TravelX_May_2010

Putting the zing back to exploring the world

TAWANGJourney to

Football or Luxury Cruises?

Options galore...

Bored, braised and roasted in the heat of the plains? It's time to head to the hills!

Up hill, down dale

VOL. I, ISSUE IV, MAY 2010 � Rs 60

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CONTENTS

COVER STORY

COMPASS

TWIN CITIESREADY RECKONER

DOUBLE DELIGHT!Known for her critically acclaimedperformances in many films,Nandita Das has always been theDelhi girl, until recently, when herheart took her to Mumbai.

GRABYOURDEALWhat's on offer by the airlinesand agents for the FIFA 2010?Or with some enticing cruisepackages, are you ready to hitthe waters with your spouse?Take a look…

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SUMMER IS BACK

8NEWS, LAUNCHES & DEALS

THE JOURNEY The quaint little villages along thehills and the monasteries makeTawang a celestial paradise with lotsin store for the discerning traveller…

SHORT TAKES We bring you the latest from the travel world: special packages,restaurant and hotel openings along with some attractive dealsfrom across the globe.

The internet has been surfed and guidebooks have been thumbedthrough, but if you are still frazzled about where to go with yourfamily this summer, explore some wonderful, lesser known and evenless crowded locales that we are suggesting to you…

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MILES N MORE

WALK YOURWAYTHROUGH…

56 FOCUS EYE TALK

Some amazing shots fromthe camera of Dr AkhterHusain - an orthodontistand a photographer by

passion

Are you planning another oh-so-familiar summer holiday inthe hills? Drop the idea. Stockup your energy and try somecool summer treks chalked outfor the adventurous in you.

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Editorial and Marketing Office: Newsline Publications Pvt Ltd., D-11(Basement)Nizamuddin (East), New Delhi 110 013. Phones: +91-11-41033381-82

Mumbai: Platina, 9th floor, C-Block, G-59, Next to Citibank, Bandra Kurla Complex,Bandra (East), Mumbai 400051, Tel.: +91 22 3953 0528

All information in TravelX is derived from sources we consider reliable. It is passedon to our readers without any responsibility on our part. Opinions/views expressed

by third parties in abstract or in interviews are not necessarily shared by us. Materialappearing in the magazine cannot be reproduced in whole or in part(s) without priorpermission. The publisher assumes no responsibility for material lost or damaged intransit. The publisher reserves the right to refuse, withdraw or otherwise deal with

all advertisements without explanation. All advertisements must comply with theIndian Advertisements Code. The publisher will not be liable for any loss caused by

any delay in publication, error or failure of advertisement to appear.

Owned and published by K Srinivasan 4C Pocket-IV, Mayur Vihar Phase-I, Delhi-91 andprinted by him at Nutech Photolithographers, B-240, Okhla

Industrial Area, Phase-I, New Delhi-110020.

Editor: K SRINIVASAN Managing Editor: TIRTHANKAR GHOSH

Co-ordinating Editor: PRIYANKA SAXENAReporters: Punit Mishra, Jasleen Kaur, Sreya Shandilya

Special Correspondent - Mumbai: Roohi Ahmad (Mob. 09820295648)Design: Pradeep Jha, Ruchi Sinha, Jitendra Rawat, Shivnath

Director: Ravi SharmaDirector (Admin & Corporate Affairs) : Rajiv Singh

Senior Manager (Marketing): Varun Malhotra (Mob. 9650433099)Manager (Business Development): Pranav Khullar (Mob. 9650433088)

Regional Sales Manager (South): Karthik K. V. (Mob. 9880209405)Asst. Manager (Corporate Affairs): Amit Sinha Subscription: Jaya Singh (Mob. 9650433044)

Executive Director: Renu Mittalemail: [email protected], [email protected]

68LUXURY ABOUNDS ATWESTIN HYDERABAD

Volume I No 4

Cover Photo:Nandu Manjeshwar

Cover Design:Jitendra Rawat

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ART EXHIBITIONBY KAREEM KHAN

VENUE: Stupa 18 Art Gallery, K-64,Sector-18 market, NoidaDATE: Till May 16, 2010‘Beyond The Obvious’ — a soloexhibition of recent works byKareem Khan is on for all to see.The exhibition is on from 11am to8pm and is closed on Tuesdays.There is no entry fee. For details,contact: 09811028157

YODDHAON KASANGRAM — INDIANVERSION OF WWEVenue: Tau Devi Lal Stadium, RajivChowk, GurgaonDate: May 8, 2010 The World Wrestling Entertainment(WWE) heavy weight champion will nowbe fighting in the Indian ring. YoddhaonKa Sangram will see professionalwrestlers from India, South Africa,Turkey and Cuba battle it out for thechampionship title. WWE superstar TheGreat Khali aka Dalip Singh Rana will bethe guest of honour. For ticketbookings, contact 9650559649,96504166196 and 9671033553.

VENUE: Netaji Indoor Stadium, KolkataDATE: May 8 - 10, 2010East India Jewellery Show 2010 (EIJS 2010) is allset to kick off its second edition. The three-dayshow is the best platform for showcasing a widerange of fashion jewellery, gems and alliedproducts. EIJS 2010 will provide a wide opportunityto meet all professionals from gems and jewelleryindustry under one roof to share and exchange theirexperiences and learn about new technologies ingem and jewellery production.For details, contact: 022485773, 022481540

EAST INDIA JEWELLERY SHOW 2010

What's happening around thecountry this month? Choose fromthe hottest events and showstaking place in different parts ofIndia in the world of music, art,Entertainment and food.

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ON VACATION — PLAYVENUE: Ranga Shankara, JP Nagar,BengaluruDATE: May 7 - 8, 2010Directed by Vinay Verma, "On Vacation" isan English translation of the Marathi play,'Chotyashya Suttit', by Sachin Kundalkar. Set in the city of Mumbai inmodern times, this play basically deals with relationships: man-woman, man-man or between human beings. This 120 minutesduration play will be showed at 7.30pm on both days. Buy ticketsonline or get them delivered to your home (Call at 9880036611) oruse mobile (through NGPay) to get tickets for the show.

GROUP ART SHOW: HAVE IOPPOSED YOU?

VENUE: Galerie Mirchandani Steinruecke, 16/18,Sunny House, Mereweather Road, Colaba, Mumbai

DATE: Ongoing till May 22, 2010Take a look at 'Have I Opposed You?' a new art ex-

hibition featuring the works of artists from Indiaand Pakistan. The list includes Waseem Ahmed,

Ambreen Butt, Abir Karmakar, Nalini Malani, Kan-ishka Raja, C.K. Rajan, Rashid Rana and Aji V N. The

exhibition is on from 11am to 6pm.

Pogo M.A.D LiveSummer Camp 2010VENUE: Row House No. 3, Heramb Society, Pashan SusRoad, PuneDATE: Ongoing till May 27, 2010Pogo is organising a M.A.D Summer Camp at variousdesignated centres in the city. The aim of arranging SummerCamp is to equip children with utmost innovative andcreative exposure. The M.A.D Summer Camp incorporatesvarious activities comprising legends and fantasy, wiz craftand creative paper craft. In this camp, children will betaught creative and innovative art and craft as seen onPogo. It is also conducting a workshop on Smart Potato. Thepurpose behind M.A.D. Summer Camp and Smart Potato isjust fun for children. For registration, call: 02240792402

MOUNT ABU, SUMMERFESTIVALDATE: May 26-28, 2010In the picturesque town of Mount Abu, theSummer Festival is a welcome change.Whether it is folk dances, boat races orqawwalis, everything about this festival is verycultural. Needless to say that it is a great wayto soak in the hospitality of the people. Threedays pass in a jiffy with events like skaters'race, horse race and tug of war. A display offireworks will adorn the sky every evening.

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LIFESTYLE EXHIBITION ONLONDON SHOPPING FESTIVALVENUE: St George School Grounds, Poonamalle HighRoad, ChennaiDATE: May 1 - 16, 2010An international lifestyle exhibition on London ShoppingFestival will display on sale products of electronics,automobiles, and interiors including top national andinternational brands. It is going to provide discountson all purchases made. For more details, contact 9894284932.

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The article "Shoot! Face to face with Mr1411" in the April issue was aninteresting read. Kanha National Park isa wonderful place to explore and tour.Apart from being an enjoyable read, thepiece was also very expressively done.The way the writer explained herjourney - the forest and wide diversity ofwildlife - I actually felt as if I was there.She has evocatively captured thewonders of Kanha, and photographswere truly complementary. I also likedthe factfile boxes (useful tips, gettingthere, when to go, where to stay andplease remember), which I think is vitalfor any first-time traveller. I loved thestory. Kudos to you!

Shilpa Saluja, New Delhi

First of all, the cover is truly refreshing.The cute tiger on cover is really eye-candy. I have always wanted to exploreEurope by Eurail, and after reading thearticle "A slice of Europe" in your lastissue, i.e. April 2010, I am determined

to turn my desire into a reality prettysoon! I must say Pushpesh Pant's "Forthe love of Shaami Kebab" was anenjoyable read. The way it was writtenactually had my mouth watering. Iremember going to Shekhawat's when Iwas very young, but now, I shall visitLucknow with my wife and will surelysavour these yummy kebabs.As an avid book lover, I thank you foradding book review section in themagazine. It was something I felt themagazine was missing, but not anymore.

Saurabh Gulati, Bengaluru

Thanks to my business, I have to travel alot and have stayed in many hotels. Butwhat I have read about Alila Diwa, Goa,in you hotel review section, iscompletely unique. Surprisingly, noother publication has covered it yet, asper my knowledge as I haven't readabout the hotel. I was quite intrigued toread about the Spice Studio, wheretourist can create his own meal forhimself and his family. Really, a greatidea! In fact, I am planning a trip to Goawith family, and now that I know aboutthis new property, I might plan my staythere!

Abhishek Mehta, Mumbai

Edelweiss - remember thatimmortal song from The Sound ofMusic - played by a petite lass on

the piano brought back some wonderfulmemories of trips to the mountains. Themountains always seemed so far away andmysterious. The mystery came, I believe,from the stories one heard from eldersthat they had gleaned from books byLobsang Rampa with evocative titles likeDoctor from Lhasa and Living with theLama, among many others. The mysteryalso came from the home-grown storiesabout saints and sadhus who spent yearsroaming in the mountains to attain a stateof salvation.

Indeed, peace and salvation are whatwe aim for our readers. Bored stiff,braised and roasted in the heat andhumidity of the plains, Travel X literallywent up the hill to deliver this package ofgoodies. We bring you treks that youcould take up the hills of the north, south,east and west. At the end there is the'Holy Grail': fresh air - a costlycommodity in these days of pollution -peace and tranquility and nature in itssometimes-flamboyant-sometimes-sober beauty.

That is not all. Now that the IPLmatches are over, a bigger fiesta awaitssports lovers. There's the football WorldCup and the icing on the cake is that it istaking place in South Africa. What morecould one ask? But wait, there is more…Let's go a-cruising! Which liner would it be?

Tirthankar [email protected]

LETTERS

TALLTALES

Check-in/Check-out

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SHORT TAKES8

IFYOU choose to fly in

the Diamond First or PearlBusiness Class from India to any of

the Etihad destinations via Abu Dhabi,you can bag a two night’s complimentary

stay at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers, one ofDubai’s finest hotels. Also included in thespecial promotion is a free limousine transfer toand from Dubai, just 45 minutes from AbuDhabi International Airport. The exclusiveoffer is available for passengers travelling

from Mumbai, New Delhi, Chennai andHyderabad, travelling between

March 10 and June 30.

DID YOU KNOW?

THE LUXURY of flying in flatbed seats has been the monopolyof the big international aircrafts, until AirAsia decided to changethe norm, becoming the first low-cost carrier in the world tointroduce flatbed seats in its aircraft. The flatbed seats arestandard Business Class specifications of 20" width, 60" pitch andstretches out to 77” in full recline position. The seats featureuniversal power sockets, adjustable headrests and built-inpersonal utilities such as tray table, drink holder, reading lightand privacy screen. Premium seat guests will get to enjoy thepremium complimentary product and services such as pick a seat,priority check-in, priority boarding, priority baggage, baggageallowance, combo meal and comfort kit. Premium seats areavailable online at www.airasia.com

Revolutionisinglow cost travel

WHILE DREARY hot summer threatens to bog youdown, R The Spa at Radisson Delhi promises to keepyou cool, refreshed and rejuvenated with its refreshingsummer spa treatments. It is offering three differentsummer spa packages. The first package includes greencoffee wrap, relaxing and refreshing aroma massage andherbal tea; the second spa treatment comprises anti-oxidant facial mask, manicure and pedicure andrefreshing floral bath; and third spa treatment includeswatermelon facial, papaya body wrap and aromatherapymassage. All this is accompanied by a welcome drink onarrival, use of jacuzzi, steam (optional) and swimmingpool (optional). All this and more for just Rs 6,500.

Enjoy your summer withR The Spa

SPA BREAKS

WONDERING WHAT to gift your mum this Mother’sday? Here’s your gift — a nice relaxing massage, or asimilar other treatment, to pamper her and torejuvenate her senses that will surely make her feelspecial! Four Seasons Mumbai, in the honour ofmothers, has introduced month-long ‘spa specials’. Letyour mother enjoy the warmth of a 90 minute ‘hotstone massage’ and feel the tension and stress meltaway. What’s more, for mothers-to-be, there is‘pregnancy scrub and massage’ package that combinesthe vibrational energy of ILA’s ‘beyond organic’products (spa products of hotel) with a nurturing fullbody massage focusing on mum’s tummy to bringpeace and joy to both baby and mum! So, visit and rejuvenate your senses anytime in themonth of May for just Rs 4,900 per treatment. All ratesare subject to seven per cent service charge andapplicable government taxes. Offer is valid only forladies and advance bookings are recommended atwww.fourseasons.com/mumbai.

Spa havens for mums

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TRIPADVISOR AND YATRA.COM haveformed an alliance, which will see contentcollaboration in the Indian online travelspace. The alliance will allow Yatra.comclients access to the unbiased hotel reviewsposted by travellers on TripAdvisor,including those posted on its India website.This will enable them to make the bestpossible choice of hotels based on theirneeds.

MUMBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLTD (MIAL) has recently unveiled the newdomestic passenger terminal 1C at theChhatrapati Shivaji International Airport(CSIA) in Mumbai. The terminal has sixnew passenger boarding bridges and offersseamless connectivity between terminals 1Aand 1B. Spread over 2,97,194 sq ft acrossthree levels, terminal 1C will increase thepassenger handling capacity of the domesticterminals while enhancing the overallpassenger comfort and convenience.

DRAGONAIR, a member of the CathayPacific group, after cutting its flights tofour-a-week in January 2009, reinstateddaily flights between Hong Kong andBengaluru from last month. This is the onlyroute in India where Dragon Air hasoperations.

KINGFISHER AIRLINES, India’s onlyfive star airline rated by Skytrax, haslaunched flights from Mumbai and NewDelhi to Bangkok. The launch of these newroutes mark the fourth international routeout of Mumbai and third international routeout of New Delhi. The flights on theseroutes will be operated using KingfisherAirlines’ modern fleet of Airbus A320aircraft featuring a dual-class cabin with fivestar luxury on Kingfisher First andKingfisher Class, the premium economyservice.

JET AIRWAYS has recently launched dailynon-stop operations to the South Africancapital, Johannesburg from Mumbai.Passengers travelling on Jet Airways’ flightswill now be able to book onwardconnections to other South Africandestinations like Cape Town, Durban, Port

SPEED READERGoa or Jaipur?

Time to pay homage

WHILE THE mercury may be soaring at both the places, butwhen has heat ever deterred people from enjoying a vacation?Royal Orchid Hotels is offering some unbeatable offer thissummers starting at just Rs 16,500 for a three nights/four daypackage in a deluxe room in its property in South Goa. Thepackage also includes a Goan welcome drink on arrival,complimentary breakfast, lunch and dinner at Cosmos — thesea view restaurant, half day sightseeing by AC coachfollowed by one hour Sunset Cruise on River Mandovi.Visit Jaipur anytime from May 1 to July 31 to enjoy theluxurious two nights and three days stay at Royal OrchidCentral for just Rs 5,999. The package also includes a nonalcoholic welcome drink on arrival, accommodation in deluxeroom for two, buffet breakfast and 20 per cent discount onfood and beverage and laundry during the stay.

