expertise and location has resulted in. The business community today is based on the key pillars of coal, tourism, research, education, space-related activities and Arctic logistics.

These will also be the key pillars going forward, as the city's Strategic Business Plan for the next 20 years shows. In addition, plans for further port development in Longyearbyen were com-pleted in 2014. The efforts are also powerful in ensuring a robust and sustainable tourism industry with a fascinating history here in the north.

The government has also indicated there will be a doubling of students engaged in university studies in Longyearbyen during the next few years. We educate Arctic guides through a one-year college course of study and are now starting a preparatory course for engineering students.

Longyearbyen's municipal governmentThe elected local council is the highest body of Longyearbyen's municipal government, which is responsible for the operation of all infrastructure in Longyearbyen not assigned to the state or oth-ers. Longyearbyen's government is also responsible for the school, kindergartens, library, sports hall, Galleri Svalbard and cultural center, and we have a good deal to offer younger people through a youth club and culture school.It is in this perspective that we argue Longyearbyen is the high- Arctic capital and this city is in position to become a developing center in the increased activity we see in the north.

Welcome to Longyearbyen!

The world’s northern most family community!

www.lokalstyre.no

Arild Olsen, leader of Longyearbyen Community Council

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seconds the Christmas cheer turned into chaos and terror. Alarms went off quickly and the first helpers came running to the scene after a few minutes, greeted by a seemingly insurmountable task.

"People came crying out of their homes, not knowing where their loved ones had gone," said Johannes Drægni, who was among the first to arrive at the disaster scene. "It was a surreal feeling."

He was the first to announce the disaster publicly. At 10:26 a.m. he sent the following message to a Facebook group followed by most people living in Longyearbyen in an attempt to mobilize the largest possible rescue operation:

"The houses have been taken by an avalanche!"

"We need avalanche dogs

and people to dig. People are missing."

About 100 volunteers re-sponded quickly with shovels, probe poles and headlamps to help the official rescue agencies at the scene.

Monumental effortThe situation was chaotic. Christmas was just around the corner and many had traveled down to the mainland for the holiday. But who? Which homes stood empty and which were people in? And where should you even start digging?

"It is not easy to just start digging into 5,000 tons of snow mixed with building materials,” said Christian Svarstad, a police chief lieutenant for The Go-vernor of Svalbard.

The chances of surviving an avalanche plunge as the clock is ticking. Time is the worst enemy.

Meanwhile, it was clear early on there was a risk of other avalanches along the entire east side of Longyearbyen. Within

a couple of hours an evacuation order was issued and at its peak about 200 people were forced to abandon their homes.

Two deadThe search for people trapped under the snow, ice and debris continued feverishly throughout the afternoon and evening. Several people were found alive and sent to hospital.

But for two residents it was too late.

Nikoline Røkenes was only two years old. Atle Kjartan Husby, a primary school teacher and father of three, was 42.

"It is with great sadness I have been following what has happened," Prime Minister Erna Solberg said in a statement after the disaster. " The avalanche and the horrific images have affected an entire country. Natural forces are strong in Norway. Two inn-ocent lives were torn away. This is a painful start to the holiday season for the entire Svalbard community."

The day that changed Svalbard

›› Geir Barstein

�� It was Dec. 19 and an unusually fine morning, with quiet after the fierce storm that ravaged Svalbard during the evening before and through the night.

Children were out playing in the huge amounts of snow that had blown in from Adventdalen while adults dug out cars and enjoyed themselves with the tranquility that descended in the beautiful dark season.

Then the avalanche hit. Without warning and without a sound, 5,000 tons of snow were released from the slope of Sukkertoppen just before 10:30 a.m. and swept away a whole neighborhood along Vei 230. Eleven of Longyearbyen’s landmark pointed-roof houses were crushed and buried. Within

Two people were killed when a huge avalanche smashed into 11 landmark houses just before Christmas last year.

CATASTROPHE: The avalanche hit with a force that suprised even avalanche scientists. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

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›› Eirik Palm

�� Jan Olav Sæter, 44, had just put on some coffee, while Anne Kristin, 45, was preparing breakfast.

The night before it had snowed and the winds had blown hard, and up on the hillside they could see huge snowdrifts had built up. They talked about it while they looked up through the window.

Meanwhile, their son, Jørgen, 11, shouted good morning from the upstairs loft. He wanted scrambled eggs for breakfast and Anne Kristin started making some. Then it happened.

"I was standing to the left side

of the window, barefoot and in a bathrobe," Anne Kristin said.

"Then I felt a trembling in the floor. I looked down and thought 'wow.' And then, in a fraction of a second, I perceived something white in the corner of my eye. It was just as though my brain had realized it, because I had seen the snowdrift."

She received a hard blow on the left shoulder and the kitchen was filled with snow. Then she was gone. The snow brought with it the window and kitchen wall, and continued into the living room.

"'It's a slab avalanche,' I thought," Jan Olav said. He knew the house was being swamped and

thought of Anne in the kitchen."I was convinced that life was

over," he said. "The floor slam-med up and I was thrown into the corner. Then it was pitch black." The living room was demolished, the floor was pushed up to 45 degrees at the ceiling, and there

was an inferno of snow, materials and sharp edges.

Two cars ended up inside the house.

He heard the crying of Jørgen on the second floor and managed to get out of the living room.

Inside the kitchen, on broken

DESTROYED: Eleven houses were hit by the massive avalanche and moved over large distances. One house was found 80 meters from its original position. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

GRATEFUL: Jan Olav Sæter, Anne Kristin Jakobsen and their son survived the avalanche. "There are so many coincidences that allowed us both to be sitting here right now," Jan Olav says. PHOTO: EIRIK PALM

'Oh my God, this is how I'm going to die'

Anne Kristin Jakobsen was making breakfast when the avalanche came smashing through the family home. A microwave oven saved her life.

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crockery and jammed against the dishwasher and kitchen sink, Anne Kristin regained awareness.

Over her was a half meter of pack snow and a sharp edge was cutting into her thigh. Her right arm was in a position over her head, which made it possible to dig. She was aware that she had little time.

'How much air do I have'"I knew that the first 15 minutes after an avalanche are critical. How much air do I have? I felt panic and began shouting. Then my thoughts fell on Jørgen. Oh my God!"

The kitchen was completely filled with tons of avalanche snow and there was little more than half a meter of space up to the ceiling.

"One says that life passes by in review, but I made myself think about the status of things. It alternated between panic and calm," she said.

The house had been moved

50 to 60 meters down from its foundation. The neighboring house was partially crushed.

AlarmOutside, Jan Olav could see a snowmobile sled and storage container in front of the balcony.

"I shouted 'Jørgen, Dad is coming. It'll all be OK!' I stood on a crate and got up on the balcony and got myself into his room," Jan Olav said.

The 11-year-old was in shock and they searched for some clothes to wear before they climbed out.

When he looked down he suspected the worst.

"I went down the stairs and shouted where the kitchen was. There were such large drifts that no one could have survived, and so for me that meant Anne was dead. We had to get out. I cal-led the emergency number and sounded the alarm."

Logs shows that the call was made at 10:26 a.m.

'She is breathing!'Down in the snow, the pain of the cold was unbearable. Having dug around a little, Anne Kristin faced something familiar – a hard surface above her head and to the left. It was the door of the mi-crowave, and she struck it again and again until she was bleeding in the hope that someone would hear the sound. It was the only thing she could do.

"I thought 'Oh my God, this is how I'm going to die,'" she said.

When she stopped banging on the door, it was quiet.

She continued to pound. Some time after – how long

she does not know – she heard a sound. Then it disappeared.

"Eventually I realized that it was the sound of shovels."

In the meant ime, her boyfriend's cell phone rang: "Jan Olav, we have signs of life!" Then there was a pause. A short time later the phone rang again: "She is breathing!"

"And suddenly I could see light. It was like being born again!" Anne Kristin said.

A total of 38 minutes had pas-sed when she finally made contact

with rescue workers."Oh my God. They were an-

gels," Anne Kristin said, adding: "They asked if I could walk. I could have done so if needed. The adrenaline was so high."

Outside hundreds of lights were shining and everything was chaos. She understood nothing about what had happened and was driven to the hospital in an ambulance.

