Tourist Guide Autumn 2013

Your Autumn Guide to

Barcelona

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6 What’s new

8 City season

12 A day in the city

16 Food & Drink

28 Culture

_Music

_Festivals

_Art

_Traditions

40 Maps

46 Metro map

48 Need to know

50 Little Black Book

contents

Ciutat 7 2-4, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486Enquiries: [email protected]: [email protected],000 copies of this guide are distributed every quarter in Barcelona's four- and five-star hotels.

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Cover photo by Michaela Xydi

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new in town

Bardot If you want to try tapas, and would like something out of the ordinary, this is a great option. Sit at the stylish bar and enjoy fried eggs with caviar or crunchy marscapone-filled ravioli. If the weather is fine, head for a table out on the terrace and watch the Barcelona world go by. Enric Granados 147. www.bardotbcn.com

La Vietnamita This popular Vietnamese eatery has just opened a second restaurant in the Born. With dishes inspired by Asian street food, you’ll find soup, noodles and rolls, all of which have a vegetarian version. Comerç 17. www.lavietnamita.com

VegetArt VegetArt is a take-away restaurant specialising in Catalan vegan cuisine, located in the heart of Gràcia. Zaraida is the owner, chef and a devout vegan herself. Plates cost between €1 and €1.50, making it possible to buy a three-course lunch with a bottle of water for as little as €5. Torrent de l’Olla 138. www.facebook.com/VegetartCuinaVegana

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Dónde? On? Where? Find the location of these places with our maps on pages 40-43

Café Godot New to Gràcia is this lovely café. The interior is reminiscent of a New York City style bistro—dark and cosy with high ceilings, exposed beams, large boards listing the house specialities and an attractive cocktail bar. Offering three distinct menus, they serve everything from banana pancakes to Thai curry and Moroccan lamb. Highly recommendable is their fried fish sandwich with citrus sauce. There’s a late brunch at the weekend and, maintaining the New York vibe, the kitchen is open all day. Sant Domènec 19. www.cafegodot.com

Il Magazzino Recently moved to a new location, Il Magazzino is a well-stocked delicatessen, offering quality products from the Italian peninsula to eat in or take away. The menu is classic Italian, the design an eclectic mix of hand crafted furnishings, and everything in the shop—from the deli products and wine to the tables, chairs and decorative pieces—is available for purchase. The owners’ mission: to bring the best of Italy to Barcelona. Rosselló 253. www.delicatessenbarcelona.es

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‘LIVE FREE’. This is a slogan you will see a lot of while visiting Bar-celona at the moment. Well, what

you will actually see is ‘Viure Lliure’ (the slogan in Catalan), which has been adopted by the Barcelona city council to describe the year-long activities and festivities currently underway and and which will finish on September 11th, 2014. This will be 300 years to the day when a besieged Barcelona (and with it an independent Catalunya) fell to the Spanish. The Catalans had sided with the Austrians against Spain in the War of the Spanish Succession and was to pay a heavy price for this decision as the victorious Spanish king, Felipe V, later got rid of its key institutions and out-lawed the public use of the Catalan lan-guage. Every year in modern times, September 11th has been marked by Catalans eager to turn the clock back and see this region become a self-ruling nation. Known as ‘la diada’ and described as Catalunya’s ‘national’ day (despite it not being a na-tion), there are not many places that re-

member such a burdensome historical defeat with an annual public holiday.If you’ve visited Barcelona before, you will know that it is a city teeming with history. From its Roman wall to the ca-thedral of the Middle Ages and 20th-century architectural landmarks, the past here is not so much a ‘foreign coun-try’, but rather an intrinsic and essen-tial part of the city’s character. With so much attention being paid to the city of the early 18th century, why not get into the spirit of that time and visit some of those places that were around in some form or other 300 years ago? The Born neighbourhood is the obvi-ous place to start. Renovations at the former local market ground to a halt a few years back when excavations uncov-ered extensive remains from the years immediately after the September 1714 defeat. As a result, plans to transform the market into a major library were changed to make it into a cultural cen-tre—opening on September 11th this year—with a significant focus on the historic finds. They include more than

Take a trip around some of the historic 18th-century sites of Barcelona.

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50 homes, taverns, butchers and wells, and some of them are thought to date back to the 14th century; visitors will be able to view these remains from a spe-cially constructed walkway. As well as this, the Born Centre Cultural will fea-ture a permanent exhibition about life here in 1700, activities for families and guided tours. The reason why this area is so rich in historical features is that, following the fall of Barcelona, the Spaniards decid-ed to build a citadel in the city to keep an eye on the locals. When built, the star-shaped military construction is said to have been the largest of its kind in Europe. Today, the main site for the Spanish fort has become the Parc de la Ciutadella, just metres away from the old Born market. To build the citadel, a whole neighbourhood was basically laid waste, with 1,200 homes thought to have been destroyed (leaving 4,500 people homeless and uncompensated for their loss) along with two convents and part of the city’s water transporta-tion system, El Rec Comtal, which had to be diverted. The citadel was destroyed around 1870—visit the park today and you’ll see the modern-day Catalan Par-liament, situated where the arsenal once stood; the only other surviving parts of the 18th-century construction are the chapel and governor’s palace.