EVERY YEAR, a vast number of tourists flock to Shirdi toseek the blessings of Sri Sai Baba. This year, Sun n Sand isoffering an attractive summer package to pay homage at SaiBaba’s shrine in its property in Shirdi. One can choose accommodation in a temple facing roomfor Rs 4,350 per night, while pool facing and studio roomscost Rs 4,850 and Rs 5,350 respectively. All prices areexcluding 10 per cent tax and are net non-commissionable.The package includes all three purely vegetarian meals(breakfast, lunch and dinner; extra meal will be charged),complimentary temple shuttle and free use of health cluband swimming pool. For more details, contact at + 919657777999 or mail at [email protected]

DON’T MISS


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Head to the hills

Weekend in NagpurDON’T MISS

IF YOUR weekend getaway is long overdue, well, hotel Sunn Sand has some good news in store for you. The propertyis offering an attractive weekend stay package in its propertyin Nagpur, for just Rs 4,999. The package includes superiorroom accommodation, Saturday early check-in 10am,Sunday late check-out 6pm, Saturday multi-cuisine dinner,Sunday brunch, bed tea and evening tea, free entry to ‘OnThe Rocks’ the disc on Saturday night, free games, freelaundry (up to eight pieces), free kids stay (below 12 years,two kids), free unlimited internet usage and free car washon Sunday. So, what are you waiting for? Pack your bagsand get ready to give yourself a mini vacation this weekend. For bookings, mail at [email protected] orcontact at 07103 663333.

TAKE A refreshing break from the sultry city heat and dustand head towards the cool and scenic hills of Mussoorie.Park Plaza Sylverton Mussoorie is offering a special twonights / three days summer stay package starting Rs 15,499on weekdays and Rs 16,499 on weekends. The packageincludes accommodation for two adults and two childrenbelow 10 years of age, buffet / fixed menu breakfast andlunch/dinner, complimentary fresh fruit basket, a platter ofcookies, mineral water, goodnight chocolates placed in theroom and15 per cent discount on all food and beverageorders. For more information and room reservations pleasecall on 0135 2635525 - 30 or mail at [email protected]

Elizabeth, the famed Kruger National Parkand East London. Additionally, inconjunction with its daily non-stop serviceto Johannesburg, the airline has alsointroduced exclusive South AfricanJetEscapes packages, which will enabletourists to explore the Rainbow Nation withits perfect blend of wildlife, luxury,adventure and stunning landscapes.

THE TAJ HOTELS RESORTS ANDPALACES have been voted as India’s BestHotel Group at the recently concluded CondeNast Traveler Readers’ Travel Awards India2010 held in Mumbai. This award beartestimony to its dedication in continuouslyinnovating and providing guests with world-class hospitality. The awards are based on theratings received from a sophisticated group ofwell-traveled readers of Conde Nast Travelerfrom across the globe, who have rankedhotels on various criteria.

AIRASIA, the largest low-cost carrier in Asia,recently became the first and only airlinefrom Malaysia to operate flights on thePenang and Chennai route. AirAsia’sextremely affordable fares starting fromRM199 (INR 2,999) one way for this newdirect flight from Chennai to Penang willdefinitely contribute in increasing thenumber of tourists arriving into Penang thisyear. AirAsia conquered India skies by stormin January this year by launching six newroutes to India which include key metro citiesof Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Mumbai and NewDelhi from their Kuala Lumpur hub, whileChennai is connected from both KualaLumpur and Penang. The Kuala Lumpur —Chennai route will begin operations on May 17, 2010.

NASAIR, the Saudi-based low-cost carrier,has recently launched India operations withfour weekly flights to Mumbai. The airlinewill gradually expand operations to Kochi,Kozhikode and Delhi. In an introductoryoffer, Nasair is offering special fare tocelebrate the Mumbai launch with pricesstarting from $66.6 (US$ 1 is equal to INR 44.28). It will fly Riyadh to Mumbai onSaturday, Monday, Wednesday andThursday, while on return, it will operate onTuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday.

SPEED READER


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NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

KOH SAMUI, the perfectly locatedcharming tropical island of Thailandwill soon witness opening of theBanyan Tree Samui hotel. Theproperty will take the number ofBanyan Tree Hotels and Resorts inThailand to three. Combining thebest elements of a tropical getaway,

Banyan Tree Samui will offer largeinfinity pools in its villas, along witha hydrotherapy spa, which will alsobe the first hydrotherapy spa in KohSamui. The hallmarks of Banyan TreeSamui will be Banyan Tree Spa andits exclusive hydrotherapy facility,The Rainforest, which has beendesigned like a hydrothermalcircuit, comprising alternating hotand cold thermal cabins, for couplesto embark on a trail of wellnesstreats. The Rainforest Trail offers10 different hydrothermal therapy

experiences such as Rain Walk,Aroma Steam, Nature’s Glow andScrub, Rasul, Finnish Sauna, BucketDrench Shower, Ice Fountain, SwissShower and Vitality Pool. Spa-goerscan also look forward to signaturetreatments delivered by professionalspa therapists, trained at theexclusive Banyan Tree Spa Academyin Phuket, Thailand. Holistic Asian-inspired spa experiences aredelivered in 10 spacious indoor spapavilions with beach views.For further information please visitat www.banyantree.com

Koh Samui, Thailand gets its first hydrotherapy spa

Baddi gets Legend Sarovar PorticoJUST 37KM from Chandigarh, on the Baddi— Nalagarh Highway, Sarovar Hotels &Resorts have recently opened their newproperty — Legend Sarovar Portico. In closeproximity to both the airport as well as therailway station, the hotel ensures comfort forboth business and leisure travellers. LegendSarovar Portico has a total of 49 rooms andsuites with LCD television and wi-fi access.Dining options include Seasons, the 24x7coffee shop and Blue-O, the lounge bar. Thehotel also offers conference and banquetingfacilities. The property is offering anintroductory room tariff starting at Rs 2,450plus taxes, for double occupancy. IHG (InterContinental Hotels

Group) HAS launched the firstnew-built Holiday Inn hotel inMumbai. The 225-room propertyrepresents the new Holiday Innbrand, which is in the midst ofthe biggest re-launch inhospitality history, creating amore contemporary brand imageincluding a new logo. Situated atSaki Naka junction in Andheri,Holiday Inn MumbaiInternational Airport offers awide selection of food andbeverage outlets such as Saptami— an all day dining restaurantwith seven unique interactive livestations, 72 — the lobby bar,Saptami Express — Mumbai’snewest Deli. A world class spaand infinity pool are some otheradded features at the property.

Brand HolidayInn gets a facelift

OFFERING MORE ‘choice’ to the travellers to Gurgaon, Choice Hospitality hasrecently launched its Quality Inn Bliss in Gurgaon. A contemporary business hotel,the property has 39 well appointed guestrooms with modern facilities such as LCDtelevision, DVD player, mini bar, electronic safe and wi-fi internet access. Its multi-cuisine restaurant ‘Fusion’ and lounge bar ‘Celsius’ offers plenty for a gourmand.‘Viceroy’ state-of-the-art board room is ideal for small meetings for up to 18 guests,while its fully equipped banquet and conference halls ‘Ritz I’ and ‘Ritz II’ canaccommodate up to 120 guests.

Enjoy a blissful stay in Gurgaon

TRAILER


Luxury wildlife resortsInfinity Corbett Wilderness

a member of the

Small Luxury Hotels

of the World

Infinity Bandhavgarh Wilderness

Infinity Rann of Kutch

situated right next to

the park bg Ketkiya

off the beaten track

near an extinct volcano,

yet close to Bhuj

For Bookings: Mumbai : 9930807567,

Delhi : 9650193664, 9911813300, 9811313300

[email protected]

[email protected]

http://infinityresorts.com

Resorting to Nature

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Salvatore Ianniello, Representative India,ENIT- Italian State Tourist Board revealssome secrets of Italy. Italy in your words?My Italy as your India is a representative ofmixed culture and traditions.Many people think of Italy as a high enddestination. What about an Economy Classtraveller? This is a misconception. Italy is a country forall the seasons and for all kinds of budget. It isfor all ages, for young, for children, formarried. Our services are for all.A must do activity in Italy?Italy is a lifestyle, all you have to do here is tolive Italy and get the feel of it.Must see in Italy? Italy, as India, has been the victim of manyinvasion and intrusions. These forays madeItaly a unique nation with a variety ofcultures. Right from North to South, Italyreflects colourful traditions. There are manyhistoric cities in this part of Italy such asTurin, port of Genoa, leaning tower of Pisa,Palermo, Horace and many more.One dish not to miss? Italy is famous for hosts of dishes like itsbreads, pizza, pasta, cheese and pastry. SouthItaly is famous for Pasta with olive oil andNorth is famous for rice with butter.What plans does ENIT have for Indiantravellers? ENIT undertakes a host of activities in orderto promote Italy as a tourism destination inIndia. Media campaigns, press trips, tradefairs and fam trips, co-marketing with ourtour operators in India, seminars on Italy forIndian students. Lastly but certainly not theleast, we are also focusing on Bollywood.With the success of “Bachna Ae Haseeno” and“Kambakht Ishq”, we are working withimportant Indian production houses topromote Italy as a Bollywood destination. Infact, another Nadiadwala Grandsonproduction, “Housefull”, starring DeepikaPadukone and Akshay Kumar, was shot inPuglia, Italy in September 2009.

QUICKIENEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

LOCATED ADJACENT to theHussain Sagar Lake, The Park Hotels,pioneers of the boutique hotel conceptin India, have launched their firsthotel in Hyderabad. The hotelincorporates 270 guest rooms, deluxeand presidential suites, threerestaurants, banquet halls, four bars,lounges and entertainment venues. Aunique 3-D horizon pool with a 125 ftinfinity edge is located on the thirdfloor of the hotel, offering guests aspectacular view over the lake andcity. Bold jewel colour accents —Roby, Coral, Emerald, Peridot andSapphire, have been used in each ofthe five floors. All rooms are likejewellery boxes and are replete with a10" custom-made mattress, a mediahub that includes a 42" LCDtelevision, DVD player, I-pod andlaptop (on request), high speed wi-fiinternet connectivity, speciallycommissioned artwork, four fixturebathrooms with a unique deep- soakbathtub and a bath menu. Thebanquet halls, spread over 10,000 sqft, provide a business and banquetingspace that is spectacular forconferences, dinners and weddings.The hotel also includes an exclusive

retail space, Tresorie, breathtakinglydesigned to create a rich sensoryretailing experience and providing anexquisitely crafted setting for theworld’s most precious brands. The Park, Hyderabad is a LEEDGOLD certified green hotel by the USGreen Building Council. TheLeadership in Energy andEnvironmental Design (LEED) GreenBuilding Rating System isinternationally recognised andmeasures how efficiently a building orcommunity performs across all relevantmetrics like energy savings, waterefficiency, CO2 emissions reduction,improved indoor environmental qualityas well as stewardship of resources andsensitivity to their impacts. The Park,Hyderabad maintains low outdoor heatabsorption, high acoustic levels,minimal emission levels, energy-efficient lighting, and utilises naturallighting to maximum potential. Inaddition to sewage treatment plantsand rainwater harvesting to enhancewater efficiency, the materials used inconstruction and interiors alsoconstitute a significant amount ofrecycled matter such as glass, paper,metal, etc.

The Park opens in city of Nizams


WANTING TO go on a luxury train tourbut worried about missing the crucialepisode of your soap opera? Not anymore!

Palace on Wheels, the first luxurytrain of India, has added another ‘first’ toits kitty. The train, along with its new kin,Royal Rajasthan on Wheels, has tied upwith Dish TV, one of the many direct-to-home (DTH) service providers in thecountry, and will now show a widespectrum of channels in the train.

All set to change the perception of traintravel in India, the news has come as apleasant surprise for travellers who werekeen on planning a trip aboard these luxurytrains. From IPL to EPL, now you will missnothing on your sojourn. Wondering howthis will work? The technology, i.e.installing a mobile dish antennae at the roofof the train that will auto track the satelliteat all times, has been approved from theRDSO (Research Design and StandardsOrganisation). This technology has beendeveloped keeping the Indian trainenvironment of high jerks, hightemperatures and moisture levels in mind.

Dish TV was running its trial run,which was limited only to the barlounge of both trains, for last fewmonths. After ensuring its successfulfunctioning, the company, beginningAugust, when the next seasoncommences for Palace on Wheels, plansto install its sets in each bogey. So if youthought your bogey is just like yourbedroom minus your television setwhere you love to enjoy a late nightmovie the last time that you wereaboard it, try it now and enjoy theuninterrupted clear view of all yourfavourite soap operas, as you chugthrough the desert beauty of Rajasthan.

The tourists travelling on Palace onWheels and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels,beginning August, will now be able toenjoy almost 110 satellite channelsshowing business news, current affairs,sports, Hollywood Bollywoodblockbusters, music and travel andlifestyle, among others. Looks likeluxury train travel in India just addedanother feather to its cap.

FIR

Entertainment galore aboardluxury trains

(FIRST INFORMATION REPORT)

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Fortune Park Hotels Ltd, a whollyowned subsidiary of ITC Ltd, hasrecently announced the opening ofits 33rd property, Fortune ParkLakeCity in Thane, a satellite town

of Mumbai city and increasingly becoming ahub of economic activity. Fortune ParkLakeCity is the first branded business hotelof the Thane district. Fortune Park LakeCity,Thane, is owned by Dr Ajay Thakker, Chair-man and CEO of Jupiter LifeLine HospitalsLtd. The hotel has 58 rooms with 24 Stan-dard Rooms, 16 Fortune Club Rooms and 15Suites. Fortune Park LakeCity offers state-of-the-art banquet and conference halls whichcan accommodate between 8 to 300 guests.This contemporary first class business hotelcarefully blends present-day style, comfortand state-of-art facilities to provide premiumaccommodation to visitors. Strategicallylocated on the Eastern Express Highway, just30 km from Chhatrapati Shivaji Internation-al Airport and 26 km from the Domestic Air-port, the hotel is well connected to the busi-ness hubs in Mumbai. Its close proximity tobusiness and industrial centres likeWaghle/Kolshet, Bhiwandi, Airoli, Kalwa,

Vikhroli, MIDC and SEEPZ, Navi Mumbaiand Mumbai itself, makes it the most desir-able and sought after location for numerousmultinationals and large corporate houses.

Meanwhile, in another development,Fortune Park Hotels Ltd has alsoannounced the flagging of its 34th property,Fortune Inn Haveli in the capital city ofGujarat - Gandhinagar. The hotel is just a20 minute drive from Airport and Ahmed-abad City and 3 km from Railway Station.The property offers a selection of 84 roomsincluding 56 Standard Rooms, 14 Fortune

Club Rooms and 14 Suites. All rooms com-bine contemporary elements with elegantdesign and are equipped with a completerange of modern amenities. Other offeringsat Fortune Inn Haveli, Gandhinagar include'Earthen Oven'-the north Indian specialityrestaurant, a business centre, gymnasiumand sauna. The hotel also offers conferenceand banquet facilities to accommodate 800people. A swimming pool and Fortune Deliwill be added shortly. Fortune Inn Haveli isowned by Major Vinod Joshi, Chairman andManaging Director of Gandhinagar HotelsLimited. This splendid property now donsthe Fortune banner, in its 'Inn' category.Fortune Inn Haveli is an upscale hotel situ-ated right opposite the Secretariat in thecommercial and shopping hub at Sector 11 -the heart of the city. Due to the perfecttown planning and natural beautification,Gandhinagar is also known as the GreenestCapital City of Asia.

With the launch of this hotel, the totalnumber of Fortune Inn category hotels inthe country now stands at six with Jammu,Pune, Visakhapatnam, Noida and Manipalhotels already operational.

SPECIAL FOCUS

Fortune hotels’ two newproperties

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(ABOVE): STEVEN KALCZYNSKI,GENERAL MANAGER, THEOBEROI, MUMBAI, IS EXCITEDAND CONFIDENT THAT THEREOPENED PROPERTY, WITH ITSNEW LOOK AND EXCELLENTDEDICATED SERVICE WILL HAVEMANY PATRONS. (LEFT): THEREFURBISHED LOBBY OF THEOBEROI, MUMBAI


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THE EMPLOYEES

During the final phases, the employees have workedso hard to put this hotel together. I know fromwhere they come and where they are living. It takesan hour and a half for them to reach here in themorning and they leave very late. The two monthsthat I have been here, the efforts that I have seenfrom all the employees have been tremendous. Theyare very hard workers and very passionate, verycaring and I think that they are just as excited as theguests that the hotel is reopening. I would say thatthat was the biggest thing.

THE REGULARS

Around three weeks back, I sent out an email blast toall our customers around the world, to let them knowthat the hotel will reopen on April 24, and there wasan outpour of emails back from the guests saying thatthey are so happy and their hearts have been with usthrough this entire period and we have their supportin coming back to stay with us in Mumbai. It justshows that these hideous acts would not preventpeople from coming back. That is probably the biggestthing apart from the fact that we are bridging into thefuture. And we cannot let those things stop us.

AN UNFORGETTABLE MOMENT

Well because we have not been open, a lot of what Ihave done in the last couple of weeks have beengiving little private tours of the rooms and theproperties to the guests and also to a lot of touroperators who had come from the UK and the US. Ithas been very nice to hear the reaction from thosewho have been here in the past and have seen thenew architectural layout and the design. Theirresponses have been tremendous. I took one tour inthe evening and there was such a calming effect. Itwas such a bright, contemporary and colourful lobbyversus the past. So, it was nice to get that kind ofimmediate feedback.