UnimportantJanuary 11. Anne Kristin is serving coffee in the living room of an apartment at Elvesletta. "There are so many coincidences that allowed us both to be sitting here. You see how small the margins are."

"One is left with mixed fe-elings," she said. "One is pleased that we rescued ourselves, but at the same time it is so sad that two were killed."

Their family is grateful for everything.

"The whole community has been involved in a phenomenal way. This is our island. I am proud to be from this city," Anne Kristin added.

MEMORIAL: Lights and flowers outside the avalanche-hit area on Christmas Eve. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

SURVIVED: Anne Kristin was buried here, under one and a half meters of deep snow, for 38 minutes. PHOTO: JAN OLAV SÆTER

We also have winter clothes for children.Open daily, also on your request.

Phone: 79 02 10 48 / Birgit 954 41 200

*Knitwear shop.*Taxfree prices.

*Pure wool or wool with silk.

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›› Geir Barstein

1. Take a round-trip of townStart in the city center and walk up the valley to Nybyen, a collection of barracks built after World War II for workers in Mine 2B.

If you look up to the left, you can still see the surface installation to the mine up the mountainside. Rumor has it Santa’s workshop is inside and every winter local children leave their letters to him in a special mailbox placed at the base.

After visiting Nybyen, take the road that crosses the valley over to the legendary Huset, which for generations has been a favorite meeting place for Svalbardites. Today it houses a concert hall, a pub and, not least, a prestigious eatery with a huge wine cellar. Many meals based on those liquids have taken place

here over the years.On the way down towards the

town again you will see the white crosses at one of Longyearbyen’s two grave sites. The cemetery was established in August of 1917 and include the tombs of seven

people who died of Spanish f lu during an epidemic in the years that followed.

Past that is Svalbard Chur-ch, opened in 1958 after the original church burned down during the German bombing

raids during World War II.A little further down the

road you see on the left a strange metallic building standing on high stilts.

This is the cable car center, a hub where coal was transported from the mines and then on to the shipping dock. Many of the old cableway trestles are still around the hillsides today.

2. Visit the museumFor a thorough introduction to Svalbard’s culture, history, nature and research, Svalbard Museum is worth a visit. Here you can get everything from an evocative glimpse of the solitary trapper’s existence to a close encounter with a rather large polar bear (which fortunately is of the stuffed kind).

The museum also examines some of the truly great myste-ries that surround the island.

Five things to do – unarmed

Polar bears obviously add some restrictions for traveling alone outside the settlements. But fortunately there are still plenty of other (cheap) things to do inside the safety of Longyearbyen's city limits.

"THE HOUSE": Huset has been a meeting place on Svalbard for generations. PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER ENGÅS

REINDEER: You don't need to go on lengthy expeditions to see wildlife roaming on Svalbard. Try an adventure in the city streets! PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

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For example, what really happened to that fateful and mysterious Andrée Expedition in 1897?

3. Indulge in a cultural feastIf taking the round trip in section one, a trip to Galleri Svalbard in Nybyen is an excel-lent fit.

In addition to changing art exhibitions, the gallery has a permanent collection of Kåre Tveter’s gorgeous paintings

with Arctic designs. You can also soak up some history in the exhibition of old Svalbard bank-notes – a distinctive currency used here on the island in the tough old days – and old maps made by the first adventurers.

4. Be mesmerized by the viewThe landscape and view on Svalbard can be spectacular.

This is best enjoyed from heights, and is fully achievable without arming yourself and

taking the sometimes breakneck trips to the mountaintops.

Navigate or ask your way to Vei 232 and follow it up as far as it goes.

At the end is the water tower for Longyearbyen, where you’ll find a lovely view over parts of the city and Adventfjorden.

5. Follow the shoreFollow the roads against the fjord and you will eventually find Sjøområdet – Longyearbyen’s

KING OF THE ARCTIC: Get up close with a large – and luckily stuffed – polar bear at Svalbard Museum. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

CHILLING: Walruses are not an uncommon sight on the beaches of Longyearbyen. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

DUT Y FREE GOLD, SILVER, WATCHES, SVALBARD SOUVENIRS ETC.· Svalbard watch from Bruvik Time, Norwegian design – Swiss made

· Handmade Svalbard jewelry: necklaces, rings, earrings in gold/silver· Svalbard map necklace gold/silver

· FlygelDiamonds· Julie Sandlau/Sif Jakobs/Huldresølv/Farmhouse design

· Modalu - purses & handbags· DW/Bering/Triwa

We are located at Lompensenteret – Welcome

own shoreline. It hardly invites bikinis and pinã coladas during the summer (even though swim-ming is possible, see p. 37), but the shore is particularly suitable for strolling with the bay and the majestic Hiorthfjellet in the background.

If you are lucky there will be beluga whales splashing playfully around in herds or a walrus enjoying the good life on the waterfront. Just remember to keep a safe distance.

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War-ravaged Syria became the first country to get help from the Seed Vault. Mission: To replenish its destroyed crops.

›› Christopher Engås

�� The inventory of seeds in Aleppo, Syria, was damaged last year by the ongoing war. This prompted the International Centre for Agricultural Research in Dry Areas (ICARDA) to send

a request to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, often just referred to as the Doomsday Vault.

A total of 116,000 seeds the same organization previously had deposited in the vault were sent back to Syria to replenish the damaged agricultural sector

of the country. Among the seeds were dif-

ferent types of wheat, barley and grass for cattle to graze on.

This is the first withdrawal from the vault and hence the first time the world can see it fulfilling its purpose.

the Doomsday VaultFirst withdrawal from

THE ENTRANCE: The Svalbard Global Seed Vault has become an attraction for tourists. PHOTO: MARI TEFRE

TURUTSTYR AV HØY KVALITET SIDEN 1908

EKSTREM TURGLEDEbergans.no

FRED

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Tourist attractionSince the Svalbard Global Seed Vault opened on Feb. 26, 2008, it has become one of the biggest tourist attractions in Longyear-byen.

Not that the vault in itself is much to see – it is merely a concrete slap with steel doors and some artwork at the top. There are no regular tours into the vault.

It is the significance of the vault in a much bigger perspective that attracts tourists.

To be able to say that one has been outside the vault, that one has been there, has become a virtue in itself.

To supplement this, tourists can get a more thorough impres-sion of this significant piece and architecture through a replica of the vault on display at Svalbard Museum.

Long time in the makingWorld scientists involved in the effort to protect genetic diversity began looking towards Norway and Svalbard more than 25 years ago.

At that time, plans for a seed vault came to a halt due to lack of funding. There was also an

insufficient international legal framework for the exchange of seeds between nation states.

After the International Treaty on Plan Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture was adopted by the Food and Agri-culture Organization (FAO) and the United Nations, many began to look once again towards

Svalbard. Norway received a request

from the Consultative Group for International Agricultural Research (CGIAR) to once again consider the possibility of establishing a safety stock of seeds in Svalbard.

Seeing into the futureFrom this point, things happened quickly.

Norway presented a study on

the suitability of Svalbard for such a project to a meeting of the Comission for Genetic Resources of the FAO in October of the same year.

The commission recommen-ded the initiative and Norway received broad international encouragement to proceed with the plans.

In May of 2006, the Nor-wegian government decided the Svalbard Global Seed Vault should be built, and the plan-ning process started almost immediately.

The completed facility consis-ts of the concrete portal building which gives access through the mountain, first through a tunnel of corrugated steel tube and then a tunnel blasted in the inner part.

The innermost part, the freezer vault itself, is divided into three equal-sized caverns of 9.5 by 27 meters, of which the middle cavern is being made use of first.

The entire facility is con-structed in a part of the perma-frost which is not affected by temperature variations.

500,000 typesSo what does the Svalbard Global

Seed Vault contain eight years after its opening?

With more than half a mil-lion types of seeds it is already the largest seed collection on the planet.

Author Pål Hermansen de-scribes the impression of the interior well in his book "Seeds to the World," published in 2013:

"This is a journey from country to country, through geography and history.