Apart from the citadel, the Spaniards used two key city landmarks as a means to supress any revolutionary leanings of the defeated Catalans: Montjuïc Castle and the Drassanes. The castle (which is currently being renovated into a centre of historical memory and cultural activ-ities) sits high above the city centre and the views it offers alone make the trip there worthwhile. You can also enjoy the sights from the short cable car ride that runs from the funicular station (which connects with Poble Sec metro) to and from the castle entrance. Once a thriving royal shipyard, the Spanish army took the Drassanes over in the mid 17th century. Since 1941, it has been the city’s Maritime Museum and has recently reopened following 25 years of renovation work. The central ex-hibit is a life-size model of a royal galley built there in the 1560s for John of Aus-tria, while you can also see remnants of life from when Barcelona was a Roman settlement, with a necropolis found dur-ing the recent works. Finally, back in the Born, a visit to the Fossar de les Moreres, next to Santa Maria del Mar church, is a must. This is Barcelona’s memorial to those who died during the siege—which lasted 413 days—a tribute to the human cost of that long-remembered event.



A DAY IN THECITY ROUND AND ABOUT RAMBLA CATALUNYA

09:00 Actually open from 6am, Bar Velodromo (Mun-taner 213) is ideal for any breakfast timetable. One of its main specialities is fried eggs served with different toppings. (1)

10:00 Stroll over to Pal-au Robert (Passeig de Grà-cia 107), which has shaded gardens and several exhibi-tions, both open-air and in the main building (2).

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15:00 Head to the shops on and around Rambla Catalunya for souve-nirs and unusual gifts. Find fabulous stationery at Konema (Rambla Cat-alunya 43) and delicious jamón ser-rano at Reserva Iberica (Aragó 242, below) (6, 7).

16:30 For an afternoon snack, go to La Central bookshop (Mallorca 237) and its upstairs café with lovely out-door space. It’s also great for browsing the novels, stationery and gifts (8).

11:15 Take a seat on one of the many terraces on Rambla Catalunya (main image) for your morning coff ee (3).

12:00 Visit the Fundació Francisco Godia (Diputació 250, above) where the renovated Modernista building is as impressive as the artworks on dis-play (4).

13:30 Have lunch at Ciutat Comtal (Rambla Catalunya 18) and enjoy their range of delicious tapas (5).

� e numbers in pink refer to location points on the map on page 15.


17:00 Drop into the Fundació Tàpies (Aragó 255, above) for a look at the cur-rent exhibitions featuring work by the late Catalan artist (9).

21:00 Have a stylish supper on the street-side balcony at Alba (Enric Gra-nados 34, right) (10).

23:00 Finish off your day with one of Cooler’s cocktails (Mallorca 196, be-low) (11).

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food & drink

Our first plates arrived around 10pm, just as the energy level in the dining

room and bar began to build. Soon after, the bar was full and bustling, and the couples who had been seated around us began to be re-placed by merry groups of friends, carrying half-finished drinks from the outside cocktail tables at which they had been waiting. ‘Cake’ of rock fish with tartare sauce and pickled vegetables was quite different than expected—perfect little squares of rock fish pâté on a long ceramic slab were topped artistically with dollops of white aioli, disks of gherkins and a dusting of pulverised black olives. Next, the simplest dish of the night arrived, but one that really

stood out. Fried aubergine al miel (in honey) can be found in nearly every tapas bar in Andalucía, but never in my travels have I tasted an interpretation so clean, vibrant and mouthwateringly good. Chef Heras has foregone the traditional and often heavy breadcrumbs in favour of a simple dredging in flour. The meaty hunks of aubergine are then flash-fried and served wickedly hot, not the least bit soggy, and drizzled with a generous amount of sugar cane ‘honey’. An emerald dusting of fresh lime zest and a dash of salt made this twist on a classic pop.

Fusina 5 (Born). Tel. 93 319 6250. www.llamberbarcelona.comRead the full review at barcelona-metropolitan.com/llamber

Reviewed: Llamber. By Sam Zucker

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You may know that olive oil has essential vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants that lower cholester-ol, facilitate digestion and create a stronger immune system. And when you think of olive oil, you may immediately consider the var-ious typical Mediterranean dishes that use it; however, you may not know the many other uses of this common household item such as shaving cream, wood furniture polish, to hydrate nails for a mani-cure, control hair frizz, free a stuck zip, remove makeup or create a soothing bath.

Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality and most flavourful of the many oil varieties—it has no acid-ity and is produced without the use of solvents. While extra virgin olive oil is basically fruit juice with-out additives (and free from any defects), other grades of olive oil including virgin olive oil, olive oil, refined olive oil, or olive-pomace are differentiated by their acidity level, defect value and production process.WHERE TO BUYOli...Sal... Travessera de Gràcia 170. www.olisal.com

Olive oil

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Onion soup. Photo courtesy El Celler de Can Roca

Like most restaurants at this level these days, it’s not so much lunch as theatre.

Here the curtain goes up to a fleet of Chinese lanterns tied up with black, silk ribbons. On them is stamped a map of the world, and within are five little hits of flavour representing the Roca brothers’ travels of the past year to Japan, China, Mexico, South America and Morocco. There’s something very thrilling about the start of a serious degustación, the start of a journey with an unknown end. Then came the famed Bonsai olive tree, blooming with plump green olives stuffed with L’Escala anchovies that we plucked from its miniature branches and

washed down with organic cava by Albet i Noya from Penedès. A bitter chocolate bonbon filled with vermut and orange danced across the tongue, sherry consommé poured over pinhead-sized nuggets of egg yolk gnocchi soothed it. We popped white chocolate-dipped, summer Sant Joan mushrooms, swallowed lozenges of jellied tortilla like they were oysters, delighted in plump little brioche stuffed with truffled cream and white asparagus ice-cream...

Can Sunyer 48, Girona. Tel. 972 22 21 57. www.cellercanroca.com. Read the full review of this and all the restaurants featured at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

El Celler de Can Roca. By Tara Stevens

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Onion soup. Photo courtesy El Celler de Can Roca

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T hough the variety of food of-ferings at Mercat Princesa is impressive, what first grabs

the diner’s attention is the Gothic building in which it is housed. Here you can enjoy food and drinks from across Spain, Italy, Japan, China and Thailand, prepared on the spot at one of the 16 different stalls that flank the airy central atrium. This is a naturally-lit space with vaulted ceilings, indoor greenery and a cluster of low, communal tables of unfinished wood and iron. One may choose to order from the all-egg bar, where free-range eggs from ‘happy hens’ are made into tortillas, scrambled eggs and a handful of variations on the classic

bar indulgence of huevos rotos. Or, if a mix of classic and new-age Cat-alan cuisine suits your fancy, try the plump ‘gin tonic’ botifarra (sausage) flavoured with gin and lime (or any of the other nine house-made vari-eties, including ‘mojito’) and cooked to order at La Planxa grill. Still not inspired? Dim sum, pintxos, paella, ceviche, pasta, croquetas, pizza, oysters and a variety of line-caught, flash-fried seafood are all available, with international beer, a good range of wines, and dozens of cocktail options to wash it all down.

Flassaders 21 (Born). www.mercatprincesa.com

Mercat Princesa. By Sam Zucker


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Salt Beach Club. By Tara Stevens

The Southern California-inspired menu offers five different gourmet burgers,

which one hopes would be ex-tremely good since they are priced between €15 and €17, alongside more interesting entreés such as beef carpaccio with deep-fried crunchy oysters and nasturtium flower gazpacho. We plumped for a spanking fresh seabass ceviche with guacamole, a bright grilled prawn salad, spoon-tender and wickedly sticky barbecued ribs, and a Wagyu steak grilled over a vol-

canic stone at the table. It was a lit-tle tough to tell the truth, but the rest was winning stuff and went down a treat with a bottle of Verdejo.Afterwards, we drifted back over to the beach club and lounged about in string armchairs sipping ginger mojitos watching the sun go down over the Med.

Salt Beach Club. W Hotel, Mare Nostrum 19-21. Tel. 93 295 2819. www.saltbeachclub.comOpen daily 1pm - 2am. Around €50 p/p for three courses + wine.


food & drink directory

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Salt Beach Club. By Tara StevensBemBí4IndIan culInaryExperience authentic Indian cuisine in modern and sophisticated surroundings. Their dishes are created with passion by their head chef who has more than 10 years of experience in the best restaurants in both India and London. If you’re vegetarian, then you will love their exciting flavours and aromas.

Consell de Cent 377, 08009 Metro Girona (L4, yellow) T. 93 502 4952 M. 645 257 701

AkAshi GALLery4TEa shop / rEsTauranTAKASHI GALLERY is a tea house and Japanese dining room with a photo gallery located in the heart of Barcelona. Enjoy top-notch Japanese tea from Kyoto Ippodo and excellent homemade Japanese dishes over wonderful photo and art exhibitions in an astonishing atmosphere. And of course, you are welcomed to stop by just to see the art exhibitions.