THE LEAD UP TO THE OPENING

I think just reading in the newspapers has beenexciting. To watch some of the main stories leading upto the reopening has been great. I think that Mumbaiis excited as well because our reopening is a testamentto the spirit of the city. And this is the reaction that Igot from the people on the street as well.

MEMORIES OF THE STAFF YOU LOST

One of the main reasons why we did not have a grandopening was exactly that. We wanted to respect thepast while also launch into the future. I think the staffsuffered a lot emotionally during the last year but ashuman beings are resilient, they always come aroundand the fact that we are reopening now means most tothe staff than anything else. Those who have sufferedhave been very supportive in a lot ways and that stillexists. But I think overall, they are just very happythat we are opening up again.

(PHOTOS BY PRADEEP CHANDRA)

Burying the past and moving ahead iswhat life is all about… While we will never forget the gorydetails of 26/11 in Mumbai, thereopening of the Oberoi Hotel is thetestament to the spirit of the peopleof Mumbai...

Movingon...


Country Inn & Suites By Carlson

Mussoorie

country 1.qxd 4/30/2010 2:34 PM Page 1

Country Inn & Suites By Carlson Mussoorie

Convent Road, Library

Mussoorie 248179

Tel : 91 135 2631001

Email :

Website :

India Toll Free : 1800 1800 456

[email protected]

www.countryinns.com/india

"Coming Soon in Summer 2010"

Avenues

Mosaic : all day dining coffee

shop cum bar

Revive Spa & Fitness Centre

In house guest library

Kids play zone

Ballroom with capacity of

approx 300 people

50 rooms & suites (all mall facing)


Mussoorie


Convent Road, Library

248179

Email : [email protected]

Website : www.countryinns.com/india

India Toll Free : 1800 1800 456

Mussoorie

Tel : 91 11 43221904

"Coming Soon in Summer 2010"

�

�

�

�

�

�

50 Rooms & Suites

Mosaic : 24 Hours Coffee Shop

Revive : Spa & Fitness Centre

In House Guest Library

Kids Play Zone

Banquet & Conferencing

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COVER STORY24

It’s chutti timeIronic as it may sound, many a times; a vacation, especially in

summer, gets so strenuous that you feel like going to anotherone as soon as you are back from the first!

Reason — the overcrowded destination. So, this summer, enjoy the chutti at a lesser known locale...

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SUSHEELA NAIR

From the sweltering heat ofPalakkad town it was apleasant climb to the lesserfrequented hill station ofNelliyampathy in the Sahya

Range. The enchantment of the excursionto this virgin hill station starts at thepicturesque Pothundi Dam, about anhour's drive from Palakkad via Nemmara.En route we tarried awhile at the Pothundireservoir. I could gaze in the distance thePothundi Reservoir gleaming like asapphire set amidst the green canopy of theforests.

As our jeep cleaved through hair-pinbends, past estates and cascading waterfallsthat line the hillsides, we were greeted bythe magnificent vistas and the fresh air ofthis virtually untouched locale. Drivingthrough dense evergreen forests, I stoppedat every bend to capture pictures of thevarying shades of greenery and thesparkling waterfalls hurtling down thehillsides. We had splendid view of thePalakkad Gap, a geographical phenomenonin the Western Ghats formation in thisregion, bringing into view, parts of theadjoining State of Tamil Nadu.

As we moved higher, hills swathedwith plantations of tea, coffee, aromaticcardamom groves and pockets ofgooseberry trees loomed into view. Pepperinterspersed with rows of ubiquitous silveroaks and luscious oranges hanging fromorchards added varying hues to the

landscape. Situated south of the PalakkadGap, and adjoining the popular wildlifesanctuaries of Parambikulam, Anamalai andthe Peechi Vazhani, Nelliyampathy isluxuriant with flora and fauna and acorridor for wild animal movement. Thereare some pockets of nelli (gooseberry) thatis said to have given Nelliyampathy itsname. Another version attributes the nameto the Kadar tribes who had a hamlet or'pothi' near Nellikolam. HenceNelliampothi in due course of time becameNelliyampathy.

In days of yore, Nelliyampathy's claimto fame was its luscious oranges. Now thefame of this enchanting hill station rests onthe aroma of coffee, cardamom and thetardy plant that has bequeathed to theKeralite his much-loved cup of ‘chaiya’(tea). Right from the early 40s,Nelliyampathy was known for its lusciousoranges grown at the Agricultural ResearchStation. These fruits were carted to feedthe British troops during the World War II.They were so popular that box loads ofthese fruits were also sent in those days tothe queen of England .

Funnily, Nelliyampathy does not havethe clichéd 'hill station' stamp. Nestled at aheight of 4600 ft above sea level in theSahya Range, it is distinctly different fromothers of its ilk. Walking the roads of thisquaint hill resort, I found the tranquility ofthis place overwhelming. I watched womenpluck away at the two leaves and a bud,working quietly in the serenity of thoseverdant slopes. Walking on, I couldn't help

but marvel at the tea bushes — they are allover and form the dominant green belt inNelliyampathy.

Nelliyampathy is not as celebrated asMunnar. But it has an untouched charmabout it unlike Munnar which seems to beover run with tourists. The best way todiscover this locale is to take a casual strollor drive out to the myriad vantage points.One can also take a look at examples of biofarming in the many private plantationsaround this place.

Nelliyampathy’s many hillocks andmounds are perfect for trekking. If you areadventurous, set out on these lessertrodden routes to savour some pristinewilderness not normally seen on the touristitinerary. If one is lucky, one is sure to spotendangered animals like the Nilgiri Tahrsand the lion tailed macaques en route. Iembarked on a birdwatching spree andspotted an extensive variety of birds in theabandoned estates and the scenic environsof Nelliyampathy. The twitters,orchestrated by myriads of birds are a treatto the ears. But what makes it so special isthe mellifluous song of the MalabarWhistling Thrush or the whistlingschooling boy pervading the air.

On reaching our destination, we wereushered into our cottage ensconced in alush green coffee estate. The mountain airwhetted my appetite. After a heartybreakfast of aappams and stew, washeddown with a cup of frothy, filter coffee, weset out on a long walk to savour a slice ofplantation life. The landscape was a

(LEFT) COFFEE PLANTATION AND (RIGHT) TEA PLANTATION AT NELLIYAMPATHY

Nelliyampathy—The road less travelled


26

plethora of varying green-lush plantationsflaunting acres of coffee leaves entwinedwith pepper vines, cardamom plants… Themanager explained the intricacies of

planting, sifting, sorting, curing and thenuances of the different varieties of coffeesuch as Robusta and Arabica. We also sawthe old cardamom curing centre where thecardamom used to be dried, separated,graded and packed.

At dusk, the twittering of birds andchirping of crickets punctuated ourconversation while we enjoyed freshlybrewed tea. Later, our jeep movedsmoothly out of the resort, clearing into thelittle woods in the estate, armed only with apowerful search light to spot wild animals.We saw wild boars and spotted deerscurrying away at our approach and a herdof gaurs vanishing into the dense foliage,annoyed at our invasion into their terrain.But our encounter with the bold and thebeautiful were cut short by fiercelightening coupled with deafening thunderand torrential rain.

The next morning we went boating inthe only lake in Nelliyampathy. Set againstthe background of tea plantations on hillslopes, it presents a picture postcard viewwith lotus flowers in bloom. The hillsaround Nelliyampathy are alive andbustling with picnic possibilities.

Exploring another option, we venturedto Sitarkundu at Karuna plantations. Sitaand Lakshman are believed to have stayedhere during the Vanavasa. It is said that

Sita Devi took bath at the waterfalls here. Atall gnarled tree here is one of the majorattractions. The drives out ofNelliyampathy are interesting especiallythe one leading to Sitarkundu offering afantastic view of the plains as far as evenPalakkad town and the surroundingcountryside.

We ended our trip with a visit toMampara, a knoll from where we had astupendous view of the entire PalakkadRange. After a two-hour journey in a semi-open four wheel drive, through atreacherous terrain, we reached Mampara.The rickety jeep drive beyond an estatewas unnerving and twisted up my insides.We discovered the clouds literally floatingaround like bits of cotton wool. Braving thechill and the ferocity of the wind, I waitedpatiently for two hours for the mist to clearand click. As it cleared, we had incredibleviews of enchanting dales, verdant slopes,thick forest and a patchwork of lush paddyfields. Major parts of Palakkad, the dams ofMalampuzha, Chulliyar, Meenkara,Mulathara and Walayar and parts ofParambikulam, Pollachi, Coimbatore andMettupalayam in Tamil Nadu were alsovisible. Descending the quaint hill station,we realised that Nelliyampathy was God’sgift to the Palakkad, the granary of Kerala.

(PHOTOS BY SUSHEELA NAIR)

POTHUNDY RESERVOIR GLISTENING IN THE DISTANCE

GETTING THERE:BY AIR: Nearest airport is in Coimbat-ore (140km away from the Nelliyampa-thy). Nearly 40 regular flights are avail-able from Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru andMumbai to Coimbatore and from southcities, including Chennai, Bengaluru andHyderabad. Tourist taxi from airport toNelliyampathy costs about Rs 3,000.BY RAIL: Palakkad, at a distance ofabout 75km from Nelliyampathy, is thenearest railway station. One can take ataxi to reach Nelliyampathy, costingabout Rs 1500.BY ROAD: Tourist buses as well as stateowned buses provide services on regularintervals from cities like Trichur, Kot-tayam, Kozhikode, Guruvayoor, Cochinand Trivandrum. WHERE TO STAY:Tropical Hill ResortsTel: 04923-246236ITL Holidays & ResortsTel: 04923-246 464/65Ciscilia HeritageTel: 04923-206283, 094470 33560

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TANUSHREE PODDER

It was a wonderful spring morningwhen, a hearty breakfast later, Ibegan the journey from Haridwarto Lansdowne by road, a small hillstation that I had short listed (the

criteria of peace and quiet positioned atthe pinnacle of my requirement) to beatthe heat last summers.

Believing that there is no better wayto know the place than by travelling by alocal transport while interacting with thelocals, I boarded the state transport busthat had seen better days. It started witha groan and a protest thereafterstruggling valiantly to negotiate the steepbends of the road. Despite its shabbyappearance, it eventually picked upspeed and sped past lush green forests,

small hamlets and fields. It took us abouttwo hours to reach Kotdwar, a smallbustling town, the last railhead on thisroute — the hills spring up from here.

It was here that one changed over toa smaller vehicle to go up the hills. Therates are fixed and the umpteen TataSumos won't budge until they have 10passengers. As the driver waited for thelast two passengers, I reached the end of

COVER STORY

LansdowneA cocoon of natural beauty

GREEN VALLEYS OF LANSDOWNE FORM A PICTURESQUE VIEW


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my patience. It was only after I offered topay the balance that the driver pressedthe accelerator and we shot off for thehills.

A full hour and a quarter of dizzydrive later, my legs wobbling, I climbedout from the vehicle bang in front of thebazaar. All my exhaustion vanishedinstantly as I eyed the verdant expanselooming beyond the shabby andnondescript bazaar with its usual array ofshops that sold everything from blanketsto buckets and bread.

It took me a great deal ofdetermination to climb up to the GarhwalMandal Vikas Nigam Rest House,standing at an altitude of 1,950m. Therambling structure, dating back to 1888,had once housed the Gorkha Mess beforeit became an ill-maintained guest house.My room proved to be damp and not-so-clean. Luckily, I had no intention ofstaying indoors save for sleeping on therather uncomfortable, cold bed inside ahuge room. Dumping my lone travellingbag in the room, I ambled across to theTiffin Top, which is just across theHeritage House. Till date, I do not knowthe actual name of the peak — at placesit was mentioned as Tip N Top. Well!What's in a name? I mused, since theplace offered a magnificent view of theHimalayas. It is another matter that athick blanket of mist obscured the snow-clad peaks from my view.

Not willing to rest my tired limbs, Icontinued downhill towards Bhulla Tal, arainwater harvested lake with boatingfacilities. It turned out to a delightfulplace with swans and teals paddling lazilyaround. A sprinkling of gazebos andbenches completed the picture.

A sense of lethargy took over as thewarmth of sun created a languorousenvironment. Reluctantly, my calvesprotesting, I began walking uphill. Thistime, I noticed the quaint, colonialbungalows perched on breathtaking viewpoints. The British definitely knew howto make the best of all situations. Beatenpaths with direction boards likebungalow number 2, 3 and names likeBurton's, Kenny's, and Warren led to thebungalows surrounded by spaciousgardens ablaze with flowers. They weretypically colonial structures with slopingred corrugated roof, green paintedwooden pillars and roomy verandasrunning all around along with highceilings, chimneys, and grates. Nothinghas changed in the last six odd decadesexcept perhaps the people living in thesehouses.

Lansdowne is dominated by thecantonment which is perhaps the reasonof its being. My curiosity led me to thebeautifully maintained Garhwal Rifles'campus. Time seemed to stop as Istepped into the ancient structure thathoused the officers' mess. Its

overwhelming view of the snow-cappedHimalayan ranges and the goldmine of alibrary that housed leather-bound, goldlettered rare books preserved from the1800s, took me to another world, anotherera. Biographies and travel books, theirpages yellowed with age, donated byBritish officers felt like heirloom in myhands. Albums with black and whitephotos, priceless documents of thebygone days, transported me to theLansdowne of yore.

Inside the mess was an invaluablecollection of food chafers, silver winedecanters, fireplace in black solid woodwith ornamental sculpting along withbrass pokers, wood panelled walls, tiledfloor, medals, guns captured fromGermans, Turkish at Mesopotamia during1915. That the British hunted withoutqualm was evident in the trophiesdisplayed on the walls. Dozens of lifelesseyes of tigers, bisons, ibex, chital andleopards stared at me from all cornersalong with pictures of the hunters posingproudly with their guns. There were acouple of hollowed elephant feet, withclaws intact, modified into wastepaperbaskets.

The ubiquitous Sadar Bazaar with itstiny shops was a hub of activity as peoplethronged the main road and the two tinystreets. The entire area could not havebeen more than a quarter of a kilometreyet it seemed as if everyone was

BHULLA LAKE ENTRANCE GARHWAL OFFICERS’ MESS

THE BHULLA TAL ST JOHN’S CHURCH


30

A SLICE OF PARADISE

converging there. The funny soundingTipsy Restaurant with its modest menuwas teeming with people and I joinedthe crowd for a cup of steaming tea and aplate of hot pakoras. Despite the name,there were neither tipsy customers norhard drinks visible at the restaurant.

A visit to the museum maintained bythe Garhwal Rifles was next on myitinerary. Just next door was a view pointfrom where I caught the extraordinarysight of a setting sun. The fact that I wasthe only human being at the sunset pointmade the experience more significant.Sated with the experience, I begantrudging back to my lodgings. Oncethere, I feasted on the simple fare of riceand chicken curry concocted by the lonecaretaker who shared the fare with me.Reluctant to hit the sack at 8 in theevening, I sat out under the clear skydazzling with innumerable stars andabsorbed the beauty and stillness allaround me. Lulled by the setting, Islipped into deep slumber of the kind Ihad never experienced even before myhead hit the pillow. It had been a longbut rewarding day.

The next morning, I made my way tothe old St Mary’s Church which wasconstructed in 1887 through privatecollections started by one Mrs Rundall,

the wife of Captain FM Rundall. A tinyreading room maintained by the GarhwalRifles now lies where the British soldiersonce prayed. The functional St John’sChurch stands a few turns down theroad.

At night as I stepped out of my room,the heady scent of jasmines flooded mynostrils, filling me with joy. There is notmuch of sightseeing to do at the tiny hillstation but it is a place that haunts youmuch after you have returned to thevagaries of city life. It is a place thatallows you to relax, enjoy nature’sbounties and recoup.

The melodious chirping of the birdswoke me up to a glorious sunlit morning.Feeling totally rejuvenated, I packed mybelongings and made my way to theSadar Bazaar from where I clamberedinto another Sumo to get back to thedrudgery of rat race. But before I beganmy journey, I threw one last look aroundme. Thankfully there were no internetparlours, video games, coffee shops,shopping experience and pushy guidesaround. All I carried back with me wasimages of the oak woods and blue pineforests, magnificent views of snowcovered peaks, and lungs full of ozonerich air.