Here are myriads of boxes of rice varieties from IRRI (Inter-national Rice Research Institute) in the Philippines, stacks of boxes from the American and Cana-dian agricultural authorities, and plastic containers from Taiwan, followed by some of the world's most important corn treasures from Mexico and Brazil.

In the shelf on the opposite side there are red wooden boxes from North Korea, and a signif-ficant number of cardboard boxes from the research institute in Aleppo in Syria (...) it's a relief that the genetic treasures from the cradle of our civilization are safely stored in the shelves here 150 meters under the ground in Svalbard," he writes.

Fjällräven Norrøna Devold Alfa - Asics - Bergans - Kari Traa

Jotunheim - Johaug - Bliz - Carite - Tufte Ulvang Didriksons - Arena - Adidas - Buff Hestra- Merrell

Timberland - Lowa - Sulman - Stanley - Primus

at Lompensenterettel: +47 79 02 32 50

Svalbard

Phot

o: S

vein

Ber

g

A journey from country to country

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›› Geir Barstein

�� The future of the cornerstone ming company Store Norske is extremely uncertain, with con-siderable worry about whether mining can be done profitability.

As a consequence, the state-owned company has suffered record losses and been through several rounds of downsizing.

Only 100 employees will be left by this fall, compared to about 400 in 2012, in line with coal prices that have been in free fall.

Mines on ice Store Norske is currently still operating at two places in Svalbard: Mine 7, located about 10 kilometers outside Longyear-byen, and at the small settlement of Svea a bit further south.

The latter is soon empty, and Store Norske was planning to start up production in a new mine, Lunckefjell, to take over the baton.

It was not to be. Despite investing one billion kroner to construct the mine, Lunckefjell

was put on ice shortly after it opened in early 2014.

Actual mining at Svea has ceased, and when the harvested coal is processed and shipped after this summer operations will be put on hold there for up to three years.

Uncertain futureUnless a miraculous change in coal prices occur, many fear that essentially means the final nail in the coffin for Svea.

The Norwegian government admits there is a "low probability" it will be commercially rational to resume production during or following the operational rest period.

"Future prospects look very uncertain," the government wrote in its recently revised "white paper" for Svalbard, which outlines Norway’s primary policy objectives for the archipelago.

Operations in Mine 7 are continuing, primarily because it is the source of energy for Longyearbyen and Norway's only coal power plant. That ensures production will continue

at least until an alternative energy solution for the town is in place, which will likely take a long time.

New horizonsWhat happens next? Nobody knows for certain, except the Svalbard community is now facing a major restructuring process.

There is no one industry or company that stands ready to take over the position as the cornerstone of Norway’s

presence in Svalbard, but there are now more legs that may be possible to stand on.

Tourism and research are among them. In addition, com-pletely new possibilities such as establishing fish processing facilities based in the archipelago are being studied.

Collapse of the mines

After many blazing hot years, the coal mining adventure in Svalbard – the community pillar for generations – is coming to an abrupt end.

PHOTO: OLE MAGNUS RAPP

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LEAVE A POSITIVE FOOTPRINTOur own Basecamp Foundation was established alongside the commercial side, Basecamp Explorer. Since the beginning we have partnered closely with the Maasai people to develop a better future. Together with our quests, we build hospitals, provide clean water and education, plant trees, and save cheetahs. Just to mention a few. By joining Basecamp trips, you join our mission to leave a positive footprint. At Spitsbergen we offer a selection of trips in summer and winter time to our unique destinations. For bookings visit our Basecamp Hotel in the hearth of Longyearbyen or read more at our website www.basecampexplorer.com.

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City bear drugged, airlifted

›› Geir Barstein

�� The polar bear danger in Svalbard is real. They can pop up without warning – anywhere and anytime.

Longyearbyen got a powerful reminder of this at the end of April when a polar bear suddenly appeared and decided to relax on the beach, a stone’s throw from the city center, right in the middle of the day.

The visit came as a surprise to everyone, including The Go-vernor of Svalbard who had to seek expert assistance to handle the situation.

"It came as a surprise to us, that it had come so close without being spotted in advance," said

Christian Svarstad, a police chief lieutenant for the governor.

Keep your guard upHe said the incident underscores the importance of being prepared and vigilant, even on short trips just outside the settlement.

“Many lower their guard when they are right outside Longyear-byen and I think people got an ‘a-ha’ experience,” Svarstad said. “Suddenly the bear appeared, and we saw how hard they can be to spot.”

The bear, a three-year-old male, was in no hurry to move on, laying quietly on the shore as it watched the commotion and snowmobile traffic nearby. For reasons related to the animal’s

Without warning, a 240-kilogram male polar bear appeared near Longyearbyen in broad daylight.

safety, it was decided to drug and fly him to the east coast where there is more sea ice and fewer people.

While polar bears enjoy a statutory right of way in the wild in Svalbard, an exception is made if they become comfortable near the settlements.

Young and braveJon Aars, a polar bear scientist at the Norwegian Polar Institute, said the young bear making a visit near the city was unusually brave

when faced with people.“He was very calm,” Aars said.

“We had to approach him closely with a helicopter before he stood up. It would have been difficult to chase him away.”

“He's a young bear and may not have learned respect for people or helicopters yet,” he added.

The bear fell asleep shortly after being hit by a tranquilizer dart in his hindquarters. He was loaded aboard one of the governor’s two rescue helicopters and flown to Kinnvika on the is-land of Nordaustlandet. Whether he returns to Longyearbyen – as some bears do despite being moved so far away - remains to be seen.

“We have experience with some of them returning, and cases of ‘problem bears’ that are moved but come back and continue with their mischief,” Aars said.

He may not have learned respect for people yet

SHOT FROM ABOVE: Polar bear experts swooped in with a helicopter and tranquilized the bear that came too close for comfort to Longyearbyen. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

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›› Geir Barstein

�� During the summer of 2015 the Norwegian Polar Institute conducted the first census of polar bears in Svalbard since 2004. The results are encou-raging, with an estimated 975 bears in the archipelago. The population during the previous census was 685.

“The bears were in good shape,” said Jon Aars, a polar bear researcher with the insti-tute.

Encouraging results from polar bear census after hunting ban.

The reason for the good popu-lation and health of the bears is likely due to exceptionally good sea ice conditions during the winter of 2014-15.

“They got a good supply of food,” Aars said. “But if there are many consecutive years of poor ice conditions it can have serious consequences for them.”

It’s not surprising the popula-tion is going up despite a trend of less ice cover in the Arctic. The numbers are still evening out after years of shooting on sight.

“Before the bears were pro-tected 40 years ago, they got hunted,” Aars said. “The popu-lation was at a low level because of that.”

More, not less

CUTE: A female polar bear relaxes with here three cubs. PHOTO: M. SCHÜTZ

While a full year probably seemed pretty long for the fi rst few who settled down on Svalbard, it has nothing to do with the name Longyearbyen. The town is named after its founder, the American coal tycoon John Munroe Longyear (1850-1922).

Did you know…

Gruvelageret is a brand new restaurant at a historical part of the city. The building is a former warehouse for the mining company.

We have restored the building and made it into a unique place for dining. The interior represents 100 years of coal mining at Svalbard and the kitchen focuses on Arctic cuisine.

At Gruvelageret we will show you the history of Svalbard and Longyearbyen, combined with good food and beverage in a nice atmosphere right beneath the Longyear glacier. All booking in advance. Please reserve your table at www.gruvelageret.no or call +47 79 02 20 00

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›› Geir Barstein

�� The beach cleanup cruise is barely underway when the queen of the Arctic announces her arrival on a beach on northern Spitsbergen.

Several large clearing bags are full of garbage when the epitome of a wild and untouched Svalbard comes along the shoreline.

"Everyone in the boat!"The teams retreat out into the

polar waters and the well-fed-bear tramples onward, without caring about the old Tuborg trawl floats or many, many meters of packing strips collected into one place within just a few minutes.

Overflowing with garbagePerhaps it's because she's become well-accustomed to the sight: Many of Svalbard's beaches are overflowing with garbage and human fingerprints, no matter how far one ventures from a sett-

lement. Plastic bottles, sandals, lighters, cords, German milk cartons, rubber ducks, and fuel bottles. Trawl balls, fish boxes, parts from a conveyor belt and countless webbing straps.