Rosselló 197 Metro Diagonal T. 93.125.08.77 www.akashigallery.com

9reinAs4argEnTInE rEsTauranTArgentine restaurant 9Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value, 9Reinas is specialised in meats from all over the world. 9Reinas offers a romantic and intimate space where you can enjoy the best of Argentine cuisine.

Valencia 267, 08007 Metro Passeig de Gracia T. 93 272 4766 www.nuevereinas.com

food & drink directory

keik4upTown café rEsTauranTInternational fusion dishes, plus a big variety of salads. Everything is made fresh and with top quality ingredients. Save space for their wonderful cakes and desserts - eat in or take away. On Saturdays and Sundays they offer brunch from 10am til 12.45pm, including eggs benedict, French toast and granola. Open every day of the year.

Doctor Fleming 21 Metro La Bonanova Tel. 93 414 55 36 www.keik.es

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Rambla del Poblenou 101, 08005 Tel. 93 603 5909

Open Mon-Sun: 12pm-12am

www.restaurantesitar.com

Indian restaurant in the heart of

the Poblenou district of the city,

with modern design and vibrant

atmosphere, offering a generous

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Rambla del Poblenou 101, 08005 Tel. 93 603 5909

Open Mon-Sun: 12pm-12am

www.restaurantesitar.com

Indian restaurant in the heart of

the Poblenou district of the city,

with modern design and vibrant

atmosphere, offering a generous

menu of typical and authentic

dishes such as tandoori, biryanis,

curries and baltis.

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cultureconcerts

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October 2nd Eleanor Friedberger + Bill Ryder-JonesSala Apolo. From €12Known for her clever word-play, wit and cool, Friedberger is touring her second studio album, Personal Record. Personal Record. Personal RecordRyder-Jones, ex lead guitarist of Th e Ryder-Jones, ex lead guitarist of Th e Coral, performs from his own second solo album.

October 6th CSS (left) Sala Bikini. From €23Th e Brazilian electro-pop, indie rockers come to Barcelona riding on the back of their latest album, Plan-ta. Get ready to dance like your feet have a mind of their own.

October 27th FoalsSala Apolo. From €25Having evolved from nervous math rock to a more expressive pop sound, and with a loyal fan base created thanks to UK show Skins, Foals bring the danceable rhythms of their new-est album Holy Fire to the masses. Holy Fire to the masses. Holy Fire

November 5th SuedeRazzmatazz. From €35Bloodsports (2013), their fi rst studio eff ort in over three years, sees a re-turn to the energy that character-ised the group in their early years, keeping Suede’s signature sound of inde-pop and glam fi rmly intact.

November 7th Youth LagoonRazzmatazz 2. From €25North American artist Trevor Pow-ers performs here for the fi rst time under his stage name Youth Lagoon. His new album, Wondrous Bughouse, has been met with widespread ac-claim, dubbed minimalistic, hypnot-ic and deeply emotional.

November 8thJosh Ritter La (2) de Apolo. From €18A native of Moscow, Idaho, Josh Ritter visits Barcelona as part of his acoustic European tour, showcasing his highly personal seventh studio album, Th e Beast in its Tracks—13 songs of emotion after a diffi cult split with his wife last year.

November 28thDaughter (pictured above)Sala Apolo. From €20Th e London folk-pop trio that is Daughter bring us their melanchol-ic and dreamy sounds ahead of the release of their LP, If You Leave.


November 21st Quartet GerhardPalau de la Música Catalana. €16Winner of the Primer Palau 2012 prize, the quartet will bring the com-positions of Arriaga and Ravel to life.

November 24th to 26th Polish National BalletGran Teatre del Liceu. From €24From explosive energy to the gentle-play of light and shadows, the Polish National Ballet dances to Bach in four movements, offering new interpreta-tions of the master composer’s work.

December 5th Vienna Symphony Orchestra and PiresAuditori de Barcelona. From €28The orchestra combines with interna-tionally acclaimed pianist Maria João Pires to perform works from the three pillars of Viennese classicism: Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven.

October 2ndKhatia Buniatishvili Palau de la Música Catalana. From €17Invited back by the Palau, the rising star from Georgia returns, this time performing works by Ravel and Mus-sorgski.

October 13th Chamber Choir Palau de la Música Catalana. €16 The Chamber Choir of the Palau de la Música Catalana performs works by Schütz as well as Shostakovich’s seven songs on revolutionary poems.

November 10th Gran Teatre del Liceu Symphony OrchestraPalau de la Música Catalana. €25The wind section of the Orchestra per-form a symphony by Stravinsky and a serenade by Mozart, under the con-ductor’s baton of Josep Pons.

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September 20th to 23rdBAM Festival. www.bcn.cat/bamPart of La Mercè (see page 38), BAM has become one of the most awaited music events in the city, hosting small independent bands, from here and afar in free concerts around Barcelona. This year expect performances from Miles Kane, The Coup and Fur Voice.