(PHOTOS BY TANUSHREE PODDER)

GETTING THERE:BY AIR: Nearest airport is JollyGrant in Dehradun (100km awayfrom Lansdowne). About 22flights fly from Delhi, Kolkata,Bengaluru and Mumbai. Taxiservices are available from airportto Lansdowne, costing about Rs 2,000.BY RAIL: Nearest railway stationis Kotdwar (nearly 40km awayfrom Lansdowne). Taxi servicesare available from Kotdwar toLansdowne, costing about Rs 750.BY ROAD: Private and publicbuses offer services fromLansdowne to Kotdwar in regularintervals. Kotdwar is connected toDelhi by tourist deluxe buses.Lansdowne is also connected toHaridwar, Dehradun andMussoorie by road. WHERE TO STAY:Fairy Dale Heritage ResortTel: 01386-262599/ 09412081837Blue Pine ResortTel: 9968408984GMVN Rest HouseTel: 01386-262509

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COVER STORY

DiskitThe golden sands of Kashmir

THE WIDE EXPANSE OF GOLDEN SANDS OF KASHMIR


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S ARORA

What comes to mind whenwe say desert?Rajasthan? Heat? That'swhat even we thought,until we decided to beat

the heat for a refreshing change andthus landed at a travel destination,which is a cool desert set amidstmountains. Surprised? We were too.And would you believe if we tell youthis place is in India?

How we landed in this small littledesert tucked between the villages ofDiskit and Hunder in Nubra Valley ofLadakh, Kashmir, 110km from Leh andat an altitude of about 10,000 ft is amystery. But definitely not a mistake!For those looking for some adventureand an off beat destination, this place isa must-see. It offers a breathtaking view

of sand dunes set beautifully against thesetting sun of the Himalayan range! Thegreyish brown sand glitters as you stepbarefoot and are left completelyspellbound by its beauty. Away from thehustle and bustle of the city,disconnected from the outer world —Diskit is pure natural beauty.

The adventure began with the roadtrip. We travelled from Manali to Leh byroad, so the 6-7 hour drive to Diskit wasnot at all a hassle. The landscape enroute from Diskit to the desert isfantastic. The scenery changes every fiveminutes, and while the snow-cladmountains accompany you throughout,large fields, the happily flowing ShyokRiver, grazing horses, and smiling Lamasholds your attention on the way. If youhave already been to monasteries at Leh,the Diskit monastery will not impressyou much, but the local people there will

certainly do. Always smiling, the Lamasare a delight to meet and speak to. Theirimmense knowledge and passion towardsBuddha is infectious.

Diskit Village is known for its apricotplantations. Dotted with guest housesand budget hotels, this quaint littlevillage is a major halt for tourists. Westayed at a guest house called SandDune which also offered tents where youcan expect a couple of more insectsbesides yourself to accompany you inyour sleep. But the guest house iscertainly a great bet with small but cleanrooms, a tiny verandah for bonfire in thenight and decent service. However, ifyou really want to get a real flavour ofthe place, stay with one of the severalfamilies who rent out rooms to tourists.These are by far the best places to stayand you can treat yourself with delicioushome cooked food too.

A RIDE ON BACTRIAN DOUBLE HUMP CAMEL IS A MUST DO IN DISKIT. THE TRANQUIL ENVIRONS OF THIS QUAINTDESERT OFFER A PERFECT SOLACE FOR ITS VISITORS


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Diskit being located close to thesnow clad Khardong village near theKhardon la pass — the highestmotorable road in India — has lots oflocals from the valley, who shift theirbase to this place during winters.Besides, being the headquarters of theNubra Valley it has many governmentoffices with basic facilities. One is notreally spoilt for choices in the village,yet there are some things that a touristshould definitely not miss.

Toping the list are the Bactriancamels! A ride on Bactrian double humpcamels is totally recommended andthough you will have to shell out Rs 200-500 for a small joy ride, it's anexperience you will cherish for a longtime.

Next on the agenda is the Diskitmonastery. The 350-year old Diskitmonastery is situated on the hill, justabove the flood plains of the ShayokRiver. Built at the edge of the approachroad, the approach to the monastery isthrough a flight of steps made of stonesthat lead to the prayer hall of themonastery. A statue of Maitreya Buddhais enshrined in the hall and there is ahuge drum located within the hall. In

the chamber on the second floor, thereare many images of fierce guardiandeities. The monastery houses about 100monks and runs a school in its precincts.

Desmochhey or Dosmoche, alsoknown as "Festival of the Scapegoat” isthe popular prayer festival that iscelebrated at Diskit Monastery. Thefestival is celebrated in February duringthe winter season, when the Khardunglais not accessible, and a lot of people takerefuge in the village. The highlight ofthe festival is the mask dance,performed by the Lamas of theMonastery to dramatically express thesuperiority of good over the evil forces.On this occasion, images made of doughare thrown out to deter any disasteroccurring and to usher peace andprosperity to the people. The clothescovering the heads of deity statues areremoved in this period.

Diskit might not be a happeningplace with lots of buzz around, but itsure offers solace to people who want toescape the cacophony of life and aretired of the greens and waterfalls thatusually attract huge crowds duringsummers.

(PHOTOS BY S ARORA)

FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR SOME ADVENTURE IN AN OFF BEAT DESTINATION, THIS PLACE IS A MUST ‘SEE’

GETTING THERE:BY AIR: Leh is the closest airport toreach Diskit and Hundur in theNubra valley. Direct flights link Lehto Delhi, Chandigarh, Srinagar andJammu. From Leh, one has to pro-ceed to Diskit (150km away) byroad.BY ROAD: Leh can be reached byroad between June to Octoberthrough the Srinagar-Leh route andManali-Leh route. Buses from Lehrun to Diskit on Tuesday, Thursday,Friday & Sunday and take around sixhours to reach. You are also advisedto book your return ticket for nextday the moment you reach Diskitotherwise, it is little doubtful thatyou will get a seat next day. WHERE TO STAY:Accommodation in Diskit is simple,but ample. Near the Mani Wall, peo-ple can get guest house accommoda-tion or can get rooms atOlthang Guest House, Diskit,Nubra ValleySand Dunes Guest House, Diskit

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Having toured northern andeastern Sikkim extensively inthe past, I decided to visitPelling in western Sikkim onthe insistence of my friend

Radhika, who is also a travel aficionado. So,one fine morning, there we were, at NewJalpaiguri Station, ready for the next leg ofthe journey on a sparkling new Pulsar that

belonged to a local friend. The ride wassmooth and seven hours and numerous pitstops later, a well appointed signsurrounded by fluttering prayer flagsannounced our arrival at Pelling. We drovestraight into the beautiful driveway of theElgin — Mount Pandim heritage hotel andwere treated to some cherry brandy in itsluxurious lobby. The rooms we wereushered into were at once both elegant andexpansive. They possessed an air of

serenity about them that is reflective of thepeaceful environs and rich Sikkimeseculture.

“Pelling has one of the richesttraditions in Sikkim,” were the words of themanager of Pandim as she took us on aguided tour of the heritage property. Aftermaking a mental note of the places to see inand around Pelling and gulping down a cupof tea, we walked out to the legendaryPemayangtse monastery, believed to be the

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PellingLet serenity take over

(A) A LOCAL WOMAN WORKING ON YAK WOOL (B) A RED PANDA BASKS IN THE FOREST AROUND KHACHOEDPALRI LAKE(C) YOUNG MONKS AT A MONASTERY IN PELLING (D) THE SUSPENDED SINGSHORE BRIDGE

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oldest monastery in Sikkim. Built in 1705by Lhatsun Chempo (one of the Lamaswho performed the consecration ceremonyof the first Chogyal) under the watchful eyeof Mt Kanchenjunga, the monastery hasbeen the centre of all religious activities forthe monarchs. This monastery is the maincentre of the Nyingamapa sect, essentiallya tantrik sect established in the early eighthcentury. We spotted many frescoes aroundthe monastery depicting tantrik Buddhistthemes. But it was a giganticrepresentation of Buddhist heaven — orsangthopalri in wood which occupied anentire chamber on the second that took ourbreaths away. The sculpture is believed tobe the handiwork of a single monk who

spent half his life on the marvel.Just as we were leaving Pemayangtse,

the monastery started resonating withBuddhist chants and we couldn't but helpsit on a nearby bench to soak in somedivinity. It started getting dark and we sawsome young monks setting up butter lampsin the complex. The soft glow of the butterlamps made the place look even moremystic and we returned to Mount Pandimwith a strange sense of peace.

Since I had promised Radhika that wewould drive to the Cheese factory atDantem, I knew there would be no way outof it. I woke up with a sigh and wasdumbstruck at the sight that welcomed mewhen I drew open the curtains. Right in

front of me was the mighty Kanchenjungawith all its five treasures shining brightly!The view was awe inspiring andunexpected as it had been too cloudy to seeanything since we had come. I pulled outthe camera and rushed to the terracedgarden to set up the tripod. After that, Iconfess, I lost track of time. After Radhikareminded me of our trip to Dantem, wetucked in a quick breakfast before headingout to Dantem 20km away. Dantem isfamous for two things. The first is its alpinecheese factory where Radhika filled up herbag with 10 pounds of cheese. That poundof cheese vanished even before we reachedthe nearby Singshore Bridge, which is thesecond thing Dantem is famous for.

Our next foray in Pelling was to thefamous Rabdentse ruins where we arrivedafter a three km trek through thick bambooand pine forest. The trek was steep in partsbut was made easier by stone pavedpathways and encouraging sign boards like,“Fatigued? Ancient Ruins just 500mahead!” It was interesting to learn that,Rabdentse became the capital of Sikkim

when Tenshung Namgyal, the secondChogyal of Sikkim shifted his capital herefrom Yoksum in the 17th century.

As we arrived at the spur on which thepalace and monastic complex of Rabdentsewas situated, we were pleasantly surprisedto see that the ruins were well preserved.For once, I was all praises for the efforts ofthe Archaeological Survey of India. Weclambered to the top of the ruins whichmight have been the monarch's chamberwhere we were treated to picturesqueviews of the surrounding valley and theKanchenjunga.

Most of the evening was spentshopping for souvenirs in the market andthe rest at Pandim playing ludo and chess

by the fireplace in the lobby and enjoyingSikkimese cuisine. The following morningsaw us at Khachoedpalri Lake.Khachoedpalri, which means 'mountain ofblissful heaven', was exactly that. NativeBuddhists believe that the lake which isencircled by a thick forest, is in the shapeof a footprint of goddess Tara. The fact thatwe were at a revered spot was madeapparent by the fact that many devoteeswere doing pooja on the banks of the lake.

As we went for a short trek around thelake we were delighted to spot a red pandabasking on the top of a tree munchingmerrily away on the lush bamboo leavescompletely oblivious of anything aroundhim. I managed to get some striking posesof the red cuddly bear on film beforeheading back to Pelling.

The last hour at Pelling was spent inthe garden of Pandim over lunch with tuftsof clouds billowing over the Kanchenjungain the distance. Everything was quiet andserene. Just perfect or 'Pelling Perfect!' toput it the way I felt.

(PHOTOS BY GAURAV SCHIMAR)

GETTING THERE:BY AIR: Nearest airport isBagdogra (154km away fromPelling). Close to 22 flights areavailable from Delhi, Kolkata,Bengaluru and Mumbai toBagdogra. From Bagdogra, onecan hire private taxi or jeep forPelling.BY RAIL: Nearest railway stationto Pelling is in Jalpaiguri at adistance of approximately 187km.From there, private taxis, busesand jeeps are available for Pelling.BY ROAD: Regular tourist buses,private jeeps and taxis connectPelling with (145km) Gangtok,Siliguri (133km), Darjeeling(74km) and Kalimpong (90km). WHERE TO STAY:Elgin Mount PandimTel: 03595-250756/273/353Hotel SamtenlingTel: 03595-258297

THE LUSH GARDENS OF ELGIN MOUNT PANDIM HOTEL TREKKERS MAKE THEIR WAY IN THE SNOW OF SINGALILA


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As our vehicle plodded up theGhat Road from Ponneri toYelagiri, negotiating sharp,meandering U-turns and 14hairpin bends, new vistas of

the jungles and valleys unfolded beforeus. It was a pleasant drive through thesemi evergreen forests interspersed withtowering eucalyptus trees. Strangely, allthe hairpin bends are named afterreputed Tamil poets and personalities.En route we tarried awhile to soak in thepristine beauty of the luxuriant foliage,taking deep breaths of the crisp, clean,morning air. The hill slopes werecarpeted with the vibrant floweringlantanas. The Gulmohars — redder andbrighter than the ones in the city — wereablaze, setting the azure sky on fire. Wealso sighted several inverted D-shapedbee hives, overhanging precariously fromthe branches of the trees.

Driving through verdant foliage, wefelt rejuvenated breathing in theinvigorating air. As we stopped at theseventh bend to catch a glimpse of thescenic wonders, the morning mistunveiled an array of bucolic delights inthe valley — a cluster of hamlets andfields of yellow-green paddy. Coconutplantations and vegetable farms added tothe scenery. As we passed a semievergreen stretch, there was adiscernible drop in temperature and wecould sense the quietude of the hillstation. When we reached the BSNLtower, we realised that we were in closeproximity to the small township.

Sprawling over an area of 72 sq km,at an altitude of 3,500 feet in the EasternGhats, Yelagiri is sandwiched betweenVaniyambadi and Tirupattur towns inNorth Arcot district. The erstwhileproperty of the Yelagiri Zamindar familywas taken over by the Government ofIndia during the early 1950s. One can

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Yelagiri —Unexploredhaven oftranquility

BOATING IN PUNGANUR LAKE CAN BE AN ENCHANTING EXPERIENCE


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see still the ancestral house of theYelagiri Zamindars in Reddiyur in theplains. Yelagiri exudes a more desi charmthan the usual colonial-style hill stations.It is minus colonial mansions and vantagepoints named after erstwhile Britishrulers and soldiers. It was a watering holeof the wealthy leather merchants fromVaniyampadi. Currently, Chennaites andBangaloreans head to this popularweekend getaway to escape from thesweltering summer heat.

The best way to enjoy one's stay atYelagiri is to allow its tranquil environsset the pace for you. We chose to potteraround, starting with the Punganur Lake.We clambered up the machan (platform)atop a massive tree to have a bird's eye ofthe view of the lake and its environs.There's the garden around the lake, andan artificial fountain at the centre of thelake spouting water upto a height of 15ft.The fountain is illuminated at nights withcolourful lighting arrangements. We tooka stroll around the circular walkwayaround the artificial lake. Not inclined fora boat ride, we simply relaxed by thewater's edge watching the ripples in thelake.

The hill retreat of Yelagiri has acluster of 14 hamlets. Surrounded bymiles and miles of ripened paddy andmustard fields heightened by the brillianthues of their yellow flowers, Yelagiri is aback-to-nature destination parexcellence. We strolled around thevillages like Athanavur, Nilavoor andKothayoor and savoured a slice of theheart of rustic Tamil Nadu. We had apeek into their pastoral lifestyle. Themud walled, thatched roof dwellings andgranaries of farmers contrasteddramatically with the vernalsurroundings. We saw villagers escortingcattle langurously on green pastures, andheard the bleating of goats afar, all in thebackdrop of the hills. While amblingaround the countryside, en route wecame across some Malai-Allees,(presumed to be the descendants of afleeing warrior clan during the regime ofTippu Sultan) returning home with loadsof firewood and their cattle.

We headed to Nilavur village knownfor its lake and an Amman Temple whichcomes alive on Fridays when villagerscongregate here for a special pooja. Abrightly coloured idol just by the side ofthe lake grabbed my attention. Theseguardian deities, found only in TamilNadu, are worshipped as protectors ofvillagers and are often known asAiyanars. While basking under the shade


of a sprawling banyan tree, the only soundthat interrupted the tranquility was thetinkle of cowbells and the chirping of birds.The hilltop Velavan Temple dedicated toLord Murugan, flanked by a gigantic statueof Gadothgajan in front is anotherinteresting place of worship in Yelagiri.Incidentally, the temple is also a perfectviewing point. The Government Silk Farmhere is worth a visit.

If you have a penchant for adventure,you can scale many peaks, explore junglepaths and birding trails, attempt some easytreks and scramble over boulders and rocks.Our guide informed us of the various treks.There are two main trekking routes — onefrom Athanavur to Swamimalai Hills(4338ft) which is just two km, the otherfrom Athanavur to Jalagamparai waterfallsmakes for more adventurous trek.Adventure enthusiasts embark these lessertrodden routes to savour some pristinewilderness not normally seen on the touristitinerary. The Attaru River flows throughYelagiri Hills and hurtles down asJalagamparai waterfalls. The falls are attheir best post monsoon. Close to the falls is

a Murugan temple located within a buildingconstructed in the shape of a Lingam.

The trek to Swami Malai, the highestpeak, soaring to 1128ft from Mangalamhamlet passing through dense vegetation isardous. However, it is worth the effort forthe stunning views. Trekkers normallyembark at the crack of dawn for the trekand return before 9 am, for it can get verysunny and rather uncomfortable. All alongthe way, one can listen to birdsong echoingacross the woods. En route, there are hugeboulders on which one can rest and takedeep breaths of fresh air, when one hasexhausted all stamina and energy. The placeis also ideal for trekking, rappelling or rockclimbing. Once you reach the summit,you’ll find a small cave temple below amassive rock. You can ascend the rock withthe help of a metal ladder. A traditionaltorch is lit atop the rock during KarthikaDeepam and the surrounding hills areaglow with the light. Standing on the rock,you can watch the green blanket of the floracoming into focus when the clouds partmomentarily.