"It comes from all over the world, but the fishing industry along the local coastline is the main culprit," says Arild Lys-sand, the expedition's leader and a police chief lieutenant for The Governor of Svalbard.

Every year they bring local volunteers around Svalbard to tidy up beaches.

A death trapOld nets, yarns and ropes are obvious death traps. An animal that gets its antlers or an ear tag snared into the large and heavy materials are at risk of suffering a protracted and painful fate.

It nearly happened two years ago when a bear was found with about 170 kilograms of fishing

net clinging to its head. Reindeer have been observed

tied together in tandem, and countless fish and birds have lost their lives to the nylon strands that continue to "ghost fish" for many centuries.

"We suggested that some representatives from the fishing industry join us on this trip, to see what floats up here. But no one came," Lyssand says.

Small pieces, big problemBut the debris doesn't have to be large to be fatal or harmful. Once the female bear is a safe distance away, work continues on the beach. At first glance, it may look fairly clean and pretty, but a closer look tells a different story.

Between the rocks, seal carcas-ses and driftwood there are a huge number of small plastic pieces of all colors. It's impossible to pick them all up.

During a hard day's work, the cleanup teams working in two shifts fill 14 so-called big bags with junk.

"And this was not even the worst beach I've ever seen. We picked up what we saw, but there

is so much more that is buried under rocks and driftwood," says Solvår Reiten, an advisor for the governor's environmental department.

Tip of the iceberg Most of the waste is plastic. Once it is in the wild it won't disappear by itself.

The problem just takes on other forms. Large plastic crates become brittle like biscuits in the sun, break up into pieces, and get ingested by microorganisms, fish, birds and other animals.

"An investigation revealed plastic in the stomach of 90 percent of fulmars surveyed in Svalbard. The pieces are blocking their absorption of nutrients and they can die," Reiten says.

Because the animals obviously can't digest plastic, it accumulates and makes its way up the food chain - including the thousands of polar bears roaming this part of the Arctic.

"Almost nine million tons of trash end up in the oceans every year. Most of it sinks. What we can see on the beaches is only a small fraction," Reiten says.

The Arctic wilderness on Svalbard is far away from the 'real' world. But sad signs from it are washing up everywhere.

TRASHY BLONDE: Garbage from all over the world ends up on Svalbard's beaches, endangering the whole ecosystem. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

Taking out the trash

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lives of the miners and workers who founded this community, we maintained the authenticity of the old wooden barracks. That’s why Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg has soul, a distinct character and also

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Aurora Spa, drive snow mobile or your own dog sled in the Arctic wilderness!Aurora Spa, drive snow mobile or your own dog sled in the Arctic wilderness!Aurora Spa, drive snow mobile or your own dog sled in the Arctic wilderness!

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›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� The station in Isbjørnhamna ("Polar Bear Harbor") is staffed with a crew of 11 or 12. The Poles engage in high quality research in areas such as magnetism, ocean currents, aurora, geophysics, seismology and meteorology.

Much of their work has been going on for a long time. Polish researchers have followed the glacier Hansbreen in Hornsund since 1957 and are gathering data automatically every half hour.

"Hansbreen is the world’s most studied glacier," said Prof. Piotr Glowacki of the Geophysical

Institute of the Polish Academy of Sciences. He has been a rese-archer in Hornsund for 30 years and has eye-catching data.

"In 30 years the glacier retrea-ted 1,600 meters back and the average thickness was reduced by 50 meters," he said. “In recent years the glacier’s volume decrea-sed by approximately 50 million cubic meters each year.”

The Polish station located at the southern end of the archi-pelago is mostly isolated in the

Polish scientists have been gathering important natural knowledge about Svalbard from its base in Hornsund for nearly 60 years.

winter. During that time there is a small but thriving community, where Polish cuisine, culture and traditions are kept alive.

At least once a year there is a Catholic Mass at the cross at Wilczekodden next to the sta-tion. The priest of the Catholic church in Tromsø participates in collaboration with Svalbard Church. The area is right in the polar bears’ migration route and therefore the customary armed polar bear guards stand watch.

Poles and polar bearsWATCHFUL EYE: Prof. Piotr Glowacki (center) has followed the glacier Hansbreen for 30 years. It has steadily retreated. PHOTO: O. M. RAPP receded 1,600 meters and become sig nificertly thinner. FOTO: EIRIK PALM

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TOP OF THE WORLD 21

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Little Russia on Svalbard: It’s just next door

Russian settlements on Svalbard since the 18th century Pyramiden – being back to the USSR – our Arctic time machine

Barentsburg – a place full of interesting storiesFamous Russian cuisine and traditional Russian handicrafts

Unique nature and unique people

Take your time. Feel at home with us. Photos by Sergey Dolya

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Dog from Svalbard is now Cat in Australia

A NEW START: Cat was born in the Arctic and had a short career pulling dogsleds. Now he enjoys lazy days in Australia where hunting possums is one of her favorite passtime activities. PHOTO: PRIVATE

›› Christopher Engås

�� Svalbard's largest dog ken-nel, Green Dog Svalbard, retires numerous dogs every year.

Some have become too old to continue the life they love, namely to run with the team. At that point it's good to have a dignified retirement.

"Some dogs who can not pull the sled anymore still have much left to give as family pets," said Martin Munck, a co-founder and guide at the company. "So far we have managed to reallocate all of our fresh 'retirees.'"

Munck and his partner Karina Bernlow maintain contact with the retirees' new owners, adding stories about the dogs' new life to their company's website. Green Dog has a special arrangement with those who acquire the dogs.

"They must be willing to come back with the dog if it turns out that things aren't going well," Munck said. "And the dogs are welcome to be with us when the new owners are going on vacation, if they still live in Svalbard."

The latter is not a given. Some dogs who have worked at Green Dog are in completely different

It's hard work being a sled dog in Svalbard. Fortunately, many of the four-footed laborers are enjoying a very fine retirement.

In Ny-Ålesund at 79o N we have facilitated nature and climate research for more than 50 years

TOP OF THE WORLD 23

places today. Cat the dog, for example, is living the good life in Australia.

Svalbardposten sought out to hear her story, after leaving the hard pack life of the sledding business.

Hurt legsShe is now owned by Sue Werner and Henrik Løvendahl, who live in Blue Mountains outside Sydney in Australia.

When the pair worked at Green Dog during the winter season in 2012-13 they found a friend who would join them at home.

In a letter, they write the following about her new life as a possum hunter "down under."

"Cat was just a puppy when we got to the kennel and we established contact very quickly.

She hung around Sue's feet and showed that she was wary of being sent back to the kennel when that happened.

Cat was enthusiastic and loved to run, but hurt her hind legs after her first sledding trip. She got to rest up a bit so she could go again, but then it happened again.

Martin then suggested that

her career as a sled dog was over and that we had to find a new home for her.

We had Cat in our cabin while she recovered from the injuries and became fond of the little bitch. Finally, we asked Martin if we could take her.

His first reaction was that we were traveling home to Australia. But he went along with it and after a few months the dog accompa-

GREEN DOG: Karina Bernlow and Martin Munck offer retired sled dogs to families who want a pet. PHOTO: L. N. YLVISÅKER

nied us on our long journey.Now Cat is living with us

outside Sydney. She has a large exercise yard where she digs holes and chases possums. She still likes to pull and drag us often around.

She is housebroken and enjoys lying in our bed (but not when

we're there). She is very good with children, but definitely has ambitions to become the alpha female in the neighborhood. That has resulted in two veterinary bills for us…

We love Cat and are thankful that she got to be ours."

OLD LIFE: Cat as a dog on Svalbard. PHOTO: PRIVATE

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Assemblin AS Spitsbergen, 9171, Longyearbyen, phone +47 79 02 35 09 www.assemblin.com

TOP OF THE WORLD24

›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� Outside it is at least 25 de-grees Celsius below zero. Under the thick ice the temperature is around zero.

Headlamps illuminate beau-tiful crystals covering the roof. The walls are full of frozen gravel and the blue ice is decorated with slow-growing icicles.

The floor is smooth and low ceilings require crawling in some places.

During the warm season meltwater digs into the moraine masses under glaciers. Plenty of such activity has occurred here, creating a network of caves that can be explored during the winter.