September 25th to October 20thBarcelona Comedy Festival. www.barcelonacomedyfestival.comThe multilingual comedy festival has acts performing in more than five lan-guages. With comedy acts coming

from across Europe, there is some-thing for everyone here, including drag acts, musical theatre and kids shows. London-based Canadian comedian, Tony Law (above) will be headlining on September 27th at Tradicionarius.

November 18th to 24th L’Alternativa Barcelona Independ-ent Film Festival. www.cccb.orgThis year sees the 20th anniversa-ry of the festival which promotes in-dependent cinema from Spain and overseas, split into four sections: shorts, feature films, animation and documentaries. A must for film lovers.

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October 19th to December 1stber Barcelona International Jazz Festival. www.theproject.esStarted in 1966, this is one of Eu-rope’s most prominent jazz festivals, with a long history of including a wide variety styles in its programme. This year sees a whole host of acts come to the city, including rising stars ACS, Cuban jazz pianist Alfre-do Rodriguez (left) and Israeli com-poser and bassist Avishai Cohen.



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Joan Hernández Pijuan. Silence & QuietnessGaleria Eudewww.galeriaeude.comBarcelona-born artist Hernández Pijuan (1931-2005) was consid-ered a great innovator, continuous-ly helping to shape the Catalan art world throughout his career. Ex-amples of experimentation with organic shapes, placement, space, simplicity and nature are on dis-play—a retrospective of this artist’s evolving style. September 26th un-til November 21st.

Espriu: I looked upon this land CCCBwww.cccb.org To celebrate 100 years since the birth of Catalan playwright

Salvador Espriu, this exhibition will examine his life and works, as well as looking at his cultural and his-torical impact. October 29th until February 23rd, 2014.

Arte, two points MACBA + CaixaForumwww.macba.catMACBA and CaixaForum explore the relationship between modernity and the avant-garde within Barce-lona. Examining the different me-diums through which it has estab-lished itself as a global city of the arts and experimentation, visitors will discover why painting didn’t play a huge part in its art until the Fifties and see how architecture and poetry influenced its growth. Un-til January 6th, 2014 / December 29th, 2013 (pictured above).


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Before the HorizonFundació Joan Mirówww.fundaciomiro-bcn.orgThis exhibit honours and examines the commanding presence, powerful placement and symbolic significance of the horizon in the work of painters from the 19th century to the present; from Ed Ruscha and Claude Monet to Antoni Tàpies and the iconic Joan Miró himself. Mediums will range between pictorial, photographic and sculptural interpretations of the ho-rizon. October 24th until February 16th, 2014 (pictured above).

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Barcelona Prêt-à-Porter 1958-2008: Fifty Years of the Fashion Industry Palau Robert. www.gencat.cat/probertA look back at the past 50 years of the Catalan fashion industry with more than 300 garments on display. During the exhibition’s duration, the clothes on show will be changed twice, first in October 2013 and then again in January 2014. Until March 30th, 2014.

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Journey Through the Blue: La Vie Museu Picasso www.bcn.cat/museupicassoThe Picasso Museum, in association with the Cleveland Museum of Art, attempts to establish a connection between Picasso’s La Vie, the draw-ings related to this masterpiece, and the hidden image discovered under-neath the painting Barcelona Rooftops. This exhibition combines restoration techniques with artistic elements, as it takes us on a journey through the Spanish painter’s ‘blue period’. Octo-ber 10th until January 19th, 2014.

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Journey Through the Blue: La Vie Museu Picasso www.bcn.cat/museupicassoThe Picasso Museum, in association with the Cleveland Museum of Art, attempts to establish a connection between Picasso’s La Vie, the draw-ings related to this masterpiece, and the hidden image discovered under-neath the painting Barcelona Rooftops. This exhibition combines restoration techniques with artistic elements, as it takes us on a journey through the Spanish painter’s ‘blue period’. Octo-ber 10th until January 19th, 2014.

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38

traDitions

La MercèSeptember 20th to 24thThe original legend of the Virgin of La Mercè dates back to the night of September 24th, 1218 yet it was not until 1687, when Barcelona suffered a plague of locusts, and placed itself in her hands, that she was named one of the official patron saint’s of Barcelona (alongside Santa Eulàlia). Over the last two centuries this festival in her honour has become a celebration of grand proportions; the biggest of the year, with a huge programme of events including concerts, fireworks, art and traditional Catalan cul-ture. This year the celebrations will coincide with the beginning of the of the upcoming tricentenary of the end of the siege of September 11th, 1714. As an added treat, the festival’s open-ing speech will be given by super-chef

and internationally-recognised Catalan icon Ferran Adrià.