(PHOTOS BY SUSHEELA NAIR)

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(A) YELLOW FLOWERS HERALD A WELCOME (B) MIST CLOAKED HILLS (C)NILAVUR LAKE (D) A THATCHED GRANARY

GETTING THERE:BY AIR: Bengaluru is thenearest airport (145km awayfrom Yelagiri) and is well-connected to major cities ofIndia. Taxis are available andfare is about Rs 3,000 fromBengaluru to Yelagiri. BY RAIL: Jolarpettai is thenearest railhead (about 21kmaway from Yelagiri). Jolarpettaiis a main railway junction. Taxifare is about Rs 450 fromJolarpettai railway station toYelagiri.BY ROAD: Regular bus servicesare available from Tiruoathur(27km), Bengaluru (140km),Chennai (250km), Krishnagiri(40 km )and Vanayambadi(20km). WHERE TO STAY:Hotel HillsTel: 04179-245301/2/3Hotel LandmarkTel: 04179-295411/10M

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Let loose theadventurous youCity populous can generally be classified into couch potatoesand tech potatoes… killing away their time either in front of atelevision or computer screens… But this summer, leave theharmful rays of the coloured screen and soak your eyes in thenatural beauty that abounds in various parts of India. It’s timeto get adventurous and go for that long unexplored trek thatyou have been planning for a long time… a rucksack, acompanion and loads of determination, is all you need…

CAMPING AMIDST UNADUTERATED WILDERNESS OF UTTARAKHAND

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Trek: GarhwalTriyuginarayan to Panwali: Blaze a trail

GAURAV SCHIMAR

“There is no way I cangive you permission togo to Kedarnath thistime of the year!” werethe words of the SDM

at Ukhimath. It was winters and that isexactly why I and Manish were there, toexperience the splendour of Garhwal

Himalayas in winters. But life is all aboutplan A and plan B, especially when in themountains. Thus, we found ourselves atTriyuginarayan, the temple town whereLord Shiva is believed to have solemnisedhis wedding to Parvati.

While we were having a cuppa at adhaba, a short and burly man walked upto us and shot without warning,“Namaskaar saab jee! Are you here for the

trek to Panwali?” and added in the samebreath, “I can take you there!” Now thateven the SDM had made us believe thatit was not advisable to attempt going toPanwali as it gets risky in heavy snow, wewere a bit sceptical. But Rawat, the guide,put our apprehensions to rest and aftertaking us through the brass tacks, went offto fetch his pony and supplies for the trek,as we waited anxiously for his return.

TAKING A BREAK AMIDST SURREAL ENVIRONS OF GARHWAL HIMALAYAS


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A little later, he returned with abrawny pony on which we put about halfour belongings so as not to overburdenthe beast, rest of it, we stuffed in ourrucksacks. Rawat made us follow theponies as he took us down a trip to thememory lane. “In the past, there were noroads and cars and pilgrims used to trekall the way from Gangotri to Kedarnath.The demanding journey that started fromUttarkashi, took one through Lata,Budhakedar, Guttu and Triyuginarayanbefore culminating at Kedarnath. Panwaliwas on the way and was a favoured spotfor many to break journey.” He continuedwith a sigh, “Since roads have been made,everyone just takes a car to go toKedarnath.” I cheered him by telling himthe fact that since not many pilgrims usethis route any more, the ecology of theregion has remained intact and thisblissful haven continues to be a trekkers’paradise. The animated discussion madeus forget about time, till our leader aheadstopped his trot. Rawat eased off hisburden to let him munch on the lushgrass. We had reached Maggu Chatti at9,900ft, where we set up camp on a flatstretch by a brook and retired for the day.

As we started the gentle ascentsouthwards the next day, our lenses hadmuch to shoot as the tree line gave way tothe Himalayan panorama. The Gangotrirange, along with Kedar and Meru wasright in front of us. As we were catchingour breath at the pleasant Kinkhola Khal(Khal means a pass in Garhwali) at 11,200

ft, Rawat forced us to continue walking, aswe had much to cover. Our merry gangwas now passing through a slippery rockypath and the march was now a little morestrenuous, but the sight all around us keptour hearts smiling all along. We crossed afew, partially-snow clad bugyals(meadows), that still had enough grass tofeed the scores of sheep, which thegujjars and their bear like gaddi dogswere watching over. The Himalayanpeaks drifted in and out of view, as didbirds of various hues, even as Manish, anavian fanatic could not recognise many ofthem, Rawat enlightened us with theirlocal names. It was time to call it a day,and we could not help but camp in onesuch bugyal for the night.

Up ahead, we enjoyed walkingthrough even more snow, albeit a littleslippery, in even more surreal environs.After a few hours, we passed a smallnumber of abandoned gujjar hutments,soon after which we came to a hugemeadow, half covered in snow and stillboasting of many wild flowers andmushrooms. Panwalikantha at 13,000ftwas just the way we had imagined it.

I set up the tents as Manish andRawat went about cooking food. As thepony disappeared to find his favouredchow, I also slipped to explore Panwali.Sense of direction and time eluded me asa tiny cliff top allured me to conquer it.The night sky was twinkling with starsand the half winter moon gave all that Ineeded for my camera. Just when I wasclimbing down, a bright shower in the skymade me jump! Meteorites! As I almosttumbled and fell, Rawat came aboutsearching for me and grinned, “Do notworry Saab, come here in August and youcan spend many nights watching theshooting stars from Panwali.”

GETTING THERE:� There are two options to reach

Panwalikantha. Besides Triyuginarayanon the Kedarnath-Rudraprayag road,the other way to start the trek is fromUttarkashi.

� The trek route in Uttarkashi starts fromLata and takes you to Panwalikanthafrom Budhakedar and Guttu.

� If you have time on your hands youshould do the entire stretch.

� The nearest airport to Triyuginarayanis Jolly Grant in Dehradun (283km).

� The nearest railhead is at Rishikesh(215km).

� Regular buses are available fromRishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun.

WHERE TO STAY:� Though you can stay and dine with the

gujjars in their huts on the way, it isbetter to carry camping equipment,stock of rations, and a kerosene stove,as wood gets damp in rains.

� X-treme X-on (M: +91 9456709898;email: [email protected])organises regular treks in the regionround the year.

BEST TIME TO GO:The best time to go on the trek is in themonsoon when the wild flowers are at fullbloom and the brooks gurgling. Wintersprovide stunning imagery and the summersa relief from the heat. August is the besttime to view meteor showers from Panwali.

ESSENTIALS:The gradient at times gets prettydemanding so be sure that you get intoshape before embarking on the trek.Carrying rainproof gear is essential inmonsoon, goes without saying. If you areattempting the trek in winters then heavywoollens and a windproof jacket is must.

BUGYALS OR MEADOWS CONVERT INTO SKI SLOPES IN WINTERS IN GARHWAL

Triyuginarayan is a smalltemple where Lord Shiva isbelieved to have marriedParvati.


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Trek: ZanskarPhey to Ralakung: Flight through yore

In the jet age, where everythingpops out on Google, it’s hearteningto know that there are still somelocales that do not figure on anymap. “When my uncle was a young

man, he ran away from the house anddisappeared in the Zanskar Valley for amonth and came back with tales of avirgin land he had found,” as I heardthese words I almost fell off the bed I wastrying to doze off on. I was with Tashi athis village in Phey, dreaming of openingnew trekking routes this winter andinstantly, my heart knew that this waswhat I was looking for. Now Tashi is ahuge mine of information on Ladakh and

especially on Zanskar, since he comesfrom there.

Later in the evening, apprehendingmy excitement over the ‘Promised Land’,he handed out the backdrop on the placehis uncle had escaped to — Ralakung.The story, as it has been handed downover the ages, was just the right fodder formy wandering spirit. Once a lama by thename Kaptoe came from Tibet to Zanskarand met the king of Zangla. The king wasimpressed by his intelligence and vastknowledge of Buddhism that he kept himas his personal aide in the palace. But asfate would have it, the king got infuriatedwith Kaptoe over some mix-up one day

and threw him off the palace roof. Butfall, Kaptoe did not. He instead flew to aprecipitous, yet beautiful valley. There, atnight, a bright and colourful calf came upto him, nudged his robe and spoke, “Youshall settle here and bring peace andharmony to the region by a good produceof barley and livestock.” Thus, RalakungPhema came into being.

Now, I could not fly to Ralakung, butthe next morning saw me and Tashiembarking on the first leg of the trek fromPhey to Laphyang. We ascended steeplyto Thet la, from where we could seewhitewashed peaks of Zanskar range. Afew hours of walk saw us through snow-

ZANSKAR RIVER CUTS A DEEP AND NARROW GORGE THROUGH THE ZANSKAR RANGE


covered Karatatshey, which converts intogreen pastures in summers. We crossedthe Chomda River, to reach Laphyang bylate noon, where we decided to campalong the burrows of long tailedmarmots. Tashi informed me that thearea was home to the brown bear. Theriver was half frozen but did not detersome of the most colourful birds to lookfor feed.

The next day saw us graduallyascending to Shakldap and I had to stopevery now and then to catch my breath,till we reached Phema La (15,000ft).Tashi took out a bunch of prayer flagswhich he tied at the pass beforedescending through a coiling trail toTakna Phunsum. We stopped there for awhile and plucked some juicy rubraumflowers, which we sucked on to pep upourselves for the last leg of the journeyahead. We walked for the next half anhour through a thick grove of medicinalplants after which we could finally spotthe Ralakung Phema hamlet. When wereached the hamlet, an old wrinkled

woman gave us shelter in her house, whowe later learned, knew Tashi’s uncle!

After digging into tea and breadbutter, offered to us kindly by the oldwoman, we set about exploring the‘Promised Land’. We trekked atop theNagma La where Tashi went about hisbusiness with the telescope and me withmy camera. The views were stunningfrom the pass. Tashi pointed out to thenest Lammergeyer in the distance andinformed me that there was a good chanceof seeing the young ones of the bird in it.

There was much to learn in the fewdays that we were going to spend in thetwin hamlets of Ralakung around theNangma and Phema rivers. We met somereally interesting locals who opened theirhearts and homes to us, which made usreally feel that we were in the ‘PromisedLand’ indeed. Some of the othermembers of the eight odd families atNagma village, ensured to come alongwith us to guide us to the hiddenwonders of the land. We, of course, sawthe legendary house of Kaptoe, existingindeed and well preserved, intact withhis prayer instruments and coppercooking pots. All these keepsakestransported us back to a page in thehistory book. What made it all the moreinteresting was the fact that none of it hasever been documented. But then,Ralakung is the kind of unknown legendsthat Ladakh is made up of.

GETTING THERE:� After reaching Phey in the Zanskar

region, you have to follow the unlaidtrail to Thet La.

� From there, move on to Laphyangand from Laphyang, to RalakungPhema and Ralakung Nagma.

� Leh is the nearest airport to Phey.� The road to Phey is well connected

to Leh.

WHERE TO STAY:� Phey has Homestays as the locals at

Ralakung are kind enough to giveyou shelter. But do carry your ownequipment at all times in the region.

� Ladakh Eco Trips (Tel:9419815906; email:[email protected]) is yourbest bet for getting a trek organisedfor Ralakung.

BEST TIME TO GO:The best time to go is from August toSeptember as the valley is lush. But forthe die-hard adventure enthusiast, anytime is a good time to go.

ESSENTIALS:Ralakung is one of those places which donot figure on any map, thus taking alongan experienced guide on the trek is highlyrecommended.

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TREADING OVER A MAKESHIFT WOODEN BRIDGE EN ROUTE RALAKUNG

The legendary house ofKaptoe is indeed existingand well preserved, alongwith his prayer instrumentsand copper cooking pots.


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Trek: Singalila Rimbik to Sandakphu: On higher grounds

YOUNG GIRLS ENJOY A GAME OF CRICKET AT SUKHIM TREKKERS LODGE AT RIMBIK

The search for the elusive andexotic takes people to far offplaces. In my own quest once,I found myself driving out toRimbik from Darjeeling at the

suggestion of a fellow pahari friend. Ichecked into the trekker’s lodge atRimbik where Shiva Rao, the mosthumble caretaker, enlightened me on the

possibilities of finding the exotic througha trek, originating from Rimbik, goingthrough the Singalila Range and NationalPark to Sandakphu-Phalut. Now I am notthe types to loiter about much whenbetter things are in store higher up anddecided, even before dinner, to start mymountain rambles the next day.

“An easy trek,” had said Shiva Rao.

But a word of caution about hill people —when they say an ‘easy trek’ — it meansyou will be encountering a steep gradientfor sure, as I discovered the first hour ofthe trek the next morning. And what’smore, I came across a bunch of hillwomen busy picking up dead forest woodwho smiled at me while I sat puffing forbreath. Smirking at my incompetence, I


presumed. Anyways, I moved on only tofind myself in thick foliage and a signageoutside a huge bungalow announcing,‘Welcome to Singalila National Park’. Itwas just late morning but I was alreadyhoping to make camp in the forest resthouse. But as the hills would have theirway, there was no caretaker to be foundaround and I had to move on.

As the day progressed, so did the heatof the summer month and that ensuredboth my water bottles were empty withno signs of a refill anywhere. I did cross amuddy lake, but I let go the thought ofdoing a ‘Man Vs Wild’ do and moved on.Dehydration struck soon enough and justwhen I thought I was about to collapse, Iheard a sound ahead. A leopard! I had nochoice now but to face the beast, since Iwas in no position to run for safety. Butthe voice remained fixed and that is whenI finally started moving and came uponthe source of the sound — a little streamflowing down! Phew! I rested for a bit and

after refilling the bottles, crossed over thebridge and arrived at Ramman, where atrekkers hut was a welcome sight indeed,all the more since there stood anattendant smiling through his bidi.

As guided by the caretaker, I had tocover 14km the next day, over six hours.But another word of caution about the hillpeople — an hour in their jargon isequivalent to probably 16 in ours (Ok! Iam exaggerating! At least 12!). But thatdid not matter to me then, as I waswalking, listening to birdsongs in thethick forests that surrounded me. Ipicnicked happily by the furious RammanRiver. However, soon enough, the smilewas wiped off and replaced by a pant asthe trail now was the steepest I hadencountered so far. But the oxygenmakers in the guise of chestnut, fir andbirch, helped me climb (rather trudge) on.Another three hours of ascent finallybrought me to the tri-junction of Sikkim,West-Bengal and Nepal — Phalut, a little

above 10,000ft.Phalut is a corruption of the Lepcha

word Fak-Lut, which means the peeledsummit, which is understandable as thespur is devoid of any trees, but at thesame timemakes for a bewitching sight,due to the high contrast provided by theforest clad ranges below. But I was notaware of all that then, as the setting sunwas casting the most beautiful drama everon the enigmatic Kanchenjunga, right infront of me. I swear, for a minute I didthink I could reach out and touch themighty peaks.

Next day I jaunted through one of themost beautiful stretches of mountainpaths. The silver-fir forest made for somereally incredible imagery. I felt like themightiest general ever, flanked in the leftby the Kanchenjunga peaks and theEverest group on my right! Though theKanchenjuga appeared a little distant atSandakphu than at Phalut, I was merry atthe sights it offered of the four of the fivehighest peaks in the world, including theEverest.

(PHOTOS BY GAURAV SCHIMAR)

Phalut is a corruption of the Lepcha word Fak-Lut, whichmeans the peeled summit, which is understandable as thespur is devoid of any trees.

GETTING THERE:� There are two routes through which

you can do the Sandakphu-Phalut trek.One is to start from Rimbik and go toRamman, Phalut, Sandakphu, Jaubariand end at Maneybhanjyang.

� The other one starts fromManeybhanjyang and ends at Rimbik.

� The nearest railhead is New Jalpaiguri,from where you may have to book acab, as regular buses do not ply on thisroute.

� Bagdogra is the nearest airport.

WHERE TO STAY:� There are a few trekker huts on the

route where you can halt for the night. � At Rimbik, Shiva Rao of Sukhim

Trekkers Lodge (M:+919733235921/9474101440)arranges for organised trekking andcamping in the region.

BEST TIME TO GO:The ideal time to go for the trek is fromOctober to December and April to June.Monsoons can be avoided.

ESSENTIALS:Potable water becomes a problem at timesso ensure you carry ample supply of water.The gradient is mostly steep, thus keeppopping those candies every now and thento keep up the tempo.