Cool artIce caves have become a new win-ter business in Svalbard. Several companies arrange cave tours to several different glaciers and visitors are left with unexpected

Like a polar bear disappears in her den,we visit the strange world deep inside a glacier.

impressions of the harsh polar landscape.

“The ice crystals are beautiful,” says Ando Megumi, a visitor from Japan on a pre-honeymoon with her boyfriend Ito Kenichi.

“A beautiful discovery. Totally awesome. Each of the millions of crystals are different,” says Kirsten Broch Mathisen and Camilla Schreiner from Oslo.

Yann Rashid, the guide for this tour, came to Svalbard as a biology student and after graduation eventually became a tour guide.

“This glacier is almost com-pletely still,” he says. “It moves perhaps one meter per summer. The conditions are stable.”

ClaustrophobicPeople with more than a litt-le claustrophobia are advised against ice caving. Even those with limited mobility will find it difficult to make their way. The tours require some climbing

and a bit of crawling. Cave tours aren’t particularly demanding physically, as guides offer tips and keep the pace casual.

The entrance is spectacular. After a 15-minute snowmo-bile ride from Longyearbyen the guide stops on an almost flat surface.

He removes a wooden board from the entrance and here emerges the start of our voyage under the ice.

DarknessWe are equipped with snowmo-bile suits and large winter boots. Before the entrance of the cave everyone dons a light helmet and headlamp.

The journey down into the cave is one of the tour’s most dramatic moments. Where does this end? How long should one avoid sliding?

Can we get back up again? Under the ice, the temperature

suddenly increases significantly. The degree of coldness disappears the further we move into the meltwater channels of the ice.

The roof is covered with ice crystals in awesome hexagonal patterns. They chime like the fine glasses when helmets bump the crystals.

CarefulRashid asks us to be cautious.

“Don’t destroy the magni-ficent crystals. Tilt your head, let nature’s f ine art remain untouched.”

A two-meter-high cliff brings us down into one of the channels and the guide takes the lead inward. The headroom shrinks

Descent into darkness

DOWNWARD: Several glaciers have ice caves can be accessed from above. This one is on Scott Turnerbreen, a short snowmobile ride from town. PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

Where does this end?

TOP OF THE WORLD 25

and we almost crawl before a new room appears.

Headlamps illuminate the beautiful icicles along with the old glacier in soft colors between gray and blue.

Melting glaciersThe journey comes to a halt at the head of a channel, where the guide tells visitors about the melting processes and different types of glaciers.

Some glaciers can move several hundred meters a year, while others are still or retreating.

The thickness and volume of most glaciers in Svalbard is decreasing, while the meltwater rivers – and therefore channels – are increasing.

Geologists and cave experts have evaluated “our” glacier and found the caves safe in winter.

“Shut off your headlamps,” the guide suggests.

We do so and the darkness

Descent into darkness

becomes almost more than total. We relight our lamps and go back out hunched over double.

ICE ART: The ceiling is covered by beautiful ice crystals. Pictured from the left: Yann Rashid, Camilla Schreiner and Kirsten Broch Mathisen. PHOTO: OLE MAGNUS RAPP

ADVENTURE: Ito Kenichi from Japan came to Svalbard to see the Northern Lights, but was at least as fascinated by the ice caves. PHOTO: OLE MAGNUS RAPP

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Svalbard Maxi Taxi have both regular taxis and minibuses with varying passenger capacity of 1-16 passengers. Larger groups in cooperation with our sister company Svalbard Busservice AS. The company also approved special transport of wheelchairs and has a capacity of 2 wheelchair userssimultaneously. We also have regular scheduled sightseeing tours2 times per day.

Sightseeing/Taxi

Svalbard Maxi Taxi AS Tel: +47 79021305 P.O.Box 172, 9171 Longyearbyen

›› Quick facts: Glaciers

• About 60 percent of Svalbard is covered by glaciers, totaling approxi-mately 36,600 square kilometers covered by ice. In comparison, all the glaciers in mainland Norway comprise 2,692 square kilometers.

• The largest glacier in Svalbard, Europe’s largest, is Austfonna in Nordaustlandet, which is 8,450 square kilometers.

• Most glaciers in Svalbard are decreas-ing in mass and retreating. A few glaciers are increasing and advanc-ing rapidly.

• Longyearbreen, located just south of Longyearbyen, is approximately 4.5 kilometers long and among Svalbard’s smallest glaciers. The glacier is a widely used laboratory for scientists from many countries.

Store norske leksikon / Svalbardposten

TOP OF THE WORLD26

Svalbard Airport LongyearYour entrance to the Arctic

Tel: + 47 67 03 54 00 e-mail: post@avinor.nowww.avinor.no/lufthavn/svalbard

We connect to Norway by regular flights. Office, storage, meeting and workrooms available whether you have a scientific need, are going on an expedition or have cargo to store

Accessible by chartered flights

Photo: Svein Berg

TOP OF THE WORLD 27

Children of the iceWould you let your kid camp outside with the polar bears? Growing up on Svalbard isn't like other places.

›› Christopher Engås

�� Svalbard is all about the outdoors, no matter how old or young you are. So when local kids of all ages got the opportunity to spend a night with their pals in Bjørndalen (Bear Valley) outside Longyearbyen, protected by polar bear guards, they didn't say no.

"We had 27 tents and about 70 people in the camp, including two who slept outside under the open sky," said Silje M. Hagen, project leader for Aktiv i Friluft, a local initiative to get people out and about.

The event was part of the national project "Night in Na-ture," aimed at getting 50,000 Norwegians to ditch their normal bedroom for the night.

"It is absolutely wonderful that so many participated in Night of Nature in Svalbard," said Lill Haugen, a communi-cations advisor for Norwegian Outdoor Life, which coordina-ted the event.

"It is exotic for us southerners to hear about polar bears and temperatures near freezing in September. Svalbardites must be among the nation's toughest."

On the plain next to the river in Bjørndalen, a few hundred meters from where the road ends in the valley, a large grill was set up and a bonfire lighted. While a group was guided up the Fuglefjella bird cliff, the children sat and enjoyed themselves with reading provided by Roy Martin Kristiansen from Longyearbyen Library.

Two that are definitely aware of the qualities of getting daily rest in the outdoors are sisters Tiril and Ronja Hermansen from Longyearbyen.

"We've slept outside on the balcony since April," Tiril told

Svalbardposten while her family was eating dinner in Bjørndalen.

"They just take their sleeping bags out on the balcony and settle on some mattresses we have there," said Maiken Hermansen, the sisters' mom.

TOUGH KIDS: There were plenty of small children among the 70 who spent the night in tents in Bjørndalen. Silje M. Hagen (to the left), the leader of a local initiative to get people to enjoy the outdoors more, is very happy with the number of participants. PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER ENGÅS

RUGGED: Tiril (left) and Ronja Hermansen have practiced sleeping outdoors every night for several months. Here they are with mother Maiken. PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER ENGÅS

TOP OF THE WORLD28

›› Christopher Engås

�� The numbers are still modest for the state-owned miningcompany Trust Arktikugol.Approximately 300 Russiantourists found their way toBarentsburg during this winterseason.

In addition, a signifficantnumber of visitors from Europe and inhabitants of Longyear-byen stopped by or stayed in the hotel for a night.

"We are attracting a lot more

The small Russian community of Barentsburg is also preparing itself for the post-coal age. Since last year the number of tourist visits has doubled.

Booming Barentsburg

tourists now than a year ago," says Ivan Velichenko.

"For a few weeks during the snowmobile season, the hotel was fully booked, even on week-days. The tourists from Russia and Europe tend to come during the weekdays, and visitors from Longyearbyen come on the weekends," he adds.

Velichenko does a lmost everything in Barentsburg.

He speaks English very well and guides tourists around in

ENTERTAINMENT: Song, dance, music and colorful outfits on stage in Barentsburg. PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER ENGÅS

Svalbard Wildlife Expeditions

Phone +47 77 75 32 50 // lundblad@lundblad.no // www.lundblad.no

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TOP OF THE WORLD 29

Booming Barentsburg

the settlement. He also stands on stage when the Russians put on their shows for the visitors.