Tots Sants November 1st All Saints Day falls the day after Halloween and is when families visit cemeteries and other person-ally important sites around the city, honouring friends and family that have been lost. Surprisingly, it has its roots in the pre-Christian, ancient Gaelic celebration of Samhain, the end of the harvest season and begin-ning of winter. All across Catalunya, roasted chestnuts, sweet potatoes, panellet cakes and moscatell wine are consumed—traditional components of the ‘Castanyada’, or chesnut time, when hearts are warmed and bellies filled in preparation for the darker months ahead.

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La Rambla

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Aragó

Aragó

PL. CATALUNYA

Ronda de Sant Pere

Ronda de Sant Pere

Via Laietana

Passeig de Picasso

Liceu

Princesa

Nou de la

Ram

bla

BarcelonaCathedral

Rond

a de

San

t Ant

oni

C

arme

Pass

eig

de C

olom

Tallers

Joaquin Costa

Riera Alta

Rambla del Raval

Riereta

Carretes

Ronda de Sant Pau

Portal de l’Ángel

Sant Antoni Abat

Comte d’Urgell

Sepulveda

Jardins delsHorts deSant Pau

Jardins delsTres Torres

Muntaner

Casanova

Villarroel

Diputa

ció

Conse

ll de Cent

Conse

ll de Cent

València

Avinguda de Roma

Aribau

Balmes

Balmes

Mallo

rca

Viladomat

Rocafort

Comte Borrell

Riera Amelia

Calabria

Floridablanca

Tam

arit

Mansó

Rambla de Catalunya

Hospital

Sant

a Mad

rona

Pelayo

University ofBarcelona

Urgell

Universitat

Universitat

Sant Antoni

Catalunya

Passeigde Gracia

Urquinaona

Urquinaona

Liceu

Drasssanes

Jaume I

Barceloneta

Pl. Catalunya

Mercat deSanta Caterina

Santa Mariadel Pi

Centre de CulturaContemporania

de Barcelona

BarcelonaMuseum of

Contemporary Art

Pompeu FabraUniversity

ColumbusMonument

Palau de la Música Catalana

Museu Maritimde Barcelona

Passeig de Gràcia

La Rambla

G LD

F

EB

Church of Santa Maria del Mar

Barcelona Zoo

Parc de laCiutadella

Passeig de Pujades

Arc de Triomph

J

DH

I

B

C

EF

G

A

Liceu

CIUTAT VELLA: RAVAL + BARRI GÒTIC

LITTLE BLACK BOOK (P.50)

A Aquarium

B Xix Bar

C Ideal Cocktail Bar

D Santa Llucia market (Nov-Dec)

NEW IN TOWN (P. 6)

E La Vietnamita

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La Rambla

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Aragó

Aragó

PL. CATALUNYA

Ronda de Sant Pere

Ronda de Sant Pere

Via Laietana

Passeig de Picasso

Liceu

Princesa

Nou de la

Ram

bla

BarcelonaCathedral

Rond

a de

San

t Ant

oni

C

arme

Pass

eig

de C

olom

Tallers

Joaquin Costa

Riera Alta

Rambla del Raval

Riereta

Carretes

Ronda de Sant Pau

Portal de l’Ángel

Sant Antoni Abat

Comte d’Urgell

Sepulveda

Jardins delsHorts deSant Pau

Jardins delsTres Torres

Muntaner

Casanova

Villarroel

Diputa

ció

Conse

ll de Cent

Conse

ll de Cent

València

Avinguda de Roma

Aribau

Balmes

Balmes

Mallo

rca

Viladomat

Rocafort

Comte Borrell

Riera Amelia

Calabria

Floridablanca

Tam

arit

Mansó

Rambla de Catalunya

Hospital

Sant

a Mad

rona

Pelayo

University ofBarcelona

Urgell

Universitat

Universitat

Sant Antoni

Catalunya

Passeigde Gracia

Urquinaona

Urquinaona

Liceu

Drasssanes

Jaume I

Barceloneta

Pl. Catalunya

Mercat deSanta Caterina

Santa Mariadel Pi

Centre de CulturaContemporania

de Barcelona

BarcelonaMuseum of

Contemporary Art

Pompeu FabraUniversity

ColumbusMonument

Palau de la Música Catalana

Museu Maritimde Barcelona

Passeig de Gràcia

La Rambla

G LD

F

EB

Church of Santa Maria del Mar

Barcelona Zoo

Parc de laCiutadella

Passeig de Pujades

Arc de Triomph

J

DH

I

B

C

EF

G

A

Liceu

PLACES MENTIONED IN THIS GUIDE

FOOD AND DRINK

F Llamber (p.17)

G Mercat Princesa (p.22)

ESSENTIALS (P.48)