48

A LONE LADY TREKKER MAKES HER WAY TO PHALUT

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The journey toTawang

LITTLE KIDS STARE INTO THE DISTANT ARUNACHAL HIMALAYAS FROM BOMDILA

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They say that whenyou travel, you musthave a destination…But the best part oftravel is not thedestination, but thejourney itself…Travel to Tawang,and you wouldrealise the trueessence behind thisstatement…

SONI SANGWAN

When the Tibetans werefleeing Lhasa in 1959,Tawang had taken on themythical role of ShangriLa for them. Shangri La

— the mythical paradise on earth, nestledamong the snow capped mountains, withits Fountain of Youth, promised a safesanctuary from the marauding Chinese.When the present Dalai Lama managedto make good his escape and reachTawang, it must certainly have seemedlike he has reached Shangri La. Today,after you complete the arduous 555kmlong journey to Tawang from Guwahati,you, too, will feel that you have foundyour Shangri La.

Like said earlier, the best part of travelis not the destination, but the journeyitself. This cannot be truer when youdecide to visit Tawang. The journey itselfcan be quite nerve racking if you waitonly to get to Tawang. But if you stop tosmell the flowers on the wayside, thejourney to Tawang can become equally, ifnot more enjoyable.

And believe me, there is enough toenjoy on the way.

But first of all, how do you get toTawang? The best plan would be to fly to

Guwahati or Tezpur in Assam, and thenonwards by road. Plan to halt at Bomdilaor Dirang for the night. It takes about 12to 16 hours to Tawang from Tezpur orGuwahati if you want to do it all in oneday. But as I said, there is a more fun wayof doing it.

Once you have packed your bags, don'tleave without making arrangements foryour Inner Line Permit (ILP). This officialdocument is your passport to one ofnature's most beautiful places. You canobtain the ILP from the ResidentCommissioner of Arunachal Pradesh inNew Delhi or from the correspondingoffices in Kolkata, Guwahati and Tezpur.Foreigners need a Restricted Area Permitfor which the procedure is the same. Youwill need to carry two passport sizephotographs and residence proof. Theprocedure is very simple and routine, butessential.

It is best to take an early flight toGuwahati and then leave immediately forTezpur and onwards to Bomdila. Yourgateway to Arunachal Pradesh isBhalukpong, about 60km from Tezpur.The road from here will start to curve andgain in height, beckoning you towards oneof the most beautiful places on planetearth. As the road curves, you willsuddenly find the plains of Assam

WOMEN DRYING WHEAT BEFORE JASWANT GARH


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changing to what seems like a tropical rainforest — dense vegetation where even thesun's rays cannot penetrate, the eeriesound of jungle crickets, and as you roundthe bend in the road — the sudden roar ofthe gushing river will set your pulseracing. Bhalukpong is a rafting node andyou should plan to stop here on the wayback from Tawang.

If you are ready to stretch your legs,visit the Orchid Research Centre at Tippi.There are over 600 varieties of orchidshere — several indigenous to the state. Infact, you are not allowed to take certainvarieties out of Arunachal Pradesh. Thefacility is spread over a vast area withseveral orchid nurseries. There is also amuseum where you can see manypreserved varieties of orchids. You maynot see too many flowering orchidsbecause that happens only during theseason, so the museum is a must visit.

Also, this is an important pit stopbecause you may not find anyconveniences for a long time.

As you gain in height, the terrain willchange. And so will the temperature. It isa good idea to carry a light jacket withyou. The beginning of the journey mayhave been in the warm plains of Assam,

but as you rise, there will be quickchanges in temperature, especially if itstarts to rain.

As the demands of a growling stomachtake over, it is time to take your pick.There are two options — roadside foodstalls run by locals or army run 'munchpoints'. At Sessa, you will find your first‘army munch point’. There is a nicelookout point here accompanying somereally crisp dosas. We decided to samplethe local stall and did not regret it. Thepretty woman at the food stall was readyonly with tea but she had made chickencurry for the family. A small bowl of thisfamily chicken curry with boiled ricereally hit the spot for us.

After another long drive — don’t look atyour watch too often or try to time thetrip; the distances are deceptive aseverything depends on the road condition— you will reach your first major halt —Bomdila. You are now at a height of 8,500ft, in the middle of an alpine forest. Thewind is clean and crisp and there is lots todo, but first, find yourself a place to stay.

There are many staying options in themain town itself. We found the office ofHimalayan Holidays bang in the middle ofthe main market and the proprietor

Tsering Wange was a mine of information.While he manages the business, his lovelywife, Anshu Jamsenpa, takes trekkers forhikes and has recently concluded amountaineering training course inRishikesh. The couple offered us a lot offriendly advice as also logistical support.But what I will always remember them forwas the hot, steaming bowl of thukpa thatwe enjoyed with them. Thukpa is a noodlesoup with lots of vegetables, chicken andegg. The soup is very flavoursome but notspicy. To add fire, you get a really hot, redsauce that you add according to thestrength of your palate.

Bomdila is a great place for trekking.The town sits on top of the Kameng Valleyand is surrounded by some beautiful appleorchards. Several circuits are availabledepending on your level of fitness andyour area of interest. For the trulyadventurous, there is also a circuit whichtakes you right up to Sela Pass andinvolves overnight camping. There is alsoa small but very beautiful gompa here andmost of locals begin their day or anyauspicious task by first seeking blessingsat this point.

In 1962, the Chinese had overrunBomdila. But by the time they had

Bomdila is a great place for trekking. The town sits on top of the Kameng Valley and issurrounded by some beautiful apple orchards. Several circuits are available depending onyour level of fitness and your area of interest.

SIGNATURE ROAD WITH CONSTRUCTION, UNEVEN BUMPS AND STOPS AT BHALUKPONG


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reached here, most of the locals had fled,leaving behind a ghost town. However, ifyou speak to locals like Pem Dorjee, whohad been a boy in 1962, this time round,there is a firm resolve to stand up to anyinvasion.

Up ahead, Dirang is about an hour’sdrive from Bomdila and the locals herecan guide you to some great fishing spots.There is also an orchid conservatory here.If you like, you can plan to stay the nightat Dirang instead of Bomdila. Several newhotels are coming up here.

As you continue your journey towardsTawang, you will need to go up to a heightof 13,700 feet. This is Sela Pass, theworld’s second highest motorable pass.Frozen most of the year, Sela Top, is alsohome to a beautiful lake. The reallyoutdoorsy ones have been known to playice hockey here. We were there inOctober but the lake was not frozen andwe did see two small tents and knew thatsome adventure junkies had spent thenight out here in freezing temperatures.

We stopped here for a bite and foundourselves in the kitchen of a small woodenhouse. On the menu was Maggi. But thealtitude meant that we could not get it intwo minutes. It took longer to cook. Andas we thawed ourselves in front of abukhari here, we learnt the story of Sela.She was a beautiful local girl who hadfought side by side with Jaswant Singh ofthe Indian Army in 1962. Both had battledfor over 72 hours and had managed tohold the Chinese off for that long. Butsoon, Sela realised that the Chinese wouldget her, she preferred to jump off the topof the mountain rather than be caught bythem. Stories of valour are incomplete

without romantic legend and though thereis no historical proof to this one, localsproudly point you to the spot from whereSela jumped.

Further along the descent begins. Wecrossed some beautiful water falls likeRupa, after which, came the compulsoryhalt. You cannot go beyond Jaswant Garhwithout taking permission from the braveGarhwal Rifles soldier who were awardedthe Mahavir Chakra posthumously in1962. This beautifully maintainedmemorial is more of a temple today. Whatcaught my eye and touched my heart wasa bunch of letters, postcards andinvitations for Jaswant Singh that were ondisplay. Perhaps these were from oldcomrades or their children. One invitationwas for the wedding of a young girl,perhaps the daughter of a comrade whowent home because Jaswant ensured thatthe Chinese could not reach him.

Your first view of Tawang will be fromacross the mountains — a small town,crowning a spur, with the distinctivemonastery clearly visible. After you crossanother quaint little town, Jhang, youenter Tawang. We stayed at a brand newhotel here, the Gaki Khang Zang. In fact,the hotel had not officially opened itsdoors and we were quite literally the veryfirst occupants. The hotel is a little awayfrom the main bazaar but you cannot missit because of its bright colours — it ispainted a bright green and blue.

Before venturing out we decided totake the day to get acclimatised. Havingseen some really plump ducks on the way,we decided to check if the delicious birdwas on the menu. Our demand was metwith some consternation and while we

wondered whether we had offended anysensibilities, the communication gapbecame clear. The cook came out of thekitchen to tell us, "Saab, yahan kutta tonahin milega.” “Kutta?” we repeated,dazed. Who had asked for dog? It turnedout, “duck” in our plains’ accent had gottranslated into “dog” by the time the orderreached the kitchen, giving ‘lost intranslation’ an entirely different meaning.To cut the long story short, that eveningwe had the best duck I have ever tasted.

A word of caution at this stage — onlyBSNL post paid connections work inTawang, or rather in most of Arunachal forthat matter. And the net is so slow that Iwas not even able to open the sign-inpage. So, enjoy your holiday without anytechno disturbances here.

The rest is actually necessary becausenow you are at a height of about 9,000feet. Take everything slow and do not overexert yourself. A good plan is to apply tothe local administration for permission togo to the Sino-Indian border post at BumLa as soon as you arrive and spend thetime waiting in visiting the town.

Two must dos here are the famousmonastery and the War Memorial. Everyevening, there is an inspiring light andsound show at the War Memorial. Rarefootage of the 1962 War is played out tothe sound of real guns. You realise how ill-prepared India had been when you seenIndian Army soldiers walking in rubbersoled PT shoes to take on the Chinese.Special focus is given to Joginder Singhfrom the Punjab Regiment. When theChinese invasion began in 1962, he haddefended his post in Bum La till his death,while covering the retreat of his comrades.

Dirang is about an hour’s drive from Bomdila and the locals here can guide you to somegreat fishing spots. There is also an orchid conservatory here. If you like, you can plan tostay the night at Dirang instead of Bomdila.

MOUNTAIN AND LAKES LEADING TO JASWANT GARH HIGH AND WINDING SELA PASS AT 14,000 FEET


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On display is his uniform, his torn bootsand the remains of the gun he hadfought with. There is a small souvenirshop here, run by the army, where youcan get a certificate to prove that youhad visited this memorial giving thealtitude of Tawang.

The stories of war-time valour gohand in hand with the legends about theBuddhist apostles of peace who hadcome to Tawang some 400 years ago. In1681, the fifth Dalai Lama had sent fortha trusted monk to set up a newmonastery where the next Dalai Lamacould be born. Coming south fromLhasa, the group kept searching, till oneday the leader’s horse guided them tothe spot where the monastery standstoday. Tawang literally means horsechosen. And so was built the TawangMonastery, which centuries laterprovided a safe haven for the currentDalai Lama when he fled Lhasa in 1959,explaining the special place that thismonastery has in his life and perhapsalso explaining why the Chinese attachso much importance to it.

The monastery itself is a work of art— housing over 700 monks of all ages.The pride of place is accorded to a 30feet high gilded wood statue of Buddha.Priceless tankhas crowd the wallstelling the story of Buddha. InNovember last year, the present DalaiLama had come and stayed here, muchto the annoyance of the Chinese and thejoy of the locals.

The next day, you should go to BumLa. The drive up is breathtaking. Youwill see the terrain changing suddenly— from alpine to snow bound. We were

lucky to see some vegetation — in fact,the entire landscape seemed aflamewith a beautiful pinkish red grass. Yakspeer at you balefully as you drive past.There are some disused bunkers —reminders of 1962. And then the templeto Joginder Baba, as he is fondly called.A small detour will take you to some ofthe most beautiful lakes you will eversee. And then, the final frontier — theSino-Indian border.

Here you will see a pile of stones —not any stones, these are friendshipstones. The belief is that as this heap ofstones becomes bigger, the friendshipbetween India and China will becomestronger. Every visitor is encouraged todo his bit by adding a stone to the heap.Here you will see evidence of how animaginary line across a map can playhavoc with human lives. The MacMohanLine drawn across a map in 1914 is thereason why the Chinese still lay claim toArunachal Pradesh. Here, the armysoldiers will show you the features acrosswhich this line passes. What will takeyour breath away is the Chinese road.You have just driven across hundreds ofkilometres of gravel, loose stones andsome under construction tarred road toreach a spot from where you can see aChinese plateau, connected by a purplecemented road. Gives you something tothink about.

As you head back, the thoughts thatremain with you are those of pride — atbeing part of a nation where valour is atradition, hope — that things areimproving, and fear — that history mayrepeat itself.

(PHOTOS BY ARIJIT SEN)

GETTING THERETo get to Tawang, one has to reach Guwahati first.Regarded as the gateway to Tawang, Guwahati iseasily accessible by air and rail. � Flights from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and

Bengaluru are being served by GoAir(excluding Bengaluru), SpiceJet, Kingfisher,Indigo and Jetlite; while Air India connectsonly Kolkata to Guwahati. One can also reachTezpur (160km away) by flight via Kolkata.

� When not in a hurry, the ideal way to reachGuwahati is through Rajdhani Express, whichshuttles between Delhi and Guwahati. Inaddition, the Paltan Bazaar Railway Station inGuwahati is a major railway junction on theNorth-East Frontier Railway from wherevarious express trains ply between Guwahatiand cities like Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai,Bengaluru, Bhubaneshwar, Mumbai andKochi. For more details, please seewww.indianrail.gov.in.

� From Guwahati, one has to proceed toTawang by road. Taxis are available on perday basis inclusive of cost of fuel and driver'sper diem, not per km.

� Helicopter service to Tawang (from Guwahatiand Tezpur both) is available, courtesy stategovernment, depending upon the weatherconditions.

� Tour operators are also available whoorganise tour from Guwahati to Tawang.

WHERE TO STAYHotels are expensive, but some amount ofbargaining and discounts will get you a good rate.Prices vary according to the season, but you mayget good deal in off-season as a walk-in. HOTEL SHANGRILANear Taxi StandPh. 03794- 222275

HOTEL MCLEOD GANJPh. 03794- 222310Besides that there is a modest GovernmentTourist Lodge and a Circuit House where you canstay, provided you have permits. For more details,log on tohttp://arunachalipr.gov.in/Accommodation.htm

PERMITS� Tourists visiting Tawang require an Inner

Line Permit (ILP), which takes approximatelythree weeks to be issued.

� One can obtain ILP from the ResidentCommissioner of Arunachal Pradesh in NewDelhi or from the corresponding offices inKolkata, Guwahati and Tezpur.

� Foreigners need a Restricted Area Permit forwhich the procedure is the same. You willneed to carry two passport size photographsand residence proof.

� Validity of ILP for Indian tourist is seven days,while for foreign tourist, validity is for amaximum stay of 30 days.

ZIGZAGGING ITS WAY, THE RIVER OFTEN FOLLOWS THE TRAVELLER


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EYE TALK56

What prompted you to take upphotography as a serious hobby?My first encounter with photo mediabegan with a simple box camera of 70’sand my interest grew with landscapes,shapes and forms in nature. Togetherwith my love affair with brush andpigments on canvas, I pursued myartistic ventures blending photographand canvas. With the advent of digitalformat, I graduated to blending pigmentswith pixels, thanks to PC basedelectronic graphics.

Your favourite photographers?For location photography Kerrick James;for wildlife M N Jayakumar; for Indiancultures Urs Schwitze; and forphotojournalism Steve McCurry. I ammore into visual art and creativephotography; hence I appreciate RyszardHorowitz a lot.

Any favourite travel destination fortaking pictures?I have travelled extensively over the yearsto several countries like USA, UK,Europe, Malaysia, Singapore, UAE, SaudiArabia, Nepal, Sri Lanka, etc. Every placeis different with interesting cultures. Ican never be tired of Ladakh. India, assuch, is a photographer’s paradise!

Your camera and preferred lenses?I prefer Nikon — D700 and D3x withprime lens 85mm, 1.4 for portraits, 80-200 f 2.8 for travel, 105 mm 2.8 vr formacro, 300mm f4 for wildlife.

An orthodontist by profession, Dr AkhterHusain dons many caps — painter,photographer, music buff, computer freakand a romanticist all rolled into one. Hehas won a number of international awardsand distinctions, including the honour ofbeing chosen as the Associate of TheRoyal Society of Photography, UK.

TAJ AT DAWN: AN EARLY WINTER MORNING SHOT OF THE TAJ MAHAL. I WASPARTICULAR ABOUT THE DIAGONAL COMPOSITION, WARM ON COLD COLOURSITUATION. THE PEOPLE WARMING UP BEFORE THE SUNRISE ADD A LOT OF IN-TEREST TO THE IMAGE.

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SUMMER RHYTHMS: DURING THE SUMMER FESTIVAL AT LADAKH, AN AMAZING ARRAY OF SHOWS WITH DAZZLINGCOSTUMES AND DANCES TAKES PLACE. SUCH IS THE VIBRANCY THAT EVEN THE CROWD GETS CHARGED AND JOINS INTO PARTICIPATE... IT'S A VERY SPECIAL MOMENT.