Tours of the mineBarentsburg has undergone a significant facelift the last few years.

The town hall and the hotel have been redecorated to such an extent many are of the opinion the finest hotel rooms in Svalbard are in the Russian settlement.

In addition, a number of the appartment buildings have been fixed, as have parts of the school, and a souvenir shop has been opened.

And there is more to come."This summer we are opening

an art exebition in the old con-sulate building," says Timofej Rogosjin, head of tourism in Barentsburg.

"In addition, we wish to offer tours down to the coal mine," he adds.

The Russian mine opening is in the basement of Trust Ark-tikugols administration buildig, and goes several kilometres underground.

The miners are transported into the mine by small trains. But no tourist will be allowed into the mine.

"It is just to give visitors a feeling of mining by letting them put on the right equipment and showing them around the 'train station' where the mine starts," Rogosjin says.

Real beerUp until recently it was for-

bidden to produce alcohol in Svalbard. Last year however, the probibition law was repealed. In

›› Quick facts: Barentsburg

• Spelled Баренцбург in Cyrillic. Svalbards second-largest settlement, after Longyearbyen.

• A mining town owned by the Russian company Trust Arktikugol. Most of the inhabitants are from the Ukraine.

• Named after the Dutch explorer Willem Barents, who is credited for discovering Svalbard in 1596.

• There are no roads that connect Barentsburg and Longyearbyen.

• Travel is mostly done with snowmo-biles during winter and boat in the summertime.

HAPPY: Timofej Rogosjin is head of tourism in Barentsburg and says business is booming.

PHOTO: C. I. TANGERAAS

ENTERTAINMENT: Song, dance, music and colorful outfits on stage in Barentsburg. PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER ENGÅS

››

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Barentsburg they want to cash in on this opportunity.

"The beer we have been brewing so far only contains 2.5 percent alcohol. Our goal is to have all the needed paperwork done so that we can offer our visitors real beer," Rogosjin says.

CleanupSince the Dutch first started building in Barentsburg in the 1920s the settlement has been based on coal mining.

This has led to a true mess in some places where coal mining equipment, along with other things one thought could come in handy some day, have been stored. In connection with the focus on tourism as a future way of life, Trust Arktikugol has started a massive cleanup process.

"We are working with a Norwegian architechtural firm to find the best way to utlilize

the town areas," Rogosjin says. "This work started last year

and will be continued until this fall. We hope to have some good answers then," he says.

Promotion issuesThe Russians have traditionally not been very good at adverti-sing and promoting the unique little town 40 kilometres from Longyearbyen.

Only a year ago it was very complicated to book a room in the hotel. This has now largely changed.

Trust Arktikugol is now avaliable at different booking sites on the internet and they have worked on standardizing the offers they have for tourists.

"We offer f ive-day trips towards the Russian upper end market," Rogosjin says.

"Our guests arrive in Long-yearbyen and stay for a night in our hostel there. The day after

we take them to Barentsburg, either by snowmobile or by boat, where they enjoy what we have here for two days. After that we go to the anbandoned Russian town of Pyramiden for a day, before it's time to catch the plane home," he says.

BY THE FJORD: Barentsburg started as a Dutch mining settlement in the 1920s and was sold to the Soviet Union in 1932. PHOTO: Sergey Dolya

The price for such a tour of Svalbards settlements is approximately 10,500 kroner and in that the Russians have a comparative advantage.

They are far cheaper than the Norwegian companies in the tourism industry.

ACCOMMODATION: It is now possible to book hotels room online.PHOTO: BIRGER AMUNDSEN

TOP OF THE WORLD 31

Need the straight scoop on all things Svalbard?

www.visitsvalbard.com • +47 79 02 55 50 • info@visitsvalbard.com

Need the straight scoop on all things Svalbard?

Rules, safety tips, history, fun facts, maps, online movies and

details about major events

A comprehensive calendar of tours and activities that's

updated daily

A subscriber newsletter with all media coverage of Svalbard

during the past week

Our website offers "one-stop" booking for all lodging, tours and other activities, plus:

Visit us at our website or in person at the end of the walking street in the city center going towards Nybyen.

Our website offers "one-stop" booking for all lodging, tours and other activities, plus:

Visit us at our website or in person at the end of the walking street in the city center going towards Nybyen.

Study on top of the world!We offer courses in Arctic biology, geology, geophysics and technology for university students at all levels.Application deadlines: April 15 and October 15

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TOP OF THE WORLD32

researcher. The company still exists, but has changed from mining coal to overseeing an international scientific research settlement.

The “old town” still stands, and half of the buildings are protected as cultural heritage and are well taken care of.

Ny-Ålesund is far away, but still close. Nowhere else in the world is the High Arctic more accessible. A researcher with an agreement can travel from Paris in the morning and eat lunch in the mess hall by afternoon. For tourists, it is easiest to arrive with an organized boat trip from Longyearbyen.

Life in the deep freezeResearchers from countries such as China, India, South Korea, the Netherlands, Germany and Norway are working on their

own and joint projects.Researchers from about 30

nations are working on projects here, most in natural sciences. Nine nations have permanent stations and work in close cooperation. The number of pro-jects published in international journals and other publications is high. In and around Ny-Ålesund are a series of measuring instruments monitoring glacier changes, pollutants in the air, Arctic migratory birds, insects

breeding, geology, the upper atmosphere, life in the freezing water during winter darkness and much, much more.

A warmer, wetter worldLong-term measurements from the north show the world’s climate scientists what future temperatures and precipitation will likely be.

Measurements from Ny-Ålesund also show the ocean is now up to two degrees Celsius

›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� The hotel, museum and post office all lay claim to being theworld’s northernmost.

It’s also the setting for the northernmost Chinese research station and the northernmost steam locomotive. This research village is seeped in history, and the surrounding frame can’t be more beautiful: Unique vistas and dramatic glaciers change along with climate.

From Ny-Ålesund, at nearly 79 degrees latitude north, it is 1,230 kilometers to the North Pole and 2,420 kilometers to Oslo. A community quite out of the ordinary.

This year is the 100-year anniversary of the establishment of the Kings Bay mining com-pany and the 50-year anniversary of the first overwintering by a

In this unique village, nearly everything and everyone can call itself 'the worlds northernmost.' Now Ny-Ålesund celebrates its 100th anniversary.

HISTORIC: The Amundsen Villa was home to the great polar explorer Roald Amundsen during the 1920s. PHOTO: BIRGER AMUNDSEN

79 DEGREES NORTH: In the world’s northernmost community the state-owned company Kings Bay facilitates international climate research. Glaciers around the village are closely followed by scientists. PHOTO: BIRGER AMUNDSEN

Next stop: The North Pole

TOP OF THE WORLD 33

warmer and the sea ice is get-ting thinner as it melts from underneath.

Glaciers are losing numerous cubic kilometers of mass a year, and air f lowing from the south is bringing old and new pollutants that may affect the biology of the north greatly.

About 30 employees in the “research village” help facilitate the international research at

a high level. They include machine operators, carpenters, electricians, plumbers, chefs and several other professions. Most have double or triple roles. The director, for example, is also typically the airport bus driver, concierge and operator of heavier vehicles. The electrician is also a firefighter and the operations manager is also a skipper.

The village in Kongsfjorden

has a special history and events there have changed Norwegian politics.

Numerous mining accidents leading up to a major accident in the autumn of 1962 fueled criticism against the state as the mine’s owner and triggered a government crisis, resulting in the ouster of Prime Minister’s Einar Henry Gerhardsen’s Labor Party government a year later.

Even at the onset of the 20th century, Ny-Ålesund had a pro-minent place on the world stage.

Polar researchers Roald Amundsen and Umberto No-bile started from there aboard the airship Norge, and in 1926 became the first to f ly over the North Pole.

The airship’s mast is still standing, one of many cultural monuments in the village. 

CHOO, CHOO: "Toa" is the world's northernmost locomotive. This summer it is being restored on the mainland.

PHOTO: LINE NAGELL YLVISÅKER

TOP OF THE WORLD34

›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� More than 1,000 men, women and children once lived here, and for more than 50 years large amounts of coal were extracted from the pyramid-shaped moun-tain towering over the settlement.