H Lost Property office

I Canadian Consulate

J Guàrdia Urbana station

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H

H

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeig de Gràcia

Tuset Aribau

Muntaner

Aribau Comte d’Urgell

Calvet

Sagues Santaló

Muntaner

Travessera de Gràcia

Recto

r Ubach

Via Augusta

Balmes

Via AugustaGran de Gràcia

Torrent de l’Olla

Travessera de Gracia

Peril

Montseny

l’Or

T

ordera

Passeig de Sant Joan

C

òrsega

In

dustria

Pro

vença

Pau Claris

Bailen

Bailen

Girona Bruc


Mallo

rca

V

alència

Còrsega

Paris

Londre

s

Rosselló

M

allorca

Provença

Diputa

ció

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Conse

ll de Cent

Aragó

Valencia

Marina

Ronda de Sant Pere

Gleva

Padua

Tetuan

Arc deTriomf

FremapBarcelona

Centre deOftalmolgia

Barraguer

Diagonal

Provença

Mercat deGalvany

Gràcia

SantGervasi

Pl. Molina

Vila deGracia

Diagonal

Girona

Temple de laSagrada Família

SagradaFamília Sagrada

Família

Verdaguer

Verdaguer

Monumental

Mercat de laConcepció

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeigde Gràcia

B

A

F

C

Bonavista

Paris

Bruc

Roselló

n

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Saragossa FontanaAstú

rias

Aribau

C

A

H

G

I

F

D

E

B

EIXAMPLE + GRÀCIA

LITTLE BLACK BOOK (P.50)

A Úbeda

B Bobby Gin

NEW IN TOWN (P.6)

C Il Magazzino

D Bardot

E Café Godot

F VegeTart

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H

H

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeig de Gràcia

Tuset Aribau

Muntaner

Aribau Comte d’Urgell

Calvet

Sagues Santaló

Muntaner

Travessera de Gràcia

Recto

r Ubach

Via Augusta

Balmes

Via AugustaGran de Gràcia

Torrent de l’Olla

Travessera de Gracia

Peril

Montseny

l’Or

T

ordera


C

òrsega

In

dustria

Pro

vença

Pau Claris

Bailen

Bailen

Girona Bruc


Mallo

rca

V

alència

Còrsega

Paris

Londre

s

Rosselló

M

allorca

Provença

Diputa

ció

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Conse

ll de Cent

Aragó

Valencia

Marina

Ronda de Sant Pere

Gleva

Padua

Tetuan

Arc deTriomf

FremapBarcelona

Centre deOftalmolgia

Barraguer

Diagonal

Provença

Mercat deGalvany

Gràcia

SantGervasi

Pl. Molina

Vila deGracia

Diagonal

Girona

Temple de laSagrada Família

SagradaFamília Sagrada

Família

Verdaguer

Verdaguer

Monumental

Mercat de laConcepció

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeigde Gràcia

B

A

F

C

Bonavista

Paris

Bruc

Roselló

n

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Saragossa FontanaAstú

rias

Aribau

C

A

H

G

I

F

D

E

B

PLACES MENTIONED IN THIS GUIDE

FOOD & DRINK

G Oli... Sal... (p.18)

ESSENTIALS (P.48)

H New Zealand consulate

I British consulate

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Ads Autumn 2013.indd 8 9/10/13 12:34:45 PM

PARRUP4CONCEPT STOREPARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture. Why PARRUP? Because we love talented people. Because we want to showcase what they can offer. Because we believe in local economy and production transparency. Nothing more, nothing less.

Banys Nous 20 www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

SHOPPING DIRectORy

24 KILAteS4STREETWEARLocated in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands such as New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

Comerç 29 T. 93 268 8437 www.24-kts.com

BAteAU LUNe4TOY SHOPBateau Lune is a shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, micro scooters, kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Come visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia! www.facebook.com/bateaulune Plaça Virreina 7 T. 93 218 6907 [email protected] www.bateaulune.com

cONtI4FASHIONDesigner clothes shop with top brands–G-star Raw, Franklin & Marshall, Replay, Antony Morato, Gola, Superdry, Cruyff, Bikkembergs, Adidas, Diesel, New Balance–and more.

L'illa shopping center, Diagonal 512, 08006 T. 93 416 1211www.econti.com www.facebook.com/conti.dconti

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Ads Summer 2013.indd 5 5/28/13 2:04:45 PM

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Need to KnowBARCELONA: thE pRACtiCAL iNfO

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Emergencies 112 Ambulance service (Ambulància) 061 Catalan Police (Mossos d’Esquadra) 112 City Police (Guàrdia Urbana) 092 Fire Service (Bombers) 080

if YOU LOSE YOUR CREDit CARDS Visa - 900 99 1124 Mastercard - 900 97 1231 Amex - 902 375 637 Diner’s Club - 900 801 331

iN thE EVENt Of A CRiME The most central place to report a crime is the Guàrdia Urbana station at Ram-blas 43. Tel. 93 256 2430 (24 hr; English spoken). www.bcn.es/guardiaurbana. To get a police report for your insurance you can go to the Mossos d’Esquadra station at Nou de la Rambla 76-80, Raval. Tel. 93 306 2300. You can also fill in a report online: go to the website www.gencat.net/mossos and select ‘Denúncies’ then ‘Denúncies per internet’ (English op-tion available). You will still have to take the completed form to the station to be signed within 72 hours.