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PUSHKAR: A GROUP OF LADIES IN THEIR TRADITIONAL COSTUMES ARE GOING TO WORK… SET AGAINST THE AMAZINGBACKDROP OF THIS HUGE TREE, THE SCENE ALMOST LOOKS PAINTING LIKE.


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(LEFT) EXODUS: INBHUBANESHWAR, THERE WASTHE MAD RUSH TO GO FOR AMELA WHERE DOZENS OFPEOPLE WERE ALLOWED TOOCCUPY ANY PART OF THEVEHICLE THAT THEY COULDGET THEIR HANDS ON. THEVISIBILITY WAS POOR FORTHE DRIVER, BUT THAT DIDNOT DETER THE DRIVINGSPEED OF THE CAR.

(BELOW) MOTHER ANDCHILD: THIS PARTICULARSHOT WAS TAKEN FROM AMOVING VEHICLE. THEMOTHER WAS UNAWARE BUTTHE CHILD WAS CURIOUSAND TURNED BACK.


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READY RECKONER60

Sail away...Cruises, which were at one time considered the prerogative of the rich,the only option for the aged and the natural choice for honeymooners,is today fast reaching the wider leisure market. Representing one of thefastest growing sectors worldwide, cruising has now caught the fancyof any regular traveller who is planning a vacation. Today, with themost competitive prices the cruise industry has ever known, thesesensational vacations of a lifetime are now within our grasp. So what areyou waiting for? It's time to hit the waters!

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*All rates are based on per person (twin-sharing) basis.After booking is confirmed, cancellation charge will beimposed for the change of departure date or cancellationof cruise booking. Any other alteration is subject toHK$100 per person administration fee. Above cruiseitineraries and rates will be subject to change withoutprior notice.For more details contact www.starcruises.com

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* The mentioned fare in US$ is per person based ondouble occupancy. Prices do not include GovernmentFees and Taxes. Pricing and availability is subject tochange without notice. Stateroom availability variesby ship and category. The company reserves the rightto re-instate the fuel supplement for all guests at up toUS$9 per person per day if the NYMEX oil priceexceeds US$70 per barrel.For real time pricing and availability, please call at0124-4114196 Ext -316 or email us at [email protected].

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*The mentioned fare in US$ is per person based on dou-ble occupancy for an Inside Category Cabin on selectsail dates, subject to availability at the time of reserva-tions and is capacity controlled. Port Charges, GovtFees and Taxes are extra. The fare includes ship boardaccommodation, meals, 24 hours room service, enter-tainment and ocean transportation. Fare does notinclude any expense of personal nature. For more details, contact:http://www.princess.com/book/index.jsp

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READY RECKONER62

After cricket, it's time for some

f tballThe IPL Mania might have gripped the nation in its clutches, but soonenough; the focus of sports aficionado will shift to the FIFA World Cup.South Africa's natural beauty, the lively energy of its people and the cos-mopolitan nature of its various hosting cities, combined with theworld's greatest sporting event... will make it the perfect destination tobe, come June 2010. So go grab your deal and make the most of FIFA!

� From India, one can take flight frommajor metropolitan cities such as Delhi,Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru,Hyderabad, Kolkata to Johannesburg(which is the major airport hub in SouthAfrica and through which one can easily

take onward flights to other host cities).� South African, Qatar, Ethopian,

Emirates, Air India and Jet Airwaysoperate direct and indirect flights fromDelhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru,Hyderabad, Goa and Kolkata.

� Jet Airways, South African and Air Indiago direct from Mumbai to Johannesburg.

� Emirates, Qatar Airways andEthopian also connect various citiesin India to Johannesburg, with onestop at their hub.

GETTING TO SOUTH AFRICA

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63HOSTING CITIES (SOUTH AFRICA)

Cape Town Durban Johannesburg Mangaung/Bloemfontein Nelson Mandela Bay/Port Elizabeth

Tshwane/PretoriaRustenburgPolokwaneNelspruit

Offers by airlines/agents for the world cup

SOTC Sports & Emirates are offering var-ious combinations of the FIFA packages

� Team specific packages � Match specific packages in various

combinations of quarter and semi finals

� Packages for the final match

PACKAGE INCLUDES:� Flights from any Emirates hub in India

to South Africa (Options available forEconomy/Business and First Class)

� Transfer between airport and hoteland vice versa

� Hotel accommodation in 3/4/5/ starhotel ranging from 5 to 9 nights,depending upon one’s pocket.

� Transfer from hotel to the matchvenue (either via ground or air)

� Local assistance by Emirates’representatives

� You need to choose any ‘one’ of thethree base camps — Cape Town,Durban and Johannesburg.

* Prices for the packages vary from US$4,320 (single person, three-star hotel,standard room, Economy Class) to US$13,892 (single person, five-star hotel,standard room, First Class). Options aremany!

CONTACTSOTC Sportshttp://www.sotc.in/cms/promotion/FIFA/fifa-Landing-Page.htmTel: 09920089666 / 09920089555 or toll free — 1800 209 4777

Emirates & SOTCThomas Cook is offering five packagesfor FIFA World Cup

� Package 1 — from June 11-15,opening ceremony and openingmatch

� Package 2 — from June 16-20, onematch on June 16

� Package 3 — from June 21-27, twomatches on June 21 and June 22

� Package 4 — from June 16-24, threematches on June 16, June 20 andJune 22

� Package 5 — from July 5-13, threematches: two semi-finals and final

PACKAGE INCLUDES:� Flights from Mumbai to

Johannesburg (Economy Class on Jet/ South African Airways or similar).Services from Mumbai to Durban willalso be on offer but only in package 2.

� Accommodation on twin sharingbasis ranging from 4 to 8 nights.

� Return airport transfers and stadiumtransfers in a shuttle coach.

� Visa charges� Overseas health insurance* Prices for the packages vary fromUS$4,040 to US$9,682 per person ontwin share.

CONTACTThomas cookwww.thomascook.co.inTel: 022-67686970 or toll free — 1800-2099-100

Thomas Cook Cutting Edge

(US$ 1 is equal to INR 44.28)

Thinkof something interesting

and simply write a 200-word noteon 'Why I should visit South Africa this

summer', answer two simple questions, andyou could win couple Economy return tickets

by Jet Airways on its Mumbai - Johannesburgroute. In addition, South African Tourism and SunCity will organise three nights and four dayscomplimentary accommodation at The Palace of

the Lost City in Sun City. Participants can submit their note onwww.facebook.com/jetairways. The

contest will run till May 5.

WHY SA?

Being appointed as participating touroperator for the 2010 FIFA World Cup,Cutting edge is offering authorised trav-el packages. One can avail packages foropening ceremony, matches to be heldunder category 1 and 2 on differentdays, semi finals and final.PACKAGE INCLUDES:� Flights from Mumbai to

Johannesburg (Economy Class onJet / South African Airways orsimilar). Services fromJohannesburg to Cape Town andDurban are also on offer.

� Accommodation on twin sharingbasis ranging from 3 to 5 nights.

� Return airport transfers andstadium transfers in a shuttle coach.

� Visa charges� Overseas health insurance* Prices for the packages vary fromUS$3, 023 to US$9,706 per person ontwin share.CONTACTCutting Edgewww.cuttingedgeevents.infoMob: 09820027663

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Meet the

Cool dudeLassi, the popular dairy beverage, gets its unusualname from the Urdu language. The traditional wayto make Lassi aka chaach or Matha is by churninglarge amounts of makhan (butter). But the drinktoday has come a long way from a simple frothyglass of churned curd… we tell you how.

MINT LASSI

MANGO LASSI

THE TRADITIONAL SWEET LASSIWITH RICH TOPPING

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� With time, the word lassi came to becommonly used in Punjab for thediluted residue of curd after churningout butter fat from it. Lassi with littlebutter is called makhaniya lassi.

� According to Ayurveda, salt is never addedinto curd or lassi. Some herbs like freshcoriander / mint and spices like blackpepper, cumin are used. Adding of salt is aMughal influence.

� The Ayurveda guideline also prohibitsadding cream or milk in curd or lassi/chaach / matha. Lassi with littleturmeric powder mixed in it is alsoused as folk remedy for gastroenteritis.

GUNJAN GOELA

Like all food items, or evenbeverages, to make any dish toperfection, it is essential to firstcheck the quality of the rawmaterials used in it. So first

things first — if you want to make aperfect lassi, make sure your curd is justright.

To make fresh curd, heat the milk till itstarts foaming. Remove from heat andallow it to cool down to body temperatureor around 100 degree F. For a litre of milk,stir in two table spoons of curd, pour intoa glass or earthen pot and cover theutensil. Place the same in a warm placeand make sure it remains untouched. Dothis exercise in the evening and thefollowing morning, the fresh curd is ready.Remember, lassi makes the curd oryoghurt (dahi) more light and digestibleand helps in intestinal comfort. So toenjoy a perfect lassi, it must be made withfresh curd.

Lassi, the popular dairy beverage, getsits unusual name from the Urdu language.The traditional way to make lassi akachaach or matha is by churning largeamounts of makhan (butter). The lumps ofbutter form on top of frothy watery bed.The best way to utilise this leftovernutritious water was to make a beverageout of it. Well, Punjab, which boasts ofhigh milk productions, did just that.

Today, the lassi recipe has undergoneseveral changes with yogurt being its mainingredient. Just whisk yogurt, chilledwater, sugar or salt together in a blenderand you will get super-quick hot-weatherrefreshment that's calcium rich andrejuvenates you instantly. A coolant, withno-added preservatives, lassi is an idealcold beverage for parched throats. Since,

churning butter is nolonger the practice of commonhouseholds; this quick fix recipe workswell.

The originating trails of this popularand traditional drink can be found innorthern parts of India and Pakistan.While some like it sweet and creamyothers prefer the salty version flavouredwith ground roasted cumin. Throw inchunks of mango, strawberry and chikooin the blender and you can make a healthysmoothie out of this modest lassi.

Dahi or yogurt is the base for lassi. Ofcourse, every generation has customised itto its own convenience and now it can besavoured with many variations. The sweetlassi is a common beverage that findsplace in the menu cards of roadsidedhabas and swish hotels, across thecountry. A hint of rosewater or saffronlends it a beautiful colour and flavour.

And finally, time to choose yourdressing. While some like it simple andsweet, there are others who like it toppedwith dollops of butter and crushed nuts.This sleep-inducing makhaniyaa (butter)lassi has maximum patrons in Punjab andis usually served in huge steel glasses.

Another way to make lassi is to addsalt and mild spices instead of sugar. It isvery common in villages of Porbandar,Gujarat. Interestingly, the salty lassi foundin Pakistan is garnished with mint leaves.Some leaves are also blended with dahithat gives it a moss green shade. Thequantity of dahi is more compared towater and the consistency is thick andfrothy. It is a great drink for diabetics aswell.

Chaach is lassi’s closest sibling with afew noteworthy changes. This drink ismore watery and light on stomach and isseasoned with fresh coriander, ground

ginger and green chillies. The butter fat isnon-existent and it is believed to help indigestion. This beverage is usually servedin kulhads (earthen clay glasses) and is acommon sight in north eastern PakistaniPunjab regions and in Gujarat andRajasthan.

For all those who thought that onlysmoking pot could elevate you to ecstaticheights, try the bhang lassi. It is a speciallassi that contains bhang, a liquidderivative of cannabis (marijuana). It islegal in many parts of India and is much indemand during the festival of Holi, whengetting a bit tipsy is considered normal.Rajasthan is known to have licensed bhangshops, and in many places one can buybhang products and drink bhang lassi.Mahashivratri is another festival whendevotees guzzle this divine bhang lassi.

Fruit-based lassi is a recent inventionthat has found admirers in adults andchildren alike. When mango pulp isblended with dahi, the result is a divineconcoction that fulfils quick breakfastneeds. Some mothers add ice-cream,pistachios, raisins and cashew nuts tomake it a wholesome shake. In fact,Haldiram in Old Delhi serves mango lassiin a whole mango whose seeds and pulp isextracted. Sipping mango lassi out of areal mango is a very unique experience.Seasonal fruits like kiwi, strawberry,chikoo are other popular fruits that give alovely texture and flavour to this drink.

65

ENJOY A GOOD LASSI AT� Delhi — Kamla Nagar Market; Billi

Di Hatti, Chandni Chowk; KunchaGhasi Ram, Shyama Sweets atBarshabulla, Kinari Bazaar and GaliParanthe Wali, dariba, Bazaar SitaRam, Hauz Khazi Chowk

� Kaleva and Bikanervala across allmetro cities too have good lassi butwith a new version of their own

� Jaipur — MI Road

� Mathura — Gopal Mishthan

� Vrindavan — outside Banke Biharitemple

� Amirtsar — Ahuja Lassi andSurjeet Dhaba

� Meerut — Sadar Bazaar

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TWIN CITY66

She is known for hercritically acclaimed

performances infilms like Fire, Earth,Bawander, Before the

Rains and more, butNandita Das, despite

her stern “nononsense” look,

followed her heart,all the way to

Mumbai...

SANTANU GANGULY

She has acted in over 30feature films, in 10different languages, withdirectors of internationalrepute and achieved

another milestone in her life withher directorial debut — Firaaq thatclaimed many national as well asinternational accolades. Seeing herwork, one is left in no doubt of thefact that she is very passionate about

it, and wonders what led to it.Nandita's passion and

commitment comes from herbackground in Human Rights.She did her Masters in SocialWork from the University ofDelhi and worked with variousNGOs. Even today, shecontinues to advocate issues ofsocial justice. She has been amember of the main jury at theCannes Film Festival in 2005,Karlovy Vary InternationalFilm Festival in 2007 andMarrakech International FilmFestival 2009. In 2008, theFrench Government conferredher with the prestigiousChevalier des Arts et desLettres.

She has always been theDelhi girl, until recently,when she shifted her base toMumbai. But even after being

a part of the film industry for a longtime, one wonders what kept herrooted to Delhi for so long? "Fromthe time I did Fire in 1996, I wouldoften be questioned as to why I havenot shifted to Mumbai. Most saw itas a foolish decision and myexplanation that it was by choice andnot a temptation I was resisting, didnot seem convincing,” she says.

Her commitments grew. Shebecame the Chairperson of theChildren’s Film Society and evendirector Deepa Mehta, after seeingher work in film Earth with AamirKhan, asked her to shiftpermanently to Mumbai, but thetalented actress did not budge.

“In short, Mumbai was never anoption for me. Also, being a bit of arebel, the assumption thateverybody who had anything to dowith films ought to be in Mumbaiseemed worth protesting. Time andagain, I would be goaded to shift toMumbai and my resolve to nevermove became even stronger. But theproverbial ‘never say never’ cametrue! A few months ago, I fell in lovewith someone who lives in Mumbai.He could have well lived inTimbaktu and I would have movedthere if that was the only way wecould be together. So all myarguments and reasoning werethrown out of the window and here Iam in the city of skyscrapers and

Home is

NANDITA DAS WITH FATHER JATIN DAS IN DELHI

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slums, co-existing shamelessly,” she adds,smiling, and love, we can see, shining inthose eyes.

So now that she is living anotherphase of her life with husband SubodhMaskara in another city, how does it feel?How different is her life in Mumbai vis-à-vis her life in Delhi?

“Ever since I have shifted to MumbaiI find myself dragged into a fairlymeaningless debate about Delhi vsMumbai. I stayed on in Delhi not so muchfor the love of the city, but because Ifound no reason to shift to a differentplace. In fact, Delhi provided me a neutralspace where I didn’t feel compelled tobelong to any fraternity. Mumbai was nomore the city I visited my maternalgrandparents as a child. In the last 10years, Mumbai, for me, primarily meantthe film industry. I didn’t quite feel Ibelonged there and preferred to be on thefringes of it. The baggage of that life was

enormous as one couldn’t be in the gameand not play by its rules,” she explains.

So has the city grown on her? Doesshe like it in Mumbai now? “I still resistliking it, even though the people are moreprofessional and less aggressive than thosein Delhi, but I still haven’t found my littlecomfort corner here. Talking aboutanything beyond one’s narrow sphere ofwork and life seems to be the norm. Thiscould well be because the struggle of dailylife and commuting saps one’s energy andleaves little room for any otherengagement. There! I see myself againbeing dragged into the unnecessarydebate of which city is better,” sheexclaims! So what would she like to becalled, a Delhiite or a Mumbaikar?

“I have always felt more like a citizenof the world and the sense of belonging

has been less and less important. If we areopen to change and can embrace differentways of being, then no place seems alien.In all my travels, I have often felt the urgeto make many different places my home.Love has brought me to Mumbai and sothis is my home,” Nandita describes.

However, there must be somethingthat she misses about Delhi… “Wide openroads, lined with old big trees that in theseason blossom with Gulmohar andAmaltas, old Mughal ruins littered aroundthe city, adding a rather old world charmto Lutyen’s British architecture and theconcrete jungle that is steadilyexpanding,” she reminisces with a sigh!Well, she might have said goodbye toDelhi, but we hope she keeps doing thegood work and make Delhiites proud andwell, Mumbaikars too!

where the heart is...