The best of it stands untouched since the Russian state-owned mining company Trust Artikugol decided to move the population out during the winter of 1998-1999.

Lenin still towers over the settlement’s continental shelf in front of the Palace of Culture. Inside the building are typical monuments of the Soviet era. Books are in the library, half-inflated basketballs and footballs are in the intact sports hall, and the swimming pool lacks only water. Fixtures remain in place in

many of the apartment buildings. It's almost as if the city is ready for new life.

TourismEfforts to establish tourist ac-tivities remain in progress after several years of work, including the refurbishing of the hotel which now offers modern and more rustic Russian-style rooms to guests.

During the summer there are boat trips from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden. Visitors cannot go into enclosed buildings on their own. But just walking up the main street to greet Lenin, watching birds nest on the windowsills and observing the mining installations high in the mountains is enough to get a good impression of the Arctic ghost town.

An Arctic ghost town

Comrade Lenin still watches over the abandoned settlement of Pyramiden.

STILL WATCHING: Lenin stands on his pedestal and guards the parade street. PHOTO: BIRGER AMUNDSEN

Explore SvalbardThe magical Arctic wilderness

www.svalbardbooking.comsales@svalbardbooking.com

+47 79 02 50 00

Svalbard Booking covers a wide range of activities like snowmobile safaris, ATV safaris and boat trips. Accommodation at Svalbard Hotell & Lodge,

dining at legendary Huset and Longyearbyen’s hotspot Svalbar.

Svalbard Booking helps you find the perfect program for your Arctic adventure!

TOP OF THE WORLD 35

The Governor of Svalbard

Welcome to Svalbard, Norway’s northernmost region!

The Governor – Sysselmannen – is head of law enforcement and environmental protection, on behalf of the Norwegian Government. The Governor is also responsible for search and rescue missions in Svalbard.

ARCTIC EMPOWERMENTKrane Glass & Fasade AS

working with glass and window construction for over 100 years

Commercial as well as private customers, you are welcome to have a chat.

Glass – facade – sunblinds – mirrors – doors – windows

www.krane.com

We are located in the JM Hansen building.

Contact André Jenssen, 47 70 09 60 - andre@krane.com

TOP OF THE WORLD36

Svalbard isn't exactly Hawaii, but that doesn't stop a small group of brave beachgoers.

›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� "We know that the shockthat the body receives can beharmful. But we follow clearrules, and are seeing great health benefits and an improved quality of life through the joy ice bathing gives," said Stein-Ove Johannes-sen, head of the Sjøsprøyt IceBathing Club.

Participation is down a bit recently, and has been a bit up and down ever since the club started in 2012.

It has become more of a family thing during the past year, with kids ages eight and 12 being recruited as ice bathers. But now

that the sun is back, expectations are for increased splashing and squealing at the fixed bathing place at the small boat harbor.

Dangerous New research from China and Finland offers a somewhat scary picture of ice bathing. In China, researchers found ice bathers are twice as likely to die of a heart attack or stroke as the general population.

In Finland, ten regular winter swimmers were studied over a long duration, with their bodies changing neither for better or worse.

"Ice bathing is used to treat rheumatic diseases," said Maja-Lisa Løchen, a professor of preventative medicine at The University of Tromsø. "But studies show that one cannot measure any objective impro-vement."

Løchen, in an interview with the university magazine Labyrinth, said numerous studies have been done on athletes' use of ice bathing to recover after competitions. Those also failed to show measurable medicinal effects.

In Great Britain, there are bet-ween 400 and 1,000 deaths each year among people swimming in cold water. Heart attacks and strokes due to sudden blood clots are the leading causes of death.

In China, scientists believe ice bathing inflicts an intense stress on the body since vulnerable organs such as the brain and heart are exposed. Large amounts of adrenaline and other stress-induced reactions flow suddenly through the body.

"You may faint from the large shock the body is exposed to; therefore, one must not bathe alone," Løchen told Labyrinth.

"We do not recommend ice swimming for people with heart disease, since it can trigger a heart attack."

At the same time, she said ice bathing is unlikely to be harmful for healthy people.

Taking seriouslyIn Longyearbyen, ice bathing is taken seriously and the club has established rules.

"We never bathe a lone. Alcohol before ice bathing is prohibited. The aim of ice bat-hing is to have fun and we have a very important clause in our rules: it is not allowed to die," Johannessen said.

At the same time, he said he has had only positive experiences of bathing in sub-zero waters since it's socially stimulating, there's lots of laughter and the body feels more energized afterwards.

Cool fun in the High ArcticBRRRRRR: Beach life on Svalbard is frosty, but fun. PHOTO: PRIVAT

TOP OF THE WORLD 37

YOU CAN BUY SVALBARDPOSTEN AT…

Digital subscriptions and daypasses can be

purchased at www.svalbardposten.no

– LIVING IN THE ARCTIC –

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More stories from the

High Arctic

Svalbard - P. O. Box 518 - 9171, Longyearbyen - Vei 227.2Tel: 02244 - email: 02244@snn.no

The Northernmost

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TOP OF THE WORLD38

›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� There are 124 fewer Norwe-gians and 174 more foreigners in Longyearbyen than four yearsago. The new Svalbard “whitepaper” – called Svalbardmeldingen– spells out the government’scommitment to strengtheningthe Norwegian presence.

“One of the central objectives of Svalbard policy is to maintain Norwegian communities in the archipelago,” said Gudmund Hagesæter, a Progress Party member and state secretary of the Ministry of Justice and Public Security, which has administra-tive oversight of Svalbard.

“The proposed white paper

emphasizes that Longyearbyen should be an attractive place for Norwegian families. There should be good and secure jobs provided, preferably many small businesses, and it will no longer be a company town.”

“Efforts should be made for attractive Norwegian jobs,” he added, openly acknowledging a strong Norwegian grip on the area is a deliberate and desirable goal.

Tightening up“It is important to have a distinct Norwegian presence,” said Re-gina Alexandrova, a Conservative Party member and member of Parliament’s Defense and Foreign

Affairs Committee.The increase in the number of

foreign nationals in Longyear-byen prompted the government to react.

No citizenshipForeigners living in Svalbard are not able to obtain Norwegian citizenship.

“Foreign citizens who are born in Svalbard or have a prolonged stay in the archipe-lago are not granted Norwegian citizenship on this basis alone,” the revised white paper notes. “It is not necessary to change these rules.”

The document also suggests there should be stricter controls on who travels to and from Svalbard. Passport control at the airport may be a result.

Norwegian passportsA stronger Norwegian presence is also sought at The University

Longyearbyen is truly multinational, with citizens from almost 50 countries living in a tight-knit community. Now the government seeks to strengthen the Norwegian presence.

Centre in Svalbard. The Minis-try of Education and Research allocates annual grants to the institution.

The university’s stated intent is at least 50 percent of the stu-dents will be Norwegian. UNIS, however, has been uncertain what is the definition of a Nor-wegian student and therefore has deemed it sufficient if they are enrolled at a Norwegian university.

That will not be sufficient if the new white paper is approved.

“We must use UNIS better,” said Bjørn Haugstad, state secre-tary of the education ministry. “The study environment here is unique. It is strange that we struggle to get 50 percent of students with a Norwegian passport.”

Today, 45 percent of UNIS students are from Norwegian universities, but only 23 percent have Norwegian passports.

ARCTIC THAI FESTIVAL: Delicious treats are served during the annual celebration of Loy Krathong in Longyearbyen. PHOTO: LINE NAGELL YLVISÅKER

It's a small Arctic world

TOP OF THE WORLD 39

ARCTIC THAI FESTIVAL: Delicious treats are served during the annual celebration of Loy Krathong in Longyearbyen. PHOTO: LINE NAGELL YLVISÅKER

We have almost everything!

Opening times: mOn-fri 1000 - 1700

(sat 1100 - 1400)

www.svalbardmuseum.no

LIFE IN ICE AND LIGHT

THE EXHIBITIONShowing Svalbard’s natural and cultural

history.

THE MUSEUM SHOPThe museum shop offers a wide selection of literature in several

languages, souvenirs, postcards, maps and posters, fossils and jewelry

designed by local artists. We accept all credit cards, Euros and USD.