OthER USEfUL NUMBERS Barcelona general information (24h): 010 National directory enquiries: 11818

LOSt pROpERtY Anything left on public transport or found by police is sent either to the TMB office at Diagonal metro station (top of Passeig de Gràcia) or to the Oficina de Troballes (municipal lost property of-fice) at Pl. Carles Pi i Sunyer 8-10; open Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm. Most items are kept for three months. Phone - 010.

CONSULAtES AUSTRALIA: There is currently no Australian consulate here. If advice/help is needed, contact the Madrid embassy: tel. 91 353 6600. www.spain.embassy.gov.au CANADA: Plaça de Catalunya 9, 1º 2ª. Tel. 93 270 3614. www.canadainternational.gc.ca NEW ZEALAND: Travessera de Grà-cia 64. Tel. 93 209 0399 www.nzembassy.com REPUBLIC OF IRELAND: Gran Via Carles III 94. Tel. 93 491 5021. www.irlanda.es UK: Avda. Diagonal 477. Tel. 902 109 356. www.ukinspain.fco.gov.uk USA: Passeig Reina Elisenda 23. Tel. 93 280 2227. www.madrid.usembassy.gov

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Pharmacy Serra mandri4chemistThe helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this well-known Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

mary d. mccarthy4DOctORDr. Mary McCarthy, a native English speaker, is an American-trained doctor for adults with over 20 years of experience in professional, private health care in Barcelona. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral 1ª FGC Diagonal or Gràcia T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040

the BritiSh dental clinic4DeNtistDental emergency whilst on holiday? Contact the British Dental Clinic for a fast, efficient solution to your problem, so that you can continue enjoying your holiday in comfort. The British Dental Clinic has a patient-friendly philosophy and a commitment to total oral health.Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Familia (L5) Monumental (L2)T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 [email protected]

radiO taXi cOmtal4tAXiLooking for a speedy ride across town? In a rush to get to the airport? Call Radio Taxi Comtal for a 24-hour taxi service with a range of vehicles available, including 5 and 6-seaters. Services available to the airport, city-wide points of interest, viewing points over the city and road trips around Catalunya. Please show this guide for a VIP treatment.

T. 93 519 1919 www.radiotaxicomtal.com

emerGency directOry

Radio Taxi

Comtal

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Little Black BookESSENTIAL ADDRESSES FOR YOUR BARCELONA STAY

50

FAMILY FUNAQUARIUM: Moll d’Espanya del Port Vell., www.aquariumbcn.com. Located next to the city’s old port, this is home to thousands of sea creatures. It also has an interactive area for children to dis-cover the nature of the Mediterranean.

TIBIDABO: Plaça Tibidabo 3-4. www.tibidabo.es. Overlooking the city is this attraction park with rides and activities for all ages. Part of the fun is getting there, which can involve train, tram and funicular.

LABYRINTH PARK: Passeig dels Castanyers 1. www.bcn.cat/parcsijar-dins. Definitely off the beaten track, this historic park (the oldest in Bar-celona) has an entertaining maze at its heart that will keep the kids enter-tained in their search for the middle.

GIN AND TONIC The craze for this classic combo goes on and on in Barcelona. Here are some of the best places to partake...

XIX BAR: Rocafort 19, Poble Sec; www.xixbar.com. Tel. 93 423 4314.

IDEAL: Aribau 89, Eixample; www.idealcocktailbar.com. Tel. 93 453 1028.

UBEDA: Còrcega 339, Gràcia; www.ubedagintapas.com. Tel. 93 415 2537

BOBBY GIN: Francisco Giner 47, Gràcia; www.bobbygin.com. Tel. 93 368 1892.

MARKETSEveryone knows the Boqueria, but Barcelona has a lot of other notewor-thy markets.

BRICK LANE BCN. Pick up some choice pieces of vintage clothing and accessories at this popular monthly event. Check their Facebook page for venue and date details.

SANTA LLUCIA. Discover unusual Christmas gifts at this seasonal market in front of Barcelona Cathedral. You’ll find Catalan nativity figures including the famous caganer (shitter) as well as other festive ornaments. Nov 25th to Dec 23rd. www.bcn.cat

ENCANTS. Barcelona’s biggest flea market is due to move home soon, just over the road from its current loca-tion in Plaça Glòries. Wander around and perhaps pick up a bargain from the wild and wonderful objects on sale. www.encantsbcn.com

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Documents

Tourist Guide Autumn 2013