NANDITA DASWITHHUSBANDSUBODHMASKARA INMUMBAI

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EXOTIC EXCESS68

Luxury abounds atWestin Hyderabad

When you hearStarwood, youexpect nothing butthe best, andstanding true to itsbrand equity, TheWestin HyderabadMindspace is acocoon of luxury,geared to enthralthe corporateclientele to the city.

PRIYANKA SAXENA

Ihadn't ever stayed in any of theWestin properties earlier, and myfirst experience, of the city andproperty both, is something I willremember for a long time. My

lesson on ‘Westin’ began as soon as I sat inthe cab that was to take me to the hotel.Seldom do we come across hotelchauffeurs so well educated and informedabout the fine nuances of the hotel. "Wedon’t have to go through the city traffic.We have a direct link from airport thatwill take us straight to Westin" — was justthe tip of the information iceberg that Iwas to receive later on. The pride wasclear. Impressed, I was indeed.

As you enter Hyderabad’s high-techcity, you understand why Hyderabad isbeing regarded as the IT hub of India.Ranging from big multinational giants tobig Indian companies, all have theiroffices in here, and nestled in the midst ofit all is the newly opened WestinHyderabad Mindspace. So, it’s a businesshotel, I thought, only to be proved wronglater on.

Hand folded greeting is nowbecoming a customised form ofaddressing guests in various five starproperties in India, and the custom heretoo was no different. But what took me bysurprise, pleasantly, was the ease withwhich the reception desk handed me my

A VIEW OF THE INTERCONNECTING ROOMS AT THE WESTIN HYDERABAD

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room key just as I stepped in and a ladydressed in a wonderfully brightturquoise uniform escorted me to the liftarea. That felt special. My upliftedspirits however sank a bit as I juggledwith the lift buttons. My room, I wastold, was on the first floor, and the liftnumbers started with 11, 12 13… andnone of them budged when I pressedthem. Taking note on my bewilderedlook, a fellow guest informed me that Ineeded to swap my room key in order toget the lift working and that ‘11’ in thelift actually meant ‘1’. Well, so much fordynamics!

Vast expanse of the lobby area isperhaps the first thing that hits youabout the hotel. The space does not lookcluttered and yet has ample seating areafor guests or visitors. Done up in subtleshades of brown and crème, the interiorshave an ‘easy breathe in’ feel to it. Acurvy wooden staircase accompanied bysome gurgling water on its side leadsyou into the basement area of the hotel,which houses its Italian specialityrestaurant ‘Prego’ and the ‘heavenly spaby Westin’ which is not yet operationalnow (will hopefully be working by Junestarting). It also houses some 14,000square feet of meetings area, whichgiven Westin’s unique blend of personaland instinctive service, custom-designedmenus, and latest meetings technologyis sure to make any event a success anda memorable one.

When in the lobby, the urge to lookup and see the corridors of the 15 floorsabove forming a perfect square is adelight to watch. Not many hotels todayhave that kind of a high ceilingarchitecture, so this one, looks uniqueand quite interesting.

Westin Hyderabad Mindspace’s allday dining restaurant — ‘SeasonalTastes’ allows for casual diningpresenting a perfect confluence ofIndian and international flavours. Fromspicy chicken tikka to onion vada, thecuisine here truly reflects thecosmopolitan mix of crowd that throngs‘Seasonal Tastes’ to enjoy ameal. And pleasedon’t miss the

hazelnut flavoured ice ream served in itsice-cream corner — it’s truly to die for!

Siesta time led me to the plushinteriors of my room, where a“heavenly” bed awaited me. Plonkingthe pillows into a comfortable heap, Inestled to browse through the channelson the 37" flat screen TV and have noclue when sleep took over.

Evening time was best enjoyedtaking a stroll by the poolside and laterenjoying a Virgin Mary at ‘Mix’ — thelounge bar, which is the perfect place tounwind with friends after a long day’swork. The place has many takers as lotsof professionals working in the high-techcity, come here to enjoy an eveningdrink.

A hearty meal at the Indian specialityrestaurant — ‘Kangan’ and the matchingbangles that the bangle maker at therestaurant made for me, complimentary,was the perfect icing on my Westin visitcake. The day had come to an end and yetthere was so much left unexplored. TheWestinWorkout fitness centre, which Iwas told has the latest and bestequipment and facilities for workout, adrink by the poolside, a splash in thewater and a spa treatment in my room (tillthe spa does not get functional)… well,like they say, there’s always a next time.

(PHOTOS BY WESTIN HYDERABAD MINDSPACE)

QUICK FACTS� The hotel is 30 minutes from

international and domestic airport

� It is seven minutes from HyderabadInternational Convention Centre

� It has 428 guestrooms and suites

� Its restaurants include SeasonalTastes, Prego, Kangan, Mix, DailyTreat and Splash

� It has five banquet areas — WestinBallroom, Evolve, Energize, Thriveand Renew — with a total space of14,000 sq m

� Westin Terrace Garden canaccommodate 450 people

(A) SEATING AREA AT THE LOBBY; (B) THEEXECUTIVE SUITE; (C) THE POOL AREA;(D) STAIRCASE GOING FROM THE LOBBYTO THE BASEMENT

A

B

C

D

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LIQUIDICTION70

Ever worn a jacket-gloves combo while it'sblazing 42 degrees? Visit FREEZE, the newlyopened lounge bar in the capital, dance andenjoy a drink in -10 degrees temp, andsummer nights will never be same again!

THE WAITING LOUNGE FOR THE ICE BAR HAS A VIBRANCY TO IT THAT'S TOUGH TO ESCAPE

Coolest hang out

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PRIYANKA SAXENA

With the mushrooming ofmalls and multiplexesconcentrated in theRajouri Garden area ofWest Delhi, the

destination has become a favourite haunt ofmany a youngsters today. Tapping upon thisyouth vibrancy, FREEZE is the new andunique name to the list of lounge bars, notonly in Delhi but also in India. Opened atWestgate Mall, Rajouri Garden, the icelounge has lots of reasons for you to bringout the 'cool you' this summer.

Popularly a western concept, this icebar is the first of its kind in India and in justtwo months of its opening, already hasmany takers. The ice lounge is spread over

two levels, maintaining a temperature of+10 on the third floor, and -10 on secondfloor, which is popularly known as 'GrubZone’. To brave the cold, people are issuedheavy jackets, boots and gloves. This 40-seater segment has a well-stocked bar andthe staff here is changed every 30 minutes!The waiting area, again maintaining atemperature quite low, has a charged upfeel to it, thanks to the groovy pulsatingmusic that is sure to set your party on fire,oops, ice I mean!

Its dining floor, i.e. the third floor canaccommodate a standing gathering of 100people and around 45 for seating. It also hasa VIP lounge. What is most interestingabout FREEZE is its exhaustive array ofmenu on display. The lounge bar dishes outcold platters and grilled snacks, offering a

perfect hot and coldcombination! Specialty chefsare here to serve globalcuisines. You name a dishand they have it on menu!Pizza? You got it! Indian? Yougot it! Chinese? Mexican?Thai? You got it all here! Thislounge also plays host tomany family outings. Thedad enjoys the hookah, themother orders the specialityon menu and the kids, inaddition to tapping their feetto some rocky numbers, canwatch live matches, songsand movies on its big

projector screen. Both the floors haveseparate kitchens and bars.

DJ console and floor are here to rockthe people. The entire concept has taken itsinspiration from the London’s Ice Box,whose owner Philip Hughes was alsopresent at the launch of the ice lounge. Theinteriors have been designed by LavpritSingh. In addition to its extraordinaryconcept is the commendable taskperformed by the FREEZE team of puttingthe entire lounge together in mere 31 days.Mohit Jain, Saurabh Katyal andSiddheshewar — the men behind the icelounge have done a tremendous job.

So this summer, you don’t have to go tothe hills to beat the heat. Go to FREEZEand enjoy the mercury dip. The nonvegetarians must try the signature dish —bannu kebab while the vegetarians cansavour the melt-in-the-mouth corn seekhkebabs. Like said, one is spoilt for choicehere. So go ahead and savour some uniquedelicacies like frozen paan, chuski and kulfiin an equally ‘freezing’ environment.

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The lounge bardishes out coldplatters and grilledsnacks, offering aperfect hot andcold combination!

-10 DEGREES TEMP GIVES A GLACIAL EXPERIENCE

THE DINING AREA OFFERS AN UNFORGETTABLE CULINARY EXPERIENCE

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WANDERING GOURMANDSAPNA S

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It doesn’t form part of many menus is the various hotels / restaurantsacross India, but Bunt Food, a Mangalorean fare, is slowly makinginroads into many a connoisseurs’ kitchen, thanks to the celebritystatus attached to it!

Boisterously Bunt

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Have youever wished, asyou see Aishwarya Rai’sgreen eyes or Shilpa Shetty’slim waist, to know what is it

that they grew up eating... Ever wonderedthat was it food that somewhat contributedto their glowing skin and captivatingbeauty? Well, could be, after all, both ofthem come from Bunt community, whosecuisine, is now slowly gripping peopleoutside Karnataka.

A doctor by profession with a passionfor cooking, I didn’t take much time tolearn the basics of Mangalorean cuisinefrom my mother-in-law. Of India’s foursouthern states, Karnataka’s gastronomicmarvels are the least known. While TamilNadu is famous for its distinct Chettinadcuisine, Kerala for its rich Moplah fare andAndhra Pradesh for its royal Hyderabadirepast, the scrumptious dishes ofKarnataka have been languishing on thesidelines for several years now. Apart frommasala dosa and the customary lemon rice,not many people are even aware of thestate’s two distinctive cuisines, Bunt andCoorgi, indigenous to these warriorcommunities.

Mangaloreans have a penchant forusing coconut milk or simply gratedcoconut in almost all their food items. Bornand brought up in Kerala, Ifound a lot of influence of

southIndian

cuisine on Buntcuisine in general,

though the Thulu community(the Bunt and the Pujaris) have their ownunique menu which they follow,traditionally.

The easy and bulk availability of fishfrom both sea and river (Mangalore is aport city of Karnataka) gave the dish aprominent place in the Bunt cuisine andmade it a favourite on the Mangaloreanmenu. Fish preparations range from fishcurry to fish masala fry / rawa fry and aspecial baked mackerel preparation that Ilearned during one of the visits to aneighbouring village.

Mangalorean food that I have eaten inseveral restaurants that specialise in coastalfood is heavy. True, desi ghee figures ratherpredominently in its cuisine, but it leavesmore of a fragrance than an oily feel. Thetraditional Bunt food is light on thestomach and not at all oily. The food isspicy, no doubt. But the Bunts generallylike to use whole spices, which gives aromato a dish but doesn’t overwhelm it with theflavours. Mangaloreans prefer to use wholespices, as they feel that they enhance thearoma of the curry. Long and short dry redchillies are used in proportion of 3:1 to addcolour to the curry, especially the sea fish,while river fish is cooked in a coconutgravy with spices where long chillies withround ones in ratio of 1:3 is used. In any

dish being prepared, eachingredient is first fried in adrop of coconut oil and thengrinded along with coconut toturn it into a fine paste.

Pathrode made out ofcolaccasia leaves are indeed a

favourite again in the traditionalBunt menu. On the dessert front,

Mangalorean sweets are not at allheavy on stomach. Rasayana is an all

time item on a traditional menu and ismade out of fresh melon or plantain

mixed in coconut milk, along withbeaten rice and jaggery. Up next, kheera

made of semolina and halwas along withboondi laddu find their place in thetraditional menu.

Though my knowledge of the Buntfood is fairly good, thanks to my mother-in-

law, I learned a unique traditional cookingduring one of my visits to a neighbouringvillage, when I witnessed an interestingcock fight. The fight and betting wascommon knowledge but what surprised mewas the tradition of cooking a cock over fireafter the fight and having it with rice. Itried the same cooking method on countrychicken, and the result, was quiterewarding.

Bunt food is now made available invarious outlets and eateries in places in andaround Mumbai, but the taste is not thesame. Kori roti (rice flakes), kori gazi(chicken curry), kori sukka (chicken cookedin scraped coconut), pundit (ricedumplings), neeru dosa (rice thin pancakes)are few of the Bunt specialities that youmay find outside the Mangalore city.

Mahesh Lunch Home (Mangaloreanfood chain) has branches in Mumbai,Thane and Pune and is the perfect place toexplore the Mangalorean cuisine. InBengaluru, ‘Kudla’ restaurant serves goodsea food preparations, the kana (lady fish)rawa fry, or masala fry are the must trydishes on their menu. Additionally,Coconut Grove in Bengaluru as well as inChennai and Goa serves few Mangaloreanspecialities, especially sea food. While thefood is good, sadly, there is a lot ofdifference in the making of kori gazi(chicken curry) whether it’s inside oroutside the Mangalore city. Many of theabove mentioned places do serve a korigazi (typical traditional chicken curry)though it lacks the touch of traditionalway of cooking, or ingredients and theflavour.

A good Mangalorean restaurantoutside Mangalore city do serve goodBunt food, but I have never come across aplace where they maintain the aroma, andthe perfect mix of spices of a traditionalBunt food. Nothing can come close to thetasty fish masala fry or a ghee rost of prawnswhen you have it anywhere withinMangalore city.

(PHOTOS BY THE PARK, NEW DELHI)

The traditional Bunt food,though spicy (as the Bunts liketo use whole spices), is light onthe stomach and not at all oily.

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BOOKS74

The book is an extremely userfriendly guide for theadventurous lot both

professional and amateur. Not only isit very well written covering a gamutof off-beaten treks but also carriesdetailed information in the form ofclearly marked maps, additional vitalstats and tips on things that oneneeds to know while going on a trek.An exhaustive collection of alluringpictures coupled with 3D images will surely propel an adventurist topick up his rucksack and head to thehills. Can truly be called a bible fortrek lovers.

By Depi ChaudhryPublished By: CollinsPp: 216, Price: Rs 695

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Trekking Guide tothe Western Himalayas

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The book ‘JRD: As Air IndiansRemember’ is a remarkable attemptby Capt Kohli to bring out an

excellent collection of not only rarephotographs and confidential letters (fromMorarji Desai to Smt Indira Gandhi) butalso some funny anecdotes and inspiringtales, by former Air Indians, in fondremembrance of JRD Tata. Weaving hisown and his colleagues' rich experiences,Capt Kohli tells a compelling story thatgives an insight into the character that wasJRD Tata and his dream that was Air India.This book is a must read for all those whoare interested in knowing how legendsbuild legendary organisations.

The book gives a detailed andinteresting insight into the man that JRD

Tata was and his struggles andachievements in establishing Air India.JRD Tata will go down in history forachieving the rare distinction of flying AirIndia high. Father of India’s civil aviationand founder of Air India, JRD Tata had adream. And he made it come true throughhis all consuming passion, consummateskill and outstanding leadership. “I beseechyou that when I am no more, and those ofyou who will still be there, alwaysremember this, the airline must never,never be allowed to be anything else butthe best. In doing so, we will not onlyensure our own development, growth andprogress, but also prosperity of our ownpeople,” — that he was passionate aboutflying, is undisputable.

Conceived and Compiled byM S KohliPublished by: Himalyan BooksPp: 144; Rs 695

MAY 2010 TRAVELX

JRD: As Air Indians Remember

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”STEPHEN TANCHIEF EXECUTIVESingapore Exhibition Services

80M

AY 2

010

TRAV

ELX

ON THE MOVE

WHY CHANGI…?The airport is completely hassle-free. From lounges to nappingareas, shopping malls to hoteland pool amenities, the airportexcels itself with innovativeactivities like all-inclusive diningand entertainment options.

YOU PREFER FLYINGBUSINESS OR ECONOMY?Usually Business.

ONE AIRPORTEXPERIENCE THAT YOUWILL NEVER FORGET…?When first in Paris I did notknow that there were twoairports; and I took a cab to thewrong airport when trying toleave Paris. The two airports(Charles de Gaulle and Orly)

are miles apart and a good 35minutes apart by a cab-ride of 30Euros. This then ignorance ofmine made me miss my flighthome to Singapore and I had tostay for another night at one ofthe airport hotels.

YOUR RECENT TRIP

WAS…?My recent trip was from

Singapore to Delhi.

BUSINESS TOUR OR A

PLEASURE TRIP?

Business. We came to Delhi

to promote Food and Hotel

Asia 2010 (FHA 2010), a

food and hospitality trade

event. My visit to Delhi was

with an aim to get more

participants from the food

and hospitality industry in

India to be a part of this

show.

YOUR TRAVELLING

ESSENTIALSINCLUDE…?My laptop and mobile.

YOUR FAVOURITE

AIRPORT IS…?Changi Airport, Singapore.

PHO

TO B

Y H

C T

IWAR

I

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Documents

TravelX_May_2010