OPEN DAILY –OPEN AT ALL MAJOR CRUISE CALLS TO

LONGYEARBYEN.

Svalbard Museum was proudly awarded the Council of Europe Museum Prize in

2008.

WELCOME TO SVALBARD MUSEUM!

›› Nationalities

Country Number

Austria 4Argentina 1Australia 2Belgium 1Bosnia-Hercegovina 1Brazil 5Bulgaria 1Canada 5Chile 11China 5Colombia 2Croatia 12Denmark 41Czech Republic 6Estland 7Philippines 41Finland 13France 3Holland 7India 7Indonesia 1Iraq 1Iran 2

Ireland 2Iceland 13Italy 6Japan 3Latvia 1Lithuania 4Malaysia 1Norway 1.467Poland 25Portugal 2Romania 3Russia 50Slovakia 1Spain 1United Kingdom 22Switzerland 4Sweden 135Syria 1Thailand 117Tunisia 1Germany 44Ukraine 21Hungary 1Uruguay 1USA 17

TOP OF THE WORLD40

Open daily 10 am – 5 pm and at all major cruise calls to Longyearbyen

Kunsthall Svalbard, LongyearbyenNorthern Norway Art MuseumEntrance: Svalbard Museum

www.nnkm.no

SVALBARD SKIMARATON29. APRIL 2017

INFORMATION79 02 13 33

POST@SVALBARDTURN.NO

SPITSBERGEN MARATHON3. JUNI 2017

SVALBARD SPACERUN27. AUGUST 2016

New this year!

General sponsors:

TOP OF THE WORLD 41

›› Ole Magnus Rapp

�� Important pieces of Europe's textile history are hidden at Likneset in Smeerenburgfjorden on northeastern Spitsbergen.

The name literally translates to "Corpse Point."

This is the final resting place for about 225 trappers who died during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Due to the permafrost and dry climate, a lot of the textiles are preserved.

Archaeologists working for The Governor of Svalbard are now getting ready to examine three of the graves that are in danger of being eroded away by the sea.

"It's an emergency dig," says Snorre Haukalid, archeaologist and leader of the project.

The work is scheduled to begin in late July.

With the exception of an excavation project on Bjørnøya last summer, it has been many

225 dead trappers lie buried up north. Now three exposed graves are to be investigated.

Treasure hunting at 'Corpse Point'

years since a similar archaeo-logical dig has been done in Svalbard. Haukalid describes it as a "treasure trove for Europe's textile history."

"Nowhere else is this kind of clothing from the 1600s and 1700s so well preserved. Those clothes tell a lot of history," he says.

In European museums it is mostly royalty and priests' clothes that are preserved from this era.

Cared for the deadIt's also known that the Dutch and the other nations engaging in whaling cared for their own dead, and laid down a lot of work and preperations before their comrades' final journey. The most common cause of death was scurvy, which is documented via discolored knuckles.

The hunters were buried in their clothes, and during cold periods they often wore several layers of wool and homespun

cloth. They had long knitted socks, warm headgear, gloves and perhaps a coat.

"Clothes for ordinary people in the 1600s are found only in tombs where the permafrost preserves them."

Svalbard is full of graves, but

many are vulnerable to climate change and the sea eroding away soil.

"There is little you can do to secure the area, besides taking care of the contents of the tombs before they end up in the ocean," Haukalid says.

EMERGENCY DIG: This hill on Likneset is eroding closer and closer to several old graves. PHOTO: SNORRE HAUKALID / SYSSELMANNEN

GRAVEDIGGER: Archaeologist Snorre Haukalid from The Governor of Svalbard's office is to lead the dig on Likneset. Here he is during a similar grave excavation on Bjørnøya last summer. PHOTO: DAG NÆVESTAD

TOP OF THE WORLD42

The four-day festival is an annual event in late October at 78 degrees north in Longyearbyen.

It marks the beginning of the dark season when daylight and the sun is about to leave Svalbard

for four long winter months.

The World’s Northernmost Blues FestivalDARK SEASON BLUES

www.svalbardblues.com2016 OCTOBER 27 - 30 2017 OCTOBER 26 - 29

Barentsburg HotelOpen all year, with modernized rooms, and a good restaurant with a bar and cafe, where you get a lot for your money. Authentic Russian menu, also featuring local specialties.

Barentz Pub & SpiseriCasual gathering place in the middle of Longyearbyen. Many meet at the "world 's northern-most bar" to eat daily specials or just chat with friends and acquaintances.

Brasserie NansenA nice place with good views of Hiorthfjellet and a good kitchen at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen.

Coal Miners' CabinsPleasant, mining-inspired retro venue in Nybyen. The former large mess hall serves hot and cold dishes, and a rich selection of refreshments.

FrueneA cafe and eatery with heavy traffic, especially at lunch time. Many residents of Longyearby-en meet here to eat homemade meals. Fruene also produces their own chocolates.

Funken BarFireplace lounge with Chester-field furniture and an extensive polar library that provides the feeling of being back in the time of Nansen and Amundsen.

Funksjonærmessen RestaurantHistoric eatery up the valley in Longyearbyen. In earlier times it was here workers in the old mining community took their meals. The restaurant offers no less than 70 champagne brands.

Huset CaféA gathering place for many decades. Good atmosphere, but simpler and more casual than

the restaurant.

Huset RestaurantThe restaurant's menu changes with the seasons, but local ingredients are a constant. The wine collection represents one of Europe's largest cellars.

Karlsberger PubA pub/bar in mine-inspired surroundings. Perhaps the largest collection of whiskey you've ever seen, or do like the locals: Ask for a beer and a Underberg.

Kita SushiThis is the northernmost sushi restaurant, with delectable small dishes that are made in an instant.

KroaSteakers Svalbard - or just Kroa - is known for its warm atmo-sphere. The food is characte-rized by seasonal ingredients.

Mary Ann's PolarriggIt feels as if you are outside while in there, surrounded by glass, but the temperature is pleasant and the mood is good in the so-called Winter Garden.

Rabalder cafe Café with its own bakery and plenty of space for the children in the foyer of Kulturhuset.

Svalbar PubLicensed sports pub - and homemade burgers. A meeting place preferred by many. The atmosphere is great, especially during a live game of soccer on the big screen.

A Taste of ThaiAuthentic Thai curries, soups and noodle dishes. A place for Longyearbyen's second-largest non-Norwegian population to get a taste of home and for visitors to experience the "heat" of the Arctic.

Svalbard BrewerySvalbard Brewery fought the law – and they won. The small brewery overturned an age-old law prohibiting beer production on Svalbard and now offers a selection of locally made brews.

Svalbard Hotell Svalbard newest hotel can offer a wine bar, restaurant and even an outdoor serving area if the weather conditions permit.

Food and drink

PHOTO: GEIR BARSTEIN

Svalbard is known for many eating places with good kitchens and fi ne selection of drinks and beverages. Here are some.

TOP OF THE WORLD 43

The four-day festival is an annual event in late October at 78 degrees north in Longyearbyen.

It marks the beginning of the dark season when daylight and the sun is about to leave Svalbard

for four long winter months.

The World’s Northernmost Blues FestivalDARK SEASON BLUES

www.svalbardblues.com2016 OCTOBER 27 - 30 2017 OCTOBER 26 - 29

TOP OF THE WORLD44

Choose your own Arctic adventureSVALBARD

BOOK NOWBooking day trips has never been easier! You can book 24 hours a day online at www.spitsbergentravel.com, or in person at the reception at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen, Spitsbergen Hotel or Coal Miners’ Cabins.

For packages with accommodation, activities and more, contact Spitsbergen Travel directly at info@spitsbergentravel.no or ring +47 7902 6100.

THE LOCAL EXPERTS Northern lights and polar night, or midnight sun and 24 hour fun – let Spitsbergen Travel help you find the perfect program for your Arctic adventure. Whatever the season we are here to help you get the most out of your visit to Svalbard, with a range of exciting activities available throughout the year. Whether you are looking for a full package with flights, accommo-dation, activities and more, or want to add a little more adventure to your stay, our knowledgeable local team looks forward to hearing from you!